If the transmission is not working as it should in your Dodge Intrepid, then you might be very worried. People have the misconception that when you have issues with a transmission it will be very costly to fix. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be performed even by someone with little mechanical ability. Set aside about two hours to troubleshoot your Dodge Intrepid transmission.
Instructions
1
Look at the ground where you regularly park your Dodge. If you have a puddle of red transmission fluid under your Intrepid, then you have a transmission leak. This is most likely the reason why your transmission is acting up.
2
Lift up the hood on your Dodge and pull out the transmission dipstick. The transmission dipstick is located on the drivers side of the engine. You will see that the dipstick is identified with the word "transmission" on the top of it.
3
Start the engine of your Dodge. Pull out the dipstick and wipe if off with the paper towel. Put the dipstick back in and take it right back out. You will see two different level lines on the dipstick. One will read "full hot" and the other "full cold." Make sure that the fluid level is correct for cold since you have not driven or warmed up the transmission yet. If you have low fluid, then this is the reason for your transmission malfunction.
4
Follow the dipstick tube down to the transmission. Locate any wires connected to the transmission. If you have any broken or disconnected connections, this could be why your Dodge Intrepid transmission is failing.
Your 2000 Dodge Intrepid fuel pump is the component that pressurizes the gasoline in the car, which allows the fuel injectors to supply the engine with fuel. Replacing the fuel pump is a relatively simple procedure that can be done at home. However, in order to access the fuel pump, you must remove the fuel tank, which is a separate procedure you should know how to perform.
Instructions
Relieving the Fuel System Pressure
1
Take out the fuel filler cap.
2
Disconnect the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center, located in the engine compartment. The relays should be identified under the cover of the power distribution center.
3
Start your Intrepid engine, and leave it running, until it dies. Crank the engine several times. Remove the key from the ignition.
4
Attach the fuel pump relay back into the power distribution center.
5
Remove the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal, located on the right fender in the engine compartment, using a wrench to remove the retaining bolt. Pull out the cable.
Removing the Fuel Pump
6
Detach the fuel tank from your Intrepid. This is a separate procedure. The fuel pump module is found on the fuel tank.
7
Remove the fuel lines and electrical connectors from the fuel pump module. This can be done, depending on what fitting was installed in the fuel pump, which includes a singe-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic ring type. Tabbed fittings need to be squeezed, so they loosen enough to allow for the lines to pull apart. The tab on a single-tab fitting needs to be discarded and replaced. Loosen a plastic ring type fitting, by pushing in the locking ring.
8
Loosen the module locknut, by turning it, counterclockwise, using large channel locks pliers.
9
Lift out the fuel pump module from the tank at an angle. Do not to break off the fuel-level sending float unit when removing the module. Clean any spilled fuel with rags.
10
Place the fuel pump module in a container or drain pan.
11
Replace the seal to where the fuel pump module is placed on the fuel tank. Wipe down the tank-sealing surface with rags.
12
Insert the new fuel pump module. Line up the tabs, under the module, with the notches on the fuel tank.
13
Screw the fuel pump module locknut tight, to about 40 ft-lbs., either by hand or with your channel locks pliers.
14
Attach the electrical connections and the fuel lines to the new fuel pump module.
15
Install the fuel tank back onto your Intrepid.
16
Attach the negative battery cable to the stud, and tighten the bolt with your wrench. Install the fuel filler cap.
You can reset the airbag or SRS (Supplemental Restraint System) computer on your 1996 Dodge Caravan right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The On-Board Diagnostics computer stores trouble codes from sensors positioned throughout the vehicle. The Caravan alerts you to an airbag malfunction by illuminating the SRS light on the instrument panel. If you see this light, stop the vehicle and have it towed to your mechanic.
Once the airbag has been examined and replaced, you can reset the computer using a diagnostic reset tool. This is a small hand-held device sold at all auto parts retailers.
Instructions
1
Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open the cover by turning the knob and pulling down.
