Repair 7

Take your car to mechanics shop that specializes in exhaust problems and repairs. Have a certified professional mechanic evaluate your vehicles problem and determine definitively that its the catalytic converter causing it. The mechanic is not allowed to replace the catalytic converter unless he is able to thoroughly document a problem with it. No individual or mechanic is legally allowed to tamper with the converters mechanical workings in any way, theore the converter must be replaced. If your car has failed emissions test or state inspection, you should keep the documentation related to that as proof that there is a problem with the catalytic converter.

Determine if your car is still covered by the federally mandated catalytic converter warranty. This means if your car is less than eight years old or has fewer than 80,000 miles on it, the original manufacturer is responsible for replacing the catalytic converter free of cost. In this case, you should take all the documentation of the problem to your local dealers parts and service department and have them replace the catalytic converter free of charge under the warranty.

Have mechanic replace catalytic converter with an identical model. Youre not allowed to alter the design or change models from the original manufacturer installed catalytic converter. Once the converter has been installed, make sure your mechanic correctly fills out and submits the federally required warranty card. Keep all documentation for catalytic converter in case a problem arises later during emissions testing.

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the bike is upright and level, but not elevated.

Drain all primary fluid from the primary chain case drain plug on the bottom of the chain case. On recent models, the plug is a hex nut and should be loosened with a socket wrench.

Remove the top and rear inspection cover screws on the racetrack-shaped inspection cover in the middle of the primary cover. Remove these screws with an Allen socket. Remove all eleven primary cover screws around the perimeter of the primary chain case cover with an Allen socket.

Remove the primary chain case cover, the cover gasket and both tower gaskets. Discard all three gaskets.

Disassemble the clutch pack until you can remove the diaphragm spring. Replace the standard diaphragm spring with the diaphragm spring in the reduced effort clutch kit.

Replace the primary cover gasket with a new gasket. Replace both tower gaskets with new ones.

Reinstall the primary chain case cover. Tighten all eleven primary cover screws with an Allen socket and torque wrench. Tighten the screws to between 108 and 120 inch-pounds.

Replace and tighten the top and rear inspection cover screws with an Allen socket and torque wrench. Tighten the inspection cover screws to between 84 and 108 inch-pounds.

Drain the transmission through the transmission drain plug using a socket wrench and hex socket.

Remove the six clutch release cover screws with an Allen socket and socket wrench. The clutch release cover covers the transmission. Squeeze the clutch lever on the handlebars two or three times to break the clutch release cover free.

Remove the clutch release cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.

Pull up the clutch cable adjuster boot near the middle of the clutch cable to expose the clutch cable adjustment nut. Loosen the lock nut with an open-end wrench.

Completely loosen the clutch cable adjustment nut with an open-end wrench. Unscrew the cable fitting from the clutch release cover.

Note the position of the retaining ring opening in the upper left quadrant of the clutch release cover. Remove the retaining ring around the inner ramp with snap ring pliers.

Wash all ball and ramp mechanism components in cleaning solvent.

Replace the original inner and outer ramps with the replacement inner and outer ramps included in the kit. Screw, but do not tighten, the clutch cable fitting into the clutch release cover.

Place the new outer ramp in the side cover and place the three original ball bearings in the outer ramp slots. Re-seat the retaining ring with snap ring pliers.

Connect the end of the clutch cable to the ramp coupling. Install the coupling on the replacement inner ramp. Position the inner ramp and coupling in the clutch release cover.

Install a new clutch release cover gasket and replace the clutch release cover. Tighten all six screws to between 84 and 108 inch-pounds with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

Tighten the clutch cable fitting with an open-end wrench to approximately 40 inch-pounds of torque.

Replace and tighten the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench and hex socket. Replace and tighten the primary chain case drain plug using a socket wrench and hex socket.

Refill the transmission with the amount of transmission fluid specified for your motorcycle in your owners manual. Readjust the clutch cable adjusting nut with an open-end wrench until there is no more than 1/8-inch of free play in the clutch handle.

Lock the adjusting nut in place by tightening the lock nut with a second open-end wrench. Recover the clutch cable adjusting nut assembly with the rubber boot.

Remove the clutch cover in the primary chain case cover by loosening the five Allen bolts with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the clutch cover gasket and discard.

Add primary chain case fluid until the fluid just touches the bottom of the clutch plates. Install a new clutch cover gasket, replace the clutch cover and tighten with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

Carefully lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Allow the motorcycle to lean left on the jiffy stand.