Repair 7

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine while removing the cylinder head.

Put a drain pan under the radiator. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Store the coolant for later use.

Detach the shrouds for the radiator fan with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fan and clutch for the radiator as an assembly by using tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. The mounting nut for the radiator fan and clutch has a left-hand thread, so you must turn it clockwise to remove the nut.

Label the electrical wiring on the alternator so you can connect it correctly later and detach the wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the bolts for the alternator and vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove these components from the engine block.

Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and valley cover from the engine block.

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench. Disconnect the clamp and mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Detach the oil dipstick tube from the cylinder head and lower the vehicle.

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench and remove the rocker arms from the engine block. Record the position of each push rod, so you can re-install them correctly later. Remove the push rods from the engine block.

Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install lifting eyes on each end of the cylinder block with tool T70P-6000.

Lift the cylinder head from the engine block with the lifting eyes. Use caution to prevent the pre-chambers of the cylinder head from falling onto the engine when you remove the cylinder head.

Jack up the front of the RX-7. Place the jack under the front jack point of the RX-7. This is located behind radiator.

Place jack stands under the frame of the vehicle and lower the RX-7 onto the jack stands.

Unplug the electrical wiring running to the O2 sensor on the catalytic converter.

Remove the catalytic converter to exhaust tubing bolts with a socket wrench.

Remove the catalytic converter to manifold bolts with a socket wrench.

Separate the catalytic converter from both sides of the exhaust. You may need to use a flat head screwdriver to pry the mating surfaces apart.

Insert and partly turn the key, to engage the Ford electrical panel. Look over the fuel gauge and make a note if there is not enough diesel in the tank to start the engine. Low fuel prevents an engine from starting.

Replace the fuel in the tank with the proper diesel. Changing diesel according to the season is imperative. Summer diesel will be cloudy in the winter -- this is the presence of condensation in the tank.

Use a siphon hose to remove the diesel from the tank. Put one end of the siphon pump into the fuel tank and then put the other end of the siphon pump into an empty gas container. Pump the siphon until the tank is empty. Fill the tank with the proper kind of diesel fuel.

Raise your 7.3-liter Ford with a jack, so you can get under the vehicle. Look for the small box next to the engine block on the right side of the vehicle. This is the starter. Get a helper to turn the ignition. Listen to the starter while the ignition is cranking. If you hear a clicking or a buzzing noise, have the starter replaced by a certified technician.

Look around the Ford for any leaks. Leaks can inhibit the car from starting properly. If you do find leaks, have the vehicle towed, or drive it to a service shop to have the leaked repaired.

Turn the key to the "On" position. If the key turns on the gauges, check your fuel level. Add gas to the truck to get it started. If the gauges do not turn on, you have a problem with your battery.

Open the trucks hood to gain access to the battery. Connect the positive and negative leads from your jumper cable to the positive and negative terminals on your battery.

Connect the positive and negative leads from your jumper cables to the positive and negative leads on a different cars battery.

Start the other car and then start your truck. Allow the trucks battery to charge for five minutes. Turn the truck off.

Restart the truck. If the truck does not restart, replace the battery with a new one.

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the valve cover with a socket wrench and remove the valve cover. Detach the wiring harnesses from the fuel injectors.

Disconnect the oil rail drain plugs and fuel rail drain plugs with a socket wrench. Disconnect the oil deflector by removing its retaining screw.

Remove the mounting bolt on the outboard side of the fuel injector with a socket wrench. Disconnect the retaining hardware from the heater distribution box, including the screws, nuts and clips. Remove the heater distribution box.

Connect the injector remover no. T94T-9000-AH1 to the fuel injector plate with the injector removers screw. Tighten the screw to lift the fuel injector from the injector bore. Discard the copper washers for the fuel injector.

Clean the injector bore with the rotunda injector sleeve brush and a shop towel. Mount a new copper washer to the new fuel injector and coat the fuel injector with engine oil to lubricate it.

Place the fuel injectors into the injector bore and ensure that you properly seat the O-rings. Position the injector replacer No. T94T-9000-AH2 between the fuel injector and its hold-down plate. Tighten the bolt on the injector replacer to fully seat the fuel injector into the injector bore.

Perform steps one through three in reverse order to complete the fuel injector replacement. Torque the retaining screw on the oil deflector to 108 inch-pounds with a torque wrench. Torque the fuel rail drain plugs to 96 inch-pounds and torque the oil rail drain plugs to 53 inch-pounds.