Repair 7

The front spindle nut on a 1995 Honda Accord is a single-use nut. This nut contains an outer flange that must be staked into a groove on the end of the axle shaft. The staking procedure prevents the nut from loosening when the vehicle is driven, but necessitates the replacement of the nut when its removed. In order to remove the 36 mm axle nut, the staked portion of the nut must be pounded out of the axle shaft to allow the nut to spin freely.

Instructions

Removal

1

Break the front lug nuts loose with a lug nut socket and a t-handle breaker bar.

2

Lift the front of the vehicle with a jack and set it down on jack stands

3

Remove the lug nuts and wheel. Locate the axle nut in the center of the rotor, on the end of the axle shaft. Align a steel punch with the staked-in portion of the axle nut, then use a hammer to drive the punch into the staked-in portion to undo the staking.

4

Place a 36 mm socket on the end of a t-handle breaker bar and place the socket over the axle nut. Ask an assistant to hold a large pry in-between the wheel studs; this holds the hub still so the axle and transmission arent damaged.

5

Loosen and remove the axle nut, then discard it.

Installation

6

Install a new axle nut onto the axle shaft, and have an assistant hold the pry bar between the wheel studs again.

7

Tighten the nut and torque it to 181 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Align a steel punch with the channel on the axle shaft, then strike the punch with a hammer to stake the new nut into place.

9

Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle back to the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

If you have lost your keyless remote for your 2000 Honda, you can buy a replacement remote. The replacement wont work until you manually program it for your car. You must have a key to the ignition and be able to turn on the car; this will enter the car into programming mode. If you fulfill a few basic security steps to prove that you have access to the car, you will be able to program any number of keyless remotes.

Instructions

1

Insert the car key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. This will be the second click as you turn the key.

2

Press the "lock or "unlock" button on the keyless remote.

3

Turn the car key back to the locked position. This is also known as the "0" position because the key cannot be twisted anymore to the left. You will know if the key is in the "0" position if the key can be pulled out of the car.

4

Repeat steps 1 through 3 two more times, and be sure to use the same keyless remote each time. You should have now completed steps 1 through 3 three times.

5

Turn the ignition key to the "on" or "II" position by turning the key until you feel it click twice.

6

Press either the "lock" or "unlock" button on the keyless remote. You will now be in programming mode. If done properly, the power locks on the doors will lock and unlock automatically.

7

Press the "lock" or "unlock" button one more time. This should be done for any keyless remote you wish to program. You will know it is done correctly when the car locks automatically.

8

Turn the ignition back to the "0" or locked setting, and remove the key from the ignition.

Fuel problems in 2005 Honda Civic vehicles have resulted in recalls and multiple consumer complaints. If not repaired, the recalled gas tanks on these vehicles could rupture in the case of a fire, per the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Less dangerous problems include issues with the fuel injector, and a potential for burning excess gas.

Fuel Tank

In 2007, Honda recalled certain 1998-to-2007 model-year Civics due to a risk of the tanks exploding in the event of a fire. A manufacturing defect put these tanks at risk for heating unevenly, potentially preventing the pressure-relief device from ventilating the tank. To remedy the issue, authorized dealers were instructed to install a heat-insulating material in the rear seat.

Fuel Injector

Consumer complaints to NHTSA indicate that some 2005 Honda Civic hybrid owners might experience problems with the fuel injector. Due to a manufacturing problem, the cars computer might be programmed with an inappropriately low fuel-injector fuel-flow rate. Drivers affected should have received a recall notice. Repair of the problem may subsequently result in a 10-to-15 percent drop in fuel economy.

Excess Fuel Burning

The automatic choke on the 2005 Honda Civic EX might come on every time the car is started, according to consumer complaints to NHTSA. As of 2010, no recall has been issued to address this problem.

