Repair 7

The GM and Hydra-Matic made TH400 is an automatic transmission. Also erred to as the "Turbo 400," the TH400 is considered very durable and of high quality, according to the auto experts at Novak-Adapt.com.

History

The TH400 started out in 1964 when it was used in Buicks and Cadillacs. After a few years in cars, GM began putting the Turbo 400 in trucks in the 1970s. In 1990 GM changed the name to the 3L80, though the transmission is still being used in GMs heavy-duty vehicles and in military applications.

Specifications

The TH400 weighs 135 lbs and is 24.37 inches long. Encased in smooth cast aluminum casing, the Turbo 400 is GMs largest automatic transmission and features a 3.48, 1.48 and one gearing.

Variations

GM created two alternate variations of the TH400. The TH475 was used in GMs most heavy-duty trucks starting in 1971. The TH375, used between 1972 and 1976, was used in cars with small displacement.

Potential

According to Novak-Adapt, the Turbo 400 is a popular transmission often used in Jeep conversions. Theyve also been used in GM vehicles, Rolls-Royces, Jaguars and even Ferrari models.

If the headlights on your Pontiac Grand Am are malfunctioning, they should be fixed immediately. Malfunctioning headlights reduce road visibility and make it difficult for other drivers to see your vehicle on the road in darkened conditions. Troubleshooting the headlights on your Grand Am is a simple process that involves checking the wiring, checking the bulb, and checking the fuse of your headlights.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Grand Am. Remove the keys from the ignition.

2

Lift up on the two retaining clips securing the headlamp assembly.

3

Pull the headlamp assembly out of the mounting bracket. This will reveal the electrical connector. Lightly tug on the electrical connector. If it comes out, plug it into the rear of the headlamp assembly. Make sure it is secure by lightly tugging it again. If the headlights are still malfunctioning, there may be an issue with the bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector and completely remove the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

4

Rotate the bulb assembly retainer counterclockwise and pull it out.

5

Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. Remove the old bulb and place the new bulb into the assembly.

6

Reattach the wiring harness to the bulb assembly. Place the bulb assembly back into the headlamp assembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place. Reattach the electrical connector.

7

Place the headlamp assembly back into the mount bracket. Press down on the two retaining clips to lock the headlamp assembly into place. Repeat on the other side headlamp if necessary. If the headlights are still not turning on, then there may be an issue with the headlamp fuses.

8

Open the underhood fuse block on the drivers side of the vehicle. Simply lift the cover on the fuse block to access the fuses. Underneath the cover is a fuse puller tool and several replacement fuses.

9

Locate the fuses numbered "50" and "51." "50" is the right-hand headlamp fuse and "51" is the left-hand headlamp fuse. Check to see if the fuses are broken. A fuse is broken if the metal inside the fuse is no longer in one piece. If either fuse is broken, use the provided fuse puller tool to remove the fuse. Replace it with an identical 15 amp fuse.

10

Place the cover back onto the fuse block. Close the hood.

The rear seal for your cub crank is found right behind the main bearing journal on your vehicles crankshaft. This seal is used to keep the oil inside the crankshaft and the oil pan. If you have noticed oil leaking from the back of your vehicles crankshaft, you probably need to replace this seal. Having a mechanic replace this seal could easily cost $200 to $300. However, if you do it yourself, you can replace the seal for about $50.

Instructions

1

Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it. Remove the oil nut with a nut driver and allow the oil to drain into a drain pan. Use the nut driver to remove the radiator fluid nut from the engine. Allow the radiator fluid to drain into another drain pan.

2

Use a wrench to remove the motor mounts from your engine. Disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud from your engine. Use a wrench to unbolt the engine from the vehicles transmission if needed.

3

Use a jack to raise the engine off of the engine mounts. Use a wrench to remove the oil pan from the engine. Pull the oil pan from the engine and use a nut driver to remove the bolts from the oil pan.

4

Pry the bearing cap off of the oil pan with a putty knife. Make sure that you do not scratch the crankshaft. Use a brass punch to remove the upper part of the seal. Tap the brass punch with a hammer until the seal comes off of the oil pan.

