Showing posts with label replace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label replace. Show all posts

How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

Friday, June 6, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace a Fuel Pump in a 2000 Dodge Intrepid

Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.

Instructions

Relieving the Fuel System Pressure

    1

    Take out the fuel filler cap.

    2

    Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.

    3

    Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.

    4

    Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.

    5

    Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.

Removing the Fuel Pump

    6

    Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.

    7

    Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.

    8

    Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.

    9

    Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.

    10

    Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.

    11

    Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.

    12

    Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.

    13

    Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.

    14

    Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.

    15

    Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.

    16

    Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.

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How to Replace an 02 Sensor in a 95 Astro Van

Tuesday, May 20, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

There are two oxygen or O2 sensors in the exhaust system on the 1995 Chevy Astro van. The process of changing the O2 sensors is the same whether it is the upstream or downstream sensors that you need to change, except that the location is different. These O2 sensors are critical to the proper operation of the fuel system and performance of the engine in your van. If you have a bad sensor, change it right away to correct drivability issues, hard stats and poor fuel mileage.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the front of your Chevy Astro with a jack and support it under the frame rails with a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the van is securely on the stands.

    2

    Locate the O2 sensors from under the van. The upstream sensor threads into the exhaust pipe coming down from the engine manifold. It is on the inside edge of the pipe, closest to the engine block. The downstream O2 sensor is in the exhaust system just forward of the catalytic converter.

    3

    Determine which sensor you need to change, and position yourself below it. Locate the wiring harness coming out of the back of the top of the sensor and follow it up to the connector where the sensors harness and the vans wiring harness join. Disconnect the two halves of the connector by releasing the locking tab and pulling them apart.

    4

    Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe using an O2 sensor socket and ratchet to turn the sensor counterclockwise until it is free from the threads. Discard the old sensor and install the new one into the threaded hole on the exhaust pipe using your hands to get it starter. This will help prevent cross threading.

    5

    Tighten the O2 sensor with your O2 sensor socket and ratchet. Run the wiring harness connector from the new sensor up to the connector on the vans wiring harness. Push the two halves of the connectors together until the locking tab engages. If you are replacing both sensors, move to the other sensor and repeat the process.

    6

    Raise the front of your Astro off the jack stands with a jack. Remove the stands from under the van then lower the jack, setting the van back on the ground. Test run the engine to verify the sensors are functioning properly.

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How to Replace the Timing Belt on a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

Sunday, May 18, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 1 comments |
How to Replace the Timing Belt on a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

The Isuzu Rodeo is a pickup truck manufactured from 1988 to 2002. A common engine for the 2001 model is a four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft (See Reference 1) (See Reference 2) . This engine requires a timing belt to keep the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The most important part of replacing the timing belt is ensuring that you keep the crankshaft and camshaft in the correct position during the procedure.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont inadvertently start the engine.

    2

    Turn the drive belt adjuster clockwise with a box-end wrench to relieve the tension on the the drive belt. Remove the drive belt.

    3

    Detach the electrical connectors from the chassis wiring harness in the left rear quadrant of the engine compartment.

    4

    Disconnect the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley.

    5

    Remove the retaining nut that attaches the engine harness cover to the front of the engine, and detach the cover.

    6

    Remove the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft with the timing marks on the crankshaft housing.

    7

    Disconnect the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner from the engine. Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft.

Installation

    8

    Connect the timing belt tensioner and tighten the adjusting bolt by hand. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks if necessary.

    9

    Place a "J-43037" tool between the intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket of the camshaft to hold the camshaft in place while you install the timing belt.

    10

    Install the new timing belt while keeping the tension side of the belt taut. Turn the adjusting lever on the timing belt tensioner clockwise until the pointer on the tensioner moves to the center of the "V" notch on the tensioner housing.

    11

    Tighten the adjuster bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

    12

    Replace the front cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 53 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the engine harness. Connect the crankshaft pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs.

