Repair 7

The Chrysler transmission bump shift describes a condition when Chrysler transmissions shift harshly from one gear to another when downshifting, for example, from fourth to third or third to second gear. It may be simple to fix or require extensive work.

Causes

In some cases, the wrong type of transmission fluid can cause Chrysler transmissions to bump shift. In other cases, it may be a computer malfunction or a problem with the underdrive clutch.

Fluid Replacement

Changing transmission fluid to one of Chryslers recommended types may be enough to solve some bump shift problems. Sometimes, however, the fluid is only a part of the problem and a more complicated fix is required.

Retraining

Sometimes, Chrysler transmissions with bump shift problems need to have the computer retrained to correctly recalibrate the shift points. This requires disconnecting the battery to erase the computers memory and then repeatedly driving the vehicle with steady throttle position as it accelerates through all four gears, then performing kickdowns -- downshifts caused by pushing the accelerator to the floor -- to help the transmission relearn the correct shift points.

Rebuilding

When the bump shifts in a Chrysler transmission are the result of a problem with the underdrive clutch, changing the transmission fluid or retraining the transmission will not alleviate the problem. In this case, rebuilding the transmission is required.

The 1994 Chrysler LHS is a four-door sedan with a 3.5-liter, V6 engine. If you are having trouble with your Chrysler LHS, there are a couple of things that you should check before you take it to a repair shop. Common problems such as a dead battery, empty fuel tank and a low fuel system can be fixed without invasive repair to the vehicle. You dont have to be a Chrysler technician to get your LHS back on the road; you can do it yourself.

Instructions

1

Open the driver side door to gain access to the ignition. Put your key into the ignition and turn it halfway to engage the instrument panel. Look over the gauges on the instrument panel to make sure that you have enough gas in the fuel tank. Fill the fuel tank as needed. If the instrument panel will not light up, check the battery.

2

Open the hood from the hood latch under the steering wheel of the car. Raise the hood and engage the hood rod to keep the hood up. Check the connections to the battery. The battery housing is on the right side of the engine block. Tighten the connection nuts with a pair of pliers. Try to restart the car.

3

Test the battery if the car still wont start. Place the testing leads of a voltmeter to the battery terminals. If you get a reading of less than 11 volts, connect a battery charger to the battery. Connect the red and black leads from the battery charger to the red and black terminals on the battery. Plug the battery charger into an electrical outlet. Leave the charger on for 12 hours. If the car wont start after 12 hours, replace the battery.

4

Check the cooling system on the left side of the engine if the LHS is overheating. Unscrew the coolant tank cap by turning it counterclockwise. Fill the coolant tank with 50/50 coolant until it reaches the fill line on the left side of the tank.

5

Jack up the front end of the car and crawl under the car. Locate a small, black box on the right side of the engine block. This is the starter. Have a friend try to start the car and then listen to the starter. If you hear a "buzzing" noise from the starter, have a certified technician replace the unit.

The computer in a car generates an error code and turns on the "Check Engine Light" when it runs a diagnostic of one of the electrical circuits in the car and finds something that is out of bounds. Error code 441 refers to the part of the cars emissions system that deals with fumes in the gas tank. It has to be dealt with before the error code can be cleared.

Error 441

All fuel tanks allow the fuel inside to evaporate slightly. Before emissions controls, the car simply dumped the fumes into the outside air, increasing pollution. Cars with emission control systems send these fumes to a canister filled with charcoal to be stored. At intervals, the emissions system opens a valve in the canister and purges the fumes by drawing them through a hose to the engine. The computer chip checks the process by pumping air out of the system to see if the canister responds. If it doesnt, it reports error 441, which means that something has interfered with this process and the canister hasnt been purged.

Possible Causes of Error 441

The error could come about because of a faulty canister or switch, a broken or damaged hose, a failure in the computer chip that controls the purge or a break in the electrical circuit controlling the process.

Cures for Error 441

Depending on the cause of error 441, the cure could be replacing the pump that tests the system, replacing the canister or hoses, repairing or replacing a component in the electrical circuit, replacing or reprogramming the cars computer chip or replacing the vacuum switch controlling the flow of fumes from the canister to the engine.