5

Install your new seal to the oil pan. Rotate the crankcase shaft while holding the seal on the oil pan. Use a sealer to make sure that your new seal will retain the oil. Reinstall the oil pan on the engine. Use your nut drivers to secure the oil pan bolts on the engine.

6

Lower the engine and remove the jack. Reinstall the transmission to the engine. Reinstall the fan shroud, the fan and the radiator hoses on your engine. Replace the motor mounts to secure the motor in place. Refill the engine oil and the radiator coolant.

Driving any automobile is nothing, if not an exercise in constant blind faith. Just the fact that any soccer mom in the world can take a 50 mph curve without wondering what would happen if a tire blew, a ball joint broke or an axle-shaft snapped is testament to the pragmatic advantages of deliberate ignorance. Still, it never hurts to be prepared for any eventuality, especially if you find yourself in circumstances where breakage is likely.

Open Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

Most cars use "open" differentials, which route power to the wheel with the least traction. If you break an axle-shaft or constant velocity joint in a front-wheel drive car with an open differential while accelerating in a straight line, then power will simply flow into the broken axle and spin it. The engine will rev and the axle will spin, but the car wont move. The same goes for front axle-shafts in a 4WD truck, but if the axle tube itself breaks, then odds are that your truck will nose-dive into the road.

Locked Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

Many performance cars use locked, limited-slip or "torque biasing" differentials. Locked axles are just that; the left and right wheels always turn at the same speed. Limited-slip differentials can transfer some or all of the power to the wheel with the most traction -- the one spinning slower -- and torque-biasing differentials can transfer some, but not all of the power. With any of these differentials, the car will suddenly veer in the direction of the broken axle since the other wheel is the one doing all the pushing.

Open Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

If the axle-shaft is on the inside of a curve -- the right side for a right-hander, left for a left-hander -- while accelerating out of a curve, the vehicle will most likely dart inward toward the curve. Front-wheel drive cars and trucks in 4WD naturally exhibit a certain amount of understeer as the front tires struggle to both accelerate the car and keep it turning. Should the axle-shaft break on a front-wheel drive car, itll quickly-turn into a no-wheel-drive and probably exhibit neutral handling. A 4WD truck or all-wheel drive car will suddenly turn into a rear-driver, which can result in snap oversteer and a probable spinout if the driver doesnt lift off the gas soon enough.

LS or TB Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

Front-wheel drives with a limited-slip or torque biasing differential will exhibit a somewhat more severe oversteer condition as power flows from the inside tire to the outside. A clutch-type limited slip may induce a severe oversteer condition and possible spinout, if its powerful enough to transfer all of the engines power to one wheel. The same goes for all-wheel cars and 4WD trucks with an LS or TB differential, but far more so.

Locked Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

Fully locked front differentials will act a bit differently than those that allow the wheels to spin at different speeds. This is especially true off-road, which is the only place youre likely to see anything with a locked front differential. Cars have differentials because the outside tire has to turn faster than the inside tire; if you lock the differential, the inside tire will always spin while turning and contribute little to no traction. Under these circumstances, the truck may break either the inside or outside axle, depending on the conditions.

If the inside axle breaks, all the power will go to the outside tire, inducing an understeer condition. If the outside axle breaks, that tire will gain traction while the inside tire continues to spin, inducing a neutral to understeer condition. One caveat though, a locked differential may do exactly the opposite, particularly if the truck lacks the power to spin the outside tire while turning, or spin the inside tire during a tight turn.

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

1

Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

2

Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

3

Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

4

Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

5

Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

6

Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

7

Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

8

Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

9

Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

10

Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

11

Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

12

Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

13

Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

14

Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

15

Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

16

Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

17

Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

18

Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

19

Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

20

Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

21

Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

If the transmission is not working as it should in your Dodge Intrepid, then you might be very worried. People have the misconception that when you have issues with a transmission it will be very costly to fix. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be performed even by someone with little mechanical ability. Set aside about two hours to troubleshoot your Dodge Intrepid transmission.

Instructions

1

Look at the ground where you regularly park your Dodge. If you have a puddle of red transmission fluid under your Intrepid, then you have a transmission leak. This is most likely the reason why your transmission is acting up.

