Repair 7

Shift the motorcycle into top gear. Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground.

Cut the stock pushrods in half with a bolt cutter and pull them off the engine.

Remove both spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Shine a flashlight into the front spark plug well and look into it.

Slowly turn the rear wheel by hand until the front piston is at the top of its stroke.

Replace the O-rings, the lower pushrod covers and the spring cover keeper with new components supplied in the kit by hand using a flathead screwdriver when needed.

Loosen the locknut on all of the pushrods with an open end wrench and adjust them to their shortest length.

Install the pushrods with pushrod covers by hand, ensuring that the adjuster end of the pushrod is down and the ball end of the adjuster is in the tappet socket. Adjust the pushrods for your motorcycle according to the instructions in the kit.

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the sparkplugs with a sparkplug socket and socket wrench.

Diagnose all engine problems by first reading your spark plugs. Access the spark plugs on the left side of your motorcycle. Remove both front and back spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench and examine them. If the electrodes are intact and light gray to pale tan, your fuel-air mixture is fine. Reinstall your old plugs. If the electrodes are visibly corroded, your fuel-air mixture is too lean. Replace the old plugs with new ones. If your plugs are visibly sooty, your engine is running too cold or too rich, because you are making too many short trips or because your fuel-air mixture has too much gasoline and not enough air. Replace the plugs with new ones.

Inspect your spark plug wires and their connections to the coil and your spark plugs. Plug wires are not moving parts, so they do not usually wear out. If you see visible signs of wear, though, replace them.

Adjust the idling speed on a carbureted Ultra by using a small, flat-head screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw on top of the carburetor by the throttle cam. If you have trouble finding the throttle cam, stare at your carburetor while you twist your throttle. It is the part that moves. Adjust the fuel-air mixture on a carbureted Ultra by turning the fuel-air mixture screw on the bottom of your carburetor. The correct adjustment should be between two-and-an-eighth or two-and-a-quarter turns out.

Adjust both the idling speed and fuel-air mixture on a fuel-injected Ultra by using a Screaming Eagle Race Tuner, which is usually called a SERT, or equivalent, and a laptop computer. The SERT comes with software you install on your computer and cables that connect your laptop to a pigtail connection next to the electronic control module behind the side cover. Remove the seat screw behind the seat with an Allen wrench, then remove the seat to gain access to this pigtail connection.

Protect your rear fender finish with shop rags before you begin installing the Trunkbox mount.

Immobilize the right rear fender rail hex nut inside your rear fender with a box wrench. Loosen and remove the rear fender rail bolt with a socket wrench and socket.

Repeat for the right front rear fender rail nuts and bolt. Remove the left fender rail nuts and bolts the same way you removed the hardware on the right side of the bike. Clean and save all hardware.

Apply thread locker to each fender rail bolt. Arrange each half of the Trunkbox mount so the two holes in the sides of each half of the adapter bracket align with the fender rail bolt holes.

Reinstall all fender rail nuts, washers and bolts through the holes in the Trunkbox adapter bracket halves. Tighten all fasteners wrench tight. Remove rags.

Arrange the trunk so the six holes in the trunk align with the six holes on the tops of the two adapter bracket halves. Apply thread locker to the threads of the button head mounting screws included with the trunk and mounting kit.

Push each of the button head mounting screws through the holes in the adapter brackets and the trunk so the button side is down. Fasten each screw to the trunk with the nuts and washers included with the kit using small box wrenches.

Start the motorcycle in neutral. Close the petcock and run the Harley until the carburetor runs out of gas.

Remove the entire air cleaner assembly. Remove the cover with an Allen wrench. Use Torx drivers or sockets to remove the air cleaner.

Remove the breather tubes by hand. Remove the backing plate by unbolting the two retaining bolts with a socket wrench.

Unclip the choke assembly from its bracket under and on the left side of the gas tank.

Mark the throttle cables with masking tape and disconnect them. Loosen the hose clamp that connects the fuel line to the carburetor with a flat-head screwdriver and disconnect the fuel line.

Gently pull the carburetor from the seal ring that attaches the carburetor to the intake manifold. Set the carburetor upside down on a bed of clean rags on a flat, stable surface.

Drill a 1/16-inch hole in the factory sealing plug that covers the fuel-air, low speed adjusting screw. Pry the plug out of the low speed adjusting screw well with a machinists awl (scratch awl). Note the location of the idle speed adjuster screw.

Reconnect the carburetor to the intake manifold by re-seating it in the rubber seal ring. Reinstall the air cleaner backing plate and air cleaner.

Reattach the fuel line and the two throttle cables. Snap the throttle to ensure the throttle cables are properly reconnected.

