Repair 7

A catalytic converter greatly reduces the amount of emissions that your vehicle produces. However, when this part has gone bad it can mean trouble for your vehicle as well as the environment. Certain clues will help you determine whether your catalytic converter is failing.

Driveability

Your ability to drive your vehicle normally will be affected if the catalytic converter is bad. The speed and the power of a vehicle will fall below their normal performance levels. If your vehicle starts to have trouble with stalling, this could be a sign of bad catalytic converter.

Emissions

A rise in vehicle hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide emissions is a sure sign that a catalytic converter has gone bad. An exhaust analyzer, which costs $3,000 to $5,000, can inform you whether the converter is bad by reading the emissions levels as they exit the exhaust pipe.

Exhaust

The color of the smoke coming from your exhaust is another way to determine whether a catalytic converter is bad. Blue smoke indicates that the converter might be contaminated with phosphorus, which is found in motor oil. White smoke usually indicates that coolant is leaking internally.

The steering wheel in a 2002 Pontiac Firebird is held to the steering column with a non-reusable nut. The drivers side airbag unit covers the nut and also contains the horn pad. In order to access the nut, you must disable the air bag system and caully remove the airbag unit from the steering wheel. Removing the steering wheel is a common step in many repair procedures, such as removing the dashboard and replacing the vehicles heater core.

Instructions

Removal

1

Rotate the steering wheel so the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then turn off the ignition switch and take out the key.

2

Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel fuse block door. Remove the 15-amp airbag fuse and set it aside. Remove the screws holding the drivers side lower dashboard cover to the dashboard with a metric nut driver, then remove the cover. Disconnect the yellow airbag electrical connector at the base of the steering column.

3

Disconnect the negative battery terminal with an 8 mm wrench. Tilt the steering wheel to its maximum downward position. Remove the screws on the back side of the airbag unit with a T-30 Torx bit and a ratchet.

4

Pull the airbag unit off of the steering wheel and disconnect its electrical connector by gently raising the locking tab with a small flat-head screwdriver, then removing the connector from the airbag unit. Remove the airbag unit from the vehicle.

5

Remove the steering wheel lock nut with a ratchet and a metric socket. Push the horn ground lead inward and rotate it counterclockwise to disengage its locking tab, then pull it out of the steering wheel.

6

Attach a steering wheel puller to the steering wheel. Tighten the center bolt on the steering wheel puller with a ratchet and socket until the wheel is free from the steering shaft. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.

Installation

7

Set the steering wheel into position on the steering shaft and thread a new nut onto the steering shaft spindle. Tighten the nut and watch while it draws the steering wheel down to the bottom of the spindle shaft. Torque the nut to 32 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and verify that the wheel is fully-seated.

8

Insert the horn lead back into its mounting hole and rotate the connector clockwise until it locks into position.

9

Reconnect the airbags electrical connector and reinstall the Torx screws holding the bag unit to the wheel. Torque the bag retaining screws to 25 inch-pounds.

10

Reconnect the airbag connector at the base of the steering shaft and reinstall the lower dashboard cover.

11

Replace the 15-amp airbag fuse and reinstall the left instrument panel cover. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

The timing chain keeps parts within your engine in sync by shutting and opening valves at their correct times. If you experience problems with your timing chain, knowing the right procedure for replacing it is valuable information to have.

Significance

Timing chain problems can lead to other serious engine issues. Pistons can be damaged as a result of a broken timing chain. You are also at risk of bending valves if you prolong your timing chain replacement.

Identification

There are several things that you can look for to identify timing chain problems. Strange engine noises proceeding from the front of the engine is a great indicator. A rattling sound as you increase and lower speeds often suggests that your timing chain is failing.

Procedure

To replace your timing chain, several parts will need to be removed first, such as fan belts and pulleys. Timing covers should also be removed and inspected. When replacing the timing chain, the tensioner and sprockets should be replaced with it as well.

In an internal combustion engine, the exhaust manifold collects the products of combustion (exhaust gases) from two or more cylinders and conducts these to a single exhaust pipe.

Design

Typically made of stainless steel, cast-iron or heavy-gauge steel, the exhaust manifold directs exhaust gases from multiple cylinders to a single exhaust pipe. In so doing, the exhaust manifold also helps to minimize leakage of heat, air and gases. Copper gaskets connecting the manifold to the cylinder heads can be used to create a more airtight system, though these are not necessary.

Benefits

By minimizing the loss of heat, the exhaust manifold reduces the temperature under the hood. This helps to prevent overheating and damage to heat-sensitive parts while increasing power by reducing the temperature of the intake manifold. As gases move more quickly in higher temperatures, the exhaust manifold helps to increase the speed at which exhaust leaves the system.

Limits

As cylinders fire at different times, an ideal exhaust manifold would contain pipes of different lengths to ensure that exhaust gases from one cylinder have been cleared from the system before another fires (i.e., to prevent back pressure). Due to space limitations, however, exhaust manifolds typically contain short pipes of uniform length. Though compact, this design increases back pressure, subsequently increasing heat loss under the hood and reducing engine performance.

Scooter clutches come in two general design categories: a clutch basket incorporates clutch cork plates; and a rotating wheel that uses shoes similar to a brake drum system to engage and disengage gears. Working on these clutches involves two sets of tools as well: specialty tools that need to be obtained from a manufacturer or dealer; and standard tools that can be purchased at any general hardware store.

Specialty Holding Tools

For clutch basket-type clutches on a scooter the clutch and crankshaft of the engine needs to be kept stationary. A clutch holding tool hooks into the side of the clutch basket and to the engine case. Doing so, when the clutch turns as it is loosened, it stops because of the hook, allowing the clutch holding nut to be loosened or tightened properly.

A different clutch holding type inserts into the clutch body and a mechanic keeps it still by hand while using a different tool in another hand to loosen or tighten the clutch.

Specialty Clutch Loosen/Tightening Tools

Clutch nut tools are specifically designed for certain scooter clutches that use a castellated nut. Similar to the wall top of a castle, a castellated nut has edges that go up and down. The clutch nut tool fits into these grooves to tighten or loosen the securing nut holding the clutch to the crankshaft.

Clutch pullers work the same way as a gear puller. The center of the tool positions on the end of the crankshaft. The clutch puller arms then positions behind the loose clutch and pulls the unit off the crankshaft arm without damaging it or the engine case.

Standard Tools

Socket wrenches and sockets see the most frequent use in tightening or loosening a clutch in a scooter engine. Because of the angle of the securing nut, a regular wrench cannot be used. The socket, instead, sits over the nut and is forced in direction or another by the socket wrench that attaches to the socket.

Screwdrivers sometimes provide a blunt but effective holding tool if they can be positioned correctly to stop the clutch from spinning when its being worked on. The risk, however, is that the hard metal of the screwdriver pressures against the soft metal of the aluminum scooter engine case, denting it.

Compression Tools

For basket clutches, a compression specialty tool is needed. This device acts the same way as the engine by pressing the clutch basket together, allowing the retaining ring that keeps the assembly together to be removed easily. Then the clutch plates and springs that are worn out can be replaced.

