Repair 7

The 22R, 22RE and 22R-TE were without a doubt the most popular engines Toyota ever sold in America, reigning for two decades as the companys budget-priced workhorses. The rugged and dependable R-series all but created Toyotas image as we know it today, and continues as a favorite among off-roaders worldwide. The 97- to 112-horsepower carbureted 22R, 118-horsepower fuel-injected 22RE and 135-horsepower turbocharged 22R-TE werent powerhouses by anyones standards.

Instructions

1

Identify the engine block. The short block is the engines main sub-assembly, and is composed of the engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods and pistons.

2

Identify the cylinder head, which is bolted to the top of the engine block. Simply put, a "long block" is the short block plus the cylinder head. If the engine has a block, crankshaft, rods, pistons and a cylinder head, then its a long block. Most engine shops consider the valve assembly and cams as part of the long block, and will typically sell them that way unless otherwise specified. The camshaft/crankshaft sprockets and timing chain are typically sold as part of the long block assembly because the engine needs them to function.

3

Verify that it is, in fact, a 22R. Look on the engine block below the first brass freeze plug for the "22R" on the casting number plate. Other R-series blocks include the 18R, 16R, 10R, 9R, 8R, all the way down to 1R. Contrary to popular practice among Japanese automakers such as Mitsubishi, the engine designation indicated the engine generation rather than the displacement in liters. The 1R was first produced in 1953, the 2R in 1964 and so on.

A catalytic converter greatly reduces the amount of emissions that your vehicle produces. However, when this part has gone bad it can mean trouble for your vehicle as well as the environment. Certain clues will help you determine whether your catalytic converter is failing.

Driveability

Your ability to drive your vehicle normally will be affected if the catalytic converter is bad. The speed and the power of a vehicle will fall below their normal performance levels. If your vehicle starts to have trouble with stalling, this could be a sign of bad catalytic converter.

Emissions

A rise in vehicle hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide emissions is a sure sign that a catalytic converter has gone bad. An exhaust analyzer, which costs $3,000 to $5,000, can inform you whether the converter is bad by reading the emissions levels as they exit the exhaust pipe.

Exhaust

The color of the smoke coming from your exhaust is another way to determine whether a catalytic converter is bad. Blue smoke indicates that the converter might be contaminated with phosphorus, which is found in motor oil. White smoke usually indicates that coolant is leaking internally.

There are multiple ways to convert a Sportster with an engine displacement of 883 cubic centimeters into one with an engine displacement of 1200 cubic centimeters. As a result, there are several potential clues to interpret. One infallible test is the removal of the motorcycle heads, which takes a skilled mechanic at least four hours. The cylinders on an 883 are 3 inches in diameter. The cylinder interiors on a 1200 are a full half inch bigger. If you do not feel like rebuilding the whole top end of the motor, though, there are still a few options.

Instructions

1

Look at the heads. If the heads were manufactured by Edelbrock, S&S, Harley-Davidsons own Screamin Eagle performance line or any manufacturer other than Harley-Davidson they were installed as part of an aftermarket conversion package so the Sportster is a 1200 not an 883.

2

Examine the base of the cylinders. The most common conversion procedure replaces the cylinders but not the heads. If the cylinders are engraved "1200" at their bases the Sportster is a 1200.

3

Ride a known 883 Sportster hard. Ride the 883 on a freeway or interstate and uphill and note the acceleration and torque of that motorcycle.

4

Ride the motorcycle in question. A 1200 Sportster has at least 40 percent more horsepower than an 883. The difference is unmistakable and it is a fool-proof test.

In 2001, Toyota Camrys were manufactured with multiple engine options. In base form, the Camry came equipped with the 2.2-liter DOHC inline four-cylinder engine which offered buyers excellent fuel economy at a reasonable price. In upgraded form, the Camry came equipped with a more powerful 3.0-liter DOHC V6 that provided more power with slightly increased price tag. The camshafts in each engine are monitored by a camshaft position sensor that records the position of the camshafts in relation to the crankshaft. The positional information is used by the PCM to alter ignition timing and ensure that the engine runs smoothly. A faulty camshaft sensor can cause symptoms such as stalling, sputtering, and lack of power. Checking the resistance on camshaft sensor terminals and comparing that to a specified value is the proper way to determine the whether the camshaft sensor is operating properly.

Instructions

2.2-Liter Engine

1

Open the hood and locate the camshaft position sensor. It is bolted to the lower-right side of the valve cover assembly, on the front side of the engine block. Its a small black sensor with a two-wire connector attached to it.

2

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector by depressing the locking tab on the connector and pulling it away from the sensor.

3

Measure the resistance across the camshaft sensors pin terminals with a digital multimeter.

4

Compare the resistance value on the digital multimeter to the specified value. The specified resistance value for the 2.2-liter engine is 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensors resistance value is outside these parameters then the sensor must be replaced.

3.0-Liter Engine

5

Open the hood and locate both camshaft position sensors; in the V6 engine there are twoone in each cylinder head. The sensor itself is located on the back rear corner of each cylinder head. It is black, just like the sensor for the 2.2-liter engine and has the same two-wire connector attached to it.

6

Disconnect the electrical connectors on each sensor by depressing the locking tab and pulling the sensor connector off of the sensors connector flange.

7

Measure the resistance across each sensors two pin terminals and record that value on a piece of paper.

8

Compare the resistance value against the specified values for the sensors. If the sensor is made by DENSO, the resistance should fall between 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensor is made by Wabash, the resistance should fall between 1,690 to 2,560 Ohms when cold and 2,145 to 3,010 Ohms when hot. The sensor should have a stamping mark on the inside of the plastic connecting flange indicating which company manufactured it. If the sensor falls outside of these specified values then it is faulty.

Finding the date code on your Chevy engine is a matter of looking in the correct areas and being able to read the code itself. With little exception, Chevy engine codes are alphanumeric codes with three signs. The three signs represent the month, day and year of the engine and they always appear in this order. Month signs are most often letters A through L representing January (A) through December (L). Sometimes month signs are numerical only, with 1 representing January through 12 signifying December. Once you know the encoding system, date codes are fairly easy to decipher.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Chevy and locate the engine block. The engine block sits in the center of the engine compartment and contains the pistons, which are easily recognizable in the cylinders of the engine block.

2

Look at both the front face and rear face of the engine block for the block date code. It will be located on the top edge of either the front or rear face.

3

Decide which type of date code your block uses, either an alphanumeric or simple numeric code. Read the correct month of production accordingly: A-L for alphanumeric codes or 1-12 for numeric codes.

4

Read the second and third digits of the block date code. These will number between 01 and 31, denoting the day of the month your engine was manufactured. Sometimes the 0 is left out before the single digits of the first nine days of the month.

5

Read the final digit of the date code. Most often this contains only a single digit, which denotes the final numeral of a four-digit year. Refer to your cars manual if you do not know in which decade your car was produced. If a manual is unavailable, locate the block casting number beside the block date number. Match your blocks casting number to an online list of Chevy block casting numbers, which will indicate the years during which your engine was manufactured. From this selection you will be able to denote the correct decade to which your single year numeral belongs.