Repair 7

Fuel tanks have built-in mechanisms to control the flow of gas and gas vapors into the engine. One such assembly is the fuel module assembly, which helps prevent vapors from escaping into the atmosphere as well as pumping fuel where it belongs.

Fuel System

The gas tank module assembly aids in the hard acceleration of vehicles and filters out junk that can clog up the carburetor. In the book "Classroom Manual for Automotive Fuels and Emissions," author Barry Hollembeak writes, "The fuel pump module assembly incorporates the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel gauge sending unit, and fuel temperature sensor (if used) in a single assembly."

Gas Tank Pickup Tube

The fuel tank pickup tube isnt always a part of the module assembly. When it is, it is attached by a fuel line. Its job is to pick up dirt, grime, rust and water before they clog up the fuel tank filter, causing the car to sputter along.

Liquid Vapor Separator

Inside of the tank are liquid vapor separators that also stop liquid fuel from invading the engine crankcase. It also stops liquid fuel from entering the area in which fuel vapors are stored. Fuel vapors are ignited, causing the combustion that actually powers the car.

If the ABS light on your dashboard is on continuously, it may mean you need to replace a wheel hub assembly. If you are not sure which one it might be, have the car inspected by a professional. Replacing a wheel hub assembly requires some special tools, but if you have them, then this project is well on its way to being completed. If you dont have them, they can usually be rented at a tool rental establishment. Remember to chock the wheels to prevent injury and always set the emergency brake.

Instructions

1

Park the car on level ground and place a block under the front wheel if doing the back or the back wheel if doing the front. Jack the car up accordingly and place jack stands underneath the car and let the jack down so the car rests on the jack stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Locate and remove the brake caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Support the caliper with a bungee cord. Remove the brake pads if needed, but remember where they are so you can replace them in the same order.

3

Take the rotor off. If it sticks, tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it up. Locate the ABS wire connected to the hub and trace it back to the plug, if applicable.

4

Break the spindle nut loose with the breaking bar and the spindle nut socket. Remove it along with the washer behind it.

5

Locate the wheel bearing assembly bolts. Remove them with the breaking bar and socket.

6

Install the slide hammer onto the lug studs and secure it with the lug nuts. Pay close attention to the bearing to prevent injury while using the slide hammer. In addition, remember how the backing plate is installed between the knuckle and the bearing to replace it in the same manner.

7

Sand the rust and corrosion off of the knuckle with medium to fine grade sandpaper. Clean it as good as you can so the new bearing fits snugly.

8

Place the new backing plate back where it belongs followed by the new bearing, aligning the splines as you go into the center of the hub. Thread the wheel bearing assembly bolts and tighten them down alternating between bolts to keep the bearings straight as they slide back into place. Tighten them as tight as you can with the breaking bar and the socket.

9

Install the new the washer and spindle nut and torque them properly followed by the brakes and the ABS plug. Next, put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts down.

The engine accessories on the 1997 Dodge Dakota V6 engine are driven by a single drive belt. The belt is routed around all of the engine accessories in such a way that it operates each accessory. As the belt is being driven around the alternator, the air conditioner pump, the power steering pump and the water pump, it enables the accessories to function. Excessive exposure to the heat of the engine can cause the belt to fray. If you notice fraying or excessive cracking on the belt, change it as soon as possible before it breaks.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and lock it in place.

2

Locate the big crankshaft pulley on the bottom center of the engine. Wrap the belt around the bottom of the crankshaft pulley so that the ribs on the inside of the belt are seated inside the grooves of the crankshaft pulley.

3

Wrap the belt around the right side of the crankshaft pulley and over the top of the crankshaft pulley. Wrap the belt around the top of the water pump pulley with the flat surface of the belt inside the water pump pulley.

4

Pull the belt over to the power steering pump pulley. Route the belt completely around the power steering pump pulley, with the inside ribs of the belt seated inside the grooves of the power steering pump pulley.

5

Pull the belt over the top of the air conditioner pulley, with the ribs of the belt seated inside the pulley.

6

Pull the belt under the idler pulley, with the flat surface of the belt against the surface of the pulley.

7

Pull the belt up and around the alternator pulley, with the ribs of the belt seated inside the alternator pulley grooves.

8

Move back down to the crankshaft and pull the left side of the belt up and around the air pump pulley. The only pulley left is the belt tensioner pulley.

9

Locate the bolt head in the middle of the belt tensioner pulley. Position a breaker bar and a metric socket on the bolt head. Turn the breaker bar counterclockwise to move the tensioner out of the way of the belt. Slide the flat surface of the belt under the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar. Remove the breaker bar from the tensioner and the engine compartment.

10

Crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds to completely seat the belt inside each pulley.