General Motors made an eight-cylinder 6.2 L diesel engine from 1982 until 1993. It was an optional engine that was most common on larger pickup trucks. The fuel injectors for this engine are on top of the engine, and each injector sends fuel to a cylinder in a specific sequence. The majority of the work of installing a fuel injector in a 6.2 L engine is removing the fuel lines so you can remove the old fuel injector.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine during the procedure. Remove the clip on the fuel return line, and detach the fuel return line from the fuel injectors.

2

Remove the air cleaner bracket from the valve cover with a socket wrench. Disconnect the crankcase ventilator bracket. Detach the fuel lines from the secondary fuel filter adapter and disconnect the secondary filter adapter. Release the clamp on the vacuum pump and move the pump aside to access the bolts for the intake manifold. Disconnect the intake manifold bolts and remove the intake manifold from the engine.

3

Cover the engine with GM part no. J-29664-1 to protect the open engine from debris. Disconnect the clips on the fuel injector lines from the loom brackets. Remove the fuel injector lines from the injector nozzles and place caps over the nozzles.

4

Detach the injector lines from the injector pump. Plug the open ends of the fuel lines with clean cloth to prevent contamination of the fuel lines.

5

Remove the fuel injector from the engine by turning the 30 mm hex portion of the fuel injector counterclockwise with GM special tool J-29873. Discard the gasket for the fuel injector.

6

Install a new fuel injector and gasket by turning the 30 mm hex portion of the injector clockwise with GM special tool J-29873. Tighten the injector to 50 foot-pounds with the special tool and a torque wrench.

7

Remove the cloth from the ends of the fuel lines and connect the fuel lines to the injectors. Tighten the retaining nut for the fuel line to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Complete the installation of the fuel injector by performing Steps 1 through 3 in reverse sequence.

Sophisticated computers that continuously adjust critical engine parameters control almost all modern car and truck engines. The crankshaft sensor is one of the numerous sensors that feed information to the computer.

Function

The crankshaft sensor sends information to the engine computer about the precise position and speed of the crankshaft. Because the crankshaft is attached to the pistons, information about its position allows the computer to determine the relative positions of all critical engine components, including pistons, belts and valves. This makes it possible to time the injection of fuel and the spark plug ignition for optimum performance and fuel economy.

Principle of Action

The crankshaft sensor consists of a metal disk positioned on the crankshaft and a detector that covers a magnetic coil. The metal disks movement past the coil causes a disturbance in the magnetic field, creating a stream of electric pulses that the computer uses to determine the speed and position of the crankshaft. The sensor does not produce direct data about the location and speed of the crankshaft; it sends raw data to the engine computer, which then calculates the desired values.

Malfunction

A malfunctioning crankshaft sensor can cause various disturbances including extended crank time during start-up, rough running, bucking, compromised fuel economy and stalling. If your vehicle is equipped with an on-board diagnostic computer, a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor will trigger an error code to inform you about the problem.

Your catalytic converter is the part of your vehicles exhaust system designed to reduce the amount of toxic emissions of gases that leave your car and enter into the environment. Because of increasing concerns about pollution, catalytic converters are among the most heavily legally regulated parts of your vehicle. It is illegal to modify or alter your catalytic converter in any way, so the only way to legally repair your clogged catalytic converter is to have an exhaust shop or certified mechanic replace it.

Instructions

1

Take your car to mechanics shop that specializes in exhaust problems and repairs. Have a certified professional mechanic evaluate your vehicles problem and determine definitively that its the catalytic converter causing it. The mechanic is not allowed to replace the catalytic converter unless he is able to thoroughly document a problem with it. No individual or mechanic is legally allowed to tamper with the converters mechanical workings in any way, theore the converter must be replaced. If your car has failed emissions test or state inspection, you should keep the documentation related to that as proof that there is a problem with the catalytic converter.

2

Determine if your car is still covered by the federally mandated catalytic converter warranty. This means if your car is less than eight years old or has fewer than 80,000 miles on it, the original manufacturer is responsible for replacing the catalytic converter free of cost. In this case, you should take all the documentation of the problem to your local dealers parts and service department and have them replace the catalytic converter free of charge under the warranty.

3

Have mechanic replace catalytic converter with an identical model. Youre not allowed to alter the design or change models from the original manufacturer installed catalytic converter. Once the converter has been installed, make sure your mechanic correctly fills out and submits the federally required warranty card. Keep all documentation for catalytic converter in case a problem arises later during emissions testing.

You can reset the trouble codes on your 1993 Volvo 850 right from your home garage, saving time and money. The On-Board Diagnostics I computer (OBD I) receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the car. The computer alerts you to any malfunction or service need by illuminating a warning or service light on the instrument panel. After the scan tool reads the codes, and after you have had the vehicle serviced or repaired, then you or your mechanic can reset the trouble codes by using the same OBD I scan tool.

Instructions

1

Located a port on the lower part of the drivers side dashboard near the hood release handle. This port should be the same size and shape as the connector on the OBD I scan tool. Plug the scan tool into this port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position, but dont start the engine. This will turn on the scan tool.

3

Wait for the scan tool to read the trouble codes. Look for a command that says "Delete Codes" or a similar command. Select this command. Wait for the scan tool to complete the task. It will indicate that it has finished by displaying "Command Sent" or it will return you to the main menu. Scan tools vary a bit according to which company manufactured it.

4

Unplug the scan tool and turn on the engine. Verify that all warning and service lights have shut off of the instrument panel.

Mercedes-Benz ML350 vehicles have been subject to various recalls for problems with power steering, accelerator pedals and trailer hitch manufacturing defects. Registered vehicle owners should have received notification of these recalls by mail with instruction on where to bring the cars for free repair.

Power Steering

In 2003, Mercedes-Benz recalled 211,000 M-class vehicles for a hose clamp defect that could result in loss of power steering fluid and ultimately damage the power steering pump. A subsequent recall was conducted in 2008 because, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), repairs performed on vehicles recalled in 2003 were not sufficient to prevent future power steering problems.

Accelerator Pedal

In December 2006, Mercedes recalled certain M-class vehicles for manufacturing defects in the gas pedals that could make it difficult for drivers to operate the accelerator. In January 2007, authorized dealers began inspecting and repairing the mounting nuts of the accelerator pedals on affected vehicles.

Trailer Hitches

In 2008, Mercedes recalled certain 2006-2008 model year GL and ML vehicles equipped with Flex-N-Gate trailer hitches for not meeting performance specifications. Per the NHTSA, the trailer hitch receiver may separate from the attachment bar and create a road hazard or crash.

Traffic accidents, floods, tinkering and dismantling are all ways that your car, a once-drivable on-road machine, could become a salvage vehicle according to Ohio standards. Auto insurance companies will appraise its value and determine whether to call the car a salvage or to put it back on the road. Once your vehicle is declared a salvaged vehicle, you must obtain a salvage title for it within 30 days. If you choose to repair it, you will need to reinstate the title before driving it on the road.

Instructions

Obtaining a Salvage Title

1

Locate the clerk of courts title office for your county and make an appointment.

2

Present your vehicles original title and the salvage certificate or document from the insurance company that states that the vehicle is a salvage vehicle.

3

Exchange the original title for the salvage title. A salvage title makes your car illegal to drive on any highway.

Rebuilt Salvage Title

4

Find the deputy registrars office for your county and ask for an inspection form for your salvaged vehicle.

