Repair 7

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

1

Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

2

Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

3

Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

4

Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

5

Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

6

Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

7

Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

8

Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

9

Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

10

Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

11

Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

12

Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

13

Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

14

Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

15

Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

16

Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

17

Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

18

Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

19

Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

20

Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

21

Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

Pushrods are the longest and most visible pieces in a chain of mechanical components that connect a cam shaft inside a Harley-Davidson Evolution engine, with the rockers that open and close the exhaust and intake valves in a Harley cylinder head. The "lift" of these valves determines how much air and exhaust enters and leaves the cylinders. Within this chain of components, pushrods or rockers may be adjusted. It is easier to adjust pushrods than it is to pull apart the top of the engine. Harleys are shipped with non-adjustable pushrods, but the motor company does sell a set of quick install adjustable pushrods that bolt in as follows.

Instructions

1

Shift the motorcycle into top gear. Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground.

2

Cut the stock pushrods in half with a bolt cutter and pull them off the engine.

3

Remove both spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Shine a flashlight into the front spark plug well and look into it.

4

Slowly turn the rear wheel by hand until the front piston is at the top of its stroke.

5

Replace the O-rings, the lower pushrod covers and the spring cover keeper with new components supplied in the kit by hand using a flathead screwdriver when needed.

6

Loosen the locknut on all of the pushrods with an open end wrench and adjust them to their shortest length.

7

Install the pushrods with pushrod covers by hand, ensuring that the adjuster end of the pushrod is down and the ball end of the adjuster is in the tappet socket. Adjust the pushrods for your motorcycle according to the instructions in the kit.

8

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the sparkplugs with a sparkplug socket and socket wrench.

Volkswagen uses a camshaft position sensor on the 2002 Passat sedan to relay information about the camshaft position and engine speed to the electronic control module to determine ignition timing and fuel injection synchronization. Located on the cylinder head behind the upper timing belt cover on the 1.8-liter engine, the sensor is accessible for removal and replacement. Replace the sensor using basic hand tools.

Instructions

1

Locate the cam position sensor electrical connector on the timing belt cover just to the left of center of the engine. Unlock the connector retaining tab and pull the connector off the sensor.

2

Unlock the upper timing belt cover retainer clip at the top-right corner of the cover. Pull the top of the cover away from the engine slightly and disengage the upper cover from the tab in the lower cover. Lift the upper cover straight up and out of the engine compartment.

3

Remove the two camshaft sensor retaining bolts using a ratchet and socket. Pull the old sensor off the engine.

4

Make certain the tab on the faceplate on the end of the camshaft is properly indexed in its detent. Install the new sensor on the engine. Install the two sensor retaining bolts and torque them to 88 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

5

Position the upper timing belt cover on the engine. Engage the tab in the lower timing belt cover with the slot in the upper timing belt cover. Snap the upper cover into place. Install the camshaft sensor electrical connector and ensure the retainer locks in place.

The Mazda B Series is a line of pickup trucks that Mazda Motor Corporation has manufactured since 1961. The number in the model name indicates the displacement of the engine, so the B2200 has a 2.2-liter engine. This engine has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing belt to coordinate the opening and closing of the cylinder valves. The replacement of the timing belt in a 1989 Mazda B2200 is part of its routine maintenance schedule.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and detach the accessory drive belts. Disconnect the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the A mark on the camshaft pulley with the timing mark on the camshaft housing. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

3

Detach the spring for the timing belt tensioner with a pair of brake pliers. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and remove the tensioner. Disconnect the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Place a T-wrench onto one of the housing bolts for the camshaft pulley. Place another T-wrench on the mounting bolt for the pulley and disconnect the mounting bolt. Remove the camshaft pulley from the camshaft.

5

Install the new timing belt and align the timing marks on the camshaft pulley if necessary. Ensure that the timing belt engages the teeth on the sprockets of the camshaft, crankshaft and belt tensioner.