    13

    Install the drive belt and turn the drive belt adjuster counterclockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

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How to Replace a Mass Air Flow Sensor in a 3 8 2000 Buick

Tuesday, May 13, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

Replacing the mass air flow sensor on your 2000 Buick 3.8-liter engine is relatively straightforward. The MAF sensor sits on top of the throttle body just above the air intake. The MAF sensor is a flat, plastic piece held in place with several screws and has an electrical connector attached to its left side. Replacement OE MAF sensors are available through the dealer and aftermarket replacements are available from most auto-parts stores.

Instructions

    1

    Open the hood of your Buick and locate the throttle body on the front of the engine. The air intake hose attaches to the front of the throttle body, making it easy to identify.

    2

    Disconnect the electrical connector from the end of the sensor by lifting the locking tab on the connector, then pulling it straight off the sensor. Locate the two screws on the top of the sensor--they are at opposite corners--and remove them with a Torx screwdriver.

    3

    Lift the MAF sensor straight up and away from the throttle body. Discard it and position a new MAF sensor on the throttle body, aligning the screw holes in the sensor with the threaded holes on the throttle body.

    4

    Install the two Torx-head retaining screws through the MAF sensor and into the throttle body. Tighten them with a Torx screwdriver, then push the electrical connector onto the end of the new sensor, making sure the locking tab snaps in place.

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How to Replace an 02 Sensor On a 1997 Mazda Protege

Thursday, May 8, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1997 Mazda Protg has a single oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold. When the sensor fails, it will trigger the "Check Engine" light on your cars instrument panel, and your cars gas mileage will substantially decrease. If you want to avoid losing money at the gas pump, purchase a new sensor from an auto parts store and replace it at home.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the Protg with a jack and secure the car on jack stands. Locate the oxygen sensor threaded into the exhaust manifold. The exhaust manifold is located beneath the intake at the base of the engine and is connected to the exhaust pipe. The oxygen sensor resembles a spark plug threaded into the manifold with an electrical wire connected to the top.

    2

    Pull the electrical connection apart to disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor. Remove the oxygen sensor from the manifold with a wrench.

    3

    Coat the new sensor threads with anti-seize compound. Insert the new sensor by hand. Tighten the sensor with the wrench. Push the electrical connection together until it locks.

    4

    Raise the car slightly with the jack. Remove the jack stands and lower the jack to return the car to the ground.

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How to Replace an O2 Sensor on a 1996 Nissan Maxima

Monday, May 5, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace an O2 Sensor on a 1996 Nissan Maxima

The 3.0-liter V-6 engine of the 1996 Nissan Maxima contains three oxygen sensors in the exhaust system. There are two upstream sensors in the front pipe just below the manifold flanges, and theres a third sensor down after the catalytic converter. Auto parts stores can determine which sensor has failed by reading the "check engine light" code the sensor has tripped. Most will perform this service for free in order to sell the parts to the customer.

Instructions

    1

    Apply the parking brake of the 1996 Nissan Maxima.

    2

    Hoist the front of the vehicle on one side with the car jack high enough to place a jack stand under the front frame rail. Repeat this for the other front side so the entire front axle of the car is elevated.

    3

    Put on the safety glasses. Locate the sensor being replaced by crawling under the vehicle. One sensor is located in the drivers side front pipe up near the manifold, another is in the shorter pipe (closer to the firewall) on the passengers side front pipe assembly, and the downstream sensor is located after the catalytic converter near the center of the undercarriage.

    4

    Disconnect the plug of the oxygen sensor from the plug of the harness.

    5

    Place the wire of the sensor through the opening of the 22-mm box-end wrench or in the slot of the O2 sensor tool. Place the wrench or tool onto the hex-head of the sensor.

    6

    Turn the wrench or tool (with a ratchet) to the left to remove it from the O2 sensor port. The sensors only have four to five threads, so once loosened, the sensor will quickly come out of the port.

