Repair 7

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

2

Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

3

Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

4

Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

5

Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

A torque wrench is a hand tool that has a gauge indicating specific torques being applied to a bolt or nut. They are helpful in the the construction and repair of auto engines, where specific fasteners have specific torques. Too much or too little torque may cause the engine to emit noise. Michigan Industrial Tools is one company that makes these instruments. Most torque wrenches operate in a similar manner.

Instructions

1

Check your repair manual for the specific torque of the bolt you are tightening.

2

Loosen the fastening bolt at the bottom of the wrenchs handle by turning it counter-clockwise.

3

Rotate the handle until it matches the desired torque measurement.

4

Tighten the fastening bolt by turning it clockwise to secure the handle.

5

Place the head of the torque wrench over the head of the nut. Hold the head of the wrench with one hand and the handle with the other.

6

Turn the wrench until the bolt is tightened. When it reaches the specified torque, the wrench will make an audible click and no longer tighten.

Routine Fluid Checks and Preventative Maintenance

The differential allows the drive wheels in your 2WD or 4WD car, truck or SUV to turn at different speeds. Proper lubrication of the gears is imperative for the safe and optimum performance of your vehicle. Checking the rear differential fluid every 15,000 miles for a "gummy" consistency will prevent costly repairs and can even extend the life of your drive-wheel tires.

Todays Vehicles Are Designed for Low Maintenance

Todays automobiles last longer. Technology has given them more sophisticated engineering, cleaner-burning fluids and low-maintenance designs. Frequently checking the differential fluid is unnecessary because of these advances. Checking the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits is more than adequate--with a complete fluid change at 90,000 miles.

Bottom Line

While preventative maintenance is the key to the life of your vehicle, you can avoid spending unnecessary time by simply checking the fluid during each oil change. If you have an older vehicle that is used for towing heavy loads long distances, checking the fluid every 15,000 miles or so is recommended. If you are driving a newer vehicle--one that is five years old or less--a check of the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits will suffice.

The BMW 320I was the base six-cylinder model of the 3 Series cars. The 3 Series were based on the rear-wheel drive E36 platform and were made from 1991 to 1998. The driveline is the axle that transfers power from the transmission to the rear differential. The axle uses continuous velocity joints to allow the rear axle to float on its suspension and move independently of the transmission. If the axle becomes warped or damaged then it needs to be removed for replacement. Do not attempt to repair the axle, because the torque will shatter any weld you make.

Instructions

1

Park the 320 somewhere flat and out of traffic. Make sure the emergency brake is pulled before you turn the car off. Jack up all the front end, and then lower the front end onto jack stands. Then, jack up the rear end, and support it on jack stands, as well.

2

Go underneath the 320 and find the driveline. Look for a metal tube that runs between the transmission rear and the rear differential. The tube will have two rubber boots over the continuous velocity joints. The metal flange on the bottom of the boots is what anchors the driveline to the other powertrain components.

3

Slide the car jack under the car and jack it up so it touches the transmission side of the driveline. Then, unbolt the six bolts that secure the driveline to the transmission. Do not lay directly under the driveline in case it falls off the car jack. It is heavier than it looks. Lower that end of the driveline down with the car jack and then go to the differential side.

4

Raise the car jack up so that it supports the differential end of the driveline. Then unbolt he six bolts that secure the driveline to the rear differential. Use the car jack to lower the driveline down. Pull the driveline out from under the 320. You can lower the 320 off the stands at this point but it will not be drivable until the driveline is replaced. You can push the car around if you disengage the emergency brake, though.

There are a number of different ways to upgrade and modify your vehicles exhaust system. By swapping out your cars muffler with a glass pack muffler, you can affect the noise level and performance abilities of your vehicle. You should consider all the possible side effects of altering your exhaust system before you put a glass pack muffler on your car or truck.

What is a Glass Pack?

