Repair 7

The FE, or Ford-Edsel, family of Ford engines included some of Fords biggest powerhouses, including the 360, 390, 427, and 428 big blocks. Identifying the cylinder heads on these engines requires a combination of identification techniques, beginning with locating the casting number.

Casting Numbers

FE cylinder head casting numbers are stamped directly on the top of the head itself. On the passenger side, they are between cylinders two and three- driver side numbers are between cylinders six and seven. Casting number C9XX was manufactured in 1969. "C" represents the 1960s ("D" for the 1970s, and so on), "9" is the decade year followed by vehicle model and engineering codes. A Ford parts department may be able to further help you determine each characters meaning.

Differences

The heads of the 428 Cobra Jet, the 390 High-Performance, the 390 GT and the 427 need further identification differentiation. The Cobra Jet has larger ports than both 390s and has either vertical or diagonal exhaust manifold bolts. The 390 High-Performance head has larger ports than the 390 GT. The 427 head can have low, medium or high riser lengths.

Other Considerations

Most FE heads are interchangeable. Modifications are done for performance reasons, and performance specifications differentiate most FE-series heads. As no one identification method positively identifies one from another, its generally necessary to measure ports, risers and valve sizes for cross-erence.

Hydraulic cylinders are found in automobiles, boats and other large equipment. Hydraulic oil or another pressurized fluid powers the cylinder and forces a piston located inside a barrel to move back and forth. The inner diameter of the barrel, where the piston moves, is known as the bore, and is a critical measure for the operation of the hydraulic cylinder. The lifting force of a cylinder is based on the size of the bore diameter multiplied by the hydraulic pressure. Measure the bore of a hydraulic cylinder to help calculate generated force.

Instructions

1

Disassemble the cylinder so that the bore is accessible. The exact procedure depends on the type of hydraulic cylinder. Clean any fluid from inside.

2

Twist the ratchet on the end of the telescopic bore gauge until the anvil and head are slightly larger than the opening in the bore.

3

Place the opened anvil and head against the bores opening at a gentle angle. Slowly straighten the bore gauge until the base of the instrument stands vertical and the head and anvil touch opposite sides of the bore wall. Rock the gauge gently in the bore to lock the anvil in place.

4

Remove the telescopic bore gauge from the bore. Measure the distance between the head and anvil with a micrometer or caliper to determine the diameter of the bore.

Cylinder head valves are a critical component of an engine. These valves regulate the intake of the fuel air mixture from the fuel system and the exhaust from the combustion process.

Cylinder Head Valves

The valves themselves are simple parts. Machined out of a single piece of steel, they resemble long rods that flare out at the bottom into a long circular base. Each cylinder in an engine has a minimum of two. One for intake and one for exhaust.

The Valve Train

The cylinder valves are operated by the valve train. The valve train is a series of lifters, roller rocker arms, rods, springs and a cam shaft. The cam shaft turns and oval lobes push the rods up, tilting the rocker arms which push the valve open. As the cam shaft continues to turn, springs on the valve and rods return to their original position and the valve closes.

Cylinder Valve Adjustment

Every maker and model of engines, has its own requirements for adjusting or repairing valves. Special tools to compress valve springs and adjust lash are required. Aftermarket tools and valve trains are a big part of the engine-building community.

The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup truck that has been in production since 1998. It is available with several types of V-6 and V-8 engines, which have a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket varies slightly, depending on which cylinder head you must remove. These procedures are generally the same for the 4.3-liter, 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines in the 2000 Chevrolet pickup.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable using the socket wrench. Detach the bleed pipe for the coolant from the right cylinder head. Disconnect the intake manifold and remove the push rods from the engine. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

2

Remove the mounting bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the alternator bracket that is behind the power steering pump, and push the bracket aside with the alternator still attached.

3

Disconnect the bolt that attaches the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the oil level tube from the right cylinder head, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and discard the 11-mm mounting bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the engine and discard the cylinder head gasket.

5

Clean the bolt holes on the engine block with GM spray cleaner, part number 12346139, and blow the holes clear with compressed air. Remove the thread-locking material from the 8-mm mounting bolts with the GM driver tool, part number J 42385-107. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the locating pins on the engine block, then install the cylinder head over the locating pins.

6

Fasten new 11-mm mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Apply a 0.2-inch bead of GM thread lock compound, part number 12345382, to the threads of the 8-mm bolts, and fasten them by hand.

7

Tighten the 11-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the 11-mm bolts an additional 90 degrees on the second pass, then tighten them another 70 degrees on the third pass. Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds, beginning with the center bolt. Work your way outward on the 8-mm bolts, alternating from side to side.