2
Find the open port in the fuse panel that is the same size and shape as the diagnostic reset tool connector end. Plug this tool into the port.
3
Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position but dont start the engine. Wait for the light to stop blinking on the reset tool. Once it has stopped flashing, the airbag computer will be reset.
You can retrieve and rest the trouble codes for your 2001 Dodge Ram right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The Ram comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer -- OBD II -- that retrieves and stores all trouble codes sent to it from sensors within the vehicle. When these sensors detect a problem, they send a trouble code to the computer, which lights up warning or service lights on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these trouble codes using an OBD II code scanner. You can buy one at many auto-parts retailers.
Instructions
1
Find the diagnostic port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column. It will be the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD II code scanner. Plug the code scanner into this diagnostic port.
2
Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Dont start the engine. This will power on the code scanner.
3
Select the "Read Codes" command or something similar within the code scanners menu. Wait while the code scanner retrieves the codes from the computer. Write the alphanumeric codes it displays on a piece of paper.
4
Look up the codes in the scanners manual. Unplug the scanner and have the car serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes.
5
Repeat steps 1 and 2. Select "Delete Codes." Wait while the scanner responds to the command. You will know it has finished if you see the message "Command Sent" on the code scanner or if the main menu has reappeared on the code scanner. When the process is complete, unplug the scanner from the port.
6
Start the engine and verify on the instrument panel that all warning and service lights have shut off.
A growling or humming noise when driving down the road is a sign of potential trouble. If you swerve the steering wheel and the noise changes, the culprit is probably a wheel bearing. Usually, this only occurs on one side. Determine which side has failed by lifting the front of the vehicle and spinning the wheels by hand. Often, you can hear the noise in the side that has failed. The failed hub and bearing may also feel loose when you grab the tire by the top and bottom, and pull in and out.
Dodge Caravans use a sealed hub and bearing. This means that the only replaceable parts are the wheel studs. The bearing cannot be lubricated, and in case of failure, the complete hub and bearing must be replaced.
Instructions
Removal/Disassembly
1
Raise the vehicle using a suitable floor jack. The correct lift points for the Dodge Caravan are located under the floor pan and body. They are marked by small downward pointing triangles. Place the jack under this point, and lift. When finished lifting, place a safety stand in a position where it will support the vehicle if the jack fails.
2
Use a wheel nut wrench to remove the five wheel nuts. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. You may want to enlist a helper to hold the brake pedal to make the removal process easier.
3
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft. A cotter pin is a thin piece of metal that looks like a sewing pin, with a rounded piece at the top. The bottom part is split and bent both ways to prevent it from coming out. Remove the nut lock and spring washer as well. While a helper holds the brake pedal, remove the axle shaft nut on the end of the axle shaft.
4
Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. Gently remove the brake caliper from the rotor, and support its weight with a coat hanger or bungee cord. If the brake rotor has never been off the vehicle, look for a small clip on one of the wheel studs. Remove this clip with pliers, and discard it. You will not need to re-use this--it is for assembly-line purposes.
5 Removing a brake rotor on a similar vehicle.
Slide the brake rotor off the hub and bearing. If the rotor is stuck, apply penetrating lubricant to the area where the brake rotor meets the hub and bearing. Let it soak for 30 minutes, and try again. If it is still stuck, tap it gently with a hammer around the area where you sprayed penetrating lubricant. If the rotor still will not come off, you may tap the back of the rotor gently with a hammer to remove it.
6
Push in on the axle shaft end, to disengage it from the splines that are part of the hub and bearing assembly. On the back of the steering knuckle, there are four hub and bearing mounting bolts. Using a socket wrench, remove these four bolts. Be careful not to come in contact with the tone wheel on the axle. The tone wheel is a round piece on the axle shaft with teeth cast in it. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
Installation
7
Clean the mounting surface on the steering knuckle carefully. Install the hub and bearing onto the splines of the axle shaft. Move the hub and bearing into the steering knuckle, until it is squarely seated on the knuckle.
