Wednesday, April 23, 2014
|
Labels:
a,
ford,
how,
jack,
on,
set,
stands,
taurus,
to,
up
|
|

Knowing how to safely lift any vehicle and support it onto jack stands is important, no matter what make or model the vehicle is. The Ford Taurus is no exception. If lifting one axle on the Taurus (front or rear), a single set of jack stands will be required. If lifting both axles, you will need two sets of stands. In addition, while the factory-supplied scissor jacks for emergency roadside repair will safely lift the Taurus, a better and safer option would be using a hydraulic floor jack.
Instructions
1 Place the two wheel chocks against the front and rear of a tire (doesnt matter which one) on the opposite axle from which the Taurus is being lifted first (if raising both axles).
2 Place the block of wood on the cradle of the floor jack and align it beneath the rocker panel seam of the Ford Taurus (front or rear). The wood block will help prevent bending or damaging the rocker panel seam Turn the handle of the jack clockwise as far as it will go to activate the hydraulic lift.
3 Pump the handle to raise the cradle and block of wood, making sure the alignment of the wood and cradle is centered to the rocker panel seam before contacting it.
4 Continue to pump the jack handle until the corner of the Taurus is elevated high enough to allow the jack stand to be placed under it. For front axle, place the jack stand(s) under the front frame rail (about 10 inches in from the rocker panel seam) of the Taurus. Theres one frame rail each for drivers and passengers sides, but the rail only runs about half the length of the Ford Taurus, so using the rail for rear axle support is not an option. For the rear axle support, place the jack stand(s) near the jack under the rocker panel seam.
5 Turn the handle of the jack counterclockwise slowly to release the hydraulic tension on the jack and allow the Taurus to slowly lower and contact the arm of the jack stand. Be sure the alignment of the arm of the stand is located directly beneath the front frame rail or rear rocker panel seam respectively.
6 Repeat the procedure for the opposite side of the same axle using the jack and the block of wood. If lifting all four corners, lift the opposite axle and support it onto jack stands (one side at a time) after one axle is secured onto jack stands.
Continue reading...
Tuesday, December 10, 2013
|
Labels:
engage,
my,
taurus,
transmission,
wont
|
|
The Ford Taurus automatic may have a stick shift lever on the steering column or it may have a gear shift in the floor. If the gears fail to engage, it could be a problem with the cable or something more serious in the transmission.
The most likely cause of a stick shift lever failing to engage the automatic transmission will be the gear lever shift cable. The cable can snap over time or become disengaged. In the case of this type of occurrence, the only recourse is to replace the shift cable.
In the case of floor shift models, the same thing can happen, but the cable is fixed in a different fashion. It will likely travel in a horizontal direction from the shift lever to the transmission. If the cable shows signs of resistance it may need a simple adjustment, but again, if snapping occurs, replacing it will be the only option.
If the gears will attempt to engage but fail, or you find that you can start your Taurus while it is in a gear other than park, you may need to take your car to an approved mechanic.
Continue reading...
Sunday, December 1, 2013
|
Labels:
2006,
exhaust,
specifications,
system,
taurus
|
|

The 2006 Ford Taurus exhaust system is held in place by a number of different fasteners, each of which must be torqued to the proper value when tightening. Gaskets help to seal the pieces together completely. Improper exhaust repairs can create a dangerous carbon monoxide leak, which might get into the vehicle passenger compartment.
There are two exhaust manifolds -- one for each bank of cylinders. They move away from the engine and merge into a "Y" connector, which then enters the upper catalytic converter as a single pipe. Exhaust travels into the second converter, through the muffler to the tailpipe, and out of the vehicle. Two oxygen sensors are located along the exhaust pathway.
Oxygen sensors inserted into the exhaust stream monitor emissions. The catalytic converter uses a platinum catalyst and very high temperatures to change toxic gases to less harmful compounds. The muffler contains a series of baffles that act to cancel out some of the engine noise. Exhaust system isolators are rubber extensions to the mounting brackets and serve to reduce transmission of noise and vibration to the vehicle interior.
Torque the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust system nuts to 30 foot-pounds and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts to 35 foot-pounds. The three-way converter-to-muffler clamp nuts should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds as should the catalyst monitor sensors. Proper torque for the dual converter Y-pipe heat shield nuts and bolt (12-valve engine) is 10 foot-pounds, while the dual converter Y-pipe bracket nut (24-valve engine) should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds. The engine mount nut torque spec is 66 foot-pounds, the transmission mount nut should also be torqued to 66 foot-pounds, while the engine roll restrictor bolts need 35 foot-pounds. The muffler rear insulator bracket should be torqued to 13 foot-pounds, the muffler front insulator bracket to 11 foot-pounds and the muffler extension pipe insulator bracket screws to 10 foot-pounds.
The entire exhaust system must be allowed to cool before work begins. Support the exhaust system with a suitable jack -- components are heavy. The sharp edges on the catalytic converter can cut the CV joint boot. Protect the half-shaft boot with a small rug or mat before removing the converter assembly. Do not damage the manifold outlet flare, the converter inlet flare, or the studs when replacing the catalytic converter. Do not use oil or grease-based lubricants on the exhaust isolators -- they may damage the rubber and cause the exhaust pipe to loosen during use.
Continue reading...
Saturday, September 21, 2013
|
Labels:
a,
eec,
ford,
how,
on,
remove,
taurus,
the,
to
|
|
The evaporative emission control system on the Ford Taurus traps and stores fuel vapors that would otherwise escape into the atmosphere, and recycles them into an air/fuel mixture used for combustion. The EEC is made up of numerous parts that you must remove individually if you need to remove the system. The vapor storage canister is the primary component, while the other parts are mounted on the fuel tank.
Instructions
1 Relieve the fuel systems pressure: open the trunk and pull back the lower trim panel at the driver side B pillar to find the inertia switch and unplug its electrical connector. Start the engine and wait for it to stall.
2 Raise the rear end of the Taurus and support it on jack stands.
3 Disconnect the vent tube for the vapor storage canister from the vent hose on the gas tank filler neck. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the canister vent solenoid.
4 Detach the dust box separator tube and EVAP canister tube by disconnecting their quick-connect fittings at the canister. Remove the four mounting bolts for the vapor storage canister, and remove the canister assembly. Remove the canister vent solenoid from the canister if needed.
5 Remove the fuel tank to access the remaining EEC parts--remove the bolts inside the fuel filler door securing the filler neck, disconnect all accessible fuel and vapor lines and electrical connectors, unbolt the support straps, lower the tank and disconnect all remaining lines.
6 Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor, vapor vent valve and vapor control valve from the top of the fuel tank.
Continue reading...