Repair 7

For 2000 Ford F-250 trucks, the horns are mounted behind the radiator grille. Removing the horns requires detaching one retaining bolt. An electrical connector also links the horns themselves to the horn pad inside the vehicle.

Replacement

Generally, car horns are not off-the-shelf items. To obtain a replacement, a F-250 owner would need to order through a dealership or an online retailer. The mechanical replacement process should only take a few minutes. Once the F-250s hood is opened, the horn can be located behind the grille. After the wiring is disconnected, only one bolt needs removal.

The Steering Wheel

The F-250s horn can be sounded by pressing a component on the steering wheel. The horn also has components within the steering wheel, and getting to them requires partially dismantling the steering wheel itself. The horns electrical connections and wiring are near the airbag module. For reasons of safety, the F-250s airbag system should be disarmed before attempting to dismantle the steering wheel.

Disarming the Air Bags

Disarming the F-250s air bag system requires opening the trucks hood. Remove the negative cable from the batterys negative terminal. Then, remove the positive cable from the positive terminal. Wait five minutes or more. The F-250 will have residual power within the vehicle. It needs to drain out or the air bags could still deploy.

Ford uses halogen light bulbs housed within a headlamp assembly for forward illumination on the 2003 F-150 model vehicles. The bulb plugs into the headlamp assembly and is held in place by a headlamp bulb retainer, which serves to seal and isolate the headlamp assembly from the atmosphere. Over time, the filaments within the bulb can break due to vibration. Replace the bulb without the benefit of tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Turn the ignition and headlamp switches to the Off position. Raise the hood.

2

Locate the two headlamp housing retainer tabs inside the engine compartment just behind and above the headlamp housing assembly. Pull the tabs slightly toward the rear of the vehicle and pull up on them to release the headlamp housing assembly.

3

Separate the headlamp housing from the front of the vehicle to expose the headlamp electrical connector on the back. Squeeze the locking tabs on the side of the electrical connector and unplug the connector from the headlamp bulb. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.

4

Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise to unsnap it from the headlamp housing. Remove the headlamp bulb retainer. Grasp the headlamp bulb and pull it out of the headlamp housing.

Installation

5

Insert the new headlamp bulb into the headlamp housing with the flat side of the bulb connector facing up.

6

Install the headlamp bulb retainer into the back of the headlamp housing and rotate it clockwise until it snaps into place. Plug the headlamp electrical connector into the headlamp bulb and push it on until the connector snaps in position.

7

Guide the headlamp housing into position. Ensure that the headlamp assembly is aligned properly with the alignment pins on the back of the housing, inserted in the holes in the body and engaged with the reinforcement ribs around the edge of the headlamp housing recess. Push down on the headlamp housing retainer tabs until they snap into position.

The Ford Econoline is a series of full-size passenger and cargo vans. The F-150 designation indicates the vehicle has a rated carrying capacity of at least 1/2 ton. The most common engine in a 1989 Ford Econoline F-150 is an 8-cylinder 5.0-liter engine. The oil pump on this engine is located on top of the engine near the front.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the oil pan with a socket wrench. Remove the oil pan from the engine. Detach the inlet tube from the oil pump and disconnect the screen assembly.

2

Remove the mounting bolts from the oil pump with a socket wrench. Pull the oil pump drive shaft from the body of the oil pump. Disconnect the oil pump assembly from the distributor socket and discard its gasket.

3

Fill the inlet and outlet ports of the new oil pump with engine oil and turn the oil pump drive shaft to distribute the oil through the pump. Align the oil pump drive shaft with the distributor shaft by rotating the oil pump drive shaft as required. Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the distributor socket. Position the new gasket on the pump body and insert the oil pump drive shaft into the pump body.

4

Connect the mounting bolts to the oil pump and tighten them to between 22 and 32 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Install the screen assembly for the oil pump with a socket wrench and attach the inlet tube for the oil pump. Mount the oil pan and fasten the attaching bolts with a socket wrench.

The 2009 Ford F-150 came with a wide array of high-luxury and high-tech options available. One of these options was Fords Microsoft-powered Sync. This system allows the driver to change radio stations, adjust the radio volume, perform basic vehicle diagnostics and even make phone calls by just speaking. Sync utilized Bluetooth technology to access the drivers cell phone, in order to make hands-free calling possible. To make this system function correctly, as with all Bluetooth devices, you must pair the cell phone with Sync.

