Repair 7

A cars exhaust system is responsible for transporting the burned exhaust, or combustion gases, from its engine and out the tail pipe. The exhaust system is basically just a long tube attached to the engine and extending to the rear of the vehicle. However, there are certain components that enable the exhaust system to function properly.

Exhaust Manifold

A vehicles exhaust manifold is the upper end of the exhaust system. The exhaust manifold is attached directly to the side of the engine and is the first part of the exhaust system to receive the burned exhaust gases from the cars engine. The exhaust manifold, which is extremely hot, further burns any fuel that was inadequately burned by the engine and funnels it down into the main exhaust system.

Exhaust Pipes

The exhaust pipes make up the brunt of a cars exhaust system. The exhaust pipes, which can be metal or aluminum, are responsible for transporting the burned exhaust gases from the engine and the exhaust manifold and funneling them towards the cars tailpipe.

Muffler/Catalytic Converter

As a cars exhaust gases are transported along the exhaust pipes, they must pass through the muffler, which is an enclosed metal container responsible for "muffling" the sounds of the traveling exhaust gases, and the catalytic converter, which is an "after burner" responsible for igniting and burning any leftover exhaust gases not burned by the engine and exhaust manifold.

The Tail Pipe

The final destination for a cars exhaust gases is the tailpipe. The tailpipe is the end of the entire exhaust system, and it funnels the burned car exhaust out into the outside air, or atmosphere.

The exhaust system in your 1997 Honda CR-V consists of four major sections: the front pipe, the catalytic converter, the resonator pipe and the muffler. The only repair that can be done on the exhaust of the CR-V is replacement of the sections or gaskets. In most cases, replacing the exhaust only involves the resonator and the muffler, but sometimes a new catalytic converter may also be required. The sections are joined with flanges and gaskets to allow easier removal and replacement of the sections. All the sections are available from a Honda dealer or though many auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your CR-V with a jack and support the vehicle on a set of jack stands. Locate the two mounting bolts that join the muffler to the resonator pipe and remove them with a wrench or socket and ratchet.

2

Locate the two rubber isolators/hangers at the rear of the muffler assembly and remove the muffler from them. The muffler has two metal hooks that slide into the hangers; slide them out and remove the muffler from under the vehicle.

3

Locate the flange at the front of the resonator pipe where it meets the catalytic converter. Remove the three bolts with a socket and ratchet or wrench. Remove the resonator assembly from the two rubber hangers that support it just as you did with the ones on the muffler. Remove the resonator from under the vehicle.

4

Inspect the catalytic converter to determine whether it will need replacing or not. If it does need replacing, removal is the same as the other sections, taking out the flange bolts and removing it from the car. In most cases, this is not required.

5

Raise the new resonator pipe into position under the vehicle and hang the assembly in the rubber hangers by inserting the support rods welded on the pipe into the holes in the hanger. Install a new gasket between the catalytic converter and the resonator flange, then install the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

6

Install the new muffler into the rubber hangers in the rear of the vehicle, again sliding the support rods into the holes in the rubber hanger. Raise the front of the muffler, then insert a new gasket between the two flanges and install the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet or a wrench.

7

Raise your CR-V off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the vehicle. Lower the CR-V to the ground carefully and remove the jack. Start the vehicle and listen for any exhaust leaks, especially where the flanges join. If you find any leaks, tighten the mounting bolts in those locations with a wrench until the leak stops.

A diesel exhaust system is designed to remove the emissions from a diesel engine, which differs from a gasoline engine in several ways. The biggest is that diesel engines dont have spark plugs: The diesel fuel ignites spontaneously in the engine rather than needing a spark to ignite. A diesel exhaust system is similar to a gasoline exhaust system in layout, but the specifics differ slightly and requires attention when you upgrade it.

Instructions

1

Raise the vehicle up on a jack or hydraulic lift so that you can upgrade the diesel exhaust system safely.

2

Locate the turbo in the engine and remove the band clamp connecting it to the downpipe with a screwdriver.

3

Disconnect the down pipe from the transmission and the muffler with a welding torch or simply by removing the support bolts, depending on the vehicle.

4

Detach the muffler and the catalytic converter if necessary. Not every exhaust system upgrade requires it, but if a new muffler or converter is involved, the old ones should be removed. You can use either a blowtorch or wrenches to remove the bolts, depending on how they are secured.

5

Install the new downpipe in position, but do not tighten it in place just yet. You want it connected to the turbo firmly, but loose enough you can adjust its alignment once other parts of the diesel exhaust system are installed. You can use a bungee cord or rubber hangers to do this if the downpipe isnt otherwise set up for it.

6

Install the new muffler and/or catalytic converter, if appropriate. Like the downpipe, you want mufflers and catalytic converters to be fitted into position but not tightened or welded into place until you have aligned them properly with the rest of the diesel exhaust system.

