Repair 7

When the oil pressure starts to drop in a diesel engine, problems set in. First, the oil is not fully spread across the engine, which contributes to further problems. Shaft bearings start to wear as a result, including the camshaft. Piston rings start to wear, leading to excessive oil burning. Overall, a snowball effect takes place, leading to eventual engine destruction. When the oil pressure goes low, all additives claim to "fix" the problem instantly. Correctly fixing the problem, however, involves extensive diagnosis, including analyzing the oil pump closely.

False Claims

Low oil pressure in a diesel engine indicates something is seriously wrong. Trying to use additives to correct low oil pressure is like putting a band aid on a broken leg. Some additive makers have been known to make false claims of correcting engine problems. For example, the Federal Trade Commission in 2001 brought charges against Zmax oil additive for deceptive advertising.

True Causes

The true causes of low oil pressure in a diesel engine are serious. First, check the oil level and type of oil you are using. The oil should be rated for diesel engines, and the proper viscosity must be used. The service department of the dealership that sells your make and model of vehicle can help you choose the right oil. If you are using the right oil, the next step is to suspect a faulty oil pump. Furthermore, Machinery Lubrication Magazine states that diesel fuel dilution causes low pressure at startup. A qualified diesel technician can assist you in diagnosing and correcting the problem.

Simple Cures

If the oil pressure is a little low, try some simple fixes. Using a thicker viscosity of oil might help. For example, suppose the manufacturer calls for using 5W-20 to 20W-30 for the oil weight. If you use 20W-30, this is slightly thicker. You are still staying within the recommended guidelines, but are using oil at the upper range of the recommended thickness scale. If you suspect fuel dilution, drain and change the oil and oil filter. This will get rid of the thinned out oil. You oil pump may be sensitive to changes like this, and perhaps the problem will self correct.

Steps To Take

Try the easy solutions first. If the oil pressure is just starting to go low, you may have to change the oil more often to overcome fuel dilution. Try to start your engine less frequently, as the experts state this leads to fuel dilution, particularly in cold weather. If the simple solutions do not resolve the problem, then professional expertise is needed to diagnose the root cause of the problem. Additives claim to correct problems, but these claims should be looked upon with skepticism.

Having a roof rack on your vehicle allows you to haul such things as outdoor sports gear, camping equipment, or luggage. By placing these things on your roof rack, it leaves more interior space for passengers or more gear. Knowing the specifications of your FJ Cruiser roof rack, you will be able to understand what the material you are working with, the weight capacity, the dimensions and special features that the rack offers.

Material

The undercoat paint of the roof rack is an epoxy powder to prevent rust. The outer paint helps prevent UV rays and accumulation of road dirt and debris. The support beams are steel or aluminum, depending on the manufacturer. The accessory bolts are also made of steel or aluminum.

Weight Capacity

The weight capacity of roof racks may vary depending on the brand and manufacturer you choose, the normal weight capacity range is 75 to 300 lbs. while driving and up to 600 lbs. of static load. Static load capacities are usually intended for roof top tents and occupants.

Dimensions

The dimensions, like the other specifications vary slightly depending on manufacturer. The average outer dimensions are 39 inches by 55 inches.

Features

One great feature of a FJ Cruiser roof rack is that you will not need to drill holes because you use the holes that are already available on the body of the vehicle. The beams of the roof rack for the FJ Cruiser are fully welded together to lower the chance of rattling. Front and rear supports are available for adding lights if you choose to add them. You can add a rear ladder to have better access to the roof if you like.

Vehicle manufacturers often recommend that their vehicles be taken back to the dealership for service and parts, in order to make certain all work is done properly and in accordance to any warranty specifications. Taking your Duramax diesel truck back to GM for service also improves its trade-in and re-sale value because you will have a documented service record proving the quality of care your vehicle has had during its time with you. There are several things you can do to maximize the service you get when you take your diesel truck to GM for service.

