Repair 7

The FE, or Ford-Edsel, family of Ford engines included some of Fords biggest powerhouses, including the 360, 390, 427, and 428 big blocks. Identifying the cylinder heads on these engines requires a combination of identification techniques, beginning with locating the casting number.

Casting Numbers

FE cylinder head casting numbers are stamped directly on the top of the head itself. On the passenger side, they are between cylinders two and three- driver side numbers are between cylinders six and seven. Casting number C9XX was manufactured in 1969. "C" represents the 1960s ("D" for the 1970s, and so on), "9" is the decade year followed by vehicle model and engineering codes. A Ford parts department may be able to further help you determine each characters meaning.

Differences

The heads of the 428 Cobra Jet, the 390 High-Performance, the 390 GT and the 427 need further identification differentiation. The Cobra Jet has larger ports than both 390s and has either vertical or diagonal exhaust manifold bolts. The 390 High-Performance head has larger ports than the 390 GT. The 427 head can have low, medium or high riser lengths.

Other Considerations

Most FE heads are interchangeable. Modifications are done for performance reasons, and performance specifications differentiate most FE-series heads. As no one identification method positively identifies one from another, its generally necessary to measure ports, risers and valve sizes for cross-erence.

The Ford Probe was a sport coupe manufactured from 1989 to 1997, with the second generation of this series beginning in 1993. The GT trim level was a sportier version of the base model, and included a six-cylinder 2.5-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. This type of engine requires a timing belt to synchronize the movement of the camshafts and crankshafts. The timing belt in a 1993 Ford Probe requires replacement approximately every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Support the engine with a floor jack and remove the mounting bolts on the right engine mount. Disconnect the engine mount and detach the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket must align with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must align with the timing marks on the cylinder head.

3

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place to avoid stripping the threads on the mounting bolts when you remove them. Disconnect the lower mounting bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench first, then disconnect the upper mounting bolt. Remove the mounting bolts on the number 1 idler pulley and remove the pulley. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Insert a tool handle of appropriate size into one of the camshaft sprocket holes to hold it in place. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

5

Shift your transmission into fourth gear and set the parking brake if your vehicle has manual transmission. Disconnect the dust cover for the flywheel with a socket wrench, and install a locking tool onto the flywheel if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket.

6

Align the dowel on the right camshaft with the slot on the right camshaft sprocket Installed the sprocket onto the camshaft and hold the sprocket in place. Fasten the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket and tighten it to between 35 and 48 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Repeat this step to install the left camshaft sprocket.

7

Align the key way on the crankshaft with the timing mark on the oil pump and install the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft sprocket to between 116 and 122 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Hold the timing belt tensioner in place with a vertical press and push the adjuster rod into its hole to align the hole on the piston with the second hole on the case of the timing belt tensioner. Place a metal pin with a diameter of 0.063 in. into the second hole on the timing belt case to hold the piston in place.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, if necessary. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to move the sprocket back by one tooth.

10

Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, number two idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, timing belt tensioner pulley and right camshaft sprocket in that order. Apply pressure to the timing belt to hold it in place, and install the number one idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolt for the pulley to between 28 and 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Install the timing belt tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to between 14 and 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the pin from the timing belt case. Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to align the timing marks again.

12

Adjust the timing belt tensioner so that the deflection of the timing belt between the crankshaft and timing belt tensioner is 0.24 to 0.31 inches.

13

Connect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench, and install the right engine mount. Tighten the nuts for the engine mount to between 55 and 77 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the through bolt to between 63 in 86 foot-pounds. Lower the floor jacks supporting the engine, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

For 2000 Ford F-250 trucks, the horns are mounted behind the radiator grille. Removing the horns requires detaching one retaining bolt. An electrical connector also links the horns themselves to the horn pad inside the vehicle.

Replacement

Generally, car horns are not off-the-shelf items. To obtain a replacement, a F-250 owner would need to order through a dealership or an online retailer. The mechanical replacement process should only take a few minutes. Once the F-250s hood is opened, the horn can be located behind the grille. After the wiring is disconnected, only one bolt needs removal.

The Steering Wheel

The F-250s horn can be sounded by pressing a component on the steering wheel. The horn also has components within the steering wheel, and getting to them requires partially dismantling the steering wheel itself. The horns electrical connections and wiring are near the airbag module. For reasons of safety, the F-250s airbag system should be disarmed before attempting to dismantle the steering wheel.