Open the petcock and start the Harley. Allow the motorcycle to run until the rocker head covers are warm to the touch before tuning the carburetor.

Insert a small, flat-head screwdriver into the low speed adjusting screw well. Turn the screw 1/8-turn counterclockwise.

Adjust the idle speed adjuster screw with the same tool until the engine begins to stumble. Turn the low speed adjusting screw another 1/8-turn clockwise.

Reattach the air cleaner. Test-drive the motorcycle.

Install the oil pump. Connect feeder and return lines. Fill the oil tank to correct level.

Remove check valve cover screw with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the check valve O-ring and spring by hand.

Remove the check valve ball with a mechanics magnet from inside the oil pump body. On a typical Harley oil pump the check valve cover screw is on top of the oil pump body.

Look inside the open check valve. The exposed cavity inside the oil pump should fill with oil within seconds.

Pour clean engine oil into the cavity if it remains empty and wait for five minutes.

Replace the check valve ball, spring, O-ring and screw. Put the motorcycle in "Neutral" and start the engine.

Confirm oil circulation with an oil pressure gauge and by removing the filler cap from the oil tank and watching oil return to the tank.

Raise the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the bike is upright and level, but not elevated.

Drain all primary fluid from the primary chain case drain plug on the bottom of the chain case. On recent models, the plug is a hex nut and should be loosened with a socket wrench.

Remove the top and rear inspection cover screws on the racetrack-shaped inspection cover in the middle of the primary cover. Remove these screws with an Allen socket. Remove all eleven primary cover screws around the perimeter of the primary chain case cover with an Allen socket.

Remove the primary chain case cover, the cover gasket and both tower gaskets. Discard all three gaskets.

Disassemble the clutch pack until you can remove the diaphragm spring. Replace the standard diaphragm spring with the diaphragm spring in the reduced effort clutch kit.

Replace the primary cover gasket with a new gasket. Replace both tower gaskets with new ones.

Reinstall the primary chain case cover. Tighten all eleven primary cover screws with an Allen socket and torque wrench. Tighten the screws to between 108 and 120 inch-pounds.

Replace and tighten the top and rear inspection cover screws with an Allen socket and torque wrench. Tighten the inspection cover screws to between 84 and 108 inch-pounds.

Drain the transmission through the transmission drain plug using a socket wrench and hex socket.

Remove the six clutch release cover screws with an Allen socket and socket wrench. The clutch release cover covers the transmission. Squeeze the clutch lever on the handlebars two or three times to break the clutch release cover free.

Remove the clutch release cover and gasket. Discard the gasket.

Pull up the clutch cable adjuster boot near the middle of the clutch cable to expose the clutch cable adjustment nut. Loosen the lock nut with an open-end wrench.

Completely loosen the clutch cable adjustment nut with an open-end wrench. Unscrew the cable fitting from the clutch release cover.

Note the position of the retaining ring opening in the upper left quadrant of the clutch release cover. Remove the retaining ring around the inner ramp with snap ring pliers.

Wash all ball and ramp mechanism components in cleaning solvent.

Replace the original inner and outer ramps with the replacement inner and outer ramps included in the kit. Screw, but do not tighten, the clutch cable fitting into the clutch release cover.

Place the new outer ramp in the side cover and place the three original ball bearings in the outer ramp slots. Re-seat the retaining ring with snap ring pliers.

Connect the end of the clutch cable to the ramp coupling. Install the coupling on the replacement inner ramp. Position the inner ramp and coupling in the clutch release cover.

Install a new clutch release cover gasket and replace the clutch release cover. Tighten all six screws to between 84 and 108 inch-pounds with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

Tighten the clutch cable fitting with an open-end wrench to approximately 40 inch-pounds of torque.

Replace and tighten the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench and hex socket. Replace and tighten the primary chain case drain plug using a socket wrench and hex socket.

Refill the transmission with the amount of transmission fluid specified for your motorcycle in your owners manual. Readjust the clutch cable adjusting nut with an open-end wrench until there is no more than 1/8-inch of free play in the clutch handle.

Lock the adjusting nut in place by tightening the lock nut with a second open-end wrench. Recover the clutch cable adjusting nut assembly with the rubber boot.

Remove the clutch cover in the primary chain case cover by loosening the five Allen bolts with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the clutch cover gasket and discard.

Add primary chain case fluid until the fluid just touches the bottom of the clutch plates. Install a new clutch cover gasket, replace the clutch cover and tighten with an Allen socket and socket wrench.

Carefully lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Allow the motorcycle to lean left on the jiffy stand.