Instructions

Without Navigation System

1

Turn your cell phones Bluetooth on. This process varies, depending on the phone you have.

2

Insert the ignition key in the F-150s ignition and start the truck. Turn the radio on.

3

Press the button on the radio in the shape of a phone. Observe as "Connecting" or "No Phone Found" shows on the Sync display, depending if you already paired a phone to the F-150.

4

Press the up or down arrow key until "Add Bluetooth Device" appears on the Sync display screen. Press the "OK" button.

5

Listen for Sync to say "Press OK to begin pairing device." Press the "OK" button.

6

Listen for Sync to say "Search for SYNC on your device and enter the PIN provided by SYNC." Locate "Sync" in the Bluetooth devices listed on your phone and select it. Enter the PIN provided by on the Sync display screen. You have three minutes to complete this task, or you must go back to Step 1.

7

Observe as "Device Connected" appears on the Sync display screen, if successfully paired.

8

Press the "OK" button when "Primary" shows up on the Sync display screen. To set this phone as primary, click "OK" when "Yes" appears on the screen. Scroll to "No," using the arrow keys, and press "OK" if you do not want this phone as the primary. The primary phone is the phone that the Sync searches for by default when the F-150 starts.

9

Observe as "Download Phonebook?" appears on the Sync display, if your phone supports this feature. Press the "OK" button. If you would like to download your phonebook to Sync, press "OK" when "Yes" appears on the screen. If not, scroll to "No," using the arrow keys, then press "OK."

10

Observe as "Download Complete" appears on the Sync display when the phonebook download is complete, if applicable.

11

Press the arrow keys until "Exit Phone Menu" appears on the Sync display screen, and press "OK" to exit the system.

12

Turn the ignition off and remove the key.

With Navigation System

13

Turn your cell phones Bluetooth on. This process varies, depending on the phone you have.

14

Start the F-150s engine and turn the radio on.

15

Press the "Phone" button on the F-150s radio. This allows you to access the phone menu.

16

Touch the "Settings" button on the left of the navigation screen.

17

Press the "Add" button on the right side of the navigation screen. Observe as a "Pass-Key" appears on the screen. Locate "Sync" in the Bluetooth devices on your cell phone and add the "Pass-Key" when prompted. This process varies, depending on your model of phone.

18

Observe as "Pairing Successful" appears on the screen; if this does not appear, start over from Step 1.

19

Select "Yes" or "No" when "Set as Favorite Phone?" appears on the screen. Selecting "Yes" means this phone is the one that Sync will connect to when first started.

20

Observe as "Download Phonebook/Call History?" appears on the screen. Select "Yes" to add your phonebook and call history to Sync. Select "No" not to add it.

21

Turn the ignition off and remove the key.

Removing the starter from your Ford F-150 will allow you to bench-test the starter if it is malfunctioning. If the starter is not working at all, a new starter is available through a Ford dealer or most major auto parts stores. The starter is responsible for spinning the engine prior to it starting. Replacing the starter is a great project to tackle at home and will save you from a large repair bill by doing the work yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your F-150 and locate the negative battery cable at the battery. Loosen the clamp bolt on the cable end with a wrench then remove the cable from the battery.

2

Raise the front of the truck with a jack and position a set of jack stands under the front suspension to support the truck. Locate the starter on the passengers side of the engine from below the truck. It mounts where the engine and transmission meet.

3

Locate the wiring connections on the rear of the starter and remove them, using a wrench to remove the retaining nuts. Lay the wires aside.

4

Locate the two mounting bolts at the front of the starter. Remove them with a socket and ratchet, and lower the starter away from the engine. Slide the starter out from under the truck.

Your 1999 Ford F-150, a sturdy vehicle with a 5.4-liter engine, can tow a trailer on camping trips or other vacations -- or when you simply want to move the trailer. The F-150 comes equipped with a towing ball, which allows you to attach cable to the trailers towing hitch. Once youve made the connection, drive the speed limit and avoid sharp or sudden turns in your Ford F-150.

Instructions

1

Drive your F-150 to a point in front of the box trailer where you can attach the tow ball and hitch.

2

Place the F-150 in park, and engage your emergency brake.

