Repair 7

Air (pneumatic) suspensions are one of three basic types of suspensions, the other two being spring and hydraulic. While air suspensions do offer ride-height adjustability, the air-bag springs that they utilize to suspend the vehicle are slow to respond and dynamically inferior in almost every other way.

Handling

The standard air suspensions primary problem is that the user must reduce pressure in the air bag to drop the car and increase pressure to raise it. This results in a car that handles like a barge when its lowered and bucks like a concrete bronco when its set higher -- exactly the opposite of what youd want.

Heavy and Complicated

Air suspensions require a network of air hoses, junction regulators and control valves to function and an air compressor to fill the bags. While lighter than an equivalent hydraulic setup, these parts can add over 100 lbs. to the car, depending on compressor size. Moreover, every junction is an opportunity for leaks.

Slow Response

Air is elastic, meaning that it has mass and doesnt like to change direction. Air suspensions cannot respond to changes in road conditions with anything approaching the speed of an equivalent magneto-rheological (MR) dampener. An MR dampener uses a magnet to thicken the metallic fluid inside its body, allowing the cars computer to change ride firmness at the speed of electricity.

The GM and Hydra-Matic made TH400 is an automatic transmission. Also erred to as the "Turbo 400," the TH400 is considered very durable and of high quality, according to the auto experts at Novak-Adapt.com.

History

The TH400 started out in 1964 when it was used in Buicks and Cadillacs. After a few years in cars, GM began putting the Turbo 400 in trucks in the 1970s. In 1990 GM changed the name to the 3L80, though the transmission is still being used in GMs heavy-duty vehicles and in military applications.

Specifications

The TH400 weighs 135 lbs and is 24.37 inches long. Encased in smooth cast aluminum casing, the Turbo 400 is GMs largest automatic transmission and features a 3.48, 1.48 and one gearing.

Variations

GM created two alternate variations of the TH400. The TH475 was used in GMs most heavy-duty trucks starting in 1971. The TH375, used between 1972 and 1976, was used in cars with small displacement.

Potential

According to Novak-Adapt, the Turbo 400 is a popular transmission often used in Jeep conversions. Theyve also been used in GM vehicles, Rolls-Royces, Jaguars and even Ferrari models.

If the headlights on your Pontiac Grand Am are malfunctioning, they should be fixed immediately. Malfunctioning headlights reduce road visibility and make it difficult for other drivers to see your vehicle on the road in darkened conditions. Troubleshooting the headlights on your Grand Am is a simple process that involves checking the wiring, checking the bulb, and checking the fuse of your headlights.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Grand Am. Remove the keys from the ignition.

2

Lift up on the two retaining clips securing the headlamp assembly.

3

Pull the headlamp assembly out of the mounting bracket. This will reveal the electrical connector. Lightly tug on the electrical connector. If it comes out, plug it into the rear of the headlamp assembly. Make sure it is secure by lightly tugging it again. If the headlights are still malfunctioning, there may be an issue with the bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector and completely remove the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle.

4

Rotate the bulb assembly retainer counterclockwise and pull it out.

5

Unclip the bulb assembly from the wiring harness. Remove the old bulb and place the new bulb into the assembly.

6

Reattach the wiring harness to the bulb assembly. Place the bulb assembly back into the headlamp assembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place. Reattach the electrical connector.

7

Place the headlamp assembly back into the mount bracket. Press down on the two retaining clips to lock the headlamp assembly into place. Repeat on the other side headlamp if necessary. If the headlights are still not turning on, then there may be an issue with the headlamp fuses.

8

Open the underhood fuse block on the drivers side of the vehicle. Simply lift the cover on the fuse block to access the fuses. Underneath the cover is a fuse puller tool and several replacement fuses.

9

Locate the fuses numbered "50" and "51." "50" is the right-hand headlamp fuse and "51" is the left-hand headlamp fuse. Check to see if the fuses are broken. A fuse is broken if the metal inside the fuse is no longer in one piece. If either fuse is broken, use the provided fuse puller tool to remove the fuse. Replace it with an identical 15 amp fuse.

10

Place the cover back onto the fuse block. Close the hood.

Fuel pump failure will stop a car in its tracks. An engine sputtering and shutting off is the most notable sign of pump failure. If there is gas in your tank and your car sputters and shuts down you may need to replace your fuel pump. The fuel pump is located inside your gas tank and it can be replaced within two to five hours with all of the proper tools.

Instructions

Relieve Fuel Pressure

1

Remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the gas tank.

2

Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump assembly that is located behind the fuel filter hose, if you have a model with port fuel injection. The fuel filter hose is near the fuel filter just in front of the back tire on the passengers side.

3

Run the engine until it uses all of the remaining fuel and stops running.

4

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Remove Fuel Tank

5

Siphon gas out of your tank or use the fuel up if it is more than one-eighth full. Use a siphon pump to siphon fuel out of your vehicle. Insert one hose end in to the gas tank and the other in to a fuel-safe container. Pump the fuel out of the tank into the container.

6

Engage the emergency brake and block the front wheels. Raise the back of your vehicle up with a jack and place it on jack stands. Remove the jack.

7

Disconnect the wiring for the fuel pump assembly if you have not already done so. Disconnect the vapor return hose, the filler neck, and the vent tubes. Disconnect the fuel feed hose, and the fuel-return hose as well.

8

Support the fuel tank with the jack and remove both restraining straps. Lower the tank until you can access the wires and remove the ground strap and the wire.

9

Lower the fuel tank to the ground and bring it out from under your car.

Remove the Fuel Pump

10

Using a punch and hammer, gently tap the inner ring counter clockwise until the inner cams are free.

11

Pull the fuel pump out of the tank. Make sure not to bump it on anything because the fuel level float and the fuel sending unit are delicate and even a small bump will render the readings inaccurate.

12

Check the o-ring on top of the fuel pump and the filter on the bottom of it. If the o-ring is cracked or dry, replace it. If the filter cannot be cleaned, it must be replaced.

Solvent-based clear coats are used in the automotive industry to add gloss and protection to a colored paint. The most resilient clear coat products are made from urethane because of the hard, durable surface that it provides. Urethane application requires the correct equipment.

Mixing

Urethane products are used alongside a hardener and a thinner to promote fast drying times and an effective flow of material. Waxed measuring cups can be used for mixing small quantities but those completing repaints will require aluminium mixing pots, measuring sticks and ultra-fine grade filters to remove traces or hair, grit or other debris.

Spraying Equipment

Modern urethane products are applied using HVLP spray guns. Clear coats are atomized during the spraying process and this procedure is optimised by using the correct fluid tip set-up inside the gun. A compressor should be used and an air pressure regulator is required to help control material output.

Drying and Cleaning

Ideally, urethane products should be applied in a professional paint booth where low-bake facilities are provided. If this is not possible, ultra violet light stands are available to help promote faster drying times in ambient temperatures. Cellulose thinners should be used in HVLP spray guns to help clean and remove all traces of urethane products.

The rear seal for your cub crank is found right behind the main bearing journal on your vehicles crankshaft. This seal is used to keep the oil inside the crankshaft and the oil pan. If you have noticed oil leaking from the back of your vehicles crankshaft, you probably need to replace this seal. Having a mechanic replace this seal could easily cost $200 to $300. However, if you do it yourself, you can replace the seal for about $50.

Instructions

1

Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it. Remove the oil nut with a nut driver and allow the oil to drain into a drain pan. Use the nut driver to remove the radiator fluid nut from the engine. Allow the radiator fluid to drain into another drain pan.

2

Use a wrench to remove the motor mounts from your engine. Disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud from your engine. Use a wrench to unbolt the engine from the vehicles transmission if needed.

3

Use a jack to raise the engine off of the engine mounts. Use a wrench to remove the oil pan from the engine. Pull the oil pan from the engine and use a nut driver to remove the bolts from the oil pan.

4

Pry the bearing cap off of the oil pan with a putty knife. Make sure that you do not scratch the crankshaft. Use a brass punch to remove the upper part of the seal. Tap the brass punch with a hammer until the seal comes off of the oil pan.

5

Install your new seal to the oil pan. Rotate the crankcase shaft while holding the seal on the oil pan. Use a sealer to make sure that your new seal will retain the oil. Reinstall the oil pan on the engine. Use your nut drivers to secure the oil pan bolts on the engine.