6

Install the mounting bolt for the belt tensioner and tighten it by hand. Install the tensioner spring, and loosen the lock bolt for the belt tensioner with a socket wrench.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns and align the timing marks. Tighten the locking bolt on the timing belt to between 28 and 38 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the timing belt tensioner to adjust the tension on the timing belt. The timing belt should deflect by about 12mm when you apply a force of 22 lbs. to the longest span of the timing belt.

8

Replace the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and attach the accessory drive belts. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

You can install a windshield on your 1973 Camaro with the help of a friend. Chevrolet introduced the Camaro to North America in 1967 as a competitor to Fords Mustang. The windshield keeps the roof from collapsing during an accident. It also helps keep you from being thrown from the vehicle. To do this job, you need some supplies that can be found at most auto parts stores. To save money, call your local auto wrecking yard to see whether it has any 1973 Camaro windshields in good condition.

Instructions

1

Fit a gasket around the new windshield. Make sure the slit on the gasket will be facing the outside of the Camaro once the windshield has been installed.

2

Run a line of sealant along the half channel all around the gasket.

3

Wipe some petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove, adding some extra to the top and bottom center of the gasket. Line a nylon cord around the outer groove starting at the bottom center of the gasket. Leave a piece of cord at the start and end point.

4

Put on your work gloves, and have your helper put on work gloves. Together, put the windshield into the windshield frame from outside the vehicle. Push the nylon cords into the Camaro so they are resting on the dashboard.

5

Pull one cord out and around the frame to pull the gaskets lip inside the car. At the same time, have your helper press the gasket onto the outside edge of the windshield frame.

6

Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.

Sportsters come equipped with rear directional signals installed to the rearmost hole of the rear fender trim. The disconnectible turn signals leads branch off the rear wiring harness inside the rear fender. Sportster turn signals are usually relocated or reinstalled to accommodate saddlebag mounts. Sometimes the turn signals are changed for purely aesthetic reasons. Signals can be shaped like Maltese Crosses, skulls, spades and other outlaw icons. In some jurisdictions it is legal to run only "whisker" turn signals which are integral to the license plate frame. The wiring is approximately the same for all these installations. The Harley rear turn signal relocation kit installs with moderate ease.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster on a motorcycle jack high enough for the rear wheel to hang down. Set a flashlight or shop light under the rear fender so you can see what youre doing.

2

Unbolt the seat mounting bolt just behind the seat with an Allen wrench. Pull the seat up, back and off.

3

Loosen and remove the black battery cable from the negative battery post with an open end wrench.

4

Pry the small plug from the tail light access hole on the rear fender interior with a small screwdriver.

5

Pull the turn signal wiring harness inside the rear fender from the tail light housing. Unhook the signal wiring from the clips inside the rear fender.

6

Pull the two turn signal connections apart into male and female halves. Mark the socket halves with tape for future erence. Pull the turn signal wires from the two turn signal connections.

7

Loosen the screws on the rear of the fender trim on both sides of the Sportster with an Allen wrench. Remove the turn signals and the old mounting brackets from both sides of the bike.

8

Cut a piece of the shrink wrap tubing included with the turn signal relocation kit in half with a pair of shears. Slide the tubing over the exposed turn signal wires up to the signals for both sides of the Sportster. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

9

Push the turn signal lamps and wires on both sides of the fender completely through the small holes on both ends of the new taillight mounting bracket. Push the wires through the open holes in the rear fender trim.

10

Install the new turn signal brackets into the open holes on both sides of the fender by hand. Tighten the fender trim screws by hand.

11

Ensure the wires from both turns signals are inside the rear fender. Tighten the fender trim screws with an Allen wrench.

12

Connect the turn signal wires to the signal connections inside both sides of the fender. Arrange the turn signals so they face back and tighten the hex nut and washer on both signals with an open end wrench.

13

Connect the turn signal wires to the female half of both turn signal connectors on both sides of the fender by hand. Plug the female and male halves of the turn signal connectors back together by hand.

