Repair 7

A strut is a suspension component that dampens an automobiles movements and prevents it from bouncing on its springs. Struts are often expensive to replace, but driving on a broken strut is not a good idea.

Suspension Damage

When a strut is broken, one area of the vehicle is free to move farther and faster than the others. This increases the wear on the other suspension components and may cause the failure of these components. Damage to other suspension components may greatly increase the cost of needed repairs.

Steering Damage

The increased movements allowed by the broken strut may also increase the strain on the steering system and cause it to become damaged. Also, suspension and steering system components are typically mounted close to each other. When a strut breaks, the strut itself may strike and damage steering components.

Loss of Control

The suspension system is responsible for keeping the wheels in contact with the road, this is especially important on rough road surfaces and during emergency braking. Without a properly operating strut, the vehicle will tend to bounce, causing a wheel to not properly contact the road. This can cause a driver to lose control of the vehicle.

There are two types of water tanks installed on RVs. The gray water tank refers to the holding tank that catches water that runs from your RVs sinks and shower. The black water tank catches waste water that is ejected from your RVs toilet. RVs have tank sensors which monitor the amount of waste water inside your black water storage tank. This sensors let you know when it is time to empty the tank. These sensors do wear out and fail sometimes. If this happens, they should be replaced.

Instructions

1

Drive your RV to a designated waste disposal center and empty out your black water tank.

2

Park your RV on a flat surface and turn on the emergency brake.

3

Locate the sensor attached to your black water tank. It is mounted to the side of the tank.

4

Push in on the two tabs on the side of the old tank sensors electric wiring harness. As you depress these two tabs, pull the sensor wire plug out of the back of the old sensor.

5

Place your wrench over the bolt built onto your old tank sensor. Turn it counter-clockwise, or to the left, to loosen, then remove it.

6

Use an old rag to wipe down the area where your new tank sensor will be installed. Clean off the end of the electric wiring harness by wiping it with the rag. Thread the new sensor into the hold. You can do this by hand to get it started. Slip your wrench over the bolt part of the sensor and turn it to the right to tighten it firmly. Once it is tight, plug the electric wiring harness into the new sensor.

Acting as both a dehumidifier and cooling system, air conditioners in Dodge vehicles are a standard feature in many of the brands cars and trucks. The cool, dehumidified air travels into the passenger compartment through vents in the dash. The air conditioning system is comprised of four major parts, including the compressor, condenser, expansion valve and evaporator.

Compressor

Considered the major component of the air conditioning unit, the compressor acts as a means of compressing the refrigerant present in the air conditioning unit into a heated gas. The compressor is equally responsible for the circulation and movement of the refrigerant through the air conditioning unit. Due to its role in compressing the refrigerant, the compressor produces excessive heat. Lubricants present in the unit allow the compressor to function properly. A secondary part of the compressor is the compressor clutch, which is located at the front of the compressor itself. The compressor clutch is constructed of a clutch hub, pulley and field coil. The clutch hub is attached to the primary shaft of the compressor. When the field coil becomes galvanized it leads to the production of a magnetic field that acts to bring the hub in the direction of the pulley, which reacts by pulling the hub toward the pulley and engaging the clutch. The energizing of the clutch begins the pumping of the compressor.

Condenser

The condenser, the second major component of the air conditioning unit, acts as a means of cooling the hot gas from the compressor and converting it into a cooler liquid form. Found by the radiator, the condenser is where the liquid passes into slits between the coils that line the component. An electric fan located within the unit assists in propelling the cooled liquid through the slits.

Expansion Valve

After the cooled liquid is processed in the condenser it moves into the expansion valve. The expansion valve acts as a means of lowering the pressure of the liquid gas before it moves into the evaporator.

Evaporator

The final step in the air conditioning unit in a Dodge vehicle is the evaporator. The evaporator further cools the gas. This cooling occurs when a fan attached to the front portion of the air conditioning unit blows over the evaporator. The action of the fan and evaporator combined provide additional cooling before the air is propelled through the vents of the vehicle and into the interior.

If you are a novice when it comes to the automotive world, you may notice your mechanic using a bunch of jargon that youre not familiar with. The term "Siamese port" may confuse you at first, but its a simple term to comprehend once you know what it refers to.

Port Definition

A port, as it relates to the automotive world, is part of an internal combustion engine. The port is typically straight, looking almost like a pipe, and there can sometimes be several ports in one engine.

Siamese Port

A Siamese port refers to a car port that has a double-cylinder construction, or two ports welded together. The twin ports stuck side by side is where it gets its name, and this type of port is typically found in larger engines.

Function

The Siamese port has two openings that both lead to the combustion chamber of the engine. The port also regulates the fuel-air mixture, and deflects and constricts airflow to the appropriate areas of the engine to assist the control valve.

Parts

The Siamese port will be attached to several engine parts, making it easy to locate. A control valve will be fitted at one portion of the port as well as a deflection valve.

The 1998 Pontiac Grand Am has two parts to the ignition: the lock key and tumbler, and the electrical switch. The ignition switch is located on the steering column under the dash. The rod from the lock and key runs to the ignition switch to activate it. When you turn the key, this in turn will activate the ignition switch to make your vehicle start. All of your accessories run off your ignition switch.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent a short.

2

Detach the screws in the steering column cover and remove both pieces. You will need a Phillips screwdriver for the screw. You may need a flat screwdriver to separate the pieces of the cover.

3

Find the ignition switch on the steering column. The switch is attached by a screw or a bolt. Unscrew the bolt or screw and remove the ignition switch .

4

Unsnap the wiring from the switch and remove the wiring harness.

5

Replace the wiring in the back of the ignition switch. Replace the switch to the steering column and attach the screw or bolt. You will need a screwdriver or a wrench.

6

Replace the two parts of the steering column and replace the screws.

7

Rotate the key to crank the engine to start the vehicle. The new ignition switch will allow the vehicle to start up.

Cars no longer use tubes. All car tires are tubeless. However, if the spare tire in your trunk wont hold air, it might mean that the wheel itself is defective or has a small leak and air is leaking out through the rim. If this is the case, you can have a tube installed in the tire for limited use. There are tubes of all sizes and they are very forgiving if they are close to the right size.

Instructions

1

Take the spare tire out of the trunk. Inspect the side of the tire.

2

Look for the distinction marked either "P" for passenger tire, or a "T" meaning temporary service. The next numbers are 225/50. These are common to all tires, so dont worry about these numbers.

3

Look after the numbers 225/50 for the number 13, 14, 15 or 16. This is the size of the wheel. It might be any of these.

4

Purchase a tube coordinating it with the letter and the wheel size. Look on the side of the package for the sizes. Some tubes actually are interchangeable, and they will be clearly marked if they are.

The muffler on your Buick Park Avenue reduces the loud noise produced by exhaust system pressure during engine operation. Along with this noise, the exhaust system carries fumes, water and acids produced during engine combustion. This poisonous combination of exhaust by-products eventually corrodes the exhaust pipes and muffler after a period of service. If your muffler has already developed a leak, toxic gases may find their way into the passenger compartment and put the lives of any one on board in danger. Replace the rusted muffler as soon as possible.

Instructions

Remove the Muffler

1

Raise the rear of your Park Avenue using a floor jack and safely support it on 2 jack stands.

2

Place the floor jack underneath the muffler for support.

3

Put on your goggles to keep rust and dirt off your eyes. Cut the exhaust pipe as close as you can to the muffler, right before the welded joint. Use a hacksaw or exhaust pipe cutter.

4

Unfasten the exhaust-hanger nut from its bracket using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and six-point socket to prevent rounding off the nut. If the nut is rusted and seems stuck, spray the nut and stud thread with penetrating oil. Wait a few minutes before attempting to remove the nut.

5

Lift the muffler from underneath the vehicle.

6

Apply a coat of automotive grease to the tail-pipe hanger rod and slide the rubber hanger off the rod.

Install the New Muffler

7

Set the new muffler in place by fitting the muffler neck over the exhaust pipe. Support the muffler using the floor jack.

8

Install the new U-clamp over the exhaust pipe and muffler neck joint. Do not tighten the clamp yet.

9

Apply a coat of automotive grease to the tail-pipe hanger rod and the inner diameter of the rubber hanger. Then slide the rubber hanger over the hanger rod.

10

Screw the muffler-hanger nut to the exhaust hanger bracket and tighten the nut using the ratchet, ratchet extension and six-point socket.

11

Align the muffler to the vehicle and tighten the U-clamp using the ratchet, ratchet extension and six-point socket.

12

Lower the vehicle.

