Repair 7

Most motorists view catalytic converters as a mixed blessing. They improve air quality by reducing tailpipe emissions, but they also add back-pressure that handicaps performance. This was the case with early pellet-based catalytic converters, but according to tests in "Import Tuner" magazines October 2006 issue, the monolith "brick" ones we use today have a minimal effect on the engine. Since replacing a bad catalytic converter can cost thousands, here are some ways to buy time.

Clean it

If your converter has a carbon buildup or mild oil fouling, try cleaning it before replacing it. Catalytic converter cleaner/deodorizers are available for $13 to $25, and you can add them to your gas. As you drive, the cleaner removes deposits from the converter and the rest of the engine. If this doesnt solve the problem, your converter might be clogged with sulfur from your fuel and phosphorous from your oil. Scientists at Madrids Institute of Catalysis and Petrochemistry have discovered that diluted citric acid can remove these deposits without affecting your converters platinum. Just soak the catalytic converter in a citric acid solution for six hours; and if it doesnt have other problems, itll be as good as new.

Stop the Rattles

When a catalytic converter begins to fail, its monolith substrate filling cracks, and the pieces rattle. Since the substrate absorbs the toxic exhaust gases, the longer you keep it from coming apart the better. The best way to do this is by using a mechanics stethoscope to find out where the loose pieces are. Drill a small hole at each location and put a large drywall screw in it. The screws will hold the loose pieces in place and delay the inevitable replacement of your converter. Its also possible for your catalytic converters heat shield to start rattling. You can fix the problem by screwing hose clamps together to make a giant hose clamp that fits around the heat shield. Just crank it down until its tight enough to keep the shield from moving.

Gut it

When all else fails, you have one more option before replacing the catalytic converter. You should only choose this option when the monolith substrate filling of your converter is too cracked to repair or too fouled to clean out. At this stage you can only unclog the converter by removing its substrate filling. Gutting the converters contents will relieve the back-pressure in the exhaust and make your car drivable until you get a new converter. Start by unbolting the intermediate pipe from the back of the converter to expose its interior. Insert a big crowbar into the converter and start banging it around. Hit the crowbar with a hammer from time to time to speed up the process. You can check your progress with a flashlight and use a shop vac to suck out substrate pieces. You can also idle the car a few times to blow out stubborn chunks. After a final pass with the shop vac, you can reconnect the intermediate pipe and get back on the road. Always use a mask and creeper for this job to avoid contact with the substrate.

A time-tested technique for removing small car-dents can often be accomplished with a household plunger. Small dents and dings are inevitable for some drivers, but you can quickly remove a dent if the damage is not severe. Keep in mind that the household plunger wont induce a miracle. A plunger will not help with a large dent, or one with extensive paint damage.

Instructions

1

Clean the area around the dent with soap and water, wiping away all dirt and dust. Use your cloth to completely dry the area. This will give you a better view of the dent and help determine whether it can be repaired via the plunger method.

2

Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to the bottom rim of your plunger; this will allow it to form a better seal when you place the plunger over the dent. The tighter seal allows the plunger to create more suction.

3

Place the plunger directly over the dent and firmly push it into place. Make sure the plunger covers the entire dent.

4

Push in on the plunger to create suction. Quickly pull out with the handle to "pop" the dent.

5

Inspect the area to see if the dent popped out completely. If it is only partially repaired, repeat the process.

Threaded inserts provide threads in soft materials or replace damaged threads. The method used to fix the insert will vary depending on which type of insert you find in the part. The coiled wire threads provided by an expanding threaded insert are unlike cut threads produced by tapping metal. This makes running a tap through the insert to fix damaged threads impossible. However, solid sleeve inserts provide a workable surface that requires less effort to fix the threads.

Instructions

Fixing a Damaged Coil Type Threaded Insert

1

Slide the end of a threaded insert removal tool into the end of the damaged insert. Hit the end of the tool with a hammer to lock it in the insert.

2

Turn the handle of the removal tool counterclockwise to remove the insert from the base material. Grab the insert with a pair of self-locking pliers. Turn the removal tool clockwise, while you hold the self-locking pliers to remove the insert from the tool. Dispose of the damaged insert.

3

Turn a threaded insert clockwise to thread it onto the end of an insert tool.

4

Thread the insert into the base material hole. Stop turning the thread insert when its top wire sits even with the top of the hole. Turn the tool handle counterclockwise to remove it from the insert.

5

Slide a tang removal tool into the threaded insert. Strike the end of the tool with a hammer to remove the tang.

Fixing Threads in a Solid Threaded Insert

6

Select a tap from a tap set matching the damaged internal threads of the threaded insert.

7

Secure the tap in a tee-handle tap wrench. Coat the threaded section of the tap with cutting fluid.

