Repair 7

The water pump in the 1998 Ford Explorer is located on the front of the engine block by the cooling fan. It circulates coolant through the block to prevent the engine from overheating during its operation. The primary symptom of a faulty water pump is a continually increasing engine temperature, even with the proper amount of coolant. A malfunctioning water pump causes excessive wear to the engine and may eventually damage the engine permanently.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Position a drain pan under the radiator and open the radiator drain. Replace the plug after the coolant is completely drained from the radiator.

2

Disconnect the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan. Remove the cooling fan assembly. Disconnect the accessory drive belt.

3

Detach the water bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the brackets for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor, and push the wiring harness out of the way. Remove the attaching bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the pulley.

4

Remove the attaching bolts for the water pump. Record the position of each bolt since they have different lengths. Detach the pump from the front engine cover. Disconnect the radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the pump from the vehicle and discard its gasket.

5

Clean the mounting surfaces of the pump and front engine cover with a shop towel. Apply a layer of gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket. Mount the gasket onto the water pump.

6

Connect the radiator hose to the new pump. Install the pump and place the mounting bolts in the correct holes that you recorded earlier. Torque the mounting bolts to between 15 and 21 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Complete the installation of the water pump by performing steps two and three in reverse order.

7

Refill the cooling system with coolant and reattach the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

You can remove the windshield from your 1995 Honda from your home garage and save yourself a little money. You may choose to remove the windshield if it has any cracks or chips in it. You should definitely remove the windshield if it has any cracks longer than six inches in length. To leave a damaged windshield in place is to compromise the safety of the passengers. It is a fairly simple task to remove a windshield, requiring a few inexpensive tools that can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Put on protective goggles and thick work gloves.

2

Use the pry tool to pry up the seal around the entire perimeter of the Hondas windshield. Pull the seal off of the windshield with your hands and discard it.

3

Run a windshield wire knife tool around the entire edge of the windshield to cut the glass from the urethane glue.

4

Sit inside the Honda and push the windshield out. Go outside the car and remove the windshield and set it aside.

5

Scrape off the remaining urethane from the windshield opening with a utility knife.

Bearings come in all shapes and sizes. Bearing-pressing tools likewise come in various shapes and sizes depending on the job at hand. Some bearings require a large hydraulic press, normally not available to do-it-yourself mechanics. Other bearing pressing jobs require nothing more than a C-clamp and two sockets. The ideal (and safest) way for a "shade tree" mechanic to press bearings is with a hand-operated bearing press.

Instructions

Pressing Bearings Out

1

Screw the steel threaded rod into the main handle of the bearing press.

2

Slip a female adapter cup over the steel threaded rod, ensuring that the bottom of the cup faces the main handle of the bearing press.

3

Slide the correctly sized male extraction adapter through the inner race of the bearing.

4

Slide the other end of the threaded rod through the hole in the center of the male adapter. Screw the other handle of the bearing press onto thethreaded rod .

5

Spin the main handle clockwise down the threaded rod until all cups and adapters tighten. Inspect the assembly to ensure that the female cup sits flush with the frame or hub where the bearing is located.

6

Wind the main handle clockwise, allowing the male adapter to push the bearing into the female adapter cup.

7

Remove the press by spinning the main handle on the bearing press counterclockwise until it is unscrewed from the threaded rod and disassembling the parts of the press.

Pressing a Bearing in

8

Thread the steel threaded rod into the main handle of the bearing press.

9

Slip the correct size male adapter over the steel threaded rod, ensuring that the larger portion of the male adapter sits against the main handle. Insert the small part of the male adapter through the inner race of the bearing. Align the bearing with the hole in the frame or hub. Slip a female adapter over the other end of the threaded rod, ensuring that the adapter is larger than the diameter of the hole provided for the bearing. Thread the threaded rod into the other handle of the bearing press.

10

Spin the main handle clockwise down the threaded rod until all adapters are tight. Inspect the assembly to ensure that the bearing properly aligns with the hole provided in the frame or hub. Keep winding the main handle clockwise, enabling the male adapter to press on the outer race of the bearing, inserting the bearing in the hole provided.

11

Remove the press by spinning the main handle on the bearing press counterclockwise, until it is unscrewed from the threaded rod and disassembling the rest of the press.

Car engines rely on proper mixtures of air and fuel to perform at peak levels. One component of the engine, the intake manifold, helps with this mixing process, but can have problems with leakage from the intake manifold gasket.

Function

An intake manifold gasket seals the two pieces of the intake manifold assembly together to keep the air and fuel mixture from leaking out. The intake manifold itself distributes this mixture to the engines cylinders for combustion.

Considerations

Intake manifold gasket problems arise as the engine ages. Current day stock gaskets are made from nylon-filled plastic carriers, which can warp from the constant change of air pressure and heat within the intake manifolds body over the course of a vehicles lifespan. If a gasket is failing, there may be visible leakage and an obvious decrease in engine performance.

Prevention and Solution

Many aftermarket intake manifold gaskets are manufactured with aluminized steel carrier bodies to shore up the integrity of the gasket. Keep in mind that the torquing of the manifold assembly around the gasket should be monitored to make sure that the gasket is tightened securely, but is not pinched.

Tappet noises can be the result of a few different problems. Sometimes the problem stems from a worn cam lobe or a bent pushrod. Improper tappet adjustments, as well as physically damaged lifter bodies are also culprits. Many technicians agree that one of the leading causes of valve train noises are sticky valve lifters caused by sludge, resulting from poor maintenance. Cleaning sticky valve lifters is not a difficult thing to do after removing them from the engine.

Instructions

1

Place the lifter on a workbench, with the pushrod seat facing up. Compress the lifter by pressing down on the pushrod seat far enough to remove the retainer ring by prying it out of its seat with a small screwdriver. Use either an old pushrod or a Phillips screwdriver that has had the point of the Phillips head removed and rounded over, to compress the lifter.

2

Slowly release the compression pressure on the lifter to ensure that the pressure of the spring inside the lifter does not cause the lifter to disassemble rapidly, scattering its parts.

3

Clean all of the lifter parts by immersing them in an engine cleaning solvent and scrubbing them with a small, round, stiff-bristled brush. Rinse the solvent off the lifter parts with water, and dry all the parts thoroughly with a shop rag and/or compressed air from a portable air compressor.

4

Lubricate all the parts of the lifter by immersing them in motor oil before reassembling the lifter.

5

Reassemble the lifter, following the instructions in the lifter, or engine manufacturers shop manual.

6

Perform a leak down test with an appropriate leak down tester to ensure that oil does not flow out of the lifter too fast. If oil leaks out of the lifters at too high of a rate, hydraulic pressure on the pushrod and valve will be lost, resulting in poor internal lifter lubrication and decreased engine performance. Follow the instructions from the testers manufacturer, to ensure the performance of proper testing procedures, and that the lifters will perform within manufacturers specifications. Replace any defective lifters with new ones.

7

Repeat the process for all sticky lifters.

In 2004, General Motors recalled 581,394 sport utility vehicles, including certain GMC Envoy and Envoy XL models, due to windshield wiper problems that could reduce driver visibility in inclement weather and increase the risk of a crash.

Identification

Some GMC Envoys were built with defective windshield wipers. These wipers may turn on or off by themselves or stop working altogether. Some drivers may notice that their wiper pumps are continuously running, which can cause a short circuit and corrode the components within the wiper module.

Incidents and Investigation

Prior to the recall, in 2003, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) received 1,179 reports of windshield wiper failures in General Motors vehicles using the "family" design module (p/n 15171306 base, p/n 15171307 for vehicles equipped with rainsense automatic moisture sensitive wipers) that appeared in 2003-2004 model year GMC Envoy and Envoy XL vehicles. The NHTSA opened an investigation that prompted General Motors to recall these Envoys and other affected models in early 2004.

Repairs

Beginning on July 6, 2004, authorized GMC dealers began offering free repairs for Envoy wiper problems as part of the recall. Dealers need to patch the wiper module vent hole and inspect the internal components and electrical system for signs of water damage or corrosion. Contact GMC or the NHTSA with a vehicle identification number (VIN) to determine if your Envoy wiper problems are related to this recall.

The performance difference in single and dual-exhaust systems is solely based on the amount of evacuation produced. Although two pipes can evacuate more exhaust, a single exhaust system with larger evacuation pipes provides the same performance.

General Information

Each cylinder in the engine has a pipe extending from it for exhaust. All pipes are joined into one pipe as an exit point that connects to the systems head pipe. The head pipe joins with the catalytic converter, which converts toxic fumes to reusable air. The catalytic converter then sends the exhaust through the muffler, which acts as a second filter, sending the remaining air through the tail pipe.