5

Pay the titling fee and save the receipt, which you will have to show to the inspection facility.

6

Find a nearby inspection facility (see Resources) and make an appointment to have your vehicle inspected.

7

Present the receipts for all major components of the car that you have replaced. Bring the Ohio salvage title and the receipt and inspection form from the deputy registrars office.

8

Take the completed inspection form and Ohio salvage title to the clerk of courts title office in your county. Exchange the salvage title for an Ohio rebuilt salvage title, which makes the vehicle legal to drive on highways again.

Many motor vehicle accidents occur because other drivers and pedestrians dont see other vehicles until its too late. The daytime running lamp system on a 2004 Toyota Corolla turns on the headlamps at a reduced brightness level whenever the engine is running in order to combat this problem. This system helps other drivers and pedestrians to see the vehicle, reducing the likelihood of accidents and other potentially dangerous situations. In order to service the daytime running lamp system and make certain repairs, the daytime running lamp relay must be disconnected from the engines wiring harness.

Instructions

1

Turn off the engine and apply the Corollas parking brake. Shine a work light under dashboard, near the upper-right pedal area.

2

Locate the daytime running lamp relay; it is mounted on the right side of the foot well area. It is attached to the right under-dashboard wall, adjacent to the gas pedal. It is a small, square black relay and is third in a row of relays, furthest from the firewall.

3

Lift the locking tab on the relays connector with a small flat-head screwdriver and remove the relays electrical connector.

4

Start the engine and confirm that the daytime running lamps do not turn on. When youre done with your testing or repair, reconnect the daytime running lamp relays electrical connector and confirm that the lamps operate properly.

Introduced in 1975, BMWs 3 Series is the German automakers best-selling vehicle and currently comes in seven different body styles. Although the 2005 330Ci updated several features lacking on the 2004 model, it suffers from several design and mechanical issues.

Rear Seat & Cargo Room

Cars.com indicated that the 330Ci regular-top and convertible models do not have ample room in the backseat. Taller passengers will not be able to stretch their legs. The 330Ci convertible also suffers from lack of rear cargo room. The 330Ci convertible may not be suitable if you need to transport larger amounts of cargo.

Rear Axle Problem

MSN Autos reports moderate issues with the 330Cis rear axle seals. Damaged rear axle seals can result in oil leakage. Cost to repair a rear axle seal is approximately $135 for parts and labor per rear wheel (as of 2011).

Engine

MSN Autos indicates that the 3-liter engine of the 330Ci suffers from both water pump and valve cover gasket issues. A faulty water pump can cause your cars cooling system to malfunction. Cost to repair the 330Cis water pump is approximately $288 for parts and labor. A damaged valve cover can cause oil leakage. It costs approximately $157 for parts and labor to repair a valve cover gasket. (All prices as of 2011.)

Modern gasoline powered internal combustion engines operate by using a spark plug to detonate a fuel/air mixture in the cylinders. However, the 12 volt system that most vehicles use doesnt provide enough energy to create a sufficient charge to power the spark plug. Theore, an ignition coil is required to transform the 12 volt charge into a charge of up to 30,000 volts or more. If the vehicle begins to lose power or run badly, one possible cause is a faulty coil.

Instructions

1

Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the four bolts securing the engine cover to the engine.

2

Use a socket wrench and 8mm socket to remove the two bolts that secure the coil pack to the engine.

3

Pull the coil off the spark plug by pulling it straight off, using a twisting motion.

4

Disconnect the wire from the coil by pushing in on the green tab on the coil, and then pulling the wire off the coil pack.

The Ford Explorer is an SUV manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1990. It was introduced as a replacement for the Ford Bronco II. The Ford Explorer brake lights provide an essential contribution to the safety of the vehicle. If they burn out, they should be replaced immediately. Troubleshooting the brake lights is a simple procedure that only requires a few tools.

Instructions

Wiring Check

1

Turn off the engine of the Explorer. Open the rear door.

2

Use the screwdriver to unfasten the two screws behind the taillight assembly.

3

Remove the assembly from the vehicle. Check the electrical connection. Plug it in firmly. If the lights are still not working, there may be a problem with the bulb.

Bulb Replacement

4

Remove the socket from the taillight assembly.

5

Pull the bulb straight out. Use a paper towel to firmly push in the replacement bulb.

6

Place the taillight assembly back into the vehicle.

7

Reinstall the two screws, and close the rear door. If the lights still do not work, there may be an issue with the brake light fuses.

Fuse Replacement

8

Open the drivers side door of the Explorer.

9

Open the fuse block, located on the left side of the instrument panel.

10

Remove the fuse block cover, and locate the fuses numbered "3" and "7." If they are broken, pull them out with your hand.

11

Replace the fuses with a fuse of identical amperage.

12

Close the fuse block, and close the drivers side door.

You can adjust the rear brakes on your 2001 GMC Safari right in your home garage. This adjustment should be done periodically to lengthen the life of your rear brakes, to improve brake function, and to restore the function of the parking brake. This adjustment can be done in less than an hour and requires only a few basic tools that can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer. The adjustment procedure basically reduces the gap between the shoes and the drums, resulting in a higher brake pedal height and faster braking times.

Instructions

1

Put on work gloves and safety goggles.

2

Position two wheel chocks in front of each front wheel and two wheel chocks behind each front wheel to keep the car from moving while you work on it.

3

Put the floor jack under the rear differential and raise up the Safari until its higher than the jack stands. Slide the jack stands under the vehicles axle tubes next to each of the rear wheels. Lower your 2001 GMC Safari onto the jack stands.

4

Look for a rubber plug in the backing plate behind the wheel. Remove the plug.

5

Insert a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the star-shaped adjuster upward at the same time spin the rear wheel in a forward motion. Keep spinning the wheel and rotating the adjuster until you feel a slight drag on the wheel. Remove the screwdriver and reinsert the plug. Repeat this procedure for the other rear wheel.

6

Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and move them out of the way. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the wheel chocks. Take the GMC for a test drive to make sure the brake pedal height is higher and that the parking brake is tighter, clicking a maximum of six notches when you engage it.

A time-tested technique for removing small car-dents can often be accomplished with a household plunger. Small dents and dings are inevitable for some drivers, but you can quickly remove a dent if the damage is not severe. Keep in mind that the household plunger wont induce a miracle. A plunger will not help with a large dent, or one with extensive paint damage.

Instructions

1

Clean the area around the dent with soap and water, wiping away all dirt and dust. Use your cloth to completely dry the area. This will give you a better view of the dent and help determine whether it can be repaired via the plunger method.

2

Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the bottom rim of your plunger; this will allow it to form a better seal when you place the plunger over the dent. The tighter seal allows the plunger to create more suction.

3

Place the plunger directly over the dent and firmly push it into place. Make sure the plunger covers the entire dent.

4

Push in on the plunger to create suction. Quickly pull out with the handle to "pop" the dent.

5

Inspect the area to see if the dent popped out completely. If it is only partially repaired, repeat the process.

The SRT-4 is a sportier version of the Neon that the Dodge division of Chrysler produced from 2003 to 2005. The primary difference between the SRT-4 and the base model Neon is that the 4-cylinder 2.4-liter engine in the SRT-4 is turbocharged. This does not affect the fuel pressure regulator installation, as this procedure is the same for all Neons made from 2000 to 2005. The fuel pressure regulator in an SRT-4 is part of the fuel filter assembly.

