Repair 7

Ford debuted its Mustang in 1965. Just three years later, it introduced a new engine, the so-called 302, or 5.0 liter V8 engine, a member of Fords Windsor engine family. This performance-oriented engine was available until the end of the 1970s.

History

Ford introduced the 5.0 liter, or 302-cubic-inch, engine in 1968 in anticipation of emissions standards established by the federal government in the 1970s. It remained an available engine in the Mustang until 1973. It was reinstated in 1975 and ended its run in Mustangs in 1979.

Cylinder Head to Engine Block

The bolts joining the cylinder head and the engine block require three distinct applications of torque executed in a helical sequence. The bolts require first 45 foot-pounds of torque, then 55 foot-pounds and finally 70 foot-pounds of torque. You should wait about 15 minutes between each step to allow the bolts to settle and stretch.

Other Specifications

The intake manifold bolts to the cylinder head in three stages: first to 12 foot-pounds, second to 20 foot-pounds, and third to 22 foot-pounds of torque. In 5.0 liter engines manufactured in 1969 and 1970, the rocker arm stud bolts to the cylinder head with 70 foot-pounds of torque. The valve cover bolts to the cylinder head with 4 foot-pounds of torque.

The Ford Mustang is an American muscle car which has been in continuous production since 1964. The 1993 Mustang GT was the last year of the third generation Mustangs which began production in 1979. This model has an eight-cylinder 5.0-liter engine with multi-port fuel injection. Each cylinder has its own injector, which delivers fuel to the cylinder in a precise sequence. You can access the fuel injectors from the engine compartment, where they are located on top of the engine.

Instructions

1

Remove the cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Attach fuel pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the pressure relief valve on the fuel supply manifold. Open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system.

2

Remove the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Disconnect the electrical wiring harness for the fuel injectors. Release the retaining clips for the fuel lines to the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the fuel lines.

3

Remove the retaining bolts for the fuel supply manifold and disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel injectors by lifting the fuel rail and gently rocking it back and forth. Disconnect the fuel injectors from the intake manifold in the same manner.

4

Remove the O-rings from the fuel injectors, and replace them if they show signs of damage. Lubricate the O-rings with engine oil and place them onto the new fuel injectors. Install the fuel rail and fuel injectors to the intake manifold. Ensure the O-rings are properly seated by pushing down on the fuel rail.

5

Tighten the retaining bolts for the fuel rail assembly to between 15 and 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the fuel lines to the fuel supply manifold and attach the electrical wiring harness for the fuel injector. Install the upper intake manifold with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The 1993 Ford Mustang is a third generation of the car, which was in production from 1979 to 1993. The procedure for replacing the ignition coil in a 93 Mustang depends primarily on the engine. The engine is typically an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter Windsor engine. The ignition coil converts the 12 volts from the battery into the thousands of volts the spark plugs need to produce a spark. The ignition coil in a 1993 Mustang is located on the front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

2

Disconnect the connector for the electrical harness on the ignition coil. Depress the locking tabs on the spark plug wires to detach the wires from the spark plug boot of the ignition coil.

3

Remove the mounting screws for the ignition coil with a socket wrench. Disconnect the ignition coil from the engine.

4

Install the new ignition coil and tighten its retaining screws to between 40 and 62 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Apply dielectric compound into the spark plug boots to maximize the electrical contact between the wires and boots. Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plug boot on the ignition coil.

5

Attach the electrical connector for the ignition coils wiring harness. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The PCV valve on the 1988 Ford Mustang engines is responsible for recycling unburned gas from the crankcase back to the combustion chamber. PVC is defined as positive crankcase ventilation. The PVC valve is considered an emissions component because it prevents the unburned gas from blowing out into the air. The valve has a pressure release ball inside that opens and closes due to pressure from the crankcase. Once a high amount of pressure from the unburned gas pushes against the pressure release ball, the ball will open and release the unburned gas into the combustion chamber.

Instructions

1

Park the 1988 Ford Mustang and open the hood. Set the parking brake to prevent the car from rolling away as you repair it.

2

Locate the silver colored L-shaped PCV valve, located on the valve cover closest to the air filter housing. The PCV valve is inserted into a rubber grommet on top of the valve cover. There are two plastic tubes on top of the PCV valve.

3

Pull the plastic tubes off of the PCV valve with your hands. If the tubes are stuck, twist them as you pull them off.

4

Pull the PCV valve straight out of the rubber grommet seated on top of the valve cover. Wipe down the area around PCV valve and the rubber grommet with a clean rag to remove any dirt or grease.

5

Push the new PCV valve into the rubber grommet and reattach the plastic tubes to the top of the PCV valve. Make sure the new PCV valve is completely seated into the rubber grommet. Close the hood.

