Repair 7

Since its founding in the 1930s, Japans Toyota Motor Corporation has produced a variety of motor vehicle engines for trucks and cars in its own line and for other manufacturers.

Efficient System

Not surprisingly, the prolific Toyota Motor Corporation uses one of the most efficient engine identification systems among automobile manufacturers. The companys method incorporates each vehicles vehicle identification number, or VIN, making it nearly impossible to purchase the wrong engine for a given model.

Finding Your VIN

Your Toyota VIN is a combination of 17 numbers and letters. You can find it in the following places: on your insurance card; on your vehicle registration; on the "VIN plate" located on the lower dashboard closest to the closest to the windshield on the drivers side; and printed on the certificate label located on the drivers side door jamb.

Identification

In looking at the VIN, note the first numeric characters, which specify the engine blocks generation. The next one or two letters specify the engine family. The suffix, which is separated by a dash, specifies the features of the engine. For example, "C" indicates "emissions control system" while "E" indicates "electronic fuel injection."

The exhaust system in a Toyota Paseo is responsible for carrying the exhaust fumes from the engine to the back of the vehicle. Once fuel has been burned in the engine, it is expelled through the exhaust manifold and into the exhaust system. Over time, the exhaust system will fail primarily due to either rust or corrosion. However, if the exhaust system in your Paseo has been damaged in any way, its time to change it.

Instructions

1

Jack up the front of the Toyota Paseo using the front jack point located behind the radiator, and place the jack stands underneath the front pinch welds located on either side of the vehicle.

2

Jack up the rear of the vehicle using the rear jack point near the trunk area and place jack stands underneath the rear pinch welds located on either side of the vehicle.

3

Loosen and remove the O2 sensor located in the exhaust piping near the catalytic converter. Unplug the electrical wire that is connected to the O2 sensor and then use the O2 sensor removal tool (a socket extension) to turn the O2 sensor counterclockwise.

4

Place a jack stand near the catalytic converter to support the exhaust piping. Place another jack stand under the exhaust piping near the rear of the vehicle for additional support.

5

Unbolt the exhaust piping from the exhaust manifold.

6

Slide the exhaust piping off the rubber hangers that are attached to the body of the vehicle. Since you are replacing the entire exhaust, you dont need to unbolt any of the intermediate pieces.

7

Install the new exhaust system. Installation is the reverse of removal.

In 2007, numerous reports detailed problems with flaws in the camshafts of some Toyota Tundra engines. Toyota admitted responsibility and promised to pay to replace the failing engines.

Problem in Focus

According to USA Today, the defective engines had broken-down camshafts, one of four essential parts that caused engines to fail entirely or to barely run. Camshafts control the 32 valves that move air and fuel in and out of the engines combustion chamber. The defects were found in the camshafts controlling the intake valves in at least 20 Toyota Tundras.

Flaws Linked to Subcontractor

Toyota described the flaws as a manufacturing defect by an unidentified subcontractor, according to The Money Times. The damaged camshafts were manufactured for Toyotas Alabama plant, Toyota engineers told Consumer Affairs.

The Solution

Rather than fixing the flaws, Toyota paid for brand-new engines, shipping them to owners via local dealerships, USA Today reported. Replacement engines were free, according to The Money Times.

Finding a Toyota thermostat depends on the year and the engine motor you are dealing with. However, there are a few standard guidelines to follow when locating and servicing the thermostat.

Follow the Flow

Follow the upper radiator hose from the top of the radiator. Where the hose ends and clamps on is called the thermostat housing. This housing will be either on the intake manifold or the engine block.

Housing Removal

Sometimes in newer Toyotas this housing in under a plastic engine cover. This cover is easily removed, as it is held on by either a couple of bolts or a couple plastic clips. Once removed, the thermostat housing will be visible. Remove the radiator cap and unclamp the upper hose from the thermostat housing. This housing is held in place by two or three bolts.

The Thermostat

Once the housing is removed, the thermostat will be revealed. It should pull out easily at this point. Thermostats have either a rubber O-ring or a fiber gasket to keep the housing from leaking. Be sure to replace this gasket if the thermostat if replacing the device.