Flywheels are mounted to the rear of the engine on manual shift vehicles -- just before the clutch assembly and transmission -- and are covered by the bellhousing. The primary purpose of the flywheel is to provide momentum for the running engine; it must be properly balanced. The secondary purpose is to mate with the starter motor; this allow the starter motor to crank the engine. Installing the wrong flywheel can cause severe engine damage.

Instructions

1

Measure the diameter of the flywheel with a machinists ruler. According to Jam Performance Transmissions, the flywheel sizes for small-block Chevrolet engines are the 12.75 inch and the 14 inch. The14-inch flywheel is used on the 400 cubic-inch small-block and big-block Chevrolet engines.

2

Count the gear teeth on the perimeter of the flywheel. The 12.75-inch flywheel has 153 teeth; the 14-inch flywheel has 168 teeth. The only small-block Chevrolet engine that uses the 14-inch, 168-tooth flywheel is the 400 cubic-inch.

3

Look for a counterweight. All Chevrolet small-blocks are internally balanced, with the exception of the 400 cubic-inch small-block, the 400 cubic-inch engine-flywheel has a counterweight mounted to the flywheel plate.

4

Determine the flywheel-flange bolt pattern. These are the bolt holes found around the center of the flywheel. According to GM Parts Direct, 1955 to 1985 small-block Chevrolet flywheels have a 3.58-inch bolt pattern, whereas 1986 and later flywheels have a 3-inch bolt pattern. Determine the bolt pattern by measuring the distance between the bolt holes. Some 350 cubic-inch and smaller engine-flywheels have bolt holes to accommodate both patterns

Solid rivets differ from blind rivets common to construction and vehicle repair. Blind rivets have a cylindrical body and a center pin. The blind rivet distorts when you pull the pin with a rivet gun. The distortion binds the rivet in a hole. Solid rivets have a solid body and no pin. Distorting the body of the rivet holds it in place -- similar to a blind rivet. The body of a solid rivet distorts under pressure. Installing a solid rivet correctly creates a strong, watertight connection.

Instructions

1

Measure the diameter of the rivet body with a tape measure.

2

Turn the thumb screw located on the top jaw of a hand rivet compressor. Pull the two handles of the tool apart. Slide the top jaw of the compressor forward to expose the compression die. Pull the die from the chamber. Slide a die matching the size of the rivet into the chamber.

Slide the top jaw backward to catch the die. Tighten the thumb screw. Turn the lower die counterclockwise to remove it from the tool. Turn the correctly sized die clockwise to thread it into the lower jaw of the tool.

3

Select a drill bit from a drill bit set matching the measured diameter of the rivet body. Secure the drill bit into the chuck of a drill motor.

4

Align the pieces of material requiring the rivet.

5

Drill a hole through all pieces of material with the drill bit. Drill slowly to keep heat to a minimum. Excessive heat causes a drill bit to dull.

6

Slide the narrow end of a solid rivet through the drilled hole. Pull the handle of the hand rivet compressor apart to open its jaws. Align the top and bottom dies with the solid rivet. Squeeze the handles of the tool together to set the solid rivet.

The 22R engine has four cylinders and a displacement of 2.4 liters. Toyota manufactured this engine from 1981 to 1995, and it is the standard engine in Toyota Celicas made from 1981 to 1984. The 22R has a single cylinder head for all four cylinders, which forms part of the combustion chamber. The cylinder head gasket for the 22R engine lies between the cylinder head and the engine block.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Disconnect the flange nuts from the exhaust pipe, and detach it from the exhaust manifold. Place a large container under the radiator drains, and drain the coolant from the cooling system into the container for reuse.

2

Disconnect the air cleaner from the carburetor with a socket wrench, including its hoses. Place a shop cloth over the carburetor to keep debris out of the engine. Disconnect any vacuum hoses and fuel lines as required to gain access to the cylinder head.

3

Record the positions for the electrical leads on the spark plugs, and detach them them from the spark plugs. Mark the distributor housing and engine block to ensure you can install the distributor in the correct position later. Disconnect the distributor assembly with a socket wrench. Remove the mounting nuts from the valve cover, and detach the valve cover. Detach the camshaft seals.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the timing chain. Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket with a socket wrench, and detach the distributor drive gear from the camshaft. Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with wire, and disconnect the cover for the timing chain from the cylinder head.

5

Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Insert pry bars under the front and rear of the rocker arm assembly, and pry it off the mounting dowels. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block, and drain the oil from the crankcase to avoid contaminating the oil with coolant.

6

Remove the old gasket from the engine block, and apply liquid sealer to the gasket mounting surface on the block. Place a new cylinder head gasket on the engine block, and mount the cylinder head to the dowels.

7

Turn the camshaft clockwise until its timing pin points straight up. Remove the wire holding the camshaft sprocket in place, and turn the crankshaft until the hole in the camshaft sprocket points straight up. Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with the length of wire. Mount the rocker arm assembly over the dowels on the engine block.

8

Tighten the mounting bolts to the cylinder head in three separate passes with a torque wrench. The final torque on the mounting bolts must be between 52 and 63 foot-pounds. Replace the timing chain cover, and tighten its mounting bolt to between 7 and 11 foot-pounds.

9

Remove the wire holding the camshaft sprocket in place, and mount the sprocket to the dowel on the camshaft. Mount the drive gear for the distributor to the crankshaft, and tighten the mounting bolt for the crankshaft to between 51 and 65 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks, and adjust the valve clearance. Turn the crankshaft 352 degrees clockwise to align the Before Top Dead Center mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankshaft.

11

Install the distributor and spark plugs, using the marks you made in Step Three as a guide. Install the seals for the camshaft, and replace the engine oil. Lubricate the distributor drive gear and valve rockers with clean engine oil. Replace the valve cover, and tighten its mounting bolts to between 8 and 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

12

Connect all electrical wiring and vacuum hoses you removed to access the cylinder heads. Replace the coolant in the cooling system, and connect the air cleaner to the carburetor with a socket wrench. Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold, and tighten the flange bolts to between 25 and 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

13

Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench, and start the engine. Wait for the engine to reach its operating temperature, and adjust the timing, idle speed and fuel mixture.

While some car problems may go undiagnosed for a long period, its likely youll notice an exhaust leak soon after it happens. If your cars exhaust system is leaking, it will noticeably create more clouds of exhaust, noise and smell while idling in your driveway. Minor leaks may close up once the exhaust system warms up and expands, so inspect your car when it is cool to see if the exhaust system is leaking.

Instructions

1

Jack the back end of the vehicle up off the ground, and place jack stands under the vehicles frame for support. Place wheel chocks against the front tires.

2

Inspect the exhaust pipe for cracks or punctures. If you find one, ensure it is the only one.

3

Cut through the exhaust pipe with a hacksaw, roughly an inch on either side of the leak to remove a section of the pipe. Ensure your cuts are perpendicular to the pipe to make inserting the replacement pipe easier.

4

Snip an appropriately sized piece of aluminum sheet metal with tin snips. Youll use this to bend into a replacement pipe that will be slightly longer than the opening you cut with the hacksaw.

5

Wrap the sheet metal around the steel pipe to form a pipe-shaped tube. Ensure the new pipe, called the inner sleeve, is small enough to fit snugly inside the two ends of the original exhaust pipe.

6

Fit one end of the inner sleeve into the original exhaust pipe, and then push the other end of the inner sleeve into the other end of the exhaust pipe.

7

Create another new pipe with the tin snips, aluminum sheet metal and rolling device. This time, make the new pipe slightly larger than the vehicles exhaust pipe, as it will serve as the outer sleeve.

8

Place the outer sleeve over the inner sleeve, and secure it an inch from either end to the vehicles exhaust pipe with exhaust clamps.

9

Wrap several layers of muffler tape around both ends of the outer sleeve, between the exhaust clamps and the vehicles exhaust pipe. The tape will ensure no exhaust is able to leak out, as well as eliminate any vibration noises associated with your work.

10

Remove the wheel chocks and jack stand, then lower the vehicle back to the ground.

The Chrysler Town & Country is a family minivan manufactured by Chrysler since 1990. It has a 6-cylinder engine with multi-port fuel injection that requires the fuel to be pressurized to about 49 pounds per square inch. The fuel pump module in the 1998 Chrysler Town & Country consists of a fuel pump and pressure regulator located in the fuel tank. You must remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump in this vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench to prevent sparking while you work on the vehicle. Loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail. Place one end of hose No. C-4799-1 into a gasoline container, and wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure port. Attach the other end of the hose to the fuel pressure port to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure port and replace the cap.

2

Place a siphon hose into the fuel tank and drain the fuel tank into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank and fuel pump module. Slide the electrical connector for the fuel pump module to the unlock position. Push the retainer down and detach the electrical connector from the fuel pump module. Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack and remove the bolts for the mounting straps on the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank completely and remove it from the vehicle.

