Repair 7

The Chevrolet Silverado is a full-size pickup truck that has been in production since 1998. It is available with several types of V-6 and V-8 engines, which have a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket varies slightly, depending on which cylinder head you must remove. These procedures are generally the same for the 4.3-liter, 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines in the 2000 Chevrolet pickup.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable using the socket wrench. Detach the bleed pipe for the coolant from the right cylinder head. Disconnect the intake manifold and remove the push rods from the engine. Remove the exhaust manifolds from the engine.

2

Remove the mounting bolts that attach the alternator bracket to the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolt for the alternator bracket that is behind the power steering pump, and push the bracket aside with the alternator still attached.

3

Disconnect the bolt that attaches the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the oil level tube from the right cylinder head, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder head.

4

Remove the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench, and discard the 11-mm mounting bolts. Lift the cylinder head from the engine and discard the cylinder head gasket.

5

Clean the bolt holes on the engine block with GM spray cleaner, part number 12346139, and blow the holes clear with compressed air. Remove the thread-locking material from the 8-mm mounting bolts with the GM driver tool, part number J 42385-107. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the locating pins on the engine block, then install the cylinder head over the locating pins.

6

Fasten new 11-mm mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Apply a 0.2-inch bead of GM thread lock compound, part number 12345382, to the threads of the 8-mm bolts, and fasten them by hand.

7

Tighten the 11-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench on the first pass. Tighten the 11-mm bolts an additional 90 degrees on the second pass, then tighten them another 70 degrees on the third pass. Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 22 foot-pounds, beginning with the center bolt. Work your way outward on the 8-mm bolts, alternating from side to side.

8

Connect the oil level tube to the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Mount the bracket for the alternator and tighten its bolts to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, including the mounting bolt below the power steering pump. Connect the exhaust manifolds to the engine, and install the push rods. Attach the bleed pipe for the coolant to the right cylinder head, and connect the negative battery cable.

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

2

Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

3

Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

4

Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

5

Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

The fourth generation of the 1500 series pickup truck appeared in 1988 and was manufactured until 2000 by Chevrolet. There were a total of eight different versions and cab variations of the 1500. They were powered by reliable V8 engines that required periodic service if parts like the intake manifold gasket would fail.

Instructions

Removal Procedure

1

Mark the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor for proper reassembly. Remove the distributor. Unplug the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Remove the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve and the coolant bypass hose.

2

Pull out the fuel supply and return lines from the rear part of the intake manifold. Unplug the wiring harness and brackets. Remove the throttle cable and bracket. Remove the cruise control cable.

3

Take out the transmission oil level indicator tube. Remove the EGR inlet tube, clamp and bolt. Remove the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Unscrew the air conditioning compressor. Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bracket and slide forward, but do not remove it. Lay the A/C compressor out of the way. Do not kink the air conditioning lines.

4

Remove the power brake vacuum tube and the rocker arm cover. Remove the generator rear bracket bolt. Take out the intake manifold. Remove the old pieces of gasket from the gasket surfaces. Clean the excessive carbon buildup from inside the exhaust passages and the scale and deposits from the coolant passages. Inspect the manifold for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.

Installation Procedure

5

Position the new gaskets to the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and "This Side Up" facing up. Install the lower intake manifold on the engine. Apply sealer to the lower intake manifold bolts. Put in the lower intake manifold bolts back in place. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the first step apply 27 inch pounds of torque. In the second apply 106 inch pound of torque and in the last step tighten the bolts applying 11 foot pounds of torque.

6

Plug in the wiring harness connectors and brackets. Connect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. Install the heater hose at the lower intake manifold. Connect the coolant bypass hose.

7

Install the EGR valve and the valve rocker arm cover. Connect the fuel supply and return lines at the rear of the intake manifold. Plug in the wiring harness and brackets. Install the cruise control cable (if equipped).

