Repair 7

There are times when your vehicles shock absorbers freeze, thereby impairing the proper functioning of your suspension system. Releasing the frozen shock absorbers remains a matter of getting in the right position to apply enough torque after lubricating the absorbers with penetrating oil. Applying new absorbers to the suspension system will have you up and running in no time. It is imperative to release the frozen absorbers because your suspension system depends on the absorbers to control the motion of the vehicle. Shock absorbers prevent your vehicle from bouncing on the flexing spring. The absorbers transfer energy created by the spring to a piston, which releases the heat.

Instructions

1

Position the jack by using the jacking points of the vehicle, allowing the jack to support the weight of the car. Then lift slightly without lifting the wheels from the ground. Loosen wheel nuts with a wheel brace and remove the wheels. Raise the car slowly until the tires are just above ground.

2

Remove the interior covering in the trunk to access the upper shock mounting nuts. If needed, use the pliers and wrench to remove hardware to access the lower shock mounting nuts.

3

Spray the upper and lower shock mounting nuts and absorbers with the penetrating oil and allow the oil to soak into the parts before attempting to remove. Wait at least 10 minutes.

4

Dislodge the lower and upper mounting nuts and washers with the wrench and pliers, and remove the old shock absorber.

5

Mount the lower shock mounting nuts and new shock absorber. Tighten the lower mounting bolts to secure torque with the wrench.

6

Install upper grommets and upper mounting nuts. Make sure all grommets are installed in the proper place. Reinstall the wheels. Lower the vehicle and jounce the vehicle four times to settle the grommets.

Knowing how to safely lift any vehicle and support it onto jack stands is important, no matter what make or model the vehicle is. The Ford Taurus is no exception. If lifting one axle on the Taurus (front or rear), a single set of jack stands will be required. If lifting both axles, you will need two sets of stands. In addition, while the factory-supplied scissor jacks for emergency roadside repair will safely lift the Taurus, a better and safer option would be using a hydraulic floor jack.

Instructions

1

Place the two wheel chocks against the front and rear of a tire (doesnt matter which one) on the opposite axle from which the Taurus is being lifted first (if raising both axles).

2

Place the block of wood on the cradle of the floor jack and align it beneath the rocker panel seam of the Ford Taurus (front or rear). The wood block will help prevent bending or damaging the rocker panel seam Turn the handle of the jack clockwise as far as it will go to activate the hydraulic lift.

3

Pump the handle to raise the cradle and block of wood, making sure the alignment of the wood and cradle is centered to the rocker panel seam before contacting it.

4

Continue to pump the jack handle until the corner of the Taurus is elevated high enough to allow the jack stand to be placed under it. For front axle, place the jack stand(s) under the front frame rail (about 10 inches in from the rocker panel seam) of the Taurus. Theres one frame rail each for drivers and passengers sides, but the rail only runs about half the length of the Ford Taurus, so using the rail for rear axle support is not an option. For the rear axle support, place the jack stand(s) near the jack under the rocker panel seam.

5

Turn the handle of the jack counterclockwise slowly to release the hydraulic tension on the jack and allow the Taurus to slowly lower and contact the arm of the jack stand. Be sure the alignment of the arm of the stand is located directly beneath the front frame rail or rear rocker panel seam respectively.

6

Repeat the procedure for the opposite side of the same axle using the jack and the block of wood. If lifting all four corners, lift the opposite axle and support it onto jack stands (one side at a time) after one axle is secured onto jack stands.

The spark plug is a vital component in the operation of an internal combustion engine. As the name implies, the spark plug creates a spark that ignites gasoline inside a combustion chamber. This creates the energy to force the piston downward. The movement of the pistons gives the engine its power. To make sure that the engine operates as smoothly and efficiently as possible, it needs to be tuned up on a regular basis. An important part of that tune-up is removing and replacing the spark plugs, a process thats fairly straightforward.

Instructions

1

Make sure the engine is cool. The spark plugs are one of the hottest components of an engine.

2

Clean any dirt or debris from around the base of the plug to keep dirt from falling into the combustion chamber. Use compressed air to blow debris away if it is available.

3

Use your owners manual to find the spark plugs. Most engines have spark plugs wires that lead to the spark plugs. Newer engines may have individual ignition coils mounted over the spark plugs.

4

Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug by pulling on the rubber boot. Do not pull on the wire itself. If equipped with ignition coils, remove the ignition coil mounting bolt to remove the coil and reveal the spark plug.

5

Install the spark plug socket on the socket wrench. You may need to use a swivel joint or a socket wrench extension to reach spark plugs in the back of the engine.

6

Place the socket over the spark plug and turn the socket wrench counterclockwise to loosen the spark plug. Use steady force to remove a stubborn plug. Too much force can shear off the top of a spark plug or strip the threads.

7

Continue to turn the wrench until the spark plug comes out of the hole. Once loosened, you should be able to remove it by hand.

Catalytic converters use various types of metals to scrub pollutants from a vehicles exhaust before it leaves the tail pipe. Generally, catalytic converters will last the life of a Mercedes 560SL, but some factors, such as using unleaded gasoline or too many fuel additives, can contribute to the premature failure of the catalytic converter.

Loss of Power

A stopped up catalytic converter will cause a sudden loss of power in a Mercedes 560SL. Sometimes catalytic converters break down slowly over time, causing a gradual loss in power, which may not be noticeable to some drivers. If your Mercedes will not accelerate, even if you stomp on the accelerator pedal, have a mechanic take a look at the catalytic converter to see if it is stopped up. If this is the case, the catalytic converter will need to be replaced.