Disarming the Air Bags

Disarming the F-250s air bag system requires opening the trucks hood. Remove the negative cable from the batterys negative terminal. Then, remove the positive cable from the positive terminal. Wait five minutes or more. The F-250 will have residual power within the vehicle. It needs to drain out or the air bags could still deploy.

Ford and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) announced a 2005 recall of 199,942 vehicles due to windshield wiper problems. Registered vehicle owners affected by the recall should have received instruction on where to bring the vehicles for inspection and free repair.

Defect and Affected Models

The windshield wiper recall affected Ford E-150, E-250, E-350, E-450, Escape, Expedition, Explorer, F-150, Ranger and Taurus; Lincoln Mark LT and Navigator; and Mercury Mariner and Mountaineer vehicles from the 2006 model year. On affected Fords, the manufacturing process may have occurred without the application of grease to the windshield wiper motors output shaft gear.

Risk

Per the NHTSA, the lack of grease application in the manufacturing process could cause the gear to distort or fracture during operation after a period of continuous use on the high speed setting. If the wipers were to fail in inclement weather, impaired visibility could cause an accident.

Remedy

Ford charged authorized dealers with inspecting the wiper motor and greasing the wiper motor gears if necessary. Concerned Ford owners may contact the NHTSA or visit the NHTSA website to determine whether their vehicle might have been part of this or other recalls.

Signs that indicate the need to replace a heater core include coolant in the floor area of the Ford Aerostar, and greasy film at the bottom of the windshield. If not replaced, windows will begin to fog and floor boards will begin to rust, which could lead to overheating due to loss of antifreeze. Replacing the heater core in the Ford Aerostar takes a couple of tools and a few of hours to complete.

Instructions

Replacing the Heater Core

1

Open the valve at the bottom of the radiator by removing the radiator cap to drain the cooling system. Always drain the coolant into a container that can be sealed and reused if its not several years old. When draining the coolant, remember animals are attracted to antifreeze, and will drink any that is left in an open container or on the ground. This will make pets sick and could be fatal.

2

Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core using tool T85T-18539-AH, to compress the couplers. The T85T-18539-AH tool or a comparable tool is available at most auto-parts stores; some auto parts stores offer the borrowing or rental of tools. The heater hoses connect to the heater core tubes on the fire wall passenger side of the engine compartment. Plug the heater hoses with small pieces of a rag to stop any coolant loss while removing the heater core.

3

While working in the passenger compartment, lay an old towel on the floorboard in case any coolant spills. Remove the six screws holding the heater core access door to the blower assembly; remove the access door. Depress the retainer clips at the top of the heater core and pull the heater core toward the bottom of the passenger seat, removing it from the blower assembly.

4

Remove the new heater core from the manufacturers box. Make sure it matches the old one. Position the new heater core caully into the blower assembly, snapping the top of the heater core into the retainer clips. Install the heater core access door to the blower assembly with the six screws that were removed.

5

Reconnect the heater hoses to the new heater core tubes inside the engine compartment. Push on the heater hose coupler until it locks. Tighten the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant. Start the Ford Aerostar, leaving the radiator cap off and turning the heater on high. Watch for coolant level to drop in the radiator, then turn the ignition off. Top off with coolant and replace the radiator cap.

6

This is a good time to check for leaks. Start the vehicle and let it warm up with the heater on high. While waiting for the vehicle to warm up, drain the coolant from the old heater core into a suitable container. Check for leaks at the hose connections and under the dash on the passenger side. If there are no leaks, discard the old heater core and towel from the passenger floorboard.

Knowing how to safely lift any vehicle and support it onto jack stands is important, no matter what make or model the vehicle is. The Ford Taurus is no exception. If lifting one axle on the Taurus (front or rear), a single set of jack stands will be required. If lifting both axles, you will need two sets of stands. In addition, while the factory-supplied scissor jacks for emergency roadside repair will safely lift the Taurus, a better and safer option would be using a hydraulic floor jack.

Instructions

1

Place the two wheel chocks against the front and rear of a tire (doesnt matter which one) on the opposite axle from which the Taurus is being lifted first (if raising both axles).