Single Exhaust

Single exhaust systems have one catalytic converter, one muffler and one exhaust pipe. They cannot be converted into true dual exhaust systems because smog regulations do not allow catalytic converter changes. When properly configured, a single exhaust system is just as productive as a dual.

Dual Exhaust

Dual exhaust systems are either true-dual or split-dual systems. The true-dual exhaust includes two catalytic converters, two mufflers and two exhaust pipes. The split-dual system has one catalytic converter, one muffler and two exhaust pipes. According to Flow Master Mufflers, dual exhaust systems increase engine power, use gas more efficiently and reduce engine noise.

Turning a brake rotor is a process in which a machinist smoothes the surfaces of the rotor that is contacted by the brake pads. Consumers should understand when a brake rotor can and cannot be turned, as well as the advantages of turning the rotors.

When Rotors Cant Be Turned

Brake rotors should only be turned when the rotor can be smoothed but stay within manufacturers specifications. Most brake rotors will have the minimum thickness measurement stamped into the rotor. The information is also available in service manuals. Rotors with deep cracks should be replaced and not turned.

When Rotors Need Turning

Rotors do not need to be turned on a regular basis, but only when the rotor is showing signs of damage. Brake pads that were not replaced in a timely manner may cut deep grooves into the surface of a rotor. The rotor may also wear unevenly, resulting in a wavy surface. Brake rotors may also corrode, leaving the surface rough. All of these problems can be corrected by turning a rotor.

Advantages of Turned Rotors

The primary reason to turn rotors is to save money, as turning a rotor is less expensive than replacing it. Properly turned rotors will have a smooth surface that will improve braking distance, reduce brake noise and vibration, and increase brake pad life.

Typically, when you turn the output dial on your heater fan controls, more hot air will flow through the heat vents on your Accord. Over time, the motor that regulates how much heat is pushed into the vehicle can fail and no air will come through the vents. When this happens, you can either take your car to a mechanic, who of course will charge you for doing the work inside your dashboard, or you can complete the repair yourself in under an hour. Unlike some other components of your car, the blower motor can not be repaired without completely remanufacturing the unit, theore it is almost always replaced when it fails.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal on your battery. This should be done any time you are working on your vehicle to reduce the risk of electrical shock or short.

2

Locate all of the screws attaching the glovebox door to the glovebox. Remove the screws by turning them counterclockwise. Turn the screws on the glovebox frame counterclockwise once you have removed the door. Pull the glovebox frame from the dashboard.

3

Remove the electrical connector from the blower motor unit. This is a series of wires leading into a plastic connector.

4

Turn all connector bolts on the blower motor counterclockwise to remove the motor from the mounting flange. There are four bolts located at the corners of the blower motor.

5

Pull down on the blower motor to remove it from the heater duct.

6

Reverse the process to install the new heater blower motor into the vehicle.

The timing chain in an internal combustion engine connects the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing chain ensures that the two shafts remain in sync with one another. Beginning in the mid 1980s, metal timing chains were widely replaced by rubberized timing belts or timing gears. An internal combustion engine will not run with a broken timing chain or belt. Timing chains are rarely known to break during an engines typical lifetime.

Under-tensioning

If a timing chain is not properly tensioned, it may develop slack, which can result in chain-slap and premature fatigue. Cracks in the chain may develop, resulting in failure.

Over-tensioning

An overly tight timing chain is placed under excessive stress. The added tension increases friction and heat within the moving parts of the chain that can result in early failure.

Engine Seizure

Situations such as an engine overheating or running out of oil can cause a piston to seize within the cylinder. If this happens while the engine is running at a high rpm, the sudden stop in rotation can cause a timing chain to fail.

There may be many reasons to replace a wiper arm on a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport. Having to replace an entire arm is a rare repair. Having to replace the wiper blade is much more common. However, if a wiper arm becomes damaged, bent or the splined cog of the pivot hole gets stripped (most often caused by wipers being turned on when stuck frozen to ice or snow), the wiper arm will need replacement. While replacing wiper arms is pretty standardized among many makes and models, there are a few subtle differences in the Dodge Dakota.

Instructions

1

Turn the windshield wiper motor to the Off position. If a wiper arm is misaligned, it will not matter at this time.

2

Open the hood to the Dodge Dakota Sport. The pivots at the base of the wiper arms on the Dakota are slightly concealed by the hood when in the closed position.

3

Lift the pivot cover upward from the base of the wiper arm to reveal the wiper arm retaining nut.

4

Remove the retaining nut with a ratchet and 15mm socket by turning it counterclockwise.

5

Pry the wiper arm (caully, but firmly) upward off the pivot stud using the wiper arm removal tool. Move the position of the tool around the base of the blade near the pivot to work the arm off evenly.

6

Remove the wiper blade from the removed wiper arm (if reusing). If not, place the replacement wiper blade onto the new wiper arm before installing it.

7

Place the new wiper arm onto the pivot so the wiper arm is placed in its down/off location. Do not turn the arm to align it once on the splined pivot. If necessary, remove the wiper arm and align it properly.

8

Replace the retaining nut and tighten.

9

Reposition pivot cover and snap it into place.

10

Repeat the same procedure for the opposite wiper arm before closing the hood and testing the new wiper arms.

Changing the brake lights on your 1998 Isuzu Amigo yourself will save you money and time, and it is a relatively simple task you can perform at home. Have all supplies handy before you start to make the job go more smoothly.

Instructions

1

Remove the three screws that hold the brake light cover on your Isuzu Amigo by using the Phillips screwdriver. The first screw is located between the bumper and the cover. The other two screws are located on each side of the cover in the small black areas that resemble vents.

2

Slide the assembly straight back so the bulb is accessible.

3

Unscrew the bulb by turning it counterclockwise.

4

Screw in the new bulb by turning it clockwise. The new bulb should be model number 1157.

5

Screw the three screws back in place with the Phillips screwdriver. Tighten them enough that the light assembly does not leak or rattle around.

Radiators are heat exchangers, meaning that it is their job to take heat from some location and move it somewhere else. The radiators heat comes from the engine, but in order for the radiator to do its job, that heat has to be transferred somewhere.

Heat Exchanger Basics

Where cars are concerned, heat exchangers come in four basic varieties: water-to-air (such as the radiator), air-to-water (some types of intercoolers) and air-to-air (other types of intercoolers). Heat exchangers work by temperature differential: Heat from the substance to be cooled migrates to the cooling medium -- air, in the case of a radiator -- as long as the cooling medium doesnt get saturated by the heat.

Radiator Cooling

If air remains stagnant around the radiator, itll quickly heat up and match the temperature of the fluid inside. This is why radiators need a constant flow of air, either by a fan at low vehicle speeds or by natural air pressure coming in through the grille at highway speeds. Low outside temperatures and high barometric pressures (greater air density) can increase that radiators cooling capacity; high outside temperatures and low pressure (as at high altitude) can reduce the radiators ability to cool the engine.

Key lock inserts use evenly spaced metal "keys" to lock the insert in material. The "keys" bind to the base material when set with a specified tool. Threading a tap into a key locked insert will not fix damaged threads. Correctly removing the damaged insert will keep the threads in the base material intact, reducing the time required to install a new key lock insert.

Instructions

1

Find the size of the key lock threaded insert on a key lock chart. Move across the chart to determine the drill bit size required to remove the insert.

2

Secure the proper drill bit in a drill motor chuck. Cover the drill bit with cutting fluid.

3

Drill into the threaded insert to the depth specified on the key lock chart.

4

Slide a flathead screwdriver into the threaded insert. Align the tip of the screwdriver with one of the key locks. Pry the remaining portion of each key lock toward the center of the insert.

5

Secure a spiral bolt extractor into the drill motor chuck. Set the drill to reverse. Insert the extractor into the opening of the threaded insert. Push the drill toward the threaded insert while pulling the drill trigger to remove the insert from the threaded base material.

The turbocharger is an exhaust-driven supercharger. It has been used to increase power in combustion-type engines for cars, trucks and marine vessels. The turbocharger, or "turbo" for short, is one of the most cost-effective ways to raise power and combustion efficiency. In recent history, the turbo has grown to be a favorite aftermarket addition for car enthusiasts.

