Repair 7

The Isuzu Rodeo is a pickup truck manufactured from 1988 to 2002. A common engine for the 2001 model is a four-cylinder, 2.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft (See Reference 1) (See Reference 2) . This engine requires a timing belt to keep the crankshaft and camshaft synchronized. The most important part of replacing the timing belt is ensuring that you keep the crankshaft and camshaft in the correct position during the procedure.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to ensure you dont inadvertently start the engine.

2

Turn the drive belt adjuster clockwise with a box-end wrench to relieve the tension on the the drive belt. Remove the drive belt.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the chassis wiring harness in the left rear quadrant of the engine compartment.

4

Disconnect the bolts that attach the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with a socket wrench, and remove the pulley.

5

Remove the retaining nut that attaches the engine harness cover to the front of the engine, and detach the cover.

6

Remove the cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks on the crankshaft with the timing marks on the crankshaft housing.

7

Disconnect the adjusting bolt for the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner from the engine. Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft.

Installation

8

Connect the timing belt tensioner and tighten the adjusting bolt by hand. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing marks if necessary.

9

Place a "J-43037" tool between the intake sprocket and exhaust sprocket of the camshaft to hold the camshaft in place while you install the timing belt.

10

Install the new timing belt while keeping the tension side of the belt taut. Turn the adjusting lever on the timing belt tensioner clockwise until the pointer on the tensioner moves to the center of the "V" notch on the tensioner housing.

11

Tighten the adjuster bolt for the timing belt tensioner to 18 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

12

Replace the front cover for the timing belt and tighten its mounting bolts to 53 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connectors for the engine harness. Connect the crankshaft pulley and torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs.

13

Install the drive belt and turn the drive belt adjuster counterclockwise to apply tension to the drive belt. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The alarm in your 2001 Grand Cherokee can be annoying if you are trying to make any kind of repair to your vehicle. This alarm is designed to be a deterrent to auto theft, but will go off during the repair process. If you want to disable the car alarm, you have a couple of options -- either removing the fuse for the alarm or removing the power supply from your alarm. When you take the power away from the alarm, you will be able to make your repair in peace.

Instructions

Disconnecting The Battery

1

Locate the hood release latch on the front of the Grand Cherokee and open the hood.

2

Locate the negative terminal on the Cherokees battery. This terminal has a -- sign next to it.

3

Loosen the terminal with a pair of channel locks.

4

Remove the terminal from the Cherokees battery to disable the car alarm.

Removing The Fuse

5

Go to the drivers side of the Cherokee and locate the fuse box to the left under the steering wheel.

6

Pry open the fuse box with your fingers.

7

Consult your user manual to get the location of the alarm fuse.

8

Remove the alarm fuse from the fuse box to disable the car alarm with the fuse puller in your fuse box.

The 2001 Chrysler Town & Country experienced a slight generational redesign that changed the procedure on how to repair and replace side mirrors from its older versions. In fact, it simplified the procedure, making the entire task able to be performed from the outside. Most cars require getting to the side mirror mounting hardware from inside the door panel or a small trim sail covering the interior side of the side mirror.

Instructions

1

Ensure the engine is off and the keys are not in the ignition. Apply the parking brake.

2

Wedge the small screwdriver on the upper point of the triangular sail of the mirror. Gently pry the plastic sail outward and then unsnap it from the mirror.

3

Open the door wide to locate the bottom retaining screw of the mirror. It is hidden by the door frame (at the bottom of the mirror housing) when the door is closed. Remove the screw with the T27 Torx-head screwdriver. Close the door.

4

Remove the other two screws (visible from the removal of the trim sail). Support the mirror with one hand when removing the last screw so it does not fall against the door or fender and scratch the paint.

5

Remove the manual mirror or for the powered mirror, gently pull the wire harness up through the access hole until the plug connection can be accessed. Press the locking clip on the harness to disconnect the mirrors wire from the wire harness plug.

6

Reverse the procedure to reinstall the replacement mirror, powered or manual respectively. Plug the powered mirror harness in first and feed it back through the access hole. Replace the upper retaining screws of the mirror first and open the door again to replace the bottom screw. Snap the trim sail back on to complete the job.