8 Dont guess when tightening. Use a torque wrench for accuracy.
Install the four hub and bearing mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle. Tighten these bolts in a criss-cross pattern, to 45 foot-lbs. of torque.
9
Place the brake rotor on the wheel studs, pushing it back completely onto the hub and bearing assembly. Install the brake caliper and adapter assembly onto the brake rotor, pushing it down until the two bolt holes in the caliper align with the holes in the steering knuckle. Install the two bolts from the inside of the steering knuckle. Tighten these two bolts to 125 foot-lbs. of torque.
10
Install the hub nut on the end of the axle shaft. Use a helper to hold the brake pedal. Tighten the axle nut to 180 foot-lbs. of torque. Install the spring washer and nut lock onto the axle nut. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the end of the axle shaft, and split the cotter pin at the end, bending the ends apart, to secure the axle nut.
11
Install tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 100 foot-lbs. of torque, using the helper to hold the brakes as necessary. Remove the safety stand, and lower the vehicle.
On October 12, 2006, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and DaimlerChrysler announced a fuel pump recall for 39,243 vehicles, including Dodge Cirrus and Stratus models manufactured between 1995-2000. Per the NHTSA, registered vehicle owners should have been notified by mail on or around Oct. 6, 2006.
Fuel Pump Defect
According to the NHTSA, the flapper valves in some of the Tigas fuel pump modules made between June 1 and Sept. 24, 2006, contained out-of-specification silicone material. The affected valves were sold under various brand names as "aftermarket for use in certain DaimlerChrysler vehicles."
Potential Danger
The use of out-of-specification silicone material caused excess swelling of the flapper valve restricting the flow of fuel to the fuel pump module. The restriction of fuel can potentially cause the engine to stall or lose power, which could result in an accident.
Remedy
Per the NHTSA, TI Automotive in October 2006 notified vehicle owners with Tigas models TU111, TU117, TU144 and TU174 where to bring their vehicles for a free replacement of the defective fuel pump modules. Concerned drivers may contact the NHTSA (888-327-4236) or TI Automotive (877-461-1834) to determine whether their vehicles could have been affected.
Diesel engines are more commonly found on larger trucks. The standard engine in a 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 is a six-cylinder, 5.9-liter, turbocharged diesel engine. This engine uses a high-pressure fuel injected system to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel injectors on the 2004 Dodge diesel engine are located on top of the engine. Removal requires a special tool. You will also need to remove the fuel in the fuel lines before replacing the injectors.
Instructions
1
Loosen the bleed bolt on the fuel rail with a socket wrench. Push the fuel primer on the fuel transfer pump until the fuel coming from the bleed valve no longer has air bubbles. Tighten the bleed bolt to 72 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.
2
Disconnect the negative battery cable by loosening the terminal nut with a socket wrench. This will prevent the accidental discharge of fuel as you remove the fuel injectors. Disconnect the valve cover with a socket wrench and detach the fuel lines from the fuel injectors.
3
Remove the retaining nut for the high-pressure fuel connector on each fuel injector. Disconnect the high-pressure connectors from the fuel injectors with tool 9015.
4
Disconnect the exhaust rocker arms with a socket wrench. Remove the retaining nuts from the solenoid wire, located on top of the fuel injectors. Disconnect the hold-down clamp bolts on the fuel injector. Remove the rocker-housing bolt with a socket wrench.
5
Connect the lower half of the mounting stud on tool 9010-2004 to the center of the bridge for the rocker housing. Connect the upper half of the mounting stud on tool 9010-2004 to the lower half of the mounting stud.
6
Connect the handle of tool 9010-2004 to the mounting stud on the tool. Tighten the nut on the tool to loosely connect the handle to the mounting stud. Connect the lower half of the clam shells on the special tool to the sides of the fuel injector. Connect the upper half of the clam shells to the head of the tool handle.