History

In 1925, Alfred Bchi was the first to develop an effective and functional exhaust gas turbocharger; he was able to achieve a power increase of around 40 percent. The turbos to follow in his design would mostly be used in large engine applications such as those found in marine vessels. 1938 marked the year of the first turbocharged truck, and it would take nearly half a century more for the turbo to really catch on with the automotive industry. In the 1970s, the turbo started to find its way into commercial diesel engines, race applications and aftermarket additions for cars.

How It Works

A turbocharger has two main parts: the compressor housing and the exhaust housing. These two housings contain small fans connected by a shaft. The exhaust fan housing is connected to the exhaust manifold; as exhaust gas passes through the housing, it spins the fan. The exhaust fan, in turn, drives the compressor fan attached to the intake side of the engine. The compressor fan does exactly that; it compresses the intake air into the engine cylinders for a greater combustion, creating to more power.

Orientations

Turbo kits come in a couple different orientations: single turbo, sequential twin turbo and twin turbo. The single turbo is the most common because it is easily fabricated to fit most applications. On larger engines with six cylinders or more, some opt for a sequential twin turbo setup. This orientation will usually be set up to run in two different stages using only one turbo at a time. V-type engines will sometimes utilize a turbo for each cylinder bank; this is similar to the sequential twin turbo setup, but these turbos will spin simultaneously.

Size

"Bigger is better" is not always a true statement. Small gasoline engines do not emit large enough amounts of exhaust gas to turn large turbochargers; smaller turbo units can be used to achieve higher power. This can even be true for larger gasoline engines, which is why the twin-turbo setup was introduced, as it is easier for an engine to drive two small turbochargers than one large one. Diesel engines are the exception to the rule and can drive almost any size turbo fan.

Benefits

When you are using a turbo application, you can adjust the amount of boost the turbo will generate. Boost is the pressure at which air is compressed into the combustion chambers; when you run higher boost, you achiever higher amounts of power at the turn of a dial. Running high boost can be hazardous to your engine, but if you find a safe boost level, your engine will be running at top efficiency.

Warnings

Overboost is when a turbo is allowed to compress too much air into the combustion chamber and can damage the engine. It is easy to overboost an engine to a dangerous level. It is important to seek guidance when making these adjustments and making any further engine modifications necessary.

For an ignition system to activate an engines spark plugs, a great deal of voltage is required. Engine ignition coils act as a transformer to provide the high voltage needed by a vehicles ignition system. Because engine coils can fail, having information on why this occurs can be beneficial to automobile owners.

Identification

On many vehicle engines, an ignition coil failure affects the engines cylinders. This results in the engine failing to crank or misfiring badly. However, some vehicle engine ignition systems only have one cylinder affected once engine coils have failed.

Heat/Vibration

On the inside of an ignition coil lies an iron core which has two groups of windings around it. The two are known as primary windings and secondary windings. These windings can be damaged due to excessive heat and vibration causing them to short out.

Spark Plugs

Of everything that can cause engine coils to fail, faulty spark plugs or spark plug wires are at the top of the list. Bad spark plugs cause a voltage overload which damages the engine ignition coils. This damage usually begins when voltage reaches about 35,000 volts.

You can remove the heater core from your 1992 Dodge Caravan yourself using tools and supplies that can be purchased from any auto parts store. The heater core is like the radiator, only smaller. Unlike the radiator, which cools the engine, the heater core warms the passenger compartment. It can be found under the dashboard. You will save yourself a lot of money on repair bills if you can do this job yourself.

Instructions

1

Drive the Caravan onto a car ramp. Shut off the engine and allow it to cool. Place a drain pan under the radiator in the front of the vehicle. Loosen the radiator cap by turning it counterclockwise. Open the radiator drain plug by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench. Let the radiators coolant drain into the pan.

2

Get under the vehicle and find the two hoses connected to the firewall. The firewall separates the engine from the driver. Using pliers, loosen the spring clamps and slip them down the hoses to remove the hoses, which connect the heater core to the engine. Watch your face and body because some coolant may leak out as you do this.

3

Plug up the holes with rags.

4

Spread blankets over the entire front interior of the vehicle to protect it from coolant leakage.

5

Use a screwdriver to remove the passenger side kick panel, radio trim panel, foot well and access panel.

6

Remove the dashboard by pulling back on it away from the windshield.

7

Remove the screws from the heater core cover using a screwdriver. This cover can be found behind the glove compartment.

8

Remove the strap holding the heater core in place using a screwdriver. Pull out the heater core, taking care not to spill any coolant.

Plasti-Kote is a rust converter solution. Rust is traditionally removed by scraping and priming. However, Plasti-Kote converts the rust into harmless chemicals and creates a protective film on the surface so there is no need for scraping. Rust converters are commonly used on automobile surfaces. You can apply Plasti-Kote rust remover by following a few techniques.

Instructions

1

Remove loose rust from the affected area with a clean, bristled brush. This will prevent any loose rust from getting sealed into the affected areas when applying the rust remover.

2

Clean the rusted area with mild dishwashing soap and water then let dry. Apply a degreaser. This will prevent surface contaminants from interfering with the reaction of the rust converter.

3

Dip the applicator brush into the solution then apply an even coat to the rusted areas. It will take 24 hours for the rust converter to fully dry.

4

Apply a second coat of Plasti-Kote. Wait another 24 hours for the rust converter to completely dry before painting.

Made of steel, a ball joint acts as a pivot between a car or trucks suspension and its tires. Vehicle manufacturers developed them for specific models, so theyre not interchangeable.

Function

Ball joints support the weight of the truck and, in some cases, also help set its alignment. Located on the front end of the truck, a ball joint stays inside a steel casing to prevent dirt and water from reaching it.

Types

Some trucks contain an upper and lower ball joint. Others use a MacPherson strut system, which has a lower ball joint and an upper strut bearing. With this system, the upper strut bearing acts as the pivot, making an upper ball joint unnecessary.

Maintenance

When inspecting a trucks suspension, the owner or mechanic should also check the ball joints. If the truck doesnt have its original joints, they will require lubrication regularly, as the original seal is broken. Worn out joints can cause uneven wear on tires and steering problems.

The anti-lock brake system (ABS) of the 1994 Acura Integra is a system that runs throughout the engine compartment and includes warning and indicator lights in the dashboard gauges. The main computer, or ABS module, is mounted to the passenger side fender wall behind the front headlight in the engine compartment. The system also runs to the master brake cylinder and to each of the Integra wheels.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the 1994 Acuara Integra and move over to the passenger side of the engine compartment.

2

Look at the fender wall on the passenger side of the engine, just behind the front headlight.

3

Locate the ABS module that is mounted to the fender wall. The ABS module is a metal box about 6 by 8 inches and about an inch thick.

Blockages in your fuel system can be exacerbated by old gasoline, but are rarely caused by old fuel alone. If your vehicle has a blockage in its fuel system, you may have to replace or repair several different components, including the fuel pump, fuel lines or the fuel tank to completely remedy the problem. In newer vehicles, your fuel injectors may also be damaged by a combination of bad gas and blockages.

Old Gasoline

Gasoline separates over time, especially gasoline that contains ethanol. The more ethanol the fuel contains, the more likely it is to separate. While separated gas can cause its own unique blend of problems, mostly due to water and ethanol going through the fuel system without the gasoline component of the mixture due to fuel separation, old gasoline in and of itself does not have anything in it that can create a blockage in your fuel system. Old gasoline can, however, contribute to blockages in your fuel system.

Fuel System Blockage

Blockages in your fuel system are caused by particles of dirt, dust and miscellaneous debris mixing with your gasoline and traveling through your fuel system. These particles will eventually come to an area of your fuel system where they can no longer flow through and will either create a blockage on their own or they can build up and collect over time to create a blockage.

Bad Fuel and Blockages

When fuel sits in your gas tank for long periods of time, dirt and debris that are in the fuel itself will mix with existing dirt, rust and debris in the gas tank. The older your vehicle is, the more likely it is to have contaminants built up in the fuel tank. When gas sits in the tank for several weeks or months, these substances will sink to the bottom of the tank. When you attempt to drive the vehicle, this layer of trash will get sucked up into your fuel pump and create blockages in your fuel system. The longer gasoline sits, the more likely your vehicle is to experience a blockage when you attempt to start it.

Preventing Blockages

If you know your vehicle is going to be sitting for any length of time, try to drive it so that there is very, very little gas left in the tank before you park it for the long term. When you go to drive a vehicle that has had gas sitting in the tank, put a bottle of fuel stabilizer in and add as much new gas as possible to minimize the amount of bad, separated gasoline that reaches your engine. If your vehicle has been sitting for several months or longer with a lot of bad gas in the tank, you may want to have your mechanic remove the bad gas from the tank manually by either dropping the tank or siphoning the fuel out.

