Repair 7

Wheel alignment affects the steering pattern of your vehicle and is a major contributor to tire wear. Improperly aligned tires may pull to the left or right when driving, which is a dangerous safety hazard. The three elements of alignment to consider are caster, camber and toe. These terms er to the placement of the wheels, whether they be set forward or backward, tilted in or out or pointed to the inside or outside.

Laser Wheel Alignment Tool

Laser wheel alignment tools make taking toe measurements quick and easy. Wheels with a toe-in setting face inside, while toe-out wheels point to the outside when the tires are viewed head on. Laser tools replace the old method of measuring, which usually involved painting a line around the tire and measuring by hand. With a wheel alignment tool, youll only need a steel bar and bungee cord to set the toe on a vehicle with an "in" or "out" toe setting. While these tools make setting the toe easy, the can be expensive and may not be practical for home workshops.

Caster/Camber Gauges

Caster and camber are wheel alignment elements that can be measured with caster/camber gauges. Caster ers to the position of the wheels top and bottom ball joints in relation to the spinning axis, the cars axle. When viewed from the side, the ball joints may be positioned either in front of or behind the axle, rather than sharing an equal distribution for proper alignment. Camber can be viewed by looking at the tires head on; the top of the tire may be tilted in or out, which can cause uneven wear on your tires. Caster/camber gauges are attached to wheel hubs and use a level to determine the amount of positive or negative caster or camber associated with each wheel. You turn the wheel to one direction, take a reading, then turn in the other direction, take another reading and calculate the difference. Manual gauges are one option, but digital gauges take the guesswork out of caster and camber measurements.

Camber Kits

Most vehicles are built with the ability to adjust toe and caster in the suspension set-ups, but, according to Sport Compact Only, "less than half of vehicles manufactured have camber adjustability." Those vehicles that do have this ability, usually only allow for a small range of correction. Camber kits widen the range of camber adjustability so you can correct excessive camber problems beyond factory specifications. They are almost always necessary if you lower your vehicle, which can produce excess negative camber. The shim and washer camber kit design is fairly easy to install; it fits snugly against the hub and acts like a shim to hold the tire out. Some camber kits are more difficult to install, however, and may require the complete removal or replacement of your vehicles ball joints.

Wheel alignment adjusts the wheel angles so that they are parallel to one another and to the ground. Proper wheel alignment and related maintenance is critical to keeping a vehicle in top condition. Wheel alignment is also important for safety reasons--poor alignment can result in issues regarding uneven tire wear and tracking, as well as create steering problems.

How Wheel Alignments Are Performed

Wheel alignment technicians check an automobiles alignment by test driving it prior to servicing it. Test drives provide the technician firsthand knowledge of steering and tire performance, giving him important information that will allow him to effectively diagnose any issues.

Front-Wheel Alignment

Front wheel alignment service inspects and adjusts the alignment of the vehicles front tires and axles. A car that regularly pulls to one side or has uneven tire wear indicates the need of a front-wheel alignment, especially when confirmed by a technician. As of 2010, front-end alignment can run approximately $30 to $70, depending on the company and location.

Four-Wheel Alignment

Four-wheel alignment inspects all tires, but technicians may perform it in two different ways. A wheel technician can inspect all four wheels but only service the two front wheels, or he can inspect and service all four wheels, which is known as a full four-wheel alignment. Full alignment services are more expensive than other types of alignment services because of the extensive work. As of 2010, this service can cost between $50 to $100 depending on the company and its location.

You can clear the electronic steering wheel code on your BMW right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The BMW comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics computer that receives and stores trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle, including from the electronic steering wheel. After repairs have been made, the computer codes need to be reset so any warning lights shut off and the computer can continue to properly monitor the mechanical and electrical functions of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Pop up the hood of your BMW and prop it up with the safety bar.

2

Locate the negative battery terminal. Find the clamp on the terminal, which has a nut on top of it. Loosen that nut with a wrench. Slide the clamp off of the negative battery terminal, making sure it doesnt touch metal or the positive terminal.

3

Wait 30 minutes while the computer resets itself, thus clearing all codes.

4

Reattach the clamp to the negative terminal and tighten the nut. Lower the hood of the car.

