Repair 7

Modern vehicles, such as a 1997 Chevrolet, may have an anti-lock braking system (ABS) that prevents the wheels from locking in an emergency stop. The brake controller is also known as an Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). It monitors the rotational speed of each wheel and decreases the braking force to a wheel that is rotating significantly slower than the other wheels. The procedure for installing an EBCM is generally the same for most Chevrolets made between 1997 and 2000.

Instructions

1

Locate the EBCM. Its under the dashboard to the left of the steering column.

2

Squeeze the pressure tabs on the bracket for the EBCM to release it from its bracket.

3

Detach the electrical wiring harness from the EBCM, and remove the EBCM from the vehicle.

4

Plug the electrical wiring harness into the new EBCM. The harness will make an audible click when the connection is secure.

5

Install the new EBCM to its mounting bracket and secure it in place with the pressure tabs on the bracket.

6

Connect a bi-directional scan tool to terminal 9 of the data link connector (DLC). The DLC is in the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Read and correct any diagnostic trouble codes related to the braking system. Disconnect the bi-directional scan tool from the data link connector once youve read and addressed the codes.

The 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe is equipped with either a 4.8-liter V8 engine or a 5.3-liter V8 engine. With each engine option, there are two oxygen sensors in the exhaust system. Install new oxygen sensors in your Tahoe when you notice a significant decrease in fuel mileage or poor idling. Change the sensors at home to save the cost of a service shop. Buy oxygen sensors from an auto parts retailer or Chevrolet dealership.

Instructions

1

Lift your Tahoe with a jack and position the truck on a set of jack stands so you can comfortably work under it.

2

Locate the oxygen sensor protruding from the exhaust pipe just before or just beyond the catalytic converter. Disconnect the electrical connection from the top of the sensor by pulling the connector apart. Remove the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet.

3

Insert the new oxygen sensor by hand to prevent the risk of cross threading. Tighten the sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Torque the sensor to 31 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Press the electrical connection together.

4

Raise the truck slightly, then remove the jack stands. Lower your truck to the ground.

Installing the keypad to your Ford keyless entry system allows you to control the door locks and trunk from a distance by pressing a button. This is helpful in bad weather or if you forget to lock the door. The keyless entry remote also has a panic button that sounds an alarm when pressed. The panic button is helpful if you get hurt or attacked in a parking lot and need help.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it from the "Off" position to the "On" position eight times within 10 seconds. Make sure to end with the key turned to the "On" position. Remember, you have more than a full second to complete each turn, so dont panic and make sure to count the number of times you turn the key. When you have done this correctly, the doors lock and unlock to signify the car has entered the programming mode.

2

Press any button on the remote while the car is in the programming mode. The car stays in programming mode for 20 seconds. The car catches the signal and programs the remote to the system.

The car does not stay in programming mode long, so other people cannot program a remote to your car. Repeat this step within 20 seconds of programming the previous remote to program additional remotes. The doors lock and unlock after each remote has been programmed.

3

Turn the key from the "On" position to the "Off" position. This has the car exit the programming mode. The doors lock and unlock to confirm that it has exited programming mode and no other remotes will be able to be programmed to your car without repeating the entire process.

The Ford Mustang Cobra is a powerful sports car and requires a lot of voltage to operate the engine accessories. The Cobras electrical components are powered by the alternator and once the alternator fails, it needs to be replaced. Installing a new alternator needs to be done in the proper procedure to ensure it operates correctly. The old alternator must be removed first so the new alternator can be installed.

Disconnect the Battery

The battery stores power and is charged by the alternator of the Mustang Cobra. Both the negative ("-") and positive ("+") battery terminals need to be removed from the battery, in that order, so power or voltage is not being sent to the alternator. This needs to be done to ensure the alternator does not shock the mechanic working on the component.

Remove Alternator Power Terminals

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra has power cables or terminals that need to be removed before loosening the attachment bolts. The terminal connections are locked into place with a clip that needs to be pulled up. Once the clip is pulled up, the terminal connection can be pulled apart, disconnecting the alternator power terminal. A nut holds another terminal onto the back of the alternator. The bolt can be removed with a ratchet and socket or a box-end wrench.