It is not uncommon for a older car to begin having some blue smoke occasionally come out of the exhaust system. If the color is truly blue, then odds are the problem is oil is being burned in the engine and you have a leak. Even a small amount of oil can create blue exhaust.

Higher Weight Oil

While this is only a quick fix, using a heavier weight oil may slow or temporarily stop the leak and eliminate the blue smoke. The heavier weight oil is thicker and has less of a chance of leaking if the hole is small. Unfortunately, if you have a leak, then it will only get worse over time.

Car Repair

Oil is not supposed to be burned along with the fuel mixture and there are several gaskets that are used to prevent this from happening. As the car gets older, these gaskets can wear down and cause leaks, which creates the blue smoke. Blue smoke, along with rough idling and a loss of power, could indicate a more serious problem of a cracked head gasket and that could mean extensive repair work to the engine.

Oil Stop Leak

If the smoke is causes by a gasket leak, then there are oil additives developed to help stop the leak. The additive is added directly to the oil; when it goes through the system along with the oil, it is supposed to stop the leak at least temporarily and abate the blue smoke.

The 2001 Chrysler Town & Country experienced a slight generational redesign that changed the procedure on how to repair and replace side mirrors from its older versions. In fact, it simplified the procedure, making the entire task able to be performed from the outside. Most cars require getting to the side mirror mounting hardware from inside the door panel or a small trim sail covering the interior side of the side mirror.

Instructions

1

Ensure the engine is off and the keys are not in the ignition. Apply the parking brake.

2

Wedge the small screwdriver on the upper point of the triangular sail of the mirror. Gently pry the plastic sail outward and then unsnap it from the mirror.

3

Open the door wide to locate the bottom retaining screw of the mirror. It is hidden by the door frame (at the bottom of the mirror housing) when the door is closed. Remove the screw with the T27 Torx-head screwdriver. Close the door.

4

Remove the other two screws (visible from the removal of the trim sail). Support the mirror with one hand when removing the last screw so it does not fall against the door or fender and scratch the paint.

5

Remove the manual mirror or for the powered mirror, gently pull the wire harness up through the access hole until the plug connection can be accessed. Press the locking clip on the harness to disconnect the mirrors wire from the wire harness plug.

6

Reverse the procedure to reinstall the replacement mirror, powered or manual respectively. Plug the powered mirror harness in first and feed it back through the access hole. Replace the upper retaining screws of the mirror first and open the door again to replace the bottom screw. Snap the trim sail back on to complete the job.

The Chevrolet Uplander is a minivan introduced in 2005 as a replacement for the Venture and Astro. As with any vehicle, the Uplanders headlights provide very important safety components to the vehicle. If you drive your Chevy Uplander with faulty headlights, your road division can be severely diminished and other vehicles will have difficulty seeing you on the road. The headlamp replacement process takes a few minutes and requires a screwdriver and replacement bulb.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. Open and secure the hood of the Uplander and put on the clean gloves.

2

Remove the headlamp retainer pin by rotating it toward the headlamp assembly and pulling it out. Use the screwdriver to remove the screw from the top of the headlamp assembly.

3

Pull the assembly out of the vehicle and disconnect the socket wiring harness connector from the rear of the assembly.

4

Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.

5

Disconnect the bulb socket wiring harness from the old bulb by pulling it off. Place the wiring harness onto the replacement bulb.

6

Reinstall and secure the bulb socket by inserting it into the bulb assembly and rotating it clockwise.

7

Reconnect the socket wiring harness connector to the rear of the assembly and place it back into the Uplander.

8

Reattach the screw on top of the headlamp assembly and reattach the retainer pin. Close the hood.

Cylinders are cut from the engine block to house the pistons and handle rapid piston movement. Ford offers 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines of different sizes, cylinder numbering and firing order. Variations on traditional cylinder-numbering occur on front-wheel drive engines.

V8 And V6 Numbering

All Ford engines follow the same cylinder numbering system. While facing the front of a V8, starting on your left, the cylinder closest to the fan is number 1. cylinders 2, 3 and 4 follow in order. On the right side, cylinder 5 is closest to the fan and the remainder follow in order. V6 engines follow the same pattern, with only 6 cylinders.

Inline 6 and 4-Cylinder Numbering

On both inline (straight) 6-cylinder and 4-cylinder engines, when looking at the engine from the front, the cylinder closest to the fan is cylinder 1, with the remaining following in order towards the rear of the engine..

Front-Wheel Drive Numbering

Front-wheel drive engines have a side-to-side engine orientation, which changes the cylinder locations. On front-wheel drive V8s, while looking at the engine from the front, the row of cylinders nearest the windshield begin with cylinder one to the left and follow in order to the right. Cylinder 5 is on the front left-hand side, with 6, 7 and 8 going towards the right. V6 engines follow the same pattern. Ford 4-cylinder front-wheel drive engines start with cylinder 1 on the far left when facing the engine.

When a vehicle engine is reluctant to start, it often means that the spark plugs need changing. Like many automotive components, spark plugs dont last forever. A common malfunction is a wet spark plug. According to AA1Car.com, this occurs when the spark plug fails to fire, or fouls out. This can be caused by a number of variables, such as engine flooding, or excessive moisture build up.

Engine Flooding

Failed vehicle starting attempts eventually lead to wet spark plugs, according to E3 Spark Plugs. This happens when drivers attempt to start their vehicles multiple times without success. This can lead to engine flooding, which in turn can soak the plugs so theyre unable to form any kind of spark to start the engine. This often happens in cold weather conditions, when spark plugs that are previously worn or fouled require a higher voltage to ignite the engine. In this case, the best thing a driver can do is either wait for the plugs to dry, or remove the plugs and clean them off.

Injector Leaks

Wet fouling is less common on modern fuel-injected engines, but can happen due to a number of mechanical failures, states AA1Car.com. One example is a leaking cold start injector. This would lead to the creation of a rich start up mixture in the engine compartment that would cause the plugs to foul.

Worn Piston Rings

In older vehicle engines, worn piston rings or excessive cylinder wear often lead to wet fouling, states Mopar Magazine. This could result in the release of excess oil or gasoline into the engine compartment, which could prevent a spark from forming during an ignition attempt. Wet-fouled spark plugs can be cleaned and re-installed to work effectively.

Deltron 2000 is a basecoat resin technology created to deliver exact color matches on domestic and foreign vehicles. This paint works best as a metallic finish and it sprays on thin. Deltron 2000 gives vehicles a smooth and even coat. Applying Deltron 2000 to a vehicle requires certain tools and expertise. Deltron 2000 provides a clear coat to give your vehicle a glossy finish. Once applied, your vehicle can look brand new.

Instructions

1

Remove the larger parts from the vehicle. You can remove the bumpers on the front and the back of the car. Bumpers are attached with heavy bolts and screws and you can use a heavy-duty screwdriver and wrench to remove the bumper. You can also remove the door handles and side mirrors with a screwdriver. Door handles and mirrors are secured by screws, nuts and bolts that are easily removed.

2

Remove the original paint with an electric sander and a 36- or 80-grit sanding disc. Move the sander in a circular motion to quickly remove the paint.

3

Cover any areas that you dont want to paint. Use masking tape or painters tape to conceal these areas. You can also use masking paper to conceal these areas.

4

Mix the Deltron 2000 paint as specified by the manufacturer. After mixing, pour the paint into the large cup attached to a spray gun. Deltron 2000s instructions will specify the amount of paint that should be poured into the container.

5

Paint the car with a spray gun. Press the trigger down and move the spray gun in a side-by-side motion, releasing the trigger at the end of each stroke. You can apply numerous coats, based on the color you desire. If you want to a darker color, apply more coats of Deltron 2000. If you would like a lighter color, apply fewer coats.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) exhaust tips (sometimes erred to as tailpipe extenders) are available for some Volvo models. Most Volvo OEM tips are chrome plated, although some manufacturers use polished stainless steel. These tips are available from Volvo dealers, online retailers and auto parts stores.

Dual Tips

Some Volvos come with dual exhaust pipes. For models such as the XC90, a conjoined dual tip is used to finish the exhaust pipes. These tips are made of stainless steel and are usually chrome plated. To install, you simply clamp the tips onto your exhaust pipes by tightening a bolt. These tips add a sporty look to the vehicle and retail for around $150, as of 2010.

