Repair 7

Whether a vehicle owner desires to preserve a loved automobile or simply maintain its value, restoration is the way to go. Auto body technicians can perform just about any kind of restoration job, including body work, painting, sheet metal and fiberglass work, engine rebuilding, collision repair, interior restoration and fixing rust holes in floor boards and rocker panels. However, several issues must be considered before and during auto body restoration.

Evaluate Restoration Decision

Evaluate the condition of the car. If it appears heavily damaged, it may be beyond repair. Usually, if the frame is solid from top to bottom, the car is most likely restorable. However, if the frame is weak or filled with holes, especially on the interior floor surface, the cost of fixing the car must be caully weighed against the long-term reliability of the vehicle. Using a flashlight, inspect all the tight areas of the car, including the trunk and engine compartment. If possible, go to a garage and have the car lifted up on a hoist for a thorough examination.

Choose Qualified Body Technicians

Choose qualified professional to restore the car to its original luster and value. An amateurish restoration job can result in lost of time and money. Auto body restoration must be done properly so that the vehicle is as close to the original as possible. Try to get a feel for the kind of work the dealer performs. For example, if the company possesses a restoration gallery, review the stages of their work on other automobiles. These observation will give a good idea of what to expect.

Monitor Restoration Process

Monitor the progress of the restoration process. Auto body restoration does not happen overnight. Theore, visit the shop in order to observe the different stages the vehicle must pass through. The client should request a contract outlining the time and date of each restoration stage, or if this is not possible, request contact at the beginning of each stage. Close observation will give the client a more personal relationship with the auto body technicians and the work being performed.

When youre driving down the road on a hot day, nowhere near a gas station, and your autos air-conditioning starts malfunctioning, all you can think of is why you didnt get those repair tools and put them in the trunk. If youre one of the lucky ones and you have some tools in your car, you may be wondering whether theyre the right ones. There are some basic repair tools you should know about and have available for emergency maintenance. However, it is best to leave the AC repairs to a professional because refrigerant is a hazardous substance.

Safety and Service Manual Tools

The most important tools are for your safety. You should wear safety glasses, gloves, a face shield and apron the entire time you are repairing your autos air-conditioning system. Your cars AC unit can be extremely hot and the possibility of contact with refrigerant during recharging requires caution. You also need your cars service manual to pinpoint the exact pressures and directions for the AC repair, which can vary depending on the car model.

Diagnostic and Detection Tools

You need leak-detection diagnostic tools to determine the cause of your autos AC problem. There are dyes you can insert into the system and then check the pipes for remnants of the dye to confirm a leak. You can also purchase electronic leak detectors that alert you to refrigerant leaking into the atmosphere, or LED detection flashlight tools. If your auto has an AC leak, you should take it to a repair shop for the root cause to be remedied; any superficial corrections will be short lived.

Recharging Tools

To recharge your cars AC system you will need pressure gauges, a charge hose and refrigerant. The more inexpensive way to recharge the system is with only a low-pressure gauge; however, Autos.com recommends using both a high and low pressure gauge for best results. The charge hose connects to both the gauge and refrigerant and pierces the refrigerant can so it can enter the AC system. Most cars use a R-134a refrigerant that can be bought at your local gas station or auto supply store. There are also gauge and refrigerant sets sold that contain most of the repair tools you would need for your autos AC.

Auto glass, or a car windshield, is the front window of a car that protects occupants of a car from the elements. Auto windshields are typically made of tempered glass designed to break into many small pieces without sharp edges. Removing and replacing a windshield is not a difficult job, but it is a job that can be done better by professional installers. Nevertheless, the determined DIYer can follow a few steps.

Instructions

1

Remove the windshield wipers, using a socket wrench. Seal any vents in front of the windshield with masking tape to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the vents. Cover the front seats with old cloth to protect them from debris and dirt. Cover any other vents on the cars dashboard to prevent glass and other particles from getting inside the vents.

2

Unscrew the trim at the base of the windshield with a screwdriver. Pry off any other trim around the windshield. Embed the pointed tip of a windshield removal tool into the rubber seal along the edge of the windshield, but make sure you do not hit the glass. Following the manufacturers instructions on how to safely handle the windshield removal tool, cut the rubber seal at the edge of the windshield by dragging the cutting tool all the way around the windshield several times. Apply enough pressure on the windshield removal tool while cutting to ensure that the cutting tip penetrates deep into the rubber seal.

3

Recline the cars front seats. Lie back in the drivers seat, place a foot against each side of the windshield, and gently push the windshield outward, but do not kick the glass. Have a helper grab the glass to prevent it from falling, and to remove it. Pull away the remaining rubber seal around the windshield frame. Remove old sealant along the edge of the metal frame with a putty knife. Clean the edges of the metal frame with a rag.

