Repair 7

The rear seal for your cub crank is found right behind the main bearing journal on your vehicles crankshaft. This seal is used to keep the oil inside the crankshaft and the oil pan. If you have noticed oil leaking from the back of your vehicles crankshaft, you probably need to replace this seal. Having a mechanic replace this seal could easily cost $200 to $300. However, if you do it yourself, you can replace the seal for about $50.

Instructions

1

Remove the oil filter by unscrewing it. Remove the oil nut with a nut driver and allow the oil to drain into a drain pan. Use the nut driver to remove the radiator fluid nut from the engine. Allow the radiator fluid to drain into another drain pan.

2

Use a wrench to remove the motor mounts from your engine. Disconnect the radiator hoses, the fan and the fan shroud from your engine. Use a wrench to unbolt the engine from the vehicles transmission if needed.

3

Use a jack to raise the engine off of the engine mounts. Use a wrench to remove the oil pan from the engine. Pull the oil pan from the engine and use a nut driver to remove the bolts from the oil pan.

4

Pry the bearing cap off of the oil pan with a putty knife. Make sure that you do not scratch the crankshaft. Use a brass punch to remove the upper part of the seal. Tap the brass punch with a hammer until the seal comes off of the oil pan.

5

Install your new seal to the oil pan. Rotate the crankcase shaft while holding the seal on the oil pan. Use a sealer to make sure that your new seal will retain the oil. Reinstall the oil pan on the engine. Use your nut drivers to secure the oil pan bolts on the engine.

6

Lower the engine and remove the jack. Reinstall the transmission to the engine. Reinstall the fan shroud, the fan and the radiator hoses on your engine. Replace the motor mounts to secure the motor in place. Refill the engine oil and the radiator coolant.

Sportsters come equipped with rear directional signals installed to the rearmost hole of the rear fender trim. The disconnectible turn signals leads branch off the rear wiring harness inside the rear fender. Sportster turn signals are usually relocated or reinstalled to accommodate saddlebag mounts. Sometimes the turn signals are changed for purely aesthetic reasons. Signals can be shaped like Maltese Crosses, skulls, spades and other outlaw icons. In some jurisdictions it is legal to run only "whisker" turn signals which are integral to the license plate frame. The wiring is approximately the same for all these installations. The Harley rear turn signal relocation kit installs with moderate ease.

Instructions

1

Raise the Sportster on a motorcycle jack high enough for the rear wheel to hang down. Set a flashlight or shop light under the rear fender so you can see what youre doing.

2

Unbolt the seat mounting bolt just behind the seat with an Allen wrench. Pull the seat up, back and off.

3

Loosen and remove the black battery cable from the negative battery post with an open end wrench.

4

Pry the small plug from the tail light access hole on the rear fender interior with a small screwdriver.

5

Pull the turn signal wiring harness inside the rear fender from the tail light housing. Unhook the signal wiring from the clips inside the rear fender.

6

Pull the two turn signal connections apart into male and female halves. Mark the socket halves with tape for future erence. Pull the turn signal wires from the two turn signal connections.

7

Loosen the screws on the rear of the fender trim on both sides of the Sportster with an Allen wrench. Remove the turn signals and the old mounting brackets from both sides of the bike.

8

Cut a piece of the shrink wrap tubing included with the turn signal relocation kit in half with a pair of shears. Slide the tubing over the exposed turn signal wires up to the signals for both sides of the Sportster. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun.

9

Push the turn signal lamps and wires on both sides of the fender completely through the small holes on both ends of the new taillight mounting bracket. Push the wires through the open holes in the rear fender trim.

10

Install the new turn signal brackets into the open holes on both sides of the fender by hand. Tighten the fender trim screws by hand.

11

Ensure the wires from both turns signals are inside the rear fender. Tighten the fender trim screws with an Allen wrench.

12

Connect the turn signal wires to the signal connections inside both sides of the fender. Arrange the turn signals so they face back and tighten the hex nut and washer on both signals with an open end wrench.

13

Connect the turn signal wires to the female half of both turn signal connectors on both sides of the fender by hand. Plug the female and male halves of the turn signal connectors back together by hand.

14

Push the loose wires and the gray tail lamp connector back into the tail lamp housing inside the fender. Replace the plug into the tail light access hole in the rear fender.

15

Route the turn signal wires along the inside edges of the fender and secure with cable ties.

The 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee has two license plate bulbs in the rear. Theyre located on the hatch shelf directly above the license plate. The front license plate doesnt require illumination, so it has no bulbs. Rear license-plate illumination, on the other hand, is mandated by law in the United States. Lighting in the rear can be overlooked since its impossible for a driver to see the back of the vehicle when driving. The license plate bulbs come on when the headlight switch is turned on.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the headlight switch is off. If necessary, turn on the headlight switch to determine which license plate bulb is out (unless youre replacing both). Turn the switch back off after checking.

2

Raise your 1997 Grand Cherokees rear hatch.