The 1986 Toyota Pickup belongs to the fourth generation of this series which was in production from 1983 to 1988. The most common engine for this vehicle is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine. The 1986 Toyota pickup uses a timing chain to drive the camshaft with the crankshaft. The timing chain may require replacement, although it can last for the lifetime of the vehicle. The most critical aspect of the timing chain replacement is keeping the timing marks aligned during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the alternator and oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the cooling fan with the water pump still attached. Disconnect the securing bolt for the crankshaft pulley and pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

2

Detach the water bypass hose to access the timing chain cover. Disconnect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt with a socket wrench. Remove the water outlet pipe for the heater.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and detach the cover. Separate the timing chain from the crankshaft damper. Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump drive from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a wrench until the crankshaft key aligns with the timing mark on the crankcase. Align the key way on the crankshaft sprocket with the key on the crankshaft and mount the sprocket to the crankshaft.

5

Mount the new timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket so that the single bright link on the chain aligns with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Mount the timing chain to the camshaft sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket is between the pair of bright links on the timing chain.

6

Place the drive spline for the oil pump over the key on the crankshaft and mount the gasket for the timing chain cover to the front of the engine block. Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise with a wrench to take up the slack on the timing chain.

7

Replace the cover for the timing chain. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the 10-mm bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer to the gaskets for the oil pan and timing chain cover.

8

Connect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt, and tighten its mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the water outlet pipe for the heater and the water bypass pipe.

9

Mount the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench. Attach the water pump and air conditioning compressor. Connect the oil pan and alternator.

When the car horn dies on your Toyota, the only way to fix it is to replace it with another horn. Its important to make this repair as soon as possible. While you will still be able to drive the vehicle, it will not pass a state inspection. The horn is important in ensuring your safety as you drive. It alerts pedestrians and other drivers to your presence. Replacement horns can be purchased at auto parts dealers or junkyards.

Instructions

1

Open and stabilize the hood of the car, making sure to prop it up so you can operate under the hood.

2

Find the horn attached to the inside of the cars grille, in front of your engine.

3

Unscrew the screws that hold the horn in place at the front of the grille. Unplug the electrical harness.

4

Remove the horn from your Toyota.

5

Insert the new horn at the same spot from which the previous one was removed. Screw it in place with the screws you removed earlier, and plug the power wires into the new horns socket.

Replacing the spark plug wires with a new set of high-quality wires on your Toyota Camry can improve the performance and allow the engine to run smoother. New plug wires can increase the fuel economy of the car as well. Regular inspection of the wires for cracks, nicks, tears or burns is the best way to know when the wires need to replaced. Spark plug wire sets are available from Toyota dealers and most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Camry and locate the negative cable on the battery terminal. Remove the retaining bolt from the battery cable end with a wrench. Lift the cable off the battery. Set it aside, making sure it cannot fall back against the terminals while you are working.

2

Locate the spark plug wires on the top of the engine. The wires run from the ignition coil or coil packs to the spark plugs. There are four on the 2.2-liter engine and six on the 3.0-liter engine.

3

Pick one wire. Remove the wire from the coil by pulling the wire off the terminal. Follow the wire to the spark plug. Grasp the wire by the boot on the spark plug end and pull it off the spark plug.

4

Lay the spark plug wire out straight and find the matching wire from the new spark plug wire kit. Place a small amount of dielectric grease in each end of the wire. Install the new wire on the coil and the spark plug. Push the wire onto the terminal and the plug until it snaps in place.

5

Move to the next wire and repeat the process. Continue replacing plug wires until all of them are new. Do not remove more than one wire at a time. Doing so could affect the firing order, in which case the engine will not run correctly.

6

Reattach the negative cable on the negative battery terminal. Tighten the retaining bolt with a wrench. Close the hood and discard the old wires.