5

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Verify the electronic steering wheel light is shut off the instrument panel.

Wheel studs keep your wheels secured to your vehicle. When installing new wheels, the existing wheel studs may extend too far beyond the front face of the wheel hub. This causes the end of the studs to hit the inside of a lug nut before the lug nut tightens against the wheel. Cutting the wheel studs will shorten the stud length and allow the lug nuts to secure your new wheels to the rotors of your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Set the wheel on the wheel studs. Screw a lug nut onto one wheel stud until it bottoms out on the stud.

2

Measure the distance between the front of the wheel hub and the bottom of the lug nut with a tape measure.

3

Remove the lug nut from the wheel stud. Pull the wheel off the vehicle. Measure in from the end of the wheel stud with the tape measure. Mark the distance measured between the wheel hub and the lug nut with a permanent marker.

4

Thread a hex nut onto the marked wheel stud. Turn the hex nut clockwise until the nut passes the mark left by the permanent marker.

5

Secure a .040 cutting wheel to an angle grinder.

6

Align the cutting wheel with the mark on the stud. Adjust the grinder to sit perpendicular to the stud. Cut straight through the wheel stud.

7

Turn the hex nut counterclockwise until you reach the burr left at the end of the wheel stud. Turn the nut past the burr with an adjustable wrench.

The steering wheel in a 2002 Pontiac Firebird is held to the steering column with a non-reusable nut. The drivers side airbag unit covers the nut and also contains the horn pad. In order to access the nut, you must disable the air bag system and caully remove the airbag unit from the steering wheel. Removing the steering wheel is a common step in many repair procedures, such as removing the dashboard and replacing the vehicles heater core.

Instructions

Removal

1

Rotate the steering wheel so the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then turn off the ignition switch and take out the key.

2

Open the drivers side door and remove the left instrument panel fuse block door. Remove the 15-amp airbag fuse and set it aside. Remove the screws holding the drivers side lower dashboard cover to the dashboard with a metric nut driver, then remove the cover. Disconnect the yellow airbag electrical connector at the base of the steering column.

3

Disconnect the negative battery terminal with an 8 mm wrench. Tilt the steering wheel to its maximum downward position. Remove the screws on the back side of the airbag unit with a T-30 Torx bit and a ratchet.

4

Pull the airbag unit off of the steering wheel and disconnect its electrical connector by gently raising the locking tab with a small flat-head screwdriver, then removing the connector from the airbag unit. Remove the airbag unit from the vehicle.

5

Remove the steering wheel lock nut with a ratchet and a metric socket. Push the horn ground lead inward and rotate it counterclockwise to disengage its locking tab, then pull it out of the steering wheel.

6

Attach a steering wheel puller to the steering wheel. Tighten the center bolt on the steering wheel puller with a ratchet and socket until the wheel is free from the steering shaft. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.

Installation

7

Set the steering wheel into position on the steering shaft and thread a new nut onto the steering shaft spindle. Tighten the nut and watch while it draws the steering wheel down to the bottom of the spindle shaft. Torque the nut to 32 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and verify that the wheel is fully-seated.

8

Insert the horn lead back into its mounting hole and rotate the connector clockwise until it locks into position.

9

Reconnect the airbags electrical connector and reinstall the Torx screws holding the bag unit to the wheel. Torque the bag retaining screws to 25 inch-pounds.

10

Reconnect the airbag connector at the base of the steering shaft and reinstall the lower dashboard cover.

11

Replace the 15-amp airbag fuse and reinstall the left instrument panel cover. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

A growling or humming noise when driving down the road is a sign of potential trouble. If you swerve the steering wheel and the noise changes, the culprit is probably a wheel bearing. Usually, this only occurs on one side. Determine which side has failed by lifting the front of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand. Often, you can hear the noise in the side that has failed. The failed hub and bearing may also feel loose when you grab the tire by the top and bottom, and pull in and out.



Dodge Caravans use a sealed hub and bearing. This means that the only replaceable parts are the wheel studs. The bearing cannot be lubricated, and in case of failure, the complete hub and bearing must be replaced.

