Repair 7

If the headlights on your Pontiac Grand Am are malfunctioning, they should be fixed immediately. Malfunctioning headlights reduce road visibility and make it difficult for other drivers to see your vehicle on the road in darkened conditions. Troubleshooting the headlights on your Grand Am is a simple process that involves checking the wiring, checking the bulb, and checking the fuse of your headlights.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Grand Am. Remove the keys from the ignition.

2

Lift up on the two retaining clips securing the headlamp assembly.

3

Pull the headlamp assembly out of the mounting bracket. This will reveal the electrical connector. Lightly tug on the electrical connector. If it comes out, plug it into the rear of the headlamp assembly. Make sure it is secure by lightly tugging it again. If the headlights are still malfunctioning, there may be an issue with the bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector and completely remove the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

4

Rotate the bulb assembly retainer counterclockwise and pull it out.

5

Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. Remove the old bulb and place the new bulb into the assembly.

6

Reattach the wiring harness to the bulb assembly. Place the bulb assembly back into the headlamp assembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place. Reattach the electrical connector.

7

Place the headlamp assembly back into the mount bracket. Press down on the two retaining clips to lock the headlamp assembly into place. Repeat on the other side headlamp if necessary. If the headlights are still not turning on, then there may be an issue with the headlamp fuses.

8

Open the underhood fuse block on the drivers side of the vehicle. Simply lift the cover on the fuse block to access the fuses. Underneath the cover is a fuse puller tool and several replacement fuses.

9

Locate the fuses numbered "50" and "51." "50" is the right-hand headlamp fuse and "51" is the left-hand headlamp fuse. Check to see if the fuses are broken. A fuse is broken if the metal inside the fuse is no longer in one piece. If either fuse is broken, use the provided fuse puller tool to remove the fuse. Replace it with an identical 15 amp fuse.

10

Place the cover back onto the fuse block. Close the hood.

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

1

Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

2

Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

3

Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

4

Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

5

Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

6

Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

7

Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

8

Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

9

Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

10

Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

11

Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

12

Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

13

Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

14

Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

15

Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

16

Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

17

Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

18

Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

19

Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

20

Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

21

Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

1

Take out the fuel filler cap.

2

Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

3

Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

4

Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

5

Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

6

Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

7

Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

8

Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

9

Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

10

Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

11

Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

12

Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

13

Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

14

Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

15

Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

16

Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

The Toyota Prius is a hybrid electric-gas, mid-sized vehicle. One of the standard features of the car is a keyless entry system and alarm transmitter that is built into the vehicles key. At times, you will need to replace the battery inside the Prius key.

Instructions

1

Push the latch on the top of the key to the left and pull the medal door key out of the plastic frame.

2

Turn the key over and press the key latch all the way down.

3

Push the back of the key in the opposite direction with your thumb.

4

Pull the top of the key all the way off.

5

Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding the battery in place and remove the battery.

6

Insert a new CR2032 battery in the battery holder and replace the Phillips screws.

7

Snap the top of the key back into place

Pushrods are the longest and most visible pieces in a chain of mechanical components that connect a cam shaft inside a Harley-Davidson Evolution engine, with the rockers that open and close the exhaust and intake valves in a Harley cylinder head. The "lift" of these valves determines how much air and exhaust enters and leaves the cylinders. Within this chain of components, pushrods or rockers may be adjusted. It is easier to adjust pushrods than it is to pull apart the top of the engine. Harleys are shipped with non-adjustable pushrods, but the motor company does sell a set of quick install adjustable pushrods that bolt in as follows.

Instructions

1

Shift the motorcycle into top gear. Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground.

2

Cut the stock pushrods in half with a bolt cutter and pull them off the engine.

3

Remove both spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Shine a flashlight into the front spark plug well and look into it.

4

Slowly turn the rear wheel by hand until the front piston is at the top of its stroke.

5

Replace the O-rings, the lower pushrod covers and the spring cover keeper with new components supplied in the kit by hand using a flathead screwdriver when needed.

6

Loosen the locknut on all of the pushrods with an open end wrench and adjust them to their shortest length.

7

Install the pushrods with pushrod covers by hand, ensuring that the adjuster end of the pushrod is down and the ball end of the adjuster is in the tappet socket. Adjust the pushrods for your motorcycle according to the instructions in the kit.

8

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the sparkplugs with a sparkplug socket and socket wrench.

