Being the last Pontiac production car, Vibe offers a sporty design and the car is functional, spacious and efficient. If you are lucky enough to get one, it may have needed an alignment. The following specs are cited by the manufacturer for alignment.
Camber
Camber is the measurement in degrees from the true vertical. The Vibe camber angle should be the same on both left and right sides. The angle must be -0.57 with the measuring accuracy of 0.75 degrees on the front wheels and -1.45 with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 on the rear wheels.
Caster
Caster measurement is essentially the reading of camber while turning. Caster angles must be 2.78 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.75 degrees.
Total Toe
Total toe angles on the front wheels must be zero degrees with measuring range of 0.20 degrees and 0.26 degrees with the measuring range of 0.26 degrees on the rear wheels.
The stylish Porsche cars come equipped with a remote entry system for controlling the door locks and alarm system. The system is controlled by a wireless transmitter in the Porsche key fob. This device has three buttons: lock, unlock and a panic alarm button. Before you can use the key fob with your car you must program it to work. Most keyless transmitters come already programmed from the Porsche dealership, but you can also reprogram it yourself using the ignition key and the security code.
Instructions
1
Enter the Porsche by the drivers seat and be sure everything is closed. This includes all doors, boot lids and bonnet.
2
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it clockwise until you start the Porsche engine.
3
Turn the 911 engine off and remove the key from ignition. Wait 90 seconds before continuing to the next step.
4
Turn the ignition to the "On" position and wait 15 seconds. This position is as far as you can turn the key without starting the engine. The immobilization light located in the 911 dashboard clock will go out.
5
Turn the ignition off again then turn it back on. After 15 seconds, the immobilization light will begin to blink.
6
Enter the four digit security code using the ignition. For instance, if the first digit in the code is three you would turn the ignition from on to off, then back on. This would equal 1 digit, so you would repeat this step two more times if the first digit is "3." Afterwards, wait for the immobilization light to flash then repeat this step for the next digit. After the fourth and last digit is entered, the light will flash again to signal you are in programming mode.
7
Press a button on the key fob and hold it until the LED light blinks. This will indicate it has been programmed.
A 2002 GMC truck needs an OBD scan tool to clear the "Service Engine Soon" light. There is a computer within the vehicle called On-Board Diagnostics, or OBD, that monitors the various systems within the vehicle. It also keeps track of when you need routine maintenance. To keep the computer functioning properly so it keeps track of when the maintenance is due, you must use the OBD scan tool to read the code to find out exactly what type of servicing is needed. Then you simply use the tool to reset the light. Make sure you have the servicing performed before you clear the light.
Instructions
1
Locate the diagnostic connector port on the drivers side of the vehicle. It is located on the underside of the dashboard, between the center console and the steering column. Plug the OBD scan tool connector end into the diagnostic connector port.
2
Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. This will power the scan tool on. Make sure you dont turn the key too far and start the engine.
3
Wait for the code to appear on the screen of the scan tool then press "Erase." If you are prompted by the question "Are you sure?," press "Yes." This clears the codes and you should see the "Service Engine Soon" light disappear from the instrument cluster. Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle.
4
Turn the engine on and check to see that the "Service Engine Soon" light is still off.
When youre driving down the road on a hot day, nowhere near a gas station, and your autos air-conditioning starts malfunctioning, all you can think of is why you didnt get those repair tools and put them in the trunk. If youre one of the lucky ones and you have some tools in your car, you may be wondering whether theyre the right ones. There are some basic repair tools you should know about and have available for emergency maintenance. However, it is best to leave the AC repairs to a professional because refrigerant is a hazardous substance.
Safety and Service Manual Tools
The most important tools are for your safety. You should wear safety glasses, gloves, a face shield and apron the entire time you are repairing your autos air-conditioning system. Your cars AC unit can be extremely hot and the possibility of contact with refrigerant during recharging requires caution. You also need your cars service manual to pinpoint the exact pressures and directions for the AC repair, which can vary depending on the car model.
Diagnostic and Detection Tools
You need leak-detection diagnostic tools to determine the cause of your autos AC problem. There are dyes you can insert into the system and then check the pipes for remnants of the dye to confirm a leak. You can also purchase electronic leak detectors that alert you to refrigerant leaking into the atmosphere, or LED detection flashlight tools. If your auto has an AC leak, you should take it to a repair shop for the root cause to be remedied; any superficial corrections will be short lived.
Recharging Tools
To recharge your cars AC system you will need pressure gauges, a charge hose and refrigerant. The more inexpensive way to recharge the system is with only a low-pressure gauge; however, Autos.com recommends using both a high and low pressure gauge for best results. The charge hose connects to both the gauge and refrigerant and pierces the refrigerant can so it can enter the AC system. Most cars use a R-134a refrigerant that can be bought at your local gas station or auto supply store. There are also gauge and refrigerant sets sold that contain most of the repair tools you would need for your autos AC.
When the car horn dies on your Toyota, the only way to fix it is to replace it with another horn. Its important to make this repair as soon as possible. While you will still be able to drive the vehicle, it will not pass a state inspection. The horn is important in ensuring your safety as you drive. It alerts pedestrians and other drivers to your presence. Replacement horns can be purchased at auto parts dealers or junkyards.
Instructions
1
Open and stabilize the hood of the car, making sure to prop it up so you can operate under the hood.
2
Find the horn attached to the inside of the cars grille, in front of your engine.
3
Unscrew the screws that hold the horn in place at the front of the grille. Unplug the electrical harness.
4
Remove the horn from your Toyota.
5
Insert the new horn at the same spot from which the previous one was removed. Screw it in place with the screws you removed earlier, and plug the power wires into the new horns socket.
An internal combustion engine needs four essential things to run. They are: air, fuel, compression and spark. Those four things must work together in perfect harmony or timing. When timing a small block Chevy, we really just change the specific time at which the spark plug will create a spark and cause an explosion in reference to the position of the piston when it is near top dead center in the cylinder.
Instructions
1
Grind the electrode off the bottom of an old spark plug, dont damage the threads. Place the spark plug in a vise and hammer a punch through the spark plug to remove the porcelain. Cut the head off a 3/8 inch by 2-inch bolt with a hack saw. Grind the bolts shaft round and smooth where the head was removed. Insert the bolt into the spark plug so the rounded shaft protrudes out of the threaded end of the now hollow spark plug about 1 1/2 inches. Weld the bolt to the spark plug on the opposite side of the threads. Allow this plug stop to cool.
2
Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery of the vehicle. Remove all the spark plugs from the small block Chevy engine. Label the spark plug wires to keep them in order for easy replacement.
3
Clean the harmonic balancer so the zero degree line can be seen. Use a wire brush if needed. Insert the special modified spark plug into the number one cylinder of the engine. The number one cylinder is the cylinder closest to the radiator on the drivers side of the vehicle.
4
Rotate the engine very slowly and gently by hand until the piston comes up softly against the plug stop. Make a prick punch mark that aligns perfectly with the zero mark on the timing tab. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction very slowly and gently by hand until the piston comes up softly against the plug stop. Again make a prick punch mark that aligns perfectly with the zero mark on the timing tab. Immediately remove the plug stop.
5
Measure the exact distance between the two prick punch marks and divide that measurement by two. The true top dead center is exactly half the distance between the two punch marks and there should be a line labeled with zero degrees on the balancer, if the balancer is not damaged. If the original zero line does not fall exactly halfway between the punch marks, scribe a new line using a hacksaw blade. Use this new and precise line to time the engine.
6
Reinstall all the spark plugs and reattach all the spark plug wires. Reattach the negative battery terminal to the battery. Slightly loosen the distributor hold-down bolt located at the base of the distributor shaft. Remove the vacuum line from the distributors vacuum advance and plug the line with a small bolt.
7
Set the knob on the timing light to the desired timing degrees according to the specifications for the vehicle. Also, adjust the engines idle speed to the desired specifications for the vehicle, using the digital readout on the timing light. Clamp the timing lights pickup clamp to the number one spark plug wire. Clamp the red power clamp to the positive terminal of the battery and the black ground clamp to the negative terminal.
8
Start the vehicle. Aim the timing light at the harmonic balancer. With the engine running, align the top dead center mark on the balancer with the corresponding mark on the timing tab. Rotate the distributor in one direction or the other to align the marks as needed. Tighten the distributor hold-down bolt when the marks align perfectly. Recheck the timing to be sure it did not move while tightening the distributor. If it moved, repeat the timing procedure until the marks align and the distributor is tight.