Typically, when you turn the output dial on your heater fan controls, more hot air will flow through the heat vents on your Accord. Over time, the motor that regulates how much heat is pushed into the vehicle can fail and no air will come through the vents. When this happens, you can either take your car to a mechanic, who of course will charge you for doing the work inside your dashboard, or you can complete the repair yourself in under an hour. Unlike some other components of your car, the blower motor can not be repaired without completely remanufacturing the unit, theore it is almost always replaced when it fails.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal on your battery. This should be done any time you are working on your vehicle to reduce the risk of electrical shock or short.

2

Locate all of the screws attaching the glovebox door to the glovebox. Remove the screws by turning them counterclockwise. Turn the screws on the glovebox frame counterclockwise once you have removed the door. Pull the glovebox frame from the dashboard.

3

Remove the electrical connector from the blower motor unit. This is a series of wires leading into a plastic connector.

4

Turn all connector bolts on the blower motor counterclockwise to remove the motor from the mounting flange. There are four bolts located at the corners of the blower motor.

5

Pull down on the blower motor to remove it from the heater duct.

6

Reverse the process to install the new heater blower motor into the vehicle.

Shifting through gears is a basic function for vehicles as they gain speed. Some cars, such as Hondas, are outfitted with a hydraulic clutch system that needs proper maintenance to avoid problematic shifting.

Function

A Honda hydraulic clutch is controlled by pressurized fluids for energy transfer between the engine and the transmission, resulting in more speed to the cars wheels. This type of clutch is used in manual transmission Hondas.

Considerations

If problems arise, such as a slipping or clicking within the hydraulic clutch system, verify the transmission fluid is at the proper level in the reservoir located near the rear of the engine. If the fluid is low, check for leaks within the lines since this can lower functionality from lack of hydraulic pressure.

Significance

If there is no leak and the hydraulic clutch is still malfunctioning, it may be necessary to replace the clutch. Over time, the constant squeezing of the clutch disc, when the clutch is engaged, can become worn.

The heater core in a vehicle resembles a small radiator. When you turn on the heat in your car, engine coolant is redirected from the engine to pass through the heater core before heading to the radiator. The fan in your car blows the air over the heater core to heat it up. The air then flows into your car, warming the passenger compartment. In the 1991 Honda Accord, the heater core is located inside of the heater assembly, which is located behind the dashboard of the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the battery to disconnect it from the engine. Drain all of the coolant from the cooling system into a sanitary container by removing the plug at the bottom of the radiator. Make sure the engine is cool before removing the coolant.

2

Remove the heater hoses going to the heater by loosening the clamps that are holding them on at the firewall. Remove the cable that is connected to the heater valve. Watch out for residual coolant that may be left inside of the hoses.

3

Take off the duct cover on the bottom of the heater assembly by prying out the snap-in screw with a flathead screwdriver. Remove the dashboard and the support pipe.

4

Remove the heater assembly by unbolting the four bolts holding it in and pulling it out. Take off the cover that is covering the heater core, and the clamp that is holding the heater core in place. Pull the heater core out of the heater assembly.

5

Insert the new heater core into the assembly and replace the clamp and heater core cover. Reinstall the heater assembly in the vehicle by placing it in its old spot and replacing the four bolts holding it in.

6

Reinstall the dashboard and the duct cover on the bottom of the heater assembly. Make sure you reconnect the heater hoses at the vehicles firewall and tighten their clamps accordingly. Replace the cable going to the heater valve.

7

Add the coolant back into the radiator making sure that it is full before starting the vehicle. Reconnect the battery wires and start the vehicle. Let the vehicle warm up to test the newly replaced heater core.

The crankshaft---a piece of a vehicle that is often called simply the "crank"---is a part of your Honda Civic that converts the reciprocating motion of your vehicles pistons into a rotating motion. Connected to the crank is a pulley that is used to transfer the motion of the crank into other parts of the car. A center bolt or screw holds this pulley in its proper location inside of your Honda Civics engine compartment. In order to replace or troubleshoot the crank pulley, you will need to remove this screw before you will be able to take off the pulley.

Instructions

1

Remove the battery cable from the negative---black---car battery terminal, using the proper size wrench for your vehicle.

2

Jack the car up and place jack stands under sections of the frame to securely support the Honda Civic off the ground.