Catalytic converters neutralize harmful gases in a vehicles exhaust. The catalytic converters on the 2002 Ford Mustang are integrated into the exhaust pipe assembly that runs from the collector to the rear pipe. This section of pipe can be replaced in under an hour with the proper tools and a little elbow grease. While it is easiest to perform this with the Mustang on a lift, you can remove this assembly in your garage with a floor jack and jack stands.

Instructions

1

Chock the rear wheels and slide the floor jack under the front of the Mustang. Jack the car up and place the jack stands under the front frame on both sides, away from the exhaust work.

2

Climb underneath the Mustang and secure the left, rear exhaust pipe, containing the muffler, to the frame with the wire coat hanger. Repeat this on the right side.

3

Wrap the last wire hanger around catalytic converter pipe assembly and hang it from the frame as well.

4

Use the socket set to unbolt the rear flange on the catalytic converter pipe assembly.

5

Move forward and unbolt the forward flange on the catalytic converter pipe.

6

Remove the coat hanger holding the rear section of the pipe to the frame and move the entire catalytic converter pipe assembly out from under the Mustang.

7

Install the replacement catalytic converter assembly in reverse of how you removed the old one. Dont forget to remove the coat hangers when done.

You can restore the height of the brake pedal on your Mustangs rear drum brake by adjusting the brakes from time to time. This will also have the added benefit of extending the life of your brakes and restoring the emergency brake function. Mustangs with rear disc brakes are adjusted automatically when you push down on the brake pedal.

Instructions

1

Put wheel chocks in front of and behind the front wheels of the vehicle. Put the floor jack under the rear differential and raise the vehicle up high enough to slide the jack stands under the car. Position the stands next to the rear axles. Lower the car onto the jack stands with the jack.

2

Disengage the parking brake and put the car into neutral.

3

Find the adjustment plug, which is toward the bottom of the backing plate, and remove it. The backing plate can be found behind the rear wheels.

4

Put the screwdriver through the hole in the plate and turn the self-adjuster upward while turning the closest rear wheel in a forward direction. You will know the brake is fully adjusted when you feel a slight drag as you spin the wheel. Remove the screwdriver and put the plug back in place. Repeat with the other wheel.

5

Put the car into park and raise the car. Slide out the jack stands and lower the car to the ground. Remove the wheel chocks. Engage and disengage the parking brake several times and test-drive it to make sure the brakes have been adjusted properly. If the parking brake clicks a maximum of six times and the brake pedal is higher, then you know it has been properly adjusted.

The 1987 Mustang belongs to the third generation of this series, which was in production from 1979 to 1993. It had a choice of several engines, including a four-cylinder 2.3-liter engine. This engine uses a timing belt to ensure that the cylinder valves open and close at the correct point in the cylinders compression cycle. The timing belt for a 1987 Mustang with a 2.3-liter engine should last about 60,000 miles before requiring replacement.

Instructions

1

Remove the access plug on the outer timing belt cover with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the engine block. The timing mark on the camshaft sprocket must also align with the timing mark on the inner cover of the timing belt.

2

Loosen the adjuster bolts for the accessory drive belts with a socket wrench, and remove the drive belts. Disconnect the cooling fan and its pulley from the hub of the water pump. Remove the mounting bolt for the outer cover of the timing belt, and disconnect the timing belt cover. Detach the distributor cap from the distributor so you can push the distributor cap out of the way.

3

Loosen the adjustment and pivot bolts for the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench. Pull the tensioner away from the timing belt as far as possible and tighten the adjustment bolt to hold the tensioner in place. Disconnect the crankshaft pulley and the guide plate for the timing belt that is behind the pulley. Remove the timing belt.

4

Install the new timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, auxiliary drive shaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order. Center the timing belt on the sprockets. Loosen the adjustment bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a socket wrench to place tension on the timing belt.

5

Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise to remove the slack in the timing belt, and ensure the timing marks are aligned. Tighten the adjustment bolt on the timing belt tensioner to between 14 and 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the pivot bolt on the belt tensioner to between 28 and 40 ft. lbs.

6

Connect the distributor cap to the distributor. Install the guide plate for the timing belt, outer timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley with a socket wrench. Connect the pulley for the water pump and the cooling fan. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust their tension. Start the engine and check the timing of the ignition.

The first-year 1965 Mustang was introduced to the public in April 1964. The Mustang was based on the Ford Falcon, with which it shared many mechanical parts, including a single exhaust with a transverse-mounted rear muffler. Some enthusiasts may wish to upgrade their Mustangs with a conventional dual-exhaust system, which may add a few horsepower to the rear wheels, as well as a sporty exhaust note.

