Repair 7

Replacing the catalytic converter on a 2001 Honda Odyssey will save money and can be done without special tools. The retaining nuts on the converter may be seized from temperatures they endure over time, so plan to spray them for several days with a good penetrating oil to help loosen them. A replacement converter for the Honda model is available from Honda dealers or larger auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the Odyssey with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension. Lower the jack, setting the van on the jack stands. Be sure the van is stable before sliding under it just behind the front tires.

2

Locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system; it should be just behind the head pipe. Look for the heat shields that wrap around the top and bottom of the converter and the two mounting bolts that hold the shields in place on either side. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and remove the heat shields from the converter.

3

Locate the three mounting studs on each end of the converter and remove the nuts from the studs with a wrench. Afterward, pull the rear pipe assembly back from the converter until it clears the studs. This allows you to push the pipe off to the side and out of the way.

4

Pull the converter back from the head pipe until the studs clear the mounting flange. Then lower the converter to the ground. Two brass gaskets are used to seal the converter to the flanges; make sure they come out as well.

5

Position a new converter under the van and raise it into position. Align the studs with the front flange and slide them together loosely. Then slide the rear pipe onto the studs at the back of the converter.

6

Tighten the retaining nuts onto all the studs a few turns just to hold the converter in place. Insert a new brass gasket into gap between the catalytic converter and the flange on each end. Torque all six retaining nuts to 25 pound-feet with a torque wrench and socket.

7

Install the heat shields around the new converter, install the retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Raise the front of the van off the jack stands with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the van onto the tires and remove the jack from under it.

Vehicle headlights are not only a safety feature that improves vision in the dark and rain and allows other vehicles to see you at night, they are also required by law. You must replace headlights as soon as they begin to dim and immediately if they burn out completely. Since vehicle headlights come in a wide variety of sizes and styles, you must examine the vehicle to determine which one will fit.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the vehicle and lean inside to look at the back of one of the headlights. Locate the wire that attaches to the back of the light, which is the power supply. Pull the wire straight out from the back of the light. In some cases, the wire will have a small tab that you squeeze before removing it.

2

Grasp the rubber cover on the back of the light, called the dust cover, and pull it straight out from the light to remove it.

3

Locate the metal clip that covers the back of the headlight and holds it in place. Press down on the top of the clip to lower it away from the light.

4

Grasp the bottom of the bulb, which will be clearly visible in the center of the headlight and pull it out away from the light.

5

Look at the metal base of the light bulb for printed words, which will identify the bulb type and wattage. The most common types of headlight bulbs are sizes H1, H4 or H7.

A good hydraulic floor jack is a staple of every garage due to its versatile lifting abilities. With a floor jack there is no need to drive a car onto a lift -- simply put the jack underneath and raise it. For this reason, it can be a major frustration to find that your jack has broken. Fortunately you may be able to repair the jack yourself, and you should always try to do so before sending it away for a costly and potentially lengthy repair.

Instructions

1

Compare the capacity on the jack to the weight of the vehicle. The vehicles weight is listed on the drivers door pillar. The capacity of the jack is written on the jack or on the documentation that accompanied it when it was new.

2

Extend the piston by pumping it out or opening the release valve and pulling it out by hand. Watch for binding as the piston is extending. Once it is out look for dirt or grit on the piston which may have damaged the seal. Examine the seal at the bottom of the piston for pinches or cuts. If this seal is broken then the jack may have to go to a repair facility for further work.

3

Open the oil reservoir cap. This is usually the uppermost cap and you may need a flathead screwdriver to get to it. The oil should be 1/4-inch below the level of the hole. Top up the oil to this level if it is low and replace the cap.

4

Bleed air from the jacks hydraulics. Open the release valve and pump vigorously. Close the release valve, pump the piston to its full extension and then open the release valve to let it down. You should do this without using a vehicle as a weight. If the jack does not reach its full height then repeat the process until it does. Wipe the jack clean with a cloth before starting the bleed process and examine the jack afterward for evidence of leaks.

5

Lift the vehicle with the jack. If it still does not work then the pump may be broken and should be replaced. This is best undertaken by an authorized repair facility used to working with pressurized hydraulic systems.

The 2006 Ford Taurus exhaust system is held in place by a number of different fasteners, each of which must be torqued to the proper value when tightening. Gaskets help to seal the pieces together completely. Improper exhaust repairs can create a dangerous carbon monoxide leak, which might get into the vehicle passenger compartment.

Exhaust System Components

There are two exhaust manifolds -- one for each bank of cylinders. They move away from the engine and merge into a "Y" connector, which then enters the upper catalytic converter as a single pipe. Exhaust travels into the second converter, through the muffler to the tailpipe, and out of the vehicle. Two oxygen sensors are located along the exhaust pathway.

Component Functions

Oxygen sensors inserted into the exhaust stream monitor emissions. The catalytic converter uses a platinum catalyst and very high temperatures to change toxic gases to less harmful compounds. The muffler contains a series of baffles that act to cancel out some of the engine noise. Exhaust system isolators are rubber extensions to the mounting brackets and serve to reduce transmission of noise and vibration to the vehicle interior.

