Repair 7

Remove all wires attached to the outer part of the Sea-Doos head. Use white masking tape and a permanent marker to mark each wire as you remove it from its original location. This makes it easier to replace the wires and put them back where they belong when you put the entire engine back together.

Remove the bolts with the appropriate size wrenches or ratchets. Bolt size depends on the Sea-Doo model you own and its engine size.

Pry the head open using a flat-head screwdriver. Caully remove the two halves from one another and inspect the interior of each. Examine the inside of each cylinder for signs of corrosion. A corroded cylinder indicates the need for a rebuild.

Remove the entire engine from the engine block and get it ready for rebuilding. Your best bet for doing this is to send it off to a machine shop to have the cylinders bored, the surface of the block prepared and the stroker kit balanced.

Set the crank and check for clearance. Begin by unbolting and pulling off the brackets on the top of the block so the tank can be set it in place. Ensure the oil gulley plug is in place. It is located in one of the holes near the corner on the top of the engine block, right next to where the oil filter goes. Place the bearings for the main crank in place by sitting them inside the engine shaft. Lubricate each bearing with engine assembly lubricant.

Lay the crankshaft in the engine shaft by caully aligning each piece of the crankshaft with the corresponding bearings. Cover the crankshaft with the main bearing caps, which should be bolted into place. Tighten each bolt with a ratchet, but avoid over tightening the bolts.

Insert the rods and the piston through the cylinders and connect these to the crankshaft using the connecting bearings. Bolt the rods to the bearings on each rod. Test out each rod and piston assembly to ensure that each has proper clearance to move through the cylinder.

Cut the block where needed to ensure proper clearance for the motor. Install both the cam and the cam bearings once you have the necessary clearance. Install the timing gear on the crankshaft, along with the crank bearings and the timing chain.

Replace the wires in the original configuration based on your wiring diagram and labels. Replace exterior bolts responsible for holding the engine block in place.

Drain the oil from the jack into a pan by removing the oil filler plug and draining the oil through it. Remove the filler plug and put it aside. Remove the handle assembly by unbolting it and put it aside. The bolts you have to use will vary depending on the jack you are working with. Once the handle assembly is off, pull out the pump. This may require you to hold the jack in a vice.

Remove the release valve by unscrewing it. In some cases this will require a wrench, the size of which will depend on your jack. Remove the overload valve, which is next to the release valve. This is a screw as well. Be careful since inside are two small balls with two springs. Make sure you recall the order in which the balls were removed. Place the balls and the springs aside.

Use the pipe wrench to remove the tank nut, which is at the top of the jacks bottle. Pull out each part individually and take careful note of which goes inside which. If your rebuild kit came with instructions, then you may be able to use it for notes.

Examine all the O-rings and seals for cuts, dents, pinches or other damage. Your rebuild kit should tell you which to replace. If you are working without a rebuild kit, then take any damaged O-rings to your local parts store and replace them with new, identical ones.

Reassemble the piston by sliding the parts back inside each other in the opposite order in which they were removed. Replace the piston inside the bottle and tighten the tank nut with the pipe wrench.

Replace the balls and springs inside the overload valve in the order you removed them. This is usually the smallest ball, followed by the smaller spring, followed by the larger ball and the larger spring. Depending on the jack, you may have extra dividers or hammers. Replace the screw in the top of the overload valve.

Replace the release valve by replacing the ball and then putting the bolt back in place on top.

Replace the handle assembly by sliding the piston into place and replacing all the bolts holding the mounting assembly in place.

Refill the jack with oil and check for leaks. Wipe down the outside with a cloth. Bleed air from the jack by opening the release valve and pumping vigorously several times. Close the release valve and pump the jack to its full height, Open the release valve and let it retract again. If it does not reach its full height, then check the outside for an oil leak and repeat the process until it does. If there is a leak, it may reveal a badly installed seal.

Test the jack on a vehicle. Check the outside for any leaks caused by the extra weight you are lifting.

Remove the starter from the vehicle. Methods for removing the starter will vary depending on the type of vehicle.

Purchase a starter rebuild kit from an auto parts outlet. These kits can be purchased for less than $40 as of 2010 and include most of the parts needed for rebuilding a starter. But you may have to purchase the starter plunger separately.

Find the end cover protecting the plunger and starter contacts. Disconnect the starter motor lead and remove this cover using a ratchet and socket or a Phillips screwdriver. This will expose the plunger and the brass starter contacts.

Pull the plunger out of the starter housing and set it aside. Take care not to lose the small spring at the end of the plunger. Find the L-shaped brass contacts on both sides of the plunger. Use a small box-end wrench to remove the retaining nuts holding the left and right contacts, along with the insulators and washers.

Install the new left and right contacts in the housing, along with all appropriate washers and insulators. Place the spring onto the end of the new plunger and feed the plunger into the starter housing. Tighten the retaining nuts with a box-end wrench. Push the plunger in against the spring to verify it pushes the starter gear outward. The gear should retract when releasing the plunger.

Reattach the end cover to the starter housing. Secure the cover with the three bolts and tighten them with a ratchet and socket or a Phillips screwdriver. Reinstall the starter in the vehicle. Methods for re-installation will vary, depending on the vehicle.