    7

    Thread the replacement sensor into the port by hand. Tighten it with the wrench or tool and ratchet. Be caul not to overtighten the sensor. The threads are delicate and can be easily stripped. Tighten it snug only.

    8

    Connect the plug of the replacement sensor to the harness plug.

    9

    Collect the tools and other material from under the Maxima before lowering it to the ground.

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How to Replace the Turn Signal Bulb in a 2005 Volkswagen New Beetle

Sunday, May 4, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace the Turn Signal Bulb in a 2005 Volkswagen New Beetle

Knowing how to maintain your vehicle can save you time and money. However, maintenance on your vehicle can be a bit challenging. Learning the basics, such as how to replace your turn signal bulbs, can be tricky but also one that is rewarding for both you and your wallet.

Instructions

    1

    Open the trunk of your vehicle and remove the round panel directly behind the taillight assembly.

    2

    Unscrew the exposed black knob to release the back light casing.

    3

    Locate the release tab on the light and pull out the casing. The release tab should be in the gap between the light casing and the portion of the vehicle closest to the hatch back door.

    4

    Find the two exposed light switches on the back of the exposed light. One of the switches is for your vehicles brake light and the other is for the turn signal.

    5

    Disconnect the wires on the back of the turn signal and turn the switch counter-clockwise to remove.

    6

    Remove the old bulb and with the clean cloth, insert the new bulb. The bottom of the bulb must be lined up properly in order to secure itself in the casing.

    7

    Replace and reconnect the turn signal switch and wires. Replace the casing and secure the black knob and panel.

    8

    Turn on the turn signal to ensure that it is working properly.

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How to Replace a 1994 Corvettes Tail Light

Tuesday, April 29, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace a 1994 Corvettes Tail Light

The 1994 Corvette has tail lights that are readily accessible from the rear of the car. As a result, if you have a tail light burn out, you can replace it in just a few minutes. Make sure that you use the light bulb that is compatible with the socket.

Instructions

    1

    Take the two screws out from either side of the tail light using your Phillips head screwdriver. You can reach them from the rear of the car. See page 198 of the manual in the References section for a diagram.

    2

    Remove the lens, and put it on a safe, level surface.

    3

    Push the burnt-out bulb inward and then turn it counterclockwise, or to the left. Then remove it by pulling it toward yourself.

    4

    Slide the new bulb into the socket. Press it in and turn clockwise, or to the right.

    5

    Replace the tail light lens, and then put the screws back in with the Phillips head screwdriver.

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How to Replace the Cylinder Head Gasket in a 2000 Chevy Pickup

Saturday, April 26, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup truck that has been in production since 1998. It is available with several types of V-6 and V-8 engines, which have a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket varies slightly, depending on which cylinder head you must remove. These procedures are generally the same for the 4.3-liter, 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines in the 2000 Chevrolet pickup.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable using the socket wrench. Detach the bleed pipe for the coolant from the right cylinder head. Disconnect the intake manifold and remove the push rods from the engine. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

    2

    Remove the mounting bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the alternator bracket that is behind the power steering pump, and push the bracket aside with the alternator still attached.

    3

    Disconnect the bolt that attaches the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the oil level tube from the right cylinder head, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

    4

    Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and discard the 11-mm mounting bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the engine and discard the cylinder head gasket.

    5

    Clean the bolt holes on the engine block with GM spray cleaner, part number 12346139, and blow the holes clear with compressed air. Remove the thread-locking material from the 8-mm mounting bolts with the GM driver tool, part number J 42385-107. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the locating pins on the engine block, then install the cylinder head over the locating pins.

    6

    Fasten new 11-mm mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Apply a 0.2-inch bead of GM thread lock compound, part number 12345382, to the threads of the 8-mm bolts, and fasten them by hand.

    7

    Tighten the 11-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the 11-mm bolts an additional 90 degrees on the second pass, then tighten them another 70 degrees on the third pass. Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds, beginning with the center bolt. Work your way outward on the 8-mm bolts, alternating from side to side.

