Repair 7

On July 19, 2001 the Ford Motor Company issued a fuel system gasoline recall regarding a damaged check valve in the fuel pump sender assembly of F-Series pickup trucks. The potential number of vehicles affected is 1,556,221, according to the recall notice.

Affected Vehicles

The vehicles affected by this recall are 1990-1993 Ford F-Series pickup trucks equipped with dual fuel tanks. The recalled vehicles will have a 4.9, 5.0, 5.8 or 7.5-liter gasoline engine.

Problem

Vehicles affected can experience the transfer of fuel from one tank to the other due to a malfunction of the check valve in the fuel system. When fuel returns to the tank not being used, which is called cross flow, the non-operating tank capacity can be exceeded, which can cause fuel to run out past the filler cap and possibly create a fire hazard.

Solution

Ford has extended the warranty for possible fuel cross flow to 12 years or 150,000 miles from the start date of the warranty, whichever comes first. Dealers will repair the fuel cross flow condition at no charge.

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

2

Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

3

Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

4

Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

5

Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

In 1975, Ford added the F-150 to its F Series, which had been around since 1948. Ford intended for the F-150 to fill the gap between the F-100 and the F-250, providing more power than the former but not quite as much as the latter. While new trim packages have been introduced, the basic design of the F-150 has remained the same since 1997. The camber angles on the 2002 Ford F-150 differed depending on the trim package.

General Camber Information for the 2002 Ford F-150

The camber angle, along with the caster angle and toe, is one of the three primary specs to take into consideration when aligning the wheels of a vehicle. The camber of a wheel is the angle at which it leans when viewed from the front of the vehicle. A wheel that leans in toward the center of a vehicle, or toward its engine, is said to have a negative camber. A wheel that leans out away from the center of a vehicle, or away from its engine, is said to have a positive camber.

The 2002 Ford F-150 was available in 40 different two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive trims. All two-wheel drive trims except for the Lightning had the same specs for the camber angle on the front end. All four-wheel drive trims shared the same specs for the camber angle on the front end. The camber is not adjustable on the rear end of the 2002 Ford F-150 because it came with a fixed rear axle. If the rear end is out of alignment, it is probably due to a bent or otherwise damaged axle or frame. Keep in mind that It is always best to review an owners manual or talk to a mechanic before making any significant repairs to a vehicle.

4-by-2 Lightning

The camber angle on the front end of the 2002 Ford F-150 Lightning can range from minus 0.5 degrees to plus 0.7 degrees.

All Other 4-by-2 Trims

The camber angle on all other trims of the 2002 4-by-2 Ford F-150 can range from minus 0.3 degrees to plus 0.7 degrees.

All Four-Wheel Drive Trims

The camber angle on the front end of all 2002 four-wheel drive Ford F-150s can range from minus 0.1 degrees to plus 0.7 degrees.

Ford equipped the 1991 F-150 trucks with a hydraulic clutch actuation system on the 4.9-, 5.0- or 5.8-liter, naturally aspirated gasoline engines. The hydraulic clutch generates pressure at the master cylinder when the driver presses on the clutch pedal. A nylon hydraulic clutch line carries pressurized fluid to the slave cylinder on the transmission. The line is subject to damage from road debris and proximity to hot engine parts. Replace damaged hydraulic lines to prevent fluid loss and restore clutch function.

Instructions

1

Park the F-150 on level ground and set the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Jack up the front of the truck and support it on jack stands.

2

Locate the hydraulic slave cylinder coupling port on the driver side of the transmission near the bell housing. Place a catch pan under the coupling port. Push the white plastic collar on the fitting toward the transmission, using special tool T88T-70522-A to disengage the quick-connect fitting and then pull the hydraulic line from the transmission.

3

Remove the hydraulic line retaining clip from the bottom of the passenger compartment near the quick-connect fitting. Observe the hydraulic line routing from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

4

Locate the clutch master cylinder on the engine firewall next to the brake booster. Remove the 3/32-inch roll pin from the master cylinder near the hydraulic line connector, using a punch. Support the master cylinder while pushing the roll-pin out to prevent stressing and breaking the master cylinder body. Pull the hydraulic line from the master cylinder. Pull the old hydraulic line rubber seal out of the master cylinder using a dental pick. Discard the old roll pin and rubber seal.

5

Install the new rubber seal on the new hydraulic line master cylinder fitting. Route the line down to the transmission. Insert the fitting and rubber seal into the master cylinder. Install the new 3/32-inch roll pin in the master cylinder.

6

Push the quick-connect fitting into the slave cylinder coupling until the coupling snaps in place. Wipe spilled brake fluid from the transmission case with a clean rag. Install the hydraulic line retaining clip.

7

Wipe the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap with a clean rag to remove dirt or other contaminates. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm from the reservoir. Install a short length of clear, nylon hose to the bleeder valve on the transmission near the slave cylinder coupling. Lead the loose end of the hose into the catch pan. Open the bleeder valve, using a wrench. Have a helper monitor the fluid level in the reservoir and add DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid as necessary to prevent the reservoir from running dry. Observe the fluid stream in the hose and tighten the bleeder valve, using a wrench, once the fluid stream is free of air bubbles.

8

Fill the reservoir up to the Full mark and install the reservoir diaphragm. Push the clutch pedal to the floor. Hold it for a few seconds then completely release the pedal as rapidly as possible. Repeat this action 10 times. Remove the diaphragm and top off the fluid in the reservoir. Repeat this step five times.

9

Install the reservoir diaphragm and cap. Have your helper apply moderate pressure to the clutch pedal and loosen the bleeder valve slightly to release any residual air. Tighten the bleeder valve and remove the clear vinyl hose. Wipe up spilled brake fluid with a rag.

10

Raise the front of the F-150, using the jack. Remove the jack stands, and then lower the truck to the ground.

11

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Add fluid as necessary to bring the fluid level up to the Full mark. Install the diaphragm and cap.

12

Test the clutch for proper operation in a safe area. Inspect the hydraulic line fittings for leaks. Ensure that the clutch is operating properly before using the vehicle in traffic or other public areas.