6

Lower the engine and remove the jack. Reinstall the transmission to the engine. Reinstall the fan shroud, the fan and the radiator hoses on your engine. Replace the motor mounts to secure the motor in place. Refill the engine oil and the radiator coolant.

Toyota introduced the MR2 in 1985, intending to offer the look and feel of an exotic sports car for the fraction of the price. The first generation of the vehicle ran from 1985 to 1989; the second generation ran from 1991 to 1995, when Toyota discontinued it. Toyota offered the convertible MR2 Spyder from 2000 to 2005, but it was technically a different vehicle and should not be confused with the original MR2.

Caster

The ideal setting for the caster angle on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +3.25 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The caster angle was not adjustable on the rear wheels of the vehicle because it came with a fixed rear axle.

Camber

The ideal setting for the camber angle on the front wheels of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was -1.0 degree but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the camber angle on the rear wheels was -1.58 degrees but it could range by 0.75 degrees in either direction.

Toe-in

The ideal setting for the toe-in on the front end of the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +0.1 degree but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the rear end was +0.4 degrees but it could range by 0.2 degrees in either direction.

Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) and Turning Angle

The ideal SAI for the 1995 Toyota MR2 was +13.8 degrees but it could range by 0.8 degrees in either direction. The ideal turning angle was 37/32 degrees but it could range by 1.5 degrees in either direction.

Driving any automobile is nothing, if not an exercise in constant blind faith. Just the fact that any soccer mom in the world can take a 50 mph curve without wondering what would happen if a tire blew, a ball joint broke or an axle-shaft snapped is testament to the pragmatic advantages of deliberate ignorance. Still, it never hurts to be prepared for any eventuality, especially if you find yourself in circumstances where breakage is likely.

Open Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

Most cars use "open" differentials, which route power to the wheel with the least traction. If you break an axle-shaft or constant velocity joint in a front-wheel drive car with an open differential while accelerating in a straight line, then power will simply flow into the broken axle and spin it. The engine will rev and the axle will spin, but the car wont move. The same goes for front axle-shafts in a 4WD truck, but if the axle tube itself breaks, then odds are that your truck will nose-dive into the road.

Locked Differential, Accelerating in a Straight Line

Many performance cars use locked, limited-slip or "torque biasing" differentials. Locked axles are just that; the left and right wheels always turn at the same speed. Limited-slip differentials can transfer some or all of the power to the wheel with the most traction -- the one spinning slower -- and torque-biasing differentials can transfer some, but not all of the power. With any of these differentials, the car will suddenly veer in the direction of the broken axle since the other wheel is the one doing all the pushing.

Open Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

If the axle-shaft is on the inside of a curve -- the right side for a right-hander, left for a left-hander -- while accelerating out of a curve, the vehicle will most likely dart inward toward the curve. Front-wheel drive cars and trucks in 4WD naturally exhibit a certain amount of understeer as the front tires struggle to both accelerate the car and keep it turning. Should the axle-shaft break on a front-wheel drive car, itll quickly-turn into a no-wheel-drive and probably exhibit neutral handling. A 4WD truck or all-wheel drive car will suddenly turn into a rear-driver, which can result in snap oversteer and a probable spinout if the driver doesnt lift off the gas soon enough.

LS or TB Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

Front-wheel drives with a limited-slip or torque biasing differential will exhibit a somewhat more severe oversteer condition as power flows from the inside tire to the outside. A clutch-type limited slip may induce a severe oversteer condition and possible spinout, if its powerful enough to transfer all of the engines power to one wheel. The same goes for all-wheel cars and 4WD trucks with an LS or TB differential, but far more so.

Locked Differential, Accelerating Out of a Curve

Fully locked front differentials will act a bit differently than those that allow the wheels to spin at different speeds. This is especially true off-road, which is the only place youre likely to see anything with a locked front differential. Cars have differentials because the outside tire has to turn faster than the inside tire; if you lock the differential, the inside tire will always spin while turning and contribute little to no traction. Under these circumstances, the truck may break either the inside or outside axle, depending on the conditions.

If the inside axle breaks, all the power will go to the outside tire, inducing an understeer condition. If the outside axle breaks, that tire will gain traction while the inside tire continues to spin, inducing a neutral to understeer condition. One caveat though, a locked differential may do exactly the opposite, particularly if the truck lacks the power to spin the outside tire while turning, or spin the inside tire during a tight turn.

Vance & Hines makes aftermarket replacement and performance exhausts for several motorcycle brands. The companys "Straight Shots "appear at a glance to be old-fashioned straight pipes, but the exhausts actually measure 1-3/4 inches in diameter by the engine and 2-1/4 inches at the tail. Baffles are a component in automobile and motorcycle exhausts that restrict how easily engine exhaust gases can escape. Engines need some exhaust back pressure to work efficiently, but baffles also restrict the potential power that can be realized in any motorcycle engine. All Vance & Hines exhausts come with replaceable baffles.

Instructions

1

Loosen the worm clamp screws on the heat shields on both exhaust pipes with a flat head screwdriver. Heat shields partially insulate riders and passengers from very hot exhaust pipes. Worm clamps are simple devices that are tightened or loosened by turning a screw.

2

Remove the heat shields. Some Vance & Hines exhausts allow baffle replacement by just loosening and turning the heat shields, but the shape of Straight Shot heat shields prevents them from turning.

3

Lay on your back and locate the two Allen head screws on the bottom of the exhaust, in rear of the seam where the header pipes and tailpipes connect. The rear screw is called the baffle screw.

4

Remove both baffle screws using an Allen wrench and save them.

5

Stick the jaws of a pair of pliers about one inch into the rear of each pipe. Close the jaws and pull the baffle out of each pipe.

The camshaft opens the valves in the engine which allows an air fuel mixture to enter the cylinder for ignition, after which the exhaust valve opens to release exhaust gas from the cylinder. The camshaft in a 350 Chevrolet engine has 16 eccentric lobes that when rotated push up on the lifters. The lifter pushes the push rod in back of the rocker arm which is on a fulcrum. The rocker in turn pushes down on the valve stem and opens the valve. One reason to install a new cam is to increase the lobe lift which increases performance and power.

Instructions

Remove the Old Camshaft

1

Drain the engine of antifreeze, by placing a drain pan under the radiator drain valve and open the drain. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose by loosening the clamps. Unbolt and remove the radiator. Most Chevy radiators are held in by two hold down brackets on top of the radiator. Once removed pull the radiator straight up.

2

Remove the water pump from the engine block, by removing the four, 3/8-inch bolts, two on each side located in the front of the engine. Disconnect the heater hoses by loosening the hose clamps.

3

Pull the harmonic balancer off the front of the crankshaft using the special puller. The puller bolts to the same bolt holes that hold the bottom engine pulley to the harmonic balancer. Thread the large center bolt in, to force the balancer off the crankshaft.

4

Unscrew the eight 1/4-inch bolts from the timing chain cover and remove the cover. Pull it off slowly so the seal is not damaged.

5

Align the two dots, one dot on the camshaft, the bigger gear, and one on the, crankshaft, the smaller gear. The dots must be aligned perfect at their closet point. The crankshaft must be rotated to do this. Rotate the crankshaft by threading a bolt into the front end of the crankshaft and turning it clockwise facing the engine or put the balancer on far enough to grip the crankshaft and turn it.

6

Mark the distributor housing and intake with a corresponding mark near the hold down clamp. Remove the distributor cap and make a corresponding mark on the inside distributor housing with the pointer on the rotor button. Unscrew the distributor hold down clamp and pull the distributor shaft straight up from the intake manifold. Be sure to remove the coil wire, vacuum hose, and unplug the distributor from the cowl.

7

Disconnect the fuel line and throttle linkage from the carburetor. Unbolt the intake manifold from the two cylinder heads and remove it. There are six bolts holding the manifold to each cylinder head. Use a big screwdriver to pry the intake up after the bolts have been removed. Sometimes the gasket adhesive glues the manifold to the cylinder heads.

8

Remove the valve covers from the heads. Loosen all the rocker arm nuts on all 16 rocker arms. Begin with number one cylinder, denoted by the first spark plug on the left cylinder head viewed from the front, and remove the push rod and the lifter from the engine. The push rod is under the rocker arm and the lifter is on the bottom of the push rod. The pushrod and lifter must go back in the same exact place they came out of. This must be done for all 16 lifters and push rods.

