Showing posts with label silverado. Show all posts
Showing posts with label silverado. Show all posts

How to Change the Catalytic Converter on a Chevy Silverado

Thursday, May 1, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Change the Catalytic Converter on a Chevy Silverado

The catalytic converter regulates and reduces pollutants within the vehicles exhaust. Vehicles are required by law to have them, so you need to replace them if they are no longer working. On a current Chevy Silverado, the catalytic converters are welded to the front exhaust pipe assembly, so replacing a catalytic converter means replacing the entire front exhaust pipe assembly. This process can differ on older models (specifically ones made prior to 2007), so check with your mechanic.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the truck and support it on jack stands.

    2

    Disconnect the electrical connectors for the converters upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. Unscrew and remove the sensors using an oxygen sensor socket.

    3

    Unscrew and remove the three nuts that are on the upper-left and right flanges connecting the front exhaust pipe assembly to the exhaust manifolds flanges using a wrench. Remove the nuts for the rear flange of the front exhaust and remove the front exhaust pipe.

    4

    Install new flange gaskets onto the three mounting flanges of the replacement exhaust pipe (which will include the replacement converters).

    5

    Coat the threads on the mounting nuts and bolts with anti-seize compound. This includes the threads on the oxygen sensors.

    6

    Install the exhaust pipe system and securely tighten the nuts and bolts for the three flanges connecting it to the manifold and the rest of the exhaust system.

    7

    Connect the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors to the front exhaust pipe using the same socket as before.

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Removing the Dash Pad From a 2004 Silverado

Friday, April 25, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The dash pad on a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado is also called the upper instrument trim panel. This panel runs the entire length of the passenger cabin and must be removed in order to access the gauge cluster and the interior ventilation ducts. This panel also contains the passenger-side assist handle and covers the upper portion of the passenger air bag unit. All 2004 model year Silverados contain this panel, despite their seating or cab configuration.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Set the parking brake and turn the air flow control to the vent position. Move the gear selector lever, if equipped with an automatic transmission, to first gear to allow more space between the shift lever and the trim panel. Depress the tilt lever on the steering wheel and tilt the wheel as far down as it will go.

    2

    Pry off the end panel between the drivers door and the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Pry off the end panel between the passenger door and the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Pry off the instrument panel cluster trim plate bezel with a flat-head screwdriver.

    3

    Pry the right-side air vents out of the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Insert a flat-head screwdriver through the duct outlet holes and depress the release tabs for the assist handle, then remove the assist handle.

    4

    Pry the windshield A-pillar moldings away from the pillars until they pop loose with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the A-pillar moldings. Remove the bolts holding the trim panel to the supporting skeleton underneath the dashboard with a metric socket and a ratchet.

    5

    Lift up on the trim panel with both hands until the self-contained locking clips pop loose. Disconnect the ambient light sensors electrical connector and then completely remove the upper instrument trim panel from the vehicle.

Installation

    6

    Reconnect the ambient light sensors electrical connector to the underside of the instrument panel and set it into position. Press down on the panel to seat the panels integrated locking clips.

    7

    Reinstall the screws holding the trim panel to the dashboard skeleton with a ratchet and a metric socket. Torque the screws to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

    8

    Set the A-Pillar moldings into place and press them down until they snap into position on top of the A-pillar skeletons

    9

    Set the assist handle into position in front of the dash panel and press down on it until it locks into place. Pull on the handle to confirm that it is securely locked into place.

    10

    Place the vents into position in the air ducts and press down on them until they click into position. Snap the dashboard end panels into position.

    11

    Snap the instrument panel trim plate bezel into position. Tilt the wheel back to a normal position and shift the gear selector lever, if equipped, back into park.

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How to Replace the Center Link on a 1988 Chevy Silverado

Monday, April 14, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1998 Chevy Silverado is built on the C/K General Motors truck platform. It is available in a number of cab configurations as well as in two-wheel drive, and four-wheel drive. All Silverados use center links to connect the steering knuckles on the front wheels. The center link uses tie rods with ball joints to connect to the steering knuckles so that it can flex with the truck. Over time the center link can break and need to be replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Park the truck on a level surface, in a location thats free of traffic where you have plenty of room to work around the front end. Place the truck in Park and pull the emergency brake before turning the truck off. Disconnect the black wire from the battery. Jack the front of the truck up with the car jack and lower the vehicle onto jack stands

    2

    Locate the center link that connects the two front steering knuckles. Use a wrench to loosen the tie rod on the right first. Unscrew the bottom cup joint by hand. Then unscrew the bottom cup joint from the left side of the center link. Pull the center link out from under the truck and use a rubber mallet to knock the cups off the balls on each end of the center link.

    3

    Knock the cup joints on to the balls on the new center link with the rubber mallet. Then lift the right side of the center link up and screw the right cup joint back into the tie rod by hand. Then, lift the left side and screw in the left cup joint by hand. Once the new center link is supported, use the wrench to tighten the tie rod cup joints.

    4

    Use the jack to lower the truck off of the jack stands. Have a friend watch the front wheels as you turn the steering wheel to make sure they both turn at the same rate. If not, then retighten the tie rods with a wrench.