Instructions

1

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the vapor pressure in the fuel tank. Take the relay for the fuel pump out of the fuse box located in the engine compartment.

2

Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Repeat this procedure until the engine fails to start to ensure you have removed the fuel from the fuel system. Detach the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine while replacing the fuel pump.

3

Press down on the quick-connect fittings for the fuel line and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter. Hold the locking spring tab on the fuel filter down and turn the fuel filter 90 degrees counterclockwise. Detach the fuel filter from the fuel pump and discard the fuel filters O-rings.

4

Lubricate the new fuel filter O-rings with engine oil and place them on the fuel filter. Place the fuel filter into its socket on the fuel pump so that the the hold-down tabs on the fuel filter align with the fuel pump flanges. Hold the fuel filter down as you turn it 90 degrees clockwise to lock the fuel filter into place.

5

Connect the fuel line to the fuel filter, then attach the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The heater core in a vehicle resembles a small radiator. When you turn on the heat in your car, engine coolant is redirected from the engine to pass through the heater core before heading to the radiator. The fan in your car blows the air over the heater core to heat it up. The air then flows into your car, warming the passenger compartment. In the 1991 Honda Accord, the heater core is located inside of the heater assembly, which is located behind the dashboard of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the battery to disconnect it from the engine. Drain all of the coolant from the cooling system into a sanitary container by removing the plug at the bottom of the radiator. Make sure the engine is cool before removing the coolant.

2

Remove the heater hoses going to the heater by loosening the clamps that are holding them on at the firewall. Remove the cable that is connected to the heater valve. Watch out for residual coolant that may be left inside of the hoses.

3

Take off the duct cover on the bottom of the heater assembly by prying out the snap-in screw with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the dashboard and the support pipe.

4

Remove the heater assembly by unbolting the four bolts holding it in and pulling it out. Take off the cover that is covering the heater core, and the clamp that is holding the heater core in place. Pull the heater core out of the heater assembly.

5

Insert the new heater core into the assembly and replace the clamp and heater core cover. Reinstall the heater assembly in the vehicle by placing it in its old spot and replacing the four bolts holding it in.

6

Reinstall the dashboard and the duct cover on the bottom of the heater assembly. Make sure you reconnect the heater hoses at the vehicles firewall and tighten their clamps accordingly. Replace the cable going to the heater valve.

7

Add the coolant back into the radiator making sure that it is full before starting the vehicle. Reconnect the battery wires and start the vehicle. Let the vehicle warm up to test the newly replaced heater core.

The Volkswagen New Beetle, like many other vehicles made in recent years, is equipped with a radio that requires a code to properly function after being disconnected from its power source. This feature is designed to make the radio as useful as a paperweight in the event of theft. The need for a radio code has served to reduce the theft of original equipment manufacturer (OEM) radios, but it also makes it annoying for owners who have removed their radios for various reasons, including replacement and service.

Instructions

Instructions

1

Find the VW owners manual in the glove box. Find the card inside the owners manual that contains the radio code. This code is provided when the car is first purchased from the dealership. In some cases, the card may be misplaced before or after the vehicle is sold to another person.

2

Look for the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) of the New Beetle if the VW owners manual does not contain the radio code. You can find the VIN near the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side of the vehicle. Write this information down on a piece of paper.

3

Remove the radio from the dashboard. You will need a set of radio removal keys, available for purchase at most car audio outlets. Insert the radio removal keys firmly into the two slots along the bottom edge of the radio then pull the radio out of the slot. Look for the radio serial number located on the back of the unit. This number will start with "vw4z7" or a similar identifier. Write this serial number down on the same piece of paper as the VIN for safekeeping.

4

Take the information written down to the nearest VW dealership and request that they find your radio code with the information provided. Both the VIN and radio serial number are required for the dealership to successfully find your radio code. Upon finding the radio code, write it down in the owners manual or someplace else where you can safely store it.

"A blown head gasket." Those words, and the accompanying repair parts and labor cost, are ice to the warm heart of any 2005 Civic owner. That pesky head gasket is so close to the heart of the engine. Repairing any head gasket is no small task, but it can be accomplished. This repair requires removing the cylinder head, a complicated and technical procedure--hence the high repair cost at the shop. If you are willing to replace your own head gasket, you can save substantial money by eliminating labor costs.

Instructions

Removing the Cylinder Head

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the radiator drain plug and drain the antifreeze. Drain the engine oil.

2

Disconnect any sensors immediately present around the valve cover. Label each disconnected wire, as well as the point you disconnected it from, so they will be easy to reconnect later. Remove the spark plug wires.

3

Remove the entire plastic air intake and filter assembly. Remove any coolant hoses near the cylinder head. Disconnect the EGR supply tube from the exhaust manifold and at the EGR valve. Gently remove any other sensors connected to the intake manifold.

4

Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head and from where it joins the exhaust head tube. After all sensors and vacuum tubes are disconnected from the intake manifold, unbolt and remove the intake manifold as well.

5

Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.

6

Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to a head bolt sequence diagram, and loosen the head bolts in reverse sequence. After loosening, fully remove the head bolts.

7

Remove the cylinder head. You may have to pry the cylinder head loose. This is best accomplished by driving a flat screwdriver or other wedge between the cylinder head and the engine block.

Installing the New Head Gasket

8

Scrape any remaining portions of the old head gasket from the engine block and cylinder head. Use a flat razor. Do not gouge the metal. Spray off the block and head with parts cleaner (brake parts cleaner works well for this). If any debris falls into the cylinders, clean it out with a shop cloth or paper towel.

9

Position the new head gasket on the engine block. It will only fit one way. Make sure it is clean and correctly fits all oil and coolant passages. Even the most reputable parts store may make a mistake and sell the wrong part from time to time, and this is one job you definitely dont want to do twice.

10

Check the cylinder head caully for cracks. A blown head gasket can cause overheating and head cracking or warping. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head to check for warping. The bottom of the cylinder head should fall in a perfect plane. See the Warnings section below.

11

Place the cylinder head back over the new head gasket. Be very gentle--tearing the new head gasket will cause it to fail (and this is one job you dont want to do again).

12

Coat the new cylinder head bolts with oil, and finger-tighten all 10 of them.

13

Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the correct torque in a multi-step process. Locate the correct torque figures for your engine. Most 2005 Civics came with D17 series engines. The engine type number is stamped on the upper portion of the engine block. Cross-erence the engine type number of your vehicle with a torque figure erence to ensure you are using the correct torque figure. If there is more than one torque figure available, tighten all the bolts to the first figure first, then all to the second figure, and so on until you reach the highest torque figure. The head bolts MUST be tightened in the correct sequence to ensure proper sealing of the head gasket and to prevent cylinder head warping.

Reassembly

14

Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft pulley are aligned to top dead center (TDC). Reinstall the timing belt.

15

Reverse the tear down instructions above to reassemble the upper portion of the engine.

16

Fill the radiator. Change the oil filter and fill the engine oil to the correct level.

17

Start the car and allow it to run for several minutes. After a few minutes, check the radiator fluid level--it may drop as fluid fills all the coolant passages in the engine block.