3

Take off the splash shield located underneath the engine compartment by removing all necessary bolts. Ensure that the shield is well supported before you remove the last few bolts to keep the shield from falling on you or the ground.

4

Remove the drive belt from the Civics engine compartment.

5

Locate the crankshaft and crank pulley. Use a strap wrench wrapped in a shop towel or other soft cloth to lock the crank pulley in position.

6

Find the bolt in the center of the pulley and determine the proper size socket that should be used to turn the screw. Place the proper size socket on a breaker bar and turn the bolt counterclockwise to break it free.

7

Attach a ratchet to the socket or use a wrench to continue turning the crank pulley bolt until is is removed from its position.

The exhaust system in your 1997 Honda CR-V consists of four major sections: the front pipe, the catalytic converter, the resonator pipe and the muffler. The only repair that can be done on the exhaust of the CR-V is replacement of the sections or gaskets. In most cases, replacing the exhaust only involves the resonator and the muffler, but sometimes a new catalytic converter may also be required. The sections are joined with flanges and gaskets to allow easier removal and replacement of the sections. All the sections are available from a Honda dealer or though many auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your CR-V with a jack and support the vehicle on a set of jack stands. Locate the two mounting bolts that join the muffler to the resonator pipe and remove them with a wrench or socket and ratchet.

2

Locate the two rubber isolators/hangers at the rear of the muffler assembly and remove the muffler from them. The muffler has two metal hooks that slide into the hangers; slide them out and remove the muffler from under the vehicle.

3

Locate the flange at the front of the resonator pipe where it meets the catalytic converter. Remove the three bolts with a socket and ratchet or wrench. Remove the resonator assembly from the two rubber hangers that support it just as you did with the ones on the muffler. Remove the resonator from under the vehicle.

4

Inspect the catalytic converter to determine whether it will need replacing or not. If it does need replacing, removal is the same as the other sections, taking out the flange bolts and removing it from the car. In most cases, this is not required.

5

Raise the new resonator pipe into position under the vehicle and hang the assembly in the rubber hangers by inserting the support rods welded on the pipe into the holes in the hanger. Install a new gasket between the catalytic converter and the resonator flange, then install the mounting bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet or wrench.

6

Install the new muffler into the rubber hangers in the rear of the vehicle, again sliding the support rods into the holes in the rubber hanger. Raise the front of the muffler, then insert a new gasket between the two flanges and install the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet or a wrench.

7

Raise your CR-V off the jack stands then remove the stands from under the vehicle. Lower the CR-V to the ground carefully and remove the jack. Start the vehicle and listen for any exhaust leaks, especially where the flanges join. If you find any leaks, tighten the mounting bolts in those locations with a wrench until the leak stops.

Replacing the air conditioning filter, also known as a cabin air filter, in your 2002 Honda Accord is a little involved but only requires a single screwdriver to complete the repair. A replacement filter for the Accord is available from the dealer; however, aftermarket filters are also available from auto parts stores, which may be a little cheaper if you are working on a budget.

Instructions

1

Sit in the passengers seat of your Accord with the door open. Locate and remove the two locking tabs on either side of the glove compartment then remove the three mounting screws inside the box with a Phillips head screwdriver.

2

Pull the access panel below the glove compartment loose and remove the two screws below the glove compartment with the screwdriver. Pull the glove compartment out of the dash and set it aside.

3

Remove the screws from the ends of the metal bar with the screwdriver then remove the bar from the dash. Set it aside and locate the white filter behind it. Pull up the access door in front of the filter then pull the filter out of the housing. Discard the old filter.

4

Slide a new filter into the housing, slide the access door over the filter then position the metal bar onto the dash over the filter housing. Install the retaining screws and tighten them with the screwdriver.

5

Push the glove compartment assembly back into the dash and install the retaining screws under the box as well as the three screws on the inside of the box. Use the screwdriver to tighten all the screws until they are snug.

6

Depress the two locking tabs into place, one on either side of the glove compartment, then snap the lower access panel onto the dash. Close the glove compartment.