The Chrysler Sebring is a series of mid-size cars in production since 1995. The 2001 model was the first of the second generation Sebrings, which was produced until 2005. The 2001 Chrysler Sebring has a mechanical water pump, like other modern vehicles. The engine drives the water pump with a belt, which circulates a mixture of water and antifreeze around the engine. The water pump in a 2001 Chrysler Sebring is attached to the front of the engine block.

Instructions

1

Allow the vehicle to sit overnight to ensure the coolant is not hot. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal, so you dont accidentally start the engine.

2

Place a sealable container under the radiator and remove the drain plug for the radiator. Allow the entire contents of the radiator to drain into the container. Replace the drain plug and seal the container of coolant.

3

Use the socket wrench to remove the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.

4

Use the socket wrench to disconnect the brace for the alternator. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump and disconnect the water pump. Discard the O-ring for the water pump.

5

Clean the O-ring mating surfaces on the water pump and the engine block with a shop towel to remove any remaining material from the O-ring. Place the new O-ring into position on the new water pump and install the water pump to the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts for the water pump to 117 in. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the brace for the alternator and tighten its mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. Install the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.

6

Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Refill the cooling system and start the engine. Check for leaks in the cooling system and repair as necessary.

Chrysler Motors manufactured many engines independently and also collaborated with other motor companies to manufacture engines. One of the engines manufactured in collaboration was the 2.0 DOHC engine created during the 1980s. The 1988 Dodge Colt Vista Wagon featured the 2.0 G63B engine.

Camshaft Torque Specifications

The 2.0 DOHCs had two outer cap bolts connecting the camshaft to the cylinder head with 18 foot-pounds of torque and three inner cap bolts with 8.75 foot-pounds of torque. The bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the camshaft had 2.5 foot-pounds of torque, while the bolt connecting the camshaft position sensor to the cylinder head had 7.08 foot-pounds of torque.

Exhaust and Intake Torque Specifications

The bolts connecting the fuel rail to the intake manifold had 16.25 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the intake manifold to the cylinder head had 212 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the throttle body to the intake manifold had 16.67 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head had 16 foot-pounds of torque, and the bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe had 20 foot-pounds of torque. The bolts connecting the heat shield to the exhaust manifold had 8.75 foot-pounds of torque.

Engine Specifications

The 2.0 DOHC V4 engine had a peak horsepower of 96 and a peak torque of 113 foot-pounds. The engine had a bore and stroke of 3.35 and 3.46 inches, respectively, and a compression ratio of 8.5 to 1. The engine had a displacement of 122 cubic inches, or 2.0 liters.

Owners of the Chrysler 2002 Town and Country may experience various problems with the power lift gate. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration opened an investigation in 2004 due to multiple consumer complaints regarding power 2001-2003 model lift gates opening while the vehicles were in motion. A recall was issued in 2005, but only for 2003 models, leaving 2002 Town and Country owners responsible for the financial burden of lift gate repairs.

Failure to Open

Owners of the 2002 Town and Country have complained to the NHTSA that the lift gate sometimes wont open with the power button, remote control or manually. One consumer states that the problem has been present in the vehicle since the date it was purchased from the dealer. No recall has been issued to resolve this problem.

Difficulty Latching

Drivers of 2002 Chrysler Town and Country vehicles have reported to NHTSA various difficulties in getting the lift gates to latch when using the keypad. The latch may open part way and remain like that. RepairPal states that updating the module software may fix the keypad problem.

Opens Arbitrarily

Consumer complaints to NHTSA indicate that some lift gates on 2002 Chrysler Town and Country vehicles open randomly while the vehicle is in motion or while the vehicle is shifting into drive. Consumers have been told by authorized dealers that the cause of the problem is unknown.