2

Lift up the hood on your Dodge and pull out the transmission dipstick. The transmission dipstick is located on the drivers side of the engine. You will see that the dipstick is identified with the word "transmission" on the top of it.

3

Start the engine of your Dodge. Pull out the dipstick and wipe if off with the paper towel. Put the dipstick back in and take it right back out. You will see two different level lines on the dipstick. One will read "full hot" and the other "full cold." Make sure that the fluid level is correct for cold since you have not driven or warmed up the transmission yet. If you have low fluid, then this is the reason for your transmission malfunction.

4

Follow the dipstick tube down to the transmission. Locate any wires connected to the transmission. If you have any broken or disconnected connections, this could be why your Dodge Intrepid transmission is failing.

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

1

Take out the fuel filler cap.

2

Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

3

Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

4

Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

5

Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

6

Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

7

Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

8

Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

9

Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

10

Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

11

Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

12

Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

13

Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

14

Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

15

Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

16

Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

The FE, or Ford-Edsel, family of Ford engines included some of Fords biggest powerhouses, including the 360, 390, 427, and 428 big blocks. Identifying the cylinder heads on these engines requires a combination of identification techniques, beginning with locating the casting number.

Casting Numbers

FE cylinder head casting numbers are stamped directly on the top of the head itself. On the passenger side, they are between cylinders two and three- driver side numbers are between cylinders six and seven. Casting number C9XX was manufactured in 1969. "C" represents the 1960s ("D" for the 1970s, and so on), "9" is the decade year followed by vehicle model and engineering codes. A Ford parts department may be able to further help you determine each characters meaning.

Differences

The heads of the 428 Cobra Jet, the 390 High-Performance, the 390 GT and the 427 need further identification differentiation. The Cobra Jet has larger ports than both 390s and has either vertical or diagonal exhaust manifold bolts. The 390 High-Performance head has larger ports than the 390 GT. The 427 head can have low, medium or high riser lengths.

Other Considerations

Most FE heads are interchangeable. Modifications are done for performance reasons, and performance specifications differentiate most FE-series heads. As no one identification method positively identifies one from another, its generally necessary to measure ports, risers and valve sizes for cross-erence.

The Toyota Prius is a hybrid electric-gas, mid-sized vehicle. One of the standard features of the car is a keyless entry system and alarm transmitter that is built into the vehicles key. At times, you will need to replace the battery inside the Prius key.

Instructions

1

Push the latch on the top of the key to the left and pull the medal door key out of the plastic frame.

2

Turn the key over and press the key latch all the way down.

3

Push the back of the key in the opposite direction with your thumb.

4

Pull the top of the key all the way off.

5

Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding the battery in place and remove the battery.

6

Insert a new CR2032 battery in the battery holder and replace the Phillips screws.

7

Snap the top of the key back into place

Pushrods are the longest and most visible pieces in a chain of mechanical components that connect a cam shaft inside a Harley-Davidson Evolution engine, with the rockers that open and close the exhaust and intake valves in a Harley cylinder head. The "lift" of these valves determines how much air and exhaust enters and leaves the cylinders. Within this chain of components, pushrods or rockers may be adjusted. It is easier to adjust pushrods than it is to pull apart the top of the engine. Harleys are shipped with non-adjustable pushrods, but the motor company does sell a set of quick install adjustable pushrods that bolt in as follows.

Instructions

1

Shift the motorcycle into top gear. Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground.

2

Cut the stock pushrods in half with a bolt cutter and pull them off the engine.

3

Remove both spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Shine a flashlight into the front spark plug well and look into it.

4

Slowly turn the rear wheel by hand until the front piston is at the top of its stroke.

5

Replace the O-rings, the lower pushrod covers and the spring cover keeper with new components supplied in the kit by hand using a flathead screwdriver when needed.

6

Loosen the locknut on all of the pushrods with an open end wrench and adjust them to their shortest length.

7

Install the pushrods with pushrod covers by hand, ensuring that the adjuster end of the pushrod is down and the ball end of the adjuster is in the tappet socket. Adjust the pushrods for your motorcycle according to the instructions in the kit.

8

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the sparkplugs with a sparkplug socket and socket wrench.