The Honda Accord used sealed-beam headlights in 1989. This was the last year the model would use sealed-beam headlights. The Accord was furnished with halogen composite headlights the following year. The 1989 Accord also featured "flip up" headlights, that model year being part of the only generation of the Accord to do so (1986-1989). Single sealed-beam headlights contained both internal elements to account for the low and high beams, so there was only one headlight per drivers and passenger side.

Instructions

1

Place the keys in the ignition and turn to "ACC" power (two clicks forward).

2

Raise the retractable headlights by switching the retractor switch (also commonly referred to by Honda Accord owners as a "keep-up switch") to the "On" position (not the headlight on switch).

3

Remove the four headlight trim retaining screws with the screwdriver. Two are on the top front of the trim and the other two are on the top of each side of the trim. Pivot the trim forward once the screws are removed to release the bottom retaining tab of the trim.

4

Remove the three headlight bezel retaining screws with the screwdriver. There are two at each bottom corner and one at the top just off-center. Remove the bezel.

5

Pull the headlight out by hand until access to the three-pronged wire harness plug can be obtained (connected directly to the back of the headlight). Disconnect the wire harness plug from the headlight.

6

Plug the wire harness plug into the replacement H6054 headlight making sure the DOT numbers and letters stamped on the headlight lens are right side up.

7

Insert the headlight into the headlight door and place the headlight bezel over the headlight (making sure the two screw tabs are on the bottom and the one screw tab is on the top). Replace the bezel retaining screws and tighten.

8

Test the headlight by turning on the headlight switch. Do not turn the retractor switch off. Be sure to test both high beam and low beam and then turn off the headlight switch.

9

Replace the headlight trim and retaining screws.

Replacing the catalytic converter on a 2001 Honda Odyssey will save money and can be done without special tools. The retaining nuts on the converter may be seized from temperatures they endure over time, so plan to spray them for several days with a good penetrating oil to help loosen them. A replacement converter for the Honda model is available from Honda dealers or larger auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the Odyssey with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension. Lower the jack, setting the van on the jack stands. Be sure the van is stable before sliding under it just behind the front tires.

2

Locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system; it should be just behind the head pipe. Look for the heat shields that wrap around the top and bottom of the converter and the two mounting bolts that hold the shields in place on either side. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and remove the heat shields from the converter.

3

Locate the three mounting studs on each end of the converter and remove the nuts from the studs with a wrench. Afterward, pull the rear pipe assembly back from the converter until it clears the studs. This allows you to push the pipe off to the side and out of the way.

4

Pull the converter back from the head pipe until the studs clear the mounting flange. Then lower the converter to the ground. Two brass gaskets are used to seal the converter to the flanges; make sure they come out as well.

5

Position a new converter under the van and raise it into position. Align the studs with the front flange and slide them together loosely. Then slide the rear pipe onto the studs at the back of the converter.

6

Tighten the retaining nuts onto all the studs a few turns just to hold the converter in place. Insert a new brass gasket into gap between the catalytic converter and the flange on each end. Torque all six retaining nuts to 25 pound-feet with a torque wrench and socket.

7

Install the heat shields around the new converter, install the retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Raise the front of the van off the jack stands with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the van onto the tires and remove the jack from under it.

The Honda K20A engine is part of the K series of four-cylinder, four-stroke engines released by the Honda Motor Company. These engines featured Hondas Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (i-VTEC) system, which offered continual variable camshaft phasing. The K series of engines first appeared in 2001.

Power

The K20A engine has a power output rating of 154. It generates 220 horsepower at 8,000 rpm and up to 152 pound-feet of torque when at 7,000 rpm. It features a 16-valve mode and a 12 valve economy mode. This engine uses a standard intake-to-combustion-to-exhaust engine cycle.

i-VTEC

The Honda i-VTEC system seeks to improve a standard internal combustion engine by increasing the volumetric efficiency. This system has two camshaft profiles, and it can automatically switch between these two profiles depending on the engines needs. The intake camshaft can move between 25 and 50 degrees when the vehicle is in motion. Your engines cam gear, controlled by a computer system, manages these changes. The actual phase change is affected by both the rpms and engine load. This system first appeared in the 2003 Honda Civic.