9
Reset the idle speed and remove the timing light. Reconnect the vacuum line to the distributor the timing should be set.
A vehicles engine has many intricate components that work as a team to bring power to the drivetrain, resulting in movement. The camshaft is an important piece of the engines motion puzzle.
Identification
A camshaft functions by managing the engines valves. It does so by allowing a set amount of fuel and air into the compartment for combustion to move a vehicle along.
Considerations
Damage can occur to a camshaft in a variety of ways. In particular, the camshaft works in conjunction with the timing belt. If the timing belt snaps, the valves controlled by the camshaft can become warped or bent because the camshaft will have halted all movement.
Other Considerations
Oil plays a large part in possible camshaft damage. If the oil becomes low or develops an incorrect viscosity, the camshaft can wear down from poor lubrication. If you do not resolve the situation, this wear can turn into a complete breakage, causing costly repairs.
An automotive fabricators pipe-bending tools must create accurate bends at precise angles without causing damage to the exhaust pipe. Gentle, accurate tools are particularly important to custom hot rod and motorcycle fabricators; these workers use top-of-line materials and often have to get it right the first time around.
Press Bender
The term press bender generally refers to bench or floor-mounted equipment that create bends by compressing pipe between a movable arm and fixed die. The press benders die is shaped like a wedge and its radius determines the acuity of the pipes bend. Press benders allow the fabricator to adjust the angle of the exhaust pipe bend, usually by means of a dial.
To use a press bender, the exhaust pipe fabricator chooses a die and attaches the die to the benders base plate. The fabricator inserts a pipe into the benders saddle, a pre-formed seat, and secures the material with the benders clamp. The tools bending arm presses against the pipe and the pipe presses against the die, assuming the dies form. A manual hand crank, air compressor or hydraulic pump creates the action of the press benders pressing arm.
Roll Bender
The roll bender transforms straight tubing into long, sweeping arcs or circles, particularly for custom exhaust fabrication. The roll bender is a large, stand-alone piece of equipment and usually looks like a large, rectangular box. The primary components of the roll bender, the rollers, protrude from either the top or side of the box. Rollers look like pulleys; they are round with a tubular channel cut along their circumference. Arranged in a triangular pattern, the bottom rollers are stable and the top roller is mobile.
To use a roll bender, the fabricator places exhaust tube into the bottom rollers channels and activates the motion of the machines top roller. The top roller presses against the pipe, bending it into the space between the rollers. As the pipe bends, the rollers turn and push the pipe. As such, the roll bender doesnt just bend pipe at a single point, like the manual and hydraulic bender, but across its entire length to create large bends.
Rotary Bender
Typically powered by hydraulic pump, the rotary bender bends pipe by pressing and rotating the pipe against a fixed, half-circle die. In addition to the fixed, half-circle die, the rotary bender has mobile, half-cylinder die that serves as a clamp and pressing arm.
To use a rotary bender, the exhaust fabricator mounts a pipe between the fixed die and adjustable die, tightens the adjustable die against the pipe and activates the machine. Once activated, the rotary benders pressing arms force the adjustable die to press against the pipe and rotate around the fixed die. Because of its size and power, the rotary bender is capable of quickly creating accurate bends in thick, large-diameter pipe.
Most kitchens and bathrooms have exhaust fans to help clear the air of unwanted odors. Fans are used in kitchens as a way of dispersing smoke and food odors, while bathroom fans vent moist air out to prevent mold and mildew from growing. Consider several factors to select the fan that is right for you.
Instructions
1
Decide if you want your exhaust fan to run on a timer or on a switch. Switch-based fans turn on and off like a light, using a switch on the wall (sometimes the light swatch and the fan switch are one and the same), while timer-based fans are set to run a certain length of time a certain number of periods each day. The former is more convenient and can be used at specific moments (such as when cooking or using the toilet), while the latter provides a more thorough and regular recirculation of the air.
2
Measure the volume of your kitchen or bathroom. You can to this with a tape measure: Multiply the rooms width times its length times its height (in feet).
3
Determine the amount of cubic feet per minute (CFM), which is the airflow required to exchange the air in the room eight times per hour, which is the recommended efficiency of any exhaust fan. You can determine the CFM by dividing the rooms volume by 7.5.
4
Check the CFM on any exhaust fans you select: It should be listed on the box. You want a fan whose CFM is equal to or larger than the CFM of the room you intend to use it in.
5
Compare the sound level of various exhaust fans. You usually want to select the quietest fan possible. Fan noise is measured in sones, usually ranked from 0.5 to 4.0 and listed on the box. The lower the sone, the quieter the fan, so look for fans ranked at 1.0 sone or below, if possible.
6
Select a fan which can be installed with screws rather than nails. Nails have a tendency to vibrate and can come loose after time. Screws will hold the fan more securely for a longer length of time.
7
Choose a fan that matches the aesthetics and dcor of the room where you intend to install it. This is purely a matter of taste and the amount of money you wish to spend. Exhaust fans come in all manner of styles and features, and you can always find one to match the specifics of your room.
The Rochester 2G carburetor has two bores, two venturis and two separate but identical metering systems. The two-bore carburetor is normally used on V-8 engines where each bore supplies the air/fuel mixture to four cylinders through a divide intake manifold. The model 2G was equipped with a manual choke and was primarily used on trucks and marine engines. The 2G carburetor was a popular choice for the "Tri-Power" triple carburetor muscle cars of the 1960s. Routine adjustment of the 2G carburetor can be done without removing the carburetor and will keep it operating at peak efficiency.
Instructions
1
Shift the transmission into "park" if it is an automatic transmission or "neutral" if it is manual. Chock one tire and set the parking brake so the vehicle will not roll. Remove the air cleaner assembly and set it aside.
2
Loosen the idle stop screw until the throttle plates are completely closed in the carburetor body. Set a machinists double-ended square to 1 1/8 inches and place it at the top of the air horn, with the measuring rod resting on the pump rod cam. Bend the pump rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers until the cam rests on the end of the square.
3
Set the double-ended square to 1 inch and place it on the air horn with the measuring rod resting on the idle vent cam. Open the throttle valve until the vent valve just closes. Bend the tang on the pump lever until the cam just touches the measuring rod on the double square.
4
Open the throttle plates wide open and close the choke. Insert a .055-inch wire feeler gauge between the choke plate and the wall of the air horn on the carburetor body. Bend the tang on the throttle lever to adjust the clearance.
5
Turn both idle-mixture screws clockwise and count the number of turns it takes until they gently seat. Return the screws to their original positions by turning them counter-clockwise the same number of turns that it took to seat them. If both idle-mixture screws were not adjusted to the same amount initially, set them both to two turns out at this time.
6
Connect the tachometer to the engine by following the manufacturers directions. Connect the vacuum gauge to a "manifold" or constant vacuum source. Start the engine and take it to normal operating temperature. Set the idle speed to 850 rpm with the idle-speed screw. Note the reading on the vacuum gauge and turn one idle-mixture screw clockwise a half-turn and note the change on the vacuum gauge. If the vacuum reading increases, turn the other idle-mixture screw clockwise a half-turn. Note the vacuum gauge reading. If the gauge continues to climb, adjust each idle-mixture screw in another quarter-turn. If the engine stumbles or the vacuum drops when turning the idle-mixture screws clockwise, turn both screws out a half-turn and note the gauge reading.
7
Adjust the idle speed screw to maintain a constant engine speed of 850 rpm as the idle-mixture screws are being adjusted. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the idle speed remains constant and the maximum vacuum reading is achieved by adjusting the idle-mixture screws. Ensure that each idle-mixture screw is turned in or out exactly the same amount.
8
Remove the tachometer and vacuum gauges. Replace the air cleaner and remove the wheel chock.
Officially, only a certified smog inspection station can tell you if your vehicle is smog compliant in California. When you bring an out-of-state vehicle into California, a certified technician can let you know what repairs or adjustments must be done for your vehicle to meet the requirements. If you plan to register your car in California, it must meet the minimum smog-control requirements or fall under one of the categories for exemption. Owners of vehicles that are 6 or less model years old pay a smog abatement fee in lieu of getting their vehicles tested.
Instructions
1
Visit the California Bureau of Automotive Repair website at bar.ca.gov. Click on "Find a Station" in the left margin. Click on "Current Active Smog Stations." Enter your ZIP code to find stations near you. Check that the station you select is in the same county in which you plan to register your vehicle; different counties may have different regulations.