Qualifications

Before you take your Duramax diesel to the dealership for servicing, you need to talk to the dealerships service department and make certain that they have a certified Duramax diesel mechanic on staff to work on your trucks engine. Many dealerships and mechanic shops will hire uncertified technicians to do a lot of the minor repair jobs, but if you want the best quality work, you need to make sure everyone who will be touching your vehicle has been officially certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). Uncertified mechanics may not have had the proper training or developed the skills they need to perform proper repairs on your vehicle. Improperly done repairs can lead to a number of different headaches down the road.

If your nearest GM dealership does not have an ASE or certified diesel mechanic on staff and available to work on your truck, find a different dealership to take your vehicle to. Make sure to document your request for a certified mechanic in the paperwork when you drop your truck off.

Documentation

Document every communication between yourself and the dealership in writing. When you bring your vehicle in for service, provide the mechanics with a list of problems that you are experiencing to make sure that they are aware of all problems and none will be forgotten during the repair process. Make sure you get a list of every part that was adjusted or changed on your vehicle, as well as information about replacement warranties. Most replacement auto parts come with some form of warranty. If you believe the repair on your vehicle should fall under warranty, read your warranty and bring a copy of it with you when you take your vehicle in for servicing.

Educate Yourself

The best protection for any diesel truck owner who is bringing a vehicle in for repairs is a solid understanding of how the engine, in this case the Duramax, works and what needs to be repaired. Read your owner manual and any recall information to keep tabs on potential problems.

A strong understanding of the problem and solution will make you an educated consumer. Being well educated about your truck means you will be able to understand what your mechanic is telling you is wrong with the vehicle as well as the benefits and potential ramifications of repairs. Do not be afraid to ask your mechanic plenty of questions until you can thoroughly grasp the problem.

Being well educated about your truck will also help you avoid unnecessary work that the dealership may promote in order to increase their profit margin.

Sportsters come equipped with rear directional signals installed to the rearmost hole of the rear fender trim. The disconnectible turn signals leads branch off the rear wiring harness inside the rear fender. Sportster turn signals are usually relocated or reinstalled to accommodate saddlebag mounts. Sometimes the turn signals are changed for purely aesthetic reasons. Signals can be shaped like Maltese Crosses, skulls, spades and other outlaw icons. In some jurisdictions it is legal to run only "whisker" turn signals which are integral to the license plate frame. The wiring is approximately the same for all these installations. The Harley rear turn signal relocation kit installs with moderate ease.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster on a motorcycle jack high enough for the rear wheel to hang down. Set a flashlight or shop light under the rear fender so you can see what youre doing.

2

Unbolt the seat mounting bolt just behind the seat with an Allen wrench. Pull the seat up, back and off.

3

Loosen and remove the black battery cable from the negative battery post with an open end wrench.

4

Pry the small plug from the tail light access hole on the rear fender interior with a small screwdriver.

5

Pull the turn signal wiring harness inside the rear fender from the tail light housing. Unhook the signal wiring from the clips inside the rear fender.

6

Pull the two turn signal connections apart into male and female halves. Mark the socket halves with tape for future erence. Pull the turn signal wires from the two turn signal connections.

7

Loosen the screws on the rear of the fender trim on both sides of the Sportster with an Allen wrench. Remove the turn signals and the old mounting brackets from both sides of the bike.

8

Cut a piece of the shrink wrap tubing included with the turn signal relocation kit in half with a pair of shears. Slide the tubing over the exposed turn signal wires up to the signals for both sides of the Sportster. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

9

Push the turn signal lamps and wires on both sides of the fender completely through the small holes on both ends of the new taillight mounting bracket. Push the wires through the open holes in the rear fender trim.

10

Install the new turn signal brackets into the open holes on both sides of the fender by hand. Tighten the fender trim screws by hand.

11

Ensure the wires from both turns signals are inside the rear fender. Tighten the fender trim screws with an Allen wrench.

12

Connect the turn signal wires to the signal connections inside both sides of the fender. Arrange the turn signals so they face back and tighten the hex nut and washer on both signals with an open end wrench.

