Repair 7

Rebuilding a Sea-Doo engine is one of those tasks that owners hope to avoid during the time they own the watercraft. However, as is sometimes the case with small engine maintenance and repair, an occasional rebuild may be necessary to keep maintenance costs low and to possibly avoid having to replace the entire Sea-Doo before the end of its life cycle.

Instructions

1

Remove all wires attached to the outer part of the Sea-Doos head. Use white masking tape and a permanent marker to mark each wire as you remove it from its original location. This makes it easier to replace the wires and put them back where they belong when you put the entire engine back together.

Remove the bolts with the appropriate size wrenches or ratchets. Bolt size depends on the Sea-Doo model you own and its engine size.

2

Pry the head open using a flat-head screwdriver. Caully remove the two halves from one another and inspect the interior of each. Examine the inside of each cylinder for signs of corrosion. A corroded cylinder indicates the need for a rebuild.

3

Remove the entire engine from the engine block and get it ready for rebuilding. Your best bet for doing this is to send it off to a machine shop to have the cylinders bored, the surface of the block prepared and the stroker kit balanced.

4

Set the crank and check for clearance. Begin by unbolting and pulling off the brackets on the top of the block so the tank can be set it in place. Ensure the oil gulley plug is in place. It is located in one of the holes near the corner on the top of the engine block, right next to where the oil filter goes. Place the bearings for the main crank in place by sitting them inside the engine shaft. Lubricate each bearing with engine assembly lubricant.

5

Lay the crankshaft in the engine shaft by caully aligning each piece of the crankshaft with the corresponding bearings. Cover the crankshaft with the main bearing caps, which should be bolted into place. Tighten each bolt with a ratchet, but avoid over tightening the bolts.

6

Insert the rods and the piston through the cylinders and connect these to the crankshaft using the connecting bearings. Bolt the rods to the bearings on each rod. Test out each rod and piston assembly to ensure that each has proper clearance to move through the cylinder.

7

Cut the block where needed to ensure proper clearance for the motor. Install both the cam and the cam bearings once you have the necessary clearance. Install the timing gear on the crankshaft, along with the crank bearings and the timing chain.

8

Replace the wires in the original configuration based on your wiring diagram and labels. Replace exterior bolts responsible for holding the engine block in place.

Sportsters come equipped with rear directional signals installed to the rearmost hole of the rear fender trim. The disconnectible turn signals leads branch off the rear wiring harness inside the rear fender. Sportster turn signals are usually relocated or reinstalled to accommodate saddlebag mounts. Sometimes the turn signals are changed for purely aesthetic reasons. Signals can be shaped like Maltese Crosses, skulls, spades and other outlaw icons. In some jurisdictions it is legal to run only "whisker" turn signals which are integral to the license plate frame. The wiring is approximately the same for all these installations. The Harley rear turn signal relocation kit installs with moderate ease.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster on a motorcycle jack high enough for the rear wheel to hang down. Set a flashlight or shop light under the rear fender so you can see what youre doing.

2

Unbolt the seat mounting bolt just behind the seat with an Allen wrench. Pull the seat up, back and off.

3

Loosen and remove the black battery cable from the negative battery post with an open end wrench.

4

Pry the small plug from the tail light access hole on the rear fender interior with a small screwdriver.

5

Pull the turn signal wiring harness inside the rear fender from the tail light housing. Unhook the signal wiring from the clips inside the rear fender.

6

Pull the two turn signal connections apart into male and female halves. Mark the socket halves with tape for future erence. Pull the turn signal wires from the two turn signal connections.

7

Loosen the screws on the rear of the fender trim on both sides of the Sportster with an Allen wrench. Remove the turn signals and the old mounting brackets from both sides of the bike.

8

Cut a piece of the shrink wrap tubing included with the turn signal relocation kit in half with a pair of shears. Slide the tubing over the exposed turn signal wires up to the signals for both sides of the Sportster. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

9

Push the turn signal lamps and wires on both sides of the fender completely through the small holes on both ends of the new taillight mounting bracket. Push the wires through the open holes in the rear fender trim.

10

Install the new turn signal brackets into the open holes on both sides of the fender by hand. Tighten the fender trim screws by hand.

11

Ensure the wires from both turns signals are inside the rear fender. Tighten the fender trim screws with an Allen wrench.

12

Connect the turn signal wires to the signal connections inside both sides of the fender. Arrange the turn signals so they face back and tighten the hex nut and washer on both signals with an open end wrench.

13

Connect the turn signal wires to the female half of both turn signal connectors on both sides of the fender by hand. Plug the female and male halves of the turn signal connectors back together by hand.

14

Push the loose wires and the gray tail lamp connector back into the tail lamp housing inside the fender. Replace the plug into the tail light access hole in the rear fender.

15

Route the turn signal wires along the inside edges of the fender and secure with cable ties.

The 1994 Corvette has tail lights that are readily accessible from the rear of the car. As a result, if you have a tail light burn out, you can replace it in just a few minutes. Make sure that you use the light bulb that is compatible with the socket.

Instructions

1

Take the two screws out from either side of the tail light using your Phillips head screwdriver. You can reach them from the rear of the car. See page 198 of the manual in the References section for a diagram.

2

Remove the lens, and put it on a safe, level surface.

3

Push the burnt-out bulb inward and then turn it counterclockwise, or to the left. Then remove it by pulling it toward yourself.

4

Slide the new bulb into the socket. Press it in and turn clockwise, or to the right.

5

Replace the tail light lens, and then put the screws back in with the Phillips head screwdriver.

An L-pad is essentially a sliding rheostat used in audio setups, be it in your car or in your home audio setup. To calculate the resistance values in an L-pad, you need to test the individual resistors with a multimeter set to resistance. This will then tell you what the individual resistances are of the wires. You can then determine what the resistance value of the L-pad is by checking the setting of the the slide.

Instructions

1

Turnon the circuit with which you are working. Ensure that there is power flowing from the power source to the audio player by turning the multimeter dial tothe voltage setting. Plug the probes to the voltage holes on the face of the multimeter. Touch the red probe to the wire going into the L-pad and the black probe to the wire coming from the L-pad. If the multimeter displays a positive voltage, then you have a live current.

2

Slide the L-pad slide to the topmost setting. Turn the multimeter to the resistance setting and plug the probes into the resistance holes in the face of the multimeter. Put the red probe on one side of the resistor in the L-pad that is connected to the top setting contacts. Place the black probe on the other side of the resistor that is connected to the top settings contacts. Read the resistance value and write it down.

3

Slide the slide down to the next lower setting and place the robes on either side of the resistor connected to those contacts. Write down the resistance value. Repeat this process for all the resistors in the L-pad to obtain the resistance value of the L-pad.

Most cars equipped with an automatic transmission have a feature commonly known as "shift lock," which prevents the driver from shifting out of park when the car is off, when the foot brake isnt applied or when the cars computer senses damage to the engine or transmission. Whatever the situation, sometimes the driver has to override a locked transmission in order to move the car.

Instructions

1

Apply pressure to the foot brake, and turn the engine on.

2

Attempt to shift from park. Sometimes the car rolls backwards during parking, causing the shifter to be slightly stuck, not "locked." If it doesnt budge, its probably the shift lock.

3

Turn off the engine.

4

Search "shift lock" in the index of your Audis manual. Over the years, Audi has used different types of shift locks, two of the most common being an actual button near the shifter, and the other requiring the removal of the plastic panel surrounding the shifter.

5

Depress the shift-lock override button. If the button or mechanism is under the panel that surrounds the shifter, follow your manuals instructions to remove the panel.

6

Shift the car into neutral while still holding or pressing the shift lock override and with pressure still applied to the brake.

7

Turn on the engine while the car is in neutral, and shift into drive or reverse.

Automotive battery terminal corrosion can be caused by a number of different factors. Typically, battery corrosion should be taken as a sign your battery is older and may be having issues. Corrosion can affect the way your cars battery works and is acidic enough to destroy almost anything that comes in contact with it.

Faulty Terminals

Battery corrosion can be caused by loose or improperly functioning battery terminals. If the connectors and terminals are not tight, corrosion can build when gases and other substances come in contact with the metal on the battery terminals or posts, causing chemical reactions. Dirty battery terminals will also cause corrosion, because the dirt causes the terminal connection to be looser than it would be otherwise.