2
Contact the smog inspection station directly to confirm it is state certified and to make an appointment. These organizations are private and not regulated by the government, so contact several stations to find the best price.
3
Bring your vehicle to the station and say it needs a smog inspection to be sure it complies with California requirements. The test should take no longer than an hour. The technician will provide you with a certificate, or inform you if the car needs repairs or adjustments to meet the minimum certification requirements. If your car needs repairs, the same station can generally do them. Register your car within 90 days; the certificate is invalid after that time.
The Chrysler Sebring is a series of mid-size cars in production since 1995. The 2001 model was the first of the second generation Sebrings, which was produced until 2005. The 2001 Chrysler Sebring has a mechanical water pump, like other modern vehicles. The engine drives the water pump with a belt, which circulates a mixture of water and antifreeze around the engine. The water pump in a 2001 Chrysler Sebring is attached to the front of the engine block.
Instructions
1
Allow the vehicle to sit overnight to ensure the coolant is not hot. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal, so you dont accidentally start the engine.
2
Place a sealable container under the radiator and remove the drain plug for the radiator. Allow the entire contents of the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the drain plug and seal the container of coolant.
3
Use the socket wrench to remove the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.
4
Use the socket wrench to disconnect the brace for the alternator. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and disconnect the water pump. Discard the O-ring for the water pump.
5
Clean the O-ring mating surfaces on the water pump and the engine block with a shop towel to remove any remaining material from the O-ring. Place the new O-ring into position on the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 117 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the brace for the alternator and tighten its mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. Install the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.
6
Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Refill the cooling system and start the engine. Check for leaks in the cooling system and repair as necessary.
The 1999 Ford F-250 is a diesel truck that many people use to haul heavy items with good fuel economy. If your F-250 is having a hard time starting, there are a few things that you can do before you get it towed to a repair shop. You dont have to be a car mechanic to get your diesel working again. You can do it yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of truck repair.
Instructions
1
Insert your key into the F-250s ignition and then try to start the truck. Check the electrical panel on the dashboard. Look at the battery meter and the gas gauge on the dashboard. If your truck does not have enough gas to start, fill the tank with diesel.
2
Use the applicable fuel for the truck. If you are using winter diesel in the summer, you will need to change the fuel. Summer diesel should not be used in the winter. Use a siphon to pump the gas out of the trucks gas tank.
3
Insert one end of the hose into the gas tank. Insert the other end into an empty container. Pump the siphon hose to siphon the gas out of the tank and into the container. Fill the gas tank with the applicable diesel.
4
Check the battery connections to the battery if your gauge indicated that there was a low charge. Open the hood and locate the battery next to the engine. Make sure that the battery connections are properly connected to the terminals. The red cable should be on the positive (+) terminal and the black cable should be on the negative terminal (-). Use a pair of channel locks to secure the connections.
5
Place the terminal leads of the voltmeter to your batterys connections. The diesel truck uses a 12-volt battery. You should get an 11 to 12 volt reading on the voltmeters display. If you dont get an 11 to 12 volt reading from the voltmeter, replace the battery.
6
Jack the front end of the truck up with a jack and then locate the small black box on the bottom of the engine. This is the starter. Have a friend turn the ignition and listen to the starter. If you hear buzzing or clicking coming from the starter, you need to have it replaced by a certified technician.
Car headers, which attach to the sides of a vehicle engine, are an important part of a vehicles exhaust system. Made up of solid steel tubing, headers are the first parts of a vehicles exhaust system to come into contact with exiting engine exhaust gases.
Link Engine to Exhaust System
Headers are long, tubular metal pipes that bolt to the sides of an engine. Headers line up with the engine exhaust ports and provide a link through which exiting engine exhaust gases flow out of an engine and towards the inner exhaust system.
Collect Engine Exhaust Gases
As burned engine exhaust gases exit an engine, headers collect these gases and funnel them down the header pipes and into the main exhaust system, which is where the muffler and catalytic converter reside.
Transport Engine Exhaust Gases
Headers serve as a critical link between a vehicles exhaust system and its engine. As engine exhaust gases flow through a set of headers, the headers direct these gases to the main vehicle exhaust pipe, where they flow through the exhaust muffler and catalytic converter.
Temper Exhaust Sound
Headers also serve to dampen and temper the sound of a vehicles exhaust system. By providing a solid, tubular enclosure for exiting engine exhaust gases, headers help mask some of the popping and crackling sounds of high-speed, high-temperature exhaust gases.
Reduce Exhaust Gas Speed
As exhaust gases exit a vehicles engine, they travel at very high rates of speed. Headers present the first physical barrier to these exiting exhaust gases, a situation that serves to slow down their rate of speed as well as increase the efficiency of both the vehicle muffler and catalytic converter.
A catalytic converter is an exhaust emissions device used to lower a vehicles exhaust emissions output. Similar in size and shape to an exhaust muffler, a catalytic converter is attached directly to a vehicles exhaust system. What follows is a brief description outlining the main purposes of catalytic converter use.
Burn Unbruned Exhaust Gases
The main function of a catalytic converter is to burn unburned exhaust gases that exit a vehicles engine. By burning these unburned exhaust gases, a catalytic converter lowers the emissions output of a vehicles exhaust.
Impede Normal Exhaust Flow
A catalytic converter creates exhaust system impedance, which causes the exhaust exiting a vehicles engine to slow down, a process that gives the catalytic converter more time to act upon the exhaust gases.
Reduce Hydrocarbon Exhaust Emissions
Hydrocarbon emissions, which are created when air and gas is burned inside of a vehicle engine, are significantly reduced by the burning action of a catalytic converter.
Mandate Unleaded Gasoline Use
All vehicles equipped with catalytic converters require the use of unleaded gasoline, which is a cleaner-burning type of gasoline that results in lower exhaust emissions. Leaded gasolines and/or racing gasolines are highly damaging to a catalytic converter and cannot be used in cars equipped with one.
Reduce Carbon Monoxide Emissions
Carbon monoxide exhaust emissions are significantly reduced by the burning actions of a catalytic converter. Carbon monoxide gases are natural by-products of engine combustion, and catalytic converters help to lower these emissions by re-burning exiting engine exhaust gases.
The control module of a vehicle is basically the computer that does the thinking for an engines control system. It affects the functioning of things ranging from a vehicles charging system to its transmission. This is why when the control module goes bad, the engine suffers functionality issues as well.
Voltage Overload
One of the main things that can cause a control module on a vehicle to go bad is voltage overload. This can occur when a short exists in the circuits of either a solenoid or actuator. Replacing the control module will do no good if these shorts are not dealt with as the replacement control module will experience voltage overload as well.
Water
Another thing that can cause a vehicles control module to go bad is water. Circuits get shorted out and the control modules electrical connections are harmed from the corrosion that builds if water manages to reach the inside of the control module. This is why repairs are usually not even attempted on control modules that come out of flooded vehicles.
Vibration and Stress
Vibration as well as thermal stress has also been known to cause control modules to go bad. This is because they can cause tiny cracks to form in the control modules circuit boards. However, unlike water damage, this type of damage to a control module is repairable.
The On-Board Diagnostics computer on your 1998 Volvo S70 receives trouble codes from sensors throughout the vehicle. It also keeps track of when your car needs regular maintenance such as oil changes and tune-ups. When the service light shows up on your instrument panel, its time for a servicing. Service the car before manually resetting and turning off the service engine light. Its a quick fix on a Volvo, requiring no special tools and only a few moments of your time.
Instructions
1
Sit in the drivers seat and put the ignition key in, turning the key to the first position. Make sure the engine doesnt start, though.
2
Find the trip odometer knob and push it in, holding it down while you turn the key in the ignition to the second position. This is the position right before the engine starts.
3
Watch the instrument panel and look for the service engine light to flash. After it flashes three or four times, turn the key in the ignition back to the first position. Make sure you are still holding the trip odometer button down.
4
Let the trip button go and turn on the engine. Notice whether or not the service engine light has turned off. If it hasnt turned off, repeat the procedure.
Chevrolet applied the S-10 prefix to two different vehicles starting in the 1980s: the Chevy S-10 Blazer SUV and the Chevy S-10 pickup truck. The S-10 prefix is most synonymous with the pickup truck, which sported the S-10 brand from 1982 until it was discontinued in 2004 and was often referred to simply as the S-10.