9

Remove the three small bolts from the camshaft gear, and pull the gear off. Support the timing chain so it does not fall into the small opening of the oil pan at the bottom of the crankshaft.

10

Bolt the camshaft removing tool to the three bolts holes on the front of the camshaft. Pull the camshaft out keeping it as level as possible, rotating it back and forth a bit to help it along.

Install the New Camshaft

11

Coat the camshaft lobes with assembly lube or heavy oil and apply a liberal amount around the bearing rounds of the camshaft. Attach the cam installation tool to the new cam. Caully slide the new cam into the engine rotating it while holding it level as it is pushed in.

12

Remove the cam installation tool. Bolt on the cam shaft gear, using a single bolt and the dowel pin for now. Turn the camshaft until the cam gear dot is in the six oclock position and perfectly inline with the crankshaft dot, which should still be at the very top. Remove the camshaft gear and place the timing chain over the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets while positioning the cam gear alignment with the dowel pin and the three bolts. Install the three bolts. It may take several attempts to get the exact position of the cam gear with the timing chain.

13

Apply lube to the lifters and slide them back in the exact same bore they came out of. Install the push rods back into the same lifters they were in when disassembled. Reposition the rocker arm on top of the push rod and thread the rocker nut a few turns onto the stud. Repeat this until all 16 lifters, push rods and rockers are back in the same exact place they were when the engine was disassembled.

14

Install the timing chain cover over the timing chain, using a new gasket and apply silicone gasket sealer to the oil pan contact area and tighten the screws.

15

Spot a new intake gasket to the cylinder heads and block. Apply a thin layer of silicone gasket sealer to the block gasket strips in the front and back of the block, to prevent oil leaks. Reinstall the intake manifold and bolts. Tighten the manifold bolts from the center out, alternating from one side to the other.

16

Push the harmonic balancer back onto the crankshaft. Be sure to line up the key and the key slot. Screw the bolt into the crankshaft and draw the balancer tight to the shaft.

17

Replace the water pump and radiator by reversing the steps in which they were removed. Also replace the fuel line and throttle linkage.

18

Slide the distributor back into the intake hole and into the oil pump rod slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Align the corresponding marks made on the intake and on the inside distributor housing with the rotor button. The distributor will turn just a bit when it slides down into the hole. It is a good idea to turn the rotor button back, counter clockwise, just a bit from the marks so when it slips in and turns it seats just right. Plug the distributor in and reattach the vacuum line.

19

Rotate the engine until the top dead center mark on the balancer aligns to the timing pointer on the timing cover. Push the rocker arms down on the number one cylinder, they should be even if the engine is on the compression stroke and the rotor button should be pointing at the spark plug wire in the cap that corresponds to cylinder one. If not rotate the engine 180 degree back to the same timing mark. With the cylinder on the number one compression stroke tighten both rocker lock down nuts until the push rod can not be freely rotated under the rocker, then tighten the nut another 3/8-inch turn.

20

Adjust the valves on the next cylinder, which is cylinder eight, by rotating the engine until the rockers on cylinder eight are even on top and adjust them. Next rotate the engine so cylinder four has the rockers even and adjust them. Continue this process using the Chevy small-block firing order, in a clockwise direction, until all 16 valves are adjusted.

21

Replace the valve covers on both cylinder banks, ill the radiator and start the engine.

If the transmission is not working as it should in your Dodge Intrepid, then you might be very worried. People have the misconception that when you have issues with a transmission it will be very costly to fix. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be performed even by someone with little mechanical ability. Set aside about two hours to troubleshoot your Dodge Intrepid transmission.

Instructions

1

Look at the ground where you regularly park your Dodge. If you have a puddle of red transmission fluid under your Intrepid, then you have a transmission leak. This is most likely the reason why your transmission is acting up.

2

Lift up the hood on your Dodge and pull out the transmission dipstick. The transmission dipstick is located on the drivers side of the engine. You will see that the dipstick is identified with the word "transmission" on the top of it.

3

Start the engine of your Dodge. Pull out the dipstick and wipe if off with the paper towel. Put the dipstick back in and take it right back out. You will see two different level lines on the dipstick. One will read "full hot" and the other "full cold." Make sure that the fluid level is correct for cold since you have not driven or warmed up the transmission yet. If you have low fluid, then this is the reason for your transmission malfunction.

4

Follow the dipstick tube down to the transmission. Locate any wires connected to the transmission. If you have any broken or disconnected connections, this could be why your Dodge Intrepid transmission is failing.

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

1

Take out the fuel filler cap.

2

Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

3

Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

4

Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

5

Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

6

Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

7

Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

8

Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

9

Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

10

Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

11

Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

12

Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

13

Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

14

Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

15

Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

16

Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

Spur gears, the most common type of gear, are often used because they are the simplest to design and manufacture, and are the most efficient, as well. Spur gears have straight teeth that are situated parallel to the gear axis. They are most commonly used in power tools and robotics applications. Although they are common and efficient, spur gears have disadvantages as well.

Noise

Spur gears are very noisy when used at some speeds because the entire face engages at once. Thus, theyre known as slow-speed gears. Helical gears, in comparison, operate almost silently.

Strength

Spur gears are not as strong as some other gears. They cannot handle as much of a load because the teeth are small and situated parallel to the gear axis, rather than being large and situated diagonally as the teeth on a helical gear are.

Non-Parallel Shafts

Spur gears can only be used to transfer power between parallel shafts. They cannot transfer power between non-parallel shafts.

The FE, or Ford-Edsel, family of Ford engines included some of Fords biggest powerhouses, including the 360, 390, 427, and 428 big blocks. Identifying the cylinder heads on these engines requires a combination of identification techniques, beginning with locating the casting number.

Casting Numbers

FE cylinder head casting numbers are stamped directly on the top of the head itself. On the passenger side, they are between cylinders two and three- driver side numbers are between cylinders six and seven. Casting number C9XX was manufactured in 1969. "C" represents the 1960s ("D" for the 1970s, and so on), "9" is the decade year followed by vehicle model and engineering codes. A Ford parts department may be able to further help you determine each characters meaning.

Differences

The heads of the 428 Cobra Jet, the 390 High-Performance, the 390 GT and the 427 need further identification differentiation. The Cobra Jet has larger ports than both 390s and has either vertical or diagonal exhaust manifold bolts. The 390 High-Performance head has larger ports than the 390 GT. The 427 head can have low, medium or high riser lengths.

Other Considerations

Most FE heads are interchangeable. Modifications are done for performance reasons, and performance specifications differentiate most FE-series heads. As no one identification method positively identifies one from another, its generally necessary to measure ports, risers and valve sizes for cross-erence.

The Toyota Prius is a hybrid electric-gas, mid-sized vehicle. One of the standard features of the car is a keyless entry system and alarm transmitter that is built into the vehicles key. At times, you will need to replace the battery inside the Prius key.

Instructions

1

Push the latch on the top of the key to the left and pull the medal door key out of the plastic frame.

2

Turn the key over and press the key latch all the way down.

3

Push the back of the key in the opposite direction with your thumb.

4

Pull the top of the key all the way off.

5

Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding the battery in place and remove the battery.

6

Insert a new CR2032 battery in the battery holder and replace the Phillips screws.

7

Snap the top of the key back into place

Pushrods are the longest and most visible pieces in a chain of mechanical components that connect a cam shaft inside a Harley-Davidson Evolution engine, with the rockers that open and close the exhaust and intake valves in a Harley cylinder head. The "lift" of these valves determines how much air and exhaust enters and leaves the cylinders. Within this chain of components, pushrods or rockers may be adjusted. It is easier to adjust pushrods than it is to pull apart the top of the engine. Harleys are shipped with non-adjustable pushrods, but the motor company does sell a set of quick install adjustable pushrods that bolt in as follows.

Instructions

1

Shift the motorcycle into top gear. Raise the bike on a motorcycle jack until the rear wheel is completely off the ground.

2

Cut the stock pushrods in half with a bolt cutter and pull them off the engine.

3

Remove both spark plugs with a spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Shine a flashlight into the front spark plug well and look into it.

4

Slowly turn the rear wheel by hand until the front piston is at the top of its stroke.

5

Replace the O-rings, the lower pushrod covers and the spring cover keeper with new components supplied in the kit by hand using a flathead screwdriver when needed.

6

Loosen the locknut on all of the pushrods with an open end wrench and adjust them to their shortest length.