3

Remove the retaining screw on the lens cover of the faulty license plate bulb, using the screwdriver. Each lens only has one screw; its on the inside edge of the lens.

4

Pull the lens downward from where the retaining screw was removed. There is a small tab on the other side of the lens that acts as a hinge and holds the other side of the lens in place.

5

Pull the spent bulb straight out of the socket. Push the replacement bulb into the socket and test the light before replacing the lens assembly. Ensure that the tab on the lens is seated inside the bulbs cavity when reassembling it.

Routine Fluid Checks and Preventative Maintenance

The differential allows the drive wheels in your 2WD or 4WD car, truck or SUV to turn at different speeds. Proper lubrication of the gears is imperative for the safe and optimum performance of your vehicle. Checking the rear differential fluid every 15,000 miles for a "gummy" consistency will prevent costly repairs and can even extend the life of your drive-wheel tires.

Todays Vehicles Are Designed for Low Maintenance

Todays automobiles last longer. Technology has given them more sophisticated engineering, cleaner-burning fluids and low-maintenance designs. Frequently checking the differential fluid is unnecessary because of these advances. Checking the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits is more than adequate--with a complete fluid change at 90,000 miles.

Bottom Line

While preventative maintenance is the key to the life of your vehicle, you can avoid spending unnecessary time by simply checking the fluid during each oil change. If you have an older vehicle that is used for towing heavy loads long distances, checking the fluid every 15,000 miles or so is recommended. If you are driving a newer vehicle--one that is five years old or less--a check of the fluid during 30,000- and 60,000-mile maintenance visits will suffice.

Since the introduction of the Onboard Diagnostics II (OBD II) system in 1995, two oxygen sensors -- front and rear -- monitor engine performance and emissions in all American-sold vehicles. These small, but vitally important components communicate with the engine control unit to maximize performance and minimize emissions, and should be replaced or fixed immediately if found to be malfunctioning.

Front Oxygen Sensor Function

The front -- or upstream -- oxygen sensor, so named for its position in front or upstream of the catalytic converter in the exhaust manifold, measures the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust that exits the engines combustion chamber by producing and reporting a voltage level to the ECM. This indicates the air to fuel ratio that the engine is receiving and whether or not the ECM needs to alter that mixture in order to reach the proper 14.7:1 ratio.

Rear Oxygen Sensor Function

The rear oxygen sensor is located downstream of the catalytic converter, and has a more basic function: it monitors the effectiveness of the catalytic converter. Tasked with removing many of the harmful toxins from engine exhaust, the catalytic converter is an important part of the exhaust process. The ECU compares data compiled from the rear oxygen sensor with that of the front oxygen sensor to ensure that the catalytic converter is doing its job. A non-functioning rear oxygen sensor wont affect performance, but it will likely trip a dashboard indicator.

Design

Although they have different purposes, front and rear oxygen sensors employ the same basic design to measure oxygen levels. Resembling spark plugs, these small devices produce a voltage between 0.2 and 0.9 volts, based on the amount of oxygen flowing past their bulb, and relay that information to the ECU. Most modern day oxygen sensors are electrically heated on start-up until they can maintain their own 600-degree operating temperature.

You can adjust the rear brakes on your 2001 GMC Safari right in your home garage. This adjustment should be done periodically to lengthen the life of your rear brakes, to improve brake function, and to restore the function of the parking brake. This adjustment can be done in less than an hour and requires only a few basic tools that can be purchased from your local auto parts retailer. The adjustment procedure basically reduces the gap between the shoes and the drums, resulting in a higher brake pedal height and faster braking times.

Instructions

1

Put on work gloves and safety goggles.

2

Position two wheel chocks in front of each front wheel and two wheel chocks behind each front wheel to keep the car from moving while you work on it.

3

Put the floor jack under the rear differential and raise up the Safari until its higher than the jack stands. Slide the jack stands under the vehicles axle tubes next to each of the rear wheels. Lower your 2001 GMC Safari onto the jack stands.

4

Look for a rubber plug in the backing plate behind the wheel. Remove the plug.

5

Insert a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the star-shaped adjuster upward at the same time spin the rear wheel in a forward motion. Keep spinning the wheel and rotating the adjuster until you feel a slight drag on the wheel. Remove the screwdriver and reinsert the plug. Repeat this procedure for the other rear wheel.

6

Raise the vehicle up off the jack stands and move them out of the way. Lower the vehicle to the ground and remove the wheel chocks. Take the GMC for a test drive to make sure the brake pedal height is higher and that the parking brake is tighter, clicking a maximum of six notches when you engage it.

Being the last Pontiac production car, Vibe offers a sporty design and the car is functional, spacious and efficient. If you are lucky enough to get one, it may have needed an alignment. The following specs are cited by the manufacturer for alignment.

Camber

Camber is the measurement in degrees from the true vertical. The Vibe camber angle should be the same on both left and right sides. The angle must be -0.57 with the measuring accuracy of 0.75 degrees on the front wheels and -1.45 with the measuring accuracy of 0.50 on the rear wheels.