Correct ignition timing specifications are crucial for engine performance. Timing affects many variables, including fuel economy and engine longevity. Corolla is one of the most popular compact cars that was first introduced in 1966 and produced by Japanese automaker Toyota. Its engineers have determined precise timing specifications so that you can benefit from your Corolla as much as possible.

Measuring Ignition Timing

Use a timing light to check your timing while the engine is running. An inductive trigger signal will be picked up from one of the spark plug cables, causing the light to turn on and freeze while the spark plug fires. This helps to determine the crankshaft position. Use this information for making timing adjustments because the rate at which the crankshaft is spinning and is processed by the distributor controls the ignition (that is, controls when the spark should occur).

Timing Specifications

Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burned on a Toyota Corolla is approximately 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) at 700 rpm.

Notes

Maximum RPM is not allowed. Cooling fan and vacuum advance (if equipped) should be turned off while adjusting the ignition timing.

You can clear the error codes on your Toyota Corolla right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. Corollas made in 1996 or later come standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer (OBD II), whereas earlier Corollas come with an OBD I computer. You will need to purchase or borrow an OBD I or II scanner to read and clear the error codes. Sensors are positioned throughout the Corolla that detect malfunctions and send this information in the form of error codes to the computer, which in turn illuminates a warning light on the instrument panel. The sensors also keep track of the regular maintenance needs of the car, and this is displayed on the instrument panel in the form of a service light. Do not attempt to clear the error codes until you have had the vehicle serviced or repaired. The lights will keep turning themselves on if you prematurely reset the computer.

Instructions

1

Plug the scanner into the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) on the lower part of the drivers side dashboard near the hood release.

2

Put the key into the ignition, and turn it to the "on" position. Dont crank the engine. The scanner will turn on automatically.

3

Locate a command on the scanner that says "Erase Codes" or something similar. Select this command. Once the scanner has completed the task, it will display "Command Sent" or just return you to the main menu.

4

Unplug the scanner, and start the engine. Verify on the instrument cluster that all warning and service lights have shut off.

The rotors are arguably the most important of all of the components of the 2002 Toyota 4Runners brake assembly. The rotors provide the platform on which the brake pads rely to slow and eventually stop the vehicle. Damaged rotors will compromise the effectiveness of the brakes, leading to uncontrolled braking and possibly brake failure. Inspect the rotors regularly for scoring and other damage to catch any repair or replacement needs as soon as possible.

Instructions

1

Park the 4Runner on a flat surface and turn the engine off. Open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap located on the right side of the engine, near the back of the engine compartment. Remove 1/3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster. Place a shop rag over the containers opening.

2

Place tire blocks in front of the front tires. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels with the 17-mm socket and breaker bar. Place the jack under the frame in the back of the vehicle and lift the rear wheels off the ground. Rest the rear axles onto jack stands and remove the jack. Remove the lug nuts and take the back wheels/tires off.

3

Remove the caliper slide bolts on the right rear caliper with the 14-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the caliper bracket and suspend it above the brake assembly with a wire coat hanger or bungee cord. Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket by hand. Each of the two pads will slide from the caliper bracket slots on either side of the right rear brake rotor.

4

Remove the caliper bracket bolts with the 16-mm wrench. Lift the bracket from the rotor and set it aside.

5

Tap the center section of the rotor with a dead-blow hammer to loosen the grip of rust on the back side of the rotor. Grab the rotor on both sides and pull it straight from the wheel hub.

6

Spray brake parts cleaner on the wheel hub and clean the area with a wire brush to remove rust and other debris. Clean the new brake rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner and a cloth towel.

7

Place the new rotor on the wheel bolts with the raised center section facing out. Replace the caliper bracket on the rotor and screw in the caliper bolts. Slide the new brake pads into the bracket slots on either side of the rotor.

8

Place the C-clamp over the caliper piston and the back side of the rear caliper. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper. Remove the clamp after the piston has been forced completely inside the caliper wall. Place the caliper over the bracket and the new brake pads. Screw in the caliper slide bolts and tighten them with the 14-mm wrench.