7

Connect the straight pipe between the muffler and the downpipe, clamping it into place but still keeping it loose enough to adjust. You may need to adjust the size of the pipe in order to fit the proper distance between the downpipe and the muffler.

8

Attach the hangers and clamps to the diesel exhaust system, checking to make sure that each one is aligned and fits where it should.

9

Connect the tail pipe behind the muffler, leaving it fitted in place but loosely attached, as with the rest of the diesel exhaust system.

10

Check the alignment and clearance of each component in the exhaust system, starting with the downpipe and moving back towards the tail pipe. At each step, you can tighten the clamps or weld the seals for the respective parts, moving step by step through each portion of the system.

11

Tighten the clamp between the downpipe and the turbo, which should complete the upgrade.

12

Check the system for any leaks or gaps. You may want to start the engine and check for any exhaust emissions emerging where they shouldnt. You can seal any leaks with a soldering iron.

13

Lower the vehicle off the lift.

The 2006 Ford Taurus exhaust system is held in place by a number of different fasteners, each of which must be torqued to the proper value when tightening. Gaskets help to seal the pieces together completely. Improper exhaust repairs can create a dangerous carbon monoxide leak, which might get into the vehicle passenger compartment.

Exhaust System Components

There are two exhaust manifolds -- one for each bank of cylinders. They move away from the engine and merge into a "Y" connector, which then enters the upper catalytic converter as a single pipe. Exhaust travels into the second converter, through the muffler to the tailpipe, and out of the vehicle. Two oxygen sensors are located along the exhaust pathway.

Component Functions

Oxygen sensors inserted into the exhaust stream monitor emissions. The catalytic converter uses a platinum catalyst and very high temperatures to change toxic gases to less harmful compounds. The muffler contains a series of baffles that act to cancel out some of the engine noise. Exhaust system isolators are rubber extensions to the mounting brackets and serve to reduce transmission of noise and vibration to the vehicle interior.

Torque Specifications

Torque the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust system nuts to 30 foot-pounds and the dual converter Y-pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts to 35 foot-pounds. The three-way converter-to-muffler clamp nuts should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds as should the catalyst monitor sensors. Proper torque for the dual converter Y-pipe heat shield nuts and bolt (12-valve engine) is 10 foot-pounds, while the dual converter Y-pipe bracket nut (24-valve engine) should be torqued to 30 foot-pounds. The engine mount nut torque spec is 66 foot-pounds, the transmission mount nut should also be torqued to 66 foot-pounds, while the engine roll restrictor bolts need 35 foot-pounds. The muffler rear insulator bracket should be torqued to 13 foot-pounds, the muffler front insulator bracket to 11 foot-pounds and the muffler extension pipe insulator bracket screws to 10 foot-pounds.

Exhaust System Warnings

The entire exhaust system must be allowed to cool before work begins. Support the exhaust system with a suitable jack -- components are heavy. The sharp edges on the catalytic converter can cut the CV joint boot. Protect the half-shaft boot with a small rug or mat before removing the converter assembly. Do not damage the manifold outlet flare, the converter inlet flare, or the studs when replacing the catalytic converter. Do not use oil or grease-based lubricants on the exhaust isolators -- they may damage the rubber and cause the exhaust pipe to loosen during use.

The 1998 Suzuki Esteem was an economical compact car---available as a sedan or a wagon---offering reasonable space and practicality. The Esteem had an understated generic design, but it offered a solid 1.6L, in-line, 4-cylinder engine capable of delivering 95 horsepower. With its light 2,250-pound curb weight, the Esteem posted very respectable fuel economy figures of 37 miles per gallon on the highway and 30 miles per gallon in the city.

Fuel Pump

The Esteems electronically controlled fuel pump is located in the gas tank. As its name suggests, its function is to pump gas through the fuel lines to the engine compartment.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

The fuel pressure regulator, located under the hood, is responsible for feeding fuel directly to the injectors at the correct pressure. This is controlled by the electronic control unit---or ECU---and is based on several parameters, including driver throttle input and revolutions per minute. The regulator must be in good working order, as failing to feed fuel into the engine at the correct pressure can cause severe issues, such as back-firing or even detonation caused by the improper ratio of air to fuel.

Fuel Injectors

The Esteem is equipped with four small fuel injectors, each responsible for providing fuel to the combustion chamber. The injectors are also controlled by the ECU, which instructs the injectors when and for how long to release fuel. Injectors must be free from deposits or contaminants to operate effectively.

Fuel Filter

The fuel filter screens out any foreign object or debris that may accumulate in the fuel tank.

Automobiles, aircraft, boats, construction equipment and power generation systems all use reciprocating engine and exhaust designs. Diesel engines also use a reciprocating exhaust system. These systems expel exhaust similarly to systems within non-diesel vehicles.