General Alignment Information of the Chevy S-10
The 2004 model year is the last year for which S-10 alignment specs are available, and the 2004 specs only apply to S-10s produced that year. When adjusting the alignment of a vehicle, it is absolutely necessary to ensure that the proper alignment specs are used not just for a particular model but also for the appropriate year. For instance, the alignment specs for a 1987 S-10 differ substantially from those for a 2004 S-10. In some instances, alignment specs vary from trim to trim of a particular vehicle in a given model year, and they can even vary based on optional suspension packages. The rear alignment is not adjustable on any trim of the 2004 S-10. All two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims of the 2004 Chevrolet S-10 shared the same alignment specs for the front end, but it is imperative to consult an owners manual, repair manual or certified mechanic to make certain the correct specs are used.
Caster
The caster angle on the front left wheel of the 2004 S-10 can range from +1.8 degrees to +3.8 degrees, with the ideal setting being +2.8 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.5 degrees. The caster angle on the right front wheel can range from +2.3 degrees to +4.3 degrees, with the ideal setting being +3.3 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.5 degrees. The difference in the two settings is intended to compensate for public roads being crowned at a slight downward slope toward the outside of the lane to facilitate drainage.
Camber
The camber angle on the front end of the 2004 S-10 can range from -1.0 degrees to +1.0 degrees, with zero being the ideal setting, with a cross tolerance of +0.5 degrees.
Toe-in
The toe-in on the front end of the 2004 S-10 can range from -0.1 degrees to +0.3 degrees. The ideal setting is +0.1 degrees.
Catalytic converters, important to your vehicles emissions, clean exhaust before it enters the atmosphere. A bad catalytic converter can turn on your "Check Engine" light and lead to ensuing engine problems and power loss in your Camry.
Late-Model Camrys
Camrys made after the year 2000 will likely have two catalytic converters whether they have a four- or six-cylinder engine. Typically, the front converter is much less expensive to replace. Earlier-model Camrys from the 1990s and before may have only one converter, depending on the model.
California Camrys
Califonria has particularly strict emission laws. Camrys sold and driven in California will definitely have two converters.
Further Considerations
If still unsure about how many catalytic converters your Camry has, a mechanic can look under the car and quickly tell you. If your "Check Engine" light has turned on, have a mechanic plug the car into a diagnostic machine to determine which, if either, converter has begun to fail and diagnose the underlying engine problem.
Chrysler Motors manufactured many engines independently and also collaborated with other motor companies to manufacture engines. One of the engines manufactured in collaboration was the 2.0 DOHC engine created during the 1980s. The 1988 Dodge Colt Vista Wagon featured the 2.0 G63B engine.
Camshaft Torque Specifications
The 2.0 DOHCs had two outer cap bolts connecting the camshaft to the cylinder head with 18 foot-pounds of torque and three inner cap bolts with 8.75 foot-pounds of torque. The bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the camshaft had 2.5 foot-pounds of torque, while the bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the cylinder head had 7.08 foot-pounds of torque.
Exhaust and Intake Torque Specifications
The bolts connecting the fuel rail to the intake manifold had 16.25 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the intake manifold to the cylinder head had 212 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the throttle body to the intake manifold had 16.67 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head had 16 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe had 20 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the heat shield to the exhaust manifold had 8.75 foot-pounds of torque.
Engine Specifications
The 2.0 DOHC V4 engine had a peak horsepower of 96 and a peak torque of 113 foot-pounds. The engine had a bore and stroke of 3.35 and 3.46 inches, respectively, and a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1. The engine had a displacement of 122 cubic inches, or 2.0 liters.
The axles in your car are complex parts that are necessary for the wheels to move effectively. If they stop working completely, it can be very dangerous for anyone in the car. Luckily, when an axle is not working properly, it makes a distinctive sound that you can periodically test for. Set aside time every few months to check the axles.
Instructions
Checking the Car for a Broken or Cracked Axle
1
Eliminate all sounds from the car. Turn off the radio and keep conversation to a minimum. You will be listening closely for noises and need full concentration.
2
Start the car. Turn the engine on and put the car into drive.
3
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Slowly drive forward with the steering wheel still turned and listen for a clicking noise.
4
Turn steering wheel all the way to the right and drive forward listening for a clicking noise. If you heard even the faintest clicking noise on either side, your axles are probably in need of repair.
5
Park the car and examine the axles for cracks or grease. If the axles, which are located inside the wheels, are cracked or covered in grease, it is very likely your axles need to be replaced.
Replacing the spark plug wires with a new set of high-quality wires on your Toyota Camry can improve the performance and allow the engine to run smoother. New plug wires can increase the fuel economy of the car as well. Regular inspection of the wires for cracks, nicks, tears or burns is the best way to know when the wires need to replaced. Spark plug wire sets are available from Toyota dealers and most auto parts stores.
Instructions
1
Open the hood of your Camry and locate the negative cable on the battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench. Lift the cable off the battery. Set it aside, making sure it cannot fall back against the terminals while you are working.
2
Locate the spark plug wires on the top of the engine. The wires run from the ignition coil or coil packs to the spark plugs. There are four on the 2.2-liter engine and six on the 3.0-liter engine.
3
Pick one wire. Remove the wire from the coil by pulling the wire off the terminal. Follow the wire to the spark plug. Grasp the wire by the boot on the spark plug end and pull it off the spark plug.
4
Lay the spark plug wire out straight and find the matching wire from the new spark plug wire kit. Place a small amount of dielectric grease in each end of the wire. Install the new wire on the coil and the spark plug. Push the wire onto the terminal and the plug until it snaps in place.
5
Move to the next wire and repeat the process. Continue replacing plug wires until all of them are new. Do not remove more than one wire at a time. Doing so could affect the firing order, in which case the engine will not run correctly.
6
Reattach the negative cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt with a wrench. Close the hood and discard the old wires.
A growling or humming noise when driving down the road is a sign of potential trouble. If you swerve the steering wheel and the noise changes, the culprit is probably a wheel bearing. Usually, this only occurs on one side. Determine which side has failed by lifting the front of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand. Often, you can hear the noise in the side that has failed. The failed hub and bearing may also feel loose when you grab the tire by the top and bottom, and pull in and out.
Dodge Caravans use a sealed hub and bearing. This means that the only replaceable parts are the wheel studs. The bearing cannot be lubricated, and in case of failure, the complete hub and bearing must be replaced.
Instructions
Removal/Disassembly
1
Raise the vehicle using a suitable floor jack. The correct lift points for the Dodge Caravan are located under the floor pan and body. They are marked by small downward pointing triangles. Place the jack under this point, and lift. When finished lifting, place a safety stand in a position where it will support the vehicle if the jack fails.
2
Use a wheel nut wrench to remove the five wheel nuts. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. You may want to enlist a helper to hold the brake pedal to make the removal process easier.
3
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft. A cotter pin is a thin piece of metal that looks like a sewing pin, with a rounded piece at the top. The bottom part is split and bent both ways to prevent it from coming out. Remove the nut lock and spring washer as well. While a helper holds the brake pedal, remove the axle shaft nut on the end of the axle shaft.
4
Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Gently remove the brake caliper from the rotor, and support its weight with a coat hanger or bungee cord. If the brake rotor has never been off the vehicle, look for a small clip on one of the wheel studs. Remove this clip with pliers, and discard it. You will not need to re-use this--it is for assembly-line purposes.
5 Removing a brake rotor on a similar vehicle.
Slide the brake rotor off the hub and bearing. If the rotor is stuck, apply penetrating lubricant to the area where the brake rotor meets the hub and bearing. Let it soak for 30 minutes, and try again. If it is still stuck, tap it gently with a hammer around the area where you sprayed penetrating lubricant. If the rotor still will not come off, you may tap the back of the rotor gently with a hammer to remove it.
6
Push in on the axle shaft end, to disengage it from the splines that are part of the hub and bearing assembly. On the back of the steering knuckle, there are four hub and bearing mounting bolts. Using a socket wrench, remove these four bolts. Be careful not to come in contact with the tone wheel on the axle. The tone wheel is a round piece on the axle shaft with teeth cast in it. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
Installation
7
Clean the mounting surface on the steering knuckle carefully. Install the hub and bearing onto the splines of the axle shaft. Move the hub and bearing into the steering knuckle, until it is squarely seated on the knuckle.
