Repair 7

Modern vehicles, such as a 1997 Chevrolet, may have an anti-lock braking system (ABS) that prevents the wheels from locking in an emergency stop. The brake controller is also known as an Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). It monitors the rotational speed of each wheel and decreases the braking force to a wheel that is rotating significantly slower than the other wheels. The procedure for installing an EBCM is generally the same for most Chevrolets made between 1997 and 2000.

Instructions

1

Locate the EBCM. Its under the dashboard to the left of the steering column.

2

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the bracket for the EBCM to release it from its bracket.

3

Detach the electrical wiring harness from the EBCM, and remove the EBCM from the vehicle.

4

Plug the electrical wiring harness into the new EBCM. The harness will make an audible click when the connection is secure.

5

Install the new EBCM to its mounting bracket and secure it in place with the pressure tabs on the bracket.

6

Connect a bi-directional scan tool to terminal 9 of the data link connector (DLC). The DLC is in the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Read and correct any diagnostic trouble codes related to the braking system. Disconnect the bi-directional scan tool from the data link connector once youve read and addressed the codes.

You can decode your Chevy Camaros engine codes using a handheld OBD I or II scan tool. Camaros manufactured 1996 or later use an OBD II scan tool; earlier model Camaros require an OBD I scan tool. These scan tools can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer. The Camaro has an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) computer which receives and stores trouble codes which can be decoded using the scan tool. The codes are looked up in a manual, allowing you to diagnose your Camaros malfunctions.

Instructions

1

Find the diagnostic port under the steering column. It is the same shape and size as the OBD scan tools connective end. Caully plug the scan tool into this port. You may have to rotate the scan tool to get it to fit into the port correctly.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont start the engine. This will power on most scan tools. If not, look for the "on/off" switch on the scan tool and turn it "on."

3

Wait for the scan tool to interface with the Camaros computer and retrieve the codes. On some scan tools you have to press a "Read Codes" button. Refer to the scan tools manual if you are unsure.

4

Write down the error codes and look up their meanings in the scan tools manual. Have the Camaro serviced or repaired based on the information gathered from the codes.

A Suburban transmission mount is a block of rubber, bonded between a metal plate on top and a threaded stud centered on the bottom. The mount fits between the transmission tail-shaft and the cross member. It bolts to the two threaded holes under the transmission tail shaft, and to the bracket on the cross member, with a threaded stud. The transmission mount failure occurs when the rubber gets stretched or becomes separated from the top plate or the threaded stud on the bottom. Even when new, some transmission mounts allow for movement and noise.

Instructions

Remove the Transmission Mount

1

Drive the Suburban onto a set of ramps, and apply the emergency brake.

2

Place blocks on the front and rear side of the rear wheels, to prevent the truck from rolling.

3

Go under the vehicle, using a creeper. Place the tools and hydraulic bottle jack within reach.

4

Remove the two mount bolts on the bottom of the transmission tail shaft, as well as the nut from the threaded stud in the cross member. It may be necessary to hold the rubber mount with a pair of lockjaw pliers, while removing the nut from the cross member.

5

Place a bottle jack under the tail of the transmission, and jack it high enough to remove the old transmission mount.

6

Insert the new transmission mount with the threaded stud through the hole in the cross member bracket.

7

Thread the two top bolts into the tail shaft of the transmission, and tighten.

8

Lower the transmission, centered onto the cross member, with the threaded stud through the cross member bracket, and tighten.

9

Remove the blocks from the rear wheels, and back the vehicle off the ramps.

Introduced in 1935, the Chevrolet Suburban is one of the longest-running vehicle models in history. While it has gone through numerous redesigns and adopted countless innovations since its early years, the Suburban remains a popular full-size SUV. The 2003 Chevrolet Suburban came in Suburban 1500 and Suburban 2500 trims. The two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the Suburban 1500 had different alignment specs, while all trims of the Suburban 2500 shared the same alignment specs for 2003.

The 2003 2WD Suburban 1500

The caster angle on the front left wheel should be set at +3.9 degrees, but the caster angle on the front right wheel can range from +1.0 degrees to +4.7 degrees, with a cross tolerance of -0.8 degrees for the left wheel and +0.75 degrees for the right wheel. The camber angle can range from +0.25 degrees to +0.50 degrees on each of the front wheels, with a cross tolerance of zero to +0.5 degrees. The front toe-in can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.2 degrees. The rear end alignment is not adjustable.

The 2003 4WD Suburban 1500

The caster angle on the front left wheel should be set at +3.5 degrees, but the caster angle on the front right wheel can range from +1.0 degrees to +4.5 degrees, with a cross tolerance of -1.0 degrees for the left wheel and +0.50 degrees for the right wheel. The camber angle can range from +0.25 degrees to +0.50 degrees on each of the front wheels, with a cross tolerance of zero to +0.5 degrees. The front toe-in can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.2 degrees. The rear end alignment is not adjustable.

The 2003 2WD and 4WD Suburban 2500s

The caster angle on the front left wheel should be set at +4.5 degrees, but the caster angle on the front right wheel can range from +1.0 degrees to +4.75 degrees, with a cross tolerance of -0.25 degrees for the left wheel and +0.75 degrees for the right wheel. The camber angle can range from +0.25 degrees to +0.50 degrees on each of the front wheels, with a cross tolerance of zero to +0.5 degrees. The front toe-in can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.2 degrees.