Types

Compression ignition systems are also known as diesel engines, while the other type of reciprocating systems --- spark ignition --- uses natural gas for fuel. Both systems expel gas through an exhaust manifold that bolts onto the cylinder combustion ports. Exhaust gases then travel through piping, a catalytic converter and muffler before exiting a tailpipe.

Piping Dimensions

Exhaust piping diameter and shape affect gas flow and velocity. Decreasing bends in the piping increases engine power and fuel efficiency, reducing engine heat by simplifying exhaust flow. Piping length also affects engine power and noise.

Emissions

Reciprocating engines --- especially the diesel-based variety --- expel gases high in nitrogen oxides and carbon monoxide. A catalytic converter, a component of a reciprocating exhaust system, filters exhaust gases. Carbon monoxide can be extremely harmful if inhaled.

Explore challenges with your Accord exhaust system by pinpointing the problem. Inspect key components from the engine to the tailpipe because exhaust system troubles could come from various places. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Honda Accord by acting on warning signs from system devices. Team up with a mechanic to apply these steps for most model years.

Instructions

1

Inspect the exhaust manifold and cylinder head because leaks usually occur where these devices connect. Thermal expansion and contraction cause this problem. Shear stress afflicts the exhaust manifold gasket every time you start your Accord, drive it or turn it off. With time leaks can develop.

2

See if you hear an intermittent hissing or popping sound while the engine is going. Furthermore, look for paint discolorations or burns near the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to check your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Examine the joining area between the exhaust manifold and head pipe. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe meets the exhaust manifold. Hot gases that escaped this area could cause discoloration. This relates to the 2.4L and V6 engines.

4

Check exhaust pipes for damage. Use the large pliers to put pressure on the pipes. Replace any pipe that breaks, tears or gives under pressure. Run the engine when testing your system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with the engine going.

5

Listen for strange sounds coming from exhaust areas including your muffler. A buzzing noise that increases with acceleration could reflect exhaust system problems. A whistle sound or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could result from system restrictions. Get a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings generally mean exhaust blockage.

A malfunctioning car alarm on your 1998 Nissan Altima can keep you and your neighbors up at night. If you are having problems with the alarm, you can disconnect the alarm system from the power supply to keep it from going off. Disconnecting the alarm from the power supply is not very hard. The power supply is your car battery and the alarm is wired into the negative terminal.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your Nissan Altima.

2

Locate the negative terminal labeled with a "-" mark.

3

Use a pair of channel locks or a socket wrench to loosen the negative terminal.

4

Pull the negative terminal off of the battery to disable the alarm.

There is no room in your hydraulic power steering system for air. If you dont bleed your power steering of air, your power steering is almost useless because the system cant compress the air like it would power steering fluid.

Effects

If your steering becomes difficult, or your vehicle makes noise when you steer, there may be air in the power steering system. Making turns or parallel parking will usually make these issues more noticeable.

Causes

Low power steering fluid may be the problem. However, filling the power steering reservoir may only fix the problem temporarily. If there is a leak in the system somewhere, your fluid level will just drop again and the problem will return.

Considerations

If you recently changed any part of the power steering system, such as the pump or pressure hose, you probably want to bleed the system. In most cars, this is an easy process, but you may want to hire a professional.

While some car problems may go undiagnosed for a long period, its likely youll notice an exhaust leak soon after it happens. If your cars exhaust system is leaking, it will noticeably create more clouds of exhaust, noise and smell while idling in your driveway. Minor leaks may close up once the exhaust system warms up and expands, so inspect your car when it is cool to see if the exhaust system is leaking.

Instructions

1

Jack the back end of the vehicle up off the ground, and place jack stands under the vehicles frame for support. Place wheel chocks against the front tires.

2

Inspect the exhaust pipe for cracks or punctures. If you find one, ensure it is the only one.

3

Cut through the exhaust pipe with a hacksaw, roughly an inch on either side of the leak to remove a section of the pipe. Ensure your cuts are perpendicular to the pipe to make inserting the replacement pipe easier.

4

Snip an appropriately sized piece of aluminum sheet metal with tin snips. Youll use this to bend into a replacement pipe that will be slightly longer than the opening you cut with the hacksaw.

5

Wrap the sheet metal around the steel pipe to form a pipe-shaped tube. Ensure the new pipe, called the inner sleeve, is small enough to fit snugly inside the two ends of the original exhaust pipe.

6

Fit one end of the inner sleeve into the original exhaust pipe, and then push the other end of the inner sleeve into the other end of the exhaust pipe.

7

Create another new pipe with the tin snips, aluminum sheet metal and rolling device. This time, make the new pipe slightly larger than the vehicles exhaust pipe, as it will serve as the outer sleeve.

8

Place the outer sleeve over the inner sleeve, and secure it an inch from either end to the vehicles exhaust pipe with exhaust clamps.