8 Dont guess when tightening. Use a torque wrench for accuracy.
Install the four hub and bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Tighten these bolts in a criss-cross pattern, to 45 foot-lbs. of torque.
9
Place the brake rotor on the wheel studs, pushing it back completely onto the hub and bearing assembly. Install the brake caliper and adapter assembly onto the brake rotor, pushing it down until the two bolt holes in the caliper align with the holes in the steering knuckle. Install the two bolts from the inside of the steering knuckle. Tighten these two bolts to 125 foot-lbs. of torque.
10
Install the hub nut on the end of the axle shaft. Use a helper to hold the brake pedal. Tighten the axle nut to 180 foot-lbs. of torque. Install the spring washer and nut lock onto the axle nut. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the end of the axle shaft, and split the cotter pin at the end, bending the ends apart, to secure the axle nut.
11
Install tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 100 foot-lbs. of torque, using the helper to hold the brakes as necessary. Remove the safety stand, and lower the vehicle.
If you have enjoyed the benefits of a properly working air conditioner in your vehicle, then you will quickly notice if it starts to blow hot air through the vents. Having information on why this occurs could be beneficial to any car owner looking to beat the heat.
Causes
There are several reasons your vehicle may be blowing hot air through the vents, such as a need to recharge refrigerant. There could also be a problem with the air conditioners compressor. Vents will blow hot air if the compressor does not activate when the A/C is turned on.
Compressor
To find out if the air conditioners compressor is causing hot air to come from your vents, you can test it by connecting its clutch wire to a battery. If the compressor fails to turn, it is likely that you will need to have it replaced.
Refrigerant
If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, it can be recharged to combat this issue. However, checking for leaks should always be done before taking this action. Also, your air conditioning systems vacuum should have all air removed from it prior to recharging refrigerant.
The popularity of aluminum rims, also known as aluminum alloy, has brought about the advent of aluminum wheel repair. Repairing a rim is much more cost effective for fixing a crack, as opposed to replacing the wheel completely.
Function
A typical wheel repair requires putting the cracked wheel through pressure, heat and vibration testing to highlight the cracks for technicians to weld and repair. This type of testing also allows the tester to find and repair tiny unseen cracks---even those covered by coatings such as chrome.
Considerations
Brake dust and ordinary dirt on the wheel can hide many wheel aberrations, including dangerous cracks. Thorough pressure washing the rim will help verify that the tester finds and welds all cracks properly.
Warning
Not all cracks can be repaired. In cases of severe cracking, do not compromise safety by attempting to repair it. In these cases, the wheel will likely require a complete replacement.
The exhaust system in your 1997 Honda CR-V consists of four major sections: the front pipe, the catalytic converter, the resonator pipe and the muffler. The only repair that can be done on the exhaust of the CR-V is replacement of the sections or gaskets. In most cases, replacing the exhaust only involves the resonator and the muffler, but sometimes a new catalytic converter may also be required. The sections are joined with flanges and gaskets to allow easier removal and replacement of the sections. All the sections are available from a Honda dealer or though many auto parts stores.
Instructions
1
Raise the rear of your CR-V with a jack and support the vehicle on a set of jack stands. Locate the two mounting bolts that join the muffler to the resonator pipe and remove them with a wrench or socket and ratchet.
2
Locate the two rubber isolators/hangers at the rear of the muffler assembly and remove the muffler from them. The muffler has two metal hooks that slide into the hangers; slide them out and remove the muffler from under the vehicle.
3
Locate the flange at the front of the resonator pipe where it meets the catalytic converter. Remove the three bolts with a socket and ratchet or wrench. Remove the resonator assembly from the two rubber hangers that support it just as you did with the ones on the muffler. Remove the resonator from under the vehicle.
4
Inspect the catalytic converter to determine whether it will need replacing or not. If it does need replacing, removal is the same as the other sections, taking out the flange bolts and removing it from the car. In most cases, this is not required.
5
Raise the new resonator pipe into position under the vehicle and hang the assembly in the rubber hangers by inserting the support rods welded on the pipe into the holes in the hanger. Install a new gasket between the catalytic converter and the resonator flange, then install the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.
6
Install the new muffler into the rubber hangers in the rear of the vehicle, again sliding the support rods into the holes in the rubber hanger. Raise the front of the muffler, then insert a new gasket between the two flanges and install the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet or a wrench.
7
Raise your CR-V off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the vehicle. Lower the CR-V to the ground carefully and remove the jack. Start the vehicle and listen for any exhaust leaks, especially where the flanges join. If you find any leaks, tighten the mounting bolts in those locations with a wrench until the leak stops.
The two Toyota engines, 4A-FE and 7A-FE, have many similarities, and yet they are distinct in several ways. They were both used in Corolla model cars. However, there are some notable differences between the two engines. If you are an automotive mechanic who specializes in Toyota repair, familiarize yourself with the differences between these two engines.
Displacement
The 4A-FE has a displacement of 1.6 liters, while the 7A-FE has a displacement of 1.8 liters. The larger displacement of the 7A-FE gives it more horsepower and torque, which generally results in better engine performance.
Horsepower
Horsepower is a measure of how much power an engine produces and is analogous to the SI unit watt. One horsepower is roughly equivalent to 745 watts. Horsepower is achieved by combusting fuel in pistons and spinning a crank shaft. The more fuel supplied to the engine, the faster the crank shaft spins. The rate at which the crank shaft spins is measured in rotations per minute (RPM). The horsepower of a 4A-FE has a range of 103 to 105, with 105 achieved at an engine RPM of 5,800. The 7A-FE has a horsepower of 115 at an RPM of 5,600.
Torque
Torque is a measure of angular force and uses the SI unit newton-meter. However, automobiles often use the non-SI unit foot-pounds. In relation to automobile engines, torque primarily affects acceleration and towing capacity. The 4A-FE has a torque of 100 to 102 foot-pounds at an RPM of 4,800. The 7A-FE has a torque of 115 foot-pounds at an RPM of 2,800.
Head Gasket, Oil Pan and Crankshaft
The 7A-FE uses a different head gasket than the 4A-FE. The gasket is composed of two layers of metal. The oil pan is also different on the 7A-FE. It is made of two separate pieces, one composed of aluminum and one composed of steel. The 7A-FE has a modified crankshaft that matches the higher power output of the 7A-FE engine.
Mandrel-bent tubing describes a process that puts curves and angles in thin-wall tubes or pipes. Mandrel bending requires large press-like machines that have guides and cones to curve tubes and pipes at precise angles, and are used primarily for exhaust systems on gas- and diesel-powered vehicles of any size, as well as motorcycles and many smaller engines. Mandrel-bending machines also come in smaller, manual versions that are portable. Mandrel bending has become an alternative to standard bending processes, because of its faster and more efficient process.
Mandrel Tube Bending Machines
Mandrel tube bending machines come in small manual models or large industrial versions. The manual versions consist of a bed upon which the pipe or tube is placed, and then cinched down within a curved guide. Pulling a handle bends the pipe over an angled chock to the desired bend, such as 45, 90, or 180 degrees. Large industrial mandrel-bending machines use electricity to run hydraulic servos, where the operation is done automatically. The electric mandrel benders can be programmed for bend distances and angles. They come equipped with auto-loaders to feed the pipe, and head shifters to change the bend at any location on the pipe or tube.
Tubing and Pipes
Common tubes and pipes used in the mandrel-bending process include a large market in the automotive industry, which requires all manner of exhaust pipes, chassis frames and roll bars. Industrial applications require special bent tubes and pipes for free-flow gases and liquid conduits. Copper, steel, stainless steel, galvanized, titanium and other alloy-constructed pipes and tubes that have thin-wall construction provide the best material for the mandrel-bending process. The tube and pipe diameters can range from one to four inches, or more.
Mandrel Bending Advantages
Mandrel bending, as opposed to standard bending techniques, do not crush the pipe during the bending process. Therefore, the inside surface diameter is not lessened or closed off, which can create back pressure. Mandrel bending ensures a complete, unrestricted flow with no serrations or metal deformity. Mandrel bending can increase flow up to 35 percent in systems that require numerous sharp bends and custom patterns. Mandrel bending can increase exhaust flow in automotive vehicles, adding to horsepower and torque.