Instructions

1

Raise the car with a hydraulic jack and place jack stands under each frame rail at the front and under each side of the axle housing at the rear. Lower the hydraulic jack so that the entire weight of the car rests on the jack stands.

2

Push a steel doughnut gasket onto the flared end of each side of the header pipe assembly. Raise the header pipe into place under the car and place a jack stand under to support it. Line up the holes in the mounting flanges on each side of the pipe to the threaded studs protruding from each exhaust manifold on the underside of the engine. Thread nuts onto the studs finger-tight.

3

Slide the exhaust pipe extensions into the ends of each side of the header pipe. Rotate the pipes as needed to obtain at least one inch of clearance from the underside of the floor, frame rails or drive shaft. Finish driving the extensions into the head pipes with a block of wood and a hammer until they are fully seated.

4

Push a muffler onto one of the extension pipes with the center offset facing the front of the car. Make sure the offset at the rear of the muffler is facing the side of the car. Repeat for the remaining muffler and extension pipe. Push the mufflers onto the pipes until they are fully seated.

5

Locate the factory-drilled holes in the rear frame rails ahead of the rear axle. Attach a muffler hanger to the holes with the hardware supplied and tighten with a socket and ratchet wrench. Raise up on the bottom of the muffler with one hand, then secure it to the muffler hanger with the hardware supplied. Repeat for the remaining muffler hanger and muffler.

6

Locate the factory-dilled holes in the frame rails at the rear of the car. Install tail pipe hangers to these holes with the hardware supplied. Position the bend in the tail pipe over the rear axle, then insert the end of the pipe in the muffler. Attach the other end of the pipe to the tail pipe hanger with the hardware supplied. Repeat for the remaining tail pipe.

7

Place muffler clamps over all joints where the pipes join the mufflers and head pipes. Ensure the entire system has at least one inch of clearance to all obstructions. Tighten the muffler clamps and the nuts on the header pipes at the exhaust manifolds with a socket and ratchet. Raise the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and check the exhaust system clearances again. Loosen the clamps and rotate the pipes as needed to gain the proper clearance. Tighten all clamps.

The Ford Mustang Cobra is a powerful sports car and requires a lot of voltage to operate the engine accessories. The Cobras electrical components are powered by the alternator and once the alternator fails, it needs to be replaced. Installing a new alternator needs to be done in the proper procedure to ensure it operates correctly. The old alternator must be removed first so the new alternator can be installed.

Disconnect the Battery

The battery stores power and is charged by the alternator of the Mustang Cobra. Both the negative ("-") and positive ("+") battery terminals need to be removed from the battery, in that order, so power or voltage is not being sent to the alternator. This needs to be done to ensure the alternator does not shock the mechanic working on the component.

Remove Alternator Power Terminals

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra has power cables or terminals that need to be removed before loosening the attachment bolts. The terminal connections are locked into place with a clip that needs to be pulled up. Once the clip is pulled up, the terminal connection can be pulled apart, disconnecting the alternator power terminal. A nut holds another terminal onto the back of the alternator. The bolt can be removed with a ratchet and socket or a box-end wrench.

Remove Attachment Bolts

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra is held in place by two attachment bolts. Both bolts need to be loosened in order to remove the timing or serpentine belt. The bolt on the bottom of the alternator is the pivot bolt. Once the bolts are loosened, the alternator can be turned slightly on the pivot bolt so the serpentine belt can be removed. The bolts can then be removed from the alternator and the alternator can be removed from the mounting brackets.

Install the New Alternator

The new alternator can be placed back onto the mounting brackets of the Mustang Cobra engine. The attachment bolts can then be installed and tightened down holding the alternator in place. Leave the attachment bolts slightly loose so the alternator can pivot. The serpentine belt can be placed back onto the alternator pulley.

Tighten Serpentine Belt

Since the alternator is still loose, tension on the serpentine belt can be performed. A small crow-bar or pry-bar can be slid between the alternator and the mounting brackets. Pressure can then be placed on the alternator rotating on the pivot bolt and tightening the serpentine belt. Pressure needs to be maintained on the serpentine belt as the attachment bolts are tightened into place. This keeps the tension on the serpentine belt.

Replace Power

The alternator power terminals and battery cables need to be replaced on the Mustang Cobra. Slid the back terminal onto the screw terminal and tighten the nut onto the end. The power terminal connection can be slid back into place, ensuring the locking clip snaps back into place. The positive and negative battery cables need to be put back on the battery terminals and tightened down. Make sure the black cable goes onto the negative side of the battery and the red cable goes onto the positive side of the battery.

