Repair 7

Nissan introduced the first-ever compact pickup truck to the U.S. market in 1958, back when Nissans were still known as Datsuns. Nissan redesigned its pickup truck several times, giving it a complete makeover in 1986. While several trims of the vehicle were available, Nissan generally erred to its compact pickup simply as the Nissan Pickup until they discontinued production of it in 1997. The mid-sized Frontier replaced the Pickup in 1998, and Nissan introduced the full-size Titan pickup truck in 2004.

General Alignment Information

The Nissan offered its 1995 Pickup in a variety of two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims, but all two-wheel-drive trims had the same alignment specs, as did all four-wheel-drive trims. The caster, camber, toe and steering axis inclination (SAI) are all adjustable on the front end of all trims of the 1995 Nissan pickup. The caster is the angle of a vehicles steering pivot, as it is viewed from the side of the vehicle. The camber is the angle that the wheel tilts when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If it tilts out at the top, the camber is positive. If it tilts in at the top, it is negative. The toe is the measurement of a wheels angle in relation to the center line of the vehicle. On most vehicles, the front wheels are intended to point slightly toward each other. The SAI is the measurement of the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the front of the vehicle. All measurements are given in degrees.

Alignment Specs for the 1995 2WD Pickup

The caster angle on the front end of the 1995 two-wheel-drive Nissan Pickup should fall between +0.37 degree and +0.5 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The camber angle should fall between +0.42 degree and +0.50 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The toe-in should be between +0.8 degree and +0.25 degree. The SAI can range from +0.5 degree to +9.1 degrees. The alignment was not adjustable on the rear end of two-wheel-drive trims of the 1995 Nissan Pickup because it came with a fixed rear axle.

Alignment Specs for the 1995 4WD Nissan Pickup

The caster angle on the front end of the 1995 four-wheel-drive Nissan Pickup should fall between +0.50 degree and +1.3 degrees, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The camber angle should fall between +0.50 degree and +0.67 degree, with a cross tolerance of +0.75 degree. The toe-in should be between +0.8 degree and +0.32 degree. The SAI can range from +0.5 degree to +8.1 degrees. As with the two-wheel-drive trims, the four-wheel-drive trims of the 1995 Nissan Pickup truck came with a fixed rear axle and the alignment was not adjustable on the rear end.

The orifice tube on a Ford truck is a hard debris filter for the air conditioning system. If a component in the system fails, the orifice tube prevents the debris from the failure from spreading throughout the system.

Location

The orifice tube resides in the liquid line between the receiver/dryer and the evaporator. The liquid line brings rigerant into the evaporator, the component that removes heat from the air in the passenger compartment.

Purpose

The rigerant flows through the AC system, outward from the AC compressor, through the manifold hose, condenser, receiver/dryer and evaporator before returning to the compressor.

Purpose

When performing a full AC system inspection, after evacuating the system with a rigerant service machine, remove the orifice tube and visually inspect it. If you note any signs of debris in the line, the AC compressor is most likely coming apart inside and requires replacement.

Made of steel, a ball joint acts as a pivot between a car or trucks suspension and its tires. Vehicle manufacturers developed them for specific models, so theyre not interchangeable.

Function

Ball joints support the weight of the truck and, in some cases, also help set its alignment. Located on the front end of the truck, a ball joint stays inside a steel casing to prevent dirt and water from reaching it.

Types

Some trucks contain an upper and lower ball joint. Others use a MacPherson strut system, which has a lower ball joint and an upper strut bearing. With this system, the upper strut bearing acts as the pivot, making an upper ball joint unnecessary.

Maintenance

When inspecting a trucks suspension, the owner or mechanic should also check the ball joints. If the truck doesnt have its original joints, they will require lubrication regularly, as the original seal is broken. Worn out joints can cause uneven wear on tires and steering problems.