Replacing the alternator on your 2000 Chrysler Sebring is a good project to undertake at home, and it will save you from steep labor charges from the dealership or the repair shop. If the battery is not charging and the car does not stay running without the battery cables attached to the battery, the alternator is more than likely not putting out the voltage required for the proper operation of the ignition system. Removing the alternator from your car allows for bench testing, to verify that the unit is truly faulty.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the car and locate the negative battery cable (it bolts to the inner fender well, on the drivers side of the engine compartment). Remove the bolt with a socket and ratchet, then remove the cable and set it aside, isolating it from any metal surface so that it cannot ground and complete the electrical circuit.

2

Locate the field circuit connector on the rear of the alternator. Depress the locking clip and pull the wire and connector from the alternator. Lay the wire and connector aside.

3

Remove the nut from the "B" terminal on the rear of the alternator with a wrench, then remove the cable from the terminal. Lay the cable aside.

4

Locate the mounting bolt at the top of the alternator and loosen it with a socket and ratchet. Loosen the pivot bolt, then remove the drive belt from the alternator pulley. Set the spacers from the pivot bolt aside for later reuse.

5

Remove the top mounting bolt from the alternator, then raise the alternator out of the engine compartment. Position the new alternator in the engine compartment and insert the upper mounting bolt to hold it in place. Slide the drive belt over the pulley, then insert the pivot bolt, being sure to put the spacers back in the proper order.

6

Pull the bottom of the alternator toward the drivers side of the car until the belt is tight, then tighten the pivot bolt with a socket and ratchet. Tighten the upper mounting bolt with a socket and ratchet once the pivot bolt is secure.

7

Install the large cable on the "B" terminal at the rear of the alternator, followed by the retaining nut; tighten the nut with a wrench, then plug the field circuit connector into the rear of the alternator. Push it in until the locking tab engages.

8

Reinstall the negative battery cable on the drivers side fender well and secure the bolt with a wrench.

The Chrysler Sebring is a mid-size sedan that Chrysler has produced since 1995. The 1998 model is a first-generation Sebring that was in production until 2000. The most common engine in a 1998 Chrysler Sebring is a 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter with a multi-port fuel injection. The water pump for these engines is located on the front of the engine block, under the cover for the timing chain. The procedure for installing the water pump requires you to drain the cooling system.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench. Turn the engine crankshaft clockwise so that the first cylinder is at top dead center. This position will align the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets.

2

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the inner splash shield from the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the accessory drive belts.

3

Place a drain pan under the drain plug of the radiator and remove the drain plug. Allow the coolant to drain into the drain pan. Replace the drain plug and store the coolant for later use.

4

Support the engine with a floor jack and disconnect the right mount for the engine with a socket wrench. Remove the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and camshaft sprockets.

5

Disconnect the attaching bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench and remove the water pump. Discard the O-ring. Clean the mounting surface for the O-ring with a shop rag.

6

Install the new O-ring onto the new water pump and ensure it is properly seated into its groove. Install the water pump and tighten its mounting bolts to 105 pound-inch with a torque wrench. Turn the water pump by hand to ensure that it rotates freely.

7

Connect the camshaft sprockets, timing belt tensioner and timing belt with a socket wrench. Replace the timing belt cover and install the bracket for the right engine mount. Lower the floor jack and connect the right splash shield for the engine.

8

Lower the vehicle with the jack. Install the accessory drive belt and adjust it to the proper tension. Fill the coolant to the proper level and connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.

The Chrysler Town & Country is a family minivan manufactured by Chrysler since 1990. It has a 6-cylinder engine with multi-port fuel injection that requires the fuel to be pressurized to about 49 pounds per square inch. The fuel pump module in the 1998 Chrysler Town & Country consists of a fuel pump and pressure regulator located in the fuel tank. You must remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump in this vehicle.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable on the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench to prevent sparking while you work on the vehicle. Loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail. Place one end of hose No. C-4799-1 into a gasoline container, and wrap a shop towel around the fuel pressure port. Attach the other end of the hose to the fuel pressure port to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure port and replace the cap.

2

Place a siphon hose into the fuel tank and drain the fuel tank into a gasoline container. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank and fuel pump module. Slide the electrical connector for the fuel pump module to the unlock position. Push the retainer down and detach the electrical connector from the fuel pump module. Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack and remove the bolts for the mounting straps on the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank slightly so you can disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank completely and remove it from the vehicle.