    8

    Connect the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Mount the bracket for the alternator and tighten its bolts to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, including the mounting bolt below the power steering pump. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine, and install the push rods. Attach the bleed pipe for the coolant to the right cylinder head, and connect the negative battery cable.

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How to Replace a Passenger Mirror in a 2003 Mazda 6

Thursday, April 24, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace a Passenger Mirror in a 2003 Mazda 6

The Mazda 6 sedan is equipped with fixed door mirrors that may be subject to damage from minor car accidents. The procedure for replacing a door mirror is simple enough to be performed at home using basic tools, although it does require partial removal of the interior door panel. You can obtain a replacement mirror at either a Mazda dealer parts counter or you may find one at a local parts shop or junkyard.

Instructions

Removing the door and mirror assemblies

    1

    Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable.

    2

    Remove the tweeter speaker assembly from the inside of the door where the window frame meets the front of the door. Use a wide, flat bladed screwdriver or your fingers to caully pop the retaining clips around the assembly away from the door.

    3

    Disconnect the tweeter assembly from the doors wiring by pushing the locking pin down and separating the connector pieces. Set the tweeter assembly aside.

    4

    Pop off the cover for the door light at the base of the door panel. This is held in place by plastic prongs. Once this is removed, remove the screw located underneath.

    5

    Pop open the small cap underneath the passenger side door handle and remove the screw hidden below the cap. Pull the door handle out and remove the plastic surrounding piece. Disconnect the wiring for the power door lock and set the plastic surrounding piece aside.

    6

    In the door handle "pocket," pull the rubbery trim piece up ---this is secured by adhesive--- just enough to access the screw hidden beneath. Remove the screw.

    7

    Caully work your way around the door panel starting at the base and pull the panel out to the retaining clips holding the panel in place. There are two clips at the back (latching) side, there are two along the base, one at the front lower corner, and three going up the front (hinge) side.

    8

    Lift the door panel vertically to disengage the hooks from the top of the door. You may be able to just disengage the front hook while leaving the rear hook clipped. Allow the panel to come away from the door structure enough to allow access to the three bolts holding the door mirror in place. This will not require disconnecting the power window harness.

    9

    Disconnect the power mirror electrical connector and remove the three nuts holding the mirror assembly on the door. Gently work the mirror away from the door.

Installing the mirror and door assemblies

    10

    Insert the bolts on the replacement mirror assembly through the openings in the door and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts, ensuring that the fit is snug and even. Reconnect the power mirror wiring harness.

    11

    Hook the door panel back to the top of the door structure, caully ensuring that the panel lines up properly and that the interior door handle fits through the cutout in the door panel. Work around the door panel pushing each of the retaining clips back into place.

    12

    Insert the screw into the hole in the door handle pocket ---under the rubbery trim--- and tighten it to snug. Push the trim down and hold until the adhesive sticks it into place.

    13

    Clip the wiring connector for the power door lock back onto the harness and work the trim piece into place around the interior door handle. Insert the screw into the hole in the trim piece and tighten until snug. Push the cap into place covering the screw. Insert the screw into the hole by the door light and tighten until snug. Clip the door light cover into place.

    14

    Reconnect the tweeter wiring harness and reinstall it by pushing the retaining clips back into place. Reconnect the cars battery and test to make sure that the electrical connections are properly installed and that all devices work as intended.

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How to Replace 96 Jeep Keys

Saturday, April 19, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace 96 Jeep Keys

Most of the latest model vehicles have become so user-friendly that drivers no longer even have to dial their own phones to make a phone call --- you can just tell your vehicle to call your mom and your vehicle, after clarifying whether you want her cell or home phone, will make the call for you. Despite the conveniences modern cars offer, one thing has become more complicated as cars become smarter: replacing your car keys. The latest model vehicles, including Jeeps, are equipped with computer chips that read your car keys. If you lose the key to a newer model Jeep, youll have to have a new one cut and programmed, which is costly. Replacing the keys to your 1996 Jeep is far less complicated.