Single Bore Tips

If your Volvo has only one tailpipe, it is easier to choose a tip that will fit. Measure the width of your tailpipe at its widest point. This diameter should be the same as the inlet diameter of your selected exhaust tip. Choose an exhaust tip that compliments the style and look of the vehicle. Most tips are made from polished stainless steel, although some are chrome plated steel. Stainless steel tips are more durable and long lasting than chrome tips.

Turn Down Exhaust

Some later model Volvos have exhaust pipes that turn down toward the road. Installing an OEM exhaust tip is more difficult on these vehicles. Cut the downward curves of the tailpipe with a saw to install the tips on the straight end of the pipe. If you are uncertain of what you are doing, pay a professional to install these tips for you. You do not want to risk ruining your muffler or exhaust system by cutting the tailpipe in the incorrect place.

The check engine light on your Jeep will illuminate on the instrument panel when the on-board diagnostics computer receives an error code from a sensor, telling you that something is not working correctly on the vehicle. Although this light is annoying, make sure you take your vehicle to a mechanic to have the trouble code read and the problem repaired before you shut off the light. Once the problem has been fixed, then it will only take you a few minutes at home to reset the light.

Instructions

1

Find the port under the drivers dashboard that fits the code scanner connector. Plug the scanner into the port, and turn the key in the ignition to the "On" position but dont let the engine start. This will cause the scanner to turn on.

2

Use the arrow keys on the scanner to select "Reset" or "Erase." The check engine light will turn off on the instrument panel.

3

Unplug the scanner, and turn off the vehicle. Wait 10 seconds then turn the engine on. Verify that the check engine light is still off.

Welding hard steel, such as 4140 steel, is a complicated process that involves heating levels that are unusual to achieve in a home workshop. However, in the right shop, it is possible. You will need a good oven and good welding skills to accomplish this task, but as long as you have the right facilities, it will not be a complicated procedure. AISI ers to the American Iron and Steel Institute and its industry-accepted steel standards; AISI 4140 is a versatile alloy steel used in many industrial applications, including plating and shafts, and is easily weldable with traditional methods.

Instructions

1

Heat the damaged steel to about 1,250 degrees Fahrenheit.

2

Match weld material to 4140 metal, including a minimum of 1.25 percent manganese, 1.75 percent nickel, 0.3 percent chromium and 0.25 percent molybdemum. If repairing a crack, this filler metal should be lower in carbon than AISI 4140, which has up to 40 percent carbon content, to prevent development of a brittle layer called martensite and possible future cracks.

3

Use softer filler metal in building up a shaft for re-machining, followed by a harder layer. This buffer layer should be very low in carbon content to prevent carbon from leaching into the hard-facing layer, one of several specialized alloys, causing it to crack quickly. The hard-facing layer should be thin, as thicker layers will, counterintuitively, fail faster than thinner layers. Preheating, as mentioned above, is vital to prevent distortion and failure of the hard facing, which will lead to rapid erosion of the buffer layer.

4

Cool the steel very gradually by placing an insulated welding blanket over the bar or by burying it in sand. Rapid cooling will cause the layers to distort and spoil the job. The piece should not cool more than 150 degrees Fahrenheit per hour; for large parts, this may require a temperature-controlled furnace to cool the part precisely.

You can remove the exhaust system from your Jeep Grand Cherokee yourself. The exhaust system is a pipe that allows the air from the engine to exit out the rear of the vehicle. The air passes through a catalytic converter to eliminate the harmful byproducts of the engine. It also passes through the muffler, which eliminates engine noise. The exhaust may need to be removed for a variety of reasons, and you can complete the process in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Locate the exhaust under the vehicle along the passengers side.

2

Loosen and remove the bolts on the exhaust flange directly behind the muffler with a ratchet and socket. The muffler is the round section that is mounted in-line with the exhaust pipe.

3

Unscrew the bolts on the flange at the muffler and the down-pipe with the ratchet and socket.

4

Remove the bolts that secure the down-pipe to the headers with the ratchet and socket. The headers branch apart to attach to each cylinder on the engine block.

5

Lubricate the stock rubber isolators with lubricating fluid.

6

Remove the exhaust system by pulling the metal bars from the stock rubber isolators. Continue until the tailpipe, muffler, catalytic converter and down-pipe have been removed.

Shifting through gears is a basic function for vehicles as they gain speed. Some cars, such as Hondas, are outfitted with a hydraulic clutch system that needs proper maintenance to avoid problematic shifting.

Function

A Honda hydraulic clutch is controlled by pressurized fluids for energy transfer between the engine and the transmission, resulting in more speed to the cars wheels. This type of clutch is used in manual transmission Hondas.

Considerations

If problems arise, such as a slipping or clicking within the hydraulic clutch system, verify the transmission fluid is at the proper level in the reservoir located near the rear of the engine. If the fluid is low, check for leaks within the lines since this can lower functionality from lack of hydraulic pressure.

Significance

If there is no leak and the hydraulic clutch is still malfunctioning, it may be necessary to replace the clutch. Over time, the constant squeezing of the clutch disc, when the clutch is engaged, can become worn.

The BMW K 1100 LT motorcycle was manufactured in the early 90s by the German automobile company BMW. Like a car, this motorcycle required a battery to provide electricity to start the engine. Although not recommended by the manufacturer, the battery of the BMW K 1100 LT can be jumped using a car should the battery die. When jumping the battery, extreme care should be exercised as incorrectly jumping the battery could damage the motorcycles electrical system.

Instructions

1

Position the motorcycle near the front end of the car. Ensure that the vehicle and the motorcycle are not touching in any way. Turn off both the vehicle and the motorcycle, and remove the keys from the ignition.

2

Open the hood of the vehicle and remove the seat of the BMW K 1100 LT to expose the batteries.

3

Connect the jumper cable with the red handle to the positive terminal on the vehicles battery. Connect the other red jumper cable to the positive terminal on the motorcycles battery. Take great care to ensure that the positive terminal does not touch any other metal on the motorcycle.

4

Connect the other jumper cable to the negative terminal on the vehicles battery. Hook the other end of the jumper cable to a metal area of the motorcycle, such as the rear axle nut. Do not mistake chrome for metal.

5

Turn on the motorcycle, but do not turn on the vehicle as doing so could destroy the motorcycles electrical system. Remove the jumper cables in the reverse order that they were installed.

Exhaust manifolds work in very punishing conditions. They conduct exhaust gasses with core temperatures that top 1,000 degrees F from the engine to the exhaust pipes. Many stock and aftermarket manifolds enhance engine performance by improving scavenging and flow dynamics of the exhaust gasses as they exit the engine head. Most manifolds are made of cast iron and cannot be welded. Any repairs involving additional metal must be done by brazing with an oxy-acetylene torch and iron brazing rods.

Instructions

Repairing the Manifold

1

Clean the manifold and the broken off flange well. Be certain the parts are free of rust and carbon. Nest the flange back into position to make sure it will mate properly and be in the original plane. Clamp the broken flange with Vise-Grips at the edge furthest from the joint.

2

Heat the joint with a torch while holding the flange in place. Apply heat until the native metal begins to melt and puddle. Begin feeding the iron brazing rod into the puddle as the puddle begins to form. Move the torch focal point and the rod along the joint with a steady and slow motion, constantly melting the native metal and replacing it with the rod material. Braze as much as possible before stopping to flip the manifold to can gain access to the other side. Continue this process until the entire joint has been brazed.

3

Cool the repaired area slowly. Hold the torch back a little from the actual brazing distance and wash the flame over the repair and the surrounding area. Increase the distance of the torch gradually as the general area heats up and the repair cools, slowly pulling it back to apply less and less heat to the area while washing over a slowly-increasing area. This will slowly cool the manifold in a consistent pattern to avoid causing new stress cracks due to the thermo-dynamic expansion rate of the manifold material.

4

Begin removing the torch, then replace it in ever-increasing intervals once the torch has been worked back to about 18 inches from the area and the metal has lost all glow and has dropped in temperature so that the heat may be removed entirely.

5

File away any protruding brazing material from the mating face of the manifold. Hold the file flat and in plane with the side of the flange that did not break off. Judge the flatness of the repaired piece with the unbroken side. Remove material from the repaired flange if necessary to achieve flatness.

Since its founding in the 1930s, Japans Toyota Motor Corporation has produced a variety of motor vehicle engines for trucks and cars in its own line and for other manufacturers.

Efficient System

Not surprisingly, the prolific Toyota Motor Corporation uses one of the most efficient engine identification systems among automobile manufacturers. The companys method incorporates each vehicles vehicle identification number, or VIN, making it nearly impossible to purchase the wrong engine for a given model.