Some Nissan models - particularly the ZD30 Nissan patrol, have had a history of serious engine problems over the years, including piston cracks, head cracks and cracked cylinders and engine blocks. Nissan has taken steps to rectify the issues in recent years. If you have a cracked cylinder, that means that the recess in which the piston slides back and forth has become damaged, resulting in the air/fuel mixture leaking out around the piston. If it is the cylinder that is cracked, rather than the piston, you may have to replace the entire engine block.

Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

A cracked cylinder will generally result in the loss of compression in that one cylinder. You may notice your engine "missing," running poorly and lacking in power. If your car runs at all, you would notice poor acceleration and poor performance on hills. However, there are a number of other issues that could cause this same problem. You may want to check your spark plugs for proper gapping and functioning. Also check your fuel injection system and your head gasket. Each of these items is much less expensive to repair, and would cause similar symptoms, so rule each of these out before replacing the cylinder.

Parts

If you determine that your engine problems are, in fact, the result of a cracked cylinder, and the crack is too severe to weld shut, you will need to replace the engine block itself. The cost of the engine depends on the year, make and model of your Nissan. Expect to pay between $1,800 and $2,000 for a fully remanufactured engine block. However, you may also be able to find a complete engine in the aftermarket for around a thousand to $1,500, depending on the make and model of your Nissan.

Labor

Generally, auto mechanic shops have a shop rate prominently posted in the customer service area. This is the hourly rate that the mechanic charges, generally in addition to the diagnostic fee, if any. The mechanic will give you an estimate based on the shop rate, times a multiplier from an industry guide called "The Mitchell Book" that lists how much time it typically takes to do a repair. Expect to pay between 8 and 10 hours of labor charges to do a full engine swap, depending on the make and model of your vehicle, assuming there are no other repairs to do.

Master Cylinder

It is possible that your mechanic is erring to your master cylinder. The master cylinder converts mechanical energy from your foot pressing down on the brake pedal into hydraulic energy, which is then distributed through the power steering system to your brakes, or to your clutch. You can get a new brake master cylinder for about $100-$120. For clutch master cylinders, expect to pay about $30 to $60 for the part. According to CarsDirect.com, the average cost of a brake master cylinder replacement is $200-$300, including labor.

When an oxygen sensor (also called an O2 sensor) is malfunctioning on a truck, the engine control unit isnt getting the proper information it needs to run the engine; as a result, the car may run poorly. The fix is to replace the sensor, and its a lot easier to do than one might think. This job should take about 30 minutes to do, depending on the year, make and number of O2 sensors on the truck.

Instructions

1

Lift up the vehicle using the jack and place it on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure before you crawl underneath it.

2

Crawl underneath the truck and find the oxygen sensors. These are little metal tubes that stick out perpendicular to the exhaust tubing, typically near the catalytic converters. They also have two wires coming out of the ends, making it the only thing with wiring leading into the exhaust. Unplug the wiring to the O2 sensor using your hands.

3

Place the O2 sensor socket on the 3/8-inch ratchet and put the socket on the sensor so that the wiring is running out of the slot in the socket body. Unbolt the sensor and place it to the side. Repeat this process for any other O2 sensors that you want to remove.

The 1986 Toyota Pickup belongs to the fourth generation of this series which was in production from 1983 to 1988. The most common engine for this vehicle is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine. The 1986 Toyota pickup uses a timing chain to drive the camshaft with the crankshaft. The timing chain may require replacement, although it can last for the lifetime of the vehicle. The most critical aspect of the timing chain replacement is keeping the timing marks aligned during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the alternator and oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the cooling fan with the water pump still attached. Disconnect the securing bolt for the crankshaft pulley and pull the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

2

Detach the water bypass hose to access the timing chain cover. Disconnect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt with a socket wrench. Remove the water outlet pipe for the heater.

3

Remove the mounting bolts for the timing chain cover with a socket wrench, and detach the cover. Separate the timing chain from the crankshaft damper. Remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket from the camshaft. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump drive from the crankshaft with a suitable gear puller.