9

Move to the opposite side of the 4Runner and replace the left rotor and brake pads (follow Steps 3 through 8). Place the wheels back on the Toyotas rear wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts by hand. Lift the rear-end of the 4Runner with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the rear tires to the ground and tighten the lugs with the socket and breaker bar. Return to the drivers seat.

10

Start the Toyotas engine and press the brake pedal repeatedly until the pedal response returns to normal. Move to the engine compartment with a funnel and brake fluid. Remove the shop rag and place the funnel inside the reservoir. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Toyotas hood.

The appearance of the "Check Engine" light on your 1992 Toyota indicates there is a problem with your vehicles engine, exhaust or fuel systems. The vehicle needs to be inspected by a qualified mechanic before you reset the engine light yourself. After any needed repairs have been completed, resetting the Toyotas On-Board Diagnostics computer will turn off the check engine light. All you need is an OBD scanning tool that reads the trouble codes and erases them from the OBD computer.

Instructions

1

Locate and open the fuse panel cover which is located under the steering column. Use your fingers to open it by pulling down on it from the top.

2

Look for an open port inside the fuse panel that is the same shape and size as the connector end on the OBD scanning tool. Once you have located this, plug the OBD scanning-tool connector into the port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it on, but do not start the engine. This will power on the OBD scanning tool; you dont need to turn the tool on manually.

4

Wait for the display on the OBD scanning tool to read "OK." Press "Clear" on the OBD scanning tool to turn off the check engine light.

5

Unplug the scanning tool from the port and put the fuse panel cover back in place. Turn the vehicle off, wait a minute, then start the engine. Look at the instrument cluster to make sure the check engine light has turned off for good.

In 2001, Toyota Camrys were manufactured with multiple engine options. In base form, the Camry came equipped with the 2.2-liter DOHC inline four-cylinder engine which offered buyers excellent fuel economy at a reasonable price. In upgraded form, the Camry came equipped with a more powerful 3.0-liter DOHC V6 that provided more power with slightly increased price tag. The camshafts in each engine are monitored by a camshaft position sensor that records the position of the camshafts in relation to the crankshaft. The positional information is used by the PCM to alter ignition timing and ensure that the engine runs smoothly. A faulty camshaft sensor can cause symptoms such as stalling, sputtering, and lack of power. Checking the resistance on camshaft sensor terminals and comparing that to a specified value is the proper way to determine the whether the camshaft sensor is operating properly.

Instructions

2.2-Liter Engine

1

Open the hood and locate the camshaft position sensor. It is bolted to the lower-right side of the valve cover assembly, on the front side of the engine block. Its a small black sensor with a two-wire connector attached to it.

2

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector by depressing the locking tab on the connector and pulling it away from the sensor.

3

Measure the resistance across the camshaft sensors pin terminals with a digital multimeter.

4

Compare the resistance value on the digital multimeter to the specified value. The specified resistance value for the 2.2-liter engine is 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensors resistance value is outside these parameters then the sensor must be replaced.

3.0-Liter Engine

5

Open the hood and locate both camshaft position sensors; in the V6 engine there are twoone in each cylinder head. The sensor itself is located on the back rear corner of each cylinder head. It is black, just like the sensor for the 2.2-liter engine and has the same two-wire connector attached to it.

6

Disconnect the electrical connectors on each sensor by depressing the locking tab and pulling the sensor connector off of the sensors connector flange.

7

Measure the resistance across each sensors two pin terminals and record that value on a piece of paper.

8

Compare the resistance value against the specified values for the sensors. If the sensor is made by DENSO, the resistance should fall between 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensor is made by Wabash, the resistance should fall between 1,690 to 2,560 Ohms when cold and 2,145 to 3,010 Ohms when hot. The sensor should have a stamping mark on the inside of the plastic connecting flange indicating which company manufactured it. If the sensor falls outside of these specified values then it is faulty.