Finding Your VIN

Your Toyota VIN is a combination of 17 numbers and letters. You can find it in the following places: on your insurance card; on your vehicle registration; on the "VIN plate" located on the lower dashboard closest to the closest to the windshield on the drivers side; and printed on the certificate label located on the drivers side door jamb.

Identification

In looking at the VIN, note the first numeric characters, which specify the engine blocks generation. The next one or two letters specify the engine family. The suffix, which is separated by a dash, specifies the features of the engine. For example, "C" indicates "emissions control system" while "E" indicates "electronic fuel injection."

If your engine block develops a crack, it is possible to weld it. However, experts recommend that if you have a crack in your engine block, you should choose a different method of repair, such as metal stitching, because deep cracks can buckle quickly and the welding repair is only a temporary fix. However, if you have no other option, then you can easily weld a crack as a short-term repair.

Instructions

1

Evaluate the crack. If its a complete crack, then youre much better off not welding it and using another method to repair the engine block or even just getting an entirely new engine block. If the engine block has a relatively shallow crack or if it has a hole or a divot, then welding would be a more appropriate solution.

2

Prepare the block for welding. Make sure that all components that could be damaged by the heat from the torch are out of the way and that the engine block is supported properly with cinderblocks. Use clamps or vises to force the two pieces together so that there is a definite seam for you to weld. Make sure that the damaged parts are squeezed together as much as possible before you begin.

3

Put on a welders apron, welders gloves and a welding mask. Turn on the torch. Move from one side of the damaged engine block to the other and make a caul seam that seals the crack or divot. Make sure that the parts being welded are flat and that gravity wont make the molten metal drip before it hardens again.

If your van runs out of gas, this can create more problems than just not being able to move at the moment. Once you ill the tank, you still may have problems restarting the engine. Any fuel system that runs too low on gas can experience problems with the fuel pump and fuel pressure. You might be able to restart the car if you can re-pressurize the system, but its possible that you will need a new pump altogether.

Instructions

Refilling and Re-pressurizing

1

Fill the fuel tank with unleaded gasoline from an approved gas can. Use the largest amount of fuel you can transport to the van.

2

Turn the ignition key to the start position for about two seconds, then tun it back to the off position for five more seconds. Repeat this five to 10 times to re-pressurize the fuel system.

3

Try starting the car again. If it wont start at this point, you will likely need to replace a burned-out fuel pump.

4

Siphon out the fuel with a never-used vacuum pump and store it in the gas can, if you need to change the pump, then disconnect the negative battery cable.

Fuel Pump

5

Raise the van on its rear end and support it with jack stands, blocking the front wheels with heavy blocks. Raise the floor jack or a transmission jack under the tank.

6

Disconnect the electrical connectors on the fuel tank and then unclip the lower shield on the tanks right side to reveal the fuel line fittings. Loosen and disconnect the fittings with a screwdriver, then disconnect the filler neck from the tank.

7

Unbolt and remove the straps for the tank and lower it down with the jack, disconnecting the fuel pump lead.

8

Tap and loosen the locking ring with a brass punch and hammer until the tangs and cut outs line up. Pull the pump assembly out of the tank.

9

Insert the new pump assembly into the tank, making sure it is lined up in the same position as the old one was, then turn/tap the lock ring into place.

10

Reconnect all the lines and electrical connectors to the fuel pump flange, raise the tank into position and bolt the tank into place.

11

Refill the tank and perform the pressurization steps as described in Section 1.

The Ford Expedition is a full-sized SUV produced by Ford as a replacement for the Bronco. The 99 Ford Expedition is a part of the vehicles first design generation. The heater core is located behind the dash board on the passengers side. While the heater core is being replaced it is a good idea to check the temperature blend door as well. Replacing the heater core is an involved project that requires most of a day.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a level surface and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Prop the hood open with the hood support.

2

Disconnect the bulkhead connectors at the back of the engine compartment and push them into the vehicle.

3

Pull down on the steering column panel and remove it. Remove the five bolts under the steering column panel with a socket wrench. There are two on both sides and one in the middle at the bottom.

4

Remove the bolts along the top of the dash, just under the windshield. Remove the bolts under the carpet, along the back of the passengers foot well.

5

Open the glove box and pull out enough that the clips pop free and the glove box stays open. Remove the two bolts holding the passenger airbag. Pull off the oval cover above the glove box and remove the bolt underneath. Remove the passenger airbag.

6

From outside, disconnect the evaporator case sample tub and the blower motor. These can be reached from the engine compartment, just in front of the passenger side door.

7

Reach inside the passenger fender well and disconnect the antenna lead. Push it through the firewall.

8

Remove the bolt in the rear corner of the passenger foot well. Grab the dash board on both sides and pull forward. This will usually require two people. Pull the dash board forward far enough to allow access to the heater core.

9

Remove the 14 bolts around the plentum case. Open the case and remove the two bolts that secure the heater core in place. Disconnect the tubes attached to the heater core with the quick disconnects. Remove the heater core from the vehicle.

10

Put the new heater core in the SUV and tighten the mounting bolts. Attach the hoses and push them on until the clamps snap closed. Close the plentum case and tighten all of the bolts.

11

Reassemble the dash board in the reverse order it was disassembled. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Close the hood.

Yamaha introduced the Road Star to compete for cruiser market share with Harley-Davidson. Harley discovered long ago that the biggest profits in the business were in accessories, after sales. Saddlebags are so basic to motorcycling that it might be reasonable to make them standard equipment on most cruisers, yet they are not standard on most Harleys. Yamaha modeled their after-sale marketing on Harleys, so people who buy a Road Stars also have to buy bags. Road Star owners can get the same style bags that Harley owners can. The bags are not interchangeable between the two brands, but the installation is basically the same between Road Stars and Harley Softails.

Instructions

1

Identify the fender trim on both sides of your rear fender. Put your hand inside the rear fender and feel for rear fender trim nuts. Not all Road Stars have nuts.

2

Lay out and inspect all the parts and hardware that came with your saddlebags. Read the instructions. Some saddlebags come with frames that you bolt to the fenders. You bolt the bags to these frames. Some bags come with brackets that replace the fender trim. Other bags bolt directly to the rear fender.

3

Working on one side at a time, unbolt the rear fender trim with a ratchet or box wrench and remove it. If the trim is attached with both bolts and nuts, use a box wrench to immobilize the nut inside the fender. Most Road Stars use hex-head bolts to attach the fender trim, so use a hex wrench to remove this bolt. Replace the fender trim with any frames or brackets included with the saddlebags. All motorcycles vibrate, so be sure to use maximum strength thread locker on all of the bolts.

4

Bolt, clip or fasten the saddlebag to the fender, frame or mounting bracket. Repeat on the other side.

There are three types of circuit breakers used in the automotive industry. The three types adhere to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J553 standard. This standard determines the operating conditions and the manufacturing conditions of the circuit breakers. Each type can be made for different pin types and different amps, depending on the exact application of the breaker.

Type 1

Type 1 automotive circuit breakers cycle on and off until the cause of the break is eliminated. This application can be hazardous if the goal of the breaker is to cut power totally to prevent damage or disruption to the circuit. Type 1 circuit breakers for automotive applications are available from a number of sources and insert types. Additionally, Type 1 circuit breakers are made for a variety of different amps.

Type 2

Type 2 circuit breakers switch off when they sense an overload and remain off. When the overload condition is removed, the circuit turns back on automatically. This type of breaker protects the circuit from overload and eliminates the need for a person to reset the breaker. Type 2 breakers are available with different inserts and amps for different automotive applications.

Type 3

The last type of automotive circuit breaker requires a person to turn it back on. These breakers switch off when they sense an overload, like the Type 2 breakers, but require a person to press a reset button to switch them back on. Type 3 breakers are available for between 10 and 30 amps for a variety of automotive applications.

Harley-Davidson does not sell a trunk, or Tour-Pak, for any Dyna. Harley Tour-Paks and other trunks can be modified to fit any Dyna with a flat luggage rack that is at least 8 inches wide by 8 inches long. Unfortunately, the standard luggage rack for an FXDWG measures about 9 inches by 5 inches and is curved to accent the Wide Glides bobtail rear fender. The well known aftermarket supplier, Corbin Motorcycle Seats, does sell a 55-liter trunk that mounts on both Dyna Super Glides and Wide glides. It has two liters less volume than a Harley Chopped Tour-Pak and about 20 liters less than Harleys King Tour-Pak. The Corbin "Streamliner Trunkbox" is a simple mount.