Oldsmobile is a brand of car manufactured by General Motors. The Oldsmobile models that were in production in 1989 include the 88, 98, Cutlass Supreme and Toronado. All of these vehicles use a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, to keep the crankshaft stable as it rotates. The crankshaft balancer is a weighted disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the harmonic balancer in a 1989 Oldsmobile is generally the same for all models, except for the components you need to remove to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine during the crankshaft balancer installation. Turn the drive belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Detach the drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

2

Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. This can include the shroud for the cooling fan, the cooling fan and the radiator, depending on the specific Oldsmobile model.

3

Disconnect the attaching bolt for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench. Attach a puller to the crankshaft damper, and pull the damper from the crankshaft. Release the puller from the damper.

4

Mount the new crankshaft damper to the crankshaft, and fasten the mounting bolt for the damper with a socket wrench.

5

Install the components you removed in step two to access the crankshaft. Mount the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, and turn the belt tensioner clockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

There are two oxygen or O2 sensors in the exhaust system on the 1995 Chevy Astro van. The process of changing the O2 sensors is the same whether it is the upstream or downstream sensors that you need to change, except that the location is different. These O2 sensors are critical to the proper operation of the fuel system and performance of the engine in your van. If you have a bad sensor, change it right away to correct drivability issues, hard stats and poor fuel mileage.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Chevy Astro with a jack and support it under the frame rails with a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the van is securely on the stands.

2

Locate the O2 sensors from under the van. The upstream sensor threads into the exhaust pipe coming down from the engine manifold. It is on the inside edge of the pipe, closest to the engine block. The downstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust system just forward of the catalytic converter.

3

Determine which sensor you need to change, and position yourself below it. Locate the wiring harness coming out of the back of the top of the sensor and follow it up to the connector where the sensors harness and the vans wiring harness join. Disconnect the two halves of the connector by releasing the locking tab and pulling them apart.

4

Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe using an O2 sensor socket and ratchet to turn the sensor counterclockwise until it is free from the threads. Discard the old sensor and install the new one into the threaded hole on the exhaust pipe using your hands to get it starter. This will help prevent cross threading.

5

Tighten the O2 sensor with your O2 sensor socket and ratchet. Run the wiring harness connector from the new sensor up to the connector on the vans wiring harness. Push the two halves of the connectors together until the locking tab engages. If you are replacing both sensors, move to the other sensor and repeat the process.

6

Raise the front of your Astro off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the stands from under the van then lower the jack, setting the van back on the ground. Test run the engine to verify the sensors are functioning properly.

The Ford Probe was a sport coupe manufactured from 1989 to 1997, with the second generation of this series beginning in 1993. The GT trim level was a sportier version of the base model, and included a six-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine requires a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshafts and crankshafts. The timing belt in a 1993 Ford Probe requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts on the right engine mount. Disconnect the engine mount and detach the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket must align with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must align with the timing marks on the cylinder head.

3

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place to avoid stripping the threads on the mounting bolts when you remove them. Disconnect the lower mounting bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench first, then disconnect the upper mounting bolt. Remove the mounting bolts on the number 1 idler pulley and remove the pulley. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Insert a tool handle of appropriate size into one of the camshaft sprocket holes to hold it in place. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

5

Shift your transmission into fourth gear and set the parking brake if your vehicle has manual transmission. Disconnect the dust cover for the flywheel with a socket wrench, and install a locking tool onto the flywheel if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket.

6

Align the dowel on the right camshaft with the slot on the right camshaft sprocket Installed the sprocket onto the camshaft and hold the sprocket in place. Fasten the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket and tighten it to between 35 and 48 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Repeat this step to install the left camshaft sprocket.

7

Align the key way on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the oil pump and install the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket to between 116 and 122 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place with a vertical press and push the adjuster rod into its hole to align the hole on the piston with the second hole on the case of the timing belt tensioner. Place a metal pin with a diameter of 0.063 in. into the second hole on the timing belt case to hold the piston in place.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, if necessary. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the sprocket back by one tooth.

10

Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, number two idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner pulley and right camshaft sprocket in that order. Apply pressure to the timing belt to hold it in place, and install the number one idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolt for the pulley to between 28 and 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the timing belt tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to between 14 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the pin from the timing belt case. Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to align the timing marks again.

12

Adjust the timing belt tensioner so that the deflection of the timing belt between the crankshaft and timing belt tensioner is 0.24 to 0.31 inches.