Disconnect your Softails battery by removing the cable from the battery terminal. Locate the fuel valve and switch it to the "Off" position.

Locate the carburetor and the fuel line that runs from it to the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank, but leave it attached to the carburetor to prevent any contamination.

Remove all the bolts that secure the seat to your Softail. Make sure to remove the main seat bolt that is located under the front of the seat. After you have removed all of the seat-mounting bolts, pull the seat off the motorcycle to give you access to the gas tank.

Remove the bolts that secure the gas tank to the body of the bike. These bolts run all along the perimeter of the tank. Carefully lift the tank out to avoid spilling any fuel.

Install the new tank in place of the old one and secure it with bolts along its perimeter. Reattach the seat to the Softail and secure it with the mounting bolts.

Connect the fuel line to the new tank. Turn the fuel valve back to the "On" position and reconnect the battery cable.

Loosen and dismount, but do not disconnect, the voltage regulator and the bottom of the frame down tubes, using a socket wrench. Allow the voltage regulator to hang down supported by the wiring harness.

Remove the oil filter with an oil filter wrench. Drain the oil into a pan.

Separate the halves of the oil filter adapter included in your oil cooler kit. Set the rear piece of the adapter in place on the oil filter mount and thread the one-inch lock nut onto the oil filter mounting stud.

Tighten the lock nut with a one-inch socket and socket wrench. Apply thread locker to the adapter screws included in the kit.

Secure the front half of the fitting adapter to the back half with the adapter screws. Turn the screws with an Allen wrench. Tighten the screws on both the front and back of the oil filter adapter.

Attach but do not tighten the two angled brackets included with the cooler kit to the voltage regulator mounting studs. Install the voltage regulator on the vertical holes of the angled brackets. Tighten the voltage regulator screws with a box wrench.

Attach the oil cooler ground wire to the right mounting stud. Tighten the nuts and hardware from your cooler kit to the mounting studs with a socket wrench.

Position the pre-assembled oil cooler above and resting on the voltage regulator. Insert the mounting screws and spacers included in your kit through the cooler unit and cross-member. Securely tighten the cooler unit mounting hardware with an Allen wrench.

Connect the oil lines that came with your kit to oil filter adapter. Tighten the hose clamps with a screwdriver. Install a new oil filter on the oil filter adapter.

Cut the oil cooler lines to length with scissors. Attach the open ends of the lines to the cooler fittings and secure with hose clamps. Tighten the hose clamps with a screwdriver.

Route the red power wire from the cooler up the frame to the headlight. Cut the wire to length with wire cutters. Strip the oil cooler power wire and splice it to the headlight power wire.

Cover the splice with heat shrink tubing. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

Slide the oil cooler cover in place. Tighten the top two and bottom two cover-mounting screws with a screwdriver.

Park your Harley in a well-ventilated area. Turn the petcock to off. Allow the engine to cool down completely.

Loosen the fender tab bolt on the back of the seat with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and washer. Pull the back of the seat up and back to remove it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from its terminal with a box wrench.

Remove the console bracket bolt or bolts. Use a box wrench on consoles attached to the bracket with a single acorn bolt. Use an Allen wrench on consoles attached to the bracket with two or three Allen bolts.

Loosen the worm clamp that connects the fuel line to the petcock with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the fuel line from the petcock.

Drain your fuel tank through your petcock into a large gasoline storage can. If you have a split gas tank, you must also disconnect the crossover hose and the fuel venting hoses on the bottom of the tanks.

Remove the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts, using a box wrench on the nuts and a socket wrench on the bolt heads.

Unplug the fuel gauge connector under the gas tank on later Evolution models.

Lift the tank straight up and off the motorcycle and set it aside.

Remove the Allen bolts that fasten the rocker cover to the engine. Remove the cover. Work on one rocker cover at a time, beginning with the front cover.

Remove the metal gasket, which is called an inner rocker cover or a D-ring. Remove the old gasket. Some gaskets will need to be scraped off.

Examine the used gasket and rocker housing. Gaskets for housings with only a partial shelf gasket use adhesive. Housings with a shelf to fully support the gasket do not need adhesive.

Position the gasket on the rocker arm assembly using adhesive if needed. Replace the thin metal inner rocker cover and the rocker cover.

Replace and tighten the rocker cover bolts according to the specifications in the shop manual for your Evolution. Generally, these bolts are tightened to about 10 foot-pounds of torque.

Replace the gas tank and reattach the pigtail connection for the fuel gauge. Reconnect the fuel line to the petcock using a worm clamp and flat-head screwdriver.

Reattach the console to the console bracket. Refill the gas tank. Reconnect the battery cable and replace the seat.