Repair 7

Knowing how to maintain your vehicle can save you time and money. However, maintenance on your vehicle can be a bit challenging. Learning the basics, such as how to replace your turn signal bulbs, can be tricky but also one that is rewarding for both you and your wallet.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your vehicle and remove the round panel directly behind the taillight assembly.

2

Unscrew the exposed black knob to release the back light casing.

3

Locate the release tab on the light and pull out the casing. The release tab should be in the gap between the light casing and the portion of the vehicle closest to the hatch back door.

4

Find the two exposed light switches on the back of the exposed light. One of the switches is for your vehicles brake light and the other is for the turn signal.

5

Disconnect the wires on the back of the turn signal and turn the switch counter-clockwise to remove.

6

Remove the old bulb and with the clean cloth, insert the new bulb. The bottom of the bulb must be lined up properly in order to secure itself in the casing.

7

Replace and reconnect the turn signal switch and wires. Replace the casing and secure the black knob and panel.

8

Turn on the turn signal to ensure that it is working properly.

Ford uses halogen light bulbs housed within a headlamp assembly for forward illumination on the 2003 F-150 model vehicles. The bulb plugs into the headlamp assembly and is held in place by a headlamp bulb retainer, which serves to seal and isolate the headlamp assembly from the atmosphere. Over time, the filaments within the bulb can break due to vibration. Replace the bulb without the benefit of tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Turn the ignition and headlamp switches to the Off position. Raise the hood.

2

Locate the two headlamp housing retainer tabs inside the engine compartment just behind and above the headlamp housing assembly. Pull the tabs slightly toward the rear of the vehicle and pull up on them to release the headlamp housing assembly.

3

Separate the headlamp housing from the front of the vehicle to expose the headlamp electrical connector on the back. Squeeze the locking tabs on the side of the electrical connector and unplug the connector from the headlamp bulb. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.

4

Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise to unsnap it from the headlamp housing. Remove the headlamp bulb retainer. Grasp the headlamp bulb and pull it out of the headlamp housing.

Installation

5

Insert the new headlamp bulb into the headlamp housing with the flat side of the bulb connector facing up.

6

Install the headlamp bulb retainer into the back of the headlamp housing and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into place. Plug the headlamp electrical connector into the headlamp bulb and push it on until the connector snaps in position.

7

Guide the headlamp housing into position. Ensure that the headlamp assembly is aligned properly with the alignment pins on the back of the housing, inserted in the holes in the body and engaged with the reinforcement ribs around the edge of the headlamp housing recess. Push down on the headlamp housing retainer tabs until they snap into position.

The Volkswagen New Beetle, like many other vehicles made in recent years, is equipped with a radio that requires a code to properly function after being disconnected from its power source. This feature is designed to make the radio as useful as a paperweight in the event of theft. The need for a radio code has served to reduce the theft of original equipment manufacturer (OEM) radios, but it also makes it annoying for owners who have removed their radios for various reasons, including replacement and service.

Instructions

Instructions

1

Find the VW owners manual in the glove box. Find the card inside the owners manual that contains the radio code. This code is provided when the car is first purchased from the dealership. In some cases, the card may be misplaced before or after the vehicle is sold to another person.

2

Look for the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) of the New Beetle if the VW owners manual does not contain the radio code. You can find the VIN near the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side of the vehicle. Write this information down on a piece of paper.

3

Remove the radio from the dashboard. You will need a set of radio removal keys, available for purchase at most car audio outlets. Insert the radio removal keys firmly into the two slots along the bottom edge of the radio then pull the radio out of the slot. Look for the radio serial number located on the back of the unit. This number will start with "vw4z7" or a similar identifier. Write this serial number down on the same piece of paper as the VIN for safekeeping.

4

Take the information written down to the nearest VW dealership and request that they find your radio code with the information provided. Both the VIN and radio serial number are required for the dealership to successfully find your radio code. Upon finding the radio code, write it down in the owners manual or someplace else where you can safely store it.

Its almost as though theyre trying to irritate their parents. Back when it debuted, gearheads regularly referred to the Impala in reverent tones as "the SS," or "the 409." Later "enthusiasts," though, came to think of the Impalas chrome emblem as depicting a leaping donkey, and the "Donk" was born. And so it was that heathens world-wide devised a whole new way to irritate Mom and Dad.

Pads

As of 2013, youre looking at about $15 for the cheapest front pads, and the same for the rear. Add in $15 for ancillary items like brake fluid, anti-squeal lubricant and brake cleaner, and you can expect to spend about $45 minimum in parts to replace the pads on all four wheels. some of the better pads can run upward of $50 per set, for a total of about $115 for the best brake pad replacement possible.

Rotors

The cheapest front rotors are about $37 a piece, and the upgraded "severe duty" name-brand front rotors are about $50; dimensionally and in terms of materials, the two are identical, and the cheaper rotor is actually a bit lighter. The cheapest rear rotors are about $25 a piece, and 5 pounds lighter each than the $40 slotted rotor, which will last longer and run cooler. The most expensive rear rotor is about $55, but doesnt offer any real advantages over the $25 rotor. So, add between $124 and $210 for four new rotors, depending on the units you choose.

Shop Estimates

Shops typically determine labor by "book time," or the number of hours the shop manual says the job should take. They multiply those "book hours" by the shops per-hour labor rate, which as of 2013 is about $40 to $65 for a decent independent mechanic. Book time for the front pads is 1.2 for both sides, and 1.6 hours for the rear; which means $50 to $80 for the front pads, and $64 to $104 for the rear. Thats about $115 to $184 for labor. Suggestion: If youve got a floor jack and basic hand tools, just save yourself the money and do this simple, DIY job yourself.

The tenth generation of the Chrysler New Yorker includes the 1988 through the 1993 model years, and has little resemblance to the previous generation of the New Yorker. The standard engine for the 1989 Chrysler New Yorker is a six-cylinder, 3.0-liter engine made by Mitsubishi. This engine uses a timing belt to coordinate the movement of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt wears out at regular intervals, and its replacement is a part of routine maintenance.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cover for the front rocker arm with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft damper with the corresponding mark on the engine. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by a full turn if any of the valve springs are still compressed.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and disconnect the outer timing belt covers from the engine. Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to relieve the pressure on the timing belt and remove the timing belt. Move the tensioner away from the engine as far as possible and tighten the bolt on the tensioner.

3

Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with Spanner tool MB990775. Remove the bolt and washer from the sprocket with a socket wrench. Align the groove on the camshaft sprocket with the groove on the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the sprocket to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove Spanner tool MB990775 from the sprocket.

4

Turn both camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the alternator bracket and inner timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump.

5

Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket while maintaining tension on the front side of the timing belt. Place the timing belt over the front camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket and inside the belt tensioner, in that order. Keep tension on the timing belt as you install it, except for the portion on the timing belt adjuster.

6

Turn the front camshaft counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt. Ensure that the timing mark aligns once again, and connect the flange for the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench.

7

Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner, causing the tensioner spring to apply tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise until its timing marks aligns once again. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Install the outer timing belt covers and the rocker arm cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal and test the vehicle for proper operation.