Rusted or damaged panels on a car can be costly to repair at an auto-body shop. Instead, save money by repairing the panels yourself using a metal inert gas (MIG) welder. When welding car panels, choose between tack welding and seam welding. To avoid trapping moisture in the panel and rusting the metal, you should use butt joints instead of over-lap joints. Since car panels are usually carbon steel, you can weld them using a flux-cored MIG wire electrode or a solid carbon-steel MIG wire with the use of shielding gas.

Instructions

Preparation

1

Remove the panel from your vehicle, if possible, by removing the bolts holding it to the cars frame with a wrench.

2

Disconnect your cars battery to prevent faults in the vehicles electrical components if you are not removing the panel from the vehicle prior to welding,. You should also ground your vehicle by connecting jumper cables or a heavy gauge wire from the metal frame of your vehicle to an exterior grounding source.

3

Remove any paint, rust or dirt from the panel using a metal grinder or a wire brush. You will not create a stable weld if there is residual paint on the panel.

4

Clamp the metal pieces together in place to prevent them from moving while welding.

Tack Welded Joints

5

If you are tack welding the panel in place, increase the voltage for your MIG torch to a higher setting than you would normally use for a seam weld. You should also use a smaller diameter wire for the tack weld to ensure good penetration of the weld bead throughout the joint.

6

Place your welding torch between 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch from the welding seam and arc weld a 1/4- to 1/2-inch tack weld. Repeat these welds every four to six inches until you have tacked along the entire joint seam.

7

Grind the tack joints smooth. If the tack joint is done properly, the parent pieces of metal and the joint metal should be indistinguishable from each other.

Seam Welded Joints

8

Load the appropriate gauge wire for a standard MIG weld for the thickness of your panel sheet. Refer to a MIG wire chart to determine the recommended wire type, voltage and wire speed for the weld.

9

Place your MIG torch at a 20-degree angle from vertical about 1/8- to 1/4-inch from the surface of the weld joint and start an arc weld by squeezing the MIG gun trigger.

10

Weld the panel together by slowly moving the torch along the seam in a circular pattern until you reach the end of the joint.

11

Grind the joint down to blend the joint and make a smooth surface to paint over.

The computer in a car generates an error code and turns on the "Check Engine Light" when it runs a diagnostic of one of the electrical circuits in the car and finds something that is out of bounds. Error code 441 refers to the part of the cars emissions system that deals with fumes in the gas tank. It has to be dealt with before the error code can be cleared.

Error 441

All fuel tanks allow the fuel inside to evaporate slightly. Before emissions controls, the car simply dumped the fumes into the outside air, increasing pollution. Cars with emission control systems send these fumes to a canister filled with charcoal to be stored. At intervals, the emissions system opens a valve in the canister and purges the fumes by drawing them through a hose to the engine. The computer chip checks the process by pumping air out of the system to see if the canister responds. If it doesnt, it reports error 441, which means that something has interfered with this process and the canister hasnt been purged.

Possible Causes of Error 441

The error could come about because of a faulty canister or switch, a broken or damaged hose, a failure in the computer chip that controls the purge or a break in the electrical circuit controlling the process.

Cures for Error 441

Depending on the cause of error 441, the cure could be replacing the pump that tests the system, replacing the canister or hoses, repairing or replacing a component in the electrical circuit, replacing or reprogramming the cars computer chip or replacing the vacuum switch controlling the flow of fumes from the canister to the engine.

Spray-in bed liners are designed to stick to the bed of your truck for a lifetime. But if the need arises to remove the liner, there are a few options. Accomplishing the task by hand is tedious and messy, but can be less expensive. Having the liner professionally removed is often the best bet to get the refinishing you desire while minimizing risk.

Instructions

1

Use your hand grinder -- with a very rough tip -- to manually grind away to bed liner. This method will create a lot of dust, so wear a dust mask. Be cautious, because grinding can take several hours of hard labor and might damage the body of the vehicle.

2

Use the hammer and chisel to remove pieces of bed liner that the grinder couldnt get. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask to avoid injury. This is often a time consuming step as well.

3

Apply chemical stripper to the bed if the above methods dont work for you. Most strippers come in 2-3 foot square sheets and must be applied overnight or longer. You may need to apply it more than once, while scraping off pieces of bed liner between applications. Note that the stripping material usually has disposal regulations clearly marked on the side of the packaging.

4

Repaint your truck bed (if necessary) to match the rest of the vehicle once all the bed liner has been stripped off.

5

Contact a local dealer that provides "soda blasting" and painting services if the by-hand methods did not work or are unattractive to you. Professional soda blasting gently wears off the bed liner, decreasing the need for body work and minimizing possible paint damage.

Invented in the post-WWII auto boom, the MacPherson strut independent front suspension system provided automakers with a low-cost, more compact suspension design. Since then, many high-end and popular cars have relied on MacPherson struts for their performance needs, especially in Europe where smaller cars have become the standard.

History

Tasked with designing a smaller, more cost-effective and lighter alternative to Chevrolets 1940s lineup of heavy body-on-frame cars, Earle MacPherson, chief design engineer of Chevys "Light Car" project, designed what would become known as the MacPherson strut, and filed for a patent in March, 1947. This revolutionary independent front suspension design became a standard on many of Fords European cars after MacPherson left Chevrolet for Ford in late 1947, but didnt make its way into domestic Ford products until the 1970s.

Design

MacPhersons simple design relied on a spring-loaded strut to provide vertical wheel travel while also serving as a link control. The steering gear attaches directly to the shock housing. Unlike the eras widely used double-wishbone independent suspension systems, which required upper and lower control arms for each wheel, MacPhersons design employed only a lower control arm -- saving weight and space in the engine compartment.

Disadvantages

While the lighter, cheaper MacPherson strut system has clear advantages, there are drawbacks as well. MacPherson struts require a lot of vertical shock tower space, can be expensive to replace and force wheels to lose camber as the car body leans -- negatively affecting performance.

When an automobiles power windows wont go up and down, several things could be the cause. A faulty switch or bad wiring are two examples. The electric window motor should also have a close look taken at it when power window problems begin to surface.

Assessment

An electric window motor can be tested to see if its the reason a vehicles window wont go up and down. A fused jumper wire can function to send power past the switch and right to the window motor. If the motor doesnt respond, it will need to be replaced.

Repair

Using a voltmeter allows you to verify power is traveling from the fuse box to the switch, and from the switch to the window motor. Loose connectors can prevent voltage from reaching the motor and will have to be tightened.

Replacement

Because the interior door panel has to be taken off to reach an electric window motor, replacing them can be considered tricky on some types of vehicles. After removing the door panel, now the rivets holding the window motor in place will have to be taken out using a drill. The replacement motor will have its own rivet set for installation.

Manufacturer car recalls can range from serious mechanical failure such as brake or engine issues to less severe problems like a faulty knob or light. Nevertheless, keeping your car current with recalls is important to maintain the vehicles safety. Manufacturers will send out a recall notice and there are searchable databases on the Internet to check on recall statuses, but the only way to check recall information using the vehicle identification number (VIN) is to search the manufacturer database.

Instructions

1

Write down your VIN. The 17-digit VIN will be located on the dashboard of the drivers side near the windshield. You can also find the VIN on the front of the engine block or the front of the vehicles frame in the wheel base.