9

Wrap several layers of muffler tape around both ends of the outer sleeve, between the exhaust clamps and the vehicles exhaust pipe. The tape will ensure no exhaust is able to leak out, as well as eliminate any vibration noises associated with your work.

10

Remove the wheel chocks and jack stand, then lower the vehicle back to the ground.

A good way to handle problems with your Camry exhaust system is to tackle the culprit. Exhaust system difficulties could develop from several causes, so inspect devices from the engine to the tailpipe. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Toyota Camry by recognizing warning signs from exhaust system components. Work with a mechanic on the steps below that relate to most model years.

Instructions

1

Check the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Leaks usually occur where these devices connect because of heat expansion and contraction. Shear stress affects the exhaust manifold gasket every time you crank up your Camry, drive it or turn it off. Leaks can result as time passes.

2

Listen for hissing or popping sounds occurring intermittently when the engine runs. See if you spot paint discolorations or burns around the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to inspect your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Inspect the area that joins the head pipe and exhaust manifold. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe and exhaust manifold meet. Look for discoloration from hot gases that escaped this area. This pertains to the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines.

4

See if the exhaust pipes suffer wear. Take large pliers and put pressure on the pipes. Replace all pipes that break, tear or give way to pressure. Keep the engine on while you test the system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with a live engine.

5

Determine if sounds come from exhaust areas around your muffler. Buzzing sounds that increase with acceleration for example, are a sign of exhaust system problems. A whistle or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could come from system restrictions. Ask a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings indicate blockage.

The fuel system pressurizes fuel from the fuel tank to the engine. Fuel-injection systems meter the fuel injected for the cylinders by controlling the length of time the injectors are open. To inject the correct amount of fuel, the pressure must be constant. The fuel pump contains a check valve to ensure a rapid start next time the vehicle is started by maintaining fuel pressure throughout the system. Depressurize the fuel system to prevent spraying highly flammable gasoline before replacing fuel system components such as a fuel pump.

Instructions

Stall Method

1

Place the vehicle in park. Set the parking brake to prevent vehicle movement. Open the hood.

2

Open the gas filler door. Remove the gas cap to relieve fuel vapor pressure from the fuel tank.

3

Locate the fuel pump fuse. Generally, the fuel pump fuse is located in the underhood electrical distribution center near the battery. Remove the plastic cover protecting the distribution center. The fuse location should be labeled on a diagram on the plastic cover.

4

Start the vehicle and allow the engine to idle. Remove the fuel pump fuse. The engine will run normally for several seconds. The engine will start to hesitate and misfire. Allow the engine to stall.

5

Turn the ignition key off. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a metric wrench to prevent accidental re-pressurization of the fuel system.

Fuel Gauge and Test Port Method

6

Park the vehicle. Engage the parking brake to prevent accidental vehicle movement. Open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a metric wrench. Open the fuel filler door. Open the gas cap to relieve pressure inside the gas tank.

7

Locate the fuel pressure test port. The test port has a screw on protective dust cap and looks almost exactly like a tire valve stem. Remove the protective dust cap by hand.

8

Place a rag around the fuel test port to catch fuel leakage. Screw the fuel pressure gauge onto the fuel pressure test port.

9

Place the end of the clear plastic line of the fuel pressure gauge into a gas can. Depress the pressure relief button on the fuel gauge to bleed the fuel system pressure into the gas can. Release the valve. The fuel pressure gauge needle should register zero.

10

Remove the fuel pressure gauge and reinstall the dust cap on the fuel pressure test port.

The 2001 Malibu cam relatively well-equipped with standard features. The mid-sized sedan came with: air conditioning, keyless entry, power door locks and a passive ignition disabling system. The passive ignition disabling system, known as Passlock, prevented the Malibu from starting without a coded key. When the Passlock system detects a fault in the security system, a "Theft System" light stays lit on the instrument cluster.

Incorrectly Coded Key

The Passlock system on the 2001 Malibu uses a key with a small magnet on it. This magnet passes a sensor inside the ignition tumbler, and the sensor reads the code stored in the magnet. If the codes do not match, due to improper coding or a failing key, the Theft System light stays on and the vehicle will not start.

Failed Ignition Tumbler

Over time, the wires inside the Passlock ignition tumbler can wear out and create a short. If the computer senses a short-to-ground in the wiring of the Passlock system, it triggers a "Security on" code that illuminates the "Theft System" light until you repair the problem.

Failed Instrument Cluster

As your 2001 Malibu ages, water and other debris can cause damage to the circuitry of the instrument cluster. If the instrument cluster shorts out, it is common for the "Theft System" light to illuminate.

Control Module Failure

The 2001 Malibus body control module and powertrain control module work together to determine when the Passlock system is to allow the car to start. When one of these two components fail or are incorrectly programmed, the "Theft System" light illuminates and the Malibu will not start.