Components

The K20A i-VTEC system features a variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator, which controls the timing of the valve. This VTC actuator is actually managed by your oil pressure. It provides both continuous and dynamic valve timing. The intake manifold on this engine features intake runners that are all the same length, and the throttle body is larger than those in older models. The exhaust and intake ports are smooth, to improve airflow to the cylinders. The exhaust manifold is a 4-2-1 Tri-Y design.

Features

It comes with both manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and mass air flow (MAF) sensors, which ensure that the correct amount of airflow gets into the engine. The engine control unit (ECU) on this engine controls the MAF sensor. The K20A i-VTEC also comes with hydraulic power steering and Drive By Wire (DBW) throttle control.

Even if you have never heard the words "instrument cluster," you look at it every time you drive your 2001 Honda Civic. The instrument cluster includes the gas gauge, the speedometer, check engine lights and more. All of these gauges are part of a unit; so if any of the gauges are broken or the lights are burnt out, there is no removing that single component. The whole instrument cluster must be removed.

Instructions

1

Verify that both front tires are pointing straight ahead. Pop the Civics hood and remove the negative battery cable from the negative terminal with a wrench. Wait two to three minutes for any lingering or remaining power to deplete itself. This is a safety precaution to disarm the Civics airbag system.

2

Move the steering wheel to the lowest possible position if you own a Civic hatchback. Coupes and sedans do not have an adjustable steering wheel, unless one was installed as an aftermarket upgrade.

3

Remove any retaining screws from the steering wheel cover with a screwdriver then remove the steering wheel cover.

4

Push the instrument cover bezel back to disengage it from its retaining clips then pull the bezel forward. This trim panel is only a molded plastic covering that fits around and over the instrument cluster.

5

Remove the three retaining screws around the cluster. There will be one at the top and two at the bottom.

6

Pull the instrument cluster forward to expose the wiring behind it. There should be two wiring connectors. Undo these connectors then pull the instrument cluster out of the dashboard.

Everyone knows that brake lights are extremely important features of a vehicle. Theyre there to keep ourselves and other drivers safe, and when brake lights burn out or get damaged, its imperative that we replace them as soon as possible. Replacing the trunk brake light on a 1995 Honda Civic wont take you long, and all you will need for the job is a screwdriver and a new bulb.

Instructions

1

Open the trunk. Disconnect the electrical wires from the hold-down clip by sliding them out toward the center of the vehicle.

2

Detach the two screws from the bulb holder using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the bulb holder from the brake light assembly.

3

Verify which bulb needs to be replaced by having someone press the brake pedal while you look at the lights.

4

Push the bulb gently into the housing and turn it counterclockwise until it comes loose.

5

Insert the new bulb into the socket by pressing it in slightly and turning it clockwise until it locks into place. Test the new bulb before moving to the next step.

6

Reinstall the bulb holder assembly and reattach it with the two screws. Tighten the screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Place the wires back in their original location in the hold-down clip. Close the trunk.

The compact Honda Civic entered its seventh generation in 2001. The timing belt in these vehicles is mounted to the crankshaft and camshaft gears, or sprockets. The crankshaft drives the camshaft with the timing belt, requiring you to set the engine to the top dead center, or TDC, position when you replace the camshaft sprocket. This procedure is generally the same for most Honda cars made since 2001.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to ensure the engine doesnt start accidentally. Disconnect the valve cover and the covers for the timing belt.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench to align the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley with the TDC mark on the oil pump.

3

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise with a socket wrench to relieve the tension from the timing belt. Mark the timing belt with a white marker to indicate its direction of rotation, and detach the timing belt from its pulleys.

4

Remove the retaining bolt for the camshaft. Detach the camshaft sprocket and its key from the camshaft.