3

Clean the top of the fuel tank with a shop towel to prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank. Turn the lock nut for the fuel pump module counterclockwise with tool No. 6856 and detach the lock nut from the fuel pump module.

4

Lift the fuel pump module out of the fuel tank. Remove and discard the O-ring from the fuel tank. Clean the area around the opening in the fuel tank, and install a new O-ring on the fuel tank.

5

Install the locking ring for the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise and tighten it to 43 ft-lbs. with tool No. 6856. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal. Fill the fuel tank with fuel and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the system and check the fuel system for leaks.

The first generation (1968-69) Toyota Corolla was the manufactures smallest vehicle ever released in the United States at that time. The second generation Corolla became the second-best selling car in the world, as stated by Edmunds. As of December 2010, the Corolla is in its tenth generation. The eighth and tenth generation featured identical exhaust system designs, and installing an exhaust system for the 2001 to 2003 Toyota Corolla S 1.8-liter I-4 requires a vehicle lift, a socket wrench set, wrench set and saw with a blade capable of cutting metal.

Instructions

Uninstalling Stock Exhaust

1

Lift the Corolla off the ground using a hydraulic lift or wheel jack and jack stands. Leave enough room underneath the vehicle to work on the exhaust system components efficiently.

2

Unbolt the muffler assembly from the swivel bolt flange located on the opposite end of the muffler from the tailpipe using the socket and wrench set. There will be two flange nuts mating the front pipe and muffler assembly piping together.

3

Lift the muffler assembly off the hanger hooks and pull it out from its mounted position.

4

Place the muffler assembly and all the corresponding hardware and insulators off to the side. Do not lose any of these components because they may be used during the exhaust replacement installation.

5

Unbolt the chassis brace, located underneath the front pipe. The front pipe is located after the resonator assembly. Remove the front pipe and place it off to the side along with all its hardware.

6

Remove the original resonator assembly if your new exhaust system includes a replacement resonator. In this case, cut the original resonator piping one to three inches in front of the weld melding the resonator assembly to the exhaust piping leading towards the engine.

7

Prepare to install the new exhaust.

Installing New Exhaust

8

Install the front resonator assembly using the hardware and clamps provided by the new exhaust system after slipping it over the recently cut original piping. Install the new exhaust components from the front of the vehicle towards the rear.

9

Bolt the exhaust hangers in place starting with those that hold the resonator assembly.

10

Install the front pipe to the resonator assembly using the provided or stock hardware using the socket and wrench set. Reconnect the chassis brace. If applicable connect the front pipe to the necessary hangers.

11

Mount the muffler assembly. First connect and bolt the swivel bolt flange mentioned above using the two flange nuts.

12

Hang the muffler assembly on the hangers and tighten the remaining hardware.

13

Adjust the newly installed Corolla exhaust system as needed. Tighten hardware and fasteners from the front of the vehicle to the rear.

14

Lower vehicle back onto the ground.

In 1953, Ford slightly redesigned its F-series pickups and in the process revamped the names of the F-series trucks; the F-1, F-2 and F-3 became the F-100, F-250 and F-350, respectively. The 2006 Ford F-250 had three engines available, but it came standard with a 300-horsepower, 5.4-liter V-8 engine. This engine, as with all modern automotive engines in the U.S., came fitted with a catalytic converter, which converts harmful gases in the exhaust to harmless ones. Replacing the catalytic converter on the base level 2006 F-250 is a straightforward task

Instructions

Removal

1

Allow the vehicle to sit until the engine is cool to the touch, then allow it to sit for an additional hour to allow the catalytic converter to cool, as the converter typically is significantly hotter than the rest of the exhaust and retains heat more effectively.

2

Kick wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and raise the front of the F-250 with a floor jack. Slide jack stands under the frame rails and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Crawl under the middle of the truck until you have a clear view of the catalytic converter.

4

Remove the four catalytic converter-to-Y-pipe nuts, using a ratchet and socket. If the nuts are seized, spray penetrating oil onto them and wait for the amount of time the oils instructions prescribe.

5

Loosen the clamp securing the intermediate pipe to the catalytic converter pipe using a ratchet and socket.

6

Trace the wiring for the catalyst monitor, the oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter, upward until you reach where its harness connects to the F-250s harness. Unplug the sensors harness from the F-250s harness.

7

Press the rubber catalytic converter hanger from the catalytic converters bracket. Press the converter rearward until the converter-to-Y-pipe studs are free from the Y-pipe, and lower the front part of the catalytic converter. Slide the catalytic converters pipe from the intermediate pipe and remove the converter from the truck.

8

Remove the catalyst monitor, the oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

Installation

9

Apply a thin coating of an anti-seize compound to the catalyst monitors threads and hand-tighten the monitor into the new catalytic converter. Tighten the catalyst monitor to 34 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

10

Scrub the mating surface on the Y-pipe with a wire brush. Guide a new catalytic converter-to-Y-pipe gasket onto the mating surface on the catalytic converter. Clean the mating surface on the inside of the intermediate pipe with emery cloth.

11

Lift the catalytic converter into place and press its bracket through the hole in the converters rubber hanger. Guide the convertor-to-Y-pipe studs through the bolt holes in the Y-pipe. Hand-tighten the four converter-to-Y-pipe nuts onto the studs.

12

Guide the rearmost pipe on the catalytic converter into the intermediate pipe. Move the intermediate pipe-to-catalytic converter pipe clamp so its within 0.15 inches of the end of the intermediate pipe and the bolt is at a 90-degree angle relative to the slots cut in the end of the pipe.

13

Tighten the convertor-to-Y-pipe nuts to 30 foot-pounds using a ratchet and socket, and tighten the intermediate pipe-to-catalytic converter pipe clamp to 41 foot-pounds.

The Evolution engine was a significant upgrade over the preceding Shovelhead power plants. Part of the redesign was the replacement of the spade-shaped Shovelhead rocker covers with rocker covers that looked like a stack of blocks. Harley cheerfully nicknamed its new engine the Blockhead. Unfortunately, the Blockheads rocker covers leaked. The covers were redesigned four times. The earliest rocker box gaskets, and the worst, were made of cork -- they were nicknamed "glue and screws." Later generations of these gaskets were made of rubber. Although you can replace these gaskets without pulling off the gas tank, experienced mechanics usually do so.

Instructions

1

Park your Harley in a well-ventilated area. Turn the petcock to off. Allow the engine to cool down completely.

2

Loosen the fender tab bolt on the back of the seat with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt and washer. Pull the back of the seat up and back to remove it.

3

Disconnect the negative battery cable from its terminal with a box wrench.

4

Remove the console bracket bolt or bolts. Use a box wrench on consoles attached to the bracket with a single acorn bolt. Use an Allen wrench on consoles attached to the bracket with two or three Allen bolts.

5

Loosen the worm clamp that connects the fuel line to the petcock with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the fuel line from the petcock.

6

Drain your fuel tank through your petcock into a large gasoline storage can. If you have a split gas tank, you must also disconnect the crossover hose and the fuel venting hoses on the bottom of the tanks.

7

Remove the front and rear mounting bolts, washers and nuts, using a box wrench on the nuts and a socket wrench on the bolt heads.

8

Unplug the fuel gauge connector under the gas tank on later Evolution models.

9

Lift the tank straight up and off the motorcycle and set it aside.

10

Remove the Allen bolts that fasten the rocker cover to the engine. Remove the cover. Work on one rocker cover at a time, beginning with the front cover.

11

Remove the metal gasket, which is called an inner rocker cover or a D-ring. Remove the old gasket. Some gaskets will need to be scraped off.

12

Examine the used gasket and rocker housing. Gaskets for housings with only a partial shelf gasket use adhesive. Housings with a shelf to fully support the gasket do not need adhesive.

13

Position the gasket on the rocker arm assembly using adhesive if needed. Replace the thin metal inner rocker cover and the rocker cover.

14

Replace and tighten the rocker cover bolts according to the specifications in the shop manual for your Evolution. Generally, these bolts are tightened to about 10 foot-pounds of torque.

15

Replace the gas tank and reattach the pigtail connection for the fuel gauge. Reconnect the fuel line to the petcock using a worm clamp and flat-head screwdriver.

16

Reattach the console to the console bracket. Refill the gas tank. Reconnect the battery cable and replace the seat.

A good way to handle problems with your Camry exhaust system is to tackle the culprit. Exhaust system difficulties could develop from several causes, so inspect devices from the engine to the tailpipe. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Toyota Camry by recognizing warning signs from exhaust system components. Work with a mechanic on the steps below that relate to most model years.

Instructions

1

Check the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Leaks usually occur where these devices connect because of heat expansion and contraction. Shear stress affects the exhaust manifold gasket every time you crank up your Camry, drive it or turn it off. Leaks can result as time passes.