The 2001 Kia Rio is a hatchback sedan sought after because of its fuel economy. If you have problems with your Rio after it rains, you can check for a few problems before taking it to a Kia service shop. The most common issues include the spark plug, the distribution cap and battery corrosion. You can check for these problems yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of how the Rio works.

Instructions

1

Open the Rios hood, and locate the spark plug housing on the side of the engine. Use your fingers to pull the spark plug out of the housing. Water can seep into the spark plug and cause arcing if it has worn. Replace the spark plug to fix this problem.

2

Check your distribution cap, found on the right side of your engine. Remove the bolts holding the distributor cap on the engine using a ratchet, and pull the distributor cap from the engine block. Feel the inside of the distributor cap for any signs of moisture. Replace the cap if you do find moisture.

3

Locate the battery terminals. Look for signs of corrosion, and use a pair of pliers to remove the terminals from the battery. Use a can of soda and a wire brush to clean the terminals. Replace the terminals on the battery, and try to restart the car.

You can retrieve and rest the trouble codes for your 2001 Dodge Ram right from your home garage, saving yourself time and money. The Ram comes standard with an On-Board Diagnostics II computer -- OBD II -- that retrieves and stores all trouble codes sent to it from sensors within the vehicle. When these sensors detect a problem, they send a trouble code to the computer, which lights up warning or service lights on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these trouble codes using an OBD II code scanner. You can buy one at many auto-parts retailers.

Instructions

1

Find the diagnostic port on the drivers side dashboard under the steering column. It will be the same size and shape as the connective end of the OBD II code scanner. Plug the code scanner into this diagnostic port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position. Dont start the engine. This will power on the code scanner.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command or something similar within the code scanners menu. Wait while the code scanner retrieves the codes from the computer. Write the alphanumeric codes it displays on a piece of paper.

4

Look up the codes in the scanners manual. Unplug the scanner and have the car serviced or repaired based on the trouble codes.

5

Repeat steps 1 and 2. Select "Delete Codes." Wait while the scanner responds to the command. You will know it has finished if you see the message "Command Sent" on the code scanner or if the main menu has reappeared on the code scanner. When the process is complete, unplug the scanner from the port.

6

Start the engine and verify on the instrument panel that all warning and service lights have shut off.

The Honda Civic has been around for decades, bringing style, comfort and performance to the cost-conscious consumer. Honda has been offering fog lights as either an option or standard on all model Civics for years. If you own a 2001 model year Honda you may need to replace the installed fog lights because of an accident, wear and tear of an old vehicle, or simply because youd like to personalize the look of your car. Rest assured this is an easy job to do at home.

Instructions

1

Locate a flat level surface with enough light. This could be a garage, driveway or parking lot. Park your Civic there, shut off the engine and apply the parking brake so that the car is safe to crawl under. Let the engine bay cool to the touch before starting work.

2

Lay an old blanket under the front end of your 2001 Honda Civic. Then lie down and look underneath the car at the spot directly behind the drivers side fog light. Notice the plastic dust shield. Use a screwdriver to pry this off and set it aside.

3

Grab hold of the wiring harness that connects the Civics power system to the fog light socket. Pull this free from the socket. Using a wrench, remove the three mounting bolts that attach the light assembly to the Civics bumper.

4

Slide the old fog light assembly out. Slide in the aftermarket light in its place. Lock in place with the mounting bolts. Plug the wiring harness into the new socket. Snap the dust cover back on. Repeat this process for the remaining fog light.

You can adjust the rear brakes on your 2001 GMC Safari right in your home garage. This adjustment should be done periodically to lengthen the life of your rear brakes, to improve brake function, and to restore the function of the parking brake. This adjustment can be done in less than an hour and requires only a few basic tools that can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer. The adjustment procedure basically reduces the gap between the shoes and the drums, resulting in a higher brake pedal height and faster braking times.

Instructions

1

Put on work gloves and safety goggles.

2

Position two wheel chocks in front of each front wheel and two wheel chocks behind each front wheel to keep the car from moving while you work on it.

3

Put the floor jack under the rear differential and raise up the Safari until its higher than the jack stands. Slide the jack stands under the vehicles axle tubes next to each of the rear wheels. Lower your 2001 GMC Safari onto the jack stands.