5

Install the new camshaft sprocket and its key to the camshaft. Tighten the retaining bolt to 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket wrench to align the TDC marks. Mount the timing belt to the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Set the tension on the timing belt with the tensioner, and tighten the tensioner bolt to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Install the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Connect the valve cover, and attach the negative battery cable.

Explore challenges with your Accord exhaust system by pinpointing the problem. Inspect key components from the engine to the tailpipe because exhaust system troubles could come from various places. Troubleshoot the exhaust system in a Honda Accord by acting on warning signs from system devices. Team up with a mechanic to apply these steps for most model years.

Instructions

1

Inspect the exhaust manifold and cylinder head because leaks usually occur where these devices connect. Thermal expansion and contraction cause this problem. Shear stress afflicts the exhaust manifold gasket every time you start your Accord, drive it or turn it off. With time leaks can develop.

2

See if you hear an intermittent hissing or popping sound while the engine is going. Furthermore, look for paint discolorations or burns near the exhaust ports on the cylinder head. Make certain to check your spark plug wires and boots for burns.

3

Examine the joining area between the exhaust manifold and head pipe. The back-and-forth motion of your engine caused by drive torque leads to movement at the joint where the head pipe meets the exhaust manifold. Hot gases that escaped this area could cause discoloration. This relates to the 2.4L and V6 engines.

4

Check exhaust pipes for damage. Use the large pliers to put pressure on the pipes. Replace any pipe that breaks, tears or gives under pressure. Run the engine when testing your system because leaks and other problems are more obvious with the engine going.

5

Listen for strange sounds coming from exhaust areas including your muffler. A buzzing noise that increases with acceleration could reflect exhaust system problems. A whistle sound or high-pitched hissing noise in the tailpipe could result from system restrictions. Get a mechanic to read your engine intake manifold vacuum. Low readings generally mean exhaust blockage.

When you see the SRS light on your 2002 Honda Accords dashboard, this is an indication that there is a problem with the airbag assembly. Considering this is a very important safety feature of your vehicle, you should have a mechanic look at it at once. Usually a mechanic will reset the light for you. But if the mechanic doesnt reset it, you can do it yourself at home. Or if you ever disconnect your battery, this can cause the SRS light to go on.

Instructions

1

Locate the fuse panel cover under the steering column. Open the cover by pulling down on it from the top.

2

Remove the yellow SRS plug from the fuse box.

3

Straighten the paper clip. Touch the end of the paper clip to each of the SRS terminals. Watch the SRS light on the dashboard until it goes out.

4

Remove the paper clip and put the SRS plug back in place. Close the fuse panel cover.

A Honda CRV comes with an On-Board Diagnostics computer that keeps track of all the mechanical functions of the vehicle. When you see the SRS light flash on your instrument panel, it is alerting you to a malfunction in the Supplemental Restraint System, i.e., the airbag system. You should have it examined and repaired immediately to prevent an accidental airbag deployment.

Instructions

1

Put on safety goggles and cloth work gloves.

2

Find the MES connector under the steering wheel near the fuse box. It is generally green or yellow and has a two-hole holder plug in its place. Remove the plug.

3

Strip the ends of both wires using a knife. Put one end of each of the wires into each of the holes of the MES connector.

4

Cross the other ends of each of the wires together so that they establish contact. This will short out the MES. Take care not to touch the exposed wire with any part of your body.

5

Put the key in the ignition and turn it on, but dont start the engine. Keep the ends of the wire touching while you do this. The SRS light will flash on, and then disappear. Separate the wires immediately. The SRS light should come on again.

6

Repeat Step 3 and the SRS light will blink twice and turn off. Unshort the two wires. This will cause the SRS light to blink twice.

7

Turn off the vehicle, wait a minute and start the engine. The SRS light will illuminate once more, and then go off for good.

