Repair 7

The 3.0-liter V-6 engine of the 1996 Nissan Maxima contains three oxygen sensors in the exhaust system. There are two upstream sensors in the front pipe just below the manifold flanges, and theres a third sensor down after the catalytic converter. Auto parts stores can determine which sensor has failed by reading the "check engine light" code the sensor has tripped. Most will perform this service for free in order to sell the parts to the customer.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake of the 1996 Nissan Maxima.

2

Hoist the front of the vehicle on one side with the car jack high enough to place a jack stand under the front frame rail. Repeat this for the other front side so the entire front axle of the car is elevated.

3

Put on the safety glasses. Locate the sensor being replaced by crawling under the vehicle. One sensor is located in the drivers side front pipe up near the manifold, another is in the shorter pipe (closer to the firewall) on the passengers side front pipe assembly, and the downstream sensor is located after the catalytic converter near the center of the undercarriage.

4

Disconnect the plug of the oxygen sensor from the plug of the harness.

5

Place the wire of the sensor through the opening of the 22-mm box-end wrench or in the slot of the O2 sensor tool. Place the wrench or tool onto the hex-head of the sensor.

6

Turn the wrench or tool (with a ratchet) to the left to remove it from the O2 sensor port. The sensors only have four to five threads, so once loosened, the sensor will quickly come out of the port.

7

Thread the replacement sensor into the port by hand. Tighten it with the wrench or tool and ratchet. Be caul not to overtighten the sensor. The threads are delicate and can be easily stripped. Tighten it snug only.

8

Connect the plug of the replacement sensor to the harness plug.

9

Collect the tools and other material from under the Maxima before lowering it to the ground.

Typically, when you turn the output dial on your heater fan controls, more hot air will flow through the heat vents on your Accord. Over time, the motor that regulates how much heat is pushed into the vehicle can fail and no air will come through the vents. When this happens, you can either take your car to a mechanic, who of course will charge you for doing the work inside your dashboard, or you can complete the repair yourself in under an hour. Unlike some other components of your car, the blower motor can not be repaired without completely remanufacturing the unit, theore it is almost always replaced when it fails.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal on your battery. This should be done any time you are working on your vehicle to reduce the risk of electrical shock or short.

2

Locate all of the screws attaching the glovebox door to the glovebox. Remove the screws by turning them counterclockwise. Turn the screws on the glovebox frame counterclockwise once you have removed the door. Pull the glovebox frame from the dashboard.

3

Remove the electrical connector from the blower motor unit. This is a series of wires leading into a plastic connector.

4

Turn all connector bolts on the blower motor counterclockwise to remove the motor from the mounting flange. There are four bolts located at the corners of the blower motor.

5

Pull down on the blower motor to remove it from the heater duct.

6

Reverse the process to install the new heater blower motor into the vehicle.

Over its long history, the Chevy small block has gone through a lot of changes. But as different as it might have appeared in its later years, some things never really changed. The LS engine might technically be better in every way, but time will tell if gearheads 50 years from now end up walking around with tattoos depicting its firing order.

Firing Order

By the 1996 model year, GM had already replaced the last of the Generation I small-block 350s with the more advanced LT-series small-block. While it used far better cylinder heads, a more advanced cooling system and a sophisticated ignition system, the LT1 was still mostly a traditional 350 underneath. The cylinders on the driver side are odd-numbered, from front to back: 1, 3, 5 and 7. The passenger-side cylinders are even-numbers, from front to back numbered 2, 4, 6 and 8; the firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Note: You can only call yourself a real gearhead if youve used either "1843" or "6572" as your bank card PIN.