4

Look for a rubber plug in the backing plate behind the wheel. Remove the plug.

5

Insert a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the star-shaped adjuster upward at the same time spin the rear wheel in a forward motion. Keep spinning the wheel and rotating the adjuster until you feel a slight drag on the wheel. Remove the screwdriver and reinsert the plug. Repeat this procedure for the other rear wheel.

6

Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and move them out of the way. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the wheel chocks. Take the GMC for a test drive to make sure the brake pedal height is higher and that the parking brake is tighter, clicking a maximum of six notches when you engage it.

Removing the battery from your PT Cruiser requires removal of the air cleaner assembly before you can access the retaining bolt on the battery-retaining bracket. The air cleaner and the battery sit on the drivers side of the engine compartment, one behind the other. Removing the old battery may be necessary if the battery is not holding a charge and it needs to be tested or if you need to access parts or components below the battery and battery tray.

Instructions

1

Locate the air cleaner housing just behind the battery on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Unsnap the two clips that secure the top to the bottom of the assembly and lift the top off. Set it aside for now.

2

Lift the air cleaner element out of the lower portion of the air cleaner assembly. Set it aside, then grasp the side of the lower assembly, pull it straight up and remove it from the engine compartment.

3

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal, using a wrench to loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end, and lift it off the terminal. Isolate it from the battery terminals, then remove the positive cable in the same way.

4

Locate the retaining bolt on the upper-rear of the battery. Remove the bolt with a wrench, then lift the retaining bracket off the battery. Lift the battery out of the car.

The Chrysler Sebring is a series of mid-size cars in production since 1995. The 2001 model was the first of the second generation Sebrings, which was produced until 2005. The 2001 Chrysler Sebring has a mechanical water pump, like other modern vehicles. The engine drives the water pump with a belt, which circulates a mixture of water and antifreeze around the engine. The water pump in a 2001 Chrysler Sebring is attached to the front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit overnight to ensure the coolant is not hot. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal, so you dont accidentally start the engine.

2

Place a sealable container under the radiator and remove the drain plug for the radiator. Allow the entire contents of the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the drain plug and seal the container of coolant.

3

Use the socket wrench to remove the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.

4

Use the socket wrench to disconnect the brace for the alternator. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and disconnect the water pump. Discard the O-ring for the water pump.

5

Clean the O-ring mating surfaces on the water pump and the engine block with a shop towel to remove any remaining material from the O-ring. Place the new O-ring into position on the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 117 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the brace for the alternator and tighten its mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. Install the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.

6

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Refill the cooling system and start the engine. Check for leaks in the cooling system and repair as necessary.

GMC introduced the Yukon in 1992, and the Yukon Denali in 1999. The 2001 GMC Yukon was available with a 4.6-liter V-8 engine or a 5.3-liter V-8 engine in the base model SLE and SLT. The Denali was given a 6.0-liter V-8 engine from the factory. The oil in the 2001 Yukon should be changed every three months or 3,000 miles, or as indicated by the "Oil Life" indicator built into the instrument cluster. The type (not weight) of oil you use should depend on your driving styles and how many miles are on the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Lift the front of the Yukon with a jack. Place jack stands beneath the front subframe rails. Lower the truck onto the jack stands.

2

Lay beneath the front of the truck and slide yourself in a position to access the rear of the oil pan. The oil pan is the cast aluminum pan directly beneath the engine. Slide a drain pan beneath the oil pan.

3

Loosen the oil drain plug with an open-end wrench. Turn the drain plug out with your fingers. Allow the oil to drain into the drain pan for no less than three minutes. Insert the drain plug back into the oil pan. Tighten the plug to 25 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

4

Move the drain pan underneath the oil filter. The filter is located at the rear drivers side of the oil pan. Remove the filter with a filter wrench, then dispose of it into the drain pan. Wipe the filter mating surface on the engine with a clean rag. Remove any pieces of old gasket.

5

Open a fresh bottle of oil. Dip your finger tip in the bottle, then rub the fresh oil onto the gasket of the new oil filter. Thread new oil filter onto the threaded tube at the rear of the oil pan. Once the gasket makes contact, tighten the filter 3/4 turn more. Do not over-tighten it.