When a vehicle breaks down, hiring a tow truck or finding a tow dolly is not always an option. Dinghy towing or flat towing a 1997 Honda Accord is challenging in the fact that it takes a large amount of communication between the front car driver, and the person in the Honda while the car is being towed. The 1997 Honda Accord is actually equipped with a tow loop or towing point underneath the front bumper, attached to the sub-frame of the vehicle. Communication is the key ingredient to making this project safe and doable.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers door of the vehicle you intend to tow the Accord with. Read the towing capacity on the factory door identification tag, to ensure that your towing vehicle has enough towing capacity for the job. The curb weight or dead weight of the 1997 Accord is 2,921-pounds. This means that the vehicle weighs nearly 1-1/2 tons. Make sure that your towing vehicle reads at least 3,000 pounds towing capacity before attempting the tow.

2

Pull the towing vehicle near the front of the Accord, and try to align the two vehicles as parallel as possible. You do not want to start the tow off by having to jerk the Honda sideways to move it.

3

Attach a 2-ton or greater capacity tow strap to the towing vehicle. If the vehicle has a hitch, loop the tow strap around the hitch and harness the hitch ball for your tow point. If no hitch is available, go beneath the rear of the car and attach the tow strap to the rear sub-frame of the towing vehicle. If you are using a tow chain, loop the chain around the hitch ball or sub-frame, then attach the hook to the chain itself.

4

Kneel near the front bumper of the Accord, and visually locate the towing point or loop on the front of the car. Insert the tow strap through the hole of the loop, then perform a slip knot to tie the strap onto the loop. If you do not know how to tie a slip knot, please see the "Tips" section of this article for instructions. If you are using a tow chain, simply hook the towing hook from the chain directly onto the Hondas towing loop.

5

Communicate through brake-lights flashes. Instruct the driver that a double flash of the brake lights means gentle slowing of both vehicles is needed, and three flashes of the brake lights means slowing to a complete stop. Keep the tension in the strap or chain between both vehicles, or the towing apparatus could wind up wrapped up in the drive path of the Accord. Flash the brake lights by tapping on the brake pedal before actual braking.

6

Turn the ignition key on the Accord to the "II" or accessories position. This will unlock the transmission shift lever and the steering wheel. Make your route as straight as possible so that you keep the braking and turns to a minimum. Braking and turning increases the risk of the tow chain or strap being damaged. Depress the brake pedal in the Honda, and shift into "N" or neutral gear.

7

Pull the towing vehicle forward gently to remove the slack from the strap or chain. Keep one foot on the brake so that you do not jerk the Honda suddenly. When the slack is out of the line, you will feel a slight jolt in both vehicles. Driver of the towing vehicle, wave your hand out of the window to signal that you are starting forward.

8

Drive at a speed of no more than 15 miles per hour. This allows for ample time to stop both vehicles when necessary. The driver of the Accord should use the brakes gently to keep the tension on the strap. Remember that your job is to steer the Honda, stop the Honda, and make sure the strap does not end up under the Honda. Tow the vehicle to its destination safely and slowly.

The Honda Pilot is a crossover sport-utility vehicle manufactured by Honda since 2003 and saw a significant redesign in 2009. While Honda has a reputation for high quality cars, the Pilot has had some known problems, which, if necessary, can be repaired by a Honda factory shop or someone specializing in Japanese imports.

Common Problems

Difficulty shifting or noisy gear changes are some of the more well-known defects of older model pilots and are due to a faulty transmission. An electronic diagnostic can identify the problem. There have also been a number of issues with electrical accessories within the vehicle such as the power windows and the radio. The electrical issues arise from the ignition and may result in difficulty starting the vehicle. Other complaints have centered around the Pilots lack of power and poor fuel economy which stem from the 2009 redesign in which the same engine was used in a heavier vehicle.

Recalls

The Pilot has seen a number of recalls since its release due to a number of issues including unsafe bike racks, leaking fuel and improperly built steering columns. The 2003 model experienced the greatest number of problems.

Getting Help

If your Honda Pilot is having problems which are related to the recall notices, the dealer where it was purchased should be able to help if it is within the recall period or still under warranty. A dealer shop should be able to help with any problems you are experiencing. Alternatively, a Honda-certified mechanic should be consulted. For basic maintenance, the Honda Pilot manual is downloadable.