4

Prepare the glass by applying primer specially matched to the urethane adhesive on the black band around the perimeter of the windshield. Apply a consistent bead of urethane adhesive around the metal edge of the windshield frame, using a caulk gun. Mount the glass carefully onto the opening and align the top, bottom and sides of the windshield to the metal frame. Press the windshield down gently to allow the bead of adhesive to spread slightly.

5

Let the adhesive set for the recommended time, then reinstall the trim pieces. Note that the adhesive must completely cure before the vehicle can be driven. Replace the windshield wiper, and clean the windshield.

There could be a few reasons that you need to make a new key for your auto. You might have lost your old key or maybe you want to have a spare key on hand just in case. Making a new auto key these days is a little more complicated than is used to be. Modern auto keys contain programmed microchips that are specific to your particular auto. This means you cant simply head down to the local key shop and have a duplicate made. You will have to work with your car dealer.

Instructions

1

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) on your auto. This number can be found on the right side of your dashboard near the windshield, under the hood, or on the inside of the drivers side door.

2

Go to the dealership where you purchased your car or any dealership that sells the make and model of your car. For example, if you own a Ford Fusion, you would visit a Ford dealer. You may need to call in advance to make an appointment. An added benefit of an appointment is that it could help you avoid a long wait at the dealership.

3

Give the employee at the dealership your VIN and drivers license. This is required for security and identification purposes and it will establish that you are the rightful owner of the car. If you are making a duplicate key and have the original, give that key to the dealer.

4

Wait for the dealers employee to make a new key. The key will be programmed with the security codes unique to your car. The entire procedure will take about one hour.

A lathe chuck is important to the function of a lathe. The chuck is used in woodworking applications to hold an object in place when you are working on it. These chucks are most commonly used to hold a rotating tool, such as a power drill. If you have a lathe chuck and want to clamp it down, you can auto-clamp it to ensure it will stay in place when in use.

Instructions

1

Inspect the lathe chuck and ensure it is secure around the object it is holding in place. Verify that it is tightened down over the object. Grip the lathe chuck and check how much it is sliding around. The chuck will move around slightly if it not securely clamped down to the table.

2

Move the chuck so it is near the edge of the table or surface it is on. This will enable you to auto-clamp it down in place. Position it exactly where you want it to be located and verify that it is level on the table.

3

Open up a C-clamp. Loosen it by hand until it is open enough to fit around the chuck and slide it over top of the base of the chuck. Slide one end of the clamp underneath the table and ensure the other side is sitting on top of the base of the chuck.

4

Turn the knob on the bottom of the C-clamp and tighten it down until it is firmly holding the chuck in place on the table and is also pressing firmly against the bottom of the table. Position another C-clamp on the other end of the chuck and tighten it down in place in the exact same manner. Grip the chuck and verify it does not move around.

European automobile bulbs receive certification under the European Economic Community (EEC), the U.N. Economic Commission for Europe (ECE) or both. Under either set of regulations, interpreting the coding on the bulb is the same. You can glean four valuable pieces of information from the sequence of numbers and letters: certification authority and country, bulb purpose, traffic direction and beam intensity. Lastly, Its important to be sure the auto bulb is European-made because the American SAE standards use some of the same coding with different meanings.

Instructions

1

Understand the certification authority and country of approval by finding the (E) and/or [e] symbol(s), where "" represents a number. "E" in a circle indicates ECE approval. "e" in a box indicates EEC approval. The "" number indicates the country of approval, according to the following code:

1 Germany

2 France

3 Italy

4 Netherlands

5 Sweden

6 Belgium

7 Hungary

8 Czechoslovakia

9 Spain

10 Yugoslavia

11 United Kingdom

12 Austria

13 Luxembourg

14 Switzerland

15 (currently vacant)

16 Norway

17 Finland

18 Denmark

19 Romania

20 Poland

21 Portugal

22 Russia

23 Greece

24 Ireland

25 Croatia

26 Slovenia

27 Slovakia

28 Belarus

29 Estonia

30 (currently vacant)

31 Bosnia-Herzegovina

32 Latvia

33 (currently vacant)

34 Bulgaria

35 (currently vacant)

36 (currently vacant)

37 Turkey

38 (currently vacant)

39 (currently vacant)

40 Yugoslavia-Macedonia

41 (currently vacant)

42 Special EC

43 Japan

44 (currently vacant)