6

Lower the Yukon to the ground. Remove the oil fill cap on the engine. Add 6-quarts of 5w30 motor oil to the engine. Replace the oil fill cap when you are finished.

7

Start the engine and immediately inspect underneath the car for any leaks. Allow the engine to run for approximately 15 seconds, and turn it off. Wait two minutes for the oil to settle into the oil pan, and check the level with the dipstick. Add oil as needed to bring the level to the "Full" mark.

Replacing the catalytic converter on a 2001 Honda Odyssey will save money and can be done without special tools. The retaining nuts on the converter may be seized from temperatures they endure over time, so plan to spray them for several days with a good penetrating oil to help loosen them. A replacement converter for the Honda model is available from Honda dealers or larger auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the Odyssey with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension. Lower the jack, setting the van on the jack stands. Be sure the van is stable before sliding under it just behind the front tires.

2

Locate the catalytic converter in the exhaust system; it should be just behind the head pipe. Look for the heat shields that wrap around the top and bottom of the converter and the two mounting bolts that hold the shields in place on either side. Remove the bolts with a socket and ratchet and remove the heat shields from the converter.

3

Locate the three mounting studs on each end of the converter and remove the nuts from the studs with a wrench. Afterward, pull the rear pipe assembly back from the converter until it clears the studs. This allows you to push the pipe off to the side and out of the way.

4

Pull the converter back from the head pipe until the studs clear the mounting flange. Then lower the converter to the ground. Two brass gaskets are used to seal the converter to the flanges; make sure they come out as well.

5

Position a new converter under the van and raise it into position. Align the studs with the front flange and slide them together loosely. Then slide the rear pipe onto the studs at the back of the converter.

6

Tighten the retaining nuts onto all the studs a few turns just to hold the converter in place. Insert a new brass gasket into gap between the catalytic converter and the flange on each end. Torque all six retaining nuts to 25 pound-feet with a torque wrench and socket.

7

Install the heat shields around the new converter, install the retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Raise the front of the van off the jack stands with a jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the van onto the tires and remove the jack from under it.

Even if you have never heard the words "instrument cluster," you look at it every time you drive your 2001 Honda Civic. The instrument cluster includes the gas gauge, the speedometer, check engine lights and more. All of these gauges are part of a unit; so if any of the gauges are broken or the lights are burnt out, there is no removing that single component. The whole instrument cluster must be removed.

Instructions

1

Verify that both front tires are pointing straight ahead. Pop the Civics hood and remove the negative battery cable from the negative terminal with a wrench. Wait two to three minutes for any lingering or remaining power to deplete itself. This is a safety precaution to disarm the Civics airbag system.

2

Move the steering wheel to the lowest possible position if you own a Civic hatchback. Coupes and sedans do not have an adjustable steering wheel, unless one was installed as an aftermarket upgrade.

3

Remove any retaining screws from the steering wheel cover with a screwdriver then remove the steering wheel cover.

4

Push the instrument cover bezel back to disengage it from its retaining clips then pull the bezel forward. This trim panel is only a molded plastic covering that fits around and over the instrument cluster.

5

Remove the three retaining screws around the cluster. There will be one at the top and two at the bottom.

6

Pull the instrument cluster forward to expose the wiring behind it. There should be two wiring connectors. Undo these connectors then pull the instrument cluster out of the dashboard.

A car battery stores electrical current generated by the alternator. If it is not working correctly or has reached the end of its life span, which typically is to to three years, it must be replaced. The process for changing a battery in a 2001 Ford Ranger requires the use of basic tools.

Instructions

1

Open the 2001 Ford Ranger hood. Locate the battery at the front of the engine on the right side. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal by loosing the connection with the adjustable wrench. Disconnect the positive (red) terminal the same way.

2

Disconnect the battery tie-down using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Remove the battery from the battery tray by lifting it up and out. Put the used battery to one side.

3

Install the replacement battery by placing it into the battery tray, in the same orientation as the original battery, with the terminals in identical locations. Using the ratchet and socket, tighten the battery tie-down to hold the battery in place.