2

Place the block of wood on the cradle of the floor jack and align it beneath the rocker panel seam of the Ford Taurus (front or rear). The wood block will help prevent bending or damaging the rocker panel seam Turn the handle of the jack clockwise as far as it will go to activate the hydraulic lift.

3

Pump the handle to raise the cradle and block of wood, making sure the alignment of the wood and cradle is centered to the rocker panel seam before contacting it.

4

Continue to pump the jack handle until the corner of the Taurus is elevated high enough to allow the jack stand to be placed under it. For front axle, place the jack stand(s) under the front frame rail (about 10 inches in from the rocker panel seam) of the Taurus. Theres one frame rail each for drivers and passengers sides, but the rail only runs about half the length of the Ford Taurus, so using the rail for rear axle support is not an option. For the rear axle support, place the jack stand(s) near the jack under the rocker panel seam.

5

Turn the handle of the jack counterclockwise slowly to release the hydraulic tension on the jack and allow the Taurus to slowly lower and contact the arm of the jack stand. Be sure the alignment of the arm of the stand is located directly beneath the front frame rail or rear rocker panel seam respectively.

6

Repeat the procedure for the opposite side of the same axle using the jack and the block of wood. If lifting all four corners, lift the opposite axle and support it onto jack stands (one side at a time) after one axle is secured onto jack stands.

Casting numbers are a unique stamp on the engine parts to tell when a part was originally designed and what car it was originally designed for. This does not mean that the part was not used on other cars. Most casting numbers are stamped into the part itself; others have the number molded on the part. Some casting numbers can be ink-stamped while others are printed on paper, which is then wrapped around the part.

Instructions

1

Identify which type of Ford Falcon engine you have by looking in the owners manual. There are two casting types for this make of engine, the 221 and the 260.

2

Look near the rear of the engine block, under the intake manifold, for the casting number on a 221 engine. 221 casting numbers are: C2OE-6069-A, B, C, D OR E

C3OE-6069-A.

3

Locate the casting number for a 260 engine under the right side cylinder bank near the rear of the engine block. 260 casting numbers are: C2OE-6069-F, C3OE-6069-B, C4OE-6069-B.

The orifice tube on a Ford truck is a hard debris filter for the air conditioning system. If a component in the system fails, the orifice tube prevents the debris from the failure from spreading throughout the system.

Location

The orifice tube resides in the liquid line between the receiver/dryer and the evaporator. The liquid line brings rigerant into the evaporator, the component that removes heat from the air in the passenger compartment.

Purpose

The rigerant flows through the AC system, outward from the AC compressor, through the manifold hose, condenser, receiver/dryer and evaporator before returning to the compressor.

Purpose

When performing a full AC system inspection, after evacuating the system with a rigerant service machine, remove the orifice tube and visually inspect it. If you note any signs of debris in the line, the AC compressor is most likely coming apart inside and requires replacement.

A wide variety of Ford vehicles come with a program, controlled by the vehicles computer, whose function is to reduce the vehicle to minimal performance standards, in the case of a vehicle component being at risk of failure. This programs informal name is a "limp mode."

Benefits

Limp mode engages when a vehicle sensor indicates that a vital component is not working properly. By modifying the vehicles acceleration and shifting capabilities, limp mode allows drivers to navigate their Ford vehicles home, or to a nearby service station. By allowing the vehicle to continue with limited operation capability, limp mode helps eliminate the cost of towing and dangers of roadside breakdowns.

Solutions

Once a Ford vehicle has begun to operate in limp mode, a driver can rectify its malfunction by taking the vehicle to a mechanic who has the ability to plug into the vehicles diagnostic port and read any problem codes put out by the vehicles computer. After diagnosing the issue and repairing the vehicle, the mechanic will be able to reset the limp mode program.

Warning

Ford vehicles operating in limp mode will not perform according to their normal standards and will be slow to accelerate and maintain speed. Use caution while driving a vehicle in limp mode to avoid causing a traffic hazard and seek assistance to remedy the vehicles performance problems as soon as possible.

The 1993 Ford Mustang is a third generation of the car, which was in production from 1979 to 1993. The procedure for replacing the ignition coil in a 93 Mustang depends primarily on the engine. The engine is typically an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter Windsor engine. The ignition coil converts the 12 volts from the battery into the thousands of volts the spark plugs need to produce a spark. The ignition coil in a 1993 Mustang is located on the front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

2

Disconnect the connector for the electrical harness on the ignition coil. Depress the locking tabs on the spark plug wires to detach the wires from the spark plug boot of the ignition coil.