7
Slide the retaining sleeve over the pivoting handle of tool 9010-2004. Push the handle of the tool down to force the fuel injectors out of the cylinder heads. Remove the fuel injectors from the cylinder heads.
The Dodge Ram is a series of full-size pickup trucks manufactured by the Dodge division of the Chrysler Group since 1981. The 1995 model belongs to the second generation of Dodge Rams, which includes the 1994 through 2001 models. The most common engine in the 1995 Dodge Ram is an eight-cylinder 5.2-liter. The oil pump for this vehicle attaches to the rear main bearing cap and is accessible from underneath the vehicle.
Instructions
1
Allow the vehicle to sit overnight to ensure that the oil is cold. Place a drain pan under the oil drain and remove the drain plug with a socket wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan then replace the drain plug.
2
Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan with a socket wrench and remove the oil pan. Loosen the bolts for the oil pump cover and disconnect the oil pump cover. Remove the mounting bolts for the oil pump and detach the oil pump from the rear bearing cap.
3
Fill the rotor cavity of the new oil pump with engine oil to prime the pump. Hold the new oil pump in position on the rear bearing cap. Tighten the mounting bolts to 95 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.
4
Replace the oil pump cover and tighten the cover bolts to 30 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Reinstall the oil pan with the socket wrench.
5
Fill the engine with oil and start the vehicle. Check for any oil leaks.
The engine accessories on the 1997 Dodge Dakota V6 engine are driven by a single drive belt. The belt is routed around all of the engine accessories in such a way that it operates each accessory. As the belt is being driven around the alternator, the air conditioner pump, the power steering pump and the water pump, it enables the accessories to function. Excessive exposure to the heat of the engine can cause the belt to fray. If you notice fraying or excessive cracking on the belt, change it as soon as possible before it breaks.
Instructions
1
Open the hood and lock it in place.
2
Locate the big crankshaft pulley on the bottom center of the engine. Wrap the belt around the bottom of the crankshaft pulley so that the ribs on the inside of the belt are seated inside the grooves of the crankshaft pulley.
3
Wrap the belt around the right side of the crankshaft pulley and over the top of the crankshaft pulley. Wrap the belt around the top of the water pump pulley with the flat surface of the belt inside the water pump pulley.
4
Pull the belt over to the power steering pump pulley. Route the belt completely around the power steering pump pulley, with the inside ribs of the belt seated inside the grooves of the power steering pump pulley.
5
Pull the belt over the top of the air conditioner pulley, with the ribs of the belt seated inside the pulley.
6
Pull the belt under the idler pulley, with the flat surface of the belt against the surface of the pulley.
7
Pull the belt up and around the alternator pulley, with the ribs of the belt seated inside the alternator pulley grooves.
8
Move back down to the crankshaft and pull the left side of the belt up and around the air pump pulley. The only pulley left is the belt tensioner pulley.
9
Locate the bolt head in the middle of the belt tensioner pulley. Position a breaker bar and a metric socket on the bolt head. Turn the breaker bar counterclockwise to move the tensioner out of the way of the belt. Slide the flat surface of the belt under the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar. Remove the breaker bar from the tensioner and the engine compartment.
10
Crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds to completely seat the belt inside each pulley.
Acting as both a dehumidifier and cooling system, air conditioners in Dodge vehicles are a standard feature in many of the brands cars and trucks. The cool, dehumidified air travels into the passenger compartment through vents in the dash. The air conditioning system is comprised of four major parts, including the compressor, condenser, expansion valve and evaporator.
Compressor
Considered the major component of the air conditioning unit, the compressor acts as a means of compressing the refrigerant present in the air conditioning unit into a heated gas. The compressor is equally responsible for the circulation and movement of the refrigerant through the air conditioning unit. Due to its role in compressing the refrigerant, the compressor produces excessive heat. Lubricants present in the unit allow the compressor to function properly. A secondary part of the compressor is the compressor clutch, which is located at the front of the compressor itself. The compressor clutch is constructed of a clutch hub, pulley and field coil. The clutch hub is attached to the primary shaft of the compressor. When the field coil becomes galvanized it leads to the production of a magnetic field that acts to bring the hub in the direction of the pulley, which reacts by pulling the hub toward the pulley and engaging the clutch. The energizing of the clutch begins the pumping of the compressor.