2

Listen for hissing or popping sounds occurring intermittently when the engine runs. See if you spot paint discolorations or burns around the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to inspect your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Inspect the area that joins the head pipe and exhaust manifold. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe and exhaust manifold meet. Look for discoloration from hot gases that escaped this area. This pertains to the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines.

4

See if the exhaust pipes suffer wear. Take large pliers and put pressure on the pipes. Replace all pipes that break, tear or give way to pressure. Keep the engine on while you test the system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with a live engine.

5

Determine if sounds come from exhaust areas around your muffler. Buzzing sounds that increase with acceleration for example, are a sign of exhaust system problems. A whistle or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could come from system restrictions. Ask a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings indicate blockage.

Your 2002 Buick Century, like most modern cars, has a computer system known as the On-Board Diagnostic to identify malfunctions. It also keeps track of the regular maintenance needs of the vehicle. When you see the SRS light illuminate on the instrument panel, this is to alert you to a malfunction with the Supplemental Restraint System or airbag system. Do not drive the vehicle; have it looked at by a professional mechanic as soon as possible. Once the Buick has been repaired, you or your mechanic will need to reset the airbag light. To do this, you need an OBD II scan tool.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position, but dont crank the engine.

2

Locate the diagnostic port under the steering column and plug the OBD II scan tools connector into this port. Wait while the scan tool powers on. Some scan tools need to be manually turned on. If so, look for the "on/off" switch and turn it on.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command on the scan tool and then "Clear Codes." Wait while the scan tool clears the SRS code. The scan tool will either return to the main menu or display the word "OK."

4

Unplug the scan tool and start the engine. Verify that the SRS light has shut off of the instrument cluster. If so, the vehicle is safe to drive.

Losing the keys to your truck is not the best way to begin your day. Once you complete the search for your F-150 keys, you finally realize it is time to make some phone calls to see about obtaining a new set of car keys. Fortunately, your 1997 Ford F-150 is not equipped with a smart key, so you can call any professional locksmith or Ford dealership to replace your truck key.

Instructions

1

Get the vehicle identification number (VIN) from your truck. It is located on your purchase paperwork, your windshield and on your insurance and title paperwork.

2

Call your local Ford dealership, or a professional locksmith, in your area to schedule an appointment to have new keys made.

3

Provide the key maker with your VIN. The digits of your VIN tell the key maker what type of key you need and how to cut the key to fit your truck locks.

4

Pay for the services rendered, as well as your new keys.

Removing the visor support clip in your Dodge Ram may be necessary if the clip is cracked or broken and is not longer supporting the sun visor as intended. The visor clips into the hook on the clamp, holding the inboard end of the visor up against the headliner while still allowing it to pivot up and down to block the sun while driving. If you need a new clip, you can contact any Dodge dealer parts department to order the correct part in a color that matches your interior.

Instructions

1

Fold the sun visor down and pull it back, removing it from the support clip. You can find the visor above the windshield inside the passengers compartment of your Dodge.

2

Rotate the sun visor out of the way, moving it to the left or right of the truck. Locate the seam at the top edge of the support clip and insert a trim stick between the clip and the headliner.

3

Pry the clip away from the headliner. Remove the hook from the truck.

No fuel at your carburetor can be caused by many things. It could be a simple issue like a fuel filter plugged so tight that no fuel can pass through. Another logical cause could be the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is electric, the 12-volt power may be shorted. A hole in the fuel line on the tank side could also cause the fuel pump to suck air instead of fuel from the fuel tank. There may not even be signs of leaking, since a fuel line leak on the tank side would have to be above the fuel level for leakage to show.

Instructions

1

Remove and check all fuel filters located in the fuel line and in the carburetor. Replace any and all filters that can not be confirmed good or have not been changed recently.

2

Inspect the fuel lines for leaks or kinks that might interfere with fuel flow.

3

Tap the top of the carburetor lightly to free a stuck needle valve or float that may be shutting off fuel to the carburetor float bowl.

4

Check the fuse marked fuel pump in the fuse box for any electric fuel pump equipped vehicles.

5

Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the Shrader valve if the vehicle has an electric fuel pump. Turn on the key and monitor the fuel pressure, it should be around 60-psi. If equipped with a mechanical fuel pump, remove the fuel line to the carburetor and connect a fuel gauge to the fuel pump. This should yield a low pressure, under 20-psi when the engine is cranked over.

6

Check the mechanical fuel pump by placing a fuel line into a gas can and attach the other end to the intake of the fuel pump. Crank the engine and check for fuel at the carburetor. The engine may start with fuel from a remote source such as a fuel can. If the pump draws fuel from the can and not the tank the tank screen must be inspected and or replaced. This would require removing the gas tank.

Some roads are paved with good intentions, others with broken dreams; still others are paved with broken down cars, formerly driven by people with good intentions. Lubricating spark plug threads is one of those things that seems like a good idea at the time, until you realize all the reasons that you shouldnt do it.

Spark Plug Basics

A spark plug is, in essence, the end and the weakest link in a long circuit. The electrons flowing across the gap from the spark plug tip to the ground strap start at the battery. Electrons flow from the battery, and through the ignition coil where they induce a high-voltage/low-amperage in a metal core. The high-voltage electricity flows through that core and into the plug wire -- or spark plug, if its direct ignition -- where it flows down the plugs central, metal core. From there, the electrons jump the gap in the form of a spark to the ground strap, grounded to the battery via the cylinder head and ground strap.

A Case for Lube

Anti-seize lubricants are usually some mixture of soft metals with high lubricity -- copper and aluminum, typically. They also generally contain some amount of graphite, which acts as a "dry" lubricant and helps to keep bolt threads from sticking to the threads of a bolt hole. Antiseize lubricants do their best work on bolts in high-temperature, mixed-media applications -- steel bolts into aluminum heads, chrome-moly exhaust manifold bolts into iron heads and so on. Anti-seize lubes can go a long way toward the prevention of stuck bolts, stripped threads, stripped bolt heads and broken spark plugs.

Electrical Conductivity

Contrary to popular belief, most anti-seize lubricants are fairly good conductors of electricity -- they just need to get hot to do it. Aluminum and copper are two of the best electrical conductors on Earth, and graphite is a fine conductor as well. But, unlike most materials, this crystalline form of coal has whats called a "negative coefficient of resistance," meaning that it works better when its hot. Very hot -- about 900 degrees Fahrenheit. So your ignition system wont work very well at startup or unless the engine runs consistently at very high temperatures. Thats why its often proscribed for use in aircraft engines, which require regular maintenance and run at high loads for hours at a time.

Galled Threads

Not all antiseize compounds contain graphite; some specialized compounds designed for use with electrical components contain nothing but copper, aluminum, nickel and other conductive elements. But that still does change the fact that antiseize lubricants are still lubricants, and that theyll reduce required torque by about 20 percent. Which means that, when you use an antiseize lube and torque the plugs to the factory setting, youre actually over-torquing by about 20 percent. When dealing with aluminum heads, an extra 20 percent is easily enough to rip the threads right out of your head, thus creating the very problem you were trying to avoid.

Fuel tanks are sealed environments with measures in place to prevent debris and sediment from entering an engine. An inline fuel filter catches and cleans contaminants directly from your fuel as it enters the tank. Most manufacturers do not prescribe a set interval for changing the fuel filter, but a good rule of thumb is to change the fuel filter whenever you perform any maintenance on the fuel lines or every 25,000 to 50,000 miles. The process takes around 15 minutes to complete properly.

Instructions

1

Relieve the pressure on the gas lines. Most fuel-injected vehicles have a vehicle-specific process for relieving pressure on the fuel lines. You typically release a valve near the air cleaner or use a specialized tool to force the fuel back into the gas tank. Proceed to Step 2 if you are unsure of your vehicles specific process.

2

Place hose clamps on the line before and after a joint in the fuel line. Disconnect the joint and angle both ends of the flexible line into the opening on a gas can. Release the clamps and allow the pressure to subside in the line. Reconnect the joint.

3

Disconnect the push fittings on the fuel lines connecting to the fuel filter. The connections will vary by vehicle, but most use a push connect tab that you remove before pulling the line off of the filter. Some use a garter spring that is held in place with a spring lock coupling. Open the coupling and pull the two connections apart.

4

Unbolt the fuel filter if it is hard-mounted to the frame. Install the new fuel filter by reversing the removal process.

5

Pressurize the lines. Turn the key to on, and slowly press the gas pedal to the floor three times. Wait a few seconds, and start the vehicle. Monitor the new fuel filter for leaks. Turn off the engine and correct any fittings that were not connected properly with the installation should you notice a leak.