Instructions

Removal/Disassembly

1

Raise the vehicle using a suitable floor jack. The correct lift points for the Dodge Caravan are located under the floor pan and body. They are marked by small downward pointing triangles. Place the jack under this point, and lift. When finished lifting, place a safety stand in a position where it will support the vehicle if the jack fails.

2

Use a wheel nut wrench to remove the five wheel nuts. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. You may want to enlist a helper to hold the brake pedal to make the removal process easier.

3

Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft. A cotter pin is a thin piece of metal that looks like a sewing pin, with a rounded piece at the top. The bottom part is split and bent both ways to prevent it from coming out. Remove the nut lock and spring washer as well. While a helper holds the brake pedal, remove the axle shaft nut on the end of the axle shaft.

4

Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Gently remove the brake caliper from the rotor, and support its weight with a coat hanger or bungee cord. If the brake rotor has never been off the vehicle, look for a small clip on one of the wheel studs. Remove this clip with pliers, and discard it. You will not need to re-use this--it is for assembly-line purposes.

5




Slide the brake rotor off the hub and bearing. If the rotor is stuck, apply penetrating lubricant to the area where the brake rotor meets the hub and bearing. Let it soak for 30 minutes, and try again. If it is still stuck, tap it gently with a hammer around the area where you sprayed penetrating lubricant. If the rotor still will not come off, you may tap the back of the rotor gently with a hammer to remove it.

6

Push in on the axle shaft end, to disengage it from the splines that are part of the hub and bearing assembly. On the back of the steering knuckle, there are four hub and bearing mounting bolts. Using a socket wrench, remove these four bolts. Be careful not to come in contact with the tone wheel on the axle. The tone wheel is a round piece on the axle shaft with teeth cast in it. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

Installation

7

Clean the mounting surface on the steering knuckle carefully. Install the hub and bearing onto the splines of the axle shaft. Move the hub and bearing into the steering knuckle, until it is squarely seated on the knuckle.

8




Install the four hub and bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Tighten these bolts in a criss-cross pattern, to 45 foot-lbs. of torque.

9

Place the brake rotor on the wheel studs, pushing it back completely onto the hub and bearing assembly. Install the brake caliper and adapter assembly onto the brake rotor, pushing it down until the two bolt holes in the caliper align with the holes in the steering knuckle. Install the two bolts from the inside of the steering knuckle. Tighten these two bolts to 125 foot-lbs. of torque.

10

Install the hub nut on the end of the axle shaft. Use a helper to hold the brake pedal. Tighten the axle nut to 180 foot-lbs. of torque. Install the spring washer and nut lock onto the axle nut. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the end of the axle shaft, and split the cotter pin at the end, bending the ends apart, to secure the axle nut.

11

Install tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 100 foot-lbs. of torque, using the helper to hold the brakes as necessary. Remove the safety stand, and lower the vehicle.

A turbocharger is a gas compressor used to generate power in an internal combustion engine. Having your turbocharger wheel repaired is more economical than purchasing a new one.

Problems

One of the most common causes of turbocharger performance problems is failing shaft bearings. This causes the compressor and turbine wheels to rub together, resulting in damaged wheels, a slower wheel speed, less pressure and severely decreased performance.

Replacement

If the shaft bearings are damaged or have failed, replace the shaft and turbine wheel. As this involves welding, doing this yourself is not recommended. This also involves wheel balancing, another task that should be entrusted to a professional.

Cleaning

Some performance issues may be solved by cleaning. Clean turbochargers wheels using a solvent and wire brush. Abrasive cleaning materials and sandblasting should be avoided.

Unlike many repair tasks, removing the steering wheel on a 1993 Chevrolet Blazer cannot be accomplished with only a screwdriver or a socket wrench. The procedure requires a special pulling tool that can be ordered online or purchased at your local auto parts store. There are several reasons why you might wish to remove your steering wheel. If you are customizing the interior of your Blazer, you may want to replace the factory steering wheel with an aftermarket part. Likewise, if you are replacing dashboard components, the steering wheel might be an obstacle and may need to be removed.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Chevy Blazer and disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Let a few minutes pass before proceeding to ensure that residual power in the vehicles electrical system has dissipated. Doing this will disable the Blazers airbags so they wont be accidentally deploy while you are working on the steering wheel.