8

Install the throttle cable and bracket. Put back the transmission oil level indicator tube. Install the EGR inlet tube, clamp, and bolt. Connect the PCV valve and vacuum hoses. Install the power brake vacuum tube. Install the generator and the bracket bolt (if needed). Install the air conditioning compressor and bracket. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. Connect the distributor. Note the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor made at disassembly.

Car engines rely on proper mixtures of air and fuel to perform at peak levels. One component of the engine, the intake manifold, helps with this mixing process, but can have problems with leakage from the intake manifold gasket.

Function

An intake manifold gasket seals the two pieces of the intake manifold assembly together to keep the air and fuel mixture from leaking out. The intake manifold itself distributes this mixture to the engines cylinders for combustion.

Considerations

Intake manifold gasket problems arise as the engine ages. Current day stock gaskets are made from nylon-filled plastic carriers, which can warp from the constant change of air pressure and heat within the intake manifolds body over the course of a vehicles lifespan. If a gasket is failing, there may be visible leakage and an obvious decrease in engine performance.

Prevention and Solution

Many aftermarket intake manifold gaskets are manufactured with aluminized steel carrier bodies to shore up the integrity of the gasket. Keep in mind that the torquing of the manifold assembly around the gasket should be monitored to make sure that the gasket is tightened securely, but is not pinched.

The cylinder head gasket on the Plymouth Voyager seals the gap between the cylinder head and the engine block. It prevents the oil from mixing with the engine coolant, and helps to form proper seal for efficient combustion. The head gasket fails when it is overheated or worn. To replace the head gasket you need to remove the cylinder head first.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve covers and the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the battery ground cable and relocate the spark plug wires. Unplug the vacuum connections. Remove rocker cover screws and remove the cover.

2

Remove camshaft sprockets. Check auto lash adjuster function. Check auto adjusters for free play by inserting a small wire through the air bleed hole in the rocker arm and very lightly push the auto adjuster ball check down. While lightly holding the check ball down move the rocker arm up and down to check for free play. If there is no play replace the adjuster.

3

Remove the distributor extension and camshaft bearings. When removing camshaft bearing caps do not unscrew the bolts from the bearing caps. Remove the rocker arms, rocker shafts and bearing cap as an assembly.

4

Inspect the camshafts along with camshaft bearing journals for damage and binding. If journals are binding, also check the cylinder head for damage. Also check cylinder head oil holes for clogging.

5

Remove the intake and the exhaust manifolds. Unscrew the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head. Examine the cylinder head. Before cleaning, check for leaks, damage and cracks. Check the cylinder head for flatness. Cylinder head must be flat within or less than .002 inches. Remove the old cylinder head gasket.

6

Position the new cylinder head gasket on the block, over locating dowels. Install the cylinder head on the dowels. Fit the 10 mm Allen Hex head bolts with washers. Tighten the cylinder head bolts. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, tighten gradually, working in two or three steps and finally tighten to specified torque of 80 foot pounds.

7

Install the camshafts. Lubricate camshaft journals and cams with engine oil and install camshaft on cylinder head. Reassemble the rocker arms. Align the camshaft bearing caps with arrows depending on the cylinder bank. Install the rocker shafts into bearing cap. Note that the machined portion of the rocker shaft should be facing down.

8

Insert attaching bolts to retain assembly. Install the rocker arm shaft assembly. Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant at bearing cap ends. Install the rocker arm shaft assembly making sure that the arrow mark on the bearing cap and the arrow mark on the cylinder head are in the same direction. Tighten bearing cap to 85 inch pounds and then with additional 180 inch pounds. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds. Install distributor drive adaptor assembly. Install the valve covers the air cleaner assembly. Connect the ground battery cable and the spark plug wires.

"A blown head gasket." Those words, and the accompanying repair parts and labor cost, are ice to the warm heart of any 2005 Civic owner. That pesky head gasket is so close to the heart of the engine. Repairing any head gasket is no small task, but it can be accomplished. This repair requires removing the cylinder head, a complicated and technical procedure--hence the high repair cost at the shop. If you are willing to replace your own head gasket, you can save substantial money by eliminating labor costs.