Tools used for polishing automotive finishes can be either handheld or used with an orbital buffer. All polishing tools use a variety of different waxes and polishing compounds that smooth the painted surface of a car and buff away scratches and oxidation left behind after a vehicle has been washed. Orbital buffers are best used on particularly difficult-to-clean spots or on large areas where it is too time consuming to use a handheld wax applicator.

Orbital Buffers

Orbital buffers are used along with a wool or foam pad to apply polishing compound to a vehicles surface. Once the polishing compound has been applied from its container, the orbital buffer speed can be selected on a rotary dial near the handle. The foam or wool pad is then placed onto the spot where the polishing compound was placed and the trigger of the orbital buffer pulled. Moving the buffer from side to side distributes the polishing compound over a wider area, allowing the user to polish a larger area at one time.

Foam and Wool Buffing Pads

Foam and wool buffing pads are used with orbital buffers to produce the final finish on a vehicle being polished. Wool pads have a deep scouring action that heats up the paint of the car. These pads are best used after a car has been painted and then wet sanded to remove the final sanding scratches left by the sandpaper. Foam pads, while being less resilient than wool pads, do not heat up as much, and so are well-suited to lighter buffing or polishing jobs, such as immediately following a thorough cleaning of a car.

Wax Applicators

Wax applicators are a round or square-shaped sponge that has a soft, flexible feel. These applicators are used with liquid or solid wax and can be rinsed out using a garden hose when they become saturated with wax. Wax applicators should not be used to polish vehicle paint since they tend to draw the wax into their pores, preventing the wax from drying.

Polishing Cloths

Polishing cloths for automotive polishing are the same material as washable dusting cloths used in your home. They have a slightly tacky texture, but they do not stick when rubbed against a smooth surface. These cloths are used after a coat of wax has been allowed to dry on the surface of a vehicle to remove the dried wax. Rather than simply pushing the wax off of the surface, they pull the wax into the fibers of the cloth. The cloth is then snapped in the air to release built-up wax dust. These cloths can be cleaned and reused multiple times.

Trucks generally get more beat up that some other vehicles because they are used to haul things around such as tools, supplies, furniture and more. If you arent careful, the paint on your truck can get scratched up in a short amount of time. Removing the scratches can be a somewhat involved process, particularly if they are large or deep. Fixing the scratches requires several steps as well as a bit of elbow grease.

Instructions

1

Clean the scratched area with soap and water to remove any grit, dust or paint flakes. Rinse and dry the area off with a clean, soft rag.

2

Examine the scratched area to determine the extent of the damage. The amount of repair needed depends on this. If you still see color, then the scratch isnt that bad. It is either just damage to the clear coat or in the paint, but hasnt gone down to the primer or car body. If there is no color, then then you are, at minimum, into the primer. If you only have surface scratches, you can skip straight to Step 5.

3

Apply touch-up paint that closely matches your trucks paint to the scratched area if the scratch went below the surface. Allow the paint to set and dry for a day before proceeding.

4

Sand out deep scratches that you had to fill in with touch-up paint. Use an ultra-fine sandpaper such as a 2,000-grit. Sand down until the touched-up area is smooth and level with the surrounding paint. If the scratch did not penetrate below the color, then you will still need to sand, but do so carefully to avoid going below the paint.

5

Apply a buffing compound to the area. Rub in a circular motion until the surface scratches or sanded scratches are gone. Continue rubbing, but change to a side-to-side motion until the circles are gone. Switch to a clean cloth to buff out residue.

Plumbing in a travel trailer is similar to that of a home or office building in that youre removing the old parts and replacing them with new ones. The hot and cold water pipes in your travel trailer can be replaced with standard PEX plumbing pipe, while drain pipes can be standard PVC piping. Repairs in travel trailers are common due to movement while traveling as well as seasonal damage and wear and tear over time.

Instructions

1

Turn off the water supply to your travel trailer and completely drain the fresh water tank, the black water tank and the grey water tank. Measure the size of the pipes youre replacing and purchase the materials at your local home improvement store. Bring along the old parts if you want to be 100 percent sure of purchasing the correct sizes. Purchase a little extra material to allow for mistakes or areas you may not have previously noticed.

2

Disconnect any fittings with the adjustable wrench and the pipe wrench. Attach the pipe wrench to the section of pipe going into any fittings, and adjust the adjustable wrench to fit the size of the nut on the fitting. Apply pressure on the wrenches in opposite directions to disconnect. Cut away any sections of pipe that need to be replaced with the reciprocating saw.

3

Measure the replacement piece of pipe and cut it with the reciprocating saw. Clean the inside and outside of the replacement pipe and the old section of pipe you will be connecting to with the pipe primer/cleaner. Remove excess burrs from cutting the pipe with the saw. Apply pipe glue to both the male and female ends of any pipe fittings or areas where the pipe will be joined together and slide the new pipe into place. Hold it in place for several minutes until the glue begins to set. With fittings, simply tighten them in place after the glue has been applied.

Commonly used in pneumatic systems, pneumatic oil works specifically in air-powered tools and applications due to its nature of being easily made airborne. As a result, the oil can work as a lubricant in air-pressured valve and cylinder setups, air compressor motors, and similar mechanical assemblies.

How it is Used

Pneumatic oil works as a lubrication additive in a pneumatic tool or tool system. Because the clearances inside such tools are so tight and are activated by air pressure, conventional lubrication such as grease does not work. Instead, pneumatic oil is used due to an ability to break it down to a molecular level and make it airborne. This low viscosity benefit allows the oil to then move along with the pressured air between the tool parts and lubricate them properly, reducing friction between the parts. The oil supply in the tool can either be handled through a reservoir with an automated distribution pump or by manually applying drops in the tool parts. Any extra oil that travels with the air is ejected from the tool or machinery while in use.

No Compatibility with Normal Oil Needs

Pneumatic oil does not work very well in normal lubrication applications such as automotive lubrication, mechanical grease, or general machinery applications. The same benefit that allows pneumatic oil to work in air compressed systems (viscosity) also causes it to break down too easily under any kind of mechanical wear or temperature. As a result, pneumatic oil should never be used as an grease or oil substitute in heavy machinery or vehicles.

Care in Use

Due to the atomizing nature of pneumatic oil, it can cause irritation on bare skin (typically the hands working with a pneumatic tool repeatedly). The oil can enter skin pores and cause irritation. The best way to avoid this problem is to wear gloves when handling the tools, wash hands regularly with soap, change out gloves and work aprons regularly, and take showers at lunch breaks and after work. These steps remove a significant amount of pneumatic oil residual from exposed skin.

Types of Tool Applications

Pneumatic oil typically comes in one grade and can be applied in a variety of air-driven tools. This includes vegetation chippers, reciprocating equipment, automotive mechanic tools such as tire lugnut drills and tire inflation units, most kinds of air motors, and similar machines. The product can even be used in brewery applications for bottling and canning.

The GM Duramax 6600 is an eight-cylinder diesel engine based upon the design efforts from General Motors and Isuzu Motors. Key design implementations include four valves per cylinder, direct injection and lightweight aluminum heads. The Duramax 6600 became an engine option for the "HD" line of Chevrolet and GMC branded trucks beginning in the 2001 model year. Each cylinder for the Duramax 6600 has a designated number for identification purposes. Finding a specific cylinder will help you in regard to performing certain repairs or diagnostic tasks.

Instructions

1

Place the vehicles transmission in the "Park" position (for automatic transmissions), and engage the parking brake. Shut off the vehicles engine before performing repairs or checking underneath the hood.

2

Open the vehicles hood, and allow the engine to cool thoroughly.

3

Examine the top end of the engine, and locate the fuel injector lines, positioned above each cylinder. The passenger- and driver-side cylinder heads each contain four fuel injectors. Counting from the front of the engine to the back, cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 reside on the passenger-side cylinder head, while the driver side contains cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8.

There are several reasons why your car audio amplifier would stop working. Essentially, the majority of the problems are with the amplifier failing to turn on and off. Due to the amount of wires associated with an in-car amp, it can be a trial-and-error process of trying to identify and repair the problem with your amplifier.

Instructions

1

Locate the red power wire on the left side of the amplifier and connect one end of the voltmeter to it. If the amplifier is working and recognizes a full connection, it will power on. If it doesnt power on, then the problem lies with the wiring of the amplifier.

2

Find the black wire at the back of the amplifier labeled "Ground." This wire should be connected to a piece of exposed material, which will create the full circuit that the amplifier needs to work. Apply some electrical tape to the end of the wire and stick to a piece of exposed metal if the wire isnt connected.

3

Find the fuse in the fuse terminal on the left of the engine. Unplug the white fuse and replace it with a new one. If the fuse is blown then no power is being fed to the amplifier or in-car audio.

