Repair 7

Air (pneumatic) suspensions are one of three basic types of suspensions, the other two being spring and hydraulic. While air suspensions do offer ride-height adjustability, the air-bag springs that they utilize to suspend the vehicle are slow to respond and dynamically inferior in almost every other way.

Handling

The standard air suspensions primary problem is that the user must reduce pressure in the air bag to drop the car and increase pressure to raise it. This results in a car that handles like a barge when its lowered and bucks like a concrete bronco when its set higher -- exactly the opposite of what youd want.

Heavy and Complicated

Air suspensions require a network of air hoses, junction regulators and control valves to function and an air compressor to fill the bags. While lighter than an equivalent hydraulic setup, these parts can add over 100 lbs. to the car, depending on compressor size. Moreover, every junction is an opportunity for leaks.

Slow Response

Air is elastic, meaning that it has mass and doesnt like to change direction. Air suspensions cannot respond to changes in road conditions with anything approaching the speed of an equivalent magneto-rheological (MR) dampener. An MR dampener uses a magnet to thicken the metallic fluid inside its body, allowing the cars computer to change ride firmness at the speed of electricity.

The GM and Hydra-Matic made TH400 is an automatic transmission. Also erred to as the "Turbo 400," the TH400 is considered very durable and of high quality, according to the auto experts at Novak-Adapt.com.

History

The TH400 started out in 1964 when it was used in Buicks and Cadillacs. After a few years in cars, GM began putting the Turbo 400 in trucks in the 1970s. In 1990 GM changed the name to the 3L80, though the transmission is still being used in GMs heavy-duty vehicles and in military applications.

Specifications

The TH400 weighs 135 lbs and is 24.37 inches long. Encased in smooth cast aluminum casing, the Turbo 400 is GMs largest automatic transmission and features a 3.48, 1.48 and one gearing.

Variations

GM created two alternate variations of the TH400. The TH475 was used in GMs most heavy-duty trucks starting in 1971. The TH375, used between 1972 and 1976, was used in cars with small displacement.

Potential

According to Novak-Adapt, the Turbo 400 is a popular transmission often used in Jeep conversions. Theyve also been used in GM vehicles, Rolls-Royces, Jaguars and even Ferrari models.

If the headlights on your Pontiac Grand Am are malfunctioning, they should be fixed immediately. Malfunctioning headlights reduce road visibility and make it difficult for other drivers to see your vehicle on the road in darkened conditions. Troubleshooting the headlights on your Grand Am is a simple process that involves checking the wiring, checking the bulb, and checking the fuse of your headlights.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Grand Am. Remove the keys from the ignition.

2

Lift up on the two retaining clips securing the headlamp assembly.

3

Pull the headlamp assembly out of the mounting bracket. This will reveal the electrical connector. Lightly tug on the electrical connector. If it comes out, plug it into the rear of the headlamp assembly. Make sure it is secure by lightly tugging it again. If the headlights are still malfunctioning, there may be an issue with the bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector and completely remove the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

4

Rotate the bulb assembly retainer counterclockwise and pull it out.

5

Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. Remove the old bulb and place the new bulb into the assembly.

6

Reattach the wiring harness to the bulb assembly. Place the bulb assembly back into the headlamp assembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place. Reattach the electrical connector.

7

Place the headlamp assembly back into the mount bracket. Press down on the two retaining clips to lock the headlamp assembly into place. Repeat on the other side headlamp if necessary. If the headlights are still not turning on, then there may be an issue with the headlamp fuses.

8

Open the underhood fuse block on the drivers side of the vehicle. Simply lift the cover on the fuse block to access the fuses. Underneath the cover is a fuse puller tool and several replacement fuses.

9

Locate the fuses numbered "50" and "51." "50" is the right-hand headlamp fuse and "51" is the left-hand headlamp fuse. Check to see if the fuses are broken. A fuse is broken if the metal inside the fuse is no longer in one piece. If either fuse is broken, use the provided fuse puller tool to remove the fuse. Replace it with an identical 15 amp fuse.

10

Place the cover back onto the fuse block. Close the hood.

Fuel pump failure will stop a car in its tracks. An engine sputtering and shutting off is the most notable sign of pump failure. If there is gas in your tank and your car sputters and shuts down you may need to replace your fuel pump. The fuel pump is located inside your gas tank and it can be replaced within two to five hours with all of the proper tools.

Instructions

Relieve Fuel Pressure

1

Remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the gas tank.

2

Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump assembly that is located behind the fuel filter hose, if you have a model with port fuel injection. The fuel filter hose is near the fuel filter just in front of the back tire on the passengers side.

3

Run the engine until it uses all of the remaining fuel and stops running.