2

Pry the horn pad off the steering wheel using a screwdriver wrapped in tape to prevent accidental damage to the pad or the steering wheel. Do this slowly and carefully, as wiring is attached to the pad.

3

Disconnect the wiring from the back of the horn pad. Remove the pad completely from the steering wheel. This will expose a small space at the center of the wheel.

4

Remove the retaining nut at the center of the steering wheel using a socket wrench with an extension.

5

Inspect the bolt and steering wheel for any alignment marks made during a previous removal of the steering wheel. If there are no marks, draw a line connecting the bolt and the steering wheel. You will need these marks if you intend to reinstall the same steering wheel.

6

Fit the steering wheel puller tool over the center of the steering wheel. Fasten the tools bolts to matching screw openings in the center of the steering wheel.

7

Turn the steering wheel puller handle repeatedly until the Blazers steering wheel detaches from the shaft.

If the ABS light on your dashboard is on continuously, it may mean you need to replace a wheel hub assembly. If you are not sure which one it might be, have the car inspected by a professional. Replacing a wheel hub assembly requires some special tools, but if you have them, then this project is well on its way to being completed. If you dont have them, they can usually be rented at a tool rental establishment. Remember to chock the wheels to prevent injury and always set the emergency brake.

Instructions

1

Park the car on level ground and place a block under the front wheel if doing the back or the back wheel if doing the front. Jack the car up accordingly and place jack stands underneath the car and let the jack down so the car rests on the jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate and remove the brake caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Support the caliper with a bungee cord. Remove the brake pads if needed, but remember where they are so you can replace them in the same order.

3

Take the rotor off. If it sticks, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it up. Locate the ABS wire connected to the hub and trace it back to the plug, if applicable.

4

Break the spindle nut loose with the breaking bar and the spindle nut socket. Remove it along with the washer behind it.

5

Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts. Remove them with the breaking bar and socket.

6

Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure it with the lug nuts. Pay close attention to the bearing to prevent injury while using the slide hammer. In addition, remember how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to replace it in the same manner.

7

Sand the rust and corrosion off of the knuckle with medium to fine grade sandpaper. Clean it as good as you can so the new bearing fits snugly.

8

Place the new backing plate back where it belongs followed by the new bearing, aligning the splines as you go into the center of the hub. Thread the wheel bearing assembly bolts and tighten them down alternating between bolts to keep the bearings straight as they slide back into place. Tighten them as tight as you can with the breaking bar and the socket.

9

Install the new the washer and spindle nut and torque them properly followed by the brakes and the ABS plug. Next, put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts down.

Wheels are secured to a vehicle with a stud bolt and a lug nut. Over time, the stud bolts can become damaged and need replacement. Stud bolts are pressed into the wheel hub and cannot be removed as normal bolts can. Most vehicles have four or five studs per wheel while some vehicles have more.

Instructions

Remove the Wheel Hub Assembly

1

Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Do not remove them at this time.

2

Raise the vehicle in the air with the floor jack and place the jack stand in a secure place.

3

Lower that car until it sits securely on the jack stand. Shake the car to ensure that it rests safely on the stand.

4

Remove the lug nuts. Take the wheel and the tire off of the vehicle.

5

Remove the brake caliper and caliper mounting bracket with the socket and ratchet. With mechanics wire, hang the caliper from the vehicle, being careful not to pull or stretch the rubber brake like.

6

Remove the brake rotor by pulling it away from its resting position on the wheel studs.

7

Loosen the bolts holding the wheel bearing/hub assembly to the vehicle. Unthread them about halfway. Drive out the wheel bearing by striking the wheel bearing bolts with a hammer. Make sure to work your way around the bolts to drive out the bearing as straight as possible.

Remove and Replace Wheel Studs

8

Secure the wheel hub assembly into the vice. Be careful not to damage the dust cap on the back.

9

Thread a lug nut over each of the studs to be removed. Drive each stud out of the wheel hub assembly. Remove the lug nut from the wheel stud and discard the wheel stud. Repeat this process for all of the wheel studs to be removed.