8

Place the end of the tap in the end of the threaded insert. Adjust the tee-handle tap wrench to set the tap straight to the insert. Turn the handle of the tap wrench clockwise. Reverse your direction and turn a half-turn counterclockwise, if the tap binds in the insert. Continue alternating your turning direction until you reach the bottom of the insert. Remove the tap from the hole.

General Motors uses a Duramax diesel engine in some of their full-size trucks. Normally, a Duramax idles between 500 and 1000 RPMs when the engine is cold, but with a warm engine the RPMs typically reach around 2000. If you need to fix your idle speed, its important to disconnect the battery first to keep you from getting shocked while you work. Unlike most vehicles, the Duramax engine has two batteries instead of one. However, since they are hard-wired together -- running parallel -- you only disconnect the one closest to the engine. Overall its a simple process and only takes a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Pull the hood release lever under the drivers side of the dashboard. Open and secure the hood of the truck. Then, locate the batteries. Youll notice two batteries sitting to the right of the engine, but only the battery closest to the engine connects to it. This is the one that needs to be disconnected.

2

Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the black cover on the negative battery terminal. Using a wrench, loosen the nut attached to the clamp. Then, pull the negative battery cable from the post. Set it to the side where it wont touch anything metal.

3

Using a flathead screwdriver, take the red cover off the positive battery terminal. Use a wrench to loosen the nut that holds the clamp in place. Then, pull the positive battery cable from the post. Put it to the side and make sure it wont come in contact with anything metal.

Airbags, which are normally located on the driver and passenger sides of a vehicle, are important additions to car safety designed to deploy on impact to reduce bodily harm in the event of a car crash. Airbags are controlled by an airbag control module (sometimes referred to as the airbag computer, similar to the "black box" found in planes), which is located inside the vehicle. The control module senses when a crash has occurred and immediately activates the vehicles airbags. In the event an airbag deploys without a crash, it can be repaired and the fault and error codes in the airbag module reset. (See Reference 1 and Resource.)

Instructions

1

Assemble the tools needed to diagnose and fix the blown airbags and the airbag control module, including an airbag control module scanner tool and a code reader. These can be purchased at most auto parts stores. A code reader is a diagnostic tool that can read and clear fault codes from your vehicles computer, while the scanner tool displays system operating information and other data that indicate the operational state of your car, such as oxygen sensor outputs, loop status (open or closed), coolant temperature, airflow, throttle position and fuel trim values. (See References 1 and 4.)

2

Locate your vehicles airbag control module. Airbag control modules can be mounted in different locations inside a vehicle, including under the driver or passenger seat, behind the steering column, in the kick panel and under the center console. Once you have located the airbag control module, plug the scanner tool cable into the control panel. The scanner tool accesses the memory on the control module and displays the computer codes that are operating your cars airbag module. (See Reference 1, 2 and 4.)

3

Analyze the series of computer codes displayed on the airbag control module and the diagnostic scan tool. Look up displayed fault and error code number (and code description, if available) in a standard airbag code Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) reference chart to get information on the faults detected in your car, including the reason your cars airbag warning indicator light is on or flashing. If you dont have a DTC chart, look online for DTC software for your vehicle. This diagnostic information will help you decide the best method of fixing your blown airbag. (See Reference 4 and Resource 1 and 2.)

4

Fix and re-program the airbag control module. Order and replace blown control module parts, such as capacitors and resistors. Clear and reset fault and error codes on the airbag control module similar to how you would restore a home computers hard drive. (See Reference 1 and 2.)

5

Test the re-programmed airbag control module to ensure that the non-deployed airbags will activate with the re-programmed module in an accident. Get into your vehicle and turn the key. Look at the dash to see your airbag light (the airbag light bulb should have been checked during the diagnostic stage). If non-deployed airbags are in good working condition, the airbag light should come on for seven to 10 seconds and then go out. The airbag light should not come on while you are driving. (See Reference 3.)

Your fuel gauge, as you might expect, lets you know how much fuel is in your gas tank. A defective fuel gauge can be a symptom of several problems such as a blown fuse, a broken circuit in the dash panel, or a fractured float -- the part attached to the sending unit in the intake fuel pump. In modern cars, you have two fuel pumps: the intake and main fuel pumps. The intake fuel pump is responsible for getting the gas up and out of the gas tank and registering the amount of fuel in the tank. The main fuel pump, located underneath the car, then grabs the fuel and sends it to the engine.

Instructions

Blown Fuse

1

Access the fuse box. Consult your cars manual to determine the exact location of the fuse box.

2

Remove the cover of the fuse box using your hands. Flip it over to view the schematic diagram to determine which fuse controls the fuel gauge.

3

Remove the fuse by hand and look at it in the light to ensure the element is not broken.