13

Connect the turn signal wires to the female half of both turn signal connectors on both sides of the fender by hand. Plug the female and male halves of the turn signal connectors back together by hand.

14

Push the loose wires and the gray tail lamp connector back into the tail lamp housing inside the fender. Replace the plug into the tail light access hole in the rear fender.

15

Route the turn signal wires along the inside edges of the fender and secure with cable ties.

If you have lost your keyless remote for your 2000 Honda, you can buy a replacement remote. The replacement wont work until you manually program it for your car. You must have a key to the ignition and be able to turn on the car; this will enter the car into programming mode. If you fulfill a few basic security steps to prove that you have access to the car, you will be able to program any number of keyless remotes.

Instructions

1

Insert the car key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. This will be the second click as you turn the key.

2

Press the "lock or "unlock" button on the keyless remote.

3

Turn the car key back to the locked position. This is also known as the "0" position because the key cannot be twisted anymore to the left. You will know if the key is in the "0" position if the key can be pulled out of the car.

4

Repeat steps 1 through 3 two more times, and be sure to use the same keyless remote each time. You should have now completed steps 1 through 3 three times.

5

Turn the ignition key to the "on" or "II" position by turning the key until you feel it click twice.

6

Press either the "lock" or "unlock" button on the keyless remote. You will now be in programming mode. If done properly, the power locks on the doors will lock and unlock automatically.

7

Press the "lock" or "unlock" button one more time. This should be done for any keyless remote you wish to program. You will know it is done correctly when the car locks automatically.

8

Turn the ignition back to the "0" or locked setting, and remove the key from the ignition.

A jig ensures that when parts are made, drilled, welded or bent, they are made exactly the same way as the jig and will fit the application they were designed for. A center drill jig for tubing would be designed to ensure that when using the jig, the holes you drill will be in the center of the tubing. Two methods for accomplishing this are the drill press method and the external drill jig.

Instructions

Drill Press Jig Method

1

Place a machined V-block onto a level drill press table.

2

Insert a large bit into the drill chuck. Bring the quill handle down so the bit centers perfectly into the V-block. You might need to reposition the V-block to match the drill-bit point perfectly. Release the quill and raise the drill bit.

3

Clamp the V-block to the level drill press table. Pull the quill handle down again to visually center the drill bit into the machined V-block again. This ensures that the V-block did not move during the clamping process. Recheck to be sure the drill bit is perfectly centered in the V-block.

4

Clamp a metal stop to the end of the V-block to adjust the depth of the hole you are drilling.

5

Remove the large drill bit and replace it with the correct size bit needed to center drill the tubing.

6

Place the tubing into the V-block and against the depth stop, turn on the drill and bring the quill down to drill the hole.

External Drill Jig Method

7

Cut a piece of triple wall tubing that fits snugly over the tubing you are drilling. Cut the triple wall tubing longer than the distance between the hole and the end of the tubing to be center drilled. For example, if the hole in the tubing is to be center drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, cut the triple wall tubing to 10 inches.

8

Place the triple wall tubing into the V-block of the drill press jig and drill a 5/16-inch hole all the way through the triple wall tubing a half-inch from one end. You might need to remove the triple wall tubing from the V-block once the drill bit begins to exit the bottom of the tubing, so that the drill does not damage the V-block.

9

Insert the 5/16-inch drill bit into the portable drill and finish drilling the 5/16-inch hole through the triple wall tubing. Place a long 5/16-inch bolt through the hole and tighten a nut onto it. This bolt will be the jig stop.

10

Measure the precise distance from the bolt stop to where the center drill hole is desired. For example, if the center hole is to be drilled eight inches from the end of the tubing, then measure precisely eight inches from the 5/16-inch drilled hole edge and mark that point with a prick punch.

11

Insert a 1/8-inch drill bit into the chuck on the drill press. Place the triple wall tubing into the drill press jig V-block so that the prick-punch mark aligns precisely with the drill bit point when the quill brings the drill down to meet the punch mark.