14

Push the loose wires and the gray tail lamp connector back into the tail lamp housing inside the fender. Replace the plug into the tail light access hole in the rear fender.

15

Route the turn signal wires along the inside edges of the fender and secure with cable ties.

Signs that indicate the need to replace a heater core include coolant in the floor area of the Ford Aerostar, and greasy film at the bottom of the windshield. If not replaced, windows will begin to fog and floor boards will begin to rust, which could lead to overheating due to loss of antifreeze. Replacing the heater core in the Ford Aerostar takes a couple of tools and a few of hours to complete.

Instructions

Replacing the Heater Core

1

Open the valve at the bottom of the radiator by removing the radiator cap to drain the cooling system. Always drain the coolant into a container that can be sealed and reused if its not several years old. When draining the coolant, remember animals are attracted to antifreeze, and will drink any that is left in an open container or on the ground. This will make pets sick and could be fatal.

2

Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core using tool T85T-18539-AH, to compress the couplers. The T85T-18539-AH tool or a comparable tool is available at most auto-parts stores; some auto parts stores offer the borrowing or rental of tools. The heater hoses connect to the heater core tubes on the fire wall passenger side of the engine compartment. Plug the heater hoses with small pieces of a rag to stop any coolant loss while removing the heater core.

3

While working in the passenger compartment, lay an old towel on the floorboard in case any coolant spills. Remove the six screws holding the heater core access door to the blower assembly; remove the access door. Depress the retainer clips at the top of the heater core and pull the heater core toward the bottom of the passenger seat, removing it from the blower assembly.

4

Remove the new heater core from the manufacturers box. Make sure it matches the old one. Position the new heater core caully into the blower assembly, snapping the top of the heater core into the retainer clips. Install the heater core access door to the blower assembly with the six screws that were removed.

5

Reconnect the heater hoses to the new heater core tubes inside the engine compartment. Push on the heater hose coupler until it locks. Tighten the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant. Start the Ford Aerostar, leaving the radiator cap off and turning the heater on high. Watch for coolant level to drop in the radiator, then turn the ignition off. Top off with coolant and replace the radiator cap.

6

This is a good time to check for leaks. Start the vehicle and let it warm up with the heater on high. While waiting for the vehicle to warm up, drain the coolant from the old heater core into a suitable container. Check for leaks at the hose connections and under the dash on the passenger side. If there are no leaks, discard the old heater core and towel from the passenger floorboard.

Society of Automotive Engineers fittings come in a variety of sizes. These fittings also come in adjustable and non-adjustable versions. This means that the adjustable fittings can be turned or oriented in a specific direction, whereas the non-adjustable fittings are used where there is no specific direction or other alignment needed. SAE fittings which use O-rings offer superior seals to the older, standard metal-to-metal fittings. Since fittings must be tightened to such high torque ranges, the threads are more apt to distort and fail. Installing these fittings does require a process, but the quality of seal difference is well worth the effort.

Instructions

1

Examine the components of the fittings very closely, looking for any warping or other design faults. Thoroughly lubricate the non-adjustable O-ring and threads with the hydraulic system fluid and wait a few seconds before making the connection.

2




Start the non-adjustable fitting into its port, taking the time to start it exactly straight. Turn it until it is finger-tight. Finish tightening the fitting to its chart-specific torque setting with the torque wrench and torque chart.

3

Connect the adjustable fittings by following the first two steps plus these additional steps. Orient the fitting so that you are looking directly at the open end. This is the end from which it is possible to see the nut, the washer and the O-ring. Turn the nut of the fitting assembly as far to the right as you can. Turn it clockwise.

4




Turn the entire fitting assembly into its female connection or port until the washer comes into contact with the nearest wrench pad with a wrench. Reverse the turn on the fitting with the wrench and turn no more than one single complete turn. Turn it less if the fitting can be set in the position it needs to be set without less than a complete 360-degree revolution.