4

Replace the fuse if the element is broken simply by inserting a new fuse where you pulled out the old fuse.

5

Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and see if the fuel gauge is now working. You do not need to start the car.

Broken Circuit in Dash Panel

6

Insert two specialty hooks on both sides of the dash panel to free up the panel enough to access the back of the panel.

7

Disconnect all electrical wire leads to the back of the panel manually. This action is similar to unplugging an appliance from a wall socket.

8

Pull out dash panel and place on the work bench. With a magnifying glass and ample lighting, inspect the back of the dash panel for a broken solder circuit. This is a slow and tedious process. If a broken solder circuit does exist, you will be able to see the breaking point in the circuitry.

9

Replace the entire dash panel by inserting a new dash panel where the old dash panel had been. Reconnect all the electrical wire leads manually and then snap the new dash panel in place with a swift push using your hands.

Fractured Float

10

Consult your cars manual to confirm the location of the access panel to the fuel tank panel. If the fuel tank panel is located in the trunk of the vehicle, remove all the contents in the trunk of the car which includes the spare tire and jack and all cluttered debris, and the cloth lining in order to find the access panel to the fuel tank. The fuel tank panel is usually fastened with 4 to 8 10-mm bolts.

11

Unfasten the bolts with an air ratchet and 8 to 10mm sockets to remove the fuel tank access panel. Disconnect the wiring harness that leads to the intake fuel pump sending unit with your hands.

12

Use the brass hammer over the brass punch to loosen the additional panel that leads directly into the fuel tank and then use your hands to completely pullout the panel which includes the sending unit.

13

Take the entire sending unit to the work bench to inspect. You should now be able to visually identify if the float is loaded with fuel and see the fracture if one exists. The float resembles and works like a ping-pong ball in water.

14

To confirm that this is the problem, attach the new sending unit to the wiring harness and place the key in the on position -- move float up and down -- the fuel gauge should go up and down.

The repair of your 2000 Malibu Horn is essential to the safety of your vehicle. A working horn allows other people to be aware of your presence to help avoid accidents. A working horn is also needed to pass state inspection. You will first need to purchase a replacement horn at a junkyard or used parts dealer. The repair of your horn is straightforward once youve secured a replacement part.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Malibu and prop it into place.

2

Locate the horn behind the grille of the vehicle.

3

Unscrew the screws holding the horn into place.

4

Unplug the power cable that is secured into the horns socket. Remove the horn from the vehicle.

5

Slide the new horn into place behind the cars grille. Screw it into place so that it is secure. Plug the cable into the horn.

6

Close the hood and clean your work area.

The gas pedal of a car controls the mechanism that releases air into the engine to allow it to increase power and boost the traveling speed. The air running through the intake hose controlled by the pedal contains a lot of dirt and contaminants that can block up your cars system. This can result in a poor performance and sticking when you press down on the pedal. You can easily fix this problem, with only a little bit of mechanical knowledge.

Instructions

1

Park your car and open your hood. Locate the black flex tube connecting the air filter and the engine and release the hose clamp holding the tube to the engine.

2

Push the hose aside so you can access the manifold on the engine where the air enters. Remove the nuts and hoses holding the manifold in place and take the part out of the car.

3

Wipe out the opening of the manifold where the hose was attached using newspaper. This will remove and large pieces of dirt and buildup on the part.

4

Run a paper towel around inside the part to get as much of the dirt as you can. Spray a degreaser around inside the part and wipe it out again. You can leave the degreaser to soak for several minutes if the dirt is very stubborn.

5

Push the disc inside the manifold so it moves inward and clean the area past it in the same way. Return the manifold back to the engine and reconnect the hoses and nuts.

6

Reconnect the flex hose onto the manifold and tighten the hose clamp to secure it in place.

Difficult steering is a safety hazard while on the road, and also makes control of the vehicle extremely difficult. Any signs of difficult steering require immediate attention. The Toyota Camry uses a standard power steering assembly that contains a reservoir, pump and belt and pulley system connected to the steering column on one side and the drive train on the other. You can fix many causes of difficult steering by replacing the power steering belt or by adding power steering fluid. However, more-complex repairs might require you to hire a certified mechanic.

Instructions

1

Verify the tire pressure to ensure that the tires are properly inflated to the level indicated on the tire. Low tires will affect the steering by making the wheels difficult to turn. Fill the Camrys tires with air to the proper level.

2

Open the reservoir -- located on the right side of the Camry engine -- for the power steering fluid, and check that it is at the proper level and that it is not black or thick. It should be a dark red and have the consistency of syrup. Low or old steering fluid affects the power steering and will even lock up the steering wheel if it is too low. Replace the fluid or top it off as necessary.

3

Look for any leaks or loose hoses between the steering column and the power steering unit and the unit and the drive train. Replace any hoses or connectors that show signs of leaks or are simply old.

