How to Replace the Rear License Plate Bulb on a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Thursday, April 17, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee has two license plate bulbs in the rear. Theyre located on the hatch shelf directly above the license plate. The front license plate doesnt require illumination, so it has no bulbs. Rear license-plate illumination, on the other hand, is mandated by law in the United States. Lighting in the rear can be overlooked since its impossible for a driver to see the back of the vehicle when driving. The license plate bulbs come on when the headlight switch is turned on.

Instructions

    1

    Ensure that the headlight switch is off. If necessary, turn on the headlight switch to determine which license plate bulb is out (unless youre replacing both). Turn the switch back off after checking.

    2

    Raise your 1997 Grand Cherokees rear hatch.

    3

    Remove the retaining screw on the lens cover of the faulty license plate bulb, using the screwdriver. Each lens only has one screw; its on the inside edge of the lens.

    4

    Pull the lens downward from where the retaining screw was removed. There is a small tab on the other side of the lens that acts as a hinge and holds the other side of the lens in place.

    5

    Pull the spent bulb straight out of the socket. Push the replacement bulb into the socket and test the light before replacing the lens assembly. Ensure that the tab on the lens is seated inside the bulbs cavity when reassembling it.

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What Is a Reverse Torx Bit

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What Is a Reverse Torx Bit?

Torx-heads screws are used in auto manufacturing and machinery because they provide the best grip for application and removal. Reverse torx are less common but are also used in automotive manufacturing.

Tightening & Loosening

    Reverse torx bolts are particularly capable of handling torque. The deep-set grooves prevent slippage and stripping often encountered with flat-head or Phillips-head screws. Increased torque means that screws and bolts will hold tighter in locations with high tension and strong vibrations.

Setting the Bolt

    Anyone who works on cars knows the difficulty of threading a bolt or screw in a hard-to-reach place. Torx are designed to be easier to start because they do not move on the end of the ratchet or wrench when held up to a thread. This is also a result of the deep notches.

Common Uses

    The most common use of torx bolts requiring a female bit is as a wheel lock on American automobiles. Typically one of the lug nuts on each wheel is replaced with a torx bolt to prevent thieves from removing the wheel easily.

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How to Build a Center Drill Jig for Tubing

Wednesday, April 16, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Build a Center Drill Jig for Tubing

A jig ensures that when parts are made, drilled, welded or bent, they are made exactly the same way as the jig and will fit the application they were designed for. A center drill jig for tubing would be designed to ensure that when using the jig, the holes you drill will be in the center of the tubing. Two methods for accomplishing this are the drill press method and the external drill jig.

Instructions

Drill Press Jig Method

    1

    Place a machined V-block onto a level drill press table.

    2

    Insert a large bit into the drill chuck. Bring the quill handle down so the bit centers perfectly into the V-block. You might need to reposition the V-block to match the drill-bit point perfectly. Release the quill and raise the drill bit.

    3

    Clamp the V-block to the level drill press table. Pull the quill handle down again to visually center the drill bit into the machined V-block again. This ensures that the V-block did not move during the clamping process. Recheck to be sure the drill bit is perfectly centered in the V-block.

    4

    Clamp a metal stop to the end of the V-block to adjust the depth of the hole you are drilling.

    5

    Remove the large drill bit and replace it with the correct size bit needed to center drill the tubing.

    6

    Place the tubing into the V-block and against the depth stop, turn on the drill and bring the quill down to drill the hole.

External Drill Jig Method

    7

    Cut a piece of triple wall tubing that fits snugly over the tubing you are drilling. Cut the triple wall tubing longer than the distance between the hole and the end of the tubing to be center drilled. For example, if the hole in the tubing is to be center drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, cut the triple wall tubing to 10 inches.

    8

    Place the triple wall tubing into the V-block of the drill press jig and drill a 5/16-inch hole all the way through the triple wall tubing a half-inch from one end. You might need to remove the triple wall tubing from the V-block once the drill bit begins to exit the bottom of the tubing, so that the drill does not damage the V-block.

    9

    Insert the 5/16-inch drill bit into the portable drill and finish drilling the 5/16-inch hole through the triple wall tubing. Place a long 5/16-inch bolt through the hole and tighten a nut onto it. This bolt will be the jig stop.

    10

    Measure the precise distance from the bolt stop to where the center drill hole is desired. For example, if the center hole is to be drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, then measure precisely eight inches from the 5/16-inch drilled hole edge and mark that point with a prick punch.

    11

    Insert a 1/8-inch drill bit into the chuck on the drill press. Place the triple wall tubing into the drill press jig V-block so that the prick-punch mark aligns precisely with the drill bit point when the quill brings the drill down to meet the punch mark.

    12

    Clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Drill the 1/8-inch hole into the triple wall tubing. If the center hole is to go all the way through the tubing when it is drilled, then drill all the way through the triple wall tubing and stop drilling before the bit touches the V-block. Drill the remaining part of the hole with the 1/8-inch bit in the portable drill.

    13

    Re-clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Bring the quill down so the 1/8-inch drill bit goes through both drilled holes in the triple wall tubing. Raise the quill on the drill press and change the drill bit in the chuck to the intended drill size and enlarge the hole.