45 Australia

46 Ukraine

47 South Africa

2

Understand the combination of letters and numbers that make up the bulbs function according to this code:

For signal lamp markings:

A Parking Lamp (also called "position lamp," "city light," "sidelight")

AR Reversing (backup) Lamp

F or B Rear Fog Lamp

IA Retroreflector

R Tail (rear position) Lamp

S1 Brake (stop) Lamp

S3 Center High Mount Stop Lamp (3rd brake light)

1 Front Turn Indicator for use more than 40 mm away from low beam headlamp axis

1a Front Turn Indicator for use more than 20 mm and less than 40 mm away from low beam headlamp axis

1b Front Turn Indicator for use less than 20 mm away from low beam headlamp axis

2a Rear Turn Indicator

5 Side Turn Signal Repeater

SM1 Sidemarker Lamp

SM2 Sidemarker Lamp

RL Daytime Running Lamp (DRL)

For forward illumination lamp functions:

B Fog lamp

C Low (dip) beam headlamp, tungsten filament

R High (main) beam headlamp or driving lamp, tungsten filament

CR Low/high (dip/main) beam headlamp, tungsten filament

HC Low (dip) beam headlamp, halogen

HR High (main) beam headlamp or driving lamp, halogen

HCR Low/high (dip/main) beam headlamp, halogen

DC Low (dip) beam headlamp, gas discharge (HID xenon)

DR High (main) beam headlamp or driving lamp, gas discharge (HID xenon)

DCR Low/high (dip/main) beam headlamp, gas discharge (HID xenon)

A Front position lamp ("parking lamp," "city light," "sidelight")

RL Daytime Running Lamp ("DRL")

PL Plastic lens (may occur with any of above markings)

3

Understand that arrows, or lack thereof, give information for headlamps relating to suitability for different traffic directions. A right-pointing arrow indicates that its only suitable for left-hand traffic, as in Britain and most former British colonies. A double arrow pointing in both directions indicates its suitability for either side of the road. Lastly, no arrow represents a headlamps design for the right-hand traffic found in most of the world.

4

Find the number on high beam auto bulbs, which is a multiple of 2.5 and is a maximum of 75. This code tells you the bulbs light intensity. Multiply the number by 3,000 to find out its actual intensity in units of candela.

Refrigerant circulates through the air conditioning system of your vehicle. Warm air blowing from the interior vents of the vehicle is the first sign refrigerant levels have dropped. Refrigerant levels lower naturally in older vehicles or from leaks in the vehicles A/C system. Adding refrigerant to the vehicles air conditioning system will restore cool air to the passenger compartment.

Instructions

1

Open the vehicles hood.

2

Find the low-pressure (smaller) fitting of the vehicles A/C system. Pull the plastic cap from the fitting and inspect it. Older vehicles will have threads on the outside of the fitting, and newer vehicles will have a quick-connect (non-threaded) fitting.

3

Connect a refrigerant gauge to the low side fitting. The gauge should be designed for your vehicles style of low side fitting. Attach the second fitting of the refrigerant gauge to a can of automotive A/C refrigerant.

4

Hold the can upright as you depress the trigger and send refrigerant into the A/C system. Stop adding refrigerant when the gauge needle sits in the range of 25 to 40 pounds per square inch.

5

Turn on the vehicle. Set the A/C temperature to full cold and the fan speed to high. Allow the vehicle to run until cold air blows from the interior vents. Turn off the vehicle.

6

Remove the refrigerant gauge from the low side fitting. Push the protective plastic cap over the fitting and close the hood.

Wheels are secured to a vehicle with a stud bolt and a lug nut. Over time, the stud bolts can become damaged and need replacement. Stud bolts are pressed into the wheel hub and cannot be removed as normal bolts can. Most vehicles have four or five studs per wheel while some vehicles have more.

Instructions

Remove the Wheel Hub Assembly

1

Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Do not remove them at this time.

2

Raise the vehicle in the air with the floor jack and place the jack stand in a secure place.

3

Lower that car until it sits securely on the jack stand. Shake the car to ensure that it rests safely on the stand.

4

Remove the lug nuts. Take the wheel and the tire off of the vehicle.

5

Remove the brake caliper and caliper mounting bracket with the socket and ratchet. With mechanics wire, hang the caliper from the vehicle, being careful not to pull or stretch the rubber brake like.

6

Remove the brake rotor by pulling it away from its resting position on the wheel studs.

7

Loosen the bolts holding the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the vehicle. Unthread them about halfway. Drive out the wheel bearing by striking the wheel bearing bolts with a hammer. Make sure to work your way around the bolts to drive out the bearing as straight as possible.