4

Examine the power steering belt for signs of frays or kinks. Replace the belt with a new one to prevent any steering control issues.

5

Start the engine and look for leaks while the steering fluid in the pump is under pressure.

6

Have an assistant turn the wheels from side to side to listen for noises that indicate damage to the belt or power steering pump. Have a new power steering pump installed by a professional.

7

Lift the small pulley located between the power steering unit and the steering column with your hand, and verify that the belt is not kinked at the pulley or that the pulley is not in some way damaged. Watch the pulley operate with the engine running and the assistant again turning the wheels from side to side. Replace the pulley if it is in any way damaged or causing the belt to not move freely.

8

Lubricate the tie rods and ball joints at the front end of the vehicle. Dry, damaged or worn tie rods and ball joints will make it difficult to easily turn the wheels. Have new rods or ball joints installed by a certified mechanic to ensure proper and safe driving.

Fixing the brake lights on your 1998 Lincoln Continental will take just a few minutes and you can do it without any tools. The taillight assembly in your Lincoln is accessible from the inside of the trunk and uses a 1157 bulb to illuminate the brake and taillights. The 1157 bulb is commonly available from any auto parts store, a dealer or department stores.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk of your car and pull the trim away from the back of the trunk directly behind the taillight assembly. Locate the bulb socket on the back of the assembly, grasp it with your fingers and turn it counterclockwise.

2

Pull the socket and bulb out of the assembly. Press in slightly on the bulb and turn it counterclockwise. Pull it straight out of the socket. Discard the old bulb.

3

Insert a new 1157 bulb into the socket, depress it slightly, and rotate the bulb clockwise to lock it into the socket. Insert the bulb and socket into the rear of the taillight assembly and then turn it clockwise to lock it in place.

4

Push the trim panel up over the taillight assembly and close the trunk.

You may get a dent in your car hood if an object falls on it or you sat on the hood and it bent. You can save a trip to the garage and money by solving the problem at home. With a few basic tools, you can repair your bent car hood without the need of professional assistance.

Instructions

1

Assess the damage. If the car hood has completely buckled, you may not be able to fix it unless you are a mechanic. However, if the hood is bent from daily wear and tear (from sitting on it, for example), you can hammer out minor dents.

2

Remove the hood of your car. Unscrew it from the hinges, which are usually located underneath the front windscreen. Refer to the cars manual if you are unsure about how to do this because each model of car is different. Get a friend to help because the hood may be heavy.

3

Place the hood upside down on the grass or an old piece of carpet to prevent scratching the paint while you repair the hood.

4

Use the hammer to knock the dents out of the car hood. Strike the hood with firm, steady hits directly on the bend or dent. Knock the dents out slowly. It is better to use several, gentler hits instead of one strong hit that may cause more damage to the hood.

5

Use the block of wood on areas with large dents. Place the wood on the area and hammer the wood, instead of directly hitting the car hood. The wooden block will spread the pressure out over a greater area and help fix the dent.

6

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the bend has been removed or minimized to your satisfaction. Turn the hood over if you need to work at the bends from the opposite side.

7

Paint the damaged area, if necessary, with car paint that matches the original color of the car. Let it dry.

8

Replace the hood by screwing it back onto the hinges. Align the hood correctly with the grill so that it closes properly.

Repairing a leaking valve cover is a straightforward procedure. If the valve cover on your Chevy engine is leaking, the most likely cause is the gasket between the head and the valve cover. The quickest way to fix this problem is to replace the gasket with a new one. There are sealers on the market that can help, but they are not a replacement for a properly formed gasket installed correctly on the engine. New gaskets are available at most auto parts stores or through a car dealer.

Instructions

1

Locate the valve cover on the top of the head or heads on the engine. Remove the bolts around the edges of the valve cover with a socket and ratchet, then remove the cover from the head. Set the valve cover aside.

2

Place a rag in the head, around its edges, to keep any debris from falling inside the head, then use a gasket scraper and remove any gasket material or sealer from the mounting surface of the head. Work all the way around the head, making sure you do not leave anything on the surface, or the new gasket will not seal properly.

3

Turn the valve cover over, with the inside facing up, and clean the gasket mounting surface with the gasket scraper; again, make sure there is nothing left on the surface. Using a clean rag and some brake cleaner, wipe down the inside of the valve cover and allow it to dry.

4

Lay the new gasket out on a clean piece of cardboard and lightly spray the gasket with gasket tack. Let it sit for about five minutes, then lay the gasket into the valve cover, tack-side down. Place the valve cover back on the cylinder head, then install the retaining bolts.

5

Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Do not over-tighten the bolts, or you will crush the gasket and cause it to leak. Repeat the process on the opposite valve cover if you are working on a six- or eight-cylinder engine.