3

Exit the truck, and walk to the tow ball. Wrap the cable in place around the tow ball, and clamp it shut so it stays in place. Test the connection to ensure it wont come undone easily.

4

Tie the other end of the cable to the tow hitch of the box trailer, taking special care to clamp it in place to stabilize it.

5

Turn on the hazard lights of your box trailer if it has them, which will alert drivers of other vehicles to take caution when driving behind you and your trailer.

The transmission, whether it be automatic or manual, is the heart of the drivetrain system and is responsible for creating a stepped link in power distribution between your engine and wheels. Depending on the options of your 89 Ford F150 at purchase, you could have either one of three automatic transmissions or a manual transmission. Each transmission has their own pros and cons, and were installed in the F150 depending on the overall purpose of the vehicle.

AOD Transmission

The AOD transmission is a four-speed fully automatic transmission that was improved on over the years for efficiency. In the AOD transmission third gear has a split torque path that provides 40 percent of the engines torque through the torque converter and the remaining 60 percent of torque is transferred through the direct input drive shaft. This transmission functions much like other automatic transmission of the era where manual first gear wont shift until manually shifted to second. As you use manual second the transmission will start and remain in second until manually changed by the driver. Third gear will shift from first to second and finally to third, but will not shift into overdrive.

E4OD Transmission

The E4OD transmission was the second fully automatic option for the 89 F150. With the general use of a torque converter in overdrive, torque converter slippage or wasted energy from the engine is about ten percent. The E4OD used a special torque converter, known as a lock-up torque converter, that implements a clutch disc with the torque converter. When deemed appropriate by the PCM, hydraulic pressure is applied to the clutch disc, locking the engine and transmission together; effectively transferring 100 percent of the energy from the engine without waste. With four fully automatic speeds and the lock-up torque converter, the E4OD was the most fuel efficient of the three automatic transmissions.

C6 Transmission

The C6 transmission was produced from 1966 to 1996 and has went through some changes over the years. The torque converter used had a stall speed of 1800 RPM and the transmission was capable of withstanding up to 300 horse-power of the production line. The C6 was also widely upgraded and used in drag racing and off roading. The C6 was a three speed automatic transmission that didnt feature overdrive or a lock-up torque converter; making it the least fuel efficient of the three available automatic transmissions.

Borg-Warner T18 Transmission

The Borg-Warner transmission wasnt widely used on the 88 to 89 F150 and was limited to a certain application. The T18 was a four-speed manual transmission and was only bolted to F150 trucks with a gross vehicle weight under 8500 pounds, with either the 4.9-liter or 5.0-liter engine. The other stipulation is that the transmission was offered with a slip yoke for two-wheel drive applications only. The T-18 transmission will likely have 13-01 stamped into the side of the case; however, if the transmission has been replaced earlier versions were stamped with T18-1E.

The Ford F-150 is a series of pickup trucks with a carrying capacity of one-half ton. The 1994 models use a single, high-pressure fuel pump that is part of a single In-Tank Reservoir (ITR) located within the fuel tank. The ITR also consists of the shuttle selector valve, the supply check valve and the venturi jet pump. You must therefore remove the fuel tank in order to replace the fuel pump in a 1994 Ford F-150.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel or electrical shock. Open the filler cap for the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the valve cap on the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line in the engine compartments upper right corner. Attach pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to the relief valve and open the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap.

2

Drain the fuel in the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel with a hose into a container suitable for gasoline. Disconnect the electrical wiring for the fuel gauge sending unit and detach the fuel lines from the fuel tank. Release the clamp for the filler neck and the filler neck from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and remove the mounting bolts for the retaining strap on the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Remove the retaining straps for the fuel tank and lower the fuel tank to the ground.

3

Disconnect the electrical connector for the ITR and clean the fuel tank around the ITR with a shop towel. Detach the fuel lines from the ITR.

4

Turn the locking ring for the ITR counterclockwise with a hammer and wooden dowel. Remove the locking ring and lift the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Discard the old gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Place a new gasket on the fuel tank and install the new fuel pump into the the fuel tank. Fasten the locking ring by turning it clockwise until the locking ring stops against the retainer ring tab.