Customization
Mandrel bending can be customized for intricate angle patterns that require one-piece designs, eliminating the need for sectioning and the purchase of kits that have numerous assembly parts. Since the bend designs are programmed and kept in a computer database, in the case of the automated systems, the data can be recalled for producing multiple copies, or re-fabricating exact copies as replacement parts. Mandrel bending costs no more than standard bending, and takes less time and effort to fashion bends and patterns.
The Ford Taurus automatic may have a stick shift lever on the steering column or it may have a gear shift in the floor. If the gears fail to engage, it could be a problem with the cable or something more serious in the transmission.
Main Reasons
The most likely cause of a stick shift lever failing to engage the automatic transmission will be the gear lever shift cable. The cable can snap over time or become disengaged. In the case of this type of occurrence, the only recourse is to replace the shift cable.
Floor Shift Models
In the case of floor shift models, the same thing can happen, but the cable is fixed in a different fashion. It will likely travel in a horizontal direction from the shift lever to the transmission. If the cable shows signs of resistance it may need a simple adjustment, but again, if snapping occurs, replacing it will be the only option.
Other Possibilities
If the gears will attempt to engage but fail, or you find that you can start your Taurus while it is in a gear other than park, you may need to take your car to an approved mechanic.
A vehicles intake manifold distributes the mixture of fuel and air to the engine cylinders. If the intake manifold is cracked or the mating surfaces are warped, this will cause the fuel/air to leak and the manifold must be replaced. The following instructions are general for removing and installing the manifold. The exact procedure can vary with each model, however, especially regarding the exact wires and lines connected to the manifold. It is very important that you have a manual written specifically for your model vehicle.
Removal
Because you are working on the fuel system, you need to depressurize the system. Remove the fuel pump relay from the fuse box and then start the engine until it stalls. You are also working with electrical connectors, so disconnect the negative cable from the battery. The manifold is also connected to the cooling system, so you must either drain the coolant or clamp off the coolant hose to the manifold before disconnecting it. Once all these precautions are done, disconnect all electrical connectors and lines attached to the manifold. This can include hoses from the radiator and air duct, the fuel lines, fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulators vacuum hoses, along with the electrical connectors to the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, A/C compressor, alternator and starter. Now remove the nuts and/or bolts securing the manifold--use a torque wrench and make 1/4-turns until you can remove the bolts by hand. Remove the intake manifold.
Installation
Remove all traces of the gasket/sealant material from the engine cylinder heads with a gasket scraper, and make sure there is none on the manifolds surfaces as well. Clean those surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner. If any material falls into the cylinder head intake ports, remove it with a vacuum cleaner. Clean up the bolts (or the manifolds studs) and apply a thin coat of engine oil to the threads. Apply a new gasket or RTV sealant to the manifolds mating surface. Make sure the intake ports, coolant holes and bolt holes are all properly aligned as you install the manifold in place and tighten the nuts/bolts. Now reconnect all the hoses, lines and electrical connectors to the manifold. Once everything is connected, you can unclamp the coolant hoses and reconnect the battery cable and fuel pump relay. Re-pressurize the fuel system by repeatedly turning on the engine for two seconds and then leaving it off for five. Start up the engine and see if oil or coolant leaks at the manifolds joints.
Many older cars develop exhaust leaks from the exhaust pipe. As a result, fluid and loud noise can come from the car. These problems can become difficult to ignore and should be repaired. Though bringing the car to a mechanic may be your first thought, this can be costly. Fixing the issue yourself can save time and money. Its a fairly straightforward process that can be completed in just a few steps.
Instructions
1
Locate the leak on the exhaust. Pay special attention to any joints.
2
Sand the area on and around the leaks. This will clean and expose the area, allowing for the patchwork to bond correctly.
3
Cut a piece of sheet metal to cover an area slightly larger than the leak.
4
Mold the metal to fit around the curve of the exhaust manually. Press the sheet metal around the exhaust.
5
Turn your car on long enough to warm the exhaust but do not let it get so hot that you cannot work on it safely. Once the exhaust is warm, turn the car off.
6
Secure the sheet metal patch to the exhaust with patch tape. Apply enough tape to cover more than the area of the leak and patch. The warm exhaust will hold the tape and metal in place.
7
Turn the car on. Let the exhaust become hot. This will create a strong bond between the tape and the metal.
If you have a television or computer monitor powered by a liquid crystal display (LCD), chances are it contains a backlight. A backlight is a form of illumination that is placed in the back of an electronic device to help produce a visible image. Since television and computer monitors can malfunction, knowing different backlight issues can help you figure out where the problem is occurring.
Screen Brightness
One of the major indications that your backlight has malfunctioned is if your computer screen appears dim or goes completely dark. Press your screens "Menu" button, navigate to the brightness and contrast levels, and adjust them to appropriate working levels to see if that fixes the problem. Another way to detect a malfunctioning backlight is if the screens background is still visible but words and images are faded or hard to see. A dark screen can mean your backlight has burned out, whereas a faded screen indicates the screen is near the end of its working life.
Flickering Screen
A flickering screen indicates that the backlight is about to blow. Like a regular light bulb that flickers before it goes out, the same thing tends to happen with a backlight. Screens can flicker in a variety of ways that include the movement of certain words or images, or a flicker of the whole screen.
Monitor Shutdown
A television or computer monitor that has a bad backlight tends to shut down automatically after only a few minutes of being powered on, or not turn on altogether. This is a safety mechanism of the monitor that prevents it from overheating when attempting to work with a malfunctioning backlight.
Backlight Inverter
The inverter is a small-computerized system that sends power to the backlight. Its a good idea to inspect the cables that run from the inverter to the backlight for tight connections and damage. Because the inverter and backlight are dependent on each other, a malfunctioning inverter could lead to severe problems with your backlight, such as flickering, and dim and blank screens.
Contrast Levels
A computer, television or other LCD screens uses contrast and brightness levels that you can manually adjust to help view the screens images more easily. A good indication that a backlight is malfunctioning or about to burn out is when your monitor doesnt respond to its brightness and contrast controls.
The "Check Engine Light" informs a driver of mechanical issues, such as emmision-control malfunction, vacuum loss and even complete engine failure. Vehicles with a flashing "check engine light" might fail emission-standards tests in some states.
Replace
Taking apart the dashboard is required to access the bulb in the check-engine light. Completing this task is challenging on some older vehicles. Disabling the check-engine light should never be attempted; it is illegal due to emissions regulations.
Repair
A check-engine light is often often triggered by temporary problems. Once the light is on, it will generally stay on due to activated codes. Purchasing a device to clear these codes might sometims cause the light to turn off.
Testing
Failure of certain vehicle systems might cause a check-engine light to come on. Testing performed on these systems can reveal the source of the light. Checking the fuel or ignition system is usually required.
A heated side mirror is a useful feature that is included on many cars. The heat in the mirror helps to prevent the mirror from fogging up during inclement weather. Collisions and years of use can cause the heated side mirrors to become broken or ineffectual. Replacing a heated side mirror is easy to do. Visit your local dealer or auto parts store to purchase a replacement heated side mirror for your car. Once you have the mirror it should only take an hour or two to replace the mirror.
Instructions
1
Open the front door. Find the screws that hold the door panel and mirror trim in place. Remove the screws with a screwdriver and remove both the door panel and the mirror trim.
2
Find the screws that hold the existing side mirrors in place. Remove the screws with a screwdriver and set them aside. Disconnect the wires in the old mirrors. The wires should be connected in a cable that is simple to slide away from the wiring in the side mirror. Slip the old mirror out of place. Repeat with the other side mirror.
3
Thread the wiring of the new heated side mirror through the hole in the door. Screw the mirror into place with the screws that you set aside. Connect the wires in the heated mirror to the wires in the door. The cables should connect easily. Replace the door panel and window trim and screw them into place with a screwdriver. Repeat with the other side mirror and door.
Convertibles are one of the most exhilarating cars to drive. Driving with the top down and a warm summer breeze flowing through your hair can be great, but what happens when the warm summer weather turns to rain and you notice that the convertible top is leaking? Taking your leaking convertible top to the repair shop can be very expensive. Fixing it yourself may be the best option.
Instructions
1
Determine where the leak is coming from. This should be simple. With a hose or bucket of water, slowly pour water along the top and look to identify the exact location of the leak. If the leak is a rip in the seam or tear in the vinyl, this can be fixed on your own. If the leak is caused from top not closing tight enough to the car then it is generally recommended that you take the car into the shop for repair.
2
Start stitching the tear. Once the tear is identified, take the vinyl thread and needle and stitch it tightly back to together.