4

Attach the positive terminal of the battery to the positive battery cable using the adjustable wrench. Do the same for the negative terminal. Turn on the ignition of the 2001 Ford Ranger. Allow the truck to run for at least 10 minutes to assess whether the battery is functioning properly.

As a theft deterrent system, Mitsubishi programs its car radios with a 4-digit code that locks the audio system when tampered with. Trouble is that sometimes the system locks up even on legitimate owners, leaving them without the ability to play compact discs or use the radio.



If you see a prompt that reads "Code," dont sweat it, the user manual should contain a reset code. If no manual is available, Mitsubishi hosts a website which will send you the code as long as you have your vehicles VIN and the radios model and serial numbers.

Instructions

Locate and reset the lock code

1

Locate 2001 your original Galant owners manual. Note that it must be the one that came with your vehicle; replacement manuals will not have the appropriate code.

2

Insert key into ignition and set to "ON" or "RUN" position. Turn on radio.

3

Enter 4-digit code that appears in owners manual by depressing preset buttons on the radio deck.

The GMC Jimmy is a mid-size sport utility vehicle made by General Motors from 1983 to 2005. The 2001 model is a second generation Jimmy, which has a 6-cylinder 4.3-liter engine with sequential fuel injection. This type of fuel injection uses a high-pressure fuel system requiring an electric fuel pump. The fuel pump in the 2001 GMC Jimmy is located within the fuel tank, so you must disconnect the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the fuel tank pressure. Wrap a shop rag around the pressure fitting on the inlet fuel pipe and install a pressure gauge to the pressure fitting. Place the bleed hose of the pressure gauge into a gasoline container and open the valve for the pressure gauge. Allow the fuel in the fuel system to drain into the gasoline container and disconnect the pressure gauge from the pressure fitting.

2

Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container with a hose. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack and disconnect the filler neck for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Detach the skid shield and retaining straps from the fuel tank. Remove the electrical connections and fuel lines from the fuel pump. Disconnect the the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench and lower it from the vehicle with the floor jack.

3

Turn the locking ring on the fuel sending assembly counterclockwise with a spanner wrench. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel sending assembly from the fuel tank. Separate the fuel pump from the fuel sending assembly.

4

Replace the seal around the opening in the fuel tank. Install the new fuel pump by performing steps two and three in reverse order. Tighten the mounting bolts for the fuel tank to 33 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, start the engine and check the fuel system for leaks.

In 2001, Toyota Camrys were manufactured with multiple engine options. In base form, the Camry came equipped with the 2.2-liter DOHC inline four-cylinder engine which offered buyers excellent fuel economy at a reasonable price. In upgraded form, the Camry came equipped with a more powerful 3.0-liter DOHC V6 that provided more power with slightly increased price tag. The camshafts in each engine are monitored by a camshaft position sensor that records the position of the camshafts in relation to the crankshaft. The positional information is used by the PCM to alter ignition timing and ensure that the engine runs smoothly. A faulty camshaft sensor can cause symptoms such as stalling, sputtering, and lack of power. Checking the resistance on camshaft sensor terminals and comparing that to a specified value is the proper way to determine the whether the camshaft sensor is operating properly.

Instructions

2.2-Liter Engine

1

Open the hood and locate the camshaft position sensor. It is bolted to the lower-right side of the valve cover assembly, on the front side of the engine block. Its a small black sensor with a two-wire connector attached to it.

2

Disconnect the sensors electrical connector by depressing the locking tab on the connector and pulling it away from the sensor.

3

Measure the resistance across the camshaft sensors pin terminals with a digital multimeter.

4

Compare the resistance value on the digital multimeter to the specified value. The specified resistance value for the 2.2-liter engine is 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensors resistance value is outside these parameters then the sensor must be replaced.

3.0-Liter Engine

5

Open the hood and locate both camshaft position sensors; in the V6 engine there are twoone in each cylinder head. The sensor itself is located on the back rear corner of each cylinder head. It is black, just like the sensor for the 2.2-liter engine and has the same two-wire connector attached to it.

6

Disconnect the electrical connectors on each sensor by depressing the locking tab and pulling the sensor connector off of the sensors connector flange.