3

Remove the mounting screws for the ignition coil with a socket wrench. Disconnect the ignition coil from the engine.

4

Install the new ignition coil and tighten its retaining screws to between 40 and 62 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Apply dielectric compound into the spark plug boots to maximize the electrical contact between the wires and boots. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plug boot on the ignition coil.

5

Attach the electrical connector for the ignition coils wiring harness. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The water pump in the 1998 Ford Explorer is located on the front of the engine block by the cooling fan. It circulates coolant through the block to prevent the engine from overheating during its operation. The primary symptom of a faulty water pump is a continually increasing engine temperature, even with the proper amount of coolant. A malfunctioning water pump causes excessive wear to the engine and may eventually damage the engine permanently.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Position a drain pan under the radiator and open the radiator drain. Replace the plug after the coolant is completely drained from the radiator.

2

Disconnect the cooling fan shroud with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting bolts for the cooling fan. Remove the cooling fan assembly. Disconnect the accessory drive belt.

3

Detach the water bypass hose and heater hose from the water pump. Disconnect the brackets for the wiring harness of the engine control sensor, and push the wiring harness out of the way. Remove the attaching bolts for the water pump pulley with a socket wrench and disconnect the pulley.

4

Remove the attaching bolts for the water pump. Record the position of each bolt since they have different lengths. Detach the pump from the front engine cover. Disconnect the radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the pump from the vehicle and discard its gasket.

5

Clean the mounting surfaces of the pump and front engine cover with a shop towel. Apply a layer of gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket. Mount the gasket onto the water pump.

6

Connect the radiator hose to the new pump. Install the pump and place the mounting bolts in the correct holes that you recorded earlier. Torque the mounting bolts to between 15 and 21 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Complete the installation of the water pump by performing steps two and three in reverse order.

7

Refill the cooling system with coolant and reattach the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

Cylinders are cut from the engine block to house the pistons and handle rapid piston movement. Ford offers 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines of different sizes, cylinder numbering and firing order. Variations on traditional cylinder-numbering occur on front-wheel drive engines.

V8 And V6 Numbering

All Ford engines follow the same cylinder numbering system. While facing the front of a V8, starting on your left, the cylinder closest to the fan is number 1. cylinders 2, 3 and 4 follow in order. On the right side, cylinder 5 is closest to the fan and the remainder follow in order. V6 engines follow the same pattern, with only 6 cylinders.

Inline 6 and 4-Cylinder Numbering

On both inline (straight) 6-cylinder and 4-cylinder engines, when looking at the engine from the front, the cylinder closest to the fan is cylinder 1, with the remaining following in order towards the rear of the engine..

Front-Wheel Drive Numbering

Front-wheel drive engines have a side-to-side engine orientation, which changes the cylinder locations. On front-wheel drive V8s, while looking at the engine from the front, the row of cylinders nearest the windshield begin with cylinder one to the left and follow in order to the right. Cylinder 5 is on the front left-hand side, with 6, 7 and 8 going towards the right. V6 engines follow the same pattern. Ford 4-cylinder front-wheel drive engines start with cylinder 1 on the far left when facing the engine.

The Ford Expedition is a full-sized SUV produced by Ford as a replacement for the Bronco. The 99 Ford Expedition is a part of the vehicles first design generation. The heater core is located behind the dash board on the passengers side. While the heater core is being replaced it is a good idea to check the temperature blend door as well. Replacing the heater core is an involved project that requires most of a day.

Instructions

1

Park the Expedition on a level surface and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Prop the hood open with the hood support.

2

Disconnect the bulkhead connectors at the back of the engine compartment and push them into the vehicle.

3

Pull down on the steering column panel and remove it. Remove the five bolts under the steering column panel with a socket wrench. There are two on both sides and one in the middle at the bottom.

4

Remove the bolts along the top of the dash, just under the windshield. Remove the bolts under the carpet, along the back of the passengers foot well.

5

Open the glove box and pull out enough that the clips pop free and the glove box stays open. Remove the two bolts holding the passenger airbag. Pull off the oval cover above the glove box and remove the bolt underneath. Remove the passenger airbag.