6

Complete the fuel pump replacement by performing steps 2 and 3 in reverse. Tighten the nuts for the retaining straps on the fuel tank to 30 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Fill the fuel tank and connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

In 1953, Ford slightly redesigned its F-series pickups and in the process revamped the names of the F-series trucks; the F-1, F-2 and F-3 became the F-100, F-250 and F-350, respectively. The 2006 Ford F-250 had three engines available, but it came standard with a 300-horsepower, 5.4-liter V-8 engine. This engine, as with all modern automotive engines in the U.S., came fitted with a catalytic converter, which converts harmful gases in the exhaust to harmless ones. Replacing the catalytic converter on the base level 2006 F-250 is a straightforward task

Instructions

Removal

1

Allow the vehicle to sit until the engine is cool to the touch, then allow it to sit for an additional hour to allow the catalytic converter to cool, as the converter typically is significantly hotter than the rest of the exhaust and retains heat more effectively.

2

Kick wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and raise the front of the F-250 with a floor jack. Slide jack stands under the frame rails and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

3

Crawl under the middle of the truck until you have a clear view of the catalytic converter.

4

Remove the four catalytic converter-to-Y-pipe nuts, using a ratchet and socket. If the nuts are seized, spray penetrating oil onto them and wait for the amount of time the oils instructions prescribe.

5

Loosen the clamp securing the intermediate pipe to the catalytic converter pipe using a ratchet and socket.

6

Trace the wiring for the catalyst monitor, the oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter, upward until you reach where its harness connects to the F-250s harness. Unplug the sensors harness from the F-250s harness.

7

Press the rubber catalytic converter hanger from the catalytic converters bracket. Press the converter rearward until the converter-to-Y-pipe studs are free from the Y-pipe, and lower the front part of the catalytic converter. Slide the catalytic converters pipe from the intermediate pipe and remove the converter from the truck.

8

Remove the catalyst monitor, the oxygen sensor on the catalytic converter, using a ratchet and oxygen sensor socket.

Installation

9

Apply a thin coating of an anti-seize compound to the catalyst monitors threads and hand-tighten the monitor into the new catalytic converter. Tighten the catalyst monitor to 34 foot-pounds using a torque wrench and oxygen sensor socket.

10

Scrub the mating surface on the Y-pipe with a wire brush. Guide a new catalytic converter-to-Y-pipe gasket onto the mating surface on the catalytic converter. Clean the mating surface on the inside of the intermediate pipe with emery cloth.

11

Lift the catalytic converter into place and press its bracket through the hole in the converters rubber hanger. Guide the convertor-to-Y-pipe studs through the bolt holes in the Y-pipe. Hand-tighten the four converter-to-Y-pipe nuts onto the studs.

12

Guide the rearmost pipe on the catalytic converter into the intermediate pipe. Move the intermediate pipe-to-catalytic converter pipe clamp so its within 0.15 inches of the end of the intermediate pipe and the bolt is at a 90-degree angle relative to the slots cut in the end of the pipe.

13

Tighten the convertor-to-Y-pipe nuts to 30 foot-pounds using a ratchet and socket, and tighten the intermediate pipe-to-catalytic converter pipe clamp to 41 foot-pounds.

Losing the keys to your truck is not the best way to begin your day. Once you complete the search for your F-150 keys, you finally realize it is time to make some phone calls to see about obtaining a new set of car keys. Fortunately, your 1997 Ford F-150 is not equipped with a smart key, so you can call any professional locksmith or Ford dealership to replace your truck key.

Instructions

1

Get the vehicle identification number (VIN) from your truck. It is located on your purchase paperwork, your windshield and on your insurance and title paperwork.

2

Call your local Ford dealership, or a professional locksmith, in your area to schedule an appointment to have new keys made.

3

Provide the key maker with your VIN. The digits of your VIN tell the key maker what type of key you need and how to cut the key to fit your truck locks.

4

Pay for the services rendered, as well as your new keys.

The versatile F-150 pickup truck fulfills the needs of hard-working tradesmen and growing families alike. The scores of options available allow Fords full-size truck to be tailored to almost anyones requirements. The popularity of the truck may be due, at least in part, to this adaptability. Whether your 1992 model is a basic six-banger stick shift or a luxury model trimmed out with all the goodies, the distributor is replaced in the same manner.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery to safeguard against accidental energizing of ignition circuits. Use a wrench to loosen the nut of the battery terminal through-bolt. Spread the terminal open by inserting and twisting a screwdriver in the gap above the through-bolt. Lift the cable terminal off the battery post, and tuck the cable alongside the battery.