5

Position another wrench on the wrench pad of the fitting so that the fitting stays put without turning at all. Holding the wrench on the wrench pad, torque the nut to the exact value you find for that size nut on the torque chart.

The fourth generation of the 1500 series pickup truck appeared in 1988 and was manufactured until 2000 by Chevrolet. There were a total of eight different versions and cab variations of the 1500. They were powered by reliable V8 engines that required periodic service if parts like the intake manifold gasket would fail.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Mark the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor for proper reassembly. Remove the distributor. Unplug the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve and the coolant bypass hose.

2

Pull out the fuel supply and return lines from the rear part of the intake manifold. Unplug the wiring harness and brackets. Remove the throttle cable and bracket. Remove the cruise control cable.

3

Take out the transmission oil level indicator tube. Remove the EGR inlet tube, clamp and bolt. Remove the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Unscrew the air conditioning compressor. Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bracket and slide forward, but do not remove it. Lay the A/C compressor out of the way. Do not kink the air conditioning lines.

4

Remove the power brake vacuum tube and the rocker arm cover. Remove the generator rear bracket bolt. Take out the intake manifold. Remove the old pieces of gasket from the gasket surfaces. Clean the excessive carbon buildup from inside the exhaust passages and the scale and deposits from the coolant passages. Inspect the manifold for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.

Installation Procedure

5

Position the new gaskets to the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and "This Side Up" facing up. Install the lower intake manifold on the engine. Apply sealer to the lower intake manifold bolts. Put in the lower intake manifold bolts back in place. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the first step apply 27 inch pounds of torque. In the second apply 106 inch pound of torque and in the last step tighten the bolts applying 11 foot pounds of torque.

6

Plug in the wiring harness connectors and brackets. Connect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Install the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Connect the coolant bypass hose.

7

Install the EGR valve and the valve rocker arm cover. Connect the fuel supply and return lines at the rear of the intake manifold. Plug in the wiring harness and brackets. Install the cruise control cable (if equipped).

8

Install the throttle cable and bracket. Put back the transmission oil level indicator tube. Install the EGR inlet tube, clamp, and bolt. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Install the power brake vacuum tube. Install the generator and the bracket bolt (if needed). Install the air conditioning compressor and bracket. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. Connect the distributor. Note the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor made at disassembly.

The Ford Mustang is an American muscle car which has been in continuous production since 1964. The 1993 Mustang GT was the last year of the third generation Mustangs which began production in 1979. This model has an eight-cylinder 5.0-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. Each cylinder has its own injector, which delivers fuel to the cylinder in a precise sequence. You can access the fuel injectors from the engine compartment, where they are located on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Attach fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

2

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Disconnect the electrical wiring harness for the fuel injectors. Release the retaining clips for the fuel lines to the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the fuel lines.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel injectors by lifting the fuel rail and gently rocking it back and forth. Disconnect the fuel injectors from the intake manifold in the same manner.

4

Remove the O-rings from the fuel injectors, and replace them if they show signs of damage. Lubricate the O-rings with engine oil and place them onto the new fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail and fuel injectors to the intake manifold. Ensure the O-rings are properly seated by pushing down on the fuel rail.

5

Tighten the retaining bolts for the fuel rail assembly to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel supply manifold and attach the electrical wiring harness for the fuel injector. Install the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Ford Expedition is a full-sized SUV produced by Ford as a replacement for the Bronco. The 99 Ford Expedition is a part of the vehicles first design generation. The heater core is located behind the dash board on the passengers side. While the heater core is being replaced it is a good idea to check the temperature blend door as well. Replacing the heater core is an involved project that requires most of a day.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a level surface and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Prop the hood open with the hood support.

2

Disconnect the bulkhead connectors at the back of the engine compartment and push them into the vehicle.

3

Pull down on the steering column panel and remove it. Remove the five bolts under the steering column panel with a socket wrench. There are two on both sides and one in the middle at the bottom.

4

Remove the bolts along the top of the dash, just under the windshield. Remove the bolts under the carpet, along the back of the passengers foot well.

