How to Remove Straight Shot Baffles

Saturday, June 7, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Remove Straight Shot Baffles

Vance & Hines makes aftermarket replacement and performance exhausts for several motorcycle brands. The companys "Straight Shots "appear at a glance to be old-fashioned straight pipes, but the exhausts actually measure 1-3/4 inches in diameter by the engine and 2-1/4 inches at the tail. Baffles are a component in automobile and motorcycle exhausts that restrict how easily engine exhaust gases can escape. Engines need some exhaust back pressure to work efficiently, but baffles also restrict the potential power that can be realized in any motorcycle engine. All Vance & Hines exhausts come with replaceable baffles.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the worm clamp screws on the heat shields on both exhaust pipes with a flat head screwdriver. Heat shields partially insulate riders and passengers from very hot exhaust pipes. Worm clamps are simple devices that are tightened or loosened by turning a screw.

    2

    Remove the heat shields. Some Vance & Hines exhausts allow baffle replacement by just loosening and turning the heat shields, but the shape of Straight Shot heat shields prevents them from turning.

    3

    Lay on your back and locate the two Allen head screws on the bottom of the exhaust, in rear of the seam where the header pipes and tailpipes connect. The rear screw is called the baffle screw.

    4

    Remove both baffle screws using an Allen wrench and save them.

    5

    Stick the jaws of a pair of pliers about one inch into the rear of each pipe. Close the jaws and pull the baffle out of each pipe.

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How to Install a Cam in a 350 Motor

Friday, June 6, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Install a Cam in a 350 Motor

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

    1

    Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

    2

    Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

    3

    Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

    4

    Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

    5

    Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

    6

    Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

    7

    Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

    8

    Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

    9

    Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

    10

    Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

    11

    Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

    12

    Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

    13

    Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

    14

    Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

    15

    Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

    16

    Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

    17

    Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

    18

    Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

    19

    Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

    20

    Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

    21

    Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

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How to Troubleshoot a Dodge Intrepid Transmission

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How to Troubleshoot a Dodge Intrepid Transmission

If the transmission is not working as it should in your Dodge Intrepid, then you might be very worried. People have the misconception that when you have issues with a transmission it will be very costly to fix. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be performed even by someone with little mechanical ability. Set aside about two hours to troubleshoot your Dodge Intrepid transmission.

Instructions

    1

    Look at the ground where you regularly park your Dodge. If you have a puddle of red transmission fluid under your Intrepid, then you have a transmission leak. This is most likely the reason why your transmission is acting up.

    2

    Lift up the hood on your Dodge and pull out the transmission dipstick. The transmission dipstick is located on the drivers side of the engine. You will see that the dipstick is identified with the word "transmission" on the top of it.

    3

    Start the engine of your Dodge. Pull out the dipstick and wipe if off with the paper towel. Put the dipstick back in and take it right back out. You will see two different level lines on the dipstick. One will read "full hot" and the other "full cold." Make sure that the fluid level is correct for cold since you have not driven or warmed up the transmission yet. If you have low fluid, then this is the reason for your transmission malfunction.

    4

    Follow the dipstick tube down to the transmission. Locate any wires connected to the transmission. If you have any broken or disconnected connections, this could be why your Dodge Intrepid transmission is failing.

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How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

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How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

    1

    Take out the fuel filler cap.

    2

    Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

    3

    Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

    4

    Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

    5

    Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

    6

    Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

    7

    Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

    8

    Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

    9

    Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

    10

    Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

    11

    Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

    12

    Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

    13

    Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

    14

    Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

    15

    Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

    16

    Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

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The Disadvantages of Spur Gears

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The Disadvantages of Spur Gears

Spur gears, the most common type of gear, are often used because they are the simplest to design and manufacture, and are the most efficient, as well. Spur gears have straight teeth that are situated parallel to the gear axis. They are most commonly used in power tools and robotics applications. Although they are common and efficient, spur gears have disadvantages as well.

Noise

    Spur gears are very noisy when used at some speeds because the entire face engages at once. Thus, theyre known as slow-speed gears. Helical gears, in comparison, operate almost silently.

Strength

    Spur gears are not as strong as some other gears. They cannot handle as much of a load because the teeth are small and situated parallel to the gear axis, rather than being large and situated diagonally as the teeth on a helical gear are.

Non-Parallel Shafts

    Spur gears can only be used to transfer power between parallel shafts. They cannot transfer power between non-parallel shafts.

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Identification of a Ford FE Cylinder Head

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Identification of a Ford FE Cylinder Head

The FE, or Ford-Edsel, family of Ford engines included some of Fords biggest powerhouses, including the 360, 390, 427, and 428 big blocks. Identifying the cylinder heads on these engines requires a combination of identification techniques, beginning with locating the casting number.

Casting Numbers

    FE cylinder head casting numbers are stamped directly on the top of the head itself. On the passenger side, they are between cylinders two and three- driver side numbers are between cylinders six and seven. Casting number C9XX was manufactured in 1969. "C" represents the 1960s ("D" for the 1970s, and so on), "9" is the decade year followed by vehicle model and engineering codes. A Ford parts department may be able to further help you determine each characters meaning.

Differences

    The heads of the 428 Cobra Jet, the 390 High-Performance, the 390 GT and the 427 need further identification differentiation. The Cobra Jet has larger ports than both 390s and has either vertical or diagonal exhaust manifold bolts. The 390 High-Performance head has larger ports than the 390 GT. The 427 head can have low, medium or high riser lengths.

Other Considerations

    Most FE heads are interchangeable. Modifications are done for performance reasons, and performance specifications differentiate most FE-series heads. As no one identification method positively identifies one from another, its generally necessary to measure ports, risers and valve sizes for cross-erence.

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How to Change the Battery in a Prius Key

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How to Change the Battery in a Prius Key

The Toyota Prius is a hybrid electric-gas, mid-sized vehicle. One of the standard features of the car is a keyless entry system and alarm transmitter that is built into the vehicles key. At times, you will need to replace the battery inside the Prius key.

Instructions

    1

    Push the latch on the top of the key to the left and pull the medal door key out of the plastic frame.

    2

    Turn the key over and press the key latch all the way down.

    3

    Push the back of the key in the opposite direction with your thumb.

    4

    Pull the top of the key all the way off.

    5

    Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding the battery in place and remove the battery.

    6

    Insert a new CR2032 battery in the battery holder and replace the Phillips screws.

    7

    Snap the top of the key back into place

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