    14

    Clamp the triple wall tubing jig into a vise. Place the undrilled tubing into the jig until it bottoms out on the 5/16-inch bolt. Insert the proper size drill bit into the portable drill, stick the drill bit into the jig and drill the tubing. If the hole needs to go all the way through the tubing, drill into the jig from both holes in the jig. For example, drill the fist hole, stop and place the drill in the other hole, 180 degrees from the first hole.

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How to Replace the Key for a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

Tuesday, April 15, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace the Key for a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

Most people find themselves searching for their car keys from time to time. More often than not the keys are found. However, there might come a time when you simply cannot find them. When this happens, you can contact your local Pontiac dealership to request new keys for your 2006 Grand Prix.

Instructions

    1

    Obtain the vehicle identification number of your Grand Prix from the purchase paperwork, the inside of the drivers door, or the bottom of the left side of the windshield. Write the number down.

    2

    Call your local Pontiac dealership. Tell the customer service representative youve misplaced the keys to your 2006 Grand Prix and would like to obtain new ones.

    3

    Visit the dealership. Give the service rep your vehicle identification number. This number provides information specific to your car, such as the cut of the key and whether or not the key needs a computer chip to match your Grand Prixs computer.

    4

    Pay for your replacement keys. Smart keys and keyless entry fobs are more expensive than traditional car keys.

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How to Disable a Limited Alarm in a 2001 Grand Cherokee

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How to Disable a Limited Alarm in a 2001 Grand Cherokee

The alarm in your 2001 Grand Cherokee can be annoying if you are trying to make any kind of repair to your vehicle. This alarm is designed to be a deterrent to auto theft, but will go off during the repair process. If you want to disable the car alarm, you have a couple of options -- either removing the fuse for the alarm or removing the power supply from your alarm. When you take the power away from the alarm, you will be able to make your repair in peace.

Instructions

Disconnecting The Battery

    1

    Locate the hood release latch on the front of the Grand Cherokee and open the hood.

    2

    Locate the negative terminal on the Cherokees battery. This terminal has a -- sign next to it.

    3

    Loosen the terminal with a pair of channel locks.

    4

    Remove the terminal from the Cherokees battery to disable the car alarm.

Removing The Fuse

    5

    Go to the drivers side of the Cherokee and locate the fuse box to the left under the steering wheel.

    6

    Pry open the fuse box with your fingers.

    7

    Consult your user manual to get the location of the alarm fuse.

    8

    Remove the alarm fuse from the fuse box to disable the car alarm with the fuse puller in your fuse box.

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How to Replace the Center Link on a 1988 Chevy Silverado

Monday, April 14, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1998 Chevy Silverado is built on the C/K General Motors truck platform. It is available in a number of cab configurations as well as in two-wheel drive, and four-wheel drive. All Silverados use center links to connect the steering knuckles on the front wheels. The center link uses tie rods with ball joints to connect to the steering knuckles so that it can flex with the truck. Over time the center link can break and need to be replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Park the truck on a level surface, in a location thats free of traffic where you have plenty of room to work around the front end. Place the truck in Park and pull the emergency brake before turning the truck off. Disconnect the black wire from the battery. Jack the front of the truck up with the car jack and lower the vehicle onto jack stands

    2

    Locate the center link that connects the two front steering knuckles. Use a wrench to loosen the tie rod on the right first. Unscrew the bottom cup joint by hand. Then unscrew the bottom cup joint from the left side of the center link. Pull the center link out from under the truck and use a rubber mallet to knock the cups off the balls on each end of the center link.

    3

    Knock the cup joints on to the balls on the new center link with the rubber mallet. Then lift the right side of the center link up and screw the right cup joint back into the tie rod by hand. Then, lift the left side and screw in the left cup joint by hand. Once the new center link is supported, use the wrench to tighten the tie rod cup joints.

    4

    Use the jack to lower the truck off of the jack stands. Have a friend watch the front wheels as you turn the steering wheel to make sure they both turn at the same rate. If not, then retighten the tie rods with a wrench.

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Torque Specs for a 5 0 Liter Mustang Cylinder Heads

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Ford debuted its Mustang in 1965. Just three years later, it introduced a new engine, the so-called 302, or 5.0 liter V8 engine, a member of Fords Windsor engine family. This performance-oriented engine was available until the end of the 1970s.

History

    Ford introduced the 5.0 liter, or 302-cubic-inch, engine in 1968 in anticipation of emissions standards established by the federal government in the 1970s. It remained an available engine in the Mustang until 1973. It was reinstated in 1975 and ended its run in Mustangs in 1979.

Cylinder Head to Engine Block

    The bolts joining the cylinder head and the engine block require three distinct applications of torque executed in a helical sequence. The bolts require first 45 foot-pounds of torque, then 55 foot-pounds and finally 70 foot-pounds of torque. You should wait about 15 minutes between each step to allow the bolts to settle and stretch.

Other Specifications

    The intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head in three stages: first to 12 foot-pounds, second to 20 foot-pounds, and third to 22 foot-pounds of torque. In 5.0 liter engines manufactured in 1969 and 1970, the rocker arm stud bolts to the cylinder head with 70 foot-pounds of torque. The valve cover bolts to the cylinder head with 4 foot-pounds of torque.

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