Instructions

Removing the Cylinder Head

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the radiator drain plug and drain the antifreeze. Drain the engine oil.

2

Disconnect any sensors immediately present around the valve cover. Label each disconnected wire, as well as the point you disconnected it from, so they will be easy to reconnect later. Remove the spark plug wires.

3

Remove the entire plastic air intake and filter assembly. Remove any coolant hoses near the cylinder head. Disconnect the EGR supply tube from the exhaust manifold and at the EGR valve. Gently remove any other sensors connected to the intake manifold.

4

Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head and from where it joins the exhaust head tube. After all sensors and vacuum tubes are disconnected from the intake manifold, unbolt and remove the intake manifold as well.

5

Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.

6

Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to a head bolt sequence diagram, and loosen the head bolts in reverse sequence. After loosening, fully remove the head bolts.

7

Remove the cylinder head. You may have to pry the cylinder head loose. This is best accomplished by driving a flat screwdriver or other wedge between the cylinder head and the engine block.

Installing the New Head Gasket

8

Scrape any remaining portions of the old head gasket from the engine block and cylinder head. Use a flat razor. Do not gouge the metal. Spray off the block and head with parts cleaner (brake parts cleaner works well for this). If any debris falls into the cylinders, clean it out with a shop cloth or paper towel.

9

Position the new head gasket on the engine block. It will only fit one way. Make sure it is clean and correctly fits all oil and coolant passages. Even the most reputable parts store may make a mistake and sell the wrong part from time to time, and this is one job you definitely dont want to do twice.

10

Check the cylinder head caully for cracks. A blown head gasket can cause overheating and head cracking or warping. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head to check for warping. The bottom of the cylinder head should fall in a perfect plane. See the Warnings section below.

11

Place the cylinder head back over the new head gasket. Be very gentle--tearing the new head gasket will cause it to fail (and this is one job you dont want to do again).

12

Coat the new cylinder head bolts with oil, and finger-tighten all 10 of them.

13

Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the correct torque in a multi-step process. Locate the correct torque figures for your engine. Most 2005 Civics came with D17 series engines. The engine type number is stamped on the upper portion of the engine block. Cross-erence the engine type number of your vehicle with a torque figure erence to ensure you are using the correct torque figure. If there is more than one torque figure available, tighten all the bolts to the first figure first, then all to the second figure, and so on until you reach the highest torque figure. The head bolts MUST be tightened in the correct sequence to ensure proper sealing of the head gasket and to prevent cylinder head warping.

Reassembly

14

Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft pulley are aligned to top dead center (TDC). Reinstall the timing belt.

15

Reverse the tear down instructions above to reassemble the upper portion of the engine.

16

Fill the radiator. Change the oil filter and fill the engine oil to the correct level.

17

Start the car and allow it to run for several minutes. After a few minutes, check the radiator fluid level--it may drop as fluid fills all the coolant passages in the engine block.

A donut gasket is often used to seal a vehicles front exhaust pipe and manifold connection. However, there can be donut gaskets used in other locations downstream in the exhaust system of certain vehicles. The shape of the gasket resembles a donut and it seals the exhaust pipe that has a ball flared end.

Instructions

1

Lift the vehicle all the way up on the car lift.

2

Put on the safety glasses and collect all the tools you need and place them in a handy location near you under the vehicle.

3

Determine if the front exhaust pipe is a Y-pipe. This would mean that it attaches to the engine at dual manifold locations on both the left and right side, then downstreams into a single chamber pipe. If this is the case, you will need to remove both front flange-to-manifold connections. If it is only a single-chambered pipe, you will only need to remove the single flange-to-manifold connection.

4

Set up the ratchet, extension and appropriate sized socket for the nuts on the manifold studs and make sure the ratchet is set in the reverse position.