Drop in Fuel Economy

Measure the gas mileage your car is getting, especially since a sudden drop in fuel economy can indicate mechanical problems. A stopped up catalytic converter will cause a significant drop in fuel economy, more than two or three miles per gallon difference.

Engine Problems

A clogged catalytic converter will also cause operating problems with your Mercedes engine. Besides the loss in power, a stopped up catalytic converter can inhibit how quickly a vehicle travels, making it top out at a low speed like an electronic speed governor. The clogged catalytic converter will cause increased back pressure in the exhaust system, which will choke the engine as exhaust gases cannot leave as quickly as they should. If your car runs for a few minutes then stalls out, if you can hear a whistling sound or your cars engine seems to be struggling during acceleration, take a look at the catalytic converter as the potential cause.

Smell

If your 560SLs tailpipe is spewing out a smell similar to rotting eggs, there is a high chance that the catalytic converter is partially clogged. The broken down elements of the catalytic converter emit this rancid smell, which is very noticeable.

A tune up ers to preventive maintenance that focuses on the cars engine. At the most basic level, a tuneup is replacing specific parts in a specific time frame.

What is a tune up?

A tune up will always replace: spark plugs, fuel filter, spark plug wires, ignition rotor and distributor cap (if the car is so equipped). Additionally, the throttle bore and throttle plate should be cleaned and adjusted. Performing this maintenance keeps clean air and fuel moving into the engine, in addition to ensuring that the spark plugs ignite the fuel at optimal levels.

When do I perform a tune up?

It depends on how your car is equipped. Platinum tipped spark plugs can last up to 100,000 miles. Cheaper plugs may last only 30,000 miles.

Can I do this myself?

There are many guide books and websites that can teach you to perform your own tune ups. A tune up is about as simple as modern car maintenance can get. A tune up is also fairly cheap to have done at a reputable auto shop. Doing your own tune up depends on your individual comfort level.

Scratches in automotive paint are an eyesore and can allow water to corrode the sheet metal if the scratch continues into the primer underneath the paint. Touching up the scratch will hide the eyesore and provide protection against rust damage. Bottle painters have a brush attached to the lid that allows you to apply automotive touch up paint to a scratch or other blemish without specialized painting tools.

Instructions

1

Add one teaspoon of dishwashing soap to a plastic bucket. Fill the bucket with water. Thoroughly wash the vehicle with the soapy water. Rinse the vehicle with clean water and allow it to dry for one hour. Dispose of the soapy water. Rinse the bucket and fill it with three to four inches of clean water.

2

Place a piece of 600-grit sandpaper in the bucket of clean water. Let the sandpaper soak in the water for 10 to 15 minutes

3

Sand the scratch with the wet 600-grit sandpaper. Place the sandpaper back in the water every one to two minutes to keep the sanding area wet. Rinse sanding debris from the paint with clean water.

4

Remove the cap from the bottle painter. Apply paint to the scratch with the brush attached to the lid of the bottle painter. Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours.

5

Set a piece of 1000-grit sandpaper in clean water. Allow the sandpaper to soak for 10 minutes. Sand the paint until it blends into the surrounding area.

6

Remove the cap from a clear coat bottle painter. Apply clear coat to the scratch with the brush. Allow the clear coat to dry for 24 hours.

First available from GM in 1982, the 6.2L diesel engine was originally an option for sports utility vehicles, full-size pickup trucks, and other utility vehicles. With the dual perks of added fuel economy and durability, 6.2L diesel engines in GM two-wheel drive (2WD) and four-wheel drive (4WD) trucks were given gross vehicle weight ratings of up to 10,000 pounds. Additionally-equipped vehicles boast a capacity of over 13,000 pounds. A strong engine requires regular tune-ups and care to stay in prime operating condition.

Oil Lubricant

Oil lubricant is a necessity for the proper operation of the 6.2L diesel engine. Used for the lubrication of the engine, the oil for diesel engines is specially formulated and must remain at a certain level and consistency to provide the best functionality. Oil should be checked a minimum of once weekly. A common occurrence is the immediate change of newly-replaced oil to a dark black color after only a brief running of the engine. This does not mean that anything is wrong with the oil, but is rather a side-effect of the engine. Knowing how to change the oil can also save the owner money, since professionals charge as much as four times the amount to change fluids in a diesel engine than they charge for a regular gas engine.

Oil Filter

When changing the oil, the oil filter should be changed as well. Consulting the manual for the particular vehicle will inform owners of the optimal and maximum time allowed between filter changes. However, due to the heat and pressure generated by a diesel engine, the oil and filter may become contaminated more quickly that in a non-diesel engine vehicle.

Mechanical Injection Pump

The mechanical injection pump assists in the movement of the diesel fuel throughout the engine; therefore, it is important to ensure that no leakage is occurring. It is not uncommon for the seals on the injection pump to shrink when cold and allow fuel to leak out. At times, this problem is corrected through the warming of the engine, which causes the seal to swell, plugging any leaking. In order to check and perform repairs on the injection pump, it is necessary to remove the oil filler, intake manifold, and bolts. Be sure that the engine has fully cooled before attempting to work on any component. To gain access to these components, the crankshaft should be slowly turned in a clockwise direction with a 24 mm socket wrench. All wires and hoses should be removed from the pump, if it is necessary to separate it from the engine. Injector lines can be tricky, so it is important to be careful. In addition, ground wires should be removed from the batteries to avoid any mishaps.