2

Contact your local dealerships service department or a repair shop certified by the manufacturer of your car.

3

Ask the associate in the service department to run your VIN through the manufacturer database for any outstanding recall information. Running the VIN through the manufacturer database will provide specific information for your vehicle.

Removing the battery from your PT Cruiser requires removal of the air cleaner assembly before you can access the retaining bolt on the battery-retaining bracket. The air cleaner and the battery sit on the drivers side of the engine compartment, one behind the other. Removing the old battery may be necessary if the battery is not holding a charge and it needs to be tested or if you need to access parts or components below the battery and battery tray.

Instructions

1

Locate the air cleaner housing just behind the battery on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Unsnap the two clips that secure the top to the bottom of the assembly and lift the top off. Set it aside for now.

2

Lift the air cleaner element out of the lower portion of the air cleaner assembly. Set it aside, then grasp the side of the lower assembly, pull it straight up and remove it from the engine compartment.

3

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal, using a wrench to loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end, and lift it off the terminal. Isolate it from the battery terminals, then remove the positive cable in the same way.

4

Locate the retaining bolt on the upper-rear of the battery. Remove the bolt with a wrench, then lift the retaining bracket off the battery. Lift the battery out of the car.

Volkswagen diesel engines made since 1991 use Turbocharged Direct Injection, or TDI. The 1.9-liter version of this engine appears in various Volkswagen models made since 1995, including the Golf, Jetta, Passat and New Beetle. TDI engines have a turbocharger and inject fuel directly into the cylinder. This is a mechanical method of fuel injection, which does not use an electronic controller to determine when the injector sends fuel to the cylinder.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box under the dashboard. Start the engine, and allow it to idle until it stalls. This will relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Turn the engine off, and replace the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Wrap a clean shop cloth around the fitting on the fuel line to the fuel rail. Remove the union nuts from the fuel line, and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the fuel rail with a socket wrench, and disconnect the fuel rail from the engine as an assembly. Turn the fuel injectors counterclockwise and remove them from the injector hole on the cylinder head. Remove and discard the heat shields from the injector hole.

4

Install new heat shields to the injector hole, and screw the new fuel injector into its hole. Tighten the fuel injector with a socket wrench, and install the fuel rail to the engine.

5

Connect the fuel line fuel rail, and fasten the union nuts for the fuel line with a socket wrench. Connect the negative battery cable.

Losing your car keys is never a great way to start your day, especially if youre without a spare car key. Fortunately, replacing your car keys is not a difficult process. If your car is an older model, the process is simpler than replacing keys on newer model cars with special transponder keys. To replace your keys you will need to contact your car dealerships service department to order a new key.

Instructions

1

Locate and make note of the vehicle identification number (VIN) on your car. If your car is a late model vehicle, having the VIN is imperative to have as it provides the key code to your specific car. The person cutting your new keys will need this code to cut them correctly for your cars ignition.

2

Contact a locksmith or your vehicle dealership to order a new key. A locksmith who works with car keys can help you if your car is an earlier model. If you have a late model vehicle with a transponder key -- a keyless entry system -- youll have to contact your car dealership. These keys are only available through authorized dealerships for security reasons.

3

Pick up your new key. Depending on your dealers inventory, your key might be in stock or your key might have to be ordered. Your dealership will program your new keys for you.

Carrying Away Engine Exhaust Gases

Headers are typically installed on cars by a vehicle owner seeking to increase the horsepower of his cars engines. Headers are simple exhaust tubes or exhaust pipes that allow for the faster exiting of burned engine exhaust gases. Traditional exhaust manifolds are somewhat restrictive to exiting engine exhaust gases and create a bit of engine backpressure, which reduces engine horsepower and restricts gas mileage. Headers, on the other hand, typically have larger exhaust tubing and special tubing designs that enable exhaust gases to exit a cars engine faster and in greater quantities. This leads to a reduction in engine backpressure and an increase in both engine horsepower and gas mileage.

Bolt Headers to Engine Exhaust Ports

Automotive headers, which take the place of factory-installed exhaust manifolds, simply bolt directly to an engines exhaust ports, which are the openings in a cars engine through which exhaust gases flow out. Headers have flat areas (header flanges) on their exhaust tubing ends that align directly against the side of a cars engine exhaust ports. Header bolts attach directly through the header flanges and create an airtight seal, through which exiting engine exhaust gases travel directly into engine headers.

Funneling Exhaust to Remaining Exhaust Components

As exiting engine exhaust gases flow through a set of headers, these exhaust gases are transported to the remaining components of a cars exhaust system. Headers, besides allowing exhaust gases to exit a cars engine faster and in greater quantities, serve to bridge the gap between the engine and its main exhaust system components. Normally, exhaust gases, after flowing through and exiting a set of headers, travel to a cars catalytic converter, where these exhaust gases are reignited and burned. After traveling through the catalytic converter, exhaust gases travel through a cars muffler and then out of the tail pipe.

The flutes that run up a drill bit direct metal shavings from a drilled hole. At the tip of each flute, sits a sharp point that can cause severe damage to automotive carpeting when drilling holes for seat belt mounting brackets. When the flutes grab the carpet, long threads of material will unravel and ruin the carpet. Another method of puncturing a hole through carpet causes no damage to the surrounding area, saving you the chore of replacing the carpet.

Instructions

1

Place the seat belt bracket in the location you need the hole.

2

Push the tip of a paint marker into the mounting hole located in the center of the bracket. Continue pushing the marker against the carpet until the hole is solidly marked. Remove the bracket.

3

Set a 5/16-inch leather punch on the carpet with the paint mark hole centered in the cutting head of the punch. Hit the shaft of the punch sharply four to five times until you hear the ping of the metal punch head contacting the floorboards of the vehicle. Remove the punch from the surface of the carpet.

4

Pull the hole cut from the surface of the carpet.

A donut gasket is often used to seal a vehicles front exhaust pipe and manifold connection. However, there can be donut gaskets used in other locations downstream in the exhaust system of certain vehicles. The shape of the gasket resembles a donut and it seals the exhaust pipe that has a ball flared end.

Instructions

1

Lift the vehicle all the way up on the car lift.

2

Put on the safety glasses and collect all the tools you need and place them in a handy location near you under the vehicle.

3

Determine if the front exhaust pipe is a Y-pipe. This would mean that it attaches to the engine at dual manifold locations on both the left and right side, then downstreams into a single chamber pipe. If this is the case, you will need to remove both front flange-to-manifold connections. If it is only a single-chambered pipe, you will only need to remove the single flange-to-manifold connection.

4

Set up the ratchet, extension and appropriate sized socket for the nuts on the manifold studs and make sure the ratchet is set in the reverse position.

5

Light the torch, choose one manifold stud nut to heat and heat it to a cherry red color. Quickly shut off the torch and apply the ratchet, extension, and socket to the nut and back it off the stud. If you feel any resistance, relight the torch and re-heat the nut some more so you do not break the stud.

6

Remove all the nuts from the manifold studs using this procedure. Take your time and be careful not to break any studs.

7

Put on the safety gloves and back the front pipe away from the manifold. Use the pry bar for leverage to help. In order to achieve this, you may have to remove some of the hangers downstream on the exhaust system to allow some movement and flexibility.