12

Clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Drill the 1/8-inch hole into the triple wall tubing. If the center hole is to go all the way through the tubing when it is drilled, then drill all the way through the triple wall tubing and stop drilling before the bit touches the V-block. Drill the remaining part of the hole with the 1/8-inch bit in the portable drill.

13

Re-clamp the triple wall tubing into the V-block. Bring the quill down so the 1/8-inch drill bit goes through both drilled holes in the triple wall tubing. Raise the quill on the drill press and change the drill bit in the chuck to the intended drill size and enlarge the hole.

14

Clamp the triple wall tubing jig into a vise. Place the undrilled tubing into the jig until it bottoms out on the 5/16-inch bolt. Insert the proper size drill bit into the portable drill, stick the drill bit into the jig and drill the tubing. If the hole needs to go all the way through the tubing, drill into the jig from both holes in the jig. For example, drill the fist hole, stop and place the drill in the other hole, 180 degrees from the first hole.

Most people find themselves searching for their car keys from time to time. More often than not the keys are found. However, there might come a time when you simply cannot find them. When this happens, you can contact your local Pontiac dealership to request new keys for your 2006 Grand Prix.

Instructions

1

Obtain the vehicle identification number of your Grand Prix from the purchase paperwork, the inside of the drivers door, or the bottom of the left side of the windshield. Write the number down.

2

Call your local Pontiac dealership. Tell the customer service representative youve misplaced the keys to your 2006 Grand Prix and would like to obtain new ones.

3

Visit the dealership. Give the service rep your vehicle identification number. This number provides information specific to your car, such as the cut of the key and whether or not the key needs a computer chip to match your Grand Prixs computer.

4

Pay for your replacement keys. Smart keys and keyless entry fobs are more expensive than traditional car keys.

Ford debuted its Mustang in 1965. Just three years later, it introduced a new engine, the so-called 302, or 5.0 liter V8 engine, a member of Fords Windsor engine family. This performance-oriented engine was available until the end of the 1970s.

History

Ford introduced the 5.0 liter, or 302-cubic-inch, engine in 1968 in anticipation of emissions standards established by the federal government in the 1970s. It remained an available engine in the Mustang until 1973. It was reinstated in 1975 and ended its run in Mustangs in 1979.

Cylinder Head to Engine Block

The bolts joining the cylinder head and the engine block require three distinct applications of torque executed in a helical sequence. The bolts require first 45 foot-pounds of torque, then 55 foot-pounds and finally 70 foot-pounds of torque. You should wait about 15 minutes between each step to allow the bolts to settle and stretch.

Other Specifications

The intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head in three stages: first to 12 foot-pounds, second to 20 foot-pounds, and third to 22 foot-pounds of torque. In 5.0 liter engines manufactured in 1969 and 1970, the rocker arm stud bolts to the cylinder head with 70 foot-pounds of torque. The valve cover bolts to the cylinder head with 4 foot-pounds of torque.

There are a number of different ways to upgrade and modify your vehicles exhaust system. By swapping out your cars muffler with a glass pack muffler, you can affect the noise level and performance abilities of your vehicle. You should consider all the possible side effects of altering your exhaust system before you put a glass pack muffler on your car or truck.

What is a Glass Pack?

Glass pack mufflers are designed to allow air to flow directly through the exhaust pipe and reduce back pressure. The exhaust channel of a glass pack muffler contains a fiberglass barrier, which helps muffle the exhaust noise. Glass pack mufflers do not contain baffles, which slow airflow through the muffler. Glass packs typically do not muffle as much sound as stock vehicle mufflers, so installing a glass pack will probably make your vehicles exhaust system louder.

Availibility and Cost

Glass pack mufflers are widely available from a variety of different manufacturers. In terms of exhaust modifications, glass packs are a relatively inexpensive modification. In most cases, you will be able to purchase the glass pack itself for less than $50.