10

Place a new wheel stud into the wheel stud hole and thread a lug nut over the new stud.

11

Pull the new stud into position with the socket and ratchet to tighten the lug nut. Tighten only until the back of the new stud fits flat with the back of the hub. Remove the lug nut. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all of the studs are properly secured.

12

Remove the wheel hub assembly from the vice.

Reinstall the Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly

13

Place the wheel hub into position; it will not fit in all the way. Thread the hub bolts into the wheel hub by hand until tight.

14

Gently draw the wheel hub back into position by tightening each hub bolt with the socket and ratchet set. Tighten one bolt two full turns and move to the next. Work your way around the hub assembly until it has been completely set into place. Torque down the hub assembly bolts and look to make sure the hub assembly sits flush with its holding component.

15

Slide the brake rotor over the new studs and replace the caliper bracket by reinstalling the caliper bracket bolts with the socket and ratchet.

16

Place the brake caliper back into position. Be sure to check that both brake pads sit in the proper position.

17

Reinstall the caliper mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Discard the mechanics wire. Smooth out any kinks or sharp bends in the rubber brake line.

Difficult steering is a safety hazard while on the road, and also makes control of the vehicle extremely difficult. Any signs of difficult steering require immediate attention. The Toyota Camry uses a standard power steering assembly that contains a reservoir, pump and belt and pulley system connected to the steering column on one side and the drive train on the other. You can fix many causes of difficult steering by replacing the power steering belt or by adding power steering fluid. However, more-complex repairs might require you to hire a certified mechanic.

Instructions

1

Verify the tire pressure to ensure that the tires are properly inflated to the level indicated on the tire. Low tires will affect the steering by making the wheels difficult to turn. Fill the Camrys tires with air to the proper level.

2

Open the reservoir -- located on the right side of the Camry engine -- for the power steering fluid, and check that it is at the proper level and that it is not black or thick. It should be a dark red and have the consistency of syrup. Low or old steering fluid affects the power steering and will even lock up the steering wheel if it is too low. Replace the fluid or top it off as necessary.

3

Look for any leaks or loose hoses between the steering column and the power steering unit and the unit and the drive train. Replace any hoses or connectors that show signs of leaks or are simply old.

4

Examine the power steering belt for signs of frays or kinks. Replace the belt with a new one to prevent any steering control issues.

5

Start the engine and look for leaks while the steering fluid in the pump is under pressure.

6

Have an assistant turn the wheels from side to side to listen for noises that indicate damage to the belt or power steering pump. Have a new power steering pump installed by a professional.

7

Lift the small pulley located between the power steering unit and the steering column with your hand, and verify that the belt is not kinked at the pulley or that the pulley is not in some way damaged. Watch the pulley operate with the engine running and the assistant again turning the wheels from side to side. Replace the pulley if it is in any way damaged or causing the belt to not move freely.

8

Lubricate the tie rods and ball joints at the front end of the vehicle. Dry, damaged or worn tie rods and ball joints will make it difficult to easily turn the wheels. Have new rods or ball joints installed by a certified mechanic to ensure proper and safe driving.

Finding a wheel lock or clamp on the wheel of your car is a frustrating experience for any driver. Police departments frequently use parking wheel locks to immobilize vehicles that have a certain number of unpaid tickets. Once the tickets are paid, officers remove the wheel lock, and the driver can get back on the road. While it is not recommended to remove a law enforcement wheel lock without authorization, since that is an illegal act and will likely result in steeper fines, there are ways of removing a wheel lock if you need to in an emergency.

Instructions

1

Insert the key for the wheel lock into the keyhole of the lock if you have the key handy. Some devices use laser-encrypted keys so only the original key will open the lock and remove the clamp. Turn the key and the lock should pop open.

2

Unscrew the bead from the tire to expose the tire stem if you dont have a key for the lock.

3

Press the end of the bead into the tire stem to open up the valve and deflate the air from the tire. Youll likely need to remove most of the air from the tire to slide the clamp off.

4

Pull the clamp off. You may need to jack the car up to get it off effectively, depending on the make and model of the lock.

5

Re-inflate your tire with an air pump.