5

Open the glove box and pull out enough that the clips pop free and the glove box stays open. Remove the two bolts holding the passenger airbag. Pull off the oval cover above the glove box and remove the bolt underneath. Remove the passenger airbag.

6

From outside, disconnect the evaporator case sample tub and the blower motor. These can be reached from the engine compartment, just in front of the passenger side door.

7

Reach inside the passenger fender well and disconnect the antenna lead. Push it through the firewall.

8

Remove the bolt in the rear corner of the passenger foot well. Grab the dash board on both sides and pull forward. This will usually require two people. Pull the dash board forward far enough to allow access to the heater core.

9

Remove the 14 bolts around the plentum case. Open the case and remove the two bolts that secure the heater core in place. Disconnect the tubes attached to the heater core with the quick disconnects. Remove the heater core from the vehicle.

10

Put the new heater core in the SUV and tighten the mounting bolts. Attach the hoses and push them on until the clamps snap closed. Close the plentum case and tighten all of the bolts.

11

Reassemble the dash board in the reverse order it was disassembled. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Close the hood.

Yamaha introduced the Road Star to compete for cruiser market share with Harley-Davidson. Harley discovered long ago that the biggest profits in the business were in accessories, after sales. Saddlebags are so basic to motorcycling that it might be reasonable to make them standard equipment on most cruisers, yet they are not standard on most Harleys. Yamaha modeled their after-sale marketing on Harleys, so people who buy a Road Stars also have to buy bags. Road Star owners can get the same style bags that Harley owners can. The bags are not interchangeable between the two brands, but the installation is basically the same between Road Stars and Harley Softails.

Instructions

1

Identify the fender trim on both sides of your rear fender. Put your hand inside the rear fender and feel for rear fender trim nuts. Not all Road Stars have nuts.

2

Lay out and inspect all the parts and hardware that came with your saddlebags. Read the instructions. Some saddlebags come with frames that you bolt to the fenders. You bolt the bags to these frames. Some bags come with brackets that replace the fender trim. Other bags bolt directly to the rear fender.

3

Working on one side at a time, unbolt the rear fender trim with a ratchet or box wrench and remove it. If the trim is attached with both bolts and nuts, use a box wrench to immobilize the nut inside the fender. Most Road Stars use hex-head bolts to attach the fender trim, so use a hex wrench to remove this bolt. Replace the fender trim with any frames or brackets included with the saddlebags. All motorcycles vibrate, so be sure to use maximum strength thread locker on all of the bolts.

4

Bolt, clip or fasten the saddlebag to the fender, frame or mounting bracket. Repeat on the other side.

The Chevrolet Corvette is a sports car that has been in production since 1953, and the sixth generation Corvette includes models made since 2005. The engine in a Corvette uses a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, to reduce the vibrations that the crankshaft makes when it spins rapidly. The crankshaft balancer in a late-model Corvette is a weight that fits on the end of the crankshaft. The procedure for installing the balancer is generally the same for all Corvettes made since 2005.

Instructions

1

Hold the flywheel in place with a flywheel locking tool, and detach the drive belts from their pulleys. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench.

2

Mark the crankshaft balancer and the crankshaft with white paint to indicate the correct position of the crankshaft balancer. Attach a puller to the crankshaft balancer, and pull it from the crankshaft.

3

Record the position of the weights on the crankshaft balancer. Remove the washer and weights from it.

4

Mark the new crankshaft balancer with white paint using the mark on the old balancer as a guide. Mount the weights in the new crankshaft balancer according to the notes made in the previous step. Install the washer on the new crankshaft balancer.

5

Place the new crankshaft balancer on the end of the crankshaft. Attach the balancer installer "J-41665" to the crankshaft seal installer "J-41478". Place the small end of the installer assembly into the balancer.