7

Install the pushrods with pushrod covers by hand, ensuring that the adjuster end of the pushrod is down and the ball end of the adjuster is in the tappet socket. Adjust the pushrods for your motorcycle according to the instructions in the kit.

8

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the sparkplugs with a sparkplug socket and socket wrench.

Makita produces a variety of hand and power tools for commercial and personal use that make completing projects easier and quicker. The Makita impact gun is a cordless impact drill that produces significantly more power than a standard cordless drill designed to drill hard surfaces and remove stubborn fasteners.

Safety

Makita impact guns are powerful tools. Use them with caution. Wear protective gear when using any drill, to prevent debris from harming your eyes. Gloves can protect your hands if they slip off the drill, striking a sharp object, or in case something falls onto your hands. Keep the Makita cordless impact drill away from liquid substances, including water, as they could cause an electrical shock and damage the product.

Size

Makita produces its impact drills in varying sizes according to the battery strength. The amount of battery strength directly affects the power output of the drill. Smaller models work well for most household uses, and large models stand up to commercial use. Using an underpowered drill can result in damage to the drill if the motor overheats. Only use the battery charger designed for the size battery of your drill, and remove fully charged batteries promptly from the charger to prevent damage.

Drilling

When using your Makita impact drill to penetrate into hard surfaces, maintain a firm grip with both hands. Apply pressure straight into the bit, but do not bind the bit. If you do bind it, you can be injured from the bit breaking apart. Choose the drills setting according to the surface you are drilling into. Use a lubricant if the drill bit repeatedly overheats. Harder surfaces require faster rpm modes. Start with the soft hammer mode when utilizing your impact drill to install screws or lag bolts into a material, adjusting the power level as needed.

Removing Items

Makita impact drills feature power to remove stubborn nuts, bolts, screw and fasteners caused by over-tightening or corrosion. Spray any rusted or corroded metal fasteners and nuts with a lubricant or penetrating agent to aid in the removal. Keep the impact drill on a low power level initially so you dont break the bolt or fastener. Increase the power as necessary. Hold the drill firmly when removing stuck items, and never apply leverage to the drill when trying to break loose an item. Leverage can damage the drill.

Hydraulic cylinders are found in automobiles, boats and other large equipment. Hydraulic oil or another pressurized fluid powers the cylinder and forces a piston located inside a barrel to move back and forth. The inner diameter of the barrel, where the piston moves, is known as the bore, and is a critical measure for the operation of the hydraulic cylinder. The lifting force of a cylinder is based on the size of the bore diameter multiplied by the hydraulic pressure. Measure the bore of a hydraulic cylinder to help calculate generated force.

Instructions

1

Disassemble the cylinder so that the bore is accessible. The exact procedure depends on the type of hydraulic cylinder. Clean any fluid from inside.

2

Twist the ratchet on the end of the telescopic bore gauge until the anvil and head are slightly larger than the opening in the bore.

3

Place the opened anvil and head against the bores opening at a gentle angle. Slowly straighten the bore gauge until the base of the instrument stands vertical and the head and anvil touch opposite sides of the bore wall. Rock the gauge gently in the bore to lock the anvil in place.

4

Remove the telescopic bore gauge from the bore. Measure the distance between the head and anvil with a micrometer or caliper to determine the diameter of the bore.

Oldsmobile is a brand of car manufactured by General Motors. The Oldsmobile models that were in production in 1989 include the 88, 98, Cutlass Supreme and Toronado. All of these vehicles use a harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, to keep the crankshaft stable as it rotates. The crankshaft balancer is a weighted disc mounted on the end of the crankshaft. The procedure for replacing the harmonic balancer in a 1989 Oldsmobile is generally the same for all models, except for the components you need to remove to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine during the crankshaft balancer installation. Turn the drive belt tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the drive belt. Detach the drive belt from the crankshaft pulley.

2

Remove any additional components needed to access the crankshaft. This can include the shroud for the cooling fan, the cooling fan and the radiator, depending on the specific Oldsmobile model.

3

Disconnect the attaching bolt for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench. Attach a puller to the crankshaft damper, and pull the damper from the crankshaft. Release the puller from the damper.

4

Mount the new crankshaft damper to the crankshaft, and fasten the mounting bolt for the damper with a socket wrench.

5

Install the components you removed in step two to access the crankshaft. Mount the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, and turn the belt tensioner clockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

There are two oxygen or O2 sensors in the exhaust system on the 1995 Chevy Astro van. The process of changing the O2 sensors is the same whether it is the upstream or downstream sensors that you need to change, except that the location is different. These O2 sensors are critical to the proper operation of the fuel system and performance of the engine in your van. If you have a bad sensor, change it right away to correct drivability issues, hard stats and poor fuel mileage.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Chevy Astro with a jack and support it under the frame rails with a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the van is securely on the stands.

2

Locate the O2 sensors from under the van. The upstream sensor threads into the exhaust pipe coming down from the engine manifold. It is on the inside edge of the pipe, closest to the engine block. The downstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust system just forward of the catalytic converter.

3

Determine which sensor you need to change, and position yourself below it. Locate the wiring harness coming out of the back of the top of the sensor and follow it up to the connector where the sensors harness and the vans wiring harness join. Disconnect the two halves of the connector by releasing the locking tab and pulling them apart.

4

Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe using an O2 sensor socket and ratchet to turn the sensor counterclockwise until it is free from the threads. Discard the old sensor and install the new one into the threaded hole on the exhaust pipe using your hands to get it starter. This will help prevent cross threading.

5

Tighten the O2 sensor with your O2 sensor socket and ratchet. Run the wiring harness connector from the new sensor up to the connector on the vans wiring harness. Push the two halves of the connectors together until the locking tab engages. If you are replacing both sensors, move to the other sensor and repeat the process.

6

Raise the front of your Astro off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the stands from under the van then lower the jack, setting the van back on the ground. Test run the engine to verify the sensors are functioning properly.

You can reset the airbag or SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) computer on your 1996 Dodge Caravan right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The On-Board Diagnostics computer stores trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The Caravan alerts you to an airbag malfunction by illuminating the SRS light on the instrument panel. If you see this light, stop the vehicle and have it towed to your mechanic.



Once the airbag has been examined and replaced, you can reset the computer using a diagnostic reset tool. This is a small hand-held device sold at all auto parts retailers.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open the cover by turning the knob and pulling down.

2

Find the open port in the fuse panel that is the same size and shape as the diagnostic reset tool connector end. Plug this tool into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position but dont start the engine. Wait for the light to stop blinking on the reset tool. Once it has stopped flashing, the airbag computer will be reset.

Optima is a manufacturer of sealed, lead acid batteries used in motor vehicles. The batteries manufactured by Optima are created using the U.S. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) hazard communication standard.

Safety

When used in the correct manner, as described by Optima, the batteries produced by the company are safe for use. When handling or performing maintenance on a battery, Optima recommends the use of protective clothing including eye protectors, face and hand protection.

Lead

Under extreme heat, such as fire, the protective case surrounding Optima batteries can break and leak toxic chemicals including lead. Exposure to lead can be a health hazard resulting in loss of appetite, diarrhea and constipation with stomach cramps.

General

Optima publishes general safety guidance for its products, including installing and performing repairs on a battery in a ventilated area to avoid exposure to fumes. Motor vehicle batteries manufactured by Optima contain sulfuric acid that can cause breathing problems and severe burns.

The Isuzu Rodeo is a pickup truck manufactured from 1988 to 2002. A common engine for the 2001 model is a four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft (See Reference 1) (See Reference 2) . This engine requires a timing belt to keep the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The most important part of replacing the timing belt is ensuring that you keep the crankshaft and camshaft in the correct position during the procedure.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont inadvertently start the engine.

2

Turn the drive belt adjuster clockwise with a box-end wrench to relieve the tension on the the drive belt. Remove the drive belt.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the chassis wiring harness in the left rear quadrant of the engine compartment.

4

Disconnect the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley.

5

Remove the retaining nut that attaches the engine harness cover to the front of the engine, and detach the cover.

6

Remove the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft with the timing marks on the crankshaft housing.

7

Disconnect the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner from the engine. Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft.

Installation

8

Connect the timing belt tensioner and tighten the adjusting bolt by hand. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks if necessary.

9

Place a "J-43037" tool between the intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket of the camshaft to hold the camshaft in place while you install the timing belt.