Hydraulic cylinders are found in automobiles, boats and other large equipment. Hydraulic oil or another pressurized fluid powers the cylinder and forces a piston located inside a barrel to move back and forth. The inner diameter of the barrel, where the piston moves, is known as the bore, and is a critical measure for the operation of the hydraulic cylinder. The lifting force of a cylinder is based on the size of the bore diameter multiplied by the hydraulic pressure. Measure the bore of a hydraulic cylinder to help calculate generated force.

Instructions

1

Disassemble the cylinder so that the bore is accessible. The exact procedure depends on the type of hydraulic cylinder. Clean any fluid from inside.

2

Twist the ratchet on the end of the telescopic bore gauge until the anvil and head are slightly larger than the opening in the bore.

3

Place the opened anvil and head against the bores opening at a gentle angle. Slowly straighten the bore gauge until the base of the instrument stands vertical and the head and anvil touch opposite sides of the bore wall. Rock the gauge gently in the bore to lock the anvil in place.

4

Remove the telescopic bore gauge from the bore. Measure the distance between the head and anvil with a micrometer or caliper to determine the diameter of the bore.

Oldsmobile is a brand of car manufactured by General Motors. The Oldsmobile models that were in production in 1989 include the 88, 98, Cutlass Supreme and Toronado. All of these vehicles use a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, to keep the crankshaft stable as it rotates. The crankshaft balancer is a weighted disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the harmonic balancer in a 1989 Oldsmobile is generally the same for all models, except for the components you need to remove to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine during the crankshaft balancer installation. Turn the drive belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Detach the drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

2

Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. This can include the shroud for the cooling fan, the cooling fan and the radiator, depending on the specific Oldsmobile model.

3

Disconnect the attaching bolt for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench. Attach a puller to the crankshaft damper, and pull the damper from the crankshaft. Release the puller from the damper.

4

Mount the new crankshaft damper to the crankshaft, and fasten the mounting bolt for the damper with a socket wrench.

5

Install the components you removed in step two to access the crankshaft. Mount the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, and turn the belt tensioner clockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

There are two oxygen or O2 sensors in the exhaust system on the 1995 Chevy Astro van. The process of changing the O2 sensors is the same whether it is the upstream or downstream sensors that you need to change, except that the location is different. These O2 sensors are critical to the proper operation of the fuel system and performance of the engine in your van. If you have a bad sensor, change it right away to correct drivability issues, hard stats and poor fuel mileage.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Chevy Astro with a jack and support it under the frame rails with a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the van is securely on the stands.

2

Locate the O2 sensors from under the van. The upstream sensor threads into the exhaust pipe coming down from the engine manifold. It is on the inside edge of the pipe, closest to the engine block. The downstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust system just forward of the catalytic converter.

3

Determine which sensor you need to change, and position yourself below it. Locate the wiring harness coming out of the back of the top of the sensor and follow it up to the connector where the sensors harness and the vans wiring harness join. Disconnect the two halves of the connector by releasing the locking tab and pulling them apart.

4

Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe using an O2 sensor socket and ratchet to turn the sensor counterclockwise until it is free from the threads. Discard the old sensor and install the new one into the threaded hole on the exhaust pipe using your hands to get it starter. This will help prevent cross threading.

5

Tighten the O2 sensor with your O2 sensor socket and ratchet. Run the wiring harness connector from the new sensor up to the connector on the vans wiring harness. Push the two halves of the connectors together until the locking tab engages. If you are replacing both sensors, move to the other sensor and repeat the process.

6

Raise the front of your Astro off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the stands from under the van then lower the jack, setting the van back on the ground. Test run the engine to verify the sensors are functioning properly.

You can reset the airbag or SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) computer on your 1996 Dodge Caravan right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The On-Board Diagnostics computer stores trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The Caravan alerts you to an airbag malfunction by illuminating the SRS light on the instrument panel. If you see this light, stop the vehicle and have it towed to your mechanic.



Once the airbag has been examined and replaced, you can reset the computer using a diagnostic reset tool. This is a small hand-held device sold at all auto parts retailers.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open the cover by turning the knob and pulling down.

2

Find the open port in the fuse panel that is the same size and shape as the diagnostic reset tool connector end. Plug this tool into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position but dont start the engine. Wait for the light to stop blinking on the reset tool. Once it has stopped flashing, the airbag computer will be reset.