5

Light the torch, choose one manifold stud nut to heat and heat it to a cherry red color. Quickly shut off the torch and apply the ratchet, extension, and socket to the nut and back it off the stud. If you feel any resistance, relight the torch and re-heat the nut some more so you do not break the stud.

6

Remove all the nuts from the manifold studs using this procedure. Take your time and be careful not to break any studs.

7

Put on the safety gloves and back the front pipe away from the manifold. Use the pry bar for leverage to help. In order to achieve this, you may have to remove some of the hangers downstream on the exhaust system to allow some movement and flexibility.

8

Allow the pipe and manifold to cool down some. Remove the old gasket and insert the new one.

9

Rethread or chase the manifold studs (once youve allowed them to cool) to clean the threads on them before replacing new nuts onto the studs.

10

Replace the nuts and tighten with the ratchet, extension, and socket.

A leak in your cars head gasket signals a serious mechanical issue that needs immediate repair. The head gasket provides the mating material between the engine case halves that when open expose the engines piston chambers. This area is under high pressure when the engine runs, providing the combustion needed to move the car. A leak in the head gasket allows this pressure to leak, creating engine-performance problems that worsen. Several products exist to repair the issue, but the first repair involves opening the engine case and resealing it properly again.

Non-Invasive Products

Block seal head-gasket repair chemicals are introduced through the coolant system. These chemicals circulate through the engine while its running and clog areas where the head gasket may be leaking or blown. While not involving opening the engine case, this product can be hit-and-miss in application since it must circulate to the problem area. It cannot be used while antifreeze is still in the coolant tube. The antifreeze must be drained first.

Gaskets and Gasket Types

A new head gasket must be installed if the engine is opened. The old gasket may not be recycled or cleaned up to be used again. The old gasket is already compressed by the original assembly and wont work again. Many times it is also damaged on removal. The multiple-layers steel gasket is the typical gasket replacement used in modern cars for gasket replacements. The solid copper head gasket provides a solid seal but requires machining by a mechanic to fit properly. The extra work adds to repair costs.

The composite head gaskets are constructed from granite or asbestos. Due to the materials these gaskets are not favored anymore due to poor performance and also the health risk of asbestos in general.

Elastomeric head gaskets incorporate a steel center wrapped by silicone rubber. This provides a center integrity with a squishable edge for sealing. Unfortunately, the design failed on a performance level too often so their use has fallen out of favor.

Secondary Additives

Gasket sealant provides a silicone-based gum seal between the gasket and the metal engine parts closed up. This product primarily is used on older engines as more modern engine cases are fine-tuned to fit tightly when closed up with a new gasket.

Mercury Mystique was manufactured from 1995 till 2000 by Ford Motor Co. It is a compact family sedan that is powered by a 2.5L V6 Duratec engine, which produces 170 horsepower. The head gasket prevents oil leaks by sealing the gap between the cylinder head and the engine block. This engine rarely requires head gasket replacement. Replacing the head gasket is a complicated process, but it is nevertheless possible to perform the task at home.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative cable of your battery before performing any maintenance work on your engine to prevent electrical shock or accidental starting. Remove the nut from the negative post with a box-end wrench. Lift the cable from your battery, move it outside of the battery box and close the lid of the battery box.

2

Unscrew the water pump, unplug the lower radiator hose, take out the heated oxygen (HO2S) sensor, remove the camshafts and remove the 12 hydraulic lash adjusters.

3

Disconnect the coolant crossover tube and position it to one side. Remove the oil level indicator and tube. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation---or PCV---valve and hose. Remove the cylinder head with the exhaust manifold after unscrewing the cylinder head bolts. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head.

4

Discard the old cylinder head gasket. Clean all dirt, debris and coolant from the engine block cylinder head bolt holes. Failure to remove all foreign material may result in damaged threads, improperly tightened fasteners or damage to components.

5

Lay the new head gasket on the cylinder block.