Remove and Replace Wheel Studs

8

Secure the wheel hub assembly into the vice. Be careful not to damage the dust cap on the back.

9

Thread a lug nut over each of the studs to be removed. Drive each stud out of the wheel hub assembly. Remove the lug nut from the wheel stud and discard the wheel stud. Repeat this process for all of the wheel studs to be removed.

10

Place a new wheel stud into the wheel stud hole and thread a lug nut over the new stud.

11

Pull the new stud into position with the socket and ratchet to tighten the lug nut. Tighten only until the back of the new stud fits flat with the back of the hub. Remove the lug nut. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all of the studs are properly secured.

12

Remove the wheel hub assembly from the vice.

Reinstall the Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

13

Place the wheel hub into position; it will not fit in all the way. Thread the hub bolts into the wheel hub by hand until tight.

14

Gently draw the wheel hub back into position by tightening each hub bolt with the socket and ratchet set. Tighten one bolt two full turns and move to the next. Work your way around the hub assembly until it has been completely set into place. Torque down the hub assembly bolts and look to make sure the hub assembly sits flush with its holding component.

15

Slide the brake rotor over the new studs and replace the caliper bracket by reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts with the socket and ratchet.

16

Place the brake caliper back into position. Be sure to check that both brake pads sit in the proper position.

17

Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Discard the mechanics wire. Smooth out any kinks or sharp bends in the rubber brake line.

In a car with a manual transmission, the function of the clutch is to interrupt the transfer of power between the engine and the drivetrain. This interruption, along with the gradual reapplication of power as the clutch is engaged, allows the car to be started smoothly from a stop and prevents the grinding of gears during shifting. The clutch mechanism consists of several parts that work together to perform this function.

Flywheel

The flywheel is a large metal disc attached the crankshaft of the engine. It is turned by the action of the engine, and it is the point of contact through which power is transferred from the running engine to the transmission and drivetrain. The flywheel has teeth around its circumference, which are engaged by the starter motor in order to turn the engine over; it also has a smooth outer surface that is gripped by the clutch disc when the clutch is engaged.

Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate

The clutch disc is a metal circle covered with a high-friction coating; the disc is pressed against the flywheel when the clutch is engaged. The pressure plate is a mechanism that uses a system of springs and levers to clamp the clutch disc against the flywheel when the clutch is engaged and to release the clutch disc when the clutch pedal is depressed. The hub of the clutch disc is attached to the input shaft of the transmission, and when the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate are squeezed together, power is transferred from the engine, causing the transmission shaft to rotate.

Clutch Linkage

The clutch pedal is connected to the clutch mechanism via a linkage system that can be either mechanical or hydraulic. A mechanical linkage consists of rods or cables connecting the clutch pedal to the clutch, while a hydraulic linkage uses lines filled with hydraulic fluid. The function of the linkage is to move the throw-out bearing -- a sliding bearing that moves the pressure plate away from the clutch disc -- when the pedal is depressed.

Automatic Transmissions

Automatic transmissions use a much more complicated mechanism in which sensors and electronics control when the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Hydraulic pressure activates either a number of steel plates and friction discs called a clutch pack -- much like the clutch in a manual transmission -- or a series of transmission bands that tighten and release around the clutch housing. When either of these systems is engaged, power is transferred from the engine to the transmission, and the car moves.

If you are handy with tools and want to keep down costs, instead of purchasing a brand new starter you can rebuild your existing starter. The most common causes of starter failure are worn-out brass contacts and a plunger that becomes too worn to properly engage the starter motor against the flywheel. Both can be be repaired with the use of a starter rebuild kit.

Instructions

1

Remove the starter from the vehicle. Methods for removing the starter will vary depending on the type of vehicle.

2

Purchase a starter rebuild kit from an auto parts outlet. These kits can be purchased for less than $40 as of 2010 and include most of the parts needed for rebuilding a starter. But you may have to purchase the starter plunger separately.

3

Find the end cover protecting the plunger and starter contacts. Disconnect the starter motor lead and remove this cover using a ratchet and socket or a Phillips screwdriver. This will expose the plunger and the brass starter contacts.

4

Pull the plunger out of the starter housing and set it aside. Take care not to lose the small spring at the end of the plunger. Find the L-shaped brass contacts on both sides of the plunger. Use a small box-end wrench to remove the retaining nuts holding the left and right contacts, along with the insulators and washers.

5

Install the new left and right contacts in the housing, along with all appropriate washers and insulators. Place the spring onto the end of the new plunger and feed the plunger into the starter housing. Tighten the retaining nuts with a box-end wrench. Push the plunger in against the spring to verify it pushes the starter gear outward. The gear should retract when releasing the plunger.