Remove Attachment Bolts

The alternator on the Mustang Cobra is held in place by two attachment bolts. Both bolts need to be loosened in order to remove the timing or serpentine belt. The bolt on the bottom of the alternator is the pivot bolt. Once the bolts are loosened, the alternator can be turned slightly on the pivot bolt so the serpentine belt can be removed. The bolts can then be removed from the alternator and the alternator can be removed from the mounting brackets.

Install the New Alternator

The new alternator can be placed back onto the mounting brackets of the Mustang Cobra engine. The attachment bolts can then be installed and tightened down holding the alternator in place. Leave the attachment bolts slightly loose so the alternator can pivot. The serpentine belt can be placed back onto the alternator pulley.

Tighten Serpentine Belt

Since the alternator is still loose, tension on the serpentine belt can be performed. A small crow-bar or pry-bar can be slid between the alternator and the mounting brackets. Pressure can then be placed on the alternator rotating on the pivot bolt and tightening the serpentine belt. Pressure needs to be maintained on the serpentine belt as the attachment bolts are tightened into place. This keeps the tension on the serpentine belt.

Replace Power

The alternator power terminals and battery cables need to be replaced on the Mustang Cobra. Slid the back terminal onto the screw terminal and tighten the nut onto the end. The power terminal connection can be slid back into place, ensuring the locking clip snaps back into place. The positive and negative battery cables need to be put back on the battery terminals and tightened down. Make sure the black cable goes onto the negative side of the battery and the red cable goes onto the positive side of the battery.

While some vehicles use single headlights to account for both low and high beams, the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee employs separate bulbs for each per headlight assembly. As a matter of fact, each drivers and passenger side headlight assembly house a total of five bulbs inside. One low beam headlight, one high beam headlight, two parking lights and a combination marker/directional light. To access and replace any of these lights requires you to remove the headlight assembly.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and locate the jack screw at the top rear center of the headlight assembly that contains the headlight being replaced.

2

Remove the jack screw with the ratchet and a 7mm socket. Extract the long jack screw out of its chamber in the back of the headlight assembly and set it aside.

3

Grab the headlight assembly on the upper inner corner and the lower outer corner and wiggle the assembly free to unseat the headlight alignment guide pins. This will require some force to unseat the alignment pins.

4

Reach behind the assembly (attached to the wire harness connections of each headlight and bulb to access the spent headlight. Low beam headlights are located on the outer end of the assembly and the high beam on the inner end of the assembly.

5

Disconnect the blue clip of the wire harness from the base of the headlight.

6

Twist the headlight base a quarter turn counterclockwise to remove the composite headlight from the assembly.

7

Insert the new low or high beam headlight being careful not to touch the glass bulb into the back of the headlight assembly and align the tabs of the composite headlight to the grooves in the assembly. Press the headlight inward and then twist the base clockwise until it locks into place.

8

Reconnect the blue plug of the wire harness to the base of the headlight.

9

Rest the headlight assembly in its cavity and test the headlight for operation.

10

Align the headlight alignment guide pins with the seats in the headlight assembly cavity and push the assembly into place.

11

Replace the jack screw and tighten it with the ratchet and socket.

The tenth generation of the Chrysler New Yorker includes the 1988 through the 1993 model years, and has little resemblance to the previous generation of the New Yorker. The standard engine for the 1989 Chrysler New Yorker is a six-cylinder, 3.0-liter engine made by Mitsubishi. This engine uses a timing belt to coordinate the movement of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt wears out at regular intervals, and its replacement is a part of routine maintenance.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cover for the front rocker arm with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft damper with the corresponding mark on the engine. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by a full turn if any of the valve springs are still compressed.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and disconnect the outer timing belt covers from the engine. Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to relieve the pressure on the timing belt and remove the timing belt. Move the tensioner away from the engine as far as possible and tighten the bolt on the tensioner.