Instructions

1

Protect your rear fender finish with shop rags before you begin installing the Trunkbox mount.

2

Immobilize the right rear fender rail hex nut inside your rear fender with a box wrench. Loosen and remove the rear fender rail bolt with a socket wrench and socket.

3

Repeat for the right front rear fender rail nuts and bolt. Remove the left fender rail nuts and bolts the same way you removed the hardware on the right side of the bike. Clean and save all hardware.

4

Apply thread locker to each fender rail bolt. Arrange each half of the Trunkbox mount so the two holes in the sides of each half of the adapter bracket align with the fender rail bolt holes.

5

Reinstall all fender rail nuts, washers and bolts through the holes in the Trunkbox adapter bracket halves. Tighten all fasteners wrench tight. Remove rags.

6

Arrange the trunk so the six holes in the trunk align with the six holes on the tops of the two adapter bracket halves. Apply thread locker to the threads of the button head mounting screws included with the trunk and mounting kit.

7

Push each of the button head mounting screws through the holes in the adapter brackets and the trunk so the button side is down. Fasten each screw to the trunk with the nuts and washers included with the kit using small box wrenches.

Having a car is an essential for most people, and for disabled people it can be a lifeline to independent living. Depending on the nature of their disability, disabled people might not be able to walk or use public transport, but still be able to drive a car. Charities recognize this, and some repair vehicles for the disabled at reduced rates or free.

Free Charity Cars

Free Charity Cars takes donations of unwanted cars, and repairs and services them. The cars are then given to people in need, including those with disabilities. The program runs on an application system. Anyone wanting to receive a free car must create a profile and fill out an application that tells their story. Once a donated car becomes available in a particular area, the charitys staff reviews local applications and decides who should receive the car. The charity also helps people who have a car but need assistance with repairs and maintenance.

Opportunity Cars

Opportunity Cars is a group of programs dedicated to providing free vehicles, loans for vehicles and help with repair costs for those in need. It accepts donated cars and repairs them before giving away the vehicles. The focus is on helping those considered the working poor, which includes many disabled people. Opportunity Cars provides help through charities and nonprofits across the U.S., and also through government agencies. To apply for a car or help with repairs, applicants must contact their local program.

Cars4Christmas

Cars4Christmas is a charity that provides transportation for those in need, including disabled people. The group accepts donated cars, then repairs and services them before giving them to people who need transportation but cant afford to pay for it. The group also provides grants to help with repairs for people who need help paying for them.

Local Charities

Many local groups also repair cars for the disabled, including church groups, community organizations and auto repair shops that donate some of their services to charity. In Pocatello, Idaho, for example, church volunteers who are experienced in car repair provide free labor for those who cant afford to fix their cars. In Arizona, a group of auto repair shops known as the Auto Repair Good Guys Foundation supplies free labor. In Wisconsin, Wheels to Work donates cars and offers free repairs to those in need, using local automotive technology students to supply the labor.

Catalytic converters use various types of metals to scrub pollutants from a vehicles exhaust before it leaves the tail pipe. Generally, catalytic converters will last the life of a Mercedes 560SL, but some factors, such as using unleaded gasoline or too many fuel additives, can contribute to the premature failure of the catalytic converter.

Loss of Power

A stopped up catalytic converter will cause a sudden loss of power in a Mercedes 560SL. Sometimes catalytic converters break down slowly over time, causing a gradual loss in power, which may not be noticeable to some drivers. If your Mercedes will not accelerate, even if you stomp on the accelerator pedal, have a mechanic take a look at the catalytic converter to see if it is stopped up. If this is the case, the catalytic converter will need to be replaced.

Drop in Fuel Economy

Measure the gas mileage your car is getting, especially since a sudden drop in fuel economy can indicate mechanical problems. A stopped up catalytic converter will cause a significant drop in fuel economy, more than two or three miles per gallon difference.

Engine Problems

A clogged catalytic converter will also cause operating problems with your Mercedes engine. Besides the loss in power, a stopped up catalytic converter can inhibit how quickly a vehicle travels, making it top out at a low speed like an electronic speed governor. The clogged catalytic converter will cause increased back pressure in the exhaust system, which will choke the engine as exhaust gases cannot leave as quickly as they should. If your car runs for a few minutes then stalls out, if you can hear a whistling sound or your cars engine seems to be struggling during acceleration, take a look at the catalytic converter as the potential cause.

Smell

If your 560SLs tailpipe is spewing out a smell similar to rotting eggs, there is a high chance that the catalytic converter is partially clogged. The broken down elements of the catalytic converter emit this rancid smell, which is very noticeable.

Mercedes cars are known for their high quality and impressive styling. However, as with any automobile, a mercedes will from time to time require maintenance and repairs. While bringing your Mercedes to the garage can be costly, there are some repairs that you can do right at home. If you notice a fog light is malfunctioning, try fixing it yourself. A broken fog light only has two possible causes, a loose wire or a burned out bulb, making the repair one even a novice can do.

Instructions

1

Park your Mercedes on a stretch of flat level ground and engage the parking brake. Turn the engine off and let it cool for about 20 minutes.

2

Crawl under the front end of the automobile and go the the area directly behind the malfunctioning fog light. Remove the dust cover to gain access to the fog light assembly. Use a Flathead screwdriver to pry off the rubber cover and lay it aside.

3

Check the wiring harness. If the Mercedes has been in a minor fender bender there is a possibility that the wires could have come lose. The plug should snap into the fog light assembly tightly. If it has come lose snap it back in and then test the fog lights. If it still doesnt work, completely unplug the harness to access the bulb.

4

Give the bulb a quarter turn to the left to remove it. Insert the replacement bulb. Reassemble the fog light by reversing the above steps.

When doing car repairs on engines, a chain hoist is often needed. It allows you to take the engine out of the car and suspend it, so you can easily access its inner parts. A chain hoist also makes it easier to lift heavier items in general. It can be difficult to mount a chain hoist in a garage or other building because it requires not only knowledge of how to put it up, but also an understanding of building structural integrity.

Instructions

1

Examine the area you want to use as the main support for the chain hoist. This should be a major support for the building as a whole and ideally a metal girder or support. It has to be able to hold several hundred pounds without putting it under too much stress. The last thing you want is for the beam to break or bend while working on the engine.

2

Place a ladder under the support beam for the hoist and throw the lifting sling over the beam. This is what will help lift the hoist to the proper height. Take out the shackle bolt and run it through the loops from the lifting sling and place back in the shackle.

3

Rest the eye loops of the sling on the shackle bolt by rotating the shackle and open the safety lock on the hoist hook located near the chain hoist. This allows for the movement of the chain into its proper position and height.

4

Open the hook of the hoist and slide it into the shackle and close the safety lock, so the chain will securely hang from the shackle. If the lock is not closed, the chain can slip when it lifts a load, causing injury. The hoist is now securely mounted to its main support and ready to be used.

Older cars often used a separate key for the trunk than the one used for the ignition. Because of this, you could find yourself in a position where you need to open an old car trunk without the key. Besides prying the lid open or drilling out the lock, which are both destructive methods, it is possible to get into the truck and pop the lock from the inside. This method causes less damage to the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Lift the release lever for the rear seat. Many older vehicles used "hatched" seats to allow you to lower the back of the rear seat onto the lower half of the rear seat to add storage space. If the seat does not lower on a hatch, remove the seat back from the vehicle by pulling on it. Seats attach to the trunk frame with clips. By pulling on the seat, you remove the clips that hold the seat to the frame. Behind the seat back is an access panel to the trunk.

2

Crawl into the trunk from inside the car. Use a flashlight so you can see the trunk lock.

3

Pull the trunk lock release lever. Most vehicles have a lever that hangs from the lock that a person can pull if for some reason they get locked inside of the trunk. If the trunk does not have a release lever hanging from it, look for the side of the lock that looks like a half-moon. Pull the half -moon away from the lock housing to release the lock.

There are a number of different fluids that are used in a General Motors or Chevrolet 6.5-liter diesel engine to keep it running smoothly and operating properly. Without the proper fluids, the trucks engine can be damaged by heat and friction that are generated as the engine runs. It is important to use the proper fluids in your diesel truck and keep the right amount of fluids in the engine at all times.

Oil

Engine oil is required for all gasoline and diesel engines. Oil provides the lubrication necessary to minimize friction between internal components. The 2011 Chevrolet Diesel Truck owners manual insert states that Chevrolet diesel engines need to use engine oil that is designated as API CJ-4 and has a viscosity of SAE 15W-40, unless you are in extremely cold temperatures, where SAE 5W-40 can be used to improve cold starting. Chevrolet states that you should not use 10W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 oils in your 6.5 diesel engine. Oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.