Instructions

    1

    Contact any locksmith or Jeep dealership in your neighborhood to obtain a replacement key for your 1996 Jeep.

    2

    Provide the locksmith or dealership with the vehicle identification number (VIN) of your Jeep so they can use it to obtain the information on how to cut your specific key. VINs are located on your insurance, registration and purchase paperwork as well as on your drivers door panel and on the bottom left side of your Jeeps windshield.

    3

    Schedule a time to visit your Jeep dealer or to have a locksmith come to you to replace your 1996 Jeep key.

    4

    Pay for your new keys and you will be on your way.

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How to Replace the Rear License Plate Bulb on a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Thursday, April 17, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee has two license plate bulbs in the rear. Theyre located on the hatch shelf directly above the license plate. The front license plate doesnt require illumination, so it has no bulbs. Rear license-plate illumination, on the other hand, is mandated by law in the United States. Lighting in the rear can be overlooked since its impossible for a driver to see the back of the vehicle when driving. The license plate bulbs come on when the headlight switch is turned on.

Instructions

    1

    Ensure that the headlight switch is off. If necessary, turn on the headlight switch to determine which license plate bulb is out (unless youre replacing both). Turn the switch back off after checking.

    2

    Raise your 1997 Grand Cherokees rear hatch.

    3

    Remove the retaining screw on the lens cover of the faulty license plate bulb, using the screwdriver. Each lens only has one screw; its on the inside edge of the lens.

    4

    Pull the lens downward from where the retaining screw was removed. There is a small tab on the other side of the lens that acts as a hinge and holds the other side of the lens in place.

    5

    Pull the spent bulb straight out of the socket. Push the replacement bulb into the socket and test the light before replacing the lens assembly. Ensure that the tab on the lens is seated inside the bulbs cavity when reassembling it.

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How to Replace the Key for a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

Tuesday, April 15, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace the Key for a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix

Most people find themselves searching for their car keys from time to time. More often than not the keys are found. However, there might come a time when you simply cannot find them. When this happens, you can contact your local Pontiac dealership to request new keys for your 2006 Grand Prix.

Instructions

    1

    Obtain the vehicle identification number of your Grand Prix from the purchase paperwork, the inside of the drivers door, or the bottom of the left side of the windshield. Write the number down.

    2

    Call your local Pontiac dealership. Tell the customer service representative youve misplaced the keys to your 2006 Grand Prix and would like to obtain new ones.

    3

    Visit the dealership. Give the service rep your vehicle identification number. This number provides information specific to your car, such as the cut of the key and whether or not the key needs a computer chip to match your Grand Prixs computer.

    4

    Pay for your replacement keys. Smart keys and keyless entry fobs are more expensive than traditional car keys.

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How to Replace the Center Link on a 1988 Chevy Silverado

Monday, April 14, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The 1998 Chevy Silverado is built on the C/K General Motors truck platform. It is available in a number of cab configurations as well as in two-wheel drive, and four-wheel drive. All Silverados use center links to connect the steering knuckles on the front wheels. The center link uses tie rods with ball joints to connect to the steering knuckles so that it can flex with the truck. Over time the center link can break and need to be replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Park the truck on a level surface, in a location thats free of traffic where you have plenty of room to work around the front end. Place the truck in Park and pull the emergency brake before turning the truck off. Disconnect the black wire from the battery. Jack the front of the truck up with the car jack and lower the vehicle onto jack stands

    2

    Locate the center link that connects the two front steering knuckles. Use a wrench to loosen the tie rod on the right first. Unscrew the bottom cup joint by hand. Then unscrew the bottom cup joint from the left side of the center link. Pull the center link out from under the truck and use a rubber mallet to knock the cups off the balls on each end of the center link.