10

Install the new timing belt while keeping the tension side of the belt taut. Turn the adjusting lever on the timing belt tensioner clockwise until the pointer on the tensioner moves to the center of the "V" notch on the tensioner housing.

11

Tighten the adjuster bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

12

Replace the front cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 53 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the engine harness. Connect the crankshaft pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs.

13

Install the drive belt and turn the drive belt adjuster counterclockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Volkswagen uses a camshaft position sensor on the 2002 Passat sedan to relay information about the camshaft position and engine speed to the electronic control module to determine ignition timing and fuel injection synchronization. Located on the cylinder head behind the upper timing belt cover on the 1.8-liter engine, the sensor is accessible for removal and replacement. Replace the sensor using basic hand tools.

Instructions

1

Locate the cam position sensor electrical connector on the timing belt cover just to the left of center of the engine. Unlock the connector retaining tab and pull the connector off the sensor.

2

Unlock the upper timing belt cover retainer clip at the top-right corner of the cover. Pull the top of the cover away from the engine slightly and disengage the upper cover from the tab in the lower cover. Lift the upper cover straight up and out of the engine compartment.

3

Remove the two camshaft sensor retaining bolts using a ratchet and socket. Pull the old sensor off the engine.

4

Make certain the tab on the faceplate on the end of the camshaft is properly indexed in its detent. Install the new sensor on the engine. Install the two sensor retaining bolts and torque them to 88 inch-pounds using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket.

5

Position the upper timing belt cover on the engine. Engage the tab in the lower timing belt cover with the slot in the upper timing belt cover. Snap the upper cover into place. Install the camshaft sensor electrical connector and ensure the retainer locks in place.

The Ford Probe was a sport coupe manufactured from 1989 to 1997, with the second generation of this series beginning in 1993. The GT trim level was a sportier version of the base model, and included a six-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine requires a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshafts and crankshafts. The timing belt in a 1993 Ford Probe requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts on the right engine mount. Disconnect the engine mount and detach the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket must align with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must align with the timing marks on the cylinder head.

3

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place to avoid stripping the threads on the mounting bolts when you remove them. Disconnect the lower mounting bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench first, then disconnect the upper mounting bolt. Remove the mounting bolts on the number 1 idler pulley and remove the pulley. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Insert a tool handle of appropriate size into one of the camshaft sprocket holes to hold it in place. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

5

Shift your transmission into fourth gear and set the parking brake if your vehicle has manual transmission. Disconnect the dust cover for the flywheel with a socket wrench, and install a locking tool onto the flywheel if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket.

6

Align the dowel on the right camshaft with the slot on the right camshaft sprocket Installed the sprocket onto the camshaft and hold the sprocket in place. Fasten the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket and tighten it to between 35 and 48 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Repeat this step to install the left camshaft sprocket.

7

Align the key way on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the oil pump and install the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket to between 116 and 122 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place with a vertical press and push the adjuster rod into its hole to align the hole on the piston with the second hole on the case of the timing belt tensioner. Place a metal pin with a diameter of 0.063 in. into the second hole on the timing belt case to hold the piston in place.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, if necessary. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the sprocket back by one tooth.

10

Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, number two idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner pulley and right camshaft sprocket in that order. Apply pressure to the timing belt to hold it in place, and install the number one idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolt for the pulley to between 28 and 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the timing belt tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to between 14 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the pin from the timing belt case. Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to align the timing marks again.

12

Adjust the timing belt tensioner so that the deflection of the timing belt between the crankshaft and timing belt tensioner is 0.24 to 0.31 inches.

13

Connect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and install the right engine mount. Tighten the nuts for the engine mount to between 55 and 77 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the through bolt to between 63 in 86 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jacks supporting the engine, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The EGR sensor is an automotive engine component designed to work with an exhaust gas recirculation system. Exhaust gas recirculation systems are part of many newer makes of automobiles, which must comply to more stringent environmental standards. The EGR sensor detects temperature and oxygen levels and determines whether the system is functioning properly.

Benefits

An EGR system offers two primary benefits to an automobile engine. The primary benefit is a reduced level of environmentally damaging emissions. The second benefit is a more efficient use of fuel, leading to better energy efficiency and more thorough combustion.

How EGR Systems Improve Engine Systems

An automotive engine without an EGR system releases gaseous emissions with hydrocarbon waste that has not been fully consumed by the combustion process. An EGR system recycles this partially combusted waste gas back into the combustion system to be used a second time for an overall cleaner emission.

EGR Sensor Warning

An EGR sensor fault warning on the vehicles indicator panel can indicate either that the sensor itself is damaged or that the exhaust gas recirculation system is not functioning within factory designated parameters. The best way to tell the difference between the two potential problems is to take the vehicle in for maintenance and have the sensor replaced.

The Toyota 4Runner is an SUV used for off-roading or hauling materials. If your 1997 Toyota 4Runner will not start, there are a couple of easy things that you can do realtively quickly. The battery and fluid levels are the first things to check to get the Toyota 4Runner started again.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to your 4Runner and look over the battery for any corrosion.

2

Clean the corroded battery terminals with a rag and then tighten them to the battery.

3

Check the positive and negative leads on the terminals to make sure the battery is installed properly.

4

Check the lights in your 4Runner to make sure that you didnt leave any on. If you left your lights on, the battery may just need to charge.

5

Use a separate car and jump the battery with jumper cables. Connect the positive lead of the jumper cable to the positive lead on your car battery. Connect the negative lead of the jumper cable to the negative lead on your car battery. Repeat the process on another car. Start the car and then start your car.

6

Check the fluid levels in your car. Low fluid can cause the engine to lock up and will inhibit the car from starting.

7

Check the fuel level to make sure you have enough gas.

Wheel alignment affects the steering pattern of your vehicle and is a major contributor to tire wear. Improperly aligned tires may pull to the left or right when driving, which is a dangerous safety hazard. The three elements of alignment to consider are caster, camber and toe. These terms er to the placement of the wheels, whether they be set forward or backward, tilted in or out or pointed to the inside or outside.

Laser Wheel Alignment Tool

Laser wheel alignment tools make taking toe measurements quick and easy. Wheels with a toe-in setting face inside, while toe-out wheels point to the outside when the tires are viewed head on. Laser tools replace the old method of measuring, which usually involved painting a line around the tire and measuring by hand. With a wheel alignment tool, youll only need a steel bar and bungee cord to set the toe on a vehicle with an "in" or "out" toe setting. While these tools make setting the toe easy, the can be expensive and may not be practical for home workshops.

Caster/Camber Gauges

Caster and camber are wheel alignment elements that can be measured with caster/camber gauges. Caster ers to the position of the wheels top and bottom ball joints in relation to the spinning axis, the cars axle. When viewed from the side, the ball joints may be positioned either in front of or behind the axle, rather than sharing an equal distribution for proper alignment. Camber can be viewed by looking at the tires head on; the top of the tire may be tilted in or out, which can cause uneven wear on your tires. Caster/camber gauges are attached to wheel hubs and use a level to determine the amount of positive or negative caster or camber associated with each wheel. You turn the wheel to one direction, take a reading, then turn in the other direction, take another reading and calculate the difference. Manual gauges are one option, but digital gauges take the guesswork out of caster and camber measurements.

Camber Kits

Most vehicles are built with the ability to adjust toe and caster in the suspension set-ups, but, according to Sport Compact Only, "less than half of vehicles manufactured have camber adjustability." Those vehicles that do have this ability, usually only allow for a small range of correction. Camber kits widen the range of camber adjustability so you can correct excessive camber problems beyond factory specifications. They are almost always necessary if you lower your vehicle, which can produce excess negative camber. The shim and washer camber kit design is fairly easy to install; it fits snugly against the hub and acts like a shim to hold the tire out. Some camber kits are more difficult to install, however, and may require the complete removal or replacement of your vehicles ball joints.

When the oil pressure starts to drop in a diesel engine, problems set in. First, the oil is not fully spread across the engine, which contributes to further problems. Shaft bearings start to wear as a result, including the camshaft. Piston rings start to wear, leading to excessive oil burning. Overall, a snowball effect takes place, leading to eventual engine destruction. When the oil pressure goes low, all additives claim to "fix" the problem instantly. Correctly fixing the problem, however, involves extensive diagnosis, including analyzing the oil pump closely.