4

Apply electrical tape to each wire coming out of the back of the amplifier. Each wire coming out of the amplifier is partially exposed to allow connections to the fuse terminal. However, it can also cause electrical shorts. Applying electrical tape will stop this. The connection to the fuse terminal wont be affected.

The engine spark plug, whether used in automotive applications or commercial and industrial use, serves a straightforward purpose. It has the job of sealing off the combustion chamber while generating a high voltage to spark an explosion of atomized fuel and air. Spark plugs come in many heat ranges, sizes and construction materials, which have reference numbers. Two Champion spark plugs, such as the RN9Y and the RN9YC, have similar designs except for an additional identification number.

Spark Plug Description, Letter "R"

The RN9Y Champion spark plug has four reference numbers that describe its specific application. The first letter, "R," describes the special suppressor shielding construction of the plug, which identifies it as a resistor-type plug, used for suppressing radio and engine-noise static. The RN9YC spark plug is no different in this respect.

Letter "N"

The "N" describes the physical construction of the outer shell. In this case, the outer shell has a 14 mm thread size, a 3/4-inch reach, or depth into the combustion chamber and a 13/16-inch hex bolt design. The RN9YC spark plug is the same as the RN9Y in this aspect.

Numeral "9"

Typically, Champion spark plugs that have numeral designations between 1 and 25 have application use in automotive and small engines only. The number "9" falls within this range, excluding it from use in larger commercial and industrial engines. The RN9Y and RN9YC spark plugs are identical in this respect.

Letter "Y"

In a Champion spark plug, the letter "Y" on the RN9Y spark plug refers to the firing-end design of the spark plug electrode. In this case, the "Y" indicates that this spark plug uses a standard projected core nose, one of the most common configurations. Electrode length determines the heat range, and in some cases, the depth of the plug inside the combustion chamber. The "Y" on the RN9YC spark plug means the same thing.

Letter "C"

The extra "C" for the RN9YC spark plug identifies it as a copper-core plug, which makes the core construction material different from the RN9Y spark plug. The electrode center contains an extruded copper core that promotes better heat-range distribution. This allows for longer plug life. The copper electrode element also resists corrosion and contamination better than the standard design. The RN9YC spark plugs have useful applications when used on HEI (high energy ignition) systems that require better quality and longer plug life.

The tenth generation of the Chrysler New Yorker includes the 1988 through the 1993 model years, and has little resemblance to the previous generation of the New Yorker. The standard engine for the 1989 Chrysler New Yorker is a six-cylinder, 3.0-liter engine made by Mitsubishi. This engine uses a timing belt to coordinate the movement of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt wears out at regular intervals, and its replacement is a part of routine maintenance.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cover for the front rocker arm with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft damper with the corresponding mark on the engine. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by a full turn if any of the valve springs are still compressed.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and disconnect the outer timing belt covers from the engine. Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to relieve the pressure on the timing belt and remove the timing belt. Move the tensioner away from the engine as far as possible and tighten the bolt on the tensioner.

3

Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with Spanner tool MB990775. Remove the bolt and washer from the sprocket with a socket wrench. Align the groove on the camshaft sprocket with the groove on the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the sprocket to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove Spanner tool MB990775 from the sprocket.

4

Turn both camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the alternator bracket and inner timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump.

5

Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket while maintaining tension on the front side of the timing belt. Place the timing belt over the front camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket and inside the belt tensioner, in that order. Keep tension on the timing belt as you install it, except for the portion on the timing belt adjuster.

6

Turn the front camshaft counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt. Ensure that the timing mark aligns once again, and connect the flange for the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench.

7

Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner, causing the tensioner spring to apply tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise until its timing marks aligns once again. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Install the outer timing belt covers and the rocker arm cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal and test the vehicle for proper operation.

The Toyota Camry is a series of compact and mid-size cars in production since 1982. The 1987 model is a second generation Camry, which typically has a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt on a 1987 Toyota Camry has a limited lifetime and should last at least 60,000 miles before needing replacement.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench and discard their gaskets. Remove the thru-bolt and the mounting insulator on the right side of the engine. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the right engine-mounting bracket and remove the bracket.

2

Remove the timing belt guide and timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the No. 1 and No. 2 idler pulleys and remove the pulleys. Detach the timing pulley for the crankshaft, using a pair of pry tools if necessary. Disconnect the retaining nut for the oil pump pulley and remove the oil pump pulley.

3

Slide the oil pump pulley onto its shaft and tighten the retaining nut to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Align the set key on the crankshaft-timing pulley with the corresponding groove on the pulley shaft, and slide the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt to 80 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

4

Connect the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten its retaining bolt to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the No. 1 idler pulley, loosely fasten its retaining bolt and connect the tension spring. Pull the No. 1 idler pulley as far to the left as it will go and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench to hold it in place temporarily.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up. Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft-timing pulley, oil pump pulley, No. 2 idler pulley and water pump pulley.

6

Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete turns clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up once again. Adjust the No. 1 timing pulley as needed to keep it aligned with its timing mark. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the bracket for the right engine mount. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. and tighten the thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the insulator for the right engine mount and tighten the insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. Install the timing belt cover with new gaskets and tighten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

The fuel system pressurizes fuel from the fuel tank to the engine. Fuel-injection systems meter the fuel injected for the cylinders by controlling the length of time the injectors are open. To inject the correct amount of fuel, the pressure must be constant. The fuel pump contains a check valve to ensure a rapid start next time the vehicle is started by maintaining fuel pressure throughout the system. Depressurize the fuel system to prevent spraying highly flammable gasoline before replacing fuel system components such as a fuel pump.

Instructions

Stall Method

1

Place the vehicle in park. Set the parking brake to prevent vehicle movement. Open the hood.

2

Open the gas filler door. Remove the gas cap to relieve fuel vapor pressure from the fuel tank.

3

Locate the fuel pump fuse. Generally, the fuel pump fuse is located in the underhood electrical distribution center near the battery. Remove the plastic cover protecting the distribution center. The fuse location should be labeled on a diagram on the plastic cover.

4

Start the vehicle and allow the engine to idle. Remove the fuel pump fuse. The engine will run normally for several seconds. The engine will start to hesitate and misfire. Allow the engine to stall.

5

Turn the ignition key off. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a metric wrench to prevent accidental re-pressurization of the fuel system.

Fuel Gauge and Test Port Method

6

Park the vehicle. Engage the parking brake to prevent accidental vehicle movement. Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a metric wrench. Open the fuel filler door. Open the gas cap to relieve pressure inside the gas tank.

7

Locate the fuel pressure test port. The test port has a screw on protective dust cap and looks almost exactly like a tire valve stem. Remove the protective dust cap by hand.

8

Place a rag around the fuel test port to catch fuel leakage. Screw the fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel pressure test port.

9

Place the end of the clear plastic line of the fuel pressure gauge into a gas can. Depress the pressure relief button on the fuel gauge to bleed the fuel system pressure into the gas can. Release the valve. The fuel pressure gauge needle should register zero.

10

Remove the fuel pressure gauge and reinstall the dust cap on the fuel pressure test port.

Exhaust systems have many places where weakness can occur over time. Most exhaust systems take between five and seven years before deterioration begins to cause problems. Have the exhaust system checked at the first sign of noise to prevent costly repairs.

Rust

Rust accumulates in different places within an exhaust system for several reasons. Short trips leave condensation that settles inside the muffler, and because it doesnt have time to get hot enough to evaporate it, rust begins to form.

Donut Gasket

Donut gaskets allow for movement at the end of the exhaust pipe where it connects to the manifold on the engine. Over time, it wears down, causing the movement to increase that results in a rattling sound.

Heat Shields

Car manufacturers weld heat shields in key areas on the exhaust system to prevent heat transfer to the floor of the vehicle. Spot welds that come loose cause the shield to rattle or vibrate. Insert a pry bar between the shield and the exhaust system and gently press against the shield. If it moves, new welds can fix the problem.

The hard body Nissan pickups were built between 1986 and 1997. The 1995 Nissan Pickup comes equipped with two separate belts that operate all of the engine accessories. The first belt is a serpentine belt and the second belt is a v-belt. These belts operate the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioner compressor and the cooling fan at the same time. Over time the serpentine belt and the v-belt will fray and crack. Change the belt as soon as the fraying or cracking is evident to prevent the belts from breaking.

Instructions

Replacing the Serpentine Belt

1

Open the hood and make note of the serpentine belt routing diagram. This diagram holds the instructions for how the serpentine belt is routed around each pulley. Use this diagram to properly route the new belt around the pulleys.