Unlike the alignment on all of the 2003 Suburban 1500 trims and most of the 2003 Suburban 2500 trims, the rear end alignment is adjustable on the 2003 Suburban 2500 trims that came with Quadrasteer. On Suburbans with Quadrasteer, the camber angle on the rear end can range from -0.5 degrees to +0.5 degrees and the toe in can range from zero to +0.2 degrees. The caster is not adjustable.

The 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 came with either a 4.3-liter six-cylinder, 4.8-liter eight-cylinder or a 5.3-liter eight-cylinder engine. The six cylinder base model was offered with a five-speed manual transmission, but the extended cab and other models equipped with an eight-cylinder only included a four-speed automatic transmission; with or without four-wheel drive. Despite the many differences and options available all of them have a fuel tank pressure sensor that is used to detect the amount of pressure or lack there of. Code P0452 is directly related to this sensor, but the reason your Silverado is displaying this trouble code can vary and will require some inspection.

Fuel Pressure Sensor Operation

The fuel pressure sensor is connected to the powertrain control module or PCM via a five volt reference signal and a ground. The sensor relays a voltage back to the PCM in relation to the amount of pressure inside the gas tank and is used to detect leaks in the evaporative emissions system. A high voltage return signal indicates tank pressure is low and a lower voltage return signal indicates a higher tank pressure.

The Trouble Code

Code P0452 is set anytime the ignition is on and the return voltage signal is less than .1-volts for longer than five seconds. The code will not be set until the PCM test fails twice consecutively when the ignition is cycled. In general code P0452 indicates an evaporative system leak somewhere in the system or a failure with the fuel pressure sensor. Double check your diagnostic trouble codes before attempting diagnoses because if P1639 was also set with P0452 there is a short to ground in the 5-volt reference circuit inside the PCM, requiring the PCM be replaced.

Checking The Fuel Pressure Sensor

The fuel pressure sensor on your Silverado is connected to the fuel pump module and is located inside the tank; however, the harness connector extends upward and is outside of the fuel tank. There are three wires connecting the PCM to the sensor; grey is for the five volt reference signal, black is the pcm connected ground and dark green is for the signal sent back to the PCM. First and foremost check the wiring harness from the sensor connector to the PCM for any damage and fix as necessary. Disconnect the pressure sensor harness and set your digital multimeter to the volts setting. Turn the ignition key to the on position and probe the gray wire and black wire, you should receive five volts in this case the PCM is sending the proper signal and is not at fault. Connect the harness to the sensor and probe the dark green wire with the positive multimeter probe and direct the negative to a known good ground. ; if there is no reference signal the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the signal is between .1 and 5 volts examine the harness up to the PCM for a break in the circuit.

Replacing the Sensor

Replacing the sensor will require draining the fuel tank and lowering the tank from the vehicle. As always remember to relieve fuel system pressure by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a screwdriver wrapped in a shop towel. Disconnect all fuel tank lines, connectors and vacuum lines, then remove the tank from under the vehicle. Remove the fuel pump lock ring and remove the module. Remove the screw for the sensor, it is located just above the electrical pump. Install the new sensor and set the harness into place. Lower the module into the tank and replace the lock ring gasket. Tighten the fuel tank straps to 30 foot-pounds alternating back and forth. Use a scan tool to clear any trouble codes before driving the vehicle.

The inner tie rod of the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado connects the outer tie rod to the center link. The center link crosses the center of the vehicle to link the driver and passenger side tire to move both tires the same distance on each side as the steering wheel turns. The inner tie rods screw directly into the center link, and is engineered with a ball and socket design much like a hip socket. The linkage allows the wheel to turn while holding the tire precisely in line with the steering wheel. Over time, the ball and socket wears and the tie rod must be replaced to eliminate play between the tire and the steering wheel.

Instructions

1

Park the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado on a hard flat level surface such as the concrete floor of a garage. Set the parking brake. Block the rear tires with wheel chocks to prevent the truck rolling.

2

Jack the truck with an automotive jack. Place jack stands under the frame rails where the control arms attach. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Measure the length of the inner and outer tie rod steering linkage with the tape measure. Write down the measurement and where the measurement was taken from on the scrap piece of paper with a pencil.

4

Break loose the inner tie rod to outer tie rod jam nut with a metric wrench.

5

Remove the outer tie rod to steering knuckle retaining nut with a 3/8-inch drive socket and ratchet. Hit the side of the steering knuckle where the outer tie rods ball stud attaches several times to break the outer tie rod free from the steering knuckle. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

6

Unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod by hand. Use metric wrenches to turn the outer tie rod and prevent the inner tie rod from turning if necessary.

7

Find the appropriate insert from the inner tie rod tool to firmly hold the flats of the inner tie rod where it attaches to the center link. Install the sleeve of the inner tie rod tool over the tie rod to engage the insert and lock the insert into place. Attach the 1/2-inch drive long handled ratchet to the inner tie rod tool. Unscrew the inner tie rod from the center link.

8

Install the new inner tie rod using the tie rod tool. Thread the inner tie rod to outer tie rod jam nut down the shaft by hand.

9

Thread the outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod to approximately the same position it was in before. Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle, torquing the retaining nut with a 3/8-inch drive socket and ratchet.

10

Measure the tie rod assembly again at the same points. Turn the main shaft of the inner tie rod with a wrench until the measurements match exactly. Tighten the jam nut while preventing the inner tie rod shaft from turning.

11

Lower the vehicle from the jack stands. Remove the wheel chocks. Release the parking brake.

12

Align the vehicle to the factory specifications with an alignment machine for proper handling and minimal tire wear.