MR2 Alignment Specifications

Wednesday, October 15, 2014 | Labels: , , | 0 comments |

Toyota introduced the MR2 in 1985, intending to offer the look and feel of an exotic sports car for the fraction of the price. The first generation of the vehicle ran from 1985 to 1989; the second generation ran from 1991 to 1995, when Toyota discontinued it. Toyota offered the convertible MR2 Spyder from 2000 to 2005, but it was technically a different vehicle and should not be confused with the original MR2.

Caster

    The ideal setting for the caster angle on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +3.25 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The caster angle was not adjustable on the rear wheels of the vehicle because it came with a fixed rear axle.

Camber

    The ideal setting for the camber angle on the front wheels of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was -1.0 degree but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the camber angle on the rear wheels was -1.58 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Toe-in

    The ideal setting for the toe-in on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +0.1 degree but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the rear end was +0.4 degrees but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) and Turning Angle

    The ideal SAI for the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +13.8 degrees but it could range by 0.8 degrees in either direction. The ideal turning angle was 37/32 degrees but it could range by 1.5 degrees in either direction.

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What Happens When a Front Axle Breaks

Wednesday, August 27, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , | 2 comments |
What Happens When a Front Axle Breaks?

Driving any automobile is nothing, if not an exercise in constant blind faith. Just the fact that any soccer mom in the world can take a 50 mph curve without wondering what would happen if a tire blew, a ball joint broke or an axle-shaft snapped is testament to the pragmatic advantages of deliberate ignorance. Still, it never hurts to be prepared for any eventuality, especially if you find yourself in circumstances where breakage is likely.

Open Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

    Most cars use "open" differentials, which route power to the wheel with the least traction. If you break an axle-shaft or constant velocity joint in a front-wheel drive car with an open differential while accelerating in a straight line, then power will simply flow into the broken axle and spin it. The engine will rev and the axle will spin, but the car wont move. The same goes for front axle-shafts in a 4WD truck, but if the axle tube itself breaks, then odds are that your truck will nose-dive into the road.

Locked Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

    Many performance cars use locked, limited-slip or "torque biasing" differentials. Locked axles are just that; the left and right wheels always turn at the same speed. Limited-slip differentials can transfer some or all of the power to the wheel with the most traction -- the one spinning slower -- and torque-biasing differentials can transfer some, but not all of the power. With any of these differentials, the car will suddenly veer in the direction of the broken axle since the other wheel is the one doing all the pushing.

Open Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

    If the axle-shaft is on the inside of a curve -- the right side for a right-hander, left for a left-hander -- while accelerating out of a curve, the vehicle will most likely dart inward toward the curve. Front-wheel drive cars and trucks in 4WD naturally exhibit a certain amount of understeer as the front tires struggle to both accelerate the car and keep it turning. Should the axle-shaft break on a front-wheel drive car, itll quickly-turn into a no-wheel-drive and probably exhibit neutral handling. A 4WD truck or all-wheel drive car will suddenly turn into a rear-driver, which can result in snap oversteer and a probable spinout if the driver doesnt lift off the gas soon enough.

LS or TB Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

    Front-wheel drives with a limited-slip or torque biasing differential will exhibit a somewhat more severe oversteer condition as power flows from the inside tire to the outside. A clutch-type limited slip may induce a severe oversteer condition and possible spinout, if its powerful enough to transfer all of the engines power to one wheel. The same goes for all-wheel cars and 4WD trucks with an LS or TB differential, but far more so.

Locked Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

    Fully locked front differentials will act a bit differently than those that allow the wheels to spin at different speeds. This is especially true off-road, which is the only place youre likely to see anything with a locked front differential. Cars have differentials because the outside tire has to turn faster than the inside tire; if you lock the differential, the inside tire will always spin while turning and contribute little to no traction. Under these circumstances, the truck may break either the inside or outside axle, depending on the conditions.

    If the inside axle breaks, all the power will go to the outside tire, inducing an understeer condition. If the outside axle breaks, that tire will gain traction while the inside tire continues to spin, inducing a neutral to understeer condition. One caveat though, a locked differential may do exactly the opposite, particularly if the truck lacks the power to spin the outside tire while turning, or spin the inside tire during a tight turn.