6

Position the cylinder head and insert new cylinder head washers and bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in six stages. In the first stage tighten the bolts applying 30 foot-pounds of torque. Then tighten them by turning the torque wrench an additional 90 degrees. In the third stage, loosen the bolts by 360 degrees---one full turn. Then apply 30 foot-pounds of torque again, followed by an additional 90-degree turn and one final 90-degree turn of the torque wrench.

7

Install the exhaust manifold. Connect the PCV valve and hose. Tighten the bracket nut. Install the oil level indicator. Install the 12 hydraulic lash adjusters. Plug in the lower radiator hose. Install the water pump and connect the heated oxygen sensor (H02S).

Replacing the head gaskets on a Subaru 2.5 is a procedure that may be completed while the engine is still in the car. It is a challenging task that should be attempted only by someone with considerable mechanical skill and a full set of automotive service tools both metric and standard. Always wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from caustic chemicals and gasoline. Always have a fire extinguisher handy.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure in the fuel system by removing the gas cap, disconnecting the fuel pump relay and running the engine until it stops. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If your vehicle is before 2002 and it has the factory vehicle theft system, follow the instructions in the owners manual to disable it or your radio will not function when you reconnect the battery. Drain the cooling system. Recover the coolant for reuse or recycling.

2

Remove the spark plugs, timing belt covers, belt, camshaft sprockets, camshafts and disconnect the exhaust manifolds (use penetrating oil to loosen the bolts if necessary). Remove the intake manifold and any other hoses, brackets or accessories that block access to the sides of the engine.

3

Loosen the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order for tightening. This is generally from the top center to the bottom center then an "X" pattern for the ends. Remove the heads and the old gasket material carefully. Place a clean shop towel in each cylinder to prevent debris contamination.

4

Use the acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the gasket mating surfaces. Carefully scrape any stuck material from the surfaces. They must be absolutely clean to seal properly. Install the new gasket onto the head locating dowels. Lubricate the head bolts with engine oil and install them finger tight.

5

Use the torque wrench and torque angle gauge to tighten the head bolts in the exact sequence outlined by the references. Over-tightening will strip the threads and improper sequence can warp the head.

The steps necessary to check a valve cover gasket are in most part the same steps that would be needed for replacing the gasket. Some of the same tools will be necessary. The valve cover gasket is a rubber filter that ensures the valve cover itself seats well, so then the oil being pumped underneath the cover doesnt seep through it. Over time valve cover gaskets age and become weak, which may result in an oil leak around the lip of the valve cover gasket.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve cover by first taking off the hold down bolts securing it. Use caution in removing these bolts, as they can strip easily. Any difficulty turning the bolts should be remedied by spraying rust neutralizer or oil penetrator on the bolt and trying again.

2

Once the bolts are removed, gently pry off the valve cover. It may be necessary to use a flat head screwdriver or putty knife to pry a corner free before it can be lifted off.

3

Inspect the valve cover, both inside and out. Any problem with the gasket or valve cover will be obvious -- youll see an excessive amount of oil in and around the valve cover. A vehicle owner will generally have valid suspicion well in advance of inspecting the valve cover gasket; both a substantial oil leak and gray smoke coming from under the hood would be an indication that the valve cover and gasket need to be replaced.

4

Distinguish between a leak and a seep, if there is oil present around the valve cover. Seeping oil in cars over thirty thousand miles on the odometer is not that unusual and is not cause to replace the gasket. The distinction is in amounts -- most vehicle owners savvy enough to be inspecting the valve cover should know the difference between a leak and a seep. But in general, if theres oil all over the place, its a leak.

5

Replace the valve cover gasket if an oil leak is present.

6

Reinstall the valve cover, making sure to adhere to torque recommendations. Carefully secure the hold down bolts to make firm the valve cover seat.

The intake manifold gasket helps manage the flow of intake air, coolant and oil by sealing the cylinder head to the intake manifold. You can replace the gasket yourself to save a few hundred dollars.

Parts

The cost of the parts required to repair or replace your intake manifold gasket ranges from $25 to $100 in 2010, according to RepairPal, depending on the year and make of your car. This range applies if you have a 2005 Ford Taurus or a 2011 BMW 750Li.

Labor

The cost of labor to replace the gasket is expensive relative to the cost of the parts. As of 2010, expect to pay a mechanic between $325 and $425 to replace the gasket.

Total Cost

The total cost, therefore, to have a mechanic replace your intake manifold gasket ranges from $350 to $525.

The Grand Am was the name for five different generations of cars under the Pontiac brand. The last generation of the Grand Am was a compact car that was in production from 1999 to 2005. One of the engines available for the Pontiac Grand Am was a 3.4-liter V-6 with a cylinder head on each side of the engine. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gasket is different for each cylinder head.

Instructions

Left Cylinder Head Gasket

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench in order to avoid the discharge of fuel while replacing the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cap from the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Wrap a shop rag around the port connection on the fuel rail, and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the port connection. Place the bleed hose on the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline, and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Allow the excess fuel to drain into the container, and empty the remaining fuel in the fuel pressure gauge into the container. Replace the filler cap on the fuel tank.

3

Drain engine oil from the crankcase into a clean container, and store it for later use. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and store it for later use.

4

Disconnect the air cleaner assembly and throttle body from the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the crossover pipe and its heat shield from the left exhaust manifold. Detach the electrical wiring from the spark plugs, and remove the covers from the rocker arms. Disconnect the upper and lower intake manifolds from the engine.

5

Remove the left exhaust manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the tube for the oil level indicator from the left cylinder head. Disconnect the rocker arms and push rods from the left cylinder head. Remove the mounting bolts from the left cylinder head with a socket wrench. Lift the left cylinder head from the engine block, and remove the gasket from the engine block.

6

Place a new gasket on the engine block, and mount the cylinder head on top of the gasket. Fasten the mounting bolts to the left cylinder head, and tighten them to to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts another 90 degrees with a socket wrench.

7

Perform steps four and five in reverse sequence to install the remaining components. Tighten the mounting bolts for the rocker arms to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench, then tighten them another 30 degrees. Tighten the mounting bolts for the lower intake manifold to 115 inch-pounds, and tighten the bolts for the upper intake manifold to 18 foot-pounds.

8

Tighten the bolts for the rocker arm covers to 89 inch-pounds, and tighten the retaining nuts for the left exhaust manifold to 12 foot-pounds. Tighten the bolts for the exhaust crossover pipe to 18 foot-pounds, and tighten the bolts for the heat shield on the crossover pipe to 89 inch-pounds.

9

Connect the cable for the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant, and fill the crankcase with oil. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

Right Cylinder Head Gasket

10

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench in order to avoid the discharge of fuel while replacing the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cap from the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.

11

Wrap a shop rag around the port connection on the fuel rail, and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the port connection. Place the bleed hose on the fuel pressure gauge into a container approved for gasoline, and open the valve on the pressure gauge. Allow the excess fuel to drain into the container, and empty the remaining fuel in the fuel pressure gauge into the container. Replace the filler cap on the fuel tank.

12

Drain engine oil from the crankcase into a clean container, and store it for later use. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a clean container, and store it for later use.

13

Disconnect the air cleaner assembly and throttle body from the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the crossover pipe and its head shield from the right exhaust manifold. Disconnect the electrical connector for the oxygen sensor. Detach the electrical wiring from the spark plugs, and remove the covers from the rocker arms. Disconnect the upper and lower intake manifolds from the engine.

14

Remove the right exhaust pipe from the right exhaust manifold. Disconnect the right exhaust manifold from the engine. Disconnect the rocker arms and push rods from the left cylinder head. Remove the mounting bolts from the right cylinder head with a socket wrench. Lift the right cylinder head from the engine block, and remove the gasket from the engine block.