Battery Gases

One of the primary causes of battery corrosion occurs when gases from inside the battery escape into the outside air where they come in contact with the battery posts and terminals, causing corrosion to build on the metal of the posts and terminals. Battery gases may escape due to loose or improperly functioning battery terminals or cracks or holes in the actual battery casing.

High Temperatures

The warmer the climate you live in, the more quickly corrosion will build on your battery. Power Battery claims that batteries kept in climates of temperatures where the battery is regularly warmer than 77 degrees Fahrenheit will corrode more rapidly than those in cooler climates.

Ford and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) announced a 2005 recall of 199,942 vehicles due to windshield wiper problems. Registered vehicle owners affected by the recall should have received instruction on where to bring the vehicles for inspection and free repair.

Defect and Affected Models

The windshield wiper recall affected Ford E-150, E-250, E-350, E-450, Escape, Expedition, Explorer, F-150, Ranger and Taurus; Lincoln Mark LT and Navigator; and Mercury Mariner and Mountaineer vehicles from the 2006 model year. On affected Fords, the manufacturing process may have occurred without the application of grease to the windshield wiper motors output shaft gear.

Risk

Per the NHTSA, the lack of grease application in the manufacturing process could cause the gear to distort or fracture during operation after a period of continuous use on the high speed setting. If the wipers were to fail in inclement weather, impaired visibility could cause an accident.

Remedy

Ford charged authorized dealers with inspecting the wiper motor and greasing the wiper motor gears if necessary. Concerned Ford owners may contact the NHTSA or visit the NHTSA website to determine whether their vehicle might have been part of this or other recalls.

Signs that indicate the need to replace a heater core include coolant in the floor area of the Ford Aerostar, and greasy film at the bottom of the windshield. If not replaced, windows will begin to fog and floor boards will begin to rust, which could lead to overheating due to loss of antifreeze. Replacing the heater core in the Ford Aerostar takes a couple of tools and a few of hours to complete.

Instructions

Replacing the Heater Core

1

Open the valve at the bottom of the radiator by removing the radiator cap to drain the cooling system. Always drain the coolant into a container that can be sealed and reused if its not several years old. When draining the coolant, remember animals are attracted to antifreeze, and will drink any that is left in an open container or on the ground. This will make pets sick and could be fatal.

2

Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core using tool T85T-18539-AH, to compress the couplers. The T85T-18539-AH tool or a comparable tool is available at most auto-parts stores; some auto parts stores offer the borrowing or rental of tools. The heater hoses connect to the heater core tubes on the fire wall passenger side of the engine compartment. Plug the heater hoses with small pieces of a rag to stop any coolant loss while removing the heater core.

3

While working in the passenger compartment, lay an old towel on the floorboard in case any coolant spills. Remove the six screws holding the heater core access door to the blower assembly; remove the access door. Depress the retainer clips at the top of the heater core and pull the heater core toward the bottom of the passenger seat, removing it from the blower assembly.

4

Remove the new heater core from the manufacturers box. Make sure it matches the old one. Position the new heater core caully into the blower assembly, snapping the top of the heater core into the retainer clips. Install the heater core access door to the blower assembly with the six screws that were removed.

5

Reconnect the heater hoses to the new heater core tubes inside the engine compartment. Push on the heater hose coupler until it locks. Tighten the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant. Start the Ford Aerostar, leaving the radiator cap off and turning the heater on high. Watch for coolant level to drop in the radiator, then turn the ignition off. Top off with coolant and replace the radiator cap.

6

This is a good time to check for leaks. Start the vehicle and let it warm up with the heater on high. While waiting for the vehicle to warm up, drain the coolant from the old heater core into a suitable container. Check for leaks at the hose connections and under the dash on the passenger side. If there are no leaks, discard the old heater core and towel from the passenger floorboard.

The common engine in the Chevy Cavalier is the 2.2 liter four cylinder. A few models have a 2.4 liter engine. Both engines use two oxygen sensors. Oxygen sensors read the amount of air and burned fuels in the exhaust system and transmit that data to the engine management computer through voltage. The computer then adjusts the ratio of air and fuel to lower the pollution in exhaust. When the sensor fails in the Cavalier, the computer ignores it and makes its own adjustments, which can cause more pollution, less gas mileage or both.

Instructions

1

Locate the oxygen sensor that needs replacing. If youre replacing the front one (upstream), you can access it in the engine compartment by lifting the hood. If you are replacing the rear sensor (downstream), youll need to lift the Cavaliers front end with the floor jack and support it safely and securely onto the jack stands. The front sensor is located in the front lower center of the engine and screwed into the header pipe. The rear sensor is located in the exhaust pipe near the catalytic converter. Put on safety glasses if you crawl under the Cavalier.

2

Locate the wire harness to the oxygen sensor. Use the flathead screwdriver to press in on the clip lock of the plug on the oxygen sensor wire and separate it from the wire harness.

3

Spray a liberal amount of penetrating oil on the threads of the oxygen sensor and allow the oil to soak in.

4

Place the box end wrench or socket onto the oxygen sensor and turn it counterclockwise to unthread it from the exhaust pipe. Remove the sensor.

5

Thread the new sensor into the oxygen sensor porthole in the exhaust pipe and tighten using the wrench or socket and a ratchet. Do not overtighten. Make sure its snug, but it is easy to strip the threads on the oxygen sensor so be caul.

6

Plug the oxygen sensor wire back into the wire harness and secure the wire so it does not dangle.

7

Remove the tools and either lower the vehicle or close the hood.

The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup truck that has been in production since 1998. It is available with several types of V-6 and V-8 engines, which have a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket varies slightly, depending on which cylinder head you must remove. These procedures are generally the same for the 4.3-liter, 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines in the 2000 Chevrolet pickup.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable using the socket wrench. Detach the bleed pipe for the coolant from the right cylinder head. Disconnect the intake manifold and remove the push rods from the engine. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

2

Remove the mounting bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the alternator bracket that is behind the power steering pump, and push the bracket aside with the alternator still attached.

3

Disconnect the bolt that attaches the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the oil level tube from the right cylinder head, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and discard the 11-mm mounting bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the engine and discard the cylinder head gasket.

5

Clean the bolt holes on the engine block with GM spray cleaner, part number 12346139, and blow the holes clear with compressed air. Remove the thread-locking material from the 8-mm mounting bolts with the GM driver tool, part number J 42385-107. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the locating pins on the engine block, then install the cylinder head over the locating pins.

6

Fasten new 11-mm mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Apply a 0.2-inch bead of GM thread lock compound, part number 12345382, to the threads of the 8-mm bolts, and fasten them by hand.

7

Tighten the 11-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the 11-mm bolts an additional 90 degrees on the second pass, then tighten them another 70 degrees on the third pass. Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds, beginning with the center bolt. Work your way outward on the 8-mm bolts, alternating from side to side.

8

Connect the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Mount the bracket for the alternator and tighten its bolts to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, including the mounting bolt below the power steering pump. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine, and install the push rods. Attach the bleed pipe for the coolant to the right cylinder head, and connect the negative battery cable.

The dash pad on a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado is also called the upper instrument trim panel. This panel runs the entire length of the passenger cabin and must be removed in order to access the gauge cluster and the interior ventilation ducts. This panel also contains the passenger-side assist handle and covers the upper portion of the passenger air bag unit. All 2004 model year Silverados contain this panel, despite their seating or cab configuration.

Instructions

Removal

1

Set the parking brake and turn the air flow control to the vent position. Move the gear selector lever, if equipped with an automatic transmission, to first gear to allow more space between the shift lever and the trim panel. Depress the tilt lever on the steering wheel and tilt the wheel as far down as it will go.

2

Pry off the end panel between the drivers door and the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Pry off the end panel between the passenger door and the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Pry off the instrument panel cluster trim plate bezel with a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Pry the right-side air vents out of the dashboard with a flat-head screwdriver. Insert a flat-head screwdriver through the duct outlet holes and depress the release tabs for the assist handle, then remove the assist handle.

4

Pry the windshield A-pillar moldings away from the pillars until they pop loose with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the A-pillar moldings. Remove the bolts holding the trim panel to the supporting skeleton underneath the dashboard with a metric socket and a ratchet.

5

Lift up on the trim panel with both hands until the self-contained locking clips pop loose. Disconnect the ambient light sensors electrical connector and then completely remove the upper instrument trim panel from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reconnect the ambient light sensors electrical connector to the underside of the instrument panel and set it into position. Press down on the panel to seat the panels integrated locking clips.