8

Connect the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Mount the bracket for the alternator and tighten its bolts to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, including the mounting bolt below the power steering pump. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine, and install the push rods. Attach the bleed pipe for the coolant to the right cylinder head, and connect the negative battery cable.

Ford debuted its Mustang in 1965. Just three years later, it introduced a new engine, the so-called 302, or 5.0 liter V8 engine, a member of Fords Windsor engine family. This performance-oriented engine was available until the end of the 1970s.

History

Ford introduced the 5.0 liter, or 302-cubic-inch, engine in 1968 in anticipation of emissions standards established by the federal government in the 1970s. It remained an available engine in the Mustang until 1973. It was reinstated in 1975 and ended its run in Mustangs in 1979.

Cylinder Head to Engine Block

The bolts joining the cylinder head and the engine block require three distinct applications of torque executed in a helical sequence. The bolts require first 45 foot-pounds of torque, then 55 foot-pounds and finally 70 foot-pounds of torque. You should wait about 15 minutes between each step to allow the bolts to settle and stretch.

Other Specifications

The intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head in three stages: first to 12 foot-pounds, second to 20 foot-pounds, and third to 22 foot-pounds of torque. In 5.0 liter engines manufactured in 1969 and 1970, the rocker arm stud bolts to the cylinder head with 70 foot-pounds of torque. The valve cover bolts to the cylinder head with 4 foot-pounds of torque.

Cylinders are cut from the engine block to house the pistons and handle rapid piston movement. Ford offers 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines of different sizes, cylinder numbering and firing order. Variations on traditional cylinder-numbering occur on front-wheel drive engines.

V8 And V6 Numbering

All Ford engines follow the same cylinder numbering system. While facing the front of a V8, starting on your left, the cylinder closest to the fan is number 1. cylinders 2, 3 and 4 follow in order. On the right side, cylinder 5 is closest to the fan and the remainder follow in order. V6 engines follow the same pattern, with only 6 cylinders.

Inline 6 and 4-Cylinder Numbering

On both inline (straight) 6-cylinder and 4-cylinder engines, when looking at the engine from the front, the cylinder closest to the fan is cylinder 1, with the remaining following in order towards the rear of the engine..

Front-Wheel Drive Numbering

Front-wheel drive engines have a side-to-side engine orientation, which changes the cylinder locations. On front-wheel drive V8s, while looking at the engine from the front, the row of cylinders nearest the windshield begin with cylinder one to the left and follow in order to the right. Cylinder 5 is on the front left-hand side, with 6, 7 and 8 going towards the right. V6 engines follow the same pattern. Ford 4-cylinder front-wheel drive engines start with cylinder 1 on the far left when facing the engine.

Some Nissan models - particularly the ZD30 Nissan patrol, have had a history of serious engine problems over the years, including piston cracks, head cracks and cracked cylinders and engine blocks. Nissan has taken steps to rectify the issues in recent years. If you have a cracked cylinder, that means that the recess in which the piston slides back and forth has become damaged, resulting in the air/fuel mixture leaking out around the piston. If it is the cylinder that is cracked, rather than the piston, you may have to replace the entire engine block.

Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

A cracked cylinder will generally result in the loss of compression in that one cylinder. You may notice your engine "missing," running poorly and lacking in power. If your car runs at all, you would notice poor acceleration and poor performance on hills. However, there are a number of other issues that could cause this same problem. You may want to check your spark plugs for proper gapping and functioning. Also check your fuel injection system and your head gasket. Each of these items is much less expensive to repair, and would cause similar symptoms, so rule each of these out before replacing the cylinder.

Parts

If you determine that your engine problems are, in fact, the result of a cracked cylinder, and the crack is too severe to weld shut, you will need to replace the engine block itself. The cost of the engine depends on the year, make and model of your Nissan. Expect to pay between $1,800 and $2,000 for a fully remanufactured engine block. However, you may also be able to find a complete engine in the aftermarket for around a thousand to $1,500, depending on the make and model of your Nissan.

Labor

Generally, auto mechanic shops have a shop rate prominently posted in the customer service area. This is the hourly rate that the mechanic charges, generally in addition to the diagnostic fee, if any. The mechanic will give you an estimate based on the shop rate, times a multiplier from an industry guide called "The Mitchell Book" that lists how much time it typically takes to do a repair. Expect to pay between 8 and 10 hours of labor charges to do a full engine swap, depending on the make and model of your vehicle, assuming there are no other repairs to do.

Master Cylinder

It is possible that your mechanic is erring to your master cylinder. The master cylinder converts mechanical energy from your foot pressing down on the brake pedal into hydraulic energy, which is then distributed through the power steering system to your brakes, or to your clutch. You can get a new brake master cylinder for about $100-$120. For clutch master cylinders, expect to pay about $30 to $60 for the part. According to CarsDirect.com, the average cost of a brake master cylinder replacement is $200-$300, including labor.