2

Release the distributor cap hold-down clips by hand, and position the cap to one side of the distributor. Disconnect the distributor electrical harness connectors from the vehicle harness by hand.

3

Use a physical feature of the distributor body, like a wire harness, to note the position of the distributor in the engine. Use chalk to make a mark on the engine that coincides with the position of the feature. Make another mark in the engine compartment to signify the exact position of the distributor rotors metal tip, or terminal.

4

Use a wrench to remove the distributor hold-down bolt and retaining shoe at the base of the distributor body. Lift the distributor out of the engine bore while monitoring the rotors movement. Use the final position of the rotor as a starting point in the replacement procedure.

Installation

5

Remove the rotor from the old distributor and press it onto the replacement distributor shaft, observing the locator tab placement. Use the first alignment mark to properly position the distributor body over the engine bore. Turn the rotor to the approximate position it rested in after you removed the distributor from the bore.

6

Set the distributor into the bore fully while noting the rotor position. Use the second alignment mark to verify proper rotor arrangement. You may have to raise the distributor body out of the bore partially to adjust rotor position in subsequent attempts to land squarely at the second alignment mark.

7

Install the distributor hold-down bolt through the retaining shoe and tighten the bolt. Replace the cap and secure it by pressing the hold-down clips into place. Restore the electrical connections at the distributor and battery. Start the engine and use the timing light to set the ignition timing to the manufacturers specifications for your engine.

You can check the ABS trouble codes on your 92 Ford F-150 right from your home garage, saving yourself both time and money. The 92 F-150 comes equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics I computer (OBD I) that retrieves and stores all trouble codes sent to it from sensors positioned throughout the truck. When these sensors detect a malfunction in the anti-lock brake system (ABS), they send a code to the computer which, in turn, illuminates the ABS warning light on the instrument panel. You can retrieve these trouble codes using a small, handheld computerized device called an OBD I scan tool. You can buy one at any auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Find the OBD port on the drivers dashboard underneath the steering column. Plug the scan tool into this port.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "II" position. Dont start the engine.

3

Wait for the scan tool to turn on. Some scan tools need to be turned on, so you may have to find the on/off switch.

4

Select the command "Retrieve Codes." Wait while the scan tool interfaces with the OBD computer. Write the codes down on a piece of paper.

5

Look up the codes in the manual that came with the scan tool. Unplug the tool and have the Fords brake system repaired based on the information obtained from the codes.

The Ford F-series is a line of full-size pickup trucks that has been in continuous production since 1948. The F designator indicates that the vehicle has an F-style body, and the 250 designator means that its a 3/4-ton pickup truck. The 1988 Ford F250 pickups have a variety of engines, usually an 8-cylinder 5.8L engine or an 8-cylinder 7.5L engine. All versions of the 1988 F250 use a low-pressure fuel pump mounted to the fuel tank.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench, and loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank. Remove the valve cap for the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line. Connect pressure gauge T80L-9974-A to to the valve, and open the gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Remove the pressure gauge and replace the valve cap.

2

Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a gasoline container with a siphon hose. Disconnect the electrical wiring for the fuel gauge sending unit wire. Detach the fuel line and air relief tube from the fuel tank. Release the clamp for the filler neck on the fuel tank, and disconnect the filler neck. Remove the mounting nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap, and remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

3

Detach the electrical connector from the fuel pump assembly, and clean the surface of the fuel tank around the fuel pump assembly with a shop rag. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel pump assembly. Turn the locking ring on the fuel pump assembly counterclockwise with a wooden dowel and hammer, and remove the locking ring. Pull the fuel pump assembly out of the fuel tank, and discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

4

Install a new gasket into the groove on the fuel tank, and place the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Attach the locking ring to the fuel pump assembly, and turn it clockwise with the hammer and dowel until the locking ring stops against the retainer ring tab.

5

Connect the fuel lines and electrical connection to the fuel pump assembly. Install the fuel tank, and tighten the nuts on the fuel tanks retaining strap to 30 ft.-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal.