Repair 7

Wheel alignment adjusts the wheel angles so that they are parallel to one another and to the ground. Proper wheel alignment and related maintenance is critical to keeping a vehicle in top condition. Wheel alignment is also important for safety reasons--poor alignment can result in issues regarding uneven tire wear and tracking, as well as create steering problems.

How Wheel Alignments Are Performed

Wheel alignment technicians check an automobiles alignment by test driving it prior to servicing it. Test drives provide the technician firsthand knowledge of steering and tire performance, giving him important information that will allow him to effectively diagnose any issues.

Front-Wheel Alignment

Front wheel alignment service inspects and adjusts the alignment of the vehicles front tires and axles. A car that regularly pulls to one side or has uneven tire wear indicates the need of a front-wheel alignment, especially when confirmed by a technician. As of 2010, front-end alignment can run approximately $30 to $70, depending on the company and location.

Four-Wheel Alignment

Four-wheel alignment inspects all tires, but technicians may perform it in two different ways. A wheel technician can inspect all four wheels but only service the two front wheels, or he can inspect and service all four wheels, which is known as a full four-wheel alignment. Full alignment services are more expensive than other types of alignment services because of the extensive work. As of 2010, this service can cost between $50 to $100 depending on the company and its location.

The Ford F150 is a full size pickup truck manufactured by the Ford Motor Company for over six decades, with its 5.4-liter V8 engine known for reliability and durability. The exhaust manifold gasket is an important component of the engine as it prevents the toxic exhaust fumes from reaching the interior of your pickup, and it needs to be replaced if it fails. The installation of the new exhaust manifold gasket is a straightforward process that will take no more than four hours.

Instructions

1

Raise and support the vehicle on the hoist. On full wheel drive models, remove the front wheel opening molding. Remove the front fender splash shield.

2

Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and bracket. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Disconnect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Detach the upper and lower EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings.

3

Remove the nuts and the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the old exhaust manifold gasket. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage and cracks.

4

Position the exhaust manifold gasket. Set in place the exhaust manifold and loosely install the nuts. Then tighten the nuts using the torque wrench. Apply 18 foot pounds of torque. Install the three-way catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold nuts. Connect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten both fittings, starting at the top, in two stages. In the first stage hand tighten the fittings and then apply 30-44 foot pounds of torque.

5

Connect the differential pressure feedback EGR sensor hoses. Attach the brake booster vacuum hose, then bracket and tighten the nut, applying 89 inch pounds of torque. Install the front fender splash shield. On 4-by-4 vehicles, install the front wheel opening molding. Lower the vehicle.

The SRT-4 is a sportier version of the Neon that the Dodge division of Chrysler produced from 2003 to 2005. The primary difference between the SRT-4 and the base model Neon is that the 4-cylinder 2.4-liter engine in the SRT-4 is turbocharged. This does not affect the fuel pressure regulator installation, as this procedure is the same for all Neons made from 2000 to 2005. The fuel pressure regulator in an SRT-4 is part of the fuel filter assembly.

Instructions

1

Remove the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the vapor pressure in the fuel tank. Take the relay for the fuel pump out of the fuse box located in the engine compartment.

2

Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Repeat this procedure until the engine fails to start to ensure you have removed the fuel from the fuel system. Detach the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to ensure you dont start the engine while replacing the fuel pump.

3

Press down on the quick-connect fittings for the fuel line and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter. Hold the locking spring tab on the fuel filter down and turn the fuel filter 90 degrees counterclockwise. Detach the fuel filter from the fuel pump and discard the fuel filters O-rings.

4

Lubricate the new fuel filter O-rings with engine oil and place them on the fuel filter. Place the fuel filter into its socket on the fuel pump so that the the hold-down tabs on the fuel filter align with the fuel pump flanges. Hold the fuel filter down as you turn it 90 degrees clockwise to lock the fuel filter into place.

5

Connect the fuel line to the fuel filter, then attach the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

There are commonly two oxygen sensors in the 4.3 liter engine exhaust system on a Chevy truck. One is the "upstream" sensor located on the drivers side Y-pipe near the manifold and the other "downstream" sensor which is located midway down the passenger side near the catalytic converter. Buying a direct-fit replacement sensor would be strongly advised. Its not much more expensive and it will save you time and effort struggling to rewire the universal after-market sensors.

Instructions

How to Install an Oxygen Sensor in 4.3L Chevy Truck

1

Drive the Chevy truck up onto the car ramps on a level surface and place it in gear or park. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels.

2

Grab your tools, put on the safety glasses, and crawl underneath the truck on a creeper if you have one.

3

Locate the sensor you are changing. The front one is located on the drivers side up near the manifold and screwed into the Y-pipe. The rear one is located on the passenger side, down just before the catalytic converter.

4

Follow the oxygen sensor wire to the plug outlet. Unplug the sensor wire from the harness plug. Press in on the clip lock with the screwdriver and separate the plugs.

5

Place the oxygen sensor wire into the slot on the side of the oxygen sensor socket and place the ratchet on the end of the socket. Try to remove the oxygen sensor. If it is stubbornly stuck, remove the socket and ratchet and light the torch. Heat the pipe area around the sensor up, but do not heat the sensor as well. Once the pipe area is good and hot (cherry red) remove the sensor. If you had to use the torch to extract the sensor, allow the pipe area to cool down before proceeding.

6

Screw the new sensor in by hand. You will note that the new sensor has a light coating of anti-seize lubricant on it. Do not wipe this off. It will help for future removal and replacement. Tighten snugly with the ratchet and socket, but do not overtighten the sensor. You do not want to strip the threads of the sensor.

7

Plug the sensor back into the harness plug. Remove the tools and crawl out from under the truck.

8

Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and drive it down off the ramps.

The thermostat in the 4.3-liter GMC Sierra pickup truck regulates operating temperatures within the engine to prevent overheating and premature engine failure. This is a big task for a very small, inexpensive part. When the thermostat stops regulating properly, you will notice the temperature gauge in the dash start to rise. You will smell the sweet odor of overheating coolant and your truck will eventually pour steam out of the engine bay. Changing the thermostat is a fairly easy job that shouldnt take you very long at all.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood and prop it open. Position a drain pan under the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator. Loosen the radiator cap. Open the valve with a pliers. Drain two gallons of coolant into a clean drain pan. Close the drain valve with the pliers.

2

Follow the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing, behind the alternator.

3

Remove the two bolts that secure the housing to the engine. Hose removal is not necessary to remove the thermostat housing.

4

Lift the housing up and shove it and the hose out of your way.

5

Pull the old thermostat out of the engine and place the new one in. You must place the new one into the engine and orientate it in the same manner as the old one.

6

Lift the old gasket off the engine, wipe down the surface with a clean towel and place the new thermostat gasket into place.

7

Place the thermostat housing back on the engine and bolt it into place.

8

Remove the radiator cap. Pour the two gallons of fluid back into the radiator. Replace and tighten the cap. Close the hood.

Vortec engines have a swirl port in their combustion chambers, which allows the fuel and air to mix more readily. General Motors has manufactured the six-cylinder 4.3-liter Vortec engines since 1985, primarily for use in light Chevrolet trucks made before 1995. The intake manifold is the part of the engine, and delivers the fuel/air mixture to the cylinders. The procedure for removing the intake manifold is similar for all full-size Chevrolet trucks made from 1988 to 1995.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant in the radiator into a container, and seal the container for later use.

2

Disconnect the air cleaner and the distributor with a socket wrench. Detach the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from their respective brackets.

3

Remove the bracket for the air compressor, alternator and idler pulley from the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the electrical wiring and vacuum lines from the intake manifold. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation valve, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the fuel line from the intake manifold.

4

Detach the heater pipe and upper radiator hose from the radiator. Disconnect the vacuum lines for the power brakes and exhaust gas recirculation valve, if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the electrical wiring from the ignition coil.

5

Disconnect any remaining brackets and sensors from the right side of the intake manifold. Detach the electrical wiring harness on the right side of the intake manifold and push it out of your way. Remove the mounting bolts from the intake manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the intake manifold and its gaskets from the engine.