13

Connect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and install the right engine mount. Tighten the nuts for the engine mount to between 55 and 77 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the through bolt to between 63 in 86 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jacks supporting the engine, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Mazda B Series is a line of pickup trucks that Mazda Motor Corporation has manufactured since 1961. The number in the model name indicates the displacement of the engine, so the B2200 has a 2.2-liter engine. This engine has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing belt to coordinate the opening and closing of the cylinder valves. The replacement of the timing belt in a 1989 Mazda B2200 is part of its routine maintenance schedule.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and detach the accessory drive belts. Disconnect the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the A mark on the camshaft pulley with the timing mark on the camshaft housing. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

3

Detach the spring for the timing belt tensioner with a pair of brake pliers. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and remove the tensioner. Disconnect the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Place a T-wrench onto one of the housing bolts for the camshaft pulley. Place another T-wrench on the mounting bolt for the pulley and disconnect the mounting bolt. Remove the camshaft pulley from the camshaft.

5

Install the new timing belt and align the timing marks on the camshaft pulley if necessary. Ensure that the timing belt engages the teeth on the sprockets of the camshaft, crankshaft and belt tensioner.

6

Install the mounting bolt for the belt tensioner and tighten it by hand. Install the tensioner spring, and loosen the lock bolt for the belt tensioner with a socket wrench.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns and align the timing marks. Tighten the locking bolt on the timing belt to between 28 and 38 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the timing belt tensioner to adjust the tension on the timing belt. The timing belt should deflect by about 12mm when you apply a force of 22 lbs. to the longest span of the timing belt.

8

Replace the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and attach the accessory drive belts. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Replacing the mass air flow sensor on your 2000 Buick 3.8-liter engine is relatively straightforward. The MAF sensor sits on top of the throttle body just above the air intake. The MAF sensor is a flat, plastic piece held in place with several screws and has an electrical connector attached to its left side. Replacement OE MAF sensors are available through the dealer and aftermarket replacements are available from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Buick and locate the throttle body on the front of the engine. The air intake hose attaches to the front of the throttle body, making it easy to identify.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector from the end of the sensor by lifting the locking tab on the connector, then pulling it straight off the sensor. Locate the two screws on the top of the sensor--they are at opposite corners--and remove them with a Torx screwdriver.

3

Lift the MAF sensor straight up and away from the throttle body. Discard it and position a new MAF sensor on the throttle body, aligning the screw holes in the sensor with the threaded holes on the throttle body.

4

Install the two Torx-head retaining screws through the MAF sensor and into the throttle body. Tighten them with a Torx screwdriver, then push the electrical connector onto the end of the new sensor, making sure the locking tab snaps in place.

The front spindle nut on a 1995 Honda Accord is a single-use nut. This nut contains an outer flange that must be staked into a groove on the end of the axle shaft. The staking procedure prevents the nut from loosening when the vehicle is driven, but necessitates the replacement of the nut when its removed. In order to remove the 36 mm axle nut, the staked portion of the nut must be pounded out of the axle shaft to allow the nut to spin freely.

Instructions

Removal

1

Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut socket and a t-handle breaker bar.

2

Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and set it down on jack stands

3

Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Locate the axle nut in the center of the rotor, on the end of the axle shaft. Align a steel punch with the staked-in portion of the axle nut, then use a hammer to drive the punch into the staked-in portion to undo the staking.

4

Place a 36 mm socket on the end of a t-handle breaker bar and place the socket over the axle nut. Ask an assistant to hold a large pry in-between the wheel studs; this holds the hub still so the axle and transmission arent damaged.

5

Loosen and remove the axle nut, then discard it.

Installation

6

Install a new axle nut onto the axle shaft, and have an assistant hold the pry bar between the wheel studs again.

7

Tighten the nut and torque it to 181 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Align a steel punch with the channel on the axle shaft, then strike the punch with a hammer to stake the new nut into place.

9

Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle back to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

You can install a windshield on your 1973 Camaro with the help of a friend. Chevrolet introduced the Camaro to North America in 1967 as a competitor to Fords Mustang. The windshield keeps the roof from collapsing during an accident. It also helps keep you from being thrown from the vehicle. To do this job, you need some supplies that can be found at most auto parts stores. To save money, call your local auto wrecking yard to see whether it has any 1973 Camaro windshields in good condition.