3

Clean the top of the fuel tank with a shop towel to prevent dirt from getting into the fuel tank. Turn the lock nut for the fuel pump module counterclockwise with tool No. 6856 and detach the lock nut from the fuel pump module.

4

Lift the fuel pump module out of the fuel tank. Remove and discard the O-ring from the fuel tank. Clean the area around the opening in the fuel tank, and install a new O-ring on the fuel tank.

5

Install the locking ring for the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise and tighten it to 43 ft-lbs. with tool No. 6856. Install the fuel tank and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal. Fill the fuel tank with fuel and fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank. Turn the ignition on to pressurize the system and check the fuel system for leaks.

The tenth generation of the Chrysler New Yorker includes the 1988 through the 1993 model years, and has little resemblance to the previous generation of the New Yorker. The standard engine for the 1989 Chrysler New Yorker is a six-cylinder, 3.0-liter engine made by Mitsubishi. This engine uses a timing belt to coordinate the movement of the crankshaft and camshaft. The timing belt wears out at regular intervals, and its replacement is a part of routine maintenance.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cover for the front rocker arm with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft damper with the corresponding mark on the engine. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by a full turn if any of the valve springs are still compressed.

2

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench and disconnect the outer timing belt covers from the engine. Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to relieve the pressure on the timing belt and remove the timing belt. Move the tensioner away from the engine as far as possible and tighten the bolt on the tensioner.

3

Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with Spanner tool MB990775. Remove the bolt and washer from the sprocket with a socket wrench. Align the groove on the camshaft sprocket with the groove on the camshaft. Tighten the bolt on the sprocket to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove Spanner tool MB990775 from the sprocket.

4

Turn both camshafts clockwise to align their timing marks with the timing marks on the alternator bracket and inner timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align its timing mark with the timing mark on the oil pump.

5

Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket while maintaining tension on the front side of the timing belt. Place the timing belt over the front camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, rear camshaft sprocket and inside the belt tensioner, in that order. Keep tension on the timing belt as you install it, except for the portion on the timing belt adjuster.

6

Turn the front camshaft counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt. Ensure that the timing mark aligns once again, and connect the flange for the crankshaft sprocket with a socket wrench.

7

Loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner, causing the tensioner spring to apply tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft two complete turns clockwise until its timing marks aligns once again. Tighten the bolt on the timing belt tensioner to 19 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

8

Install the outer timing belt covers and the rocker arm cover with a socket wrench. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal and test the vehicle for proper operation.

Youll know when you develop a crack or a hole in your Chrysler Sebrings resonator. The exhaust note, i.e., the sound your exhaust makes when driving, will drastically change for the worse. That throaty sound youre used to will become distorted and sound like its rattling. Replacing a resonator can cost several hundred dollars that you just might not have to invest right away. If you need a few weeks but you dont want your car to sound like it has a "problem," then patch your resonator with a dab of putty.

Instructions

1

Jack the rear end of the Chrysler Sebring off of the ground with the scissor jack located under the spare tire in the trunk. Jack one side of the car up and place a jack stand under the rear axle. Jack the other side of the cars rear off the ground and place a jack stand under that side. This will allow you to safely raise the rear of the car off of the ground so you can access the cracked resonator.

2

Sand the area around the crack in the resonator. Remove all rust and dirt from the affected area. The surface should be slightly shiny, and you should be able to see bare metal around the crack. The more rust you are able to remove, the less chance you will have of the resonator cracking or rusting through again.

3

Wipe any dirt, grease and sanding dust off of the resonator with naphtha using a clean disposable shop towel. Naphtha is a grease remover and will not leave any residue on the metal that could prevent the high temperature metal repair compound from adhering to the resonators surface.

4

Knead the high temperature metal repair compound in your hand until it softens into a putty. Place the putty into the crack in the resonator. The putty should overlap the metal by 2 to 3 inches in all directions. Push the putty firmly against the metal to ensure a proper seal. According to Permatex.com, their repair compound should be allowed to dry overnight (12 to 18 hours).