6

From outside, disconnect the evaporator case sample tub and the blower motor. These can be reached from the engine compartment, just in front of the passenger side door.

7

Reach inside the passenger fender well and disconnect the antenna lead. Push it through the firewall.

8

Remove the bolt in the rear corner of the passenger foot well. Grab the dash board on both sides and pull forward. This will usually require two people. Pull the dash board forward far enough to allow access to the heater core.

9

Remove the 14 bolts around the plentum case. Open the case and remove the two bolts that secure the heater core in place. Disconnect the tubes attached to the heater core with the quick disconnects. Remove the heater core from the vehicle.

10

Put the new heater core in the SUV and tighten the mounting bolts. Attach the hoses and push them on until the clamps snap closed. Close the plentum case and tighten all of the bolts.

11

Reassemble the dash board in the reverse order it was disassembled. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Close the hood.

The lineup of 1997 Ford SUVs included the Expedition and Explorer, which were both part of the recall Ford Motor Company issued involving more than 13 million Ford trucks and SUVs because of tire problems. The 1997 Explorer had an additional 11 recalls, while the 1997 Expedition had eight additional recalls.

Tire Recall

1997 Ford SUV saw the largest recall for Ford vehicles in several years. More than 13 million Ford vehicles were recalled because of a defect in the Firestone tires that came with the them. The Firestone Wilderness brand tires had problems with the tires separating, causing the tires to fail while driving. If the tires failed at highway speeds, the possibility of an accident occurring were greatly increased, and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) had several reports concerning accidents caused by this tire defect.

Expedition Recalls

The 1997 Ford Expedition saw an additional eight recalls besides the tire recall. Three of the recalls were for exterior-lighting problems. Two of the exterior lighting recalls dealt with improper illumination from the lectors, while the other exterior lighting problem dealt with the daytime running lights (DRL), which illuminated too brightly, affecting oncoming drivers of other vehicles. More than 1.5 million Expeditions and other Ford vehicles were also recalled because of lug-nut problems. The lug nuts installed on these SUVs did not clamp down tight enough, causing movement in the tires during operation. About 500,000 Ford vehicles, including the Expedition, were recalled because of trailer-hitch problems, and almost 900,000 vehicles were recalled because of transmission problems. Another recall dealt with the rear suspension weld, which was missing from the axle track bar, causing the bar to separate from the SUV. The eighth recall was for a problem found in the gear-box shaft. The intermediate yoke of the gear shift was separating from the input shaft of the gear box, preventing the driver from shifting gears.

Explorer Recalls

The 1997 Explorer had 12 different recalls. One dealt with the massive recall of Ford SUVs and trucks because of the Firestone tires, but second tire recall was issued for the 1997 Ford Explorer for additional tire problems. It involved defective manufacturing of a Firestone tire that was produced at a different plant than the original recalled tire. Four were because of exterior-lighting issues concerning the lectors and daytime running lights, which did not meet safety standards. Four Explorer recalls were because of defects in the speed controls. A cruise control cable was affecting the pulley on the speed control, preventing the speed control from disengaging. Another recall was because a grounding cable was attached to the fuel line. When the Explorer was jump-started with jumper cables, it damaged the fuel line, causing the line to leak gasoline. The other recall dealt with a problem with the front suspension. The sway bar was breaking loose or fracturing for unknown reasons. More than 800,000 Ford vehicles were recalled for this defect, including the 1997 Ford Explorer.

Fords 2002 Rangers come equipped with an instrument cluster that displays operational information gauges such as vehicle speed, engine rpm and transmission gear selection, as well as critical performance information gauges such as fuel status, engine coolant temperature, oil pressure and battery charge state. Additional information is indicated on the Rangers instrument cluster by warning lights that illuminate as needed. The gauges are backlit for visibility during low light situations by a series of small light bulbs. Replace burned out bulbs to maintain instrument visibility.

Instructions

Removal

1

Remove the negative battery cable from the battery using a wrench.

2

Remove the two center instrument panel screws from below the radio. Pull the center instrument panel from the console. Disconnect the electrical connectors and unplug the radio antennae lead from the radio. Set the center instrument panel aside.

3

Lift up on the hood release lever and remove the two bolts. Set the hood release lever aside.

4

Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column panel below the steering column. Remove the panel.