Instructions

1

Fit a gasket around the new windshield. Make sure the slit on the gasket will be facing the outside of the Camaro once the windshield has been installed.

2

Run a line of sealant along the half channel all around the gasket.

3

Wipe some petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove, adding some extra to the top and bottom center of the gasket. Line a nylon cord around the outer groove starting at the bottom center of the gasket. Leave a piece of cord at the start and end point.

4

Put on your work gloves, and have your helper put on work gloves. Together, put the windshield into the windshield frame from outside the vehicle. Push the nylon cords into the Camaro so they are resting on the dashboard.

5

Pull one cord out and around the frame to pull the gaskets lip inside the car. At the same time, have your helper press the gasket onto the outside edge of the windshield frame.

6

Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.

Knowing how to maintain your vehicle can save you time and money. However, maintenance on your vehicle can be a bit challenging. Learning the basics, such as how to replace your turn signal bulbs, can be tricky but also one that is rewarding for both you and your wallet.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your vehicle and remove the round panel directly behind the taillight assembly.

2

Unscrew the exposed black knob to release the back light casing.

3

Locate the release tab on the light and pull out the casing. The release tab should be in the gap between the light casing and the portion of the vehicle closest to the hatch back door.

4

Find the two exposed light switches on the back of the exposed light. One of the switches is for your vehicles brake light and the other is for the turn signal.

5

Disconnect the wires on the back of the turn signal and turn the switch counter-clockwise to remove.

6

Remove the old bulb and with the clean cloth, insert the new bulb. The bottom of the bulb must be lined up properly in order to secure itself in the casing.

7

Replace and reconnect the turn signal switch and wires. Replace the casing and secure the black knob and panel.

8

Turn on the turn signal to ensure that it is working properly.

An L-pad is essentially a sliding rheostat used in audio setups, be it in your car or in your home audio setup. To calculate the resistance values in an L-pad, you need to test the individual resistors with a multimeter set to resistance. This will then tell you what the individual resistances are of the wires. You can then determine what the resistance value of the L-pad is by checking the setting of the the slide.

Instructions

1

Turnon the circuit with which you are working. Ensure that there is power flowing from the power source to the audio player by turning the multimeter dial tothe voltage setting. Plug the probes to the voltage holes on the face of the multimeter. Touch the red probe to the wire going into the L-pad and the black probe to the wire coming from the L-pad. If the multimeter displays a positive voltage, then you have a live current.

2

Slide the L-pad slide to the topmost setting. Turn the multimeter to the resistance setting and plug the probes into the resistance holes in the face of the multimeter. Put the red probe on one side of the resistor in the L-pad that is connected to the top setting contacts. Place the black probe on the other side of the resistor that is connected to the top settings contacts. Read the resistance value and write it down.

3

Slide the slide down to the next lower setting and place the robes on either side of the resistor connected to those contacts. Write down the resistance value. Repeat this process for all the resistors in the L-pad to obtain the resistance value of the L-pad.

The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup truck that has been in production since 1998. It is available with several types of V-6 and V-8 engines, which have a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket varies slightly, depending on which cylinder head you must remove. These procedures are generally the same for the 4.3-liter, 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines in the 2000 Chevrolet pickup.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable using the socket wrench. Detach the bleed pipe for the coolant from the right cylinder head. Disconnect the intake manifold and remove the push rods from the engine. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

2

Remove the mounting bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the alternator bracket that is behind the power steering pump, and push the bracket aside with the alternator still attached.

3

Disconnect the bolt that attaches the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the oil level tube from the right cylinder head, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and discard the 11-mm mounting bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the engine and discard the cylinder head gasket.

5

Clean the bolt holes on the engine block with GM spray cleaner, part number 12346139, and blow the holes clear with compressed air. Remove the thread-locking material from the 8-mm mounting bolts with the GM driver tool, part number J 42385-107. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the locating pins on the engine block, then install the cylinder head over the locating pins.

6

Fasten new 11-mm mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Apply a 0.2-inch bead of GM thread lock compound, part number 12345382, to the threads of the 8-mm bolts, and fasten them by hand.

7

Tighten the 11-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the 11-mm bolts an additional 90 degrees on the second pass, then tighten them another 70 degrees on the third pass. Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds, beginning with the center bolt. Work your way outward on the 8-mm bolts, alternating from side to side.