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How to Remove Straight Shot Baffles

Saturday, June 7, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Remove Straight Shot Baffles

Vance & Hines makes aftermarket replacement and performance exhausts for several motorcycle brands. The companys "Straight Shots "appear at a glance to be old-fashioned straight pipes, but the exhausts actually measure 1-3/4 inches in diameter by the engine and 2-1/4 inches at the tail. Baffles are a component in automobile and motorcycle exhausts that restrict how easily engine exhaust gases can escape. Engines need some exhaust back pressure to work efficiently, but baffles also restrict the potential power that can be realized in any motorcycle engine. All Vance & Hines exhausts come with replaceable baffles.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the worm clamp screws on the heat shields on both exhaust pipes with a flat head screwdriver. Heat shields partially insulate riders and passengers from very hot exhaust pipes. Worm clamps are simple devices that are tightened or loosened by turning a screw.

    2

    Remove the heat shields. Some Vance & Hines exhausts allow baffle replacement by just loosening and turning the heat shields, but the shape of Straight Shot heat shields prevents them from turning.

    3

    Lay on your back and locate the two Allen head screws on the bottom of the exhaust, in rear of the seam where the header pipes and tailpipes connect. The rear screw is called the baffle screw.

    4

    Remove both baffle screws using an Allen wrench and save them.

    5

    Stick the jaws of a pair of pliers about one inch into the rear of each pipe. Close the jaws and pull the baffle out of each pipe.

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How to Install a Cam in a 350 Motor

Friday, June 6, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Install a Cam in a 350 Motor

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

    1

    Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

    2

    Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

    3

    Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

    4

    Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

    5

    Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

    6

    Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

    7

    Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

    8

    Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

    9

    Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

    10

    Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

    11

    Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

    12

    Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

    13

    Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

    14

    Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

    15

    Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

    16

    Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

    17

    Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

    18

    Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

    19

    Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

    20

    Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

    21

    Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

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How to Troubleshoot a Dodge Intrepid Transmission

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How to Troubleshoot a Dodge Intrepid Transmission

If the transmission is not working as it should in your Dodge Intrepid, then you might be very worried. People have the misconception that when you have issues with a transmission it will be very costly to fix. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be performed even by someone with little mechanical ability. Set aside about two hours to troubleshoot your Dodge Intrepid transmission.

Instructions

    1

    Look at the ground where you regularly park your Dodge. If you have a puddle of red transmission fluid under your Intrepid, then you have a transmission leak. This is most likely the reason why your transmission is acting up.

    2

    Lift up the hood on your Dodge and pull out the transmission dipstick. The transmission dipstick is located on the drivers side of the engine. You will see that the dipstick is identified with the word "transmission" on the top of it.

    3

    Start the engine of your Dodge. Pull out the dipstick and wipe if off with the paper towel. Put the dipstick back in and take it right back out. You will see two different level lines on the dipstick. One will read "full hot" and the other "full cold." Make sure that the fluid level is correct for cold since you have not driven or warmed up the transmission yet. If you have low fluid, then this is the reason for your transmission malfunction.

    4

    Follow the dipstick tube down to the transmission. Locate any wires connected to the transmission. If you have any broken or disconnected connections, this could be why your Dodge Intrepid transmission is failing.

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How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

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How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

    1

    Take out the fuel filler cap.

    2

    Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

    3

    Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

    4

    Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

    5

    Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

    6

    Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

    7

    Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

    8

    Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

    9

    Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

    10

    Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

    11

    Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

    12

    Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

    13

    Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

    14

    Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

    15

    Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

    16

    Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

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The Disadvantages of Spur Gears

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The Disadvantages of Spur Gears

Spur gears, the most common type of gear, are often used because they are the simplest to design and manufacture, and are the most efficient, as well. Spur gears have straight teeth that are situated parallel to the gear axis. They are most commonly used in power tools and robotics applications. Although they are common and efficient, spur gears have disadvantages as well.

Noise

    Spur gears are very noisy when used at some speeds because the entire face engages at once. Thus, theyre known as slow-speed gears. Helical gears, in comparison, operate almost silently.

Strength

    Spur gears are not as strong as some other gears. They cannot handle as much of a load because the teeth are small and situated parallel to the gear axis, rather than being large and situated diagonally as the teeth on a helical gear are.

Non-Parallel Shafts

    Spur gears can only be used to transfer power between parallel shafts. They cannot transfer power between non-parallel shafts.

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