8

Allow the pipe and manifold to cool down some. Remove the old gasket and insert the new one.

9

Rethread or chase the manifold studs (once youve allowed them to cool) to clean the threads on them before replacing new nuts onto the studs.

10

Replace the nuts and tighten with the ratchet, extension, and socket.

Under-torqued hardware may loosen during use, while over-torqued hardware may fail or damage the assembly it is attached to. Torque wrenches provide the means to measure safe, exact tightening force on hardware to prevent such occurrences. These precision tools must be routinely calibrated and certified for continued reliable operation.

Purpose

Like any tool, torque wrenches wear over time. Depending on the type, they may contain tiny gears, teeth, springs, gauges and other moving parts. The more the tool is used, the quicker these parts need to be inspected and replaced.

Frequency

The recommended calibration frequency of torque wrenches varies by manufacturer. Six months to one year is the prevalent calibration cycle. The International Organization of Standards (ISO) 6789:2003 does not use calendar time to recommend calibration, instead providing a calibration standard of 5,000 cycles.

Procedure

Torque wrench calibration and certification involves a thorough inspection and test of the tool. Precise pressure is applied to the wrench while its effectiveness is measured. If the tool does not indicate proper torque at the specified pressure, it is cleaned, repaired and retested.

The crankshaft---a piece of a vehicle that is often called simply the "crank"---is a part of your Honda Civic that converts the reciprocating motion of your vehicles pistons into a rotating motion. Connected to the crank is a pulley that is used to transfer the motion of the crank into other parts of the car. A center bolt or screw holds this pulley in its proper location inside of your Honda Civics engine compartment. In order to replace or troubleshoot the crank pulley, you will need to remove this screw before you will be able to take off the pulley.

Instructions

1

Remove the battery cable from the negative---black---car battery terminal, using the proper size wrench for your vehicle.

2

Jack the car up and place jack stands under sections of the frame to securely support the Honda Civic off the ground.

3

Take off the splash shield located underneath the engine compartment by removing all necessary bolts. Ensure that the shield is well supported before you remove the last few bolts to keep the shield from falling on you or the ground.

4

Remove the drive belt from the Civics engine compartment.

5

Locate the crankshaft and crank pulley. Use a strap wrench wrapped in a shop towel or other soft cloth to lock the crank pulley in position.

6

Find the bolt in the center of the pulley and determine the proper size socket that should be used to turn the screw. Place the proper size socket on a breaker bar and turn the bolt counterclockwise to break it free.

7

Attach a ratchet to the socket or use a wrench to continue turning the crank pulley bolt until is is removed from its position.

All exhaust popping or backfiring on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle is caused by fuel combustion in the exhaust manifold or the header pipes. Generally speaking, it may be caused by a an exhaust manifold leak. Check for that by spraying light, penetrating oil on the exhaust manifold while your bike is running in neutral and look for bubbles. Most exhaust popping on a Harley is actually deceleration backfire. Deceleration backfire results from a chain of events that begins with reduced pressure in the cylinders. Conventional wisdom says the noise can be ameliorated by fattening the tune of the engine.

Instructions

1

Start the motorcycle in neutral. Close the petcock and run the Harley until the carburetor runs out of gas.

2

Remove the entire air cleaner assembly. Remove the cover with an Allen wrench. Use Torx drivers or sockets to remove the air cleaner.

3

Remove the breather tubes by hand. Remove the backing plate by unbolting the two retaining bolts with a socket wrench.

4

Unclip the choke assembly from its bracket under and on the left side of the gas tank.

5

Mark the throttle cables with masking tape and disconnect them. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the fuel line to the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver and disconnect the fuel line.

6

Gently pull the carburetor from the seal ring that attaches the carburetor to the intake manifold. Set the carburetor upside down on a bed of clean rags on a flat, stable surface.

7

Drill a 1/16-inch hole in the factory sealing plug that covers the fuel-air, low speed adjusting screw. Pry the plug out of the low speed adjusting screw well with a machinists awl (scratch awl). Note the location of the idle speed adjuster screw.

8

Reconnect the carburetor to the intake manifold by re-seating it in the rubber seal ring. Reinstall the air cleaner backing plate and air cleaner.

9

Reattach the fuel line and the two throttle cables. Snap the throttle to ensure the throttle cables are properly reconnected.

10

Open the petcock and start the Harley. Allow the motorcycle to run until the rocker head covers are warm to the touch before tuning the carburetor.

11

Insert a small, flat-head screwdriver into the low speed adjusting screw well. Turn the screw 1/8-turn counterclockwise.

12

Adjust the idle speed adjuster screw with the same tool until the engine begins to stumble. Turn the low speed adjusting screw another 1/8-turn clockwise.

13

Reattach the air cleaner. Test-drive the motorcycle.

Dealing with the catalytic converter on a vehicle tends to be time-consuming. Various federal and state laws mandate how these emission controllers must be installed, modified and removed and disposed. In Michigan, however, no specific laws deal with the disposal of catalytic converters, meaning you are free to dispose of it more or less how you please. The best and most profitable way is to recycle it.

Instructions

1

Locate a scrap yard in your area of Michigan that accepts used catalytic converters. The USA Catalytic Converter Directory provides a list of Michigan recycling and metal companies that recycle catalytic converters (See resources).

2

Take your catalytic converter to the recycling center or scrap yard you have chosen.

3

Request the scrap yard or recycling center to weigh the converter and assess its value, then accept payment for it. You will probably only receive a couple of dollars for it, but it will be properly recycled and diverted from landfills.

The Ford Econoline is a series of full-size passenger and cargo vans. The F-150 designation indicates the vehicle has a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The most common engine in a 1989 Ford Econoline F-150 is an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter engine. The oil pump on this engine is located on top of the engine near the front.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine. Detach the inlet tube from the oil pump and disconnect the screen assembly.

2

Remove the mounting bolts from the oil pump with a socket wrench. Pull the oil pump drive shaft from the body of the oil pump. Disconnect the oil pump assembly from the distributor socket and discard its gasket.

3

Fill the inlet and outlet ports of the new oil pump with engine oil and turn the oil pump drive shaft to distribute the oil through the pump. Align the oil pump drive shaft with the distributor shaft by rotating the oil pump drive shaft as required. Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor socket. Position the new gasket on the pump body and insert the oil pump drive shaft into the pump body.

4

Connect the mounting bolts to the oil pump and tighten them to between 22 and 32 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Install the screen assembly for the oil pump with a socket wrench and attach the inlet tube for the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the attaching bolts with a socket wrench.

A cars exhaust system is responsible for transporting the burned exhaust, or combustion gases, from its engine and out the tail pipe. The exhaust system is basically just a long tube attached to the engine and extending to the rear of the vehicle. However, there are certain components that enable the exhaust system to function properly.

Exhaust Manifold

A vehicles exhaust manifold is the upper end of the exhaust system. The exhaust manifold is attached directly to the side of the engine and is the first part of the exhaust system to receive the burned exhaust gases from the cars engine. The exhaust manifold, which is extremely hot, further burns any fuel that was inadequately burned by the engine and funnels it down into the main exhaust system.