2

locate the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The serpentine belt is a single belt with ribs on the inside of the belt that travel inside of the pulleys. The serpentine belt is tightened by a spring loaded tensioner on the front left hand side of the engine. Use the bolt head that secures the pulley to the bottom of the tensioner to relieve the tension from the belt.

3

Position a metric socket and a breaker bar onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Turn the breaker bar counter-clockwise to release the tension from the belt. Slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and release the breaker bar.

4

Pull the serpentine belt out of the other accessory pulleys and out of the engine bay. Route the new serpentine belt around the same pulleys as described by the belt routing diagram. Put the breaker bar and socket back onto the tensioner pulley bolt. Rotate the breaker bar counter-clockwise and slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley. Release the breaker bar and remove it from the engine bay.

Replacing the V-Belt

5

Locate the v-belt that is routed around the remaining accessory pulleys. The v-belt is tightened by an adjustment bracket on top of the alternator. Loosen the bolt in the middle of the adjustment bracket with a ratchet and a metric socket.

6

Loosen the top alternator mounting bolt with the ratchet and socket.

7

Turn the adjustment bolt at the end of the adjustment bracket counter-clockwise until the belt is loose. Pull the belt out of the accessory pulleys and out of the engine bay.

8

Route the new v-belt around the accessory pulleys. Tighten the belt by turning the adjustment bolt clockwise with the ratchet and socket. Check the tension of the belt by pushing inward on the belt with your hand. The belt should have no more than a half-inch of slack. Adjust the belt as needed to get a half-inch of tension in the belt. Tighten the bolt in the middle of the adjustment bracket and the top alternator mounting bolt with the ratchet and socket.

9

Crank the engine for fifteen to twenty seconds. Turn the engine off and inspect the belts. Make sure that the serpentine belt is properly inside of each pulley. Make sure that the v-belt is inside of each pulley and also recheck the tension of the v-belt with your hand. Close the hood.

Ford rear ends, or differentials, were manufactured by either the Dana Corporation or Ford. Differentials take the power from the rear axle and transfer it to the rear wheels by way of special gears. Identifying a differential hinges the ability to distinguish the two primary rear-end types---the 8- or 9-inch rear end---denoting ring-gear size. The differential installed depends on the intended application; standard passenger or high-performance trucks tend to have a wider range of rear-end variety than passenger cars. The identification process begins with locating the factory rear-end tag and then using visual methods.

Instructions

1

Locate the axle ID tag on the rear-end housing---usually a sheet-metal tag bolted to the housing, although some vehicles had a paper tag, which may be missing. The metal tag has four different sets of numbers, each grouped in the four corners of the tag. The most important is the model, or service code, found in the upper-left corner. Combine all of the codes, to identify ring-gear size, gear ratio, date and location of manufacture.

2

Decode the service number by matching it to an axle service code chart, similar to those found on WoodyG.com and Drivetrain. The code chart tells the gear ratio and ring-gear size, denoting an 8- or 9-inch rear end.

3

Locate the VIN tag on the rear face of the driver-side door---the primary identification tag for the vehicle. On it, look fora box labeled "axle," containing the axle code, which requires consulting a code listing similar to that found on Drivetrain. Verify both the axle tag and door-tag codes to determine whether the vehicle still has its original rear end.

4

Count the bolts on the rear-end housing, and visually identify the rear-end gasket shape; compare the gasket shape with the chart found on the Drivetrain site (see References section). Ford 7.5s and 8.8s have 10 bolts, the 10.25 has 12 and all Dana units have 10 bolts, but each has a different gasket shape. The chart also provides width dimensions for measurement verification.

5

Attach a deep socket with an extension to the lower rear-end bolts. According to Ridgecrest, if the socket goes straight on without hitting the case, your vehicle has an 8-inch rear end; if the socket doesnt fit the bolt on the other side of the center, your vehicle has a 9-inch rear end.

Yamaha provides a limited warranty for its motorcycles sold by authorized dealers. Buyers should receive an explanation and copy of warranty information from the dealer at the time of purchase.

Time Frame

The full warranty -- covering all manufacturer parts and defects -- lasts for one year, with no mileage limitation from date of purchase. The warranty covers some parts, such as the engine, for up to five years or until the motorcycle reaches a specific mileage.

Repair

The warranty covers repairs, free of charge, by a licensed Yamaha dealer during the warranty period. Repaired parts remain covered for the duration of the warranty.

Exclusions

Certain circumstances void the warranty and require the owner to cover the cost of repairs and parts during the warranty period, including damage done by racing, improper transit of motorcycle, and abnormal strain or abuse of the motorcycle. The warranty also will not cover repairs done by someone other than the dealership or if the owner installs non-manufacturer parts during the warranty period.

The starter on the 1994 Ford Thunderbird bolts to the bell housing, between the transmission cross member and the transmission. Compared to other vehicle manufacturers, Ford placed the starter in a relatively easy place. This makes completing the job less labor intensive. If it has become difficult to start your 94 T-bird, replacing the starter will prevent possible damage to the flywheel.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable from the battery with a socket and ratchet.

2

Locate the starter between the transmission cross member and the transmission. If you are not sure what it looks like, use the replacement starter as a visual reference.

3

Remove the nut that secures the positive battery cable to the back of the starter. The nut often rusts, using a pair of vice grips might be necessary.

4

Disconnect the wire harness from the solenoid. The harness has a small tab in the center of it. Push on the tab, and pull the harness off the solenoid.

5

Remove the three bolts that secure the starter to the bell housing. Pull the starter out of the bell housing. Inspect the base of the starter for any shims, which Ford sometimes uses. If you locate any, transfer them from the old starter to the new starter.

6

Slide the starter gear into the hole on the bell housing, and mesh the gear with the flywheel.

7

Secure the starter to the bell housing by bolting it in place.

8

Reconnect the wire harness to the T-Bird solenoid.

9

Reconnect the positive battery wire to the back of the starter. Use the new nut supplied with the replacement starter.

10

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.

When a vehicle breaks down, hiring a tow truck or finding a tow dolly is not always an option. Dinghy towing or flat towing a 1997 Honda Accord is challenging in the fact that it takes a large amount of communication between the front car driver, and the person in the Honda while the car is being towed. The 1997 Honda Accord is actually equipped with a tow loop or towing point underneath the front bumper, attached to the sub-frame of the vehicle. Communication is the key ingredient to making this project safe and doable.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers door of the vehicle you intend to tow the Accord with. Read the towing capacity on the factory door identification tag, to ensure that your towing vehicle has enough towing capacity for the job. The curb weight or dead weight of the 1997 Accord is 2,921-pounds. This means that the vehicle weighs nearly 1-1/2 tons. Make sure that your towing vehicle reads at least 3,000 pounds towing capacity before attempting the tow.

2

Pull the towing vehicle near the front of the Accord, and try to align the two vehicles as parallel as possible. You do not want to start the tow off by having to jerk the Honda sideways to move it.

3

Attach a 2-ton or greater capacity tow strap to the towing vehicle. If the vehicle has a hitch, loop the tow strap around the hitch and harness the hitch ball for your tow point. If no hitch is available, go beneath the rear of the car and attach the tow strap to the rear sub-frame of the towing vehicle. If you are using a tow chain, loop the chain around the hitch ball or sub-frame, then attach the hook to the chain itself.

4

Kneel near the front bumper of the Accord, and visually locate the towing point or loop on the front of the car. Insert the tow strap through the hole of the loop, then perform a slip knot to tie the strap onto the loop. If you do not know how to tie a slip knot, please see the "Tips" section of this article for instructions. If you are using a tow chain, simply hook the towing hook from the chain directly onto the Hondas towing loop.

5

Communicate through brake-lights flashes. Instruct the driver that a double flash of the brake lights means gentle slowing of both vehicles is needed, and three flashes of the brake lights means slowing to a complete stop. Keep the tension in the strap or chain between both vehicles, or the towing apparatus could wind up wrapped up in the drive path of the Accord. Flash the brake lights by tapping on the brake pedal before actual braking.

6

Turn the ignition key on the Accord to the "II" or accessories position. This will unlock the transmission shift lever and the steering wheel. Make your route as straight as possible so that you keep the braking and turns to a minimum. Braking and turning increases the risk of the tow chain or strap being damaged. Depress the brake pedal in the Honda, and shift into "N" or neutral gear.

7

Pull the towing vehicle forward gently to remove the slack from the strap or chain. Keep one foot on the brake so that you do not jerk the Honda suddenly. When the slack is out of the line, you will feel a slight jolt in both vehicles. Driver of the towing vehicle, wave your hand out of the window to signal that you are starting forward.

8

Drive at a speed of no more than 15 miles per hour. This allows for ample time to stop both vehicles when necessary. The driver of the Accord should use the brakes gently to keep the tension on the strap. Remember that your job is to steer the Honda, stop the Honda, and make sure the strap does not end up under the Honda. Tow the vehicle to its destination safely and slowly.