Torque Specifications

Torque the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust system nuts to 30 foot-pounds and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts to 35 foot-pounds. The three-way converter-to-muffler clamp nuts should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds as should the catalyst monitor sensors. Proper torque for the dual converter Y-pipe heat shield nuts and bolt (12-valve engine) is 10 foot-pounds, while the dual converter Y-pipe bracket nut (24-valve engine) should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds. The engine mount nut torque spec is 66 foot-pounds, the transmission mount nut should also be torqued to 66 foot-pounds, while the engine roll restrictor bolts need 35 foot-pounds. The muffler rear insulator bracket should be torqued to 13 foot-pounds, the muffler front insulator bracket to 11 foot-pounds and the muffler extension pipe insulator bracket screws to 10 foot-pounds.

Exhaust System Warnings

The entire exhaust system must be allowed to cool before work begins. Support the exhaust system with a suitable jack -- components are heavy. The sharp edges on the catalytic converter can cut the CV joint boot. Protect the half-shaft boot with a small rug or mat before removing the converter assembly. Do not damage the manifold outlet flare, the converter inlet flare, or the studs when replacing the catalytic converter. Do not use oil or grease-based lubricants on the exhaust isolators -- they may damage the rubber and cause the exhaust pipe to loosen during use.

Cylinder-head porting is the burring down the exhaust ports and intake of an internal combustion engine so that air flows through more smoothly. Porting brings the engine to maximum efficiency and is necessary for high-power output of modern engines, such as in racing vehicles. Most porting tips are made of carbide or another heavy-duty metal.

Non-Ferrous-Cut Burr

Non-ferrous-cut burrs are used primarily on soft materials such as aluminum, reinforced plastics and soft steel. They have a flat, high-flute finish for fast stock removal and easy chip flow.

Cylinder-With-End-Cut-Carbide Rotary Burr

The cylinder-with-end-cut-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, harder materials as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and less vibration. The diameter of the burr is 3/8 of an inch.

Double-Cut Burr

Double-cut burrs are for use on harder materials. They can be used at slow speeds and reduce the size of chips. A double-cut burr has left-hand flutes to reduce the pulling action.

Tree-Carbide Rotary Burr

The tree-carbide rotary burr is made of solid carbide and comes to a point at the end. It is a double-cut burr used on ferrous materials. The diameter of the head is 3/8 of an inch with a 3/4-inch length of cut.

Ball-Nosed-Cylinder-Carbide Rotary Burr

The ball-nosed-cylinder-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, hard metals as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and slivers. The diameter of the burr head is 3/8 of an inch.

Inverted-Cone-Carbide Rotary Burr

The inverted-cone-carbide rotary burr is made of solid carbide with a flat end. It comes in double-cut and alternative-cut burrs and is used on ferrous materials. The diameter of the head is 3/8 of an inch with a 3/4-inch length of cut.

Ball-Nosed-Cone-Carbide Rotary Burr

The ball-nosed-cone-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, harder materials as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and less vibration. The diameter of the burr is 3/8 of an inch with a 1-inch length of cut.

Replacement Harley oil pumps must be primed after installation but before their first use in order to prevent air lock or cavitation. Essentially, air trapped inside the pump while it was out of the crankcase prevents oil from flowing and the engine quickly goes dry. It is a mistake one rarely makes twice since the engine may practically explode within a few hundred yards of leaving the garage on the first test ride. Oil pump manufacturers including S&S, Harley-Davidson and Sifton dryly note that substantial engine damage not covered under warranty may result from failing to prime an oil pump.

Instructions

1

Install the oil pump. Connect feeder and return lines. Fill the oil tank to correct level.

2

Remove check valve cover screw with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the check valve O-ring and spring by hand.

3

Remove the check valve ball with a mechanics magnet from inside the oil pump body. On a typical Harley oil pump the check valve cover screw is on top of the oil pump body.

4

Look inside the open check valve. The exposed cavity inside the oil pump should fill with oil within seconds.

5

Pour clean engine oil into the cavity if it remains empty and wait for five minutes.

6

Replace the check valve ball, spring, O-ring and screw. Put the motorcycle in "Neutral" and start the engine.

7

Confirm oil circulation with an oil pressure gauge and by removing the filler cap from the oil tank and watching oil return to the tank.

A lathe chuck is important to the function of a lathe. The chuck is used in woodworking applications to hold an object in place when you are working on it. These chucks are most commonly used to hold a rotating tool, such as a power drill. If you have a lathe chuck and want to clamp it down, you can auto-clamp it to ensure it will stay in place when in use.

Instructions

1

Inspect the lathe chuck and ensure it is secure around the object it is holding in place. Verify that it is tightened down over the object. Grip the lathe chuck and check how much it is sliding around. The chuck will move around slightly if it not securely clamped down to the table.

2

Move the chuck so it is near the edge of the table or surface it is on. This will enable you to auto-clamp it down in place. Position it exactly where you want it to be located and verify that it is level on the table.

3

Open up a C-clamp. Loosen it by hand until it is open enough to fit around the chuck and slide it over top of the base of the chuck. Slide one end of the clamp underneath the table and ensure the other side is sitting on top of the base of the chuck.

4

Turn the knob on the bottom of the C-clamp and tighten it down until it is firmly holding the chuck in place on the table and is also pressing firmly against the bottom of the table. Position another C-clamp on the other end of the chuck and tighten it down in place in the exact same manner. Grip the chuck and verify it does not move around.