4

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a wrench until the crankshaft key aligns with the timing mark on the crankcase. Align the key way on the crankshaft sprocket with the key on the crankshaft and mount the sprocket to the crankshaft.

5

Mount the new timing chain to the crankshaft sprocket so that the single bright link on the chain aligns with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Mount the timing chain to the camshaft sprocket so that the timing mark on the sprocket is between the pair of bright links on the timing chain.

6

Place the drive spline for the oil pump over the key on the crankshaft and mount the gasket for the timing chain cover to the front of the engine block. Turn the camshaft sprocket counterclockwise with a wrench to take up the slack on the timing chain.

7

Replace the cover for the timing chain. Tighten the 8-mm mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and tighten the 10-mm bolts to 29 foot-pounds. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer to the gaskets for the oil pan and timing chain cover.

8

Connect the adjusting bar for the cooling fan belt, and tighten its mounting bolts to 9 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Attach the water outlet pipe for the heater and the water bypass pipe.

9

Mount the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench. Attach the water pump and air conditioning compressor. Connect the oil pan and alternator.

The Nissan D21 was a series of pickup trucks manufactured in the United States from 1986 to 1997. The 1992 models use fuel injection, which requires an electric fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system. The fuel pump in the 1992 Nissan truck is installed within the fuel tank, so you must lower the fuel tank to access the fuel pump. The fuel pump in these vehicles is generally not serviceable, so a fuel pump repair consists of replacing the faulty fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box located under the dashboard on the drivers side. Start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine for five seconds to ensure the fuel system is empty. Replace the fuse for the fuel pump.

2

Disconnect the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. This will ensure that you cant start the engine accidentally while repairing the fuel pump. Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel pump assembly. Place a hose into the fuel tank and siphon the fuel into container approved for gasoline.

3

Detach the filler tube from the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank including the fuel outlet hose, fuel return hose and ventilation hose. Detach the electrical connector for the fuel gauge unit. Support the fuel tank with a jack and remove the mounting bolts for the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel tank from the vehicle and lower it to the ground with the jack.

4

Disconnect the retaining bolts for the ring on the fuel pump with a socket wrench. Discard the O-ring for the fuel pump and pull the fuel pump out of the fuel tank. Cover the hole in the fuel tank with a shop towel to prevent contamination of the fuel tank.

5

Install a new fuel pump and O-ring by reversing steps two through four. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

A 2002 GMC truck needs an OBD scan tool to clear the "Service Engine Soon" light. There is a computer within the vehicle called On-Board Diagnostics, or OBD, that monitors the various systems within the vehicle. It also keeps track of when you need routine maintenance. To keep the computer functioning properly so it keeps track of when the maintenance is due, you must use the OBD scan tool to read the code to find out exactly what type of servicing is needed. Then you simply use the tool to reset the light. Make sure you have the servicing performed before you clear the light.

Instructions

1

Locate the diagnostic connector port on the drivers side of the vehicle. It is located on the underside of the dashboard, between the center console and the steering column. Plug the OBD scan tool connector end into the diagnostic connector port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. This will power the scan tool on. Make sure you dont turn the key too far and start the engine.

3

Wait for the code to appear on the screen of the scan tool then press "Erase." If you are prompted by the question "Are you sure?," press "Yes." This clears the codes and you should see the "Service Engine Soon" light disappear from the instrument cluster. Unplug the scan tool and turn off the vehicle.

4

Turn the engine on and check to see that the "Service Engine Soon" light is still off.

The 1999 Ford F-250 is a diesel truck that many people use to haul heavy items with good fuel economy. If your F-250 is having a hard time starting, there are a few things that you can do before you get it towed to a repair shop. You dont have to be a car mechanic to get your diesel working again. You can do it yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of truck repair.

Instructions

1

Insert your key into the F-250s ignition and then try to start the truck. Check the electrical panel on the dashboard. Look at the battery meter and the gas gauge on the dashboard. If your truck does not have enough gas to start, fill the tank with diesel.