15

Place a new gasket on the engine block, and mount the cylinder head on top of the gasket. Fasten the mounting bolts to the left cylinder head, and tighten them to to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts another 90 degrees with a socket wrench.

16

Perform steps four and five in reverse sequence to install the remaining components. Tighten the mounting bolts for the rocker arms to 89 inch-pounds with a torque wrench, then tighten them another 30 degrees. Tighten the mounting bolts for the lower intake manifold to 115 inch-pounds, and tighten the bolts for the upper intake manifold to 18 foot-pounds.

17

Tighten the bolts for the rocker arm covers to 89 inch-pounds, and tighten the retaining nuts for the left exhaust manifold to 12 foot-pounds. Tighten the bolts for the exhaust crossover pipe to 18 foot-pounds, and tighten the bolts for the heat shield on the crossover pipe to 89 inch-pounds.

18

Connect the cable for the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Fill the radiator with coolant, and fill the crankcase with oil. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The 22R engine has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.4 liters. Toyota manufactured this engine from 1981 to 1995, and it is the standard engine in Toyota Celicas made from 1981 to 1984. The 22R has a single cylinder head for all four cylinders, which forms part of the combustion chamber. The cylinder head gasket for the 22R engine lies between the cylinder head and the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the flange nuts from the exhaust pipe, and detach it from the exhaust manifold. Place a large container under the radiator drains, and drain the coolant from the cooling system into the container for reuse.

2

Disconnect the air cleaner from the carburetor with a socket wrench, including its hoses. Place a shop cloth over the carburetor to keep debris out of the engine. Disconnect any vacuum hoses and fuel lines as required to gain access to the cylinder head.

3

Record the positions for the electrical leads on the spark plugs, and detach them them from the spark plugs. Mark the distributor housing and engine block to ensure you can install the distributor in the correct position later. Disconnect the distributor assembly with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting nuts from the valve cover, and detach the valve cover. Detach the camshaft seals.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the timing chain. Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and detach the distributor drive gear from the camshaft. Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with wire, and disconnect the cover for the timing chain from the cylinder head.

5

Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Insert pry bars under the front and rear of the rocker arm assembly, and pry it off the mounting dowels. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block, and drain the oil from the crankcase to avoid contaminating the oil with coolant.

6

Remove the old gasket from the engine block, and apply liquid sealer to the gasket mounting surface on the block. Place a new cylinder head gasket on the engine block, and mount the cylinder head to the dowels.

7

Turn the camshaft clockwise until its timing pin points straight up. Remove the wire holding the camshaft sprocket in place, and turn the crankshaft until the hole in the camshaft sprocket points straight up. Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with the length of wire. Mount the rocker arm assembly over the dowels on the engine block.

8

Tighten the mounting bolts to the cylinder head in three separate passes with a torque wrench. The final torque on the mounting bolts must be between 52 and 63 foot-pounds. Replace the timing chain cover, and tighten its mounting bolt to between 7 and 11 foot-pounds.

9

Remove the wire holding the camshaft sprocket in place, and mount the sprocket to the dowel on the camshaft. Mount the drive gear for the distributor to the crankshaft, and tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft to between 51 and 65 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks, and adjust the valve clearance. Turn the crankshaft 352 degrees clockwise to align the Before Top Dead Center mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankshaft.

11

Install the distributor and spark plugs, using the marks you made in Step Three as a guide. Install the seals for the camshaft, and replace the engine oil. Lubricate the distributor drive gear and valve rockers with clean engine oil. Replace the valve cover, and tighten its mounting bolts to between 8 and 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

12

Connect all electrical wiring and vacuum hoses you removed to access the cylinder heads. Replace the coolant in the cooling system, and connect the air cleaner to the carburetor with a socket wrench. Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold, and tighten the flange bolts to between 25 and 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

13

Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and start the engine. Wait for the engine to reach its operating temperature, and adjust the timing, idle speed and fuel mixture.