6

Hold the hex end of the threaded rod for the installer assembly with a box-end wrench. Turn the nut on the installer assembly clockwise with a second box-end wrench to mount the crankshaft balancer onto the crankshaft.

7

Remove the small end of the installer assembly from the crankshaft balancer, and place the large end of the installer assembly against the balancer to seat it onto the crankshaft. Remove the installer assembly from the crankshaft.

8

Fasten the old mounting bolt in the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the old mounting bolt with a socket wrench. Use a depth micrometer to ensure the crankshaft nose is recessed to between 0.094 and 0.176 inch within the balancer bore.

9

Fasten the new mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolt an additional 140 degrees with a socket wrench.

10

Attach the drive belts to their pulleys. Detach the flywheel locking tool from the flywheel.

A rivet nut contains an internal threaded sleeve surrounded by a thin exterior body. The exterior body dimples to hold the nut in a piece of material. The internal threads remain intact to accept a threaded fastener.

Instructions

1

Measure the diameter of the rivet nut.

2

Secure a drill bit 1/32 inch larger than the diameter of the nut into the chuck of a drill motor.

3

Drill a hole through the base material. Slide a round file through the hole to remove any burrs left by the drill bit.

4

Turn a rivet nut clockwise to thread it securely onto the mandrel of a rivet nut tool.

5

Slide the rivet nut into the drilled hole.

6

Hold the bottom nut of the rivet nut tool with an adjustable wrench. Turn the upper nut clockwise three to four turns with a second adjustable wrench to set the nut in the hole.

7

Hold the top nut in place with the second adjustable wrench. Turn the lower nut counterclockwise to release the tool from the installed nut.

The Honda Civic has been around for decades, bringing style, comfort and performance to the cost-conscious consumer. Honda has been offering fog lights as either an option or standard on all model Civics for years. If you own a 2001 model year Honda you may need to replace the installed fog lights because of an accident, wear and tear of an old vehicle, or simply because youd like to personalize the look of your car. Rest assured this is an easy job to do at home.

Instructions

1

Locate a flat level surface with enough light. This could be a garage, driveway or parking lot. Park your Civic there, shut off the engine and apply the parking brake so that the car is safe to crawl under. Let the engine bay cool to the touch before starting work.

2

Lay an old blanket under the front end of your 2001 Honda Civic. Then lie down and look underneath the car at the spot directly behind the drivers side fog light. Notice the plastic dust shield. Use a screwdriver to pry this off and set it aside.

3

Grab hold of the wiring harness that connects the Civics power system to the fog light socket. Pull this free from the socket. Using a wrench, remove the three mounting bolts that attach the light assembly to the Civics bumper.

4

Slide the old fog light assembly out. Slide in the aftermarket light in its place. Lock in place with the mounting bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Snap the dust cover back on. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light.

The six-cylinder, 5.9-liter Cummins diesel engine is most common in light to medium trucks, such as Dodge Ram pickup trucks made from 1989 to 1998. It produces a large amount of low-end torque and has better fuel economy than a larger eight-cylinder engine. The 5.9-liter Cummins engine uses a timing chain to drive the camshaft with the crankshaft, which requires a cover. The procedure for removing the timing chain cover is the same for all vehicles with a 5.9-liter Cummins engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the water pump and power steering pump from the engine compartment with a socket wrench. Disconnect the pulley from the crankshaft and pull the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft with a suitable puller.

2

Detach the fuel lines from the fuel pump with a socket wrench and disconnect the fuel pump. Remove the front mounting bolts for the oil pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the timing chain and remove the timing chain.

3

Clean the mounting surface for the timing chain cover with a shop cloth and install a new gasket to the cover. Apply a bead of RTV sealer 1/8 inch wide to the oil pan gasket.

4

Tighten the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Center the gasket on the oil pan and tighten the mounting bolts for the oil pan to 17 foot-pounds.

5

Coat the seal for the crankshaft damper with lithium grease and mount the damper to the crankshaft. Press the crankshaft damper to the crankshaft with Tool C-3688 and tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft damper to 135 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with a socket wrench.