Pros and Cons of Glass Packs

The main benefit of installing a glass pack is that you may be able to improve exhaust flow and reduce the amount of back pressure in your exhaust. Back pressure is created when the flow of exhaust through a muffler is restricted. Depending on the type of vehicle and engine, reducing back pressure can improve performance by allowing exhaust gases to flow out of the vehicle more quickly.

Legalities of a Glass Pack

The laws governing automobile exhaust modifications will vary, depending on the area in which you live. You should check your state and local laws before swapping out your cars muffler for an aftermarket glass pack muffler. States where emissions testing and inspections are done are the most likely to have laws affecting the modifications that can be done to an exhaust system. Failure to obey exhaust and emissions laws can lead to fines and even the loss of the ability to drive your vehicle on public roadways.

Chrysler uses its Jeep brand for its off-road and sport-utility vehicles. The 1988 Jeep models included the Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer and Wrangler. These vehicles came equipped with fuel injectors, which deliver the correct fuel-air mixture to the engine, at the correct timing. To access the fuel injectors in a 1988 Jeep, you will need to remove additional components. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors is generally the same for all 1988-made Jeeps.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal, using a socket wrench, to prevent the battery from generating sparks. Disconnect the air cleaner and its hose. Remove the upper and lower bonnets from the throttle body.

2

Press the tabs on the electrical wire for the fuel injector and pull the wire up to disconnect it from the fuel injector. Remove the screws from the retainer clip on the fuel injector, using a socket wrench, and detach the retainer clip from the fuel injector.

3

Grab the center collar of the fuel injector between the electrical terminals with a small pair of pliers. Rock the fuel injector gently back and forth while lifting it from the injector bore of the throttle body. Ensure that you do not twist the fuel injector while removing it. Discard all of the O-rings and the centering ring from the fuel injector.

4

Apply a coating of transmission fluid to the new O-rings and install them into the injector bore of the throttle body. Place the new centering ring on top of the upper O-ring. Align the fuel injectors locating ring, with its slot on the injector housing of the throttle body. Place the fuel injector into the injector bore of the throttle body and attach the retaining clip. Fasten the screws for the retainer clip, using a socket wrench.

5

Connect the electrical wiring for the fuel injector. Attach the upper and lower bonnets to the throttle body, using a socket wrench. Install the air cleaner and connect the air cleaner house. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal.

Plasti-Kote is a rust converter solution. Rust is traditionally removed by scraping and priming. However, Plasti-Kote converts the rust into harmless chemicals and creates a protective film on the surface so there is no need for scraping. Rust converters are commonly used on automobile surfaces. You can apply Plasti-Kote rust remover by following a few techniques.

Instructions

1

Remove loose rust from the affected area with a clean, bristled brush. This will prevent any loose rust from getting sealed into the affected areas when applying the rust remover.

2

Clean the rusted area with mild dishwashing soap and water then let dry. Apply a degreaser. This will prevent surface contaminants from interfering with the reaction of the rust converter.

3

Dip the applicator brush into the solution then apply an even coat to the rusted areas. It will take 24 hours for the rust converter to fully dry.

4

Apply a second coat of Plasti-Kote. Wait another 24 hours for the rust converter to completely dry before painting.

Having a car is an essential for most people, and for disabled people it can be a lifeline to independent living. Depending on the nature of their disability, disabled people might not be able to walk or use public transport, but still be able to drive a car. Charities recognize this, and some repair vehicles for the disabled at reduced rates or free.

Free Charity Cars

Free Charity Cars takes donations of unwanted cars, and repairs and services them. The cars are then given to people in need, including those with disabilities. The program runs on an application system. Anyone wanting to receive a free car must create a profile and fill out an application that tells their story. Once a donated car becomes available in a particular area, the charitys staff reviews local applications and decides who should receive the car. The charity also helps people who have a car but need assistance with repairs and maintenance.