International Harvester manufactured the 7.3-liter diesel engines that appear in Ford trucks from 1988 to 1992. This engine is most common in Ford trucks with a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The 7.3-liter Ford diesel engine uses a single cylinder head for all eight cylinders in the engine. The cylinder head is on top of the engine block and is part of the combustion chamber. The procedure for removing the cylinder head from a 7.3-liter engine is the same for all Ford trucks.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from starting the engine while removing the cylinder head.

2

Put a drain pan under the radiator. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench and allow the coolant in the radiator to drain into the pan. Store the coolant for later use.

3

Detach the shrouds for the radiator fan with a socket wrench. Disconnect the fan and clutch for the radiator as an assembly by using tools T83T-6312-A and T83T-6312-B. The mounting nut for the radiator fan and clutch has a left-hand thread, so you must turn it clockwise to remove the nut.

4

Label the electrical wiring on the alternator so you can connect it correctly later and detach the wiring from the alternator. Disconnect the bolts for the alternator and vacuum pump with a socket wrench. Remove these components from the engine block.

5

Disconnect the coolant hose from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Remove the fuel injection pump from the engine block. Disconnect the intake manifold and valley cover from the engine block.

6

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands. Remove the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds with a socket wrench. Disconnect the clamp and mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Detach the oil dipstick tube from the cylinder head and lower the vehicle.

7

Disconnect the valve covers with a socket wrench and remove the rocker arms from the engine block. Record the position of each push rod, so you can re-install them correctly later. Remove the push rods from the engine block.

8

Remove the fuel injector nozzles and glow plugs from the engine block with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Install lifting eyes on each end of the cylinder block with tool T70P-6000.

9

Lift the cylinder head from the engine block with the lifting eyes. Use caution to prevent the pre-chambers of the cylinder head from falling onto the engine when you remove the cylinder head.

Removing an exhaust manifold from a six-cylinder Ford 300 engine is not difficult. This engine actually has two exhaust manifolds, one on the left and one on the right. If the gasket goes bad between the manifold and the engine block, you need to replace it. Likewise, if the manifold starts to crack, you will need to replace it. Removing the exhaust manifold yourself can save you money on labor charges at an auto-repair garage.

Instructions

Left Manifold

1

Open the hood and prop it safely with the support. Remove the oil dipstick bracket using a wrench. Remove the air cleaner unit from the carburetor by turning the thumbscrew and pulling the entire assembly away from the engine. Remove the servo bracket assembly using a wrench. Label the proper location of each of the spark plug wires with a marker and masking tape. They must go back to the same location that you took them off.

2

Pull each wire from the plug by grasping the boot and pulling it away from the spark plug. Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire by pulling it off the fitting. Lift the vehicle on the front end with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Crawl under the vehicle and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold using a wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

3

Remove the bolts attaching the exhaust manifold to the engine block using a socket set. Pull the manifold and gasket away from the engine block.

Right Manifold

4

Remove the air cleaner from the engine. Do this if you are removing the left exhaust manifold as well. Disconnect the transmission dipstick tube from the engine using a wrench to release the nut. Remove the Thermactor hose and the air tube bracket using a wrench. Label the spark plug wires with a marker and masking tape. They have to go back on the way they came off. Unplug the ignition coil and plug wires by grasping the boots and pulling them away.

5

Remove the spark plugs using a socket, ratchet and extension. Remove the heat shield using a wrench to loosen the bolts. Lift the automobile using the automobile jack. Support the vehicle by placing a jack stand under the vehicle near the jacking point and raising it to the frame. Crawl under the vehicle and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the automobile to the ground.

6

Remove the exhaust manifold from the engine using a socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts. Remove the inner heat shroud and EGR tube as an assembly from the cylinder head using a wrench.

The GM Duramax 6600 is an eight-cylinder diesel engine based upon the design efforts from General Motors and Isuzu Motors. Key design implementations include four valves per cylinder, direct injection and lightweight aluminum heads. The Duramax 6600 became an engine option for the "HD" line of Chevrolet and GMC branded trucks beginning in the 2001 model year. Each cylinder for the Duramax 6600 has a designated number for identification purposes. Finding a specific cylinder will help you in regard to performing certain repairs or diagnostic tasks.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the "Park" position (for automatic transmissions), and engage the parking brake. Shut off the vehicles engine before performing repairs or checking underneath the hood.

2

Open the vehicles hood, and allow the engine to cool thoroughly.

3

Examine the top end of the engine, and locate the fuel injector lines, positioned above each cylinder. The passenger- and driver-side cylinder heads each contain four fuel injectors. Counting from the front of the engine to the back, cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 reside on the passenger-side cylinder head, while the driver side contains cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8.