Exhaust Pipes

The exhaust pipes make up the brunt of a cars exhaust system. The exhaust pipes, which can be metal or aluminum, are responsible for transporting the burned exhaust gases from the engine and the exhaust manifold and funneling them towards the cars tailpipe.

Muffler/Catalytic Converter

As a cars exhaust gases are transported along the exhaust pipes, they must pass through the muffler, which is an enclosed metal container responsible for "muffling" the sounds of the traveling exhaust gases, and the catalytic converter, which is an "after burner" responsible for igniting and burning any leftover exhaust gases not burned by the engine and exhaust manifold.

The Tail Pipe

The final destination for a cars exhaust gases is the tailpipe. The tailpipe is the end of the entire exhaust system, and it funnels the burned car exhaust out into the outside air, or atmosphere.

Loctite brand adhesives are used for a variety of purposes including an entire line of thread lockers. Thread lockers like Loctite 262 are designed to work by locking the threads of nuts and bolts together permanently. In some conditions that cause extreme stress, heavy-duty products like 262 are necessary. This product is appropriate for use in mechanical settings by the do-it-yourself mechanic who needs an extremely good bond or industry professionals working in environments where machinery is exposed to extreme conditions.

Instructions

1

Clean all surfaces being put together with Loctite cleaning solvent and allow to dry completely.

2

Shake the Loctite 262 thoroughly before use.

3

Apply several drops of Loctite 262 onto the bolt at the nut engagement area for holes that pass all the way through. Do not contact the tip of the applicator to the metal to avoid clogging.

4

Drip the product down the internal threads of a hole for blind applications. This is where a hole does not completely pass through a work piece.

5

Run a 360 degree line of product around the male threads of a fitting leaving the first thread clean for sealing applications. This is where the Loctite 262 needs to fill all the voids in the threads. In this application force the product into the threads to fill the voids thoroughly. For larger applications the product can be applied to the female fitting as well. Force the male fitting into the threads.

6

Assemble and tighten fittings as required after the Loctite 262 is applied.

Glow plugs are used in vehicles that require diesel fuel to operate. Because glow plugs are exposed to extreme heat they can lose their voltage and become damaged quickly. If your cars glow plugs lose their voltage, you may find that your vehicle no longer starts. Even if the vehicle still starts, you may find that there are other operating issues. While a glow plugs voltage is usually checked by a professional in a garage, it can be done at home with the right equipment.

Instructions

1

Open the car hood and locate the glow plug relay. The glow plug relay is often found on the drivers side of the car behind the headlight. The location of the glow plug relay will depend on the vehicle. Glow plug relays are usually large, black and boxy, with a sticker that resembles a barcode. Several wires are attached to the glow plug relay.

2

Remove the glow plug relay lid and set aside. You will see several connectors and thick wires under the lid. Remove the largest connector by pulling up.

3

Set the multimeter to "ohms" and note the number on the display screen. That number must be subtracted from each glow plug voltage reading to get accurate results.

4

Connect the negative wire on the multimeter to the battery negative. The multimeter should be clearly labeled. Connect the positive wire to the multimeter and then insert the other end into each hole on the glow plug relay connector.

5

Read the meter to determine each glow plugs voltage. Refer to your vehicles user manual for recommended voltage levels.

Imagine that you have just finished filling the gas tank of your bright red Fiero and a few minutes after leaving the station your car sputters and shuts off as if it were out of gas. You hop out and look for leaking gasoline, but there is none to be found. You probably need to replace the fuel pump. The fuel pump moves the fuel from your tank to the engine, and when it stops working your car will shut off, as if it is out of gas. Learn how to remove a faulty fuel pump and you can avoid costly trips to the local mechanic.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump

1

Remove the wire connected to the negative battery terminal. The negative wire will usually be black in color and the terminal often has a minus sign.

Continue to Step 2 if your engines fuel injection type is throttle body injection. Usually, V4 Fiero engines are this type.

Skip to Step 3 if your engine is of the multi-fuel injection variety. Usually, V6 Fiero engines are this type.

2

Pull the fuel pump fuse out of your fuseblock.

Start your car and run it until it shuts off. This will happen after the gas in the fuel line has been depleted. Attempt to restart it to make certain the fuel is gone. Check that the ignition is in the off position and reset the fuel pump fuse. Continue to Step 4.

3

Locate the fuel rail on top of the engine. Attach your fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail valve. Wrap a rag around the fitting while you attach the gauge. Set the bleed hose of your gauge in to a gasoline-safe container. Open the valve and allow the gas to bleed from the fuel line. After the fuel has bled out, remove the gauge and cycle the ignition several times, with 10 seconds in between each cycle. After cycling the ignition, check for any leaks.

4

Lock the front tires of your vehicle in place with blocks. Initialize the emergency brake. Raise the rear of your car with a jack and place jack stands underneath.

5

Disconnect the fuel pump wire connector from the main wire harness located in the front of the engine compartment. Crawl under your Fiero and disconnect the fuel feed, fuel return, canister vent, the filler hose, and the breather hoses. Remove the heat shield covering the catalytic converter. Support the fuel tank with either a jack stand or another person and remove the support bracket and support straps. Lower the fuel tank with the front end of it tipped down.

6

The fuel pump is locked in to the fuel tank by a set of cams. Turn the inner ring clockwise using a brass punch and a hammer. After you have unlocked the fuel pump, carefully pull it out of the fuel tank.

The Buick LeSabre was a full-size car throughout its production from 1959 to 2005. The last version included the 2000 through 2005 models, which were only available with a 3.8-liter engine. These cars have a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, installed on the crankshaft to minimize the vibrations caused by its spinning. The crankshaft balancer in a Buick LeSabre is an integrated part of the crankshaft pulley, so you should not attempt to separate the two components.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting accidentally. Detach the accessory drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

2

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench.

3

Hold the flywheel in place with flywheel locking tool "J-37096". Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft with a socket wrench.

4

Mount the balancer remover "J-38107-A" to the crankshaft balancer, and fasten 1/4-inch bolts to the pulley. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench to remove the balancer from the crankshaft.

5

Coat the sealing surface of the crankshaft balancer with a light layer of engine oil. Mount the balancer onto the crankshaft, and hold the flywheel in place with flywheel locking tool "J-37096". Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer to 111 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the bolt another 76 degrees with a socket wrench.

6

Replace the right front wheel with a lug wrench, and lower the vehicle. Attach the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley and connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.

The clutch transfers torque to the transmission of a vehicle by engaging the engine to the gearbox. A clutch kit contains two parts of the clutch system.

Clutch Problems

General use over time can lead to clutch problems such as slipping and failing. Other common problems include the clutch making noise, the clutch pedal sticking and a clutch that will not release. A faulty clutch system must be replaced.

Components

A clutch kit contains a clutch disc and a clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc connects directly to the vehicles transmission. The disc creates friction against the pressure plate and flywheel, and allows power to flow from the crankshaft to the transmission. The pressure plate rests against the clutch disc and is bolted to the flywheel. A series of springs allows the plate to flex and create friction when the clutch is engaged and to release when the clutch is disengaged.

Things to Know

In addition to replacing the components in the clutch kit, many mechanics recommend replacing the pilot bearing or pilot bushing and the release bearing. The flywheel should also be resurfaced. Vehicles requiring high torque and old clutch systems should be replaced with a performance clutch system.