8

Connect the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Mount the bracket for the alternator and tighten its bolts to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, including the mounting bolt below the power steering pump. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine, and install the push rods. Attach the bleed pipe for the coolant to the right cylinder head, and connect the negative battery cable.

The Mazda 6 sedan is equipped with fixed door mirrors that may be subject to damage from minor car accidents. The procedure for replacing a door mirror is simple enough to be performed at home using basic tools, although it does require partial removal of the interior door panel. You can obtain a replacement mirror at either a Mazda dealer parts counter or you may find one at a local parts shop or junkyard.

Instructions

Removing the door and mirror assemblies

1

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Remove the tweeter speaker assembly from the inside of the door where the window frame meets the front of the door. Use a wide, flat bladed screwdriver or your fingers to caully pop the retaining clips around the assembly away from the door.

3

Disconnect the tweeter assembly from the doors wiring by pushing the locking pin down and separating the connector pieces. Set the tweeter assembly aside.

4

Pop off the cover for the door light at the base of the door panel. This is held in place by plastic prongs. Once this is removed, remove the screw located underneath.

5

Pop open the small cap underneath the passenger side door handle and remove the screw hidden below the cap. Pull the door handle out and remove the plastic surrounding piece. Disconnect the wiring for the power door lock and set the plastic surrounding piece aside.

6

In the door handle "pocket," pull the rubbery trim piece up ---this is secured by adhesive--- just enough to access the screw hidden beneath. Remove the screw.

7

Caully work your way around the door panel starting at the base and pull the panel out to the retaining clips holding the panel in place. There are two clips at the back (latching) side, there are two along the base, one at the front lower corner, and three going up the front (hinge) side.

8

Lift the door panel vertically to disengage the hooks from the top of the door. You may be able to just disengage the front hook while leaving the rear hook clipped. Allow the panel to come away from the door structure enough to allow access to the three bolts holding the door mirror in place. This will not require disconnecting the power window harness.

9

Disconnect the power mirror electrical connector and remove the three nuts holding the mirror assembly on the door. Gently work the mirror away from the door.

Installing the mirror and door assemblies

10

Insert the bolts on the replacement mirror assembly through the openings in the door and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts, ensuring that the fit is snug and even. Reconnect the power mirror wiring harness.

11

Hook the door panel back to the top of the door structure, caully ensuring that the panel lines up properly and that the interior door handle fits through the cutout in the door panel. Work around the door panel pushing each of the retaining clips back into place.

12

Insert the screw into the hole in the door handle pocket ---under the rubbery trim--- and tighten it to snug. Push the trim down and hold until the adhesive sticks it into place.

13

Clip the wiring connector for the power door lock back onto the harness and work the trim piece into place around the interior door handle. Insert the screw into the hole in the trim piece and tighten until snug. Push the cap into place covering the screw. Insert the screw into the hole by the door light and tighten until snug. Clip the door light cover into place.

14

Reconnect the tweeter wiring harness and reinstall it by pushing the retaining clips back into place. Reconnect the cars battery and test to make sure that the electrical connections are properly installed and that all devices work as intended.

The alarm in your 2001 Grand Cherokee can be annoying if you are trying to make any kind of repair to your vehicle. This alarm is designed to be a deterrent to auto theft, but will go off during the repair process. If you want to disable the car alarm, you have a couple of options -- either removing the fuse for the alarm or removing the power supply from your alarm. When you take the power away from the alarm, you will be able to make your repair in peace.

Instructions

Disconnecting The Battery

1

Locate the hood release latch on the front of the Grand Cherokee and open the hood.

2

Locate the negative terminal on the Cherokees battery. This terminal has a -- sign next to it.

3

Loosen the terminal with a pair of channel locks.

4

Remove the terminal from the Cherokees battery to disable the car alarm.

Removing The Fuse

5

Go to the drivers side of the Cherokee and locate the fuse box to the left under the steering wheel.

6

Pry open the fuse box with your fingers.

7

Consult your user manual to get the location of the alarm fuse.

8

Remove the alarm fuse from the fuse box to disable the car alarm with the fuse puller in your fuse box.

The fourth generation of the 1500 series pickup truck appeared in 1988 and was manufactured until 2000 by Chevrolet. There were a total of eight different versions and cab variations of the 1500. They were powered by reliable V8 engines that required periodic service if parts like the intake manifold gasket would fail.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Mark the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor for proper reassembly. Remove the distributor. Unplug the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve and the coolant bypass hose.