Replacing a faulty stereo and upgrading to an aftermarket unit are among the most popular reasons why Toyota 4Runner owners choose to remove the factory-installed stereo. Although Toyota manufactures very reliable stereo equipment, problems do happen from time to time. The most common problems that occur with the factory stereo are static feedback and intermittent radio button operation or failure. Because the factory radio is not serviceable while inside the vehicle, it must be removed in order to be repaired or replaced with another unit.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery lead with a battery wrench. Lift up the center console cover and insert a flat-head screwdriver in between the edge of the parking brake/cup holder panel and the outer console.

2

Pry around the outside of the parking brake/cup holder panel with the flat-head screwdriver in order to disengage its retaining clips. Remove the parking brake/cup holder panel and set it aside.

3

Insert a flat-head screwdriver in between the shifter console panel and the center console and pry around the circumference of the shifter console panel. Remove the shifter console panel.

4

Pry around the circumference of the center cluster finish panel with a flat-head screwdriver to disengage the locking clips. Grip the center cluster finish panel with two hands and pull it toward you to separate it. Disconnect the center cluster finish panels electrical connectors and remove the panel.

5

Remove the screws holding the radio to the center of the dashboard and pull the radio out of its slot. Disconnect the radios electrical connectors and remove the radio from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Reconnect the radios electrical connectors and slide it into its mounting slot. Reinstall the radios retaining screws.

7

Reconnect the center cluster finish panels electrical connectors and set it into position. Press down on the edges of the panel until it snaps into place.

8

Set the shifter console panel into position over the shifter and press it into place until the locking clips engage.

9

Set the parking brake/cup holder panel into position and press it down until it locks into place.

10

Close the center console compartment lid, reconnect the battery cable and test the radio.

The first generation (1968-69) Toyota Corolla was the manufactures smallest vehicle ever released in the United States at that time. The second generation Corolla became the second-best selling car in the world, as stated by Edmunds. As of December 2010, the Corolla is in its tenth generation. The eighth and tenth generation featured identical exhaust system designs, and installing an exhaust system for the 2001 to 2003 Toyota Corolla S 1.8-liter I-4 requires a vehicle lift, a socket wrench set, wrench set and saw with a blade capable of cutting metal.

Instructions

Uninstalling Stock Exhaust

1

Lift the Corolla off the ground using a hydraulic lift or wheel jack and jack stands. Leave enough room underneath the vehicle to work on the exhaust system components efficiently.

2

Unbolt the muffler assembly from the swivel bolt flange located on the opposite end of the muffler from the tailpipe using the socket and wrench set. There will be two flange nuts mating the front pipe and muffler assembly piping together.

3

Lift the muffler assembly off the hanger hooks and pull it out from its mounted position.

4

Place the muffler assembly and all the corresponding hardware and insulators off to the side. Do not lose any of these components because they may be used during the exhaust replacement installation.

5

Unbolt the chassis brace, located underneath the front pipe. The front pipe is located after the resonator assembly. Remove the front pipe and place it off to the side along with all its hardware.

6

Remove the original resonator assembly if your new exhaust system includes a replacement resonator. In this case, cut the original resonator piping one to three inches in front of the weld melding the resonator assembly to the exhaust piping leading towards the engine.

7

Prepare to install the new exhaust.

Installing New Exhaust

8

Install the front resonator assembly using the hardware and clamps provided by the new exhaust system after slipping it over the recently cut original piping. Install the new exhaust components from the front of the vehicle towards the rear.

9

Bolt the exhaust hangers in place starting with those that hold the resonator assembly.

10

Install the front pipe to the resonator assembly using the provided or stock hardware using the socket and wrench set. Reconnect the chassis brace. If applicable connect the front pipe to the necessary hangers.

11

Mount the muffler assembly. First connect and bolt the swivel bolt flange mentioned above using the two flange nuts.

12

Hang the muffler assembly on the hangers and tighten the remaining hardware.

13

Adjust the newly installed Corolla exhaust system as needed. Tighten hardware and fasteners from the front of the vehicle to the rear.

14

Lower vehicle back onto the ground.