The fuel delivery system is a vital part of your vehicles operation. Within this system, the fuel filter is a component that allows your vehicle to run smoothly. Fuel filters remove any particles from the fuel, such as dirt or rust, that may cause damage to the fuel injector, carburetor or engine. There are a few simple things that you can check if you suspect that your fuel filter is bad and needs replacement.

Instructions

1

Turn the engine off before trying to determine if the fuel filter is bad on your vehicle. You may have to work beneath the car, so allow plenty of space in a safe area for working.

2

Locate the fuel filter. Read the vehicles owners manual to determine if the fuel filter is under the hood or underneath the car. Some fuel filters are connected to the fuel delivery system, whereas some are along the the fuel line beneath the vehicle.

3

Inspect the area around the fuel filter for any obvious damage or problems. If no damage is seen, remove the fuel filter from the fueling system. In most cases, a wrench or similar tool is needed to loosen the bolts that secure the filter. If the filter is underneath the car, you may need additional tools to release the fuel filter.

4

Look at the filter closely. Note that it has a hole on both sides. Remove anything that may obstruct fuel from passing through the holes.

5

Blow through the filter. If the air passes through easily, the filter is still good. If there is a lot of resistance or you have difficulty blowing through it, the filter may be old and clogged and may need to be replaced.

6

Replace the fuel filter and tighten the bolts that secure it in the fueling system. Call a professional mechanic if you are still unsure about the quality or effectiveness of your fuel filter.

The evaporative emission control system on the Ford Taurus traps and stores fuel vapors that would otherwise escape into the atmosphere, and recycles them into an air/fuel mixture used for combustion. The EEC is made up of numerous parts that you must remove individually if you need to remove the system. The vapor storage canister is the primary component, while the other parts are mounted on the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Relieve the fuel systems pressure: open the trunk and pull back the lower trim panel at the driver side B pillar to find the inertia switch and unplug its electrical connector. Start the engine and wait for it to stall.

2

Raise the rear end of the Taurus and support it on jack stands.

3

Disconnect the vent tube for the vapor storage canister from the vent hose on the gas tank filler neck. Disconnect the electrical connectors at the canister vent solenoid.

4

Detach the dust box separator tube and EVAP canister tube by disconnecting their quick-connect fittings at the canister. Remove the four mounting bolts for the vapor storage canister, and remove the canister assembly. Remove the canister vent solenoid from the canister if needed.

5

Remove the fuel tank to access the remaining EEC parts--remove the bolts inside the fuel filler door securing the filler neck, disconnect all accessible fuel and vapor lines and electrical connectors, unbolt the support straps, lower the tank and disconnect all remaining lines.

6

Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor, vapor vent valve and vapor control valve from the top of the fuel tank.

Dodge Ram trucks include the 1500, 2500 and 3500 series. These trucks have a variety of engine sizes, and are available with 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive transmissions. Dodge Ram trucks use sequential fuel injection, which requires an electric fuel pump that produces very high pressure. The procedure for replacing the fuel pump in a Dodge Ram truck is similar for all models and trim levels from 2001 to 2005.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the fuel vent hose from the fuel vent fitting located on the outer portion of the left frame rail. Attach one end of hose no. 6541, 6539, 6631 or 6923 to this fuel vent fitting. The correct hose depends on the specific model and engine of your vehicle. Siphon the fuel from the fuel system into a gasoline container. Connect the fuel vent hose to the fuel vent fitting.

2

Remove the filler tube cap for the fuel tank. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

3

Disconnect the electrical wiring harness and fuel lines from the fuel pump module. Remove the fuel tank. Turn the locknut on the fuel pump module counter-clockwise with special tool 6856, and remove the locknut. Remove the fuel pump module from the fuel tank.

4

Install the new fuel pump module onto the fuel tank. Place the locknut into position and turn it clockwise with special tool 6856 until it locks into place. Install the fuel tank, and connect the wiring harness and fuel lines to the fuel pump module.

5

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Lower the vehicle and replace the filler tube cap for the fuel tank. Start the engine and inspect the fuel system for leaks.

Dont panic if the roof rack on your Honda Odyssey looks bent and asymmetrical. More than likely, the cross bars have simply shifted due to hard stops and bumpy roads, especially if theyve been loaded with heavy luggage. This is a common problem with all roof racks. But in just a few minutes you can adjust the cross bars on your Honda Odyssey roof rack, keeping them ready to safely bear your luggage for many more miles to come.

Instructions

1

Loosen the screws on each side of the cross bars. Some roof rack models use Allen screws, others have a bolt that can be turned with pliers.

2

Align the end of each cross bar symmetrically, about 4 to 8 inches from the front and rear of the roof rack.

3

Securely tighten the screws on each end of the cross bars.

The Ford AXOD-E transmission has received more than a fair share of complaints over the years, including continuous stalling, difficulty shifting, sudden complete failure, slipping out of gear and hesitation to engage in gear.

History

The AXOD and AXOD-E transmissions were introduced in 1986 and have endured several problems since their inception. Meltdown of the geartrain is a common problem, usually as a result of too little pressurized oil present in the gearbox. Historically, cracks appearing in the foremost clutch piston are also a common problem, resulting in the vehicle feeling as though it is stuck in neutral.

Time Frame

Problems plagued this transmission from 1986 through 1995, when it was discontinued. In 1995 a Consumer Reports survey showed that almost 20 percent of 1991 Ford Taurus owners experienced some sort of transmission problem in the past year, a figure four times the average for all 1991 vehicle owners.

Prevention/Solution

Many AXOD-E warranties specify that only the first transmission fix is covered, prompting consumer advocacy groups to advise owners to insist that their first repair be a complete transmission replacement, including the transmission upgrades Ford instituted in order to address the many problems experienced by customers.

A PowerBall is an automotive detailing accessory marketed by a company named Mothers Car Care Products. The PowerBall is a foam ball attached to a metal rod that chucks into an electric drill. It might work best on cast or billet wheels because of their large flat surfaces, but it can be used to polish wire wheels as well. Wire wheels have both aluminum or hard-chromed spokes and chromed rims. The technique for using a PowerBall on them is not self-evident.

Instructions

1

Wash and dry the wheel you intend to polish in bright sunlight.

2

Insert the PowerBall rod into an electric drill chuck. Tighten the chuck by hand or with a drill chuck depending on the drill you are using.

3

Apply a small amount of metal polish to a rag. Wipe the metal polish on the wheels surface or spokes. Wait for the polish to dry.

4

Activate the drill on low speed and gently buff all surfaces coated with dried metal polish using an up and down motion.

5

Repeat as needed.

The versatile F-150 pickup truck fulfills the needs of hard-working tradesmen and growing families alike. The scores of options available allow Fords full-size truck to be tailored to almost anyones requirements. The popularity of the truck may be due, at least in part, to this adaptability. Whether your 1992 model is a basic six-banger stick shift or a luxury model trimmed out with all the goodies, the distributor is replaced in the same manner.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery to safeguard against accidental energizing of ignition circuits. Use a wrench to loosen the nut of the battery terminal through-bolt. Spread the terminal open by inserting and twisting a screwdriver in the gap above the through-bolt. Lift the cable terminal off the battery post, and tuck the cable alongside the battery.

2

Release the distributor cap hold-down clips by hand, and position the cap to one side of the distributor. Disconnect the distributor electrical harness connectors from the vehicle harness by hand.

3

Use a physical feature of the distributor body, like a wire harness, to note the position of the distributor in the engine. Use chalk to make a mark on the engine that coincides with the position of the feature. Make another mark in the engine compartment to signify the exact position of the distributor rotors metal tip, or terminal.

4

Use a wrench to remove the distributor hold-down bolt and retaining shoe at the base of the distributor body. Lift the distributor out of the engine bore while monitoring the rotors movement. Use the final position of the rotor as a starting point in the replacement procedure.

Installation

5

Remove the rotor from the old distributor and press it onto the replacement distributor shaft, observing the locator tab placement. Use the first alignment mark to properly position the distributor body over the engine bore. Turn the rotor to the approximate position it rested in after you removed the distributor from the bore.

6

Set the distributor into the bore fully while noting the rotor position. Use the second alignment mark to verify proper rotor arrangement. You may have to raise the distributor body out of the bore partially to adjust rotor position in subsequent attempts to land squarely at the second alignment mark.

7

Install the distributor hold-down bolt through the retaining shoe and tighten the bolt. Replace the cap and secure it by pressing the hold-down clips into place. Restore the electrical connections at the distributor and battery. Start the engine and use the timing light to set the ignition timing to the manufacturers specifications for your engine.