2

Pull out the fuel supply and return lines from the rear part of the intake manifold. Unplug the wiring harness and brackets. Remove the throttle cable and bracket. Remove the cruise control cable.

3

Take out the transmission oil level indicator tube. Remove the EGR inlet tube, clamp and bolt. Remove the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Unscrew the air conditioning compressor. Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bracket and slide forward, but do not remove it. Lay the A/C compressor out of the way. Do not kink the air conditioning lines.

4

Remove the power brake vacuum tube and the rocker arm cover. Remove the generator rear bracket bolt. Take out the intake manifold. Remove the old pieces of gasket from the gasket surfaces. Clean the excessive carbon buildup from inside the exhaust passages and the scale and deposits from the coolant passages. Inspect the manifold for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.

Installation Procedure

5

Position the new gaskets to the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and "This Side Up" facing up. Install the lower intake manifold on the engine. Apply sealer to the lower intake manifold bolts. Put in the lower intake manifold bolts back in place. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the first step apply 27 inch pounds of torque. In the second apply 106 inch pound of torque and in the last step tighten the bolts applying 11 foot pounds of torque.

6

Plug in the wiring harness connectors and brackets. Connect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Install the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Connect the coolant bypass hose.

7

Install the EGR valve and the valve rocker arm cover. Connect the fuel supply and return lines at the rear of the intake manifold. Plug in the wiring harness and brackets. Install the cruise control cable (if equipped).

8

Install the throttle cable and bracket. Put back the transmission oil level indicator tube. Install the EGR inlet tube, clamp, and bolt. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Install the power brake vacuum tube. Install the generator and the bracket bolt (if needed). Install the air conditioning compressor and bracket. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. Connect the distributor. Note the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor made at disassembly.

The two-stroke motorcycle engine is a contradiction. Despite their bare-bones mechanical simplicity, they tend to require far more attention to keep them performing than their larger brothers. Oil must be caully added to the fuel mixture in the correct proportions, and regular rebuilds are not uncommon. Following such a rebuild, it is advisable to complete a period of Running-In to ease the engine back into performing, without putting it under sudden strain. There are countless interpretations of how to do this, but several principles hold true across all of them.

Instructions

1

Start the bike, and allow it to idle for a few minutes until the engine is up to temperature. Do not lean the bike on its side stand, as this will cause the oil to collect in one side of the crank case. Use the center stand, or sit on the bike if it does not have one. Turn off the bike. An important characteristic of the running-in process is gradually increasing the periods of time for which the bike is running. Once it has cooled enough to touch, start it again.

2

Ride the machine for a short 5- to 10-minute run, keeping the throttle below 50 percent, and ensuring that all other components; brakes, shifting, steering, etc.; are all functioning OK. Return home, and allow the bike to cool down completely again. This will generally take at least 30 minutes, but the longer the better. You should be able to touch the pipes and radiator without feeling any residual heat.

3

Start the bike again, and head out for another ride. This time, the throttle can be pushed to 60 percent. After 10 to 15 minutes, return home again, and allow the bike to cool once more. Repeat this process another four times, increasing your throttle limit by 10 percent on each run, every time allowing the bike to cool down completely every time.

4

Ensure all fasteners are still fully tightened. Your two-stroke engine should now be ticking over smoothly. Allowing the engine to properly cool after each run helps small quantities of oil to act as a seal at the points where different components meet, reducing the possibility of damaging the pistons.

The 1993 Ford Mustang is a third generation of the car, which was in production from 1979 to 1993. The procedure for replacing the ignition coil in a 93 Mustang depends primarily on the engine. The engine is typically an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter Windsor engine. The ignition coil converts the 12 volts from the battery into the thousands of volts the spark plugs need to produce a spark. The ignition coil in a 1993 Mustang is located on the front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

2

Disconnect the connector for the electrical harness on the ignition coil. Depress the locking tabs on the spark plug wires to detach the wires from the spark plug boot of the ignition coil.

3

Remove the mounting screws for the ignition coil with a socket wrench. Disconnect the ignition coil from the engine.

4

Install the new ignition coil and tighten its retaining screws to between 40 and 62 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Apply dielectric compound into the spark plug boots to maximize the electrical contact between the wires and boots. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plug boot on the ignition coil.

5

Attach the electrical connector for the ignition coils wiring harness. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.