Condenser
The condenser, the second major component of the air conditioning unit, acts as a means of cooling the hot gas from the compressor and converting it into a cooler liquid form. Found by the radiator, the condenser is where the liquid passes into slits between the coils that line the component. An electric fan located within the unit assists in propelling the cooled liquid through the slits.
Expansion Valve
After the cooled liquid is processed in the condenser it moves into the expansion valve. The expansion valve acts as a means of lowering the pressure of the liquid gas before it moves into the evaporator.
Evaporator
The final step in the air conditioning unit in a Dodge vehicle is the evaporator. The evaporator further cools the gas. This cooling occurs when a fan attached to the front portion of the air conditioning unit blows over the evaporator. The action of the fan and evaporator combined provide additional cooling before the air is propelled through the vents of the vehicle and into the interior.
Removing the visor support clip in your Dodge Ram may be necessary if the clip is cracked or broken and is not longer supporting the sun visor as intended. The visor clips into the hook on the clamp, holding the inboard end of the visor up against the headliner while still allowing it to pivot up and down to block the sun while driving. If you need a new clip, you can contact any Dodge dealer parts department to order the correct part in a color that matches your interior.
Instructions
1
Fold the sun visor down and pull it back, removing it from the support clip. You can find the visor above the windshield inside the passengers compartment of your Dodge.
2
Rotate the sun visor out of the way, moving it to the left or right of the truck. Locate the seam at the top edge of the support clip and insert a trim stick between the clip and the headliner.
3
Pry the clip away from the headliner. Remove the hook from the truck.
Dodge Ram trucks include the 1500, 2500 and 3500 series. These trucks have a variety of engine sizes, and are available with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. Dodge Ram trucks use sequential fuel injection, which requires an electric fuel pump that produces very high pressure. The procedure for replacing the fuel pump in a Dodge Ram truck is similar for all models and trim levels from 2001 to 2005.
Instructions
1
Disconnect the fuel vent hose from the fuel vent fitting located on the outer portion of the left frame rail. Attach one end of hose no. 6541, 6539, 6631 or 6923 to this fuel vent fitting. The correct hose depends on the specific model and engine of your vehicle. Siphon the fuel from the fuel system into a gasoline container. Connect the fuel vent hose to the fuel vent fitting.
2
Remove the filler tube cap for the fuel tank. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.
3
Disconnect the electrical wiring harness and fuel lines from the fuel pump module. Remove the fuel tank. Turn the locknut on the fuel pump module counter-clockwise with special tool 6856, and remove the locknut. Remove the fuel pump module from the fuel tank.
4
Install the new fuel pump module onto the fuel tank. Place the locknut into position and turn it clockwise with special tool 6856 until it locks into place. Install the fuel tank, and connect the wiring harness and fuel lines to the fuel pump module.
5
Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Lower the vehicle and replace the filler tube cap for the fuel tank. Start the engine and inspect the fuel system for leaks.
If you lost the key for your 1987 Dodge van, you might think about replacing the lock cylinder and use a new key. This is an option for replacement, but the cost of having a cylinder lock changed in your ignition and on your doors could become expensive. There is an easier way to replace a lost key, because Dodge keeps records of the keys used on each vehicle and keeps a master key.
Instructions
1
Write down the vehicle identification number (VIN) for your Dodge van. The number is in the drivers side dash where the dash meets the windshield.
2
Contact your local Dodge dealership, and confirm they offer key replacement services. Some dealerships do not have the equipment to cut a new key.
3
Take your VIN number and your vehicle registration to the dealership. This helps the dealership confirm you are the owner of the vehicle. They can look up the VIN number, get the key code and cut you a new key based on the master key.