2

Use the applicable fuel for the truck. If you are using winter diesel in the summer, you will need to change the fuel. Summer diesel should not be used in the winter. Use a siphon to pump the gas out of the trucks gas tank.

3

Insert one end of the hose into the gas tank. Insert the other end into an empty container. Pump the siphon hose to siphon the gas out of the tank and into the container. Fill the gas tank with the applicable diesel.

4

Check the battery connections to the battery if your gauge indicated that there was a low charge. Open the hood and locate the battery next to the engine. Make sure that the battery connections are properly connected to the terminals. The red cable should be on the positive (+) terminal and the black cable should be on the negative terminal (-). Use a pair of channel locks to secure the connections.

5

Place the terminal leads of the voltmeter to your batterys connections. The diesel truck uses a 12-volt battery. You should get an 11 to 12 volt reading on the voltmeters display. If you dont get an 11 to 12 volt reading from the voltmeter, replace the battery.

6

Jack the front end of the truck up with a jack and then locate the small black box on the bottom of the engine. This is the starter. Have a friend turn the ignition and listen to the starter. If you hear buzzing or clicking coming from the starter, you need to have it replaced by a certified technician.

There are commonly two oxygen sensors in the 4.3 liter engine exhaust system on a Chevy truck. One is the "upstream" sensor located on the drivers side Y-pipe near the manifold and the other "downstream" sensor which is located midway down the passenger side near the catalytic converter. Buying a direct-fit replacement sensor would be strongly advised. Its not much more expensive and it will save you time and effort struggling to rewire the universal after-market sensors.

Instructions

How to Install an Oxygen Sensor in 4.3L Chevy Truck

1

Drive the Chevy truck up onto the car ramps on a level surface and place it in gear or park. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear wheels.

2

Grab your tools, put on the safety glasses, and crawl underneath the truck on a creeper if you have one.

3

Locate the sensor you are changing. The front one is located on the drivers side up near the manifold and screwed into the Y-pipe. The rear one is located on the passenger side, down just before the catalytic converter.

4

Follow the oxygen sensor wire to the plug outlet. Unplug the sensor wire from the harness plug. Press in on the clip lock with the screwdriver and separate the plugs.

5

Place the oxygen sensor wire into the slot on the side of the oxygen sensor socket and place the ratchet on the end of the socket. Try to remove the oxygen sensor. If it is stubbornly stuck, remove the socket and ratchet and light the torch. Heat the pipe area around the sensor up, but do not heat the sensor as well. Once the pipe area is good and hot (cherry red) remove the sensor. If you had to use the torch to extract the sensor, allow the pipe area to cool down before proceeding.

6

Screw the new sensor in by hand. You will note that the new sensor has a light coating of anti-seize lubricant on it. Do not wipe this off. It will help for future removal and replacement. Tighten snugly with the ratchet and socket, but do not overtighten the sensor. You do not want to strip the threads of the sensor.

7

Plug the sensor back into the harness plug. Remove the tools and crawl out from under the truck.

8

Remove the wheel chock, release the parking brake, and drive it down off the ramps.

All types of automobiles rely on a suspension system to attach the body and frame of the vehicle to its wheels. Suspensions serve the important purpose of keeping the wheels firmly planted on the ground. They also make driving more comfortable by reducing shock. Truck suspensions are similar to car suspensions but use larger components that can handle the increased weight or survive the stresses of off-road driving.

Springs

Coil springs serve as the basis of most truck suspensions. The springs rely on a very simple mechanical principle of compression to resist the shocks that the wheels experience. Springs absorb energy to push the wheels down and keep the frame of the truck level.

Struts

Struts are shock absorbers that run through the center of a truck suspensions coil springs. They contain compressed gas or liquid that can absorb energy and keep the trucks body level, much like the coil spring. Struts differ from coil springs in that they include multiple mounting points for attaching to the truck frame and other suspension components. A strut can resist force in an up-down direction, but also from side-to-side. Struts are stronger (and larger) than the shock absorbers on small cars, making them ideal for trucks when paired with a coil spring.