7

Measure the resistance across each sensors two pin terminals and record that value on a piece of paper.

8

Compare the resistance value against the specified values for the sensors. If the sensor is made by DENSO, the resistance should fall between 835 to 1,400 Ohms when cold and 1,060 to 1645 Ohms when hot. If the sensor is made by Wabash, the resistance should fall between 1,690 to 2,560 Ohms when cold and 2,145 to 3,010 Ohms when hot. The sensor should have a stamping mark on the inside of the plastic connecting flange indicating which company manufactured it. If the sensor falls outside of these specified values then it is faulty.

Its almost as though theyre trying to irritate their parents. Back when it debuted, gearheads regularly referred to the Impala in reverent tones as "the SS," or "the 409." Later "enthusiasts," though, came to think of the Impalas chrome emblem as depicting a leaping donkey, and the "Donk" was born. And so it was that heathens world-wide devised a whole new way to irritate Mom and Dad.

Pads

As of 2013, youre looking at about $15 for the cheapest front pads, and the same for the rear. Add in $15 for ancillary items like brake fluid, anti-squeal lubricant and brake cleaner, and you can expect to spend about $45 minimum in parts to replace the pads on all four wheels. some of the better pads can run upward of $50 per set, for a total of about $115 for the best brake pad replacement possible.

Rotors

The cheapest front rotors are about $37 a piece, and the upgraded "severe duty" name-brand front rotors are about $50; dimensionally and in terms of materials, the two are identical, and the cheaper rotor is actually a bit lighter. The cheapest rear rotors are about $25 a piece, and 5 pounds lighter each than the $40 slotted rotor, which will last longer and run cooler. The most expensive rear rotor is about $55, but doesnt offer any real advantages over the $25 rotor. So, add between $124 and $210 for four new rotors, depending on the units you choose.

Shop Estimates

Shops typically determine labor by "book time," or the number of hours the shop manual says the job should take. They multiply those "book hours" by the shops per-hour labor rate, which as of 2013 is about $40 to $65 for a decent independent mechanic. Book time for the front pads is 1.2 for both sides, and 1.6 hours for the rear; which means $50 to $80 for the front pads, and $64 to $104 for the rear. Thats about $115 to $184 for labor. Suggestion: If youve got a floor jack and basic hand tools, just save yourself the money and do this simple, DIY job yourself.

The 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 came with either a 4.3-liter six-cylinder, 4.8-liter eight-cylinder or a 5.3-liter eight-cylinder engine. The six cylinder base model was offered with a five-speed manual transmission, but the extended cab and other models equipped with an eight-cylinder only included a four-speed automatic transmission; with or without four-wheel drive. Despite the many differences and options available all of them have a fuel tank pressure sensor that is used to detect the amount of pressure or lack there of. Code P0452 is directly related to this sensor, but the reason your Silverado is displaying this trouble code can vary and will require some inspection.

Fuel Pressure Sensor Operation

The fuel pressure sensor is connected to the powertrain control module or PCM via a five volt reference signal and a ground. The sensor relays a voltage back to the PCM in relation to the amount of pressure inside the gas tank and is used to detect leaks in the evaporative emissions system. A high voltage return signal indicates tank pressure is low and a lower voltage return signal indicates a higher tank pressure.

The Trouble Code

Code P0452 is set anytime the ignition is on and the return voltage signal is less than .1-volts for longer than five seconds. The code will not be set until the PCM test fails twice consecutively when the ignition is cycled. In general code P0452 indicates an evaporative system leak somewhere in the system or a failure with the fuel pressure sensor. Double check your diagnostic trouble codes before attempting diagnoses because if P1639 was also set with P0452 there is a short to ground in the 5-volt reference circuit inside the PCM, requiring the PCM be replaced.

Checking The Fuel Pressure Sensor

The fuel pressure sensor on your Silverado is connected to the fuel pump module and is located inside the tank; however, the harness connector extends upward and is outside of the fuel tank. There are three wires connecting the PCM to the sensor; grey is for the five volt reference signal, black is the pcm connected ground and dark green is for the signal sent back to the PCM. First and foremost check the wiring harness from the sensor connector to the PCM for any damage and fix as necessary. Disconnect the pressure sensor harness and set your digital multimeter to the volts setting. Turn the ignition key to the on position and probe the gray wire and black wire, you should receive five volts in this case the PCM is sending the proper signal and is not at fault. Connect the harness to the sensor and probe the dark green wire with the positive multimeter probe and direct the negative to a known good ground. ; if there is no reference signal the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced. If the signal is between .1 and 5 volts examine the harness up to the PCM for a break in the circuit.