5

Remove the two steering column cover reinforcement bracket screws. Set the bracket aside.

6

Remove the three upper and two lower instrument cluster finish panel screws. Pull the finish panel away from the instrument cluster, unplug the electrical connectors and set the finish panel aside.

7

Remove the four instrument cluster screws. Pull the instrument cluster out slightly. Unplug the two electrical connectors and pull the automatic transmission indicator out of the instrument cluster, if applicable. Remove the instrument cluster.

8

Locate the socket of a burned-out bulb. Rotate the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it out of the cluster. Remove the bad bulb from the socket.

Installation

9

Insert the new bulb into the socket. Insert the socket into the instrument panel and rotate clockwise to lock it in position.

10

Install the automatic transmission indicator and reconnect the electrical connectors to the instrument cluster. Insert the instrument cluster in the dash and install the four instrument cluster screws using a nut-driver.

11

Connect the electrical connectors to the instrument cluster finish panel. Place the finish panel in position and install the five screws. Tighten the finish panel screws to 18 to 26 inch-pounds.

12

Install the steering column cover reinforcement bracket and screws. Tighten the bracket screws to 89 to 124 inch-pounds.

13

Install the steering column panel and screws. Tighten the panel screws to 18 to 26 inch-pounds.

14

Install the hood release lever and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 to 33 inch-pounds.

15

Connect the center instrument panel electrical connectors and the radio antennae lead. Insert the center instrument console into the dash. Install the two center instrument panel screws. Tighten the screws to 18 to 26 inch-pounds.

16

Install the negative battery cable on the battery and tighten to 62 to 89 inch-pounds.

International Harvester manufactured the 7.3-liter diesel engines that appear in Ford trucks from 1988 to 1992. This engine is most common in Ford trucks with a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The 7.3-liter Ford diesel engine uses a single cylinder head for all eight cylinders in the engine. The cylinder head is on top of the engine block and is part of the combustion chamber. The procedure for removing the cylinder head from a 7.3-liter engine is the same for all Ford trucks.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine while removing the cylinder head.

2

Put a drain pan under the radiator. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Store the coolant for later use.

3

Detach the shrouds for the radiator fan with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fan and clutch for the radiator as an assembly by using tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. The mounting nut for the radiator fan and clutch has a left-hand thread, so you must turn it clockwise to remove the nut.

4

Label the electrical wiring on the alternator so you can connect it correctly later and detach the wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the bolts for the alternator and vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove these components from the engine block.

5

Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and valley cover from the engine block.

6

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench. Disconnect the clamp and mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Detach the oil dipstick tube from the cylinder head and lower the vehicle.

7

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench and remove the rocker arms from the engine block. Record the position of each push rod, so you can re-install them correctly later. Remove the push rods from the engine block.

8

Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install lifting eyes on each end of the cylinder block with tool T70P-6000.

9

Lift the cylinder head from the engine block with the lifting eyes. Use caution to prevent the pre-chambers of the cylinder head from falling onto the engine when you remove the cylinder head.

Ford uses halogen light bulbs housed within a headlamp assembly for forward illumination on the 2003 F-150 model vehicles. The bulb plugs into the headlamp assembly and is held in place by a headlamp bulb retainer, which serves to seal and isolate the headlamp assembly from the atmosphere. Over time, the filaments within the bulb can break due to vibration. Replace the bulb without the benefit of tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Turn the ignition and headlamp switches to the Off position. Raise the hood.

2

Locate the two headlamp housing retainer tabs inside the engine compartment just behind and above the headlamp housing assembly. Pull the tabs slightly toward the rear of the vehicle and pull up on them to release the headlamp housing assembly.

3

Separate the headlamp housing from the front of the vehicle to expose the headlamp electrical connector on the back. Squeeze the locking tabs on the side of the electrical connector and unplug the connector from the headlamp bulb. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.

4

Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise to unsnap it from the headlamp housing. Remove the headlamp bulb retainer. Grasp the headlamp bulb and pull it out of the headlamp housing.

Installation

5

Insert the new headlamp bulb into the headlamp housing with the flat side of the bulb connector facing up.

6

Install the headlamp bulb retainer into the back of the headlamp housing and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into place. Plug the headlamp electrical connector into the headlamp bulb and push it on until the connector snaps in position.