6

Reattach the end cover to the starter housing. Secure the cover with the three bolts and tighten them with a ratchet and socket or a Phillips screwdriver. Reinstall the starter in the vehicle. Methods for re-installation will vary, depending on the vehicle.

Tools used for polishing automotive finishes can be either handheld or used with an orbital buffer. All polishing tools use a variety of different waxes and polishing compounds that smooth the painted surface of a car and buff away scratches and oxidation left behind after a vehicle has been washed. Orbital buffers are best used on particularly difficult-to-clean spots or on large areas where it is too time consuming to use a handheld wax applicator.

Orbital Buffers

Orbital buffers are used along with a wool or foam pad to apply polishing compound to a vehicles surface. Once the polishing compound has been applied from its container, the orbital buffer speed can be selected on a rotary dial near the handle. The foam or wool pad is then placed onto the spot where the polishing compound was placed and the trigger of the orbital buffer pulled. Moving the buffer from side to side distributes the polishing compound over a wider area, allowing the user to polish a larger area at one time.

Foam and Wool Buffing Pads

Foam and wool buffing pads are used with orbital buffers to produce the final finish on a vehicle being polished. Wool pads have a deep scouring action that heats up the paint of the car. These pads are best used after a car has been painted and then wet sanded to remove the final sanding scratches left by the sandpaper. Foam pads, while being less resilient than wool pads, do not heat up as much, and so are well-suited to lighter buffing or polishing jobs, such as immediately following a thorough cleaning of a car.

Wax Applicators

Wax applicators are a round or square-shaped sponge that has a soft, flexible feel. These applicators are used with liquid or solid wax and can be rinsed out using a garden hose when they become saturated with wax. Wax applicators should not be used to polish vehicle paint since they tend to draw the wax into their pores, preventing the wax from drying.

Polishing Cloths

Polishing cloths for automotive polishing are the same material as washable dusting cloths used in your home. They have a slightly tacky texture, but they do not stick when rubbed against a smooth surface. These cloths are used after a coat of wax has been allowed to dry on the surface of a vehicle to remove the dried wax. Rather than simply pushing the wax off of the surface, they pull the wax into the fibers of the cloth. The cloth is then snapped in the air to release built-up wax dust. These cloths can be cleaned and reused multiple times.

Plastic bug shields offer important protection, preventing debris like small rocks from damaging your vehicles front end. Even insects hitting a car at just 30 miles per hour can damage the finish. Plastic bug shields are made from durable plastics such as ABS, and acrylic. However, even durable plastics can break. Replacement bug shields are expensive, but you can use solvent cement to repair a plastic bug shield for a fraction of the cost.

Instructions

1




Remove the bug shield, which either clips on or screws on. Because solvent cements can damage the vehicles finish, you do not want to attempt a repair unless you have removed the shield. Solvent cement will not work if a layer of oil or grease is present; thus, wash the shield with a dish detergent formulated for grease. Allow the shield to dry completely before gluing.

2

Fit the broken pieces together to ensure a clean connection at the break. Clean cracks, in acrylic, look seamless when the two pieces are butted against one another tightly. ABS distorts more, when broken, due to the nature of the material, so the pieces do not fit together as neatly. If the cracked pieces have a gap between them when fitted together, a plastic patch may be needed. This is a thin piece of plastic glued to the backside of the crack to provide reinforcement.

3

Clamp the broken pieces together using spring clamps. When the broken pieces are held firmly in place, with the cracked edges cleanly lined up, mark the clamps positions with painters masking tape. Marking the positions of the clamps makes it easier to reposition them after the solvent cement is applied. Remove the clamps.

4




Fill the squeeze bottle applicator with solvent cement. Fill the bottle to the halfway point. Squeeze the bottle while upright, until the solvent cement is near the top. Slightly release the pressure, while still holding the bottle. This creates a vacuum that keeps the glue from spilling when the bottle is inverted.

5

Apply a thin line of solvent cement to one of the broken pieces. Connect the other broken piece, making sure the pieces are aligned. Clamp the two pieces together, using the painters masking tape marks to align the clamps. Allow two hours drying time before handling. If the pieces need additional support because the pieces do not fit together cleanly, cut a small piece of thin acrylic or ABS plastic to use as a backing. The plastic should be 1/16 inches thick, the same length as the crack, but one inch wider. Apply solvent cement to the plastic backing. Apply the patch to the backside of the break or crack, then clamp in place. Remove the clamps after six hours. Mount the bug shield back on the vehicle to complete the project.