The Ford Mustang has been popular since its introduction in 1965, and people have been working on making the pony car faster since day one. One of the big improvements you can install is an x-pipe for your exhaust, because it increases the overall horsepower on average by about 10 horsepower. This install does take some time, as it is a little bit complicated, but you can do it in your garage with the right tools.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery from the battery using an open-end wrench. This will reset the computer so that the vehicle recognizes the performance gains once its reconnected.

2

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

3

Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the first set of exhaust hangers underneath the vehicle. Measure 1 1/2-inches forward of the exhaust hanger, and mark it with the permanent marker. Cut the exhaust at that point with the reciprocating saw and fine-tooth metal blades.

4

Loosen the factory band clamps that hold the exhaust together using a flat-head screwdriver and pull out the stock exhaust and place it to the side.

5

Slide the clamps that come with the x-pipe onto the factory exhaust and slide the x-pipe into the stock position, hanging the x-pipe on the factory hangers by pushing the hangers through the rubber mounts with your hands. Tighten the clamps to the x-pipe using the flat-head screwdriver.

6

Slide the clamps that come with the x-pipe onto the rearmost section of the stock exhaust, and the rear part of the x-pipe. There are two sleeves that come with the x-pipe and slide those onto the exhaust so that they go over both the x-pipe and the rear section of the stock exhaust. Clamp the exhaust sleeves on both sides of the sleeve using the clamps and the flat-head screwdriver.

7

Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery using the open-end wrench.

8

Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands using the jack and place it on the ground.

9

Start the vehicle and check for exhaust leaks. If you find any, tighten the clamps using the flat-head screwdriver.

As a result of the air/fuel mixture igniting within the engine, the engine produces carbon monoxide. That carbon monoxide, generically referred to as "exhaust," is routed out of the engine and to the back of the vehicle via exhaust manifolds and pipes. Two gaskets within the exhaust system prevent the exhaust fumes from escaping the exhaust system before they reach the end of the exhaust pipe. If either of these gaskets fail, exhaust fumes will be present and the gaskets will need to be replaced. Doing so on a Mustang is fairly straightforward.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the engine is cool for at least three hours, as the temperature of exhaust components can easily burn exposed skin.

2

Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. The exhaust manifold attaches to the side of the cylinder head with several large retaining bolts. If the engine has eight cylinders, there will be a total of eight retaining bolts. If the engine has six cylinders, the manifold will have six bolts. Remove these bolts with a wrench, then pull the manifold away from the cylinder head.

3

Remove the exhaust manifold gasket. Between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head is a single gasket. Oftentimes, the gasket will stick to the cylinder head when the manifold is removed. Peel the gasket away from the cylinder head, then scrape any remaining gasket material off the cylinder head with the blade of a flat head screwdriver.

4

Disconnect the bottom of the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe. The exhaust manifold features two studs at the back of the manifold. These two studs slide through two holes at the tip of the exhaust pipe, and are held in place with two nuts. Remove the two nuts with a wrench, then pull the manifold away from the exhaust pipe to disconnect to two components. Remove the single exhaust gasket from the bottom of the exhaust manifold.

5

Slide a new exhaust gasket over the two studs on the back of the exhaust manifold, then insert the two studs through the two holes on the tip of the exhaust pipe. Install and tighten the two nuts onto the tips of the manifolds studs with a wrench.

6

Place a new exhaust manifold gasket onto the portion of the manifold that rests against the side of the cylinder head, then press the manifold and gasket against the cylinder head.

7

Slide each of the exhaust manifolds retaining bolts through the manifold and into the cylinder head, then tighten each of the bolts with a wrench to complete the repair.

Whether youre restoring a 1965 Mustang to its original state, or adding a few creature comforts along the way, one of the most important jobs is the rewiring. An electrical system is only as good as its weakest link. Bad connections and insulation can cause shorts that in turn cause failure at best and electrical fires at worst.

Replace All Wires

Replace all the components when rewiring your 1965 Mustang. The chances are that most of them have worn or corroded, and even those that look in reasonable condition are probably more brittle than they should be and will fail soon. If a part is almost 50 years old, then it is likely to fail soon and damage the rest of the system.

Watch for Chaffing

As youre installing your new wires, take time to do what Ford didnt do. Examine each piece of the wiring for security and chaffing during road vibrations and over bumps. If you find any positions where the wire may rub, then wrap them generously in electrical tape and do what you can to secure the wire out of the way. Also seal any connections outside the car that may get wet -- this will help prevent them from corroding. A few minutes here could save hours of troubleshooting later on.

Replace Switches

Switches should be replaced whenever you replace the wiring harness. Faulty switches can lead to circuit breaker and part failures that cant be fixed on the road. Ford switches have a history of failure when theres a high current load, so headlight and air conditioning switches should be replaced at the very least.