Repair 7

The two-stroke motorcycle engine is a contradiction. Despite their bare-bones mechanical simplicity, they tend to require far more attention to keep them performing than their larger brothers. Oil must be caully added to the fuel mixture in the correct proportions, and regular rebuilds are not uncommon. Following such a rebuild, it is advisable to complete a period of Running-In to ease the engine back into performing, without putting it under sudden strain. There are countless interpretations of how to do this, but several principles hold true across all of them.

Instructions

1

Start the bike, and allow it to idle for a few minutes until the engine is up to temperature. Do not lean the bike on its side stand, as this will cause the oil to collect in one side of the crank case. Use the center stand, or sit on the bike if it does not have one. Turn off the bike. An important characteristic of the running-in process is gradually increasing the periods of time for which the bike is running. Once it has cooled enough to touch, start it again.

2

Ride the machine for a short 5- to 10-minute run, keeping the throttle below 50 percent, and ensuring that all other components; brakes, shifting, steering, etc.; are all functioning OK. Return home, and allow the bike to cool down completely again. This will generally take at least 30 minutes, but the longer the better. You should be able to touch the pipes and radiator without feeling any residual heat.

3

Start the bike again, and head out for another ride. This time, the throttle can be pushed to 60 percent. After 10 to 15 minutes, return home again, and allow the bike to cool once more. Repeat this process another four times, increasing your throttle limit by 10 percent on each run, every time allowing the bike to cool down completely every time.

4

Ensure all fasteners are still fully tightened. Your two-stroke engine should now be ticking over smoothly. Allowing the engine to properly cool after each run helps small quantities of oil to act as a seal at the points where different components meet, reducing the possibility of damaging the pistons.

The 1987 Mustang belongs to the third generation of this series, which was in production from 1979 to 1993. It had a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine. This engine uses a timing belt to ensure that the cylinder valves open and close at the correct point in the cylinders compression cycle. The timing belt for a 1987 Mustang with a 2.3-liter engine should last about 60,000 miles before requiring replacement.

Instructions

1

Remove the access plug on the outer timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the engine block. The timing mark on the camshaft sprocket must also align with the timing mark on the inner cover of the timing belt.

2

Loosen the adjuster bolts for the accessory drive belts with a socket wrench, and remove the drive belts. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the hub of the water pump. Remove the mounting bolt for the outer cover of the timing belt, and disconnect the timing belt cover. Detach the distributor cap from the distributor so you can push the distributor cap out of the way.

3

Loosen the adjustment and pivot bolts for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Pull the tensioner away from the timing belt as far as possible and tighten the adjustment bolt to hold the tensioner in place. Disconnect the crankshaft pulley and the guide plate for the timing belt that is behind the pulley. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, auxiliary drive shaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Center the timing belt on the sprockets. Loosen the adjustment bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench to place tension on the timing belt.

5

Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise to remove the slack in the timing belt, and ensure the timing marks are aligned. Tighten the adjustment bolt on the timing belt tensioner to between 14 and 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the pivot bolt on the belt tensioner to between 28 and 40 ft. lbs.

6

Connect the distributor cap to the distributor. Install the guide plate for the timing belt, outer timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Connect the pulley for the water pump and the cooling fan. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust their tension. Start the engine and check the timing of the ignition.

Replacing the head gaskets on a Subaru 2.5 is a procedure that may be completed while the engine is still in the car. It is a challenging task that should be attempted only by someone with considerable mechanical skill and a full set of automotive service tools both metric and standard. Always wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from caustic chemicals and gasoline. Always have a fire extinguisher handy.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system by removing the gas cap, disconnecting the fuel pump relay and running the engine until it stops. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If your vehicle is before 2002 and it has the factory vehicle theft system, follow the instructions in the owners manual to disable it or your radio will not function when you reconnect the battery. Drain the cooling system. Recover the coolant for reuse or recycling.