6

Connect the fuel pump with a socket wrench and attach the fuel lines to the fuel pump. Install the water pump and power steering pump.

The 1986 Toyota Pickup belongs to the fourth generation of this series which was in production from 1983 to 1988. The most common engine for this vehicle is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine. The 1986 Toyota pickup uses a timing chain to drive the camshaft with the crankshaft. The timing chain may require replacement, although it can last for the lifetime of the vehicle. The most critical aspect of the timing chain replacement is keeping the timing marks aligned during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the alternator and oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the cooling fan with the water pump still attached. Disconnect the securing bolt for the crankshaft pulley and pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

2

Detach the water bypass hose to access the timing chain cover. Disconnect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt with a socket wrench. Remove the water outlet pipe for the heater.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and detach the cover. Separate the timing chain from the crankshaft damper. Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump drive from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a wrench until the crankshaft key aligns with the timing mark on the crankcase. Align the key way on the crankshaft sprocket with the key on the crankshaft and mount the sprocket to the crankshaft.

5

Mount the new timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket so that the single bright link on the chain aligns with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Mount the timing chain to the camshaft sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket is between the pair of bright links on the timing chain.

6

Place the drive spline for the oil pump over the key on the crankshaft and mount the gasket for the timing chain cover to the front of the engine block. Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise with a wrench to take up the slack on the timing chain.

7

Replace the cover for the timing chain. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the 10-mm bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer to the gaskets for the oil pan and timing chain cover.

8

Connect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt, and tighten its mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the water outlet pipe for the heater and the water bypass pipe.

9

Mount the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench. Attach the water pump and air conditioning compressor. Connect the oil pan and alternator.

General Motors manufactured its LT1 engine from 1992 to 1997. This eight-cylinder 5.7-liter engine is in a variety of vehicles from General Motors such as the Chevrolet Camaro. The water pump in an LT1 engine cools the cylinder heads first before flowing around the rest of the engine. This allows the engine to run at a higher compression ratio, but also makes a faulty water pump more harmful to the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the cooling fan. Remove the right cooling fan assembly with a socket wrench. Remove the left cooling fan assembly if your vehicle was made from 1996 to 1998.

2

Place a suitable container under the radiator. Remove the drain plug and knock sensor with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Install the knock sensor and drain plug.

3

Remove the air cleaner and air intake duct with a socket wrench. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the heater hose from the water pump and throttle body.

4

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the coolant sensor. Loosen the retainers for the ignition coil bracket, and move the ignition coil out of your way. Remove the air pump bracket and disconnect the air pump, if necessary.

5

Unfasten the water pump mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Detach the water pump and discard its gasket.

6

Mount the new gasket to the new water pump and install the water pump. Torque the water pump mounting bolts to between 30 and 32 foot-pounds. with a torque wrench. Install the air pump if you removed it in Step 4.

7

Fasten the ignition coil bracket with a socket wrench, and attach the electrical wiring for the coolant sensor. Connect the heater hoses to the throttle body and water pump. Attach the radiator hoses to the water pump.

8

Install the air cleaner and air intake duct with a socket wrench. Replace the cooling fans that you removed in Step 1, and connect their electrical wiring. Fill the radiator with coolant.

9

Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.

The General Motors 3800 engine is a 3.8-liter V-6. This engine is installed across a variety of GM vehicles, though is primarily found in the Pontiac and Buick vehicle lines. The 3800 engines fuel injectors operate in conjunction with a pressurized fuel system. At the top and bottom of each injector, an o-ring acts as a seal to ensure fuel does not leak. Damaged or degraded o-rings may cause fuel leaks and fire hazards. O-ring replacement is recommended if they are leaking or any time the injector is removed from the fuel rail or engine.

Instructions

Remove the Injectors

1

Remove the electronic plug from the fuel safety cut-off switch to turn off the fuel pump. The cut-off switch location can be found in your vehicles owners manual.