Sway Bars

A trucks sway bar is a relatively large piece of its suspension. Sway bars connect two wheels at the same end of the truck. They are not solid, but instead include a torsion spring that absorbs energy as the trucks makes turns, when force is applied to the wheels unevenly. Sway bars help prevent the body of the truck from leaning as the driver executes a turn and subjects it to sideways (torsional) force.

Tie Rods

A trucks tie rod is a solid metal shaft that runs the width of the front suspension. It attaches near each wheel and engages the steering mechanism. Since the steering components, like the Pitman arm and drag link, are not part of the suspension structure and dont attach directly to the wheels, the tie rod links the steering shaft to the suspension so that the trucks driver can control the wheels independent of the movement of the suspension.

Control Arms

A control arm attaches each wheel to the trucks frame directly. Two control arms form a double-wishbone suspension, which attaches to the wheel via a ball joint that allows the control arm to pivot. Steering linkages affect the motion of the control arm to apply the force that turns the wheel.

A 1989 Chevrolet truck may be an S-10 or a member of the C/K series. The S-10 is a compact pickup truck, and the C/K series are full-size pickup trucks. These vehicles generally use an early form of fuel injection called throttle body injection. This type of fuel requires a low-pressure fuel pump that delivers fuel in the range of 9 to 13 pounds per square inch. A malfunctioning fuel pump typically requires you to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Loosen the fuel filler cap and remove the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box of the passenger compartment. Start the engine and allow it to stall. Crank the engine for three seconds and turn the ignition off. Replace the fuse for the fuel pump. Open the hood and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench.

2

Siphon the fuel through the filler tube to drain the fuel tank into a gasoline-approved container. Raise the rear of the truck with the jack. Place jack stands under the frame and lower the vehicle onto the stands. Loosen the retaining clamp for the filler hose on the fuel tank, and disconnect the filler hose. Disconnect the fuel and vapor lines from the fuel tank, and disconnect the fuel hoses and electrical wiring from the fuel tank. Raise the jack to support the fuel tank, and remove the straps on the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank slightly to gain access to the fuel sending unit. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical wiring from the fuel sending unit. Lower the fuel tank to the ground.

3

Turn the cam locking ring on the fuel sending unit counterclockwise with tool No. J-24187 or J-36608. Remove the cam locking ring, and disconnect the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank. Discard the old gasket on the fuel tank. Pull the fuel pump from the bottom support and into the mounting tube without damaging the insulator or the fuel strainer. Pull the fuel pump out of its rubber connector.

4

Push the new fuel pump into the mounting tube of the fuel sending unit, and place the new gasket onto the fuel tank. Lower the fuel sending unit into the fuel tank without folding the fuel strainer.

5

Attach the cam locking ring on the fuel sending unit. Turn the locking ring clockwise with tool No. J-24187 or J-36608 until the locking ring locks into place. Connect the fuel tank and fill it with fuel. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal, and check the fuel system for leaks.

The BT L2300U is a manually-operated hand pallet truck, designed to transport weight loads of up to 5,000-pounds. Hand pallet trucks offer a simple means to move or arrange pallet loads, where using a large motorized fork truck may be prohibitive or impractical. Operating the BT L2300U in the correct manner will help promote a safe working environment, while reducing the chances of damaging loads or surrounding equipment.

Instructions

1

Perform a safety check of the loaded pallet. Make sure the pallet load is secure, while checking the pallet itself for defects.

2

Check the orientation of the pallet; make sure one of the two partitioned openings of the pallet is accessible to the forked-end of the hand pallet truck.

3

Steer the hand pallet truck to the loaded pallet, using the trucks handlebars

4

Squeeze the handlebar lever to lower the forks. Release the lever to return the lever to the neutral position.