False Claims

Low oil pressure in a diesel engine indicates something is seriously wrong. Trying to use additives to correct low oil pressure is like putting a band aid on a broken leg. Some additive makers have been known to make false claims of correcting engine problems. For example, the Federal Trade Commission in 2001 brought charges against Zmax oil additive for deceptive advertising.

True Causes

The true causes of low oil pressure in a diesel engine are serious. First, check the oil level and type of oil you are using. The oil should be rated for diesel engines, and the proper viscosity must be used. The service department of the dealership that sells your make and model of vehicle can help you choose the right oil. If you are using the right oil, the next step is to suspect a faulty oil pump. Furthermore, Machinery Lubrication Magazine states that diesel fuel dilution causes low pressure at startup. A qualified diesel technician can assist you in diagnosing and correcting the problem.

Simple Cures

If the oil pressure is a little low, try some simple fixes. Using a thicker viscosity of oil might help. For example, suppose the manufacturer calls for using 5W-20 to 20W-30 for the oil weight. If you use 20W-30, this is slightly thicker. You are still staying within the recommended guidelines, but are using oil at the upper range of the recommended thickness scale. If you suspect fuel dilution, drain and change the oil and oil filter. This will get rid of the thinned out oil. You oil pump may be sensitive to changes like this, and perhaps the problem will self correct.

Steps To Take

Try the easy solutions first. If the oil pressure is just starting to go low, you may have to change the oil more often to overcome fuel dilution. Try to start your engine less frequently, as the experts state this leads to fuel dilution, particularly in cold weather. If the simple solutions do not resolve the problem, then professional expertise is needed to diagnose the root cause of the problem. Additives claim to correct problems, but these claims should be looked upon with skepticism.

The Mazda B Series is a line of pickup trucks that Mazda Motor Corporation has manufactured since 1961. The number in the model name indicates the displacement of the engine, so the B2200 has a 2.2-liter engine. This engine has a single overhead camshaft, and uses a timing belt to coordinate the opening and closing of the cylinder valves. The replacement of the timing belt in a 1989 Mazda B2200 is part of its routine maintenance schedule.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and detach the accessory drive belts. Disconnect the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the A mark on the camshaft pulley with the timing mark on the camshaft housing. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

3

Detach the spring for the timing belt tensioner with a pair of brake pliers. Disconnect the mounting bolt from the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench and remove the tensioner. Disconnect the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Place a T-wrench onto one of the housing bolts for the camshaft pulley. Place another T-wrench on the mounting bolt for the pulley and disconnect the mounting bolt. Remove the camshaft pulley from the camshaft.

5

Install the new timing belt and align the timing marks on the camshaft pulley if necessary. Ensure that the timing belt engages the teeth on the sprockets of the camshaft, crankshaft and belt tensioner.

6

Install the mounting bolt for the belt tensioner and tighten it by hand. Install the tensioner spring, and loosen the lock bolt for the belt tensioner with a socket wrench.

7

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two turns and align the timing marks. Tighten the locking bolt on the timing belt to between 28 and 38 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Turn the timing belt tensioner to adjust the tension on the timing belt. The timing belt should deflect by about 12mm when you apply a force of 22 lbs. to the longest span of the timing belt.

8

Replace the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and attach the accessory drive belts. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The Mazda RX-8 is a highly advanced vehicle that can cost a lot of money to maintain. Performing tune-ups and oil changes yourself can be very cost-effective and it will also teach you the ins and outs of the vehicle in case anything needs to be repaired. Tuning your engine takes time and patience, but the benefits far outweigh the negatives.

Instructions

Engine TuneUp Preparation

1

Place your gear selector in the Park (P) or Neutral (N) position.

2

Turn off all electrical accessories, such as the air conditioner and radio.

3

Press the gas to increase speed to 2,500 to 3,500 rpm and wait until the cooling fans turn on. The vehicle will be in park or neutral, so it will not move during this step.

4

Release the accelerator when the cooling fans turn on. Wait until the cooling fans stop running before continuing work.

5

Connect a diagnostic device (WDS) to the DLC-2. The DLC-2 is located underneath the steering column and to the left of the steering wheel near the pedals. It will look like a rectangular bay that has nothing plugged into it.

6

Check that the idling speed of the vehicle is at 760 to 860 rpm for an automatic transmission or 750 to 850 rpm for a manual transmission. The code on the diagnostic device that designates rpm should read "RPM PID."

Inspect the Ignition Timing

7

Connect the timing light to the front rotor housing. The front rotor housing is on the front of the engine facing toward the front bumper.

8

Turn on the "test mode" on the timing light. In order to enter the timing light into test mode, you must use the "Test Simulation" function.

9

Confirm the positions of the "Eccentric Shaft Plates". On the front of the motor, you should see that the front cover of the rotor housing has a white mark on it. The engine itself also has a white mark. The white marks should be lined up correctly.

10

Confirm the ignition is -5 degrees. Using the diagnostic device, you should find this under the "SPARK-L" section.

11

Turn the test mode off.

Inspect the Idling Speed

12

Turn on the "test mode" on the timing light. In order to enter the timing light into test mode, you must use the "Test Simulation" function.

13

Verify engine speed, using the RPM DATA function on the diagnostic device. Because you should have all loads turned off --- headlights, air conditioner, heat, defrosters --- turned off, the idling speed should be 760 to 860 rpm for an automatic transmission or 750 to 850 for a manual transmission.

14

Turn the "Test Mode" off.

Check That the Idle Mixture Is Within Regulation

15

Complete steps 1, 2, and 3.

16

Place the exhaust gas analyzer stick into the tailpipe.

17

Verify that the emissions level is up to EPA standards. The NOx level should be 0.07. tTe NMOG level should be 0.055, the CO level should be 2.1. The PM level should be 0.01, and the HCHO level should be 0.011.

There are times when your vehicles shock absorbers freeze, thereby impairing the proper functioning of your suspension system. Releasing the frozen shock absorbers remains a matter of getting in the right position to apply enough torque after lubricating the absorbers with penetrating oil. Applying new absorbers to the suspension system will have you up and running in no time. It is imperative to release the frozen absorbers because your suspension system depends on the absorbers to control the motion of the vehicle. Shock absorbers prevent your vehicle from bouncing on the flexing spring. The absorbers transfer energy created by the spring to a piston, which releases the heat.

Instructions

1

Position the jack by using the jacking points of the vehicle, allowing the jack to support the weight of the car. Then lift slightly without lifting the wheels from the ground. Loosen wheel nuts with a wheel brace and remove the wheels. Raise the car slowly until the tires are just above ground.

2

Remove the interior covering in the trunk to access the upper shock mounting nuts. If needed, use the pliers and wrench to remove hardware to access the lower shock mounting nuts.

3

Spray the upper and lower shock mounting nuts and absorbers with the penetrating oil and allow the oil to soak into the parts before attempting to remove. Wait at least 10 minutes.

4

Dislodge the lower and upper mounting nuts and washers with the wrench and pliers, and remove the old shock absorber.

5

Mount the lower shock mounting nuts and new shock absorber. Tighten the lower mounting bolts to secure torque with the wrench.

6

Install upper grommets and upper mounting nuts. Make sure all grommets are installed in the proper place. Reinstall the wheels. Lower the vehicle and jounce the vehicle four times to settle the grommets.

Replacing the mass air flow sensor on your 2000 Buick 3.8-liter engine is relatively straightforward. The MAF sensor sits on top of the throttle body just above the air intake. The MAF sensor is a flat, plastic piece held in place with several screws and has an electrical connector attached to its left side. Replacement OE MAF sensors are available through the dealer and aftermarket replacements are available from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Buick and locate the throttle body on the front of the engine. The air intake hose attaches to the front of the throttle body, making it easy to identify.

2

Disconnect the electrical connector from the end of the sensor by lifting the locking tab on the connector, then pulling it straight off the sensor. Locate the two screws on the top of the sensor--they are at opposite corners--and remove them with a Torx screwdriver.

3

Lift the MAF sensor straight up and away from the throttle body. Discard it and position a new MAF sensor on the throttle body, aligning the screw holes in the sensor with the threaded holes on the throttle body.

4

Install the two Torx-head retaining screws through the MAF sensor and into the throttle body. Tighten them with a Torx screwdriver, then push the electrical connector onto the end of the new sensor, making sure the locking tab snaps in place.

Single stage urethane enamel is a type of automotive paint that is commonly used because it does not require a clear coat, thus reducing costs and the time needed to paint the car. While this is one of the most common and durable types of paint available, it is still susceptible to damage, and you may need to repair the paint on your car. There are many products available that make a small paint repair simple.