7

Reinstall the screws holding the trim panel to the dashboard skeleton with a ratchet and a metric socket. Torque the screws to 18 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Set the A-Pillar moldings into place and press them down until they snap into position on top of the A-pillar skeletons

9

Set the assist handle into position in front of the dash panel and press down on it until it locks into place. Pull on the handle to confirm that it is securely locked into place.

10

Place the vents into position in the air ducts and press down on them until they click into position. Snap the dashboard end panels into position.

11

Snap the instrument panel trim plate bezel into position. Tilt the wheel back to a normal position and shift the gear selector lever, if equipped, back into park.

Acetylene torches can be used for heating and bending metal, welding and brazing, or cutting through steel and stainless steel. The correct head for the torch must be used for each type of job. For instance, a rosebud head is used for heating metal and doing welding or brazing, while a cutting head is attached to the torch mixing handle in order to perform cutting operations.

Instructions

1

Open the valves on both the oxygen and acetylene tanks by rotating the valve handle on each tank in a counterclockwise direction until it cannot be turned any farther. Turn each handle clockwise until the desired pressure in the hose has been achieved.

2

Open the oxygen valve on the acetylene torch mixing handle to the fully open position by rotating it in a counterclockwise direction. Leave the valve open for 3 to 5 seconds and reclose the valve by turning it in a clockwise direction until the valve is completely closed, purging the oxygen line. Purge the acetylene line in the same manner. Purging the lines will ensure that there is no oxygen in the acetylene line and no acetylene in the oxygen line.

3

Attach the appropriate head to the acetylene torch mixing handle for the job being done. Open the acetylene valve by turning it 1/8 to 1/4 turn in a counterclockwise direction. Light the acetylene by holding a spark lighter over the end of the torch and squeezing its handle. This will result in a spark that ignites the acetylene.

4

Open the acetylene valve slowly and continuously until the flame stops smoking. The resulting flame will be up approximately 8 inches long. Open the oxygen valve on the torch mixing handle by turning counterclockwise until the flame loses its feather around the inner core.

5

Perform the welding, bending or cutting operation.

6

Turn off the acetylene torch by first turning the oxygen valve on the mixing handle in a clockwise direction until it is closed. Close the acetylene valve on the mixing handle by turning clockwise until the valve is seated.

A universal joint, otherwise called a u-joint, is found in many automotive applications, as well as in other mechanics. For example, a u-joint is used in vehicles between the drive train bar and the transmission or axle where the bars meet at a right angle. There are three main designs of u-joints, each designed for a specific application.

Hooke

The Hooke style universal joint is perhaps the most widely known joint in the United States. The joint consists of two rods that are connected at the center by a four-pin attachment. The two rods are slender on the outer half and thicker on the inner half. The Hooke u-joint was designed by Robert Hooke, curator of experiments at the Royal Society in 1662. Hookes work was primarily focused on the mechanics of clocks and other astronomical measuring tools.

Ring and Trunnion

The ring and trunnion universal joint is designed with a female and a male rod at either end of the center cross point. The center cross is an open circle with four protruding points that poke through the holes on the male and female rods. Within the center of the ring and trunnion u-joint is a bushing and a lock ring that help maintain the center cross between the rods. The ring and trunnion is often seen inside the drive shaft of a vehicle.

Bendix-Weiss

Bendix-Weiss is a universal ball joint that has a hollow center containing four small metal balls. The two rods are formed to hook together at a cross section, and the metal balls sit in each corner socket. A a fifth, smaller ball is situated in the very center of the cross point to help stabilize the entire device during rotations. The Bendix-Weiss joint is designed to carry the exact amount of torque on one arm of the joint as on each of the other arms. This equal balance is valuable to applications involving heavy and complex vehicles in the military, for example.

The Mazda 6 sedan is equipped with fixed door mirrors that may be subject to damage from minor car accidents. The procedure for replacing a door mirror is simple enough to be performed at home using basic tools, although it does require partial removal of the interior door panel. You can obtain a replacement mirror at either a Mazda dealer parts counter or you may find one at a local parts shop or junkyard.

Instructions

Removing the door and mirror assemblies

1

Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.

2

Remove the tweeter speaker assembly from the inside of the door where the window frame meets the front of the door. Use a wide, flat bladed screwdriver or your fingers to caully pop the retaining clips around the assembly away from the door.

3

Disconnect the tweeter assembly from the doors wiring by pushing the locking pin down and separating the connector pieces. Set the tweeter assembly aside.

4

Pop off the cover for the door light at the base of the door panel. This is held in place by plastic prongs. Once this is removed, remove the screw located underneath.

5

Pop open the small cap underneath the passenger side door handle and remove the screw hidden below the cap. Pull the door handle out and remove the plastic surrounding piece. Disconnect the wiring for the power door lock and set the plastic surrounding piece aside.

6

In the door handle "pocket," pull the rubbery trim piece up ---this is secured by adhesive--- just enough to access the screw hidden beneath. Remove the screw.

7

Caully work your way around the door panel starting at the base and pull the panel out to the retaining clips holding the panel in place. There are two clips at the back (latching) side, there are two along the base, one at the front lower corner, and three going up the front (hinge) side.

8

Lift the door panel vertically to disengage the hooks from the top of the door. You may be able to just disengage the front hook while leaving the rear hook clipped. Allow the panel to come away from the door structure enough to allow access to the three bolts holding the door mirror in place. This will not require disconnecting the power window harness.

9

Disconnect the power mirror electrical connector and remove the three nuts holding the mirror assembly on the door. Gently work the mirror away from the door.

Installing the mirror and door assemblies

10

Insert the bolts on the replacement mirror assembly through the openings in the door and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts, ensuring that the fit is snug and even. Reconnect the power mirror wiring harness.

11

Hook the door panel back to the top of the door structure, caully ensuring that the panel lines up properly and that the interior door handle fits through the cutout in the door panel. Work around the door panel pushing each of the retaining clips back into place.

12

Insert the screw into the hole in the door handle pocket ---under the rubbery trim--- and tighten it to snug. Push the trim down and hold until the adhesive sticks it into place.

13

Clip the wiring connector for the power door lock back onto the harness and work the trim piece into place around the interior door handle. Insert the screw into the hole in the trim piece and tighten until snug. Push the cap into place covering the screw. Insert the screw into the hole by the door light and tighten until snug. Clip the door light cover into place.

14

Reconnect the tweeter wiring harness and reinstall it by pushing the retaining clips back into place. Reconnect the cars battery and test to make sure that the electrical connections are properly installed and that all devices work as intended.

Burns Unburned Exhaust Gases

The main purpose of an automotive catalytic converter is to burn unburned engine exhaust gases exiting a cars engine. Engine combustion is not an exact science; theore, during normal engine operation, there are small bits of unburned fuel that get pushed out a cars engine during the exhaust stroke of an engine cycle. When this happens, the unburned fuel flows down a cars exhaust pipe on its way to the car tail pipe, where it would get released into the outside air. A catalytic converter, which looks almost identical to a car muffler in shape and size, is filled with small charcoal-like pellets called catalyst which become super-heated as exhaust gas flows pas them. These super-heated pellets react with the unburned gas molecules in a cars exhaust and simply reburn them, turning them into simple water and carbon dioxide molecules.

Makes Unleaded Gasoline Use Mandatory

Cars equipped with catalytic converters must be operated with unleaded gasoline only. Unleaded gasoline, due to its absence of lead, is a much cleaner and environmentally-friendly fuel than leaded gasoline. Lead is toxic to the environment and toxic to human health. The catalyst material used in catalytic converters, usually consisting of small platinum-coated charcoal pellets, are highly-sensitive to lead-based gasoline and would quickly be ruined and rendered ineffective if exposed to leaded gas. Theore, catalytic converter-equipped cars are designed to run on unleaded gasoline only, a gasoline that is inherently cleaner and less toxic than leaded gasolines. So, not only do catalytic converters help to make engine exhaust gases cleaner, they automatically require the use of cleaner gasoline to begin with.

Retards Exhaust Gas Flow

Catalytic converters create a small amount of back pressure within a cars engine. This is due to the constrictive effects that a catalytic converter has on exiting engine exhaust gases; the charcoal pellets combined with the small exhaust tubing within a catalytic converter slows down the speed at which exhaust gases exit an engine. Due to this slowing down of engine exhaust gas flow, a cars engine has slightly more time in which to adequately combust, or burn, its air/fuel mixture, a process that results in slightly cleaner exiting engine exhaust gases.