5

Push the forks into the partitioned openings of the pallet. Make sure the forks are fully and evenly inserted.

6

Push the handlebar lever down to the lowest position. Grasp the handlebars with both hands and pump the handle several times, while checking the pallet height from the floor. Ensure the pallet is elevated from the ground at all four corners.

7

Move the handlebar lever to the center position after selecting the appropriate pallet height.

8

Pull and steer the load to the desired location. Push the load from behind, using the handlebars, when backing the pallet into a tight area.

9

Squeeze the handlebar lever to lower the pallet to the floor. Release the lever and pull the forks from the pallet openings.

There are a number of reasons to completely remove a truck engine, including refurbishing, replacing and general repairs. Each size and style of engine will have small differences, so the exact process of removal will be slightly different, but the basic procedure will remain the same regardless. The vehicles owners manual will provide the specifics for attachment locations and any model-specific tools that may be required. The procedure requires more than one person to work the overhead winch because the weight of the engine makes it dangerous for one person to handle.

Instructions

1

Park the truck on a level surface and set the parking brake. Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the retaining bolts from the hood hinges and remove the hood from the vehicle.

2

Place a bucket under the radiator drain valve. Open the valve with a socket wrench and drain all of the fluid. Disconnect the radiator hoses and electrical connections from the engine.

3

Place a bucket under the engine oil drain plug. Remove the plug and allow the engine oil to drain completely.

4

Disconnect all of the sensors from the engine. These may include, but not limited to the crankshaft sensor, temperature sensors, oil pressure sensor and throttle position sensor.

5

Disconnect the throttle cable. Disconnect the cruise control cable. Remove the ground straps connected to the starter and engine.

6

Disconnect the starter and alternator. Move them out of the way or remove them from the engine compartment depending on their location and whether they are inconvenient to the larger project.

7

Jack up the front of the vehicle and place jack stands under the axles for stability. Disconnect the exhaust pipes and crankcase breather. Disconnect the fuel lines and fuel injectors. Remove the throttle body and intake pipes.

8

Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Remove the fan shroud, fan, coolant pump and water lines. Disconnect the vacuum lines. Disconnect any additional connections.

9

Remove the bolts from the engine mounting brackets. Depending on the model of engine, there could be anywhere from three to six mounting bolts. Remove the torque-converter and all of the belts.

10

Attach the overhead winch to the engine using heavy chains and hooks. Raise the engine slowly while one person steadies the engine to keep it from damaging anything. When the engine is completely clear of the engine compartment, swing it to one side and lower it to the ground.

Trucks generally get more beat up that some other vehicles because they are used to haul things around such as tools, supplies, furniture and more. If you arent careful, the paint on your truck can get scratched up in a short amount of time. Removing the scratches can be a somewhat involved process, particularly if they are large or deep. Fixing the scratches requires several steps as well as a bit of elbow grease.

Instructions

1

Clean the scratched area with soap and water to remove any grit, dust or paint flakes. Rinse and dry the area off with a clean, soft rag.

2

Examine the scratched area to determine the extent of the damage. The amount of repair needed depends on this. If you still see color, then the scratch isnt that bad. It is either just damage to the clear coat or in the paint, but hasnt gone down to the primer or car body. If there is no color, then then you are, at minimum, into the primer. If you only have surface scratches, you can skip straight to Step 5.

3

Apply touch-up paint that closely matches your trucks paint to the scratched area if the scratch went below the surface. Allow the paint to set and dry for a day before proceeding.

4

Sand out deep scratches that you had to fill in with touch-up paint. Use an ultra-fine sandpaper such as a 2,000-grit. Sand down until the touched-up area is smooth and level with the surrounding paint. If the scratch did not penetrate below the color, then you will still need to sand, but do so carefully to avoid going below the paint.

5

Apply a buffing compound to the area. Rub in a circular motion until the surface scratches or sanded scratches are gone. Continue rubbing, but change to a side-to-side motion until the circles are gone. Switch to a clean cloth to buff out residue.