2

Depressurize the fuel system by attempting to start the car three times, for 3 to 5 seconds each time. Allow a 10-second pause between attempts to allow the starter to cool. Without re-pressurization from the fuel pump, the existing pressure in the fuel lines will be reduced due to fuel consumption by the engine.

3

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

4

Locate the fuel rails and remove any engine shrouds, intake tubes, vacuum lines or bolt-on accessories to allow access. Unbolt the fuel rail from the engine if your vehicles rails are secured.

5

Disconnect the fuel injector electronics plug. Disconnect the fuel rails by pulling upward and away from the top of the fuel injector. Some fuel will spill. Allow it to evaporate, or wipe it away, before continuing.

6

Pull upward on the fuel injector to remove from the engine. The fuel injector may need to be rocked slightly to allow the bottom o-ring to disengage.

Install the O-rings

7

Remove the o-rings from the injectors by sliding them off the top and bottom of the injector.

8

Wipe away any dirt or debris from the injector o-ring seal point.

9

Lubricate the new o-ring with a light coating of motor oil. The motor oil will not only make it easier to slide on, it will protect the o-ring once installed. Apply a small amount of motor oil to your finger and wipe over the entire surface of each o-ring.

10

Slide the o-rings onto the fuel injector.

Replace the Injectors

11

Push the injector into the engine hole until the o-ring is fully seated. A properly seated injector will resist removal.

12

Push the fuel rail or fuel line directly down on top of the fuel injector. Misaligned pressure may cause small tears in the injector creating future leak points. Connect all fuel injectors.

13

Replace the electronics plug on each fuel injector. Secure the fuel rail to the engine, if required. Attach any bolt-on accessories, vacuum hoses, and intake tubes. Reconnect the fuel safety shut-off switch electronics plug. Reconnect the car battery.

14

Turn the ignition switch to the electronics mode. Allow the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. With the ignition switch in the electronics mode, the pressurization should take 3 to 5 seconds. Turn off the key and repeat this step twice.

15

Inspect the fuel system for leaks. Return to Section 1, if necessary. Replace the engine shroud. Start the vehicle to confirm installation.

General Motors made an eight-cylinder 6.2 L diesel engine from 1982 until 1993. It was an optional engine that was most common on larger pickup trucks. The fuel injectors for this engine are on top of the engine, and each injector sends fuel to a cylinder in a specific sequence. The majority of the work of installing a fuel injector in a 6.2 L engine is removing the fuel lines so you can remove the old fuel injector.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine during the procedure. Remove the clip on the fuel return line, and detach the fuel return line from the fuel injectors.

2

Remove the air cleaner bracket from the valve cover with a socket wrench. Disconnect the crankcase ventilator bracket. Detach the fuel lines from the secondary fuel filter adapter and disconnect the secondary filter adapter. Release the clamp on the vacuum pump and move the pump aside to access the bolts for the intake manifold. Disconnect the intake manifold bolts and remove the intake manifold from the engine.

3

Cover the engine with GM part no. J-29664-1 to protect the open engine from debris. Disconnect the clips on the fuel injector lines from the loom brackets. Remove the fuel injector lines from the injector nozzles and place caps over the nozzles.

4

Detach the injector lines from the injector pump. Plug the open ends of the fuel lines with clean cloth to prevent contamination of the fuel lines.

5

Remove the fuel injector from the engine by turning the 30 mm hex portion of the fuel injector counterclockwise with GM special tool J-29873. Discard the gasket for the fuel injector.

6

Install a new fuel injector and gasket by turning the 30 mm hex portion of the injector clockwise with GM special tool J-29873. Tighten the injector to 50 foot-pounds with the special tool and a torque wrench.

7

Remove the cloth from the ends of the fuel lines and connect the fuel lines to the injectors. Tighten the retaining nut for the fuel line to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Complete the installation of the fuel injector by performing Steps 1 through 3 in reverse sequence.