4

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Remove Fuel Tank

5

Siphon gas out of your tank or use the fuel up if it is more than one-eighth full. Use a siphon pump to siphon fuel out of your vehicle. Insert one hose end in to the gas tank and the other in to a fuel-safe container. Pump the fuel out of the tank into the container.

6

Engage the emergency brake and block the front wheels. Raise the back of your vehicle up with a jack and place it on jack stands. Remove the jack.

7

Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump assembly if you have not already done so. Disconnect the vapor return hose, the filler neck, and the vent tubes. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, and the fuel-return hose as well.

8

Support the fuel tank with the jack and remove both restraining straps. Lower the tank until you can access the wires and remove the ground strap and the wire.

9

Lower the fuel tank to the ground and bring it out from under your car.

Remove the Fuel Pump

10

Using a punch and hammer, gently tap the inner ring counter clockwise until the inner cams are free.

11

Pull the fuel pump out of the tank. Make sure not to bump it on anything because the fuel level float and the fuel sending unit are delicate and even a small bump will render the readings inaccurate.

12

Check the o-ring on top of the fuel pump and the filter on the bottom of it. If the o-ring is cracked or dry, replace it. If the filter cannot be cleaned, it must be replaced.

Solvent-based clear coats are used in the automotive industry to add gloss and protection to a colored paint. The most resilient clear coat products are made from urethane because of the hard, durable surface that it provides. Urethane application requires the correct equipment.

Mixing

Urethane products are used alongside a hardener and a thinner to promote fast drying times and an effective flow of material. Waxed measuring cups can be used for mixing small quantities but those completing repaints will require aluminium mixing pots, measuring sticks and ultra-fine grade filters to remove traces or hair, grit or other debris.

Spraying Equipment

Modern urethane products are applied using HVLP spray guns. Clear coats are atomized during the spraying process and this procedure is optimised by using the correct fluid tip set-up inside the gun. A compressor should be used and an air pressure regulator is required to help control material output.

Drying and Cleaning

Ideally, urethane products should be applied in a professional paint booth where low-bake facilities are provided. If this is not possible, ultra violet light stands are available to help promote faster drying times in ambient temperatures. Cellulose thinners should be used in HVLP spray guns to help clean and remove all traces of urethane products.

The rear seal for your cub crank is found right behind the main bearing journal on your vehicles crankshaft. This seal is used to keep the oil inside the crankshaft and the oil pan. If you have noticed oil leaking from the back of your vehicles crankshaft, you probably need to replace this seal. Having a mechanic replace this seal could easily cost $200 to $300. However, if you do it yourself, you can replace the seal for about $50.

Instructions

1

Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it. Remove the oil nut with a nut driver and allow the oil to drain into a drain pan. Use the nut driver to remove the radiator fluid nut from the engine. Allow the radiator fluid to drain into another drain pan.

2

Use a wrench to remove the motor mounts from your engine. Disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud from your engine. Use a wrench to unbolt the engine from the vehicles transmission if needed.

3

Use a jack to raise the engine off of the engine mounts. Use a wrench to remove the oil pan from the engine. Pull the oil pan from the engine and use a nut driver to remove the bolts from the oil pan.

4

Pry the bearing cap off of the oil pan with a putty knife. Make sure that you do not scratch the crankshaft. Use a brass punch to remove the upper part of the seal. Tap the brass punch with a hammer until the seal comes off of the oil pan.

5

Install your new seal to the oil pan. Rotate the crankcase shaft while holding the seal on the oil pan. Use a sealer to make sure that your new seal will retain the oil. Reinstall the oil pan on the engine. Use your nut drivers to secure the oil pan bolts on the engine.

6

Lower the engine and remove the jack. Reinstall the transmission to the engine. Reinstall the fan shroud, the fan and the radiator hoses on your engine. Replace the motor mounts to secure the motor in place. Refill the engine oil and the radiator coolant.

Toyota introduced the MR2 in 1985, intending to offer the look and feel of an exotic sports car for the fraction of the price. The first generation of the vehicle ran from 1985 to 1989; the second generation ran from 1991 to 1995, when Toyota discontinued it. Toyota offered the convertible MR2 Spyder from 2000 to 2005, but it was technically a different vehicle and should not be confused with the original MR2.

Caster

The ideal setting for the caster angle on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +3.25 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The caster angle was not adjustable on the rear wheels of the vehicle because it came with a fixed rear axle.

Camber

The ideal setting for the camber angle on the front wheels of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was -1.0 degree but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the camber angle on the rear wheels was -1.58 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Toe-in

The ideal setting for the toe-in on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +0.1 degree but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the rear end was +0.4 degrees but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) and Turning Angle

The ideal SAI for the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +13.8 degrees but it could range by 0.8 degrees in either direction. The ideal turning angle was 37/32 degrees but it could range by 1.5 degrees in either direction.