The Isuzu Rodeo is a pickup truck manufactured from 1988 to 2002. A common engine for the 2001 model is a four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft (See Reference 1) (See Reference 2) . This engine requires a timing belt to keep the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The most important part of replacing the timing belt is ensuring that you keep the crankshaft and camshaft in the correct position during the procedure.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont inadvertently start the engine.

2

Turn the drive belt adjuster clockwise with a box-end wrench to relieve the tension on the the drive belt. Remove the drive belt.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the chassis wiring harness in the left rear quadrant of the engine compartment.

4

Disconnect the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley.

5

Remove the retaining nut that attaches the engine harness cover to the front of the engine, and detach the cover.

6

Remove the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft with the timing marks on the crankshaft housing.

7

Disconnect the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner from the engine. Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft.

Installation

8

Connect the timing belt tensioner and tighten the adjusting bolt by hand. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks if necessary.

9

Place a "J-43037" tool between the intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket of the camshaft to hold the camshaft in place while you install the timing belt.

10

Install the new timing belt while keeping the tension side of the belt taut. Turn the adjusting lever on the timing belt tensioner clockwise until the pointer on the tensioner moves to the center of the "V" notch on the tensioner housing.

11

Tighten the adjuster bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

12

Replace the front cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 53 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the engine harness. Connect the crankshaft pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs.

13

Install the drive belt and turn the drive belt adjuster counterclockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Volkswagen uses a camshaft position sensor on the 2002 Passat sedan to relay information about the camshaft position and engine speed to the electronic control module to determine ignition timing and fuel injection synchronization. Located on the cylinder head behind the upper timing belt cover on the 1.8-liter engine, the sensor is accessible for removal and replacement. Replace the sensor using basic hand tools.

Instructions

1

Locate the cam position sensor electrical connector on the timing belt cover just to the left of center of the engine. Unlock the connector retaining tab and pull the connector off the sensor.

2

Unlock the upper timing belt cover retainer clip at the top-right corner of the cover. Pull the top of the cover away from the engine slightly and disengage the upper cover from the tab in the lower cover. Lift the upper cover straight up and out of the engine compartment.

3

Remove the two camshaft sensor retaining bolts using a ratchet and socket. Pull the old sensor off the engine.

4

Make certain the tab on the faceplate on the end of the camshaft is properly indexed in its detent. Install the new sensor on the engine. Install the two sensor retaining bolts and torque them to 88 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

5

Position the upper timing belt cover on the engine. Engage the tab in the lower timing belt cover with the slot in the upper timing belt cover. Snap the upper cover into place. Install the camshaft sensor electrical connector and ensure the retainer locks in place.

The Ford Probe was a sport coupe manufactured from 1989 to 1997, with the second generation of this series beginning in 1993. The GT trim level was a sportier version of the base model, and included a six-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine requires a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshafts and crankshafts. The timing belt in a 1993 Ford Probe requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts on the right engine mount. Disconnect the engine mount and detach the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket must align with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must align with the timing marks on the cylinder head.

3

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place to avoid stripping the threads on the mounting bolts when you remove them. Disconnect the lower mounting bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench first, then disconnect the upper mounting bolt. Remove the mounting bolts on the number 1 idler pulley and remove the pulley. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Insert a tool handle of appropriate size into one of the camshaft sprocket holes to hold it in place. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

5

Shift your transmission into fourth gear and set the parking brake if your vehicle has manual transmission. Disconnect the dust cover for the flywheel with a socket wrench, and install a locking tool onto the flywheel if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket.

6

Align the dowel on the right camshaft with the slot on the right camshaft sprocket Installed the sprocket onto the camshaft and hold the sprocket in place. Fasten the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket and tighten it to between 35 and 48 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Repeat this step to install the left camshaft sprocket.

7

Align the key way on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the oil pump and install the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket to between 116 and 122 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place with a vertical press and push the adjuster rod into its hole to align the hole on the piston with the second hole on the case of the timing belt tensioner. Place a metal pin with a diameter of 0.063 in. into the second hole on the timing belt case to hold the piston in place.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, if necessary. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the sprocket back by one tooth.