Caster

Caster measurement is essentially the reading of camber while turning. Caster angles must be 2.78 degrees with the measuring accuracy of 0.75 degrees.

Total Toe

Total toe angles on the front wheels must be zero degrees with measuring range of 0.20 degrees and 0.26 degrees with the measuring range of 0.26 degrees on the rear wheels.

Ford rear ends, or differentials, were manufactured by either the Dana Corporation or Ford. Differentials take the power from the rear axle and transfer it to the rear wheels by way of special gears. Identifying a differential hinges the ability to distinguish the two primary rear-end types---the 8- or 9-inch rear end---denoting ring-gear size. The differential installed depends on the intended application; standard passenger or high-performance trucks tend to have a wider range of rear-end variety than passenger cars. The identification process begins with locating the factory rear-end tag and then using visual methods.

Instructions

1

Locate the axle ID tag on the rear-end housing---usually a sheet-metal tag bolted to the housing, although some vehicles had a paper tag, which may be missing. The metal tag has four different sets of numbers, each grouped in the four corners of the tag. The most important is the model, or service code, found in the upper-left corner. Combine all of the codes, to identify ring-gear size, gear ratio, date and location of manufacture.

2

Decode the service number by matching it to an axle service code chart, similar to those found on WoodyG.com and Drivetrain. The code chart tells the gear ratio and ring-gear size, denoting an 8- or 9-inch rear end.

3

Locate the VIN tag on the rear face of the driver-side door---the primary identification tag for the vehicle. On it, look fora box labeled "axle," containing the axle code, which requires consulting a code listing similar to that found on Drivetrain. Verify both the axle tag and door-tag codes to determine whether the vehicle still has its original rear end.

4

Count the bolts on the rear-end housing, and visually identify the rear-end gasket shape; compare the gasket shape with the chart found on the Drivetrain site (see References section). Ford 7.5s and 8.8s have 10 bolts, the 10.25 has 12 and all Dana units have 10 bolts, but each has a different gasket shape. The chart also provides width dimensions for measurement verification.

5

Attach a deep socket with an extension to the lower rear-end bolts. According to Ridgecrest, if the socket goes straight on without hitting the case, your vehicle has an 8-inch rear end; if the socket doesnt fit the bolt on the other side of the center, your vehicle has a 9-inch rear end.

Most cars come with a front sway bar, which is located underneath the vehicle and helps improve handling, particularly during tight corners. If you want to further improve handling, one option is to install a rear sway bar. You should be able to do the job in a couple of hours. After youre finished, you will be able to take tighter corners at higher speeds, and handling will be noticeably improved. The process is similar for most vehicles, although for higher-end vehicles you may want to let a mechanic install the sway bar.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear end of the vehicle with a jack. Lower the rear end onto jack stands for support so that the vehicle doesnt fall on you when youre installing the sway bar.

2

Use the bushing grease found in your sway bar kit to coat the bushings. Slide the bushings onto the sway bar and move them onto the straight section near the middle.

3

Slide the brackets onto the torsion beam that is hooked up to the rear suspension. Use the tape measure to make sure that the brackets are evenly spaced.

4

Use the 3/8-inch ratchet and an open-end wrench to bolt clamps over the bushings.

5

Place the jack under the torsion beam by the shock mount for support. Use your 3/8-inch ratchet and socket to unbolt the shock mount.

6

Connect the end links by moving the heim joints all the way into the threaded assembly. There should be a locknut in the middle. Your threads should be approximately halfway out of the collar -- measure to be sure.

7

Use the longer bolts from your rear sway bar kit to connect the heim joint to the shock hole. Bolt the other end to the rear sway bar.

8

Connect the portion of the link that isnt threaded to the shock mount bolt.

9

Repeat Steps 6 through 8 on the other side of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle above the jack stands. Remove the stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

The rear shocks on a Nissan Frontier XE are important for the riding conditions of the vehicle as well as its towing capabilities. Shocks are typically replaced every 60,000 miles or when the ride becomes soggy or bouncy. If the shocks show grease or oil rubs on the exterior of the control tube, its probably time to replace them with some new ones.

Instructions

1

Block the front wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling when lifted. Use the ratchet wrench and lug socket to break loose the lugs on both rear wheels. Raise the vehicle up using the hydraulic lift. Place the jack stands under structure points, then lower the lift until the weight of the vehicle is distributed equally among the jack stands and hydraulic lift.

2

Remove the lugs and place them into the wheel to ensure they arent misplaced. Push the wheels under the vehicle for extra security. Locate the the upper and lower shock bolts and spray them liberally with WD-40 to loosen the nuts.

3

Use the 1/2 in. ratchet and the correct sized deep socket to break loose the top shock arm nut. Remove the bottom shock arm nut entirely. Return to the top nut and attempt to remove the nut using just the ratchet. Use the vise grips to secure the shock if the nut spins endlessly. Pull the entire shock down and remove from the arm mounts. Installation is reverse of removal.