Knowing how to safely lift any vehicle and support it onto jack stands is important, no matter what make or model the vehicle is. The Ford Taurus is no exception. If lifting one axle on the Taurus (front or rear), a single set of jack stands will be required. If lifting both axles, you will need two sets of stands. In addition, while the factory-supplied scissor jacks for emergency roadside repair will safely lift the Taurus, a better and safer option would be using a hydraulic floor jack.

Instructions

1

Place the two wheel chocks against the front and rear of a tire (doesnt matter which one) on the opposite axle from which the Taurus is being lifted first (if raising both axles).

2

Place the block of wood on the cradle of the floor jack and align it beneath the rocker panel seam of the Ford Taurus (front or rear). The wood block will help prevent bending or damaging the rocker panel seam Turn the handle of the jack clockwise as far as it will go to activate the hydraulic lift.

3

Pump the handle to raise the cradle and block of wood, making sure the alignment of the wood and cradle is centered to the rocker panel seam before contacting it.

4

Continue to pump the jack handle until the corner of the Taurus is elevated high enough to allow the jack stand to be placed under it. For front axle, place the jack stand(s) under the front frame rail (about 10 inches in from the rocker panel seam) of the Taurus. Theres one frame rail each for drivers and passengers sides, but the rail only runs about half the length of the Ford Taurus, so using the rail for rear axle support is not an option. For the rear axle support, place the jack stand(s) near the jack under the rocker panel seam.

5

Turn the handle of the jack counterclockwise slowly to release the hydraulic tension on the jack and allow the Taurus to slowly lower and contact the arm of the jack stand. Be sure the alignment of the arm of the stand is located directly beneath the front frame rail or rear rocker panel seam respectively.

6

Repeat the procedure for the opposite side of the same axle using the jack and the block of wood. If lifting all four corners, lift the opposite axle and support it onto jack stands (one side at a time) after one axle is secured onto jack stands.

The shaft to which the cam attaches in your car engine is known as the camshaft. The cam, usually part of a wheel or circular shaft, consists of a rotating piece of machinery that either changes linear motion into rotary motion or vice versa. Camshaft holding tools allow you to manipulate nearby machinery and devices without actually having to remove the camshaft physically. You can order all of these parts online.

Schley Holding Tool

The Schley overhead camshaft (OHC) Pulley Holding Tool works with some Toyota and Nissan camshafts. This tool has a similar design to a wrench, except it has two grooved pins protruding from it. These pins prevent the camshaft pulley from moving while you either tighten or loosen the shafts center bolt. This tool proves especially useful for Asian V-6 motors, allowing you to access the rear pulley. You may at times find it difficult to access this pulley, as it sits near the shock tower or strut bar. This tool weighs 1.1 lbs., and it costs between $35 and $55 as of 2010.

DOHC Lock Tool

The Lisle Dual Overhead Camshaft (DOHC) Lock Tool allows you to access the chains and timing belt without having to remove the entire camshaft. This tool, which keeps the camshaft sprockets stationary as you manipulate the other items, incorporates two flat ends and a bar running down the middle connecting the two. The design allows the tool to float between the two sprockets, essentially locking them in place. The tool will also act to keep the engine in time even when you are replacing the timing belt. Designed to work with any vehicle with a dual overhead camshaft, this tool costs between $30 and $40 as of 2010.

VW/Audi Locking Tool

Assenmacher specifically makes its Camshaft Locking Tool for the Volkswagen (VW) or Audi 2.0 Liter Turbo vehicle. This metal tool has two spokes that fit into the sprockets and lock them into place. This camshaft locking tool works in conjunction with locking pins, camshaft adjuster socket and a timing belt spanner wrench. The tool, compatible with VW/Audi vehicles made between 2006 and 2008, costs between $100 and $130 as of 2010.

Mini bike motors are harder to repair than normal bike motors, due to their smaller scale of size. However, they are almost identical in structure. Repairing a mini bike motor will require disassembly, diagnosis, and reassembly. You will need to have some experience in working with motors to be able to complete the diagnosis, but the disassembly and reassembly processes will be easy. The whole process will take up to a week, not including the time it takes to order replacement parts.

Instructions

1

Turn off the bike if it is not already turned off. If you just turned it off, wait 2 hours before disassembling it.

2

Read over the troubleshooting section of the manual and check out which parts may have problems. Also, look over the assembly diagram to familiarize yourself with the machine.

3

Unscrew the screws on the case with a screwdriver from the toolkit. Lift away the case and lay it on the ground. Pull the wire away from the spark plug. Locate the motor towards the front end of the bike. Unbolt the bolts on the motor and caully lift the motor towards the front of the bike and then away from the bike. Set it gently on the floor or a worktable.

4

Remove the spark plug by unscrewing and then pulling it away. Remove the bolts holding the carburetor in place. Lift the carburetor away from the rest of the motor. Remove the cylinders, pistons, and bearings by pulling them away from the motor.

5

Check all the parts for consistency with the manual. Check for broken, rusted, or irregularly shaped parts. Also, check for missing parts. Order any parts that need replacement.

6

Install the bearings, pistons, and cylinder by pushing them back into place. Match the holes on the carburetor with the poles on the motor and gently lay the carburetor down on the motor. Bolt the carburetor in place with a socket wrench from the toolkit. Install the spark plug by screwing it back into its socket with your hand.

7

Pick the motor up and match it with the poles sticking out from the frame around 2 feet behind the wheel. Stick the motor in and bolt it in place. Stick the wire socket back on to the spark plug by pushing it firmly. Screw the case back on the bike.

If you have lost your keyless remote for your 2000 Honda, you can buy a replacement remote. The replacement wont work until you manually program it for your car. You must have a key to the ignition and be able to turn on the car; this will enter the car into programming mode. If you fulfill a few basic security steps to prove that you have access to the car, you will be able to program any number of keyless remotes.

Instructions

1

Insert the car key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. This will be the second click as you turn the key.

2

Press the "lock or "unlock" button on the keyless remote.

3

Turn the car key back to the locked position. This is also known as the "0" position because the key cannot be twisted anymore to the left. You will know if the key is in the "0" position if the key can be pulled out of the car.

4

Repeat steps 1 through 3 two more times, and be sure to use the same keyless remote each time. You should have now completed steps 1 through 3 three times.

5

Turn the ignition key to the "on" or "II" position by turning the key until you feel it click twice.

6

Press either the "lock" or "unlock" button on the keyless remote. You will now be in programming mode. If done properly, the power locks on the doors will lock and unlock automatically.

7

Press the "lock" or "unlock" button one more time. This should be done for any keyless remote you wish to program. You will know it is done correctly when the car locks automatically.

8

Turn the ignition back to the "0" or locked setting, and remove the key from the ignition.

The spark plug is a vital component in the operation of an internal combustion engine. As the name implies, the spark plug creates a spark that ignites gasoline inside a combustion chamber. This creates the energy to force the piston downward. The movement of the pistons gives the engine its power. To make sure that the engine operates as smoothly and efficiently as possible, it needs to be tuned up on a regular basis. An important part of that tune-up is removing and replacing the spark plugs, a process thats fairly straightforward.

Instructions

1

Make sure the engine is cool. The spark plugs are one of the hottest components of an engine.

2

Clean any dirt or debris from around the base of the plug to keep dirt from falling into the combustion chamber. Use compressed air to blow debris away if it is available.

3

Use your owners manual to find the spark plugs. Most engines have spark plugs wires that lead to the spark plugs. Newer engines may have individual ignition coils mounted over the spark plugs.

4

Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug by pulling on the rubber boot. Do not pull on the wire itself. If equipped with ignition coils, remove the ignition coil mounting bolt to remove the coil and reveal the spark plug.

5

Install the spark plug socket on the socket wrench. You may need to use a swivel joint or a socket wrench extension to reach spark plugs in the back of the engine.

6

Place the socket over the spark plug and turn the socket wrench counterclockwise to loosen the spark plug. Use steady force to remove a stubborn plug. Too much force can shear off the top of a spark plug or strip the threads.

7

Continue to turn the wrench until the spark plug comes out of the hole. Once loosened, you should be able to remove it by hand.

An engines head gasket separates the engine block and the cylinder head. It seals the cylinders and protects against coolant and oil leakage. If a gasket breaks and fluids are allowed to escape, the engine will eventually overheat and can cause damage that can result in the need for repair or replacement. If a gasket breaks and leaks compression, your power and fuel economy will suffer.