10

Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, number two idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner pulley and right camshaft sprocket in that order. Apply pressure to the timing belt to hold it in place, and install the number one idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolt for the pulley to between 28 and 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the timing belt tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to between 14 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the pin from the timing belt case. Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to align the timing marks again.

12

Adjust the timing belt tensioner so that the deflection of the timing belt between the crankshaft and timing belt tensioner is 0.24 to 0.31 inches.

13

Connect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and install the right engine mount. Tighten the nuts for the engine mount to between 55 and 77 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the through bolt to between 63 in 86 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jacks supporting the engine, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Mazda B Series is a line of pickup trucks that Mazda Motor Corporation has manufactured since 1961. The number in the model name indicates the displacement of the engine, so the B2200 has a 2.2-liter engine. This engine has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing belt to coordinate the opening and closing of the cylinder valves. The replacement of the timing belt in a 1989 Mazda B2200 is part of its routine maintenance schedule.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and detach the accessory drive belts. Disconnect the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the A mark on the camshaft pulley with the timing mark on the camshaft housing. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

3

Detach the spring for the timing belt tensioner with a pair of brake pliers. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and remove the tensioner. Disconnect the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Place a T-wrench onto one of the housing bolts for the camshaft pulley. Place another T-wrench on the mounting bolt for the pulley and disconnect the mounting bolt. Remove the camshaft pulley from the camshaft.

5

Install the new timing belt and align the timing marks on the camshaft pulley if necessary. Ensure that the timing belt engages the teeth on the sprockets of the camshaft, crankshaft and belt tensioner.

6

Install the mounting bolt for the belt tensioner and tighten it by hand. Install the tensioner spring, and loosen the lock bolt for the belt tensioner with a socket wrench.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns and align the timing marks. Tighten the locking bolt on the timing belt to between 28 and 38 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the timing belt tensioner to adjust the tension on the timing belt. The timing belt should deflect by about 12mm when you apply a force of 22 lbs. to the longest span of the timing belt.

8

Replace the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and attach the accessory drive belts. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Replacing the mass air flow sensor on your 2000 Buick 3.8-liter engine is relatively straightforward. The MAF sensor sits on top of the throttle body just above the air intake. The MAF sensor is a flat, plastic piece held in place with several screws and has an electrical connector attached to its left side. Replacement OE MAF sensors are available through the dealer and aftermarket replacements are available from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Buick and locate the throttle body on the front of the engine. The air intake hose attaches to the front of the throttle body, making it easy to identify.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector from the end of the sensor by lifting the locking tab on the connector, then pulling it straight off the sensor. Locate the two screws on the top of the sensor--they are at opposite corners--and remove them with a Torx screwdriver.

3

Lift the MAF sensor straight up and away from the throttle body. Discard it and position a new MAF sensor on the throttle body, aligning the screw holes in the sensor with the threaded holes on the throttle body.

4

Install the two Torx-head retaining screws through the MAF sensor and into the throttle body. Tighten them with a Torx screwdriver, then push the electrical connector onto the end of the new sensor, making sure the locking tab snaps in place.

Chevrolet is the manufacturer of the Camaro, a two-door sports car. Introduced in 1967, the Camaro was one of Chevys major sellers until the company shut down production of the Camaro in 2002, which was declining in popularity. In 2010, the Camaro was re-introduced. If you are the owner of a Chevy Camaro and you need to have a new car key cut for your Camaro youll need to obtain certain information.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your Camaro. This number is located on your purchase paperwork, your registration and your insurance card. The VIN will allow Chevrolet to acquire your key code, which tells the key maker exactly how to cut your new key to fit in your vehicle.

2

Visit your local Chevy dealerships service and/or parts department. Chevrolets official website allows you to input your zip code to locate the Chevy dealership nearest you.

3

Give the service/parts department at Chevy your VIN, your Camaros registration and your photo identification. This information is needed to prove ownership of the vehicle, as Chevy will not cut keys, even with the VIN, without proof of ownership as a theft deterrent. Wait while your key is cut, which only takes a few minutes, and pay for your new keys.