Repair 7

Cylinder-head porting is the burring down the exhaust ports and intake of an internal combustion engine so that air flows through more smoothly. Porting brings the engine to maximum efficiency and is necessary for high-power output of modern engines, such as in racing vehicles. Most porting tips are made of carbide or another heavy-duty metal.

Non-Ferrous-Cut Burr

Non-ferrous-cut burrs are used primarily on soft materials such as aluminum, reinforced plastics and soft steel. They have a flat, high-flute finish for fast stock removal and easy chip flow.

Cylinder-With-End-Cut-Carbide Rotary Burr

The cylinder-with-end-cut-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, harder materials as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and less vibration. The diameter of the burr is 3/8 of an inch.

Double-Cut Burr

Double-cut burrs are for use on harder materials. They can be used at slow speeds and reduce the size of chips. A double-cut burr has left-hand flutes to reduce the pulling action.

Tree-Carbide Rotary Burr

The tree-carbide rotary burr is made of solid carbide and comes to a point at the end. It is a double-cut burr used on ferrous materials. The diameter of the head is 3/8 of an inch with a 3/4-inch length of cut.

Ball-Nosed-Cylinder-Carbide Rotary Burr

The ball-nosed-cylinder-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, hard metals as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and slivers. The diameter of the burr head is 3/8 of an inch.

Inverted-Cone-Carbide Rotary Burr

The inverted-cone-carbide rotary burr is made of solid carbide with a flat end. It comes in double-cut and alternative-cut burrs and is used on ferrous materials. The diameter of the head is 3/8 of an inch with a 3/4-inch length of cut.

Ball-Nosed-Cone-Carbide Rotary Burr

The ball-nosed-cone-carbide rotary burr is for use on ferrous, harder materials as well as rubber and fiberglass. It uses right- and left-cut spirals for a fine finish with small chips and less vibration. The diameter of the burr is 3/8 of an inch with a 1-inch length of cut.

Working on an engine in a closed shop can be deadly. The exhaust fumes produced by burning high-octane fuel should be removed by installing proper ventilation -- especially when engines are running.

Instructions

1

Install wall vents at one end of the shop. Most garage shops have a thin tin shell that can be cut with a jigsaw to attach wall vents. Install vent tubes through the insulation or sheet rock, if necessary. Install one tube every 12 feet per running vehicle. If more running vehicles are contained in the shop, install additional vents as needed to pipe fresh air in the enclosed space.

2

Install wall vents at the other end of the shop. This wall will be the exhaust wall and will have a wall fan to continuously draw toxic fumes out from the shop. Cut a hole through the wall with your jig saw and mount the exhaust fan directly to the metal or wood frame of the wall using screws.

3

Position a floor fan to blow toward the exhaust vents. Place it near the intake vents and let it blow through the work area and towards the exhaust wall at the other side of the shop. Turn on the wall exhaust fan to displace more CFM (cubic feet per minute) of shop exhaust when running the engine in the enclosed shop.

4

Collect dangerous exhaust directly from the tailpipe using a metal garbage can, Cut a hole in the bottom of the can big enough to fit the end of a hose on an industrial vacuum cleaner. Place the base of the vacuum outside and run the end of the hose to the can, pointing it at the exhaust pipe. Run the vacuum and use the can to remove shop exhaust.