Overheating

When an engine overheats, the head gasket materials expand and sometimes crack. Once compromised, the gasket will leak coolant or compression and eventually the engine can stop working completely. Common causes of overheating include loss of coolant due to leaky hoses or a clogged filter or radiator.

Excessive Mileage and Wear

Cars are not made to run forever, and eventually the head gasket will wear and can crack. Taking good care of your vehicle and maintaining fluid levels can increase the life of your head gasket and engine.

Human Error

A number of installation issues can cause a head gasket to be improperly sealed. If your engine was worked on recently and you experience a head gasket failure, its possible that something was done incorrectly during the repairs. Head gaskets need to be installed in a particular sequence using the proper tools and to the correct calibration or they can leak and crack.

Poor Design

Occasionally, a manufacturer oversight will cause a gasket to be approved even though it is substandard. The materials can wear over time or suddenly crack. Check with the dealer or search for known issues for your vehicle. Dont miss regularly scheduled maintenance and check fluid levels often so that if a problem develops it can be addressed before the entire engine is lost.

Most automobiles are sold with multiple sets of keys. It is possible to misplace all the keys for your car. If you do lose all your cars keys, it is often possible to take the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) to a dealer for a replacement key. A locksmith can be expensive and should be your option of last resort. If you present the VIN and proof of ownership to a dealer, they can get a replacement key from the manufacturer.

Instructions

1

Locate the VIN and note it. An autos VIN is usually stamped on a metal plate near the drivers side of the dashboard. The VIN can also be found inside the engine compartment, stamped on the engine or on a metal tag attached to the engine.

2

Take the VIN along with personal photo identification and proof of ownership to a dealer for that particular model of vehicle.

3

Present your proof of ownership to the dealer. A registration or title in your name, indicating the VIN, is the best proof of ownership.

4

Wait while the dealer contacts the manufacturer and has a duplicate key made. This process can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days.

The 1964 Ford Thunderbird was fitted only with the 390 cubic-inch engine. The 390 was a big-block engine and featured exhaust manifolds that tilted downward at a sharp angle, making removal difficult. To make matters worse, the Thunderbirds engine compartment was relatively small. Whereas the exhaust manifolds on most cars of the time could be removed from the top of the engine compartment, the Thunderbirds limited access requires that some bolts be removed from above the car and the others from underneath it.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood and remove the bolt at the center of the manifold, the three bolts at the front of the manifold and the bolt at the top of the back end of the manifold with a wrench.

2

Raise the front of the car with a jack to increase the work space underneath the car, then lower the Thunderbird onto safety stands.

3

Remove the two bolts that secure the exhaust pipe to the back of the manifold with a wrench, then pull the pipe away from the manifold.

4

Remove the two remaining exhaust manifold bolts from underneath the car with a wrench.

5

Pull the manifold off of the cylinder head from above the engine compartment.

6

Guide the manifold out of the engine compartment from underneath the vehicle.

Most of the latest model vehicles have become so user-friendly that drivers no longer even have to dial their own phones to make a phone call --- you can just tell your vehicle to call your mom and your vehicle, after clarifying whether you want her cell or home phone, will make the call for you. Despite the conveniences modern cars offer, one thing has become more complicated as cars become smarter: replacing your car keys. The latest model vehicles, including Jeeps, are equipped with computer chips that read your car keys. If you lose the key to a newer model Jeep, youll have to have a new one cut and programmed, which is costly. Replacing the keys to your 1996 Jeep is far less complicated.

Instructions

1

Contact any locksmith or Jeep dealership in your neighborhood to obtain a replacement key for your 1996 Jeep.

2

Provide the locksmith or dealership with the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your Jeep so they can use it to obtain the information on how to cut your specific key. VINs are located on your insurance, registration and purchase paperwork as well as on your drivers door panel and on the bottom left side of your Jeeps windshield.

3

Schedule a time to visit your Jeep dealer or to have a locksmith come to you to replace your 1996 Jeep key.

4

Pay for your new keys and you will be on your way.

Society of Automotive Engineers fittings come in a variety of sizes. These fittings also come in adjustable and non-adjustable versions. This means that the adjustable fittings can be turned or oriented in a specific direction, whereas the non-adjustable fittings are used where there is no specific direction or other alignment needed. SAE fittings which use O-rings offer superior seals to the older, standard metal-to-metal fittings. Since fittings must be tightened to such high torque ranges, the threads are more apt to distort and fail. Installing these fittings does require a process, but the quality of seal difference is well worth the effort.

Instructions

1

Examine the components of the fittings very closely, looking for any warping or other design faults. Thoroughly lubricate the non-adjustable O-ring and threads with the hydraulic system fluid and wait a few seconds before making the connection.

2




Start the non-adjustable fitting into its port, taking the time to start it exactly straight. Turn it until it is finger-tight. Finish tightening the fitting to its chart-specific torque setting with the torque wrench and torque chart.

3

Connect the adjustable fittings by following the first two steps plus these additional steps. Orient the fitting so that you are looking directly at the open end. This is the end from which it is possible to see the nut, the washer and the O-ring. Turn the nut of the fitting assembly as far to the right as you can. Turn it clockwise.

4




Turn the entire fitting assembly into its female connection or port until the washer comes into contact with the nearest wrench pad with a wrench. Reverse the turn on the fitting with the wrench and turn no more than one single complete turn. Turn it less if the fitting can be set in the position it needs to be set without less than a complete 360-degree revolution.

5

Position another wrench on the wrench pad of the fitting so that the fitting stays put without turning at all. Holding the wrench on the wrench pad, torque the nut to the exact value you find for that size nut on the torque chart.

Casting numbers are a unique stamp on the engine parts to tell when a part was originally designed and what car it was originally designed for. This does not mean that the part was not used on other cars. Most casting numbers are stamped into the part itself; others have the number molded on the part. Some casting numbers can be ink-stamped while others are printed on paper, which is then wrapped around the part.

Instructions

1

Identify which type of Ford Falcon engine you have by looking in the owners manual. There are two casting types for this make of engine, the 221 and the 260.

2

Look near the rear of the engine block, under the intake manifold, for the casting number on a 221 engine. 221 casting numbers are: C2OE-6069-A, B, C, D OR E

C3OE-6069-A.

3

Locate the casting number for a 260 engine under the right side cylinder bank near the rear of the engine block. 260 casting numbers are: C2OE-6069-F, C3OE-6069-B, C4OE-6069-B.

The orifice tube on a Ford truck is a hard debris filter for the air conditioning system. If a component in the system fails, the orifice tube prevents the debris from the failure from spreading throughout the system.

Location

The orifice tube resides in the liquid line between the receiver/dryer and the evaporator. The liquid line brings rigerant into the evaporator, the component that removes heat from the air in the passenger compartment.

Purpose

The rigerant flows through the AC system, outward from the AC compressor, through the manifold hose, condenser, receiver/dryer and evaporator before returning to the compressor.

Purpose

When performing a full AC system inspection, after evacuating the system with a rigerant service machine, remove the orifice tube and visually inspect it. If you note any signs of debris in the line, the AC compressor is most likely coming apart inside and requires replacement.

The 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee has two license plate bulbs in the rear. Theyre located on the hatch shelf directly above the license plate. The front license plate doesnt require illumination, so it has no bulbs. Rear license-plate illumination, on the other hand, is mandated by law in the United States. Lighting in the rear can be overlooked since its impossible for a driver to see the back of the vehicle when driving. The license plate bulbs come on when the headlight switch is turned on.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the headlight switch is off. If necessary, turn on the headlight switch to determine which license plate bulb is out (unless youre replacing both). Turn the switch back off after checking.

2

Raise your 1997 Grand Cherokees rear hatch.

3

Remove the retaining screw on the lens cover of the faulty license plate bulb, using the screwdriver. Each lens only has one screw; its on the inside edge of the lens.

4

Pull the lens downward from where the retaining screw was removed. There is a small tab on the other side of the lens that acts as a hinge and holds the other side of the lens in place.

5

Pull the spent bulb straight out of the socket. Push the replacement bulb into the socket and test the light before replacing the lens assembly. Ensure that the tab on the lens is seated inside the bulbs cavity when reassembling it.

Torx-heads screws are used in auto manufacturing and machinery because they provide the best grip for application and removal. Reverse torx are less common but are also used in automotive manufacturing.