    3

    Knock the cup joints on to the balls on the new center link with the rubber mallet. Then lift the right side of the center link up and screw the right cup joint back into the tie rod by hand. Then, lift the left side and screw in the left cup joint by hand. Once the new center link is supported, use the wrench to tighten the tie rod cup joints.

    4

    Use the jack to lower the truck off of the jack stands. Have a friend watch the front wheels as you turn the steering wheel to make sure they both turn at the same rate. If not, then retighten the tie rods with a wrench.

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How to Replace the Exhaust Gasket on an F150 5 4

Sunday, April 13, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

    1

    Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

    2

    Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

    3

    Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

    4

    Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

    5

    Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

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How to Replace Fuel Injectors for an 88 Jeep

Tuesday, April 8, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

Chrysler uses its Jeep brand for its off-road and sport-utility vehicles. The 1988 Jeep models included the Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer and Wrangler. These vehicles came equipped with fuel injectors, which deliver the correct fuel-air mixture to the engine, at the correct timing. To access the fuel injectors in a 1988 Jeep, you will need to remove additional components. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all 1988-made Jeeps.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal, using a socket wrench, to prevent the battery from generating sparks. Disconnect the air cleaner and its hose. Remove the upper and lower bonnets from the throttle body.

    2

    Press the tabs on the electrical wire for the fuel injector and pull the wire up to disconnect it from the fuel injector. Remove the screws from the retainer clip on the fuel injector, using a socket wrench, and detach the retainer clip from the fuel injector.

    3

    Grab the center collar of the fuel injector between the electrical terminals with a small pair of pliers. Rock the fuel injector gently back and forth while lifting it from the injector bore of the throttle body. Ensure that you do not twist the fuel injector while removing it. Discard all of the O-rings and the centering ring from the fuel injector.

    4

    Apply a coating of transmission fluid to the new O-rings and install them into the injector bore of the throttle body. Place the new centering ring on top of the upper O-ring. Align the fuel injectors locating ring, with its slot on the injector housing of the throttle body. Place the fuel injector into the injector bore of the throttle body and attach the retaining clip. Fasten the screws for the retainer clip, using a socket wrench.

    5

    Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel injector. Attach the upper and lower bonnets to the throttle body, using a socket wrench. Install the air cleaner and connect the air cleaner house. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

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How to Replace the Headlamp on a 2008 GMC Acadia

Tuesday, April 1, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace the Headlamp on a 2008 GMC Acadia

Proper headlamp performance is vital to the safe operation of a motor vehicle at night or in inclement conditions. If you have noticed the light output from your 2008 GMC Acadia headlights has diminished, or if one or more bulbs has burned out, it is time to replace them. Replacing the headlamps in your Acadia is an easy process that requires no tools. You will be rewarded with improved nighttime visibility in your vehicle after a small investment of time.

Instructions

    1

    Turn off the engine and turn the light selector switch to the off position.

    2

    Open the hood of the vehicle and prop open. Remove the electrical connector at the back of the headlamp assembly by depressing the plastic tab and pulling straight back. Some side to side movement may be needed if the connector is especially snug.

    3

    Remove the protective dust cap on the back of the headlamp by grasping it and pulling straight back. This cover keeps dust and moisture out of the headlight housing, make sure not to damage it.

    4

    Remove the metal retaining clip by pushing downward and swinging it away from the bulb. Remove the bulb by pulling it straight back, being caul not to strike it against the headlight enclosure.

    5

    Insert the new bulb into the headlight assembly and swing retaining clip into place.

    6

    Reinstall the dust cap and ensure it is well seated by running your finger around the circumference.

    7

    Reattach the electrical connector. Applying a small amount of silicone lubricant gel will ensure the connector does not corrode and is easy to remove the next time. Repeat all steps for the other headlight bulb if needed.