Oil Flushes and Additives

Chevrolet states that vehicle owners should not add any kind of additional fluid to the recommended engine oil of their diesel trucks. Chevrolet does not recommend using oil additives or engine oil system flushes. These treatments may void your vehicles warranty and cause damage.

Coolant

The 6.5-liter diesel should operate using a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL coolant and clean, drinking-quality water in the radiator and cooling system. The coolants purpose in the engine is to prevent overheating and extreme engine temperatures.

Other Fluids

Your 6.5-liter diesel engine and its various components rely on a number of different fluids to continue operating properly. These include DEXRON-VI automatic transmission fluid for the transmission and transfer case, GM-brand power steering and diesel exhaust fluid, and DOT-3 hydraulic brake fluid.

The PCV valve on the 1988 Ford Mustang engines is responsible for recycling unburned gas from the crankcase back to the combustion chamber. PVC is defined as positive crankcase ventilation. The PVC valve is considered an emissions component because it prevents the unburned gas from blowing out into the air. The valve has a pressure release ball inside that opens and closes due to pressure from the crankcase. Once a high amount of pressure from the unburned gas pushes against the pressure release ball, the ball will open and release the unburned gas into the combustion chamber.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Ford Mustang and open the hood. Set the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling away as you repair it.

2

Locate the silver colored L-shaped PCV valve, located on the valve cover closest to the air filter housing. The PCV valve is inserted into a rubber grommet on top of the valve cover. There are two plastic tubes on top of the PCV valve.

3

Pull the plastic tubes off of the PCV valve with your hands. If the tubes are stuck, twist them as you pull them off.

4

Pull the PCV valve straight out of the rubber grommet seated on top of the valve cover. Wipe down the area around PCV valve and the rubber grommet with a clean rag to remove any dirt or grease.

5

Push the new PCV valve into the rubber grommet and reattach the plastic tubes to the top of the PCV valve. Make sure the new PCV valve is completely seated into the rubber grommet. Close the hood.

Catalytic converters neutralize harmful gases in a vehicles exhaust. The catalytic converters on the 2002 Ford Mustang are integrated into the exhaust pipe assembly that runs from the collector to the rear pipe. This section of pipe can be replaced in under an hour with the proper tools and a little elbow grease. While it is easiest to perform this with the Mustang on a lift, you can remove this assembly in your garage with a floor jack and jack stands.

Instructions

1

Chock the rear wheels and slide the floor jack under the front of the Mustang. Jack the car up and place the jack stands under the front frame on both sides, away from the exhaust work.

2

Climb underneath the Mustang and secure the left, rear exhaust pipe, containing the muffler, to the frame with the wire coat hanger. Repeat this on the right side.

3

Wrap the last wire hanger around catalytic converter pipe assembly and hang it from the frame as well.

4

Use the socket set to unbolt the rear flange on the catalytic converter pipe assembly.

5

Move forward and unbolt the forward flange on the catalytic converter pipe.

6

Remove the coat hanger holding the rear section of the pipe to the frame and move the entire catalytic converter pipe assembly out from under the Mustang.

7

Install the replacement catalytic converter assembly in reverse of how you removed the old one. Dont forget to remove the coat hangers when done.

Until cars run efficiently on electricity only or alternative fuels, drivers are mostly stuck using gasoline. It takes three main components to move the fuel from the tank to the engine, typically found on opposite ends of the vehicle. This system has undergone many changes since the invention of the automobile, mostly due to the advancements of automotive electronics.

Fuel Pump

The fuel pump starts the entire process of moving the fuel throughout your vehicle. The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank, within the fuel lines or on the side of the engine. This pump, if electronic, receives its power from the battery and creates the pressure needed to start the engine and keep it running. Mechanical fuel pumps get their power from the turning of the engines crankshaft.

Hoses and Lines

Every car has a series of metal lines and rubber hoses that take the fuel from the fuel pump toward the engine. Within these lines is a small filter that removes the debris from the fuel prior to it reaching the engine.

Fuel Rail or Carburetor

The fuel rail, on fuel-injected vehicles, connects the fuel lines and hoses to the fuel injectors. This rail is made of metal or plastic and is on top of the engine. On older vehicles -- mostly pre-1990s -- it was not uncommon to see a carburetor in place of the fuel rail. This component regulated the fuel flow from the fuel lines to the engine.

Many structural components in automobiles are made from thin, sheet metal, supported by thicker pieces of metal, known as beams. Steel is still largely the metal of choice for automobiles, but other metals, such as zinc or nickel, may be added.

Stamping

Sheet steel automotive parts are typically stamped from rolled metal, using a stamping press and one or more cutting devices, known as a die. Parts such as hub caps and fenders are produced in this way.

Superplastic Forming

Traditionally, aluminum sheet metal parts for automotive use were formed by a hot blow forming process, known as superplastic forming. Superplastic forming is performed under controlled conditions, with regard to temperature and strain, and increases the ease with which aluminum alloys can be shaped.

Quick Plastic Forming

Superplastic forming is expensive -- up to three times more expensive than regular blow forming -- so the Department of Energy and General Motors developed a variation of the process, known as quick plastic forming. The process is faster and more cost-effective than superplastic forming.

The Chevrolet Corvette is a sports car that has been in production since 1953, and the sixth generation Corvette includes models made since 2005. The engine in a Corvette uses a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, to reduce the vibrations that the crankshaft makes when it spins rapidly. The crankshaft balancer in a late-model Corvette is a weight that fits on the end of the crankshaft. The procedure for installing the balancer is generally the same for all Corvettes made since 2005.

Instructions

1

Hold the flywheel in place with a flywheel locking tool, and detach the drive belts from their pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench.

2

Mark the crankshaft balancer and the crankshaft with white paint to indicate the correct position of the crankshaft balancer. Attach a puller to the crankshaft balancer, and pull it from the crankshaft.

3

Record the position of the weights on the crankshaft balancer. Remove the washer and weights from it.

4

Mark the new crankshaft balancer with white paint using the mark on the old balancer as a guide. Mount the weights in the new crankshaft balancer according to the notes made in the previous step. Install the washer on the new crankshaft balancer.

5

Place the new crankshaft balancer on the end of the crankshaft. Attach the balancer installer "J-41665" to the crankshaft seal installer "J-41478". Place the small end of the installer assembly into the balancer.

6

Hold the hex end of the threaded rod for the installer assembly with a box-end wrench. Turn the nut on the installer assembly clockwise with a second box-end wrench to mount the crankshaft balancer onto the crankshaft.

7

Remove the small end of the installer assembly from the crankshaft balancer, and place the large end of the installer assembly against the balancer to seat it onto the crankshaft. Remove the installer assembly from the crankshaft.

8

Fasten the old mounting bolt in the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the old mounting bolt with a socket wrench. Use a depth micrometer to ensure the crankshaft nose is recessed to between 0.094 and 0.176 inch within the balancer bore.

9

Fasten the new mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt an additional 140 degrees with a socket wrench.

10

Attach the drive belts to their pulleys. Detach the flywheel locking tool from the flywheel.

The Jimmy is a mid-size sport utility vehicle made by GMC from 1983 to 2005. The models made from 1995 to 2005 belong to the second generation of the GMC Jimmy and are virtually identical to the Chevrolet Blazer. The 1998 GMC Jimmy has a water pump that the engine powers with a belt. It circulates coolant from the radiator to the engine to prevent the engine from overheating. You can access the water pump in the 1998 GMC Jimmy from the engine compartment near the cooling fan.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench to keep you from starting the engine while you replace the water pump. Place a sealable container under the radiator petcock and open the petcock. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator into the container.

2

Rotate the belt tensioner pulley with a wrench to relieve the tension on the drive belt and remove the drive belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the upper cover for the cooling fan and remove the pulley for the water pump. Release the clamp for the hose to the water pump and disconnect the hose.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench and detach the water pump from the engine. Record the position of each retaining bolt as they may have different lengths. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Apply a thin layer of 1052080 sealant to the threads of the retaining bolts for the water pump. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and mount the water pump to the engine. Install the retaining bolts for the water pump and tighten them to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the coolant hose to the water pump and secure it with the retaining clamps. Connect the pulley for the water pump and place the drive belt over the pulley. Allow the tensioner to contact the drive belt and install the upper fan cover with a socket wrench. Connect the negative battery cable and fill the radiator with coolant. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.