Opportunity Cars

Opportunity Cars is a group of programs dedicated to providing free vehicles, loans for vehicles and help with repair costs for those in need. It accepts donated cars and repairs them before giving away the vehicles. The focus is on helping those considered the working poor, which includes many disabled people. Opportunity Cars provides help through charities and nonprofits across the U.S., and also through government agencies. To apply for a car or help with repairs, applicants must contact their local program.

Cars4Christmas

Cars4Christmas is a charity that provides transportation for those in need, including disabled people. The group accepts donated cars, then repairs and services them before giving them to people who need transportation but cant afford to pay for it. The group also provides grants to help with repairs for people who need help paying for them.

Local Charities

Many local groups also repair cars for the disabled, including church groups, community organizations and auto repair shops that donate some of their services to charity. In Pocatello, Idaho, for example, church volunteers who are experienced in car repair provide free labor for those who cant afford to fix their cars. In Arizona, a group of auto repair shops known as the Auto Repair Good Guys Foundation supplies free labor. In Wisconsin, Wheels to Work donates cars and offers free repairs to those in need, using local automotive technology students to supply the labor.

There are a number of different fluids that are used in a General Motors or Chevrolet 6.5-liter diesel engine to keep it running smoothly and operating properly. Without the proper fluids, the trucks engine can be damaged by heat and friction that are generated as the engine runs. It is important to use the proper fluids in your diesel truck and keep the right amount of fluids in the engine at all times.

Oil

Engine oil is required for all gasoline and diesel engines. Oil provides the lubrication necessary to minimize friction between internal components. The 2011 Chevrolet Diesel Truck owners manual insert states that Chevrolet diesel engines need to use engine oil that is designated as API CJ-4 and has a viscosity of SAE 15W-40, unless you are in extremely cold temperatures, where SAE 5W-40 can be used to improve cold starting. Chevrolet states that you should not use 10W-30, 10W-40 or 20W-50 oils in your 6.5 diesel engine. Oil should be changed every 3,000 miles.

Oil Flushes and Additives

Chevrolet states that vehicle owners should not add any kind of additional fluid to the recommended engine oil of their diesel trucks. Chevrolet does not recommend using oil additives or engine oil system flushes. These treatments may void your vehicles warranty and cause damage.

Coolant

The 6.5-liter diesel should operate using a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL coolant and clean, drinking-quality water in the radiator and cooling system. The coolants purpose in the engine is to prevent overheating and extreme engine temperatures.

Other Fluids

Your 6.5-liter diesel engine and its various components rely on a number of different fluids to continue operating properly. These include DEXRON-VI automatic transmission fluid for the transmission and transfer case, GM-brand power steering and diesel exhaust fluid, and DOT-3 hydraulic brake fluid.

The Jimmy is a mid-size sport utility vehicle made by GMC from 1983 to 2005. The models made from 1995 to 2005 belong to the second generation of the GMC Jimmy and are virtually identical to the Chevrolet Blazer. The 1998 GMC Jimmy has a water pump that the engine powers with a belt. It circulates coolant from the radiator to the engine to prevent the engine from overheating. You can access the water pump in the 1998 GMC Jimmy from the engine compartment near the cooling fan.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal with a socket wrench to keep you from starting the engine while you replace the water pump. Place a sealable container under the radiator petcock and open the petcock. Allow the coolant to drain from the radiator into the container.

2

Rotate the belt tensioner pulley with a wrench to relieve the tension on the drive belt and remove the drive belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the upper cover for the cooling fan and remove the pulley for the water pump. Release the clamp for the hose to the water pump and disconnect the hose.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench and detach the water pump from the engine. Record the position of each retaining bolt as they may have different lengths. Discard the gasket for the water pump.

4

Apply a thin layer of 1052080 sealant to the threads of the retaining bolts for the water pump. Place a new gasket onto the new water pump and mount the water pump to the engine. Install the retaining bolts for the water pump and tighten them to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Attach the coolant hose to the water pump and secure it with the retaining clamps. Connect the pulley for the water pump and place the drive belt over the pulley. Allow the tensioner to contact the drive belt and install the upper fan cover with a socket wrench. Connect the negative battery cable and fill the radiator with coolant. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.