Glass pack mufflers are designed to allow air to flow directly through the exhaust pipe and reduce back pressure. The exhaust channel of a glass pack muffler contains a fiberglass barrier, which helps muffle the exhaust noise. Glass pack mufflers do not contain baffles, which slow airflow through the muffler. Glass packs typically do not muffle as much sound as stock vehicle mufflers, so installing a glass pack will probably make your vehicles exhaust system louder.

Availibility and Cost

Glass pack mufflers are widely available from a variety of different manufacturers. In terms of exhaust modifications, glass packs are a relatively inexpensive modification. In most cases, you will be able to purchase the glass pack itself for less than $50.

Pros and Cons of Glass Packs

The main benefit of installing a glass pack is that you may be able to improve exhaust flow and reduce the amount of back pressure in your exhaust. Back pressure is created when the flow of exhaust through a muffler is restricted. Depending on the type of vehicle and engine, reducing back pressure can improve performance by allowing exhaust gases to flow out of the vehicle more quickly.

Legalities of a Glass Pack

The laws governing automobile exhaust modifications will vary, depending on the area in which you live. You should check your state and local laws before swapping out your cars muffler for an aftermarket glass pack muffler. States where emissions testing and inspections are done are the most likely to have laws affecting the modifications that can be done to an exhaust system. Failure to obey exhaust and emissions laws can lead to fines and even the loss of the ability to drive your vehicle on public roadways.

Engine cylinder barrels are bored out to a specific diameter when first manufactured. This cavity is precision-cut to fit a matching piston with piston rings. When a cylinder barrel operates correctly all of its parts create a tight chamber for combustion. However, over time the original bore in the barrel becomes warped from repeated friction, heat and cooling. Eventually, the bore loses its tight compression and the engine performance weakens. Re-boring a cylinder barrel helps improve engine performance, although the work is extremely technical.

Instructions

1

Obtain a bore gauge tool. Position the cylinder barrel on your workbench or work area so it wont move.

2

Use the bore gauge to measure the current bore from 12 oclock, 6 oclock, 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. Record these measurements.

3

Apply a honing plate to the bottom and top of the cylinder. Tighten it down with the barrel hardware and a socket torque wrench. Use the torque setting to ensure the appropriate tightness. Remeasure the bore from the same four positions as in Step 2. Write them down.

4

Compare the differences in the bore measurements to determine the change due to tightening pressure on the cylinder metal.

5

Loosen the barrel and install it on a drill press table. Secure the barrel upside down so the bore goes from the bottom to the top of the cylinder cavity when you drill. Obtain a metal bore drill bit for the new size desired based on your measured data.

6

Install the bore drill bit into the drill part of the drill press. Lock it in tight. Line up the drill bit position at dead center on the cylinder. Turn on the drill press. Lower the drill press mechanism slowly but firmly until it drills out the new bore in the cylinder. Remove the drill bit by rotating the drill bit upward again.

7

Remove the barrel and prepare it for honing and chamfering of the ports to remove the new sharp edges.

The National Pipe Tapered Thread (NPT) was created in 1864 to set a standard of measurement. An NPT pipe has a tapered male end and a threaded female end to join pipes for mechanical and hydraulic applications. Taking proper measurements of the pipe ends allow you to purchase fittings, nipples and caps that fit the pipe correctly and form a tight seal.

Instructions

1

Turn on a pair of digital calipers. Spread the large jaws apart that measure outside diameter (OD).

2

Place the jaws around the threads of a male pipe and close them until they touch the pipe. Read the digital display of the OD.

3

Measure the OD of a pipe with female (internal threads) on the end of the pipe with digital calipers.

4

Lay a pipe with male threads on a flat surface. Pull out the tip of a measuring tape and lock it in position at the 1-inch mark. Align the tape measure tip with the end of the pipe. Count the threads on the pipe in the 1-inch area. Use a pencil point to touch each thread as you count it for an accurate measurement of threads per inch (TPI).

5

Compare your OD measurements and TPI to a pipe thread size chart and choose the size closest to your measurement to obtain the nominal pipe size.