2

Remove the spark plugs, timing belt covers, belt, camshaft sprockets, camshafts and disconnect the exhaust manifolds (use penetrating oil to loosen the bolts if necessary). Remove the intake manifold and any other hoses, brackets or accessories that block access to the sides of the engine.

3

Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order for tightening. This is generally from the top center to the bottom center then an "X" pattern for the ends. Remove the heads and the old gasket material carefully. Place a clean shop towel in each cylinder to prevent debris contamination.

4

Use the acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the gasket mating surfaces. Carefully scrape any stuck material from the surfaces. They must be absolutely clean to seal properly. Install the new gasket onto the head locating dowels. Lubricate the head bolts with engine oil and install them finger tight.

5

Use the torque wrench and torque angle gauge to tighten the head bolts in the exact sequence outlined by the references. Over-tightening will strip the threads and improper sequence can warp the head.

As with many other cars, the exhaust gas redirection (EGR) system is part of a Ford vehicles emissions system. It is the same function in a Ford Escort 2.0 as it is for other Ford vehicles. Exhaust is redirected through the fueling system again, as a way to cut down on pollutants.

Location

The EGR system can be found near the intake manifold. The system itself contains exhaust lines, sensors and a valve. Problems often associated with a faulty EGR system include rough idling, stalling while idling and the engine surging at higher speeds.

Emissions

In the 1990s, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) mandated a stricter control over vehicle emissions. The EGR system helps refine exhaust and remove toxic chemicals. This keeps dangerous nitrogen oxide out of the atmosphere, where it could harm people.

Diagnostics

All 1999 Ford Escorts use the second generation on-board diagnostics (OBD) system. The EGR system is part of the Escorts powertrain and is regulated by the powertrain control module (PCM). Accessing EGR sensor data requires connecting to the Escorts PCM with an OBD-II code reader.

First available from GM in 1982, the 6.2L diesel engine was originally an option for sports utility vehicles, full-size pickup trucks, and other utility vehicles. With the dual perks of added fuel economy and durability, 6.2L diesel engines in GM two-wheel drive (2WD) and four-wheel drive (4WD) trucks were given gross vehicle weight ratings of up to 10,000 pounds. Additionally-equipped vehicles boast a capacity of over 13,000 pounds. A strong engine requires regular tune-ups and care to stay in prime operating condition.

Oil Lubricant

Oil lubricant is a necessity for the proper operation of the 6.2L diesel engine. Used for the lubrication of the engine, the oil for diesel engines is specially formulated and must remain at a certain level and consistency to provide the best functionality. Oil should be checked a minimum of once weekly. A common occurrence is the immediate change of newly-replaced oil to a dark black color after only a brief running of the engine. This does not mean that anything is wrong with the oil, but is rather a side-effect of the engine. Knowing how to change the oil can also save the owner money, since professionals charge as much as four times the amount to change fluids in a diesel engine than they charge for a regular gas engine.

Oil Filter

When changing the oil, the oil filter should be changed as well. Consulting the manual for the particular vehicle will inform owners of the optimal and maximum time allowed between filter changes. However, due to the heat and pressure generated by a diesel engine, the oil and filter may become contaminated more quickly that in a non-diesel engine vehicle.

Mechanical Injection Pump

The mechanical injection pump assists in the movement of the diesel fuel throughout the engine; therefore, it is important to ensure that no leakage is occurring. It is not uncommon for the seals on the injection pump to shrink when cold and allow fuel to leak out. At times, this problem is corrected through the warming of the engine, which causes the seal to swell, plugging any leaking. In order to check and perform repairs on the injection pump, it is necessary to remove the oil filler, intake manifold, and bolts. Be sure that the engine has fully cooled before attempting to work on any component. To gain access to these components, the crankshaft should be slowly turned in a clockwise direction with a 24 mm socket wrench. All wires and hoses should be removed from the pump, if it is necessary to separate it from the engine. Injector lines can be tricky, so it is important to be careful. In addition, ground wires should be removed from the batteries to avoid any mishaps.