You can retrieve and rest the trouble codes for your 2001 Dodge Ram right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The Ram comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer -- OBD II -- that retrieves and stores all trouble codes sent to it from sensors within the vehicle. When these sensors detect a problem, they send a trouble code to the computer, which lights up warning or service lights on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these trouble codes using an OBD II code scanner. You can buy one at many auto-parts retailers.

Instructions

1

Find the diagnostic port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column. It will be the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD II code scanner. Plug the code scanner into this diagnostic port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Dont start the engine. This will power on the code scanner.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command or something similar within the code scanners menu. Wait while the code scanner retrieves the codes from the computer. Write the alphanumeric codes it displays on a piece of paper.

4

Look up the codes in the scanners manual. Unplug the scanner and have the car serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes.

5

Repeat steps 1 and 2. Select "Delete Codes." Wait while the scanner responds to the command. You will know it has finished if you see the message "Command Sent" on the code scanner or if the main menu has reappeared on the code scanner. When the process is complete, unplug the scanner from the port.

6

Start the engine and verify on the instrument panel that all warning and service lights have shut off.

General Motors manufactured its LT1 engine from 1992 to 1997. This eight-cylinder 5.7-liter engine is in a variety of vehicles from General Motors such as the Chevrolet Camaro. The water pump in an LT1 engine cools the cylinder heads first before flowing around the rest of the engine. This allows the engine to run at a higher compression ratio, but also makes a faulty water pump more harmful to the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the cooling fan. Remove the right cooling fan assembly with a socket wrench. Remove the left cooling fan assembly if your vehicle was made from 1996 to 1998.

2

Place a suitable container under the radiator. Remove the drain plug and knock sensor with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Install the knock sensor and drain plug.

3

Remove the air cleaner and air intake duct with a socket wrench. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the heater hose from the water pump and throttle body.

4

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the coolant sensor. Loosen the retainers for the ignition coil bracket, and move the ignition coil out of your way. Remove the air pump bracket and disconnect the air pump, if necessary.

5

Unfasten the water pump mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Detach the water pump and discard its gasket.

6

Mount the new gasket to the new water pump and install the water pump. Torque the water pump mounting bolts to between 30 and 32 foot-pounds. with a torque wrench. Install the air pump if you removed it in Step 4.

7

Fasten the ignition coil bracket with a socket wrench, and attach the electrical wiring for the coolant sensor. Connect the heater hoses to the throttle body and water pump. Attach the radiator hoses to the water pump.

8

Install the air cleaner and air intake duct with a socket wrench. Replace the cooling fans that you removed in Step 1, and connect their electrical wiring. Fill the radiator with coolant.

9

Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.

The timing chain keeps parts within your engine in sync by shutting and opening valves at their correct times. If you experience problems with your timing chain, knowing the right procedure for replacing it is valuable information to have.

Significance

Timing chain problems can lead to other serious engine issues. Pistons can be damaged as a result of a broken timing chain. You are also at risk of bending valves if you prolong your timing chain replacement.

Identification

There are several things that you can look for to identify timing chain problems. Strange engine noises proceeding from the front of the engine is a great indicator. A rattling sound as you increase and lower speeds often suggests that your timing chain is failing.

Procedure

To replace your timing chain, several parts will need to be removed first, such as fan belts and pulleys. Timing covers should also be removed and inspected. When replacing the timing chain, the tensioner and sprockets should be replaced with it as well.

When an automobiles power windows wont go up and down, several things could be the cause. A faulty switch or bad wiring are two examples. The electric window motor should also have a close look taken at it when power window problems begin to surface.

Assessment

An electric window motor can be tested to see if its the reason a vehicles window wont go up and down. A fused jumper wire can function to send power past the switch and right to the window motor. If the motor doesnt respond, it will need to be replaced.