A good way to handle problems with your Camry exhaust system is to tackle the culprit. Exhaust system difficulties could develop from several causes, so inspect devices from the engine to the tailpipe. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Toyota Camry by recognizing warning signs from exhaust system components. Work with a mechanic on the steps below that relate to most model years.

Instructions

1

Check the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. Leaks usually occur where these devices connect because of heat expansion and contraction. Shear stress affects the exhaust manifold gasket every time you crank up your Camry, drive it or turn it off. Leaks can result as time passes.

2

Listen for hissing or popping sounds occurring intermittently when the engine runs. See if you spot paint discolorations or burns around the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to inspect your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Inspect the area that joins the head pipe and exhaust manifold. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe and exhaust manifold meet. Look for discoloration from hot gases that escaped this area. This pertains to the 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engines.

4

See if the exhaust pipes suffer wear. Take large pliers and put pressure on the pipes. Replace all pipes that break, tear or give way to pressure. Keep the engine on while you test the system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with a live engine.

5

Determine if sounds come from exhaust areas around your muffler. Buzzing sounds that increase with acceleration for example, are a sign of exhaust system problems. A whistle or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could come from system restrictions. Ask a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings indicate blockage.

The Toyota Camry is a series of compact and mid-size cars in production since 1982. The 1987 model is a second generation Camry, which typically has a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt on a 1987 Toyota Camry has a limited lifetime and should last at least 60,000 miles before needing replacement.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench and discard their gaskets. Remove the thru-bolt and the mounting insulator on the right side of the engine. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the right engine-mounting bracket and remove the bracket.

2

Remove the timing belt guide and timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the No. 1 and No. 2 idler pulleys and remove the pulleys. Detach the timing pulley for the crankshaft, using a pair of pry tools if necessary. Disconnect the retaining nut for the oil pump pulley and remove the oil pump pulley.

3

Slide the oil pump pulley onto its shaft and tighten the retaining nut to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Align the set key on the crankshaft-timing pulley with the corresponding groove on the pulley shaft, and slide the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt to 80 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

4

Connect the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten its retaining bolt to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the No. 1 idler pulley, loosely fasten its retaining bolt and connect the tension spring. Pull the No. 1 idler pulley as far to the left as it will go and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench to hold it in place temporarily.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up. Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft-timing pulley, oil pump pulley, No. 2 idler pulley and water pump pulley.

6

Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete turns clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up once again. Adjust the No. 1 timing pulley as needed to keep it aligned with its timing mark. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the bracket for the right engine mount. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. and tighten the thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the insulator for the right engine mount and tighten the insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. Install the timing belt cover with new gaskets and tighten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

Replacing an O2, or oxygen, sensor in your Toyota Sienna involves removal and replacement of as many as three sensors in the vehicle. The sensors are not all going to fail at once, but they will all produce the same symptoms. So before you pull any of them out of the van, visit an auto parts store or dealership and ask them to scan the computer on your van to determine which sensor is failing. Replacement sensors are available from Toyota or most auto parts retailers and can be costly to purchase.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your Sienna and locate the two sensors in the engine compartment. There is one in each exhaust manifold on either side of the engine. The third sensor is located under the van just downstream of the catalytic converter and can only be accessed from under the van.

2

Locate the wiring harness on the top of the O2 sensor and follow it back until you locate the connector where it joins the main wiring harness. Release the locking tab on the connector, then separate the two halves.

3

Install an O2 sensor socket on the sensor, then turn it counterclockwise with a ratchet until it is loose enough to remove. Discard the old sensor. Thread in a new one and then tighten the sensor with the O2 socket and ratchet.

4

Run the wiring harness to the connector on the vehicles main wiring harness and push the two connectors together. Make sure the locking tab engages and the two connectors are secure.

5

Raise your Sienna with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension to support it. Slide under the vehicle, locate the O2 sensor right behind the catalytic converter, and repeat the same process you used under the hood to replace the other sensor if required.

6

Raise the Sienna off the jack stands with your jack, remove the stands and lower the van to the ground. Remove the jack from under the vehicle then close the hood.