7

Guide the headlamp housing into position. Ensure that the headlamp assembly is aligned properly with the alignment pins on the back of the housing, inserted in the holes in the body and engaged with the reinforcement ribs around the edge of the headlamp housing recess. Push down on the headlamp housing retainer tabs until they snap into position.

The Ford Explorer is an SUV manufactured by the Ford Motor Company since 1990. It was introduced as a replacement for the Ford Bronco II. The Ford Explorer brake lights provide an essential contribution to the safety of the vehicle. If they burn out, they should be replaced immediately. Troubleshooting the brake lights is a simple procedure that only requires a few tools.

Instructions

Wiring Check

1

Turn off the engine of the Explorer. Open the rear door.

2

Use the screwdriver to unfasten the two screws behind the taillight assembly.

3

Remove the assembly from the vehicle. Check the electrical connection. Plug it in firmly. If the lights are still not working, there may be a problem with the bulb.

Bulb Replacement

4

Remove the socket from the taillight assembly.

5

Pull the bulb straight out. Use a paper towel to firmly push in the replacement bulb.

6

Place the taillight assembly back into the vehicle.

7

Reinstall the two screws, and close the rear door. If the lights still do not work, there may be an issue with the brake light fuses.

Fuse Replacement

8

Open the drivers side door of the Explorer.

9

Open the fuse block, located on the left side of the instrument panel.

10

Remove the fuse block cover, and locate the fuses numbered "3" and "7." If they are broken, pull them out with your hand.

11

Replace the fuses with a fuse of identical amperage.

12

Close the fuse block, and close the drivers side door.

The Ford Econoline is a series of full-size passenger and cargo vans. The F-150 designation indicates the vehicle has a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The most common engine in a 1989 Ford Econoline F-150 is an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter engine. The oil pump on this engine is located on top of the engine near the front.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine. Detach the inlet tube from the oil pump and disconnect the screen assembly.

2

Remove the mounting bolts from the oil pump with a socket wrench. Pull the oil pump drive shaft from the body of the oil pump. Disconnect the oil pump assembly from the distributor socket and discard its gasket.

3

Fill the inlet and outlet ports of the new oil pump with engine oil and turn the oil pump drive shaft to distribute the oil through the pump. Align the oil pump drive shaft with the distributor shaft by rotating the oil pump drive shaft as required. Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor socket. Position the new gasket on the pump body and insert the oil pump drive shaft into the pump body.

4

Connect the mounting bolts to the oil pump and tighten them to between 22 and 32 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Install the screen assembly for the oil pump with a socket wrench and attach the inlet tube for the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the attaching bolts with a socket wrench.

The 1999 Ford F-250 is a diesel truck that many people use to haul heavy items with good fuel economy. If your F-250 is having a hard time starting, there are a few things that you can do before you get it towed to a repair shop. You dont have to be a car mechanic to get your diesel working again. You can do it yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of truck repair.

Instructions

1

Insert your key into the F-250s ignition and then try to start the truck. Check the electrical panel on the dashboard. Look at the battery meter and the gas gauge on the dashboard. If your truck does not have enough gas to start, fill the tank with diesel.

2

Use the applicable fuel for the truck. If you are using winter diesel in the summer, you will need to change the fuel. Summer diesel should not be used in the winter. Use a siphon to pump the gas out of the trucks gas tank.

3

Insert one end of the hose into the gas tank. Insert the other end into an empty container. Pump the siphon hose to siphon the gas out of the tank and into the container. Fill the gas tank with the applicable diesel.

4

Check the battery connections to the battery if your gauge indicated that there was a low charge. Open the hood and locate the battery next to the engine. Make sure that the battery connections are properly connected to the terminals. The red cable should be on the positive (+) terminal and the black cable should be on the negative terminal (-). Use a pair of channel locks to secure the connections.

5

Place the terminal leads of the voltmeter to your batterys connections. The diesel truck uses a 12-volt battery. You should get an 11 to 12 volt reading on the voltmeters display. If you dont get an 11 to 12 volt reading from the voltmeter, replace the battery.

6

Jack the front end of the truck up with a jack and then locate the small black box on the bottom of the engine. This is the starter. Have a friend turn the ignition and listen to the starter. If you hear buzzing or clicking coming from the starter, you need to have it replaced by a certified technician.