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What Is the Trouble Code PO452 on a 2001 Chevrolet Silverado

Tuesday, September 17, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 came with either a 4.3-liter six-cylinder, 4.8-liter eight-cylinder or a 5.3-liter eight-cylinder engine. The six cylinder base model was offered with a five-speed manual transmission, but the extended cab and other models equipped with an eight-cylinder only included a four-speed automatic transmission; with or without four-wheel drive. Despite the many differences and options available all of them have a fuel tank pressure sensor that is used to detect the amount of pressure or lack there of. Code P0452 is directly related to this sensor, but the reason your Silverado is displaying this trouble code can vary and will require some inspection.

Fuel Pressure Sensor Operation

    The fuel pressure sensor is connected to the powertrain control module or PCM via a five volt reference signal and a ground. The sensor relays a voltage back to the PCM in relation to the amount of pressure inside the gas tank and is used to detect leaks in the evaporative emissions system. A high voltage return signal indicates tank pressure is low and a lower voltage return signal indicates a higher tank pressure.

The Trouble Code

    Code P0452 is set anytime the ignition is on and the return voltage signal is less than .1-volts for longer than five seconds. The code will not be set until the PCM test fails twice consecutively when the ignition is cycled. In general code P0452 indicates an evaporative system leak somewhere in the system or a failure with the fuel pressure sensor. Double check your diagnostic trouble codes before attempting diagnoses because if P1639 was also set with P0452 there is a short to ground in the 5-volt reference circuit inside the PCM, requiring the PCM be replaced.

Checking The Fuel Pressure Sensor

    The fuel pressure sensor on your Silverado is connected to the fuel pump module and is located inside the tank; however, the harness connector extends upward and is outside of the fuel tank. There are three wires connecting the PCM to the sensor; grey is for the five volt reference signal, black is the pcm connected ground and dark green is for the signal sent back to the PCM. First and foremost check the wiring harness from the sensor connector to the PCM for any damage and fix as necessary. Disconnect the pressure sensor harness and set your digital multimeter to the volts setting. Turn the ignition key to the on position and probe the gray wire and black wire, you should receive five volts in this case the PCM is sending the proper signal and is not at fault. Connect the harness to the sensor and probe the dark green wire with the positive multimeter probe and direct the negative to a known good ground. ; if there is no reference signal the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the signal is between .1 and 5 volts examine the harness up to the PCM for a break in the circuit.

Replacing the Sensor

    Replacing the sensor will require draining the fuel tank and lowering the tank from the vehicle. As always remember to relieve fuel system pressure by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a screwdriver wrapped in a shop towel. Disconnect all fuel tank lines, connectors and vacuum lines, then remove the tank from under the vehicle. Remove the fuel pump lock ring and remove the module. Remove the screw for the sensor, it is located just above the electrical pump. Install the new sensor and set the harness into place. Lower the module into the tank and replace the lock ring gasket. Tighten the fuel tank straps to 30 foot-pounds alternating back and forth. Use a scan tool to clear any trouble codes before driving the vehicle.

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How to Replace Inner Tie Rods in a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

Sunday, September 8, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace Inner Tie Rods in a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

The inner tie rod of the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado connects the outer tie rod to the center link. The center link crosses the center of the vehicle to link the driver and passenger side tire to move both tires the same distance on each side as the steering wheel turns. The inner tie rods screw directly into the center link, and is engineered with a ball and socket design much like a hip socket. The linkage allows the wheel to turn while holding the tire precisely in line with the steering wheel. Over time, the ball and socket wears and the tie rod must be replaced to eliminate play between the tire and the steering wheel.

Instructions

    1

    Park the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado on a hard flat level surface such as the concrete floor of a garage. Set the parking brake. Block the rear tires with wheel chocks to prevent the truck rolling.

    2

    Jack the truck with an automotive jack. Place jack stands under the frame rails where the control arms attach. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

    3

    Measure the length of the inner and outer tie rod steering linkage with the tape measure. Write down the measurement and where the measurement was taken from on the scrap piece of paper with a pencil.

    4

    Break loose the inner tie rod to outer tie rod jam nut with a metric wrench.

    5

    Remove the outer tie rod to steering knuckle retaining nut with a 3/8-inch drive socket and ratchet. Hit the side of the steering knuckle where the outer tie rods ball stud attaches several times to break the outer tie rod free from the steering knuckle. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

    6

    Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod by hand. Use metric wrenches to turn the outer tie rod and prevent the inner tie rod from turning if necessary.

    7

    Find the appropriate insert from the inner tie rod tool to firmly hold the flats of the inner tie rod where it attaches to the center link. Install the sleeve of the inner tie rod tool over the tie rod to engage the insert and lock the insert into place. Attach the 1/2-inch drive long handled ratchet to the inner tie rod tool. Unscrew the inner tie rod from the center link.

    8

    Install the new inner tie rod using the tie rod tool. Thread the inner tie rod to outer tie rod jam nut down the shaft by hand.

    9

    Thread the outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod to approximately the same position it was in before. Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle, torquing the retaining nut with a 3/8-inch drive socket and ratchet.

    10

    Measure the tie rod assembly again at the same points. Turn the main shaft of the inner tie rod with a wrench until the measurements match exactly. Tighten the jam nut while preventing the inner tie rod shaft from turning.

    11

    Lower the vehicle from the jack stands. Remove the wheel chocks. Release the parking brake.

    12

    Align the vehicle to the factory specifications with an alignment machine for proper handling and minimal tire wear.

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