Instructions

1

Repair any dents and remove any rust. Wash the area to be repaired with dish soap and water. If the damage is fairly extensive, you may want to sand the area, as well. Soak some 600 grit sandpaper in cold water for 10 minutes, then sand gently. It is easy to sand off urethane enamel. Wipe away dust afterward.

2

Mask off the area by taping newspaper pieces around it with masking tape or automotive masking tape. This prevents excess paint from getting onto undamaged areas of your car. If the damage is extensive and goes to bare metal, spray the area with at least three coats of primer and sand again. Wait for 30 minutes before continuing the repair.

3

Paint the area with automotive repair paint. There are several types: pens, bottles and spray cans. Pens and bottles are for very small repairs and cans are for larger repairs. If you are using a spray can, apply the paint in several light coats, waiting for the paint to dry completely between coats. Try to blend the edges of the paint into the old paint.

4

Apply a clear coat over the repaired paint. This is necessary for a large repair. Use several layers of clear coat. Once you have applied the last coat, wait 24 hours, then apply rubbing compound.

5

Remove the masking tape and newspaper.

Chevrolet is the manufacturer of the Camaro, a two-door sports car. Introduced in 1967, the Camaro was one of Chevys major sellers until the company shut down production of the Camaro in 2002, which was declining in popularity. In 2010, the Camaro was re-introduced. If you are the owner of a Chevy Camaro and you need to have a new car key cut for your Camaro youll need to obtain certain information.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your Camaro. This number is located on your purchase paperwork, your registration and your insurance card. The VIN will allow Chevrolet to acquire your key code, which tells the key maker exactly how to cut your new key to fit in your vehicle.

2

Visit your local Chevy dealerships service and/or parts department. Chevrolets official website allows you to input your zip code to locate the Chevy dealership nearest you.

3

Give the service/parts department at Chevy your VIN, your Camaros registration and your photo identification. This information is needed to prove ownership of the vehicle, as Chevy will not cut keys, even with the VIN, without proof of ownership as a theft deterrent. Wait while your key is cut, which only takes a few minutes, and pay for your new keys.

The front spindle nut on a 1995 Honda Accord is a single-use nut. This nut contains an outer flange that must be staked into a groove on the end of the axle shaft. The staking procedure prevents the nut from loosening when the vehicle is driven, but necessitates the replacement of the nut when its removed. In order to remove the 36 mm axle nut, the staked portion of the nut must be pounded out of the axle shaft to allow the nut to spin freely.

Instructions

Removal

1

Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut socket and a t-handle breaker bar.

2

Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and set it down on jack stands

3

Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Locate the axle nut in the center of the rotor, on the end of the axle shaft. Align a steel punch with the staked-in portion of the axle nut, then use a hammer to drive the punch into the staked-in portion to undo the staking.

4

Place a 36 mm socket on the end of a t-handle breaker bar and place the socket over the axle nut. Ask an assistant to hold a large pry in-between the wheel studs; this holds the hub still so the axle and transmission arent damaged.

5

Loosen and remove the axle nut, then discard it.

Installation

6

Install a new axle nut onto the axle shaft, and have an assistant hold the pry bar between the wheel studs again.

7

Tighten the nut and torque it to 181 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Align a steel punch with the channel on the axle shaft, then strike the punch with a hammer to stake the new nut into place.

9

Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle back to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Catalytic converters are a vital part of any automotive emission system. These devices use heat to chemically react (catalyze) with harmful emissions like carbon monoxide, nitric oxides and unburnt hydrocarbons and convert them to more inert forms. Theyve been required on all cars sold in the united states since 1975, and have helped to change the landscape of the automotive industry worldwide.

History

Catalytic converters were first developed in the 1950s by Eugene Houdry, a French-American engineer. They first entered production for use on automobiles in 1973, and were legislated as mandatory in 1975. Other industries soon jumped on the green wagon, applying converters to practically anything with an engine, including forklifts, generators and battleships.

Function

All catalytic converters function on essentially the same principal. The converter housing contains a grid-like substrate that is designed to reach extremely high heat, finishing the combustion process begun by the engine and vaporizing contaminants. Many converters store excess oxygen from the catalytic process, using it to speed up the reaction under high-stress conditions. The inside of some converters can reach over 1,000 degrees under normal operation, and significantly more under meltdown conditions.

Types

Older converters used a lead pellet design to capture heat, forcing the exhaust to flow through and around the metal balls, which were trapped in a containing matrix. More modern converters use honeycomb-shaped matrices of platinum-palladium alloy, coated with a wash-coat of silica and alumina, which helps increase efficiency. The newest converters use a ceramic honeycomb which lasts longer, is more efficient and contains little or no precious and expensive platinum alloy.

Converter Drawbacks

Older catalytic converters were very heavy and restrictive, costing precious horsepower in the deficit days of the 70s and reducing fuel mileage by as much as 10 percent. The newest high-flow honeycomb designs, however, flow significantly better than lead-pellet types. Converters often produce harmful emissions of their own: hydrogen sulfide and ammonia are the most common, but some also produce the organic toxin dioxin.

Cash for Cats

Catalytic converter theft is rampant in some areas, since older units contain great quantities of the aforementioned precious metals. A typical catalytic converter contains over $200 worth of platinum, palladium and rhodium. But dont break out the reciprocating saw and retirement plan just yet; according to the EPA, the cost to extract these precious metals from used converters makes recycling them for the platinum only slightly more economical than simply ining more.

Having a roof rack on your vehicle allows you to haul such things as outdoor sports gear, camping equipment, or luggage. By placing these things on your roof rack, it leaves more interior space for passengers or more gear. Knowing the specifications of your FJ Cruiser roof rack, you will be able to understand what the material you are working with, the weight capacity, the dimensions and special features that the rack offers.

Material

The undercoat paint of the roof rack is an epoxy powder to prevent rust. The outer paint helps prevent UV rays and accumulation of road dirt and debris. The support beams are steel or aluminum, depending on the manufacturer. The accessory bolts are also made of steel or aluminum.

Weight Capacity

The weight capacity of roof racks may vary depending on the brand and manufacturer you choose, the normal weight capacity range is 75 to 300 lbs. while driving and up to 600 lbs. of static load. Static load capacities are usually intended for roof top tents and occupants.

Dimensions

The dimensions, like the other specifications vary slightly depending on manufacturer. The average outer dimensions are 39 inches by 55 inches.

Features

One great feature of a FJ Cruiser roof rack is that you will not need to drill holes because you use the holes that are already available on the body of the vehicle. The beams of the roof rack for the FJ Cruiser are fully welded together to lower the chance of rattling. Front and rear supports are available for adding lights if you choose to add them. You can add a rear ladder to have better access to the roof if you like.

You can install a windshield on your 1973 Camaro with the help of a friend. Chevrolet introduced the Camaro to North America in 1967 as a competitor to Fords Mustang. The windshield keeps the roof from collapsing during an accident. It also helps keep you from being thrown from the vehicle. To do this job, you need some supplies that can be found at most auto parts stores. To save money, call your local auto wrecking yard to see whether it has any 1973 Camaro windshields in good condition.

Instructions

1

Fit a gasket around the new windshield. Make sure the slit on the gasket will be facing the outside of the Camaro once the windshield has been installed.

2

Run a line of sealant along the half channel all around the gasket.

3

Wipe some petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove, adding some extra to the top and bottom center of the gasket. Line a nylon cord around the outer groove starting at the bottom center of the gasket. Leave a piece of cord at the start and end point.

4

Put on your work gloves, and have your helper put on work gloves. Together, put the windshield into the windshield frame from outside the vehicle. Push the nylon cords into the Camaro so they are resting on the dashboard.

5

Pull one cord out and around the frame to pull the gaskets lip inside the car. At the same time, have your helper press the gasket onto the outside edge of the windshield frame.

6

Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.

Nissan introduced the first-ever compact pickup truck to the U.S. market in 1958, back when Nissans were still known as Datsuns. Nissan redesigned its pickup truck several times, giving it a complete makeover in 1986. While several trims of the vehicle were available, Nissan generally erred to its compact pickup simply as the Nissan Pickup until they discontinued production of it in 1997. The mid-sized Frontier replaced the Pickup in 1998, and Nissan introduced the full-size Titan pickup truck in 2004.