Tightening & Loosening

Reverse torx bolts are particularly capable of handling torque. The deep-set grooves prevent slippage and stripping often encountered with flat-head or Phillips-head screws. Increased torque means that screws and bolts will hold tighter in locations with high tension and strong vibrations.

Setting the Bolt

Anyone who works on cars knows the difficulty of threading a bolt or screw in a hard-to-reach place. Torx are designed to be easier to start because they do not move on the end of the ratchet or wrench when held up to a thread. This is also a result of the deep notches.

Common Uses

The most common use of torx bolts requiring a female bit is as a wheel lock on American automobiles. Typically one of the lug nuts on each wheel is replaced with a torx bolt to prevent thieves from removing the wheel easily.

A jig ensures that when parts are made, drilled, welded or bent, they are made exactly the same way as the jig and will fit the application they were designed for. A center drill jig for tubing would be designed to ensure that when using the jig, the holes you drill will be in the center of the tubing. Two methods for accomplishing this are the drill press method and the external drill jig.

Instructions

Drill Press Jig Method

1

Place a machined V-block onto a level drill press table.

2

Insert a large bit into the drill chuck. Bring the quill handle down so the bit centers perfectly into the V-block. You might need to reposition the V-block to match the drill-bit point perfectly. Release the quill and raise the drill bit.

3

Clamp the V-block to the level drill press table. Pull the quill handle down again to visually center the drill bit into the machined V-block again. This ensures that the V-block did not move during the clamping process. Recheck to be sure the drill bit is perfectly centered in the V-block.

4

Clamp a metal stop to the end of the V-block to adjust the depth of the hole you are drilling.

5

Remove the large drill bit and replace it with the correct size bit needed to center drill the tubing.

6

Place the tubing into the V-block and against the depth stop, turn on the drill and bring the quill down to drill the hole.

External Drill Jig Method

7

Cut a piece of triple wall tubing that fits snugly over the tubing you are drilling. Cut the triple wall tubing longer than the distance between the hole and the end of the tubing to be center drilled. For example, if the hole in the tubing is to be center drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, cut the triple wall tubing to 10 inches.

8

Place the triple wall tubing into the V-block of the drill press jig and drill a 5/16-inch hole all the way through the triple wall tubing a half-inch from one end. You might need to remove the triple wall tubing from the V-block once the drill bit begins to exit the bottom of the tubing, so that the drill does not damage the V-block.

9

Insert the 5/16-inch drill bit into the portable drill and finish drilling the 5/16-inch hole through the triple wall tubing. Place a long 5/16-inch bolt through the hole and tighten a nut onto it. This bolt will be the jig stop.

10

Measure the precise distance from the bolt stop to where the center drill hole is desired. For example, if the center hole is to be drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, then measure precisely eight inches from the 5/16-inch drilled hole edge and mark that point with a prick punch.

11

Insert a 1/8-inch drill bit into the chuck on the drill press. Place the triple wall tubing into the drill press jig V-block so that the prick-punch mark aligns precisely with the drill bit point when the quill brings the drill down to meet the punch mark.

12

Clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Drill the 1/8-inch hole into the triple wall tubing. If the center hole is to go all the way through the tubing when it is drilled, then drill all the way through the triple wall tubing and stop drilling before the bit touches the V-block. Drill the remaining part of the hole with the 1/8-inch bit in the portable drill.

13

Re-clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Bring the quill down so the 1/8-inch drill bit goes through both drilled holes in the triple wall tubing. Raise the quill on the drill press and change the drill bit in the chuck to the intended drill size and enlarge the hole.

14

Clamp the triple wall tubing jig into a vise. Place the undrilled tubing into the jig until it bottoms out on the 5/16-inch bolt. Insert the proper size drill bit into the portable drill, stick the drill bit into the jig and drill the tubing. If the hole needs to go all the way through the tubing, drill into the jig from both holes in the jig. For example, drill the fist hole, stop and place the drill in the other hole, 180 degrees from the first hole.

Most people find themselves searching for their car keys from time to time. More often than not the keys are found. However, there might come a time when you simply cannot find them. When this happens, you can contact your local Pontiac dealership to request new keys for your 2006 Grand Prix.

Instructions

1

Obtain the vehicle identification number of your Grand Prix from the purchase paperwork, the inside of the drivers door, or the bottom of the left side of the windshield. Write the number down.

2

Call your local Pontiac dealership. Tell the customer service representative youve misplaced the keys to your 2006 Grand Prix and would like to obtain new ones.

3

Visit the dealership. Give the service rep your vehicle identification number. This number provides information specific to your car, such as the cut of the key and whether or not the key needs a computer chip to match your Grand Prixs computer.

4

Pay for your replacement keys. Smart keys and keyless entry fobs are more expensive than traditional car keys.

The alarm in your 2001 Grand Cherokee can be annoying if you are trying to make any kind of repair to your vehicle. This alarm is designed to be a deterrent to auto theft, but will go off during the repair process. If you want to disable the car alarm, you have a couple of options -- either removing the fuse for the alarm or removing the power supply from your alarm. When you take the power away from the alarm, you will be able to make your repair in peace.

Instructions

Disconnecting The Battery

1

Locate the hood release latch on the front of the Grand Cherokee and open the hood.

2

Locate the negative terminal on the Cherokees battery. This terminal has a -- sign next to it.

3

Loosen the terminal with a pair of channel locks.

4

Remove the terminal from the Cherokees battery to disable the car alarm.

Removing The Fuse

5

Go to the drivers side of the Cherokee and locate the fuse box to the left under the steering wheel.

6

Pry open the fuse box with your fingers.

7

Consult your user manual to get the location of the alarm fuse.

8

Remove the alarm fuse from the fuse box to disable the car alarm with the fuse puller in your fuse box.

The 1998 Chevy Silverado is built on the C/K General Motors truck platform. It is available in a number of cab configurations as well as in two-wheel drive, and four-wheel drive. All Silverados use center links to connect the steering knuckles on the front wheels. The center link uses tie rods with ball joints to connect to the steering knuckles so that it can flex with the truck. Over time the center link can break and need to be replaced.

Instructions

1

Park the truck on a level surface, in a location thats free of traffic where you have plenty of room to work around the front end. Place the truck in Park and pull the emergency brake before turning the truck off. Disconnect the black wire from the battery. Jack the front of the truck up with the car jack and lower the vehicle onto jack stands

2

Locate the center link that connects the two front steering knuckles. Use a wrench to loosen the tie rod on the right first. Unscrew the bottom cup joint by hand. Then unscrew the bottom cup joint from the left side of the center link. Pull the center link out from under the truck and use a rubber mallet to knock the cups off the balls on each end of the center link.

3

Knock the cup joints on to the balls on the new center link with the rubber mallet. Then lift the right side of the center link up and screw the right cup joint back into the tie rod by hand. Then, lift the left side and screw in the left cup joint by hand. Once the new center link is supported, use the wrench to tighten the tie rod cup joints.

4

Use the jack to lower the truck off of the jack stands. Have a friend watch the front wheels as you turn the steering wheel to make sure they both turn at the same rate. If not, then retighten the tie rods with a wrench.

Ford debuted its Mustang in 1965. Just three years later, it introduced a new engine, the so-called 302, or 5.0 liter V8 engine, a member of Fords Windsor engine family. This performance-oriented engine was available until the end of the 1970s.

History

Ford introduced the 5.0 liter, or 302-cubic-inch, engine in 1968 in anticipation of emissions standards established by the federal government in the 1970s. It remained an available engine in the Mustang until 1973. It was reinstated in 1975 and ended its run in Mustangs in 1979.

Cylinder Head to Engine Block

The bolts joining the cylinder head and the engine block require three distinct applications of torque executed in a helical sequence. The bolts require first 45 foot-pounds of torque, then 55 foot-pounds and finally 70 foot-pounds of torque. You should wait about 15 minutes between each step to allow the bolts to settle and stretch.

Other Specifications

The intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head in three stages: first to 12 foot-pounds, second to 20 foot-pounds, and third to 22 foot-pounds of torque. In 5.0 liter engines manufactured in 1969 and 1970, the rocker arm stud bolts to the cylinder head with 70 foot-pounds of torque. The valve cover bolts to the cylinder head with 4 foot-pounds of torque.

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

2

Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

3

Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

4

Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

5

Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

A torque wrench is a hand tool that has a gauge indicating specific torques being applied to a bolt or nut. They are helpful in the the construction and repair of auto engines, where specific fasteners have specific torques. Too much or too little torque may cause the engine to emit noise. Michigan Industrial Tools is one company that makes these instruments. Most torque wrenches operate in a similar manner.