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How to Replace the Wiper Arms on a 1998 Dakota Sport

Wednesday, March 26, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |

There may be many reasons to replace a wiper arm on a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport. Having to replace an entire arm is a rare repair. Having to replace the wiper blade is much more common. However, if a wiper arm becomes damaged, bent or the splined cog of the pivot hole gets stripped (most often caused by wipers being turned on when stuck frozen to ice or snow), the wiper arm will need replacement. While replacing wiper arms is pretty standardized among many makes and models, there are a few subtle differences in the Dodge Dakota.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the windshield wiper motor to the Off position. If a wiper arm is misaligned, it will not matter at this time.

    2

    Open the hood to the Dodge Dakota Sport. The pivots at the base of the wiper arms on the Dakota are slightly concealed by the hood when in the closed position.

    3

    Lift the pivot cover upward from the base of the wiper arm to reveal the wiper arm retaining nut.

    4

    Remove the retaining nut with a ratchet and 15mm socket by turning it counterclockwise.

    5

    Pry the wiper arm (caully, but firmly) upward off the pivot stud using the wiper arm removal tool. Move the position of the tool around the base of the blade near the pivot to work the arm off evenly.

    6

    Remove the wiper blade from the removed wiper arm (if reusing). If not, place the replacement wiper blade onto the new wiper arm before installing it.

    7

    Place the new wiper arm onto the pivot so the wiper arm is placed in its down/off location. Do not turn the arm to align it once on the splined pivot. If necessary, remove the wiper arm and align it properly.

    8

    Replace the retaining nut and tighten.

    9

    Reposition pivot cover and snap it into place.

    10

    Repeat the same procedure for the opposite wiper arm before closing the hood and testing the new wiper arms.

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How to Replace Brake Lights on the 1998 Isuzu Amigo

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How to Replace Brake Lights on the 1998 Isuzu Amigo

Changing the brake lights on your 1998 Isuzu Amigo yourself will save you money and time, and it is a relatively simple task you can perform at home. Have all supplies handy before you start to make the job go more smoothly.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the three screws that hold the brake light cover on your Isuzu Amigo by using the Phillips screwdriver. The first screw is located between the bumper and the cover. The other two screws are located on each side of the cover in the small black areas that resemble vents.

    2

    Slide the assembly straight back so the bulb is accessible.

    3

    Unscrew the bulb by turning it counterclockwise.

    4

    Screw in the new bulb by turning it clockwise. The new bulb should be model number 1157.

    5

    Screw the three screws back in place with the Phillips screwdriver. Tighten them enough that the light assembly does not leak or rattle around.

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How to Replace the PCV Valve in a 1988 Mustang

Friday, March 7, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
How to Replace the PCV Valve in a 1988 Mustang

The PCV valve on the 1988 Ford Mustang engines is responsible for recycling unburned gas from the crankcase back to the combustion chamber. PVC is defined as positive crankcase ventilation. The PVC valve is considered an emissions component because it prevents the unburned gas from blowing out into the air. The valve has a pressure release ball inside that opens and closes due to pressure from the crankcase. Once a high amount of pressure from the unburned gas pushes against the pressure release ball, the ball will open and release the unburned gas into the combustion chamber.

Instructions

    1

    Park the 1988 Ford Mustang and open the hood. Set the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling away as you repair it.

    2

    Locate the silver colored L-shaped PCV valve, located on the valve cover closest to the air filter housing. The PCV valve is inserted into a rubber grommet on top of the valve cover. There are two plastic tubes on top of the PCV valve.

    3

    Pull the plastic tubes off of the PCV valve with your hands. If the tubes are stuck, twist them as you pull them off.

    4

    Pull the PCV valve straight out of the rubber grommet seated on top of the valve cover. Wipe down the area around PCV valve and the rubber grommet with a clean rag to remove any dirt or grease.

    5

    Push the new PCV valve into the rubber grommet and reattach the plastic tubes to the top of the PCV valve. Make sure the new PCV valve is completely seated into the rubber grommet. Close the hood.

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