Repair

Using a voltmeter allows you to verify power is traveling from the fuse box to the switch, and from the switch to the window motor. Loose connectors can prevent voltage from reaching the motor and will have to be tightened.

Replacement

Because the interior door panel has to be taken off to reach an electric window motor, replacing them can be considered tricky on some types of vehicles. After removing the door panel, now the rivets holding the window motor in place will have to be taken out using a drill. The replacement motor will have its own rivet set for installation.

An automotive fabricators pipe-bending tools must create accurate bends at precise angles without causing damage to the exhaust pipe. Gentle, accurate tools are particularly important to custom hot rod and motorcycle fabricators; these workers use top-of-line materials and often have to get it right the first time around.

Press Bender

The term press bender generally refers to bench or floor-mounted equipment that create bends by compressing pipe between a movable arm and fixed die. The press benders die is shaped like a wedge and its radius determines the acuity of the pipes bend. Press benders allow the fabricator to adjust the angle of the exhaust pipe bend, usually by means of a dial.

To use a press bender, the exhaust pipe fabricator chooses a die and attaches the die to the benders base plate. The fabricator inserts a pipe into the benders saddle, a pre-formed seat, and secures the material with the benders clamp. The tools bending arm presses against the pipe and the pipe presses against the die, assuming the dies form. A manual hand crank, air compressor or hydraulic pump creates the action of the press benders pressing arm.

Roll Bender

The roll bender transforms straight tubing into long, sweeping arcs or circles, particularly for custom exhaust fabrication. The roll bender is a large, stand-alone piece of equipment and usually looks like a large, rectangular box. The primary components of the roll bender, the rollers, protrude from either the top or side of the box. Rollers look like pulleys; they are round with a tubular channel cut along their circumference. Arranged in a triangular pattern, the bottom rollers are stable and the top roller is mobile.

To use a roll bender, the fabricator places exhaust tube into the bottom rollers channels and activates the motion of the machines top roller. The top roller presses against the pipe, bending it into the space between the rollers. As the pipe bends, the rollers turn and push the pipe. As such, the roll bender doesnt just bend pipe at a single point, like the manual and hydraulic bender, but across its entire length to create large bends.

Rotary Bender

Typically powered by hydraulic pump, the rotary bender bends pipe by pressing and rotating the pipe against a fixed, half-circle die. In addition to the fixed, half-circle die, the rotary bender has mobile, half-cylinder die that serves as a clamp and pressing arm.

To use a rotary bender, the exhaust fabricator mounts a pipe between the fixed die and adjustable die, tightens the adjustable die against the pipe and activates the machine. Once activated, the rotary benders pressing arms force the adjustable die to press against the pipe and rotate around the fixed die. Because of its size and power, the rotary bender is capable of quickly creating accurate bends in thick, large-diameter pipe.

Chrysler Motors manufactured many engines independently and also collaborated with other motor companies to manufacture engines. One of the engines manufactured in collaboration was the 2.0 DOHC engine created during the 1980s. The 1988 Dodge Colt Vista Wagon featured the 2.0 G63B engine.

Camshaft Torque Specifications

The 2.0 DOHCs had two outer cap bolts connecting the camshaft to the cylinder head with 18 foot-pounds of torque and three inner cap bolts with 8.75 foot-pounds of torque. The bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the camshaft had 2.5 foot-pounds of torque, while the bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the cylinder head had 7.08 foot-pounds of torque.

Exhaust and Intake Torque Specifications

The bolts connecting the fuel rail to the intake manifold had 16.25 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the intake manifold to the cylinder head had 212 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the throttle body to the intake manifold had 16.67 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head had 16 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe had 20 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the heat shield to the exhaust manifold had 8.75 foot-pounds of torque.

Engine Specifications

The 2.0 DOHC V4 engine had a peak horsepower of 96 and a peak torque of 113 foot-pounds. The engine had a bore and stroke of 3.35 and 3.46 inches, respectively, and a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1. The engine had a displacement of 122 cubic inches, or 2.0 liters.