Instructions

1

Check your repair manual for the specific torque of the bolt you are tightening.

2

Loosen the fastening bolt at the bottom of the wrenchs handle by turning it counter-clockwise.

3

Rotate the handle until it matches the desired torque measurement.

4

Tighten the fastening bolt by turning it clockwise to secure the handle.

5

Place the head of the torque wrench over the head of the nut. Hold the head of the wrench with one hand and the handle with the other.

6

Turn the wrench until the bolt is tightened. When it reaches the specified torque, the wrench will make an audible click and no longer tighten.

Routine Fluid Checks and Preventative Maintenance

The differential allows the drive wheels in your 2WD or 4WD car, truck or SUV to turn at different speeds. Proper lubrication of the gears is imperative for the safe and optimum performance of your vehicle. Checking the rear differential fluid every 15,000 miles for a "gummy" consistency will prevent costly repairs and can even extend the life of your drive-wheel tires.

Todays Vehicles Are Designed for Low Maintenance

Todays automobiles last longer. Technology has given them more sophisticated engineering, cleaner-burning fluids and low-maintenance designs. Frequently checking the differential fluid is unnecessary because of these advances. Checking the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits is more than adequate--with a complete fluid change at 90,000 miles.

Bottom Line

While preventative maintenance is the key to the life of your vehicle, you can avoid spending unnecessary time by simply checking the fluid during each oil change. If you have an older vehicle that is used for towing heavy loads long distances, checking the fluid every 15,000 miles or so is recommended. If you are driving a newer vehicle--one that is five years old or less--a check of the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits will suffice.

The BMW 320I was the base six-cylinder model of the 3 Series cars. The 3 Series were based on the rear-wheel drive E36 platform and were made from 1991 to 1998. The driveline is the axle that transfers power from the transmission to the rear differential. The axle uses continuous velocity joints to allow the rear axle to float on its suspension and move independently of the transmission. If the axle becomes warped or damaged then it needs to be removed for replacement. Do not attempt to repair the axle, because the torque will shatter any weld you make.

Instructions

1

Park the 320 somewhere flat and out of traffic. Make sure the emergency brake is pulled before you turn the car off. Jack up all the front end, and then lower the front end onto jack stands. Then, jack up the rear end, and support it on jack stands, as well.

2

Go underneath the 320 and find the driveline. Look for a metal tube that runs between the transmission rear and the rear differential. The tube will have two rubber boots over the continuous velocity joints. The metal flange on the bottom of the boots is what anchors the driveline to the other powertrain components.

3

Slide the car jack under the car and jack it up so it touches the transmission side of the driveline. Then, unbolt the six bolts that secure the driveline to the transmission. Do not lay directly under the driveline in case it falls off the car jack. It is heavier than it looks. Lower that end of the driveline down with the car jack and then go to the differential side.

4

Raise the car jack up so that it supports the differential end of the driveline. Then unbolt he six bolts that secure the driveline to the rear differential. Use the car jack to lower the driveline down. Pull the driveline out from under the 320. You can lower the 320 off the stands at this point but it will not be drivable until the driveline is replaced. You can push the car around if you disengage the emergency brake, though.

There are a number of different ways to upgrade and modify your vehicles exhaust system. By swapping out your cars muffler with a glass pack muffler, you can affect the noise level and performance abilities of your vehicle. You should consider all the possible side effects of altering your exhaust system before you put a glass pack muffler on your car or truck.

What is a Glass Pack?

Glass pack mufflers are designed to allow air to flow directly through the exhaust pipe and reduce back pressure. The exhaust channel of a glass pack muffler contains a fiberglass barrier, which helps muffle the exhaust noise. Glass pack mufflers do not contain baffles, which slow airflow through the muffler. Glass packs typically do not muffle as much sound as stock vehicle mufflers, so installing a glass pack will probably make your vehicles exhaust system louder.

Availibility and Cost

Glass pack mufflers are widely available from a variety of different manufacturers. In terms of exhaust modifications, glass packs are a relatively inexpensive modification. In most cases, you will be able to purchase the glass pack itself for less than $50.

Pros and Cons of Glass Packs

The main benefit of installing a glass pack is that you may be able to improve exhaust flow and reduce the amount of back pressure in your exhaust. Back pressure is created when the flow of exhaust through a muffler is restricted. Depending on the type of vehicle and engine, reducing back pressure can improve performance by allowing exhaust gases to flow out of the vehicle more quickly.

Legalities of a Glass Pack

The laws governing automobile exhaust modifications will vary, depending on the area in which you live. You should check your state and local laws before swapping out your cars muffler for an aftermarket glass pack muffler. States where emissions testing and inspections are done are the most likely to have laws affecting the modifications that can be done to an exhaust system. Failure to obey exhaust and emissions laws can lead to fines and even the loss of the ability to drive your vehicle on public roadways.

Engine cylinder barrels are bored out to a specific diameter when first manufactured. This cavity is precision-cut to fit a matching piston with piston rings. When a cylinder barrel operates correctly all of its parts create a tight chamber for combustion. However, over time the original bore in the barrel becomes warped from repeated friction, heat and cooling. Eventually, the bore loses its tight compression and the engine performance weakens. Re-boring a cylinder barrel helps improve engine performance, although the work is extremely technical.

Instructions

1

Obtain a bore gauge tool. Position the cylinder barrel on your workbench or work area so it wont move.

2

Use the bore gauge to measure the current bore from 12 oclock, 6 oclock, 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. Record these measurements.

3

Apply a honing plate to the bottom and top of the cylinder. Tighten it down with the barrel hardware and a socket torque wrench. Use the torque setting to ensure the appropriate tightness. Remeasure the bore from the same four positions as in Step 2. Write them down.

4

Compare the differences in the bore measurements to determine the change due to tightening pressure on the cylinder metal.

5

Loosen the barrel and install it on a drill press table. Secure the barrel upside down so the bore goes from the bottom to the top of the cylinder cavity when you drill. Obtain a metal bore drill bit for the new size desired based on your measured data.

6

Install the bore drill bit into the drill part of the drill press. Lock it in tight. Line up the drill bit position at dead center on the cylinder. Turn on the drill press. Lower the drill press mechanism slowly but firmly until it drills out the new bore in the cylinder. Remove the drill bit by rotating the drill bit upward again.

7

Remove the barrel and prepare it for honing and chamfering of the ports to remove the new sharp edges.

The National Pipe Tapered Thread (NPT) was created in 1864 to set a standard of measurement. An NPT pipe has a tapered male end and a threaded female end to join pipes for mechanical and hydraulic applications. Taking proper measurements of the pipe ends allow you to purchase fittings, nipples and caps that fit the pipe correctly and form a tight seal.

Instructions

1

Turn on a pair of digital calipers. Spread the large jaws apart that measure outside diameter (OD).

2

Place the jaws around the threads of a male pipe and close them until they touch the pipe. Read the digital display of the OD.

3

Measure the OD of a pipe with female (internal threads) on the end of the pipe with digital calipers.

4

Lay a pipe with male threads on a flat surface. Pull out the tip of a measuring tape and lock it in position at the 1-inch mark. Align the tape measure tip with the end of the pipe. Count the threads on the pipe in the 1-inch area. Use a pencil point to touch each thread as you count it for an accurate measurement of threads per inch (TPI).

5

Compare your OD measurements and TPI to a pipe thread size chart and choose the size closest to your measurement to obtain the nominal pipe size.

Cotter pins slide into a hole and hold two parts together. After you slide a cotter pin into a hole, you pull one or both of the pins legs on an angle to retain it in the hole. When the parts held in place with the cotter pin are used, the pin receives damage along its legs. This makes the pin difficult to remove when you need to make a repair on one or both of the parts.

Instructions

1

Straighten the bent leg(s) of the difficult cotter pin with a pair of needle nose pliers.

2

Open the jaws of the pliers. Slide the lower jaw into the eyelet opposite the straightened legs. Squeeze the handles of the pliers to close the jaws. Pull straight toward you. Twist the handles of the pliers clockwise while you pull if the cotter pin uses to release from its hole. Remove the lower jaw of the needle nose pliers from the eyelet if it will not release after twisting the handles.

3

Insert the tapered end of a cotter pin extraction tool into the eyelet. Push the handle of the tool away from you to force the cotter pin from its hole. Slide the tool further into the eyelet as the pin pulls from the hole.