General Alignment Information

The Nissan offered its 1995 Pickup in a variety of two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims, but all two-wheel-drive trims had the same alignment specs, as did all four-wheel-drive trims. The caster, camber, toe and steering axis inclination (SAI) are all adjustable on the front end of all trims of the 1995 Nissan pickup. The caster is the angle of a vehicles steering pivot, as it is viewed from the side of the vehicle. The camber is the angle that the wheel tilts when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If it tilts out at the top, the camber is positive. If it tilts in at the top, it is negative. The toe is the measurement of a wheels angle in relation to the center line of the vehicle. On most vehicles, the front wheels are intended to point slightly toward each other. The SAI is the measurement of the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the front of the vehicle. All measurements are given in degrees.

Alignment Specs for the 1995 2WD Pickup

The caster angle on the front end of the 1995 two-wheel-drive Nissan Pickup should fall between +0.37 degree and +0.5 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The camber angle should fall between +0.42 degree and +0.50 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The toe-in should be between +0.8 degree and +0.25 degree. The SAI can range from +0.5 degree to +9.1 degrees. The alignment was not adjustable on the rear end of two-wheel-drive trims of the 1995 Nissan Pickup because it came with a fixed rear axle.

Alignment Specs for the 1995 4WD Nissan Pickup

The caster angle on the front end of the 1995 four-wheel-drive Nissan Pickup should fall between +0.50 degree and +1.3 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The camber angle should fall between +0.50 degree and +0.67 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The toe-in should be between +0.8 degree and +0.32 degree. The SAI can range from +0.5 degree to +8.1 degrees. As with the two-wheel-drive trims, the four-wheel-drive trims of the 1995 Nissan Pickup truck came with a fixed rear axle and the alignment was not adjustable on the rear end.

A high intensity discharge (HID) light bulb uses specific gases to produce the light seen in the bulb. Depending upon the gas used, the bulb may be very white or more blue on the spectrum. The bulb holds the gas within a vacuum of pressure inside the glass structure. HID bulbs vary in size and wattage, and are used for homes and cars alike.

Mercury Vapor

This high intensity vapor bulb contains mercury vapor inside the glass bulb. When electricity is sent to the bulb, the vapor is heated until it reaches a point where light is emitted. With mercury, the bulb may display as bluish, rather than pure white or yellow (like some popular incandescent bulbs do.) Mercury vapor bulbs are often used in homes as an energy-saving alternative to incandescents, although compact fluorescent light (CFLs) have begun to replace mercury vapor HIDs.

Metal Halide

Metal halide bulbs contain a mixture of metals, including thallium and sodium, along with mercury vapor. The metals are mixed to provide one of the better color-lecting bulbs (meaning it shows true colors, rather than emitting a hue) as described by Greenbuildingadvisor.com. Metal halide bulbs are favored as a replacement to other forms of HID bulbs because of this quality, and because they do not need excessive time to warm up and illuminate.

Pressurized Sodium

Pressurized sodium bulbs produce light by heating xenon gas until a combination of sodium and mercury cause sodium electrons to release and glow. High-pressure sodium (HPS) bulbs are the yellow glowing lights used along many major roads and throughout cities. With 10 times more lumens than an incandescent bulb, pressurized sodium bulbs are much brighter and can reach greater distances. Low-pressure sodium lights are used primarily by astronomers, since the intense orange light emitted can be filtered for space observation.

Modern vehicles, such as a 1997 Chevrolet, may have an anti-lock braking system (ABS) that prevents the wheels from locking in an emergency stop. The brake controller is also known as an Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). It monitors the rotational speed of each wheel and decreases the braking force to a wheel that is rotating significantly slower than the other wheels. The procedure for installing an EBCM is generally the same for most Chevrolets made between 1997 and 2000.

Instructions

1

Locate the EBCM. Its under the dashboard to the left of the steering column.

2

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the bracket for the EBCM to release it from its bracket.

3

Detach the electrical wiring harness from the EBCM, and remove the EBCM from the vehicle.

4

Plug the electrical wiring harness into the new EBCM. The harness will make an audible click when the connection is secure.

5

Install the new EBCM to its mounting bracket and secure it in place with the pressure tabs on the bracket.

6

Connect a bi-directional scan tool to terminal 9 of the data link connector (DLC). The DLC is in the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Read and correct any diagnostic trouble codes related to the braking system. Disconnect the bi-directional scan tool from the data link connector once youve read and addressed the codes.

Cars need to breathe. Too much or too little air will cause big problems for your engine. Make sure you know what a remanufactured air flow sensor is, how it helps your vehicle breathe and when you may need one.

Air Flow Sensor Basics

The air flow sensor (AFS) measures how much air enters the engine on vehicles that have an electronic fuel-injection system. The sensor allows the vehicle to let more or less air into the engine, which controls idle speed and acceleration.

Remanufactured Definition

A remanufactured part is different from a rebuilt part. When you rebuild a part, you only replace the broken pieces. When something is remanufactured, the entire piece, called the core, is taken apart. All pieces are then cleaned, repaired or replaced.

When Your AFS Fails

If your vehicle begins to stall, misfire or accelerate slowly or not at all, you might need to replace your AFS. In this case, a remanufactured sensor will cost less than a new one. Have your vehicle checked by a certified mechanic before buying or trying to replace it yourself.

The 1997 Mazda Protg has a single oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold. When the sensor fails, it will trigger the "Check Engine" light on your cars instrument panel, and your cars gas mileage will substantially decrease. If you want to avoid losing money at the gas pump, purchase a new sensor from an auto parts store and replace it at home.

Instructions

1

Raise the Protg with a jack and secure the car on jack stands. Locate the oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold is located beneath the intake at the base of the engine and is connected to the exhaust pipe. The oxygen sensor resembles a spark plug threaded into the manifold with an electrical wire connected to the top.

2

Pull the electrical connection apart to disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor. Remove the oxygen sensor from the manifold with a wrench.

3

Coat the new sensor threads with anti-seize compound. Insert the new sensor by hand. Tighten the sensor with the wrench. Push the electrical connection together until it locks.

4

Raise the car slightly with the jack. Remove the jack stands and lower the jack to return the car to the ground.

Vehicle manufacturers often recommend that their vehicles be taken back to the dealership for service and parts, in order to make certain all work is done properly and in accordance to any warranty specifications. Taking your Duramax diesel truck back to GM for service also improves its trade-in and re-sale value because you will have a documented service record proving the quality of care your vehicle has had during its time with you. There are several things you can do to maximize the service you get when you take your diesel truck to GM for service.

Qualifications

Before you take your Duramax diesel to the dealership for servicing, you need to talk to the dealerships service department and make certain that they have a certified Duramax diesel mechanic on staff to work on your trucks engine. Many dealerships and mechanic shops will hire uncertified technicians to do a lot of the minor repair jobs, but if you want the best quality work, you need to make sure everyone who will be touching your vehicle has been officially certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). Uncertified mechanics may not have had the proper training or developed the skills they need to perform proper repairs on your vehicle. Improperly done repairs can lead to a number of different headaches down the road.

If your nearest GM dealership does not have an ASE or certified diesel mechanic on staff and available to work on your truck, find a different dealership to take your vehicle to. Make sure to document your request for a certified mechanic in the paperwork when you drop your truck off.

Documentation

Document every communication between yourself and the dealership in writing. When you bring your vehicle in for service, provide the mechanics with a list of problems that you are experiencing to make sure that they are aware of all problems and none will be forgotten during the repair process. Make sure you get a list of every part that was adjusted or changed on your vehicle, as well as information about replacement warranties. Most replacement auto parts come with some form of warranty. If you believe the repair on your vehicle should fall under warranty, read your warranty and bring a copy of it with you when you take your vehicle in for servicing.

Educate Yourself

The best protection for any diesel truck owner who is bringing a vehicle in for repairs is a solid understanding of how the engine, in this case the Duramax, works and what needs to be repaired. Read your owner manual and any recall information to keep tabs on potential problems.

A strong understanding of the problem and solution will make you an educated consumer. Being well educated about your truck means you will be able to understand what your mechanic is telling you is wrong with the vehicle as well as the benefits and potential ramifications of repairs. Do not be afraid to ask your mechanic plenty of questions until you can thoroughly grasp the problem.

Being well educated about your truck will also help you avoid unnecessary work that the dealership may promote in order to increase their profit margin.