Replacing the Sensor

Replacing the sensor will require draining the fuel tank and lowering the tank from the vehicle. As always remember to relieve fuel system pressure by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a screwdriver wrapped in a shop towel. Disconnect all fuel tank lines, connectors and vacuum lines, then remove the tank from under the vehicle. Remove the fuel pump lock ring and remove the module. Remove the screw for the sensor, it is located just above the electrical pump. Install the new sensor and set the harness into place. Lower the module into the tank and replace the lock ring gasket. Tighten the fuel tank straps to 30 foot-pounds alternating back and forth. Use a scan tool to clear any trouble codes before driving the vehicle.

The 2001 Malibu cam relatively well-equipped with standard features. The mid-sized sedan came with: air conditioning, keyless entry, power door locks and a passive ignition disabling system. The passive ignition disabling system, known as Passlock, prevented the Malibu from starting without a coded key. When the Passlock system detects a fault in the security system, a "Theft System" light stays lit on the instrument cluster.

Incorrectly Coded Key

The Passlock system on the 2001 Malibu uses a key with a small magnet on it. This magnet passes a sensor inside the ignition tumbler, and the sensor reads the code stored in the magnet. If the codes do not match, due to improper coding or a failing key, the Theft System light stays on and the vehicle will not start.

Failed Ignition Tumbler

Over time, the wires inside the Passlock ignition tumbler can wear out and create a short. If the computer senses a short-to-ground in the wiring of the Passlock system, it triggers a "Security on" code that illuminates the "Theft System" light until you repair the problem.

Failed Instrument Cluster

As your 2001 Malibu ages, water and other debris can cause damage to the circuitry of the instrument cluster. If the instrument cluster shorts out, it is common for the "Theft System" light to illuminate.

Control Module Failure

The 2001 Malibus body control module and powertrain control module work together to determine when the Passlock system is to allow the car to start. When one of these two components fail or are incorrectly programmed, the "Theft System" light illuminates and the Malibu will not start.

Saab is a Swedish car manufacturer owned by Spyker Cars NV. The 2001 models include the 9-3 and 9-5, which are both executive cars. The most common engine for the 2001 SAAB is a 4-cylinder 2.0-liter turbocharged engine. The procedure for replacing the water pump is generally the same for all engines. The replacement of the water pump in a 2001 SAAB requires the removal of several major components in the engine compartment.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent you from starting the engine. Remove the pressure cap for the expansion coolant tank. Place a drain pan under the drain hole for the radiator and remove the radiator drain plug. Let the coolant drain into the drain pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the center deflector on the engine. Disconnect the right front wheel and the inner fender panel. Detach the electrical connector and hoses for the expansion tank, then remove the expansion coolant tank.

3

Lock the tensioner for the drive belt by pulling firmly on the belt. Remove the belts for the air-conditioning compressor and water pump with a socket wrench. Place a shop towel over the cross member of the upper radiator and the engine oil cooler to protect them from contamination during the water pump replacement.

4

Detach the electrical connector for the air conditioning compressor and remove the air conditioning compressor with a socket wrench. Disconnect the bracket for the air conditioning compressor and disconnect the hoses on the water pump. Detach the wire for the oxygen sensor on the water pump. Disconnect the coolant pipes to the turbocharger and water pump.

5

Remove the bolts that attach the water pump to the timing cover with a socket wrench. Pry the water pump from its sleeve on the cylinder block and pry around the water pump to dislodge it from the sleeve. Disconnect the pulley for the water pump and remove the water pump from its housing.

6

Install the new water pump by performing steps 2 through 5 in reverse order. Tighten the bolts for the water pump pulley to 72 inch pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 15 foot pounds.

7

Fill the radiator with coolant. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for leaks in the cooling system.