4

Tap the back of the cotter pin removal tool with a hammer to persuade extremely difficult cotter pins from their hole.

The fourth generation of the 1500 series pickup truck appeared in 1988 and was manufactured until 2000 by Chevrolet. There were a total of eight different versions and cab variations of the 1500. They were powered by reliable V8 engines that required periodic service if parts like the intake manifold gasket would fail.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Mark the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor for proper reassembly. Remove the distributor. Unplug the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve and the coolant bypass hose.

2

Pull out the fuel supply and return lines from the rear part of the intake manifold. Unplug the wiring harness and brackets. Remove the throttle cable and bracket. Remove the cruise control cable.

3

Take out the transmission oil level indicator tube. Remove the EGR inlet tube, clamp and bolt. Remove the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Unscrew the air conditioning compressor. Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bracket and slide forward, but do not remove it. Lay the A/C compressor out of the way. Do not kink the air conditioning lines.

4

Remove the power brake vacuum tube and the rocker arm cover. Remove the generator rear bracket bolt. Take out the intake manifold. Remove the old pieces of gasket from the gasket surfaces. Clean the excessive carbon buildup from inside the exhaust passages and the scale and deposits from the coolant passages. Inspect the manifold for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.

Installation Procedure

5

Position the new gaskets to the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and "This Side Up" facing up. Install the lower intake manifold on the engine. Apply sealer to the lower intake manifold bolts. Put in the lower intake manifold bolts back in place. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the first step apply 27 inch pounds of torque. In the second apply 106 inch pound of torque and in the last step tighten the bolts applying 11 foot pounds of torque.

6

Plug in the wiring harness connectors and brackets. Connect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Install the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Connect the coolant bypass hose.

7

Install the EGR valve and the valve rocker arm cover. Connect the fuel supply and return lines at the rear of the intake manifold. Plug in the wiring harness and brackets. Install the cruise control cable (if equipped).

8

Install the throttle cable and bracket. Put back the transmission oil level indicator tube. Install the EGR inlet tube, clamp, and bolt. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Install the power brake vacuum tube. Install the generator and the bracket bolt (if needed). Install the air conditioning compressor and bracket. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. Connect the distributor. Note the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor made at disassembly.

Fuel problems in 2005 Honda Civic vehicles have resulted in recalls and multiple consumer complaints. If not repaired, the recalled gas tanks on these vehicles could rupture in the case of a fire, per the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Less dangerous problems include issues with the fuel injector, and a potential for burning excess gas.

Fuel Tank

In 2007, Honda recalled certain 1998-to-2007 model-year Civics due to a risk of the tanks exploding in the event of a fire. A manufacturing defect put these tanks at risk for heating unevenly, potentially preventing the pressure-relief device from ventilating the tank. To remedy the issue, authorized dealers were instructed to install a heat-insulating material in the rear seat.

Fuel Injector

Consumer complaints to NHTSA indicate that some 2005 Honda Civic hybrid owners might experience problems with the fuel injector. Due to a manufacturing problem, the cars computer might be programmed with an inappropriately low fuel-injector fuel-flow rate. Drivers affected should have received a recall notice. Repair of the problem may subsequently result in a 10-to-15 percent drop in fuel economy.

Excess Fuel Burning

The automatic choke on the 2005 Honda Civic EX might come on every time the car is started, according to consumer complaints to NHTSA. As of 2010, no recall has been issued to address this problem.

Chrysler uses its Jeep brand for its off-road and sport-utility vehicles. The 1988 Jeep models included the Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer and Wrangler. These vehicles came equipped with fuel injectors, which deliver the correct fuel-air mixture to the engine, at the correct timing. To access the fuel injectors in a 1988 Jeep, you will need to remove additional components. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all 1988-made Jeeps.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal, using a socket wrench, to prevent the battery from generating sparks. Disconnect the air cleaner and its hose. Remove the upper and lower bonnets from the throttle body.

2

Press the tabs on the electrical wire for the fuel injector and pull the wire up to disconnect it from the fuel injector. Remove the screws from the retainer clip on the fuel injector, using a socket wrench, and detach the retainer clip from the fuel injector.

3

Grab the center collar of the fuel injector between the electrical terminals with a small pair of pliers. Rock the fuel injector gently back and forth while lifting it from the injector bore of the throttle body. Ensure that you do not twist the fuel injector while removing it. Discard all of the O-rings and the centering ring from the fuel injector.

4

Apply a coating of transmission fluid to the new O-rings and install them into the injector bore of the throttle body. Place the new centering ring on top of the upper O-ring. Align the fuel injectors locating ring, with its slot on the injector housing of the throttle body. Place the fuel injector into the injector bore of the throttle body and attach the retaining clip. Fasten the screws for the retainer clip, using a socket wrench.

5

Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel injector. Attach the upper and lower bonnets to the throttle body, using a socket wrench. Install the air cleaner and connect the air cleaner house. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is used in car engines to reduce exhaust emissions. Though EGR problems are often blamed on the EGR valve, its the tube that can become clogged and will require cleaning.

How It Works

The EGR system works by allowing a small amount of exhaust to return to the combustion chamber. The gases cause a reduction in ignition temperature, which prevents the formation of NOx and other pollutants. The EGR system uses a valve that opens and closes to maintain the proper temperature.

Components

The primary component of the EGR system is the valve. Valves can be controlled either by vacuum pressure or electronics. When the gas is needed to cool combustion, the valve is opened. The exhaust gases move through the open valve and pass through a small tube or channel back to the intake manifold.

Tube Cleaning

The exhaust gases often carry small particles. These particles can become deposited inside the EGR valve or tube and clog the system causing it to fail. EGR tube cleaning simply ers to the process of cleaning this sediment from the tube. Most sediment will accumulate in the tube near the valve and can be removed with a small wire. Larger deposits will require the manifold to be removed for cleaning.

The exhaust system on a vehicle is designed to carry the burned engine gases away from the car, according to www.autoeducation.com. If there is even one exhaust leak, these gases, which include poisonous carbon monoxide, can end up seeping into the passenger area. Exhaust leaks also affect the performance of the engine because the exhaust controls the emissions. This can lead to lower gas mileage and malfunctions with a vehicles computerized system. Thats why you need to find an exhaust leak as soon as possible.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level spot and set the emergency brake. Crawl underneath the vehicle with a trouble light and a wire brush. Position yourself so you can see the exhaust system. It runs from the tailpipe up to where it disappears into the engine compartment.

2

Move the trouble light slowly up and down the exhaust as you inspect it. Look for places where black carbon has built up. This can indicate theres a hole in the pipe. Scrape away the carbon with the wire brush and look for an exhaust leak.

3

Look for rusted areas on the exhaust pipe. Moisture, salt on the roadways, and other factors can cause rust to form. The rust eats through the metal and creates leaks. Clean rust spots with the wire brush and look for holes in the metal.

4

Inspect the exhaust pipe for dents, dings and other signs of damage. These areas may indicate places where the pipe was damaged. If you drove over debris in the roadway or across a bumpy railroad crossing, for example, (especially if the vehicle sits low), the exhaust may have gotten a hole in it.

5

Inspect the joints connecting the exhaust system together, according to www.basiccarrepair.com. These are common places for a leak to occur. Make sure they are tightened together and arent rusted, or are otherwise damaged.

6

Start the vehicle and raise the hood. Listen for hisses or popping noises, according to www.aa1car.com. Look for discolored or burned paint by the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Check the sparkplug wires and the rubber boots for signs of heat damage caused by an exhaust leak.

Nissan Motors is an auto maker headquartered in Yokohama, Japan. The company has been in business since 1933 and exports vehicles all over the world. You might want to remove the Nissan emblem from your car as part of your own customizations, or if you are replacing a damaged emblem with a new one. Nissan emblems are not intended for removal and the job might require some persistence. Allow roughly 20 minutes to complete the task.

Instructions

1

Put on protective gloves and plug in the hair dryer.

2

Switch the hair dryer to its highest setting and turn it on. Point and hold it at the emblem for 10 to 15 minutes. The sustained heat will melt the glue behind the badge.

3

Turn the hair dryer off. Slide the fishing line behind the top of the badge and pull down, cutting the glue.

4

Switch the hair dryer back on and warm up the remaining glue. Scrape the rest of the glue off with your glove. If the glue cools it will be harder to remove. Apply extra heat if necessary.

5

Thoroughly wash the area when you are finished. No glue should be left behind.