3

Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with Spanner tool MB990775. Remove the bolt and washer from the sprocket with a socket wrench. Align the groove on the camshaft sprocket with the groove on the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the sprocket to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove Spanner tool MB990775 from the sprocket.

4

Turn both camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the alternator bracket and inner timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump.

5

Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket while maintaining tension on the front side of the timing belt. Place the timing belt over the front camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket and inside the belt tensioner, in that order. Keep tension on the timing belt as you install it, except for the portion on the timing belt adjuster.

6

Turn the front camshaft counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt. Ensure that the timing mark aligns once again, and connect the flange for the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench.

7

Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner, causing the tensioner spring to apply tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise until its timing marks aligns once again. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Install the outer timing belt covers and the rocker arm cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal and test the vehicle for proper operation.

The Toyota Camry is a series of compact and mid-size cars in production since 1982. The 1987 model is a second generation Camry, which typically has a four-cylinder 2.0-liter engine. This engine uses a timing belt to synchronize the rotations of the camshaft and crankshaft. The timing belt on a 1987 Toyota Camry has a limited lifetime and should last at least 60,000 miles before needing replacement.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the covers for the timing belt with a socket wrench and discard their gaskets. Remove the thru-bolt and the mounting insulator on the right side of the engine. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the right engine-mounting bracket and remove the bracket.

2

Remove the timing belt guide and timing belt with a socket wrench. Disconnect the retaining bolts for the No. 1 and No. 2 idler pulleys and remove the pulleys. Detach the timing pulley for the crankshaft, using a pair of pry tools if necessary. Disconnect the retaining nut for the oil pump pulley and remove the oil pump pulley.

3

Slide the oil pump pulley onto its shaft and tighten the retaining nut to 21 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Align the set key on the crankshaft-timing pulley with the corresponding groove on the pulley shaft, and slide the pulley onto the shaft. Tighten the retaining bolt to 80 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

4

Connect the No. 2 idler pulley and tighten its retaining bolt to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the No. 1 idler pulley, loosely fasten its retaining bolt and connect the tension spring. Pull the No. 1 idler pulley as far to the left as it will go and tighten its mounting bolt with a socket wrench to hold it in place temporarily.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up. Place the new timing belt onto the crankshaft-timing pulley, oil pump pulley, No. 2 idler pulley and water pump pulley.

6

Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete turns clockwise until the key groove on the crankshaft-timing pulley faces up once again. Adjust the No. 1 timing pulley as needed to keep it aligned with its timing mark. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley to 31 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

7

Install the bracket for the right engine mount. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. and tighten the thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Connect the insulator for the right engine mount and tighten the insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. Install the timing belt cover with new gaskets and tighten its mounting bolts with a socket wrench.

The Volkswagen Jetta is a compact car manufactured by Volkswagen since 1979. The 1987 model is a second generation Jetta, which includes 1983 through 1992 Volkswagen Jettas. The 1987 Volkswagen Jetta has a four-cylinder, 1.8-liter engine with a single overhead camshaft, which requires a timing belt. The procedure for installing a timing belt is generally the same for all Volkswagen vehicles made from 1985 to 1989.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable on the negative terminal with a socket wrench to avoid starting the engine. Detach the accessory drive belts and the crankshaft pulley. Remove the cover for the front timing belt and replace the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley temporarily.

2

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the rear timing belt cover. Remove the locking nut on the pulley for the timing belt tensioner. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise to reduce the timing belt tension.

3

Install the new timing belt so that the timing mark on the tooth of the timing belt aligns with the mark on the rear cover of the timing belt. Grip the large nut on the crankshaft pulley with an open end wrench and remove the smaller locking nut with a socket wrench.

4

Turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise to place tension on the timing belt. Adjust the tension so that you can twist the timing belt 1/4 turn between the camshaft sprocket and the intermediate sprockets.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by two complete turns until the timing marks align once again. Adjust the tension on the timing belt and align the timing marks again. Tighten the locking nut on the timing belt tensioner to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Install the front cover on the timing belt with a socket wrench and install the accessory drive belts. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and check for a growling noise, indicating the timing belt is too tight.