3
Apply a small code of heavy-duty glue. At this point, only apply a small amount of glue. Simply use your finger to spread a thin coat over the entire seam and stitching on the topside of the convertible.
4
Repeat step 3 for the tear inside the car. Let both sides dry for 24 hours.
5
Prepare the vinyl patch. Cut the patch so it completely covers the tear. Apply a coat of seam sealer or heavy-duty glue to the patch and apply the patch to the area of concern. Do the same for the underside of the convertible top. Let both patches dry.
GMC introduced the Yukon in 1992, and the Yukon Denali in 1999. The 2001 GMC Yukon was available with a 4.6-liter V-8 engine or a 5.3-liter V-8 engine in the base model SLE and SLT. The Denali was given a 6.0-liter V-8 engine from the factory. The oil in the 2001 Yukon should be changed every three months or 3,000 miles, or as indicated by the "Oil Life" indicator built into the instrument cluster. The type (not weight) of oil you use should depend on your driving styles and how many miles are on the vehicle.
Instructions
1
Lift the front of the Yukon with a jack. Place jack stands beneath the front subframe rails. Lower the truck onto the jack stands.
2
Lay beneath the front of the truck and slide yourself in a position to access the rear of the oil pan. The oil pan is the cast aluminum pan directly beneath the engine. Slide a drain pan beneath the oil pan.
3
Loosen the oil drain plug with an open-end wrench. Turn the drain plug out with your fingers. Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan for no less than three minutes. Insert the drain plug back into the oil pan. Tighten the plug to 25 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.
4
Move the drain pan underneath the oil filter. The filter is located at the rear drivers side of the oil pan. Remove the filter with a filter wrench, then dispose of it into the drain pan. Wipe the filter mating surface on the engine with a clean rag. Remove any pieces of old gasket.
5
Open a fresh bottle of oil. Dip your finger tip in the bottle, then rub the fresh oil onto the gasket of the new oil filter. Thread new oil filter onto the threaded tube at the rear of the oil pan. Once the gasket makes contact, tighten the filter 3/4 turn more. Do not over-tighten it.
6
Lower the Yukon to the ground. Remove the oil fill cap on the engine. Add 6-quarts of 5w30 motor oil to the engine. Replace the oil fill cap when you are finished.
7
Start the engine and immediately inspect underneath the car for any leaks. Allow the engine to run for approximately 15 seconds, and turn it off. Wait two minutes for the oil to settle into the oil pan, and check the level with the dipstick. Add oil as needed to bring the level to the "Full" mark.
Marine engines need to cool themselves internally to ensure consistent performance. The Evinrude Outboard does this by pumping water into the exhaust manifold. Over time, parts of the water pump fall victim to wear and tear, which reduces the effectiveness of the pump. Without a fully functioning water pump, the engine can overheat, leading to further damage.
Instructions
1
Open the Evinrude Outboards lower unit to gain access to the water pump. This is located at the top of the unit.
2
Place a drive shaft seal into the opening on top of the water pump housing, using a socket wrench to push the seal firmly into place. Cover the seal lightly in grease.
3
Put a new water tube grommet in the top of the pump housing.
4
Put gasket sealing compound on the replacement gasket for the impeller plate. The gasket fits onto the lower unit cover. The impeller plate fits on top of this.
5
Place the drive pin into the driveshaft. You may find a small amount of grease helps with this process.
6
Paint a thin coat of grease on the opening to the impeller housing and slide the impeller down onto the drive shaft. When done correctly, the groove in the impeller will slide over the drive pin.
7
Slip the pump housing over the impeller and twist the driveshaft by hand in a clockwise motion.
8
Place the water pump over the lower units studs. Add lock washer and nuts, tightening with a torque wrench to 75 inch-pounds.
Auto glass, or a car windshield, is the front window of a car that protects occupants of a car from the elements. Auto windshields are typically made of tempered glass designed to break into many small pieces without sharp edges. Removing and replacing a windshield is not a difficult job, but it is a job that can be done better by professional installers. Nevertheless, the determined DIYer can follow a few steps.
Instructions
1
Remove the windshield wipers, using a socket wrench. Seal any vents in front of the windshield with masking tape to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the vents. Cover the front seats with old cloth to protect them from debris and dirt. Cover any other vents on the cars dashboard to prevent glass and other particles from getting inside the vents.
2
Unscrew the trim at the base of the windshield with a screwdriver. Pry off any other trim around the windshield. Embed the pointed tip of a windshield removal tool into the rubber seal along the edge of the windshield, but make sure you do not hit the glass. Following the manufacturers instructions on how to safely handle the windshield removal tool, cut the rubber seal at the edge of the windshield by dragging the cutting tool all the way around the windshield several times. Apply enough pressure on the windshield removal tool while cutting to ensure that the cutting tip penetrates deep into the rubber seal.
3
Recline the cars front seats. Lie back in the drivers seat, place a foot against each side of the windshield, and gently push the windshield outward, but do not kick the glass. Have a helper grab the glass to prevent it from falling, and to remove it. Pull away the remaining rubber seal around the windshield frame. Remove old sealant along the edge of the metal frame with a putty knife. Clean the edges of the metal frame with a rag.
4
Prepare the glass by applying primer specially matched to the urethane adhesive on the black band around the perimeter of the windshield. Apply a consistent bead of urethane adhesive around the metal edge of the windshield frame, using a caulk gun. Mount the glass carefully onto the opening and align the top, bottom and sides of the windshield to the metal frame. Press the windshield down gently to allow the bead of adhesive to spread slightly.
5
Let the adhesive set for the recommended time, then reinstall the trim pieces. Note that the adhesive must completely cure before the vehicle can be driven. Replace the windshield wiper, and clean the windshield.
A vehicles alternator is also known as a generator. It works in partnership with your cars voltage regulator and battery to generate electricity. It keeps the electrical current necessary to run your lights, starter and other devices. Testing, replacing or repairing an alternator requires specialty tools beyond your basic socket wrench, vise grip or screwdriver.
Tester
This is a custom device that tests for defective alternators and performs a comprehensive check of the battery. The battery is attached by cables to the alternator and works hand-in-hand with it to run the electrical system of your vehicle. The tester checks the current state of the charge on maintenance-free batteries and conventional models. It also searches for the alternators output voltage and any excess starter current.
Pulley Puller and Installer
This tool removed and installs an alternators entire pulley system. This system has the alternator drive belt attached to it. The drive belt turns the alternators drive wheel that generates electricity to be stored by the battery.
Ratchet or Tensioner Breaker Bar
Your cars alternator is run by the cars drive belt. The belt needs to be removed to remove the alternator. The belt is wrapped around a pulley called a tensioner, which keeps the belt tight while it turns the alternator drive wheel. To remove the belt, you must relieve the belts tension with a rachet or " tensioner breaker bar."
Insulator Wrench
This type of insulated wrench prevents accidental shock from the battery when you remove the battery wire from the alternator. The nut holding the battery wire needs an insulated wrench to keep the battery terminal stud where the wire is attached from turning.
A broken harmonic balancer bolt can cost a lot of money to have professionally removed from the threaded hole in which it is stuck. An EasyOut can help you remove the broken section of the bolt without the hassle of bringing your vehicle to a mechanic. Special care needs to be taken to make sure you do not damage the threads in the harmonic balancer or break off the hardened EasyOut inside the bolt. A broken EasyOut requires a professional machinist to remove both the broken bolt and EasyOut.
Instructions
1
Spray penetrating oil on the end of the broken bolt. Allow the penetrating oil to soak in around the bolt for five to six hours.
2
Align the tip of a center punch with the center of the broken bolt. Hit the center punch with a hammer to make a depression on the end of the broken bolt.
3
Secure a 1/8-inch left-hand drill bit in the chuck of a drill motor. Drill a hole at least 1/2-inch deep in the end of the bolt, using the center punch depression as a guide to hold the drill bit in place. Exchange the 1/8-inch drill bit for the drill bit recommended by an EasyOut set for the size of the broken bolt. Enlarge the hole with the larger drill bit.
4
Set the squared end of the recommended EasyOut into the tee-handle wrench supplied with the set. Tighten the handle of the wrench to hold the EasyOut in place.
5
Place the tapered end of the EasyOut in the drilled hole running through the center of the broken bolt. Turn the tee-handle wrench counterclockwise to force the EasyOut into the hole. Continue turning the wrench until the broken section of the bolt backs out of the threaded hole.
You should avoid jump starting a BMW E30 if at all possible. The E30 is part of the BMW 3 series, manufactured from 1982 until 1994. Jump starting an E30 can cause damage to electrical components, such as terminals, fuses, cable ties, batteries, bulbs and lead lamps. Disconnecting the battery and charging it is suggested. Unfortunately, events can strand you by the side of the road and jump starting your E30 could be your last resort.
Instructions
1
Park the cars close enough together so that the jumper cables will reach but far enough that the vehicles are not touching each other.
2
Consult your BMW E30 owners handbook to determine the location of the battery. The location will vary depending on the vehicle model. The battery can be found in the engine compartment, under the rear seat or in the rear luggage compartment.
3
Turn both ignitions to the off position. Confirm that all electrical equipment is in the off position in the BMW E30.
4
Clamp one end of the positive jumper cable to the BMW E30 batterys positive terminal. Jumper cables have a set of clamps colored red and/or marked with a plus symbol for positive (+) and colored black and/or marked with a minus symbol for negative (-).
5
Clamp the other positive end of the positive jumper cable to the working batterys positive terminal.
6
Clamp one end of the negative jumper cable to the negative terminal of the working battery.
7
Clamp the other end of the negative jumper cable to the engine block of the BMW E30. This grounds the connection to protect against a power surge.
8
Start the engine of the car with the working battery.
9
Start the BMW E30. Check your connections and adjust them as needed if the car does not start.
10
Remove the cables in the opposite order they were attached.
11
Run the engine of the BMW E30 for at least 20 minutes to allow the battery to recharge.
If you want a simple aftermarket do-it-yourself project to perform on your vehicle, then installing some HID headlights may be the perfect choice. Not only will this give your automobile a fresh, European look; it will also provide you with headlights that are more effective and efficient. HID headlights work with a small ballast that regulates the flow of electricity, allowing them to burn brighter longer. To perform this task youll only need a couple of basic hand tools and about half an hour.
Instructions
1
Park your vehicle in an area that is well lit and level. Turn off the engine and let it cool for up to half an hour. Then pull the release latch to pop the hood. Go directly behind the headlight assembly to locate the access panel.
2
Remove the access panel or dust cover. This is usually held on by a couple of clips or small screws. Once off, you should see the wiring harness connected to the headlight assembly. Squeeze the base of the plug and pull it free from the headlight.
3
Reach into the headlight assembly and grasp the actual bulb. Give it a quarter turn to the left and remove it. Insert the 9006 HID replacement bulb and turn it to the right to lock it in place.
4
Attach the ballast to the back of the headlight assembly with the double sided tape that comes in the HID kit, then plug the wiring harness into the ballast. There will be a connecting wire in the kit that connects the ballast to the headlight. This way the ballast acts as a middle man between the autos electrical system and the headlight.
An inexpensive alternative to buying pre-bent pipes, bending exhaust pipes yourself allows you to replace a leaking or rusted pipe quickly and efficiently. Bending your own exhaust pipes ensures the best fit possible, because you adjust the bends as required, creating the custom fit needed. Improper bending of exhaust pipes, especially when making tighter bends, can ruin the pipe by causing it to crease at the point of the bend. There are two ways to prevent pipe creasing, mandrel bending and filled-pipe bending. Filled-pipe bending is easiest with shorter pipes.
Instructions
Mandrel Bending
1
Measure the length of the pipe to the bend. On 90-degree bends, measure this as the distance from the end of the previous pipe to where you want the far wall of the pipe after the bend. For smaller bends, this is where you want the change in direction to begin. Add two to three inches for pipe connection overlap where the pipe clamp connects. Mark this distance on the pipe slated for bending.
2
Locate the diamond or triangle mark on the bender mandrel and line up the point of this mark with the mark you measured and made on the pipe.
3
Bend the pipe until it reaches the desired bend angle. Remove the pipe from the mandrel.
4
Hold the pipe in place to verify proper fit and adjust as necessary to provide the custom fit desired.
Filled-Pipe Bending
5
Perform the same measurement and marking as in Step 1 for mandrel bending.
6
Pack the pipe tightly with sand and cap both ends of the pipe. There must be enough pressure in the pipe to prevent the walls of the pipe from collapsing when you make the bend. Put the welding gloves on.
7
Clamp the exhaust pipe firmly in the vise, with the mark you made in Step 1 just visible at the vise. Light the torch following the directions that came with it, heat the pipe at the point of the bend until pliable, and pull the pipe towards you to make the bend.
8
Remove the pipe from the vise and hold it in place to check its fit and adjust your bend as necessary.
9
Remove the caps from the pipe and flush the pipe with water.
A leak in your cars head gasket signals a serious mechanical issue that needs immediate repair. The head gasket provides the mating material between the engine case halves that when open expose the engines piston chambers. This area is under high pressure when the engine runs, providing the combustion needed to move the car. A leak in the head gasket allows this pressure to leak, creating engine-performance problems that worsen. Several products exist to repair the issue, but the first repair involves opening the engine case and resealing it properly again.
Non-Invasive Products
Block seal head-gasket repair chemicals are introduced through the coolant system. These chemicals circulate through the engine while its running and clog areas where the head gasket may be leaking or blown. While not involving opening the engine case, this product can be hit-and-miss in application since it must circulate to the problem area. It cannot be used while antifreeze is still in the coolant tube. The antifreeze must be drained first.
Gaskets and Gasket Types
A new head gasket must be installed if the engine is opened. The old gasket may not be recycled or cleaned up to be used again. The old gasket is already compressed by the original assembly and wont work again. Many times it is also damaged on removal. The multiple-layers steel gasket is the typical gasket replacement used in modern cars for gasket replacements. The solid copper head gasket provides a solid seal but requires machining by a mechanic to fit properly. The extra work adds to repair costs.
The composite head gaskets are constructed from granite or asbestos. Due to the materials these gaskets are not favored anymore due to poor performance and also the health risk of asbestos in general.
Elastomeric head gaskets incorporate a steel center wrapped by silicone rubber. This provides a center integrity with a squishable edge for sealing. Unfortunately, the design failed on a performance level too often so their use has fallen out of favor.
Secondary Additives
Gasket sealant provides a silicone-based gum seal between the gasket and the metal engine parts closed up. This product primarily is used on older engines as more modern engine cases are fine-tuned to fit tightly when closed up with a new gasket.
A GM harmonic or harmonic balancer is a piece of equipment that absorbs the vibrations produced by a GM engine. It is engineered with a tough metal exterior, but a small portion of its interior is manufactured from rubber. This material is likely to wear over time and through extensive use, so a GM harmonic puller is a specialist tool required to remove and replace the existing harmonic balancer with a new one.
Use a GM Harmonic Balancer Puller Set
The task of removing a damaged or worn harmonic balancer from a vehicle is difficult, so using the correct tooling is crucial. A harmonic balancer puller set includes several specialist tools and fittings that can be used to assist each stage of the application. This set can also be used to remove and restore gear pulleys, as well as to adjust steering wheels. It includes hardened steel forcing screws and numerous sets of washer head bolts, along with the standard puller with fortified jaw design. This set allows users to remove a harmonic balancer effectively and in a time effective manner.
Use a GM Brand Harmonic Puller
Using a brand specific tool will reduce the rsik of damage or restriction when removing the harmonic puller.
Automotive manufacturers utilize different engine designs in their vehicles, so it is wise to use brand specific tools when performing repairs or restoration. A GM harmonic puller is designed to remove GM and Chrysler equipment, and is therefore specifically manufactured to use on certain engines. This particular tool has a special three-jaw puller design that is both compact and robust, and can work in tight GM engine spaces without the need for removing the radiator. It can also be used with tailored lengths of forcing rods and suitably-sized forced screws. Using the correct tool also helps protect otter components within the engine from damage.
Use Suitable Bolts to Attach the Harmonic Balancer Puller
During the removal process, a pulley is removed from the face of the harmonic balancer. Once this is complete, it is often the case that the bolts that held it in place are not suitable for use with the puller tool. Ideally, the puller is connected to the harmonic balancer using these bolts, but they may not be long or thick enough to be gripped efficiently by the puller. In this instance, specific bolts are available that are compatible with the tool, and leave at least a half inch of length to be fitted securely to the